DIY steering rack repair Toyota

Golf Steering Wheel Repair 3 Practical Video

On our not-so-new Volkswagen Golf, the steering rack was completely useless. The problem has been visible for a long time and now is the time to fix it. We carry out the chimney log with our own hands, almost at home. Now directly on the steering gear. at the bottom, almost above the pedals, we separate the steering shaft mounts in order to unscrew them, sometimes it is necessary to remove the boot in the inner part.

The next step should be to remove the fluid, for this you need to remove the roof from the hydraulic fluid reservoir. From below under the car, we disconnect the hose leading to the power steering pump, and we drain the fluid from the system. We raise the car jack and place it on the pillows so you can remove the wheels. After removing the wheels, unscrew the nuts of the guide tips, the key to the tips is removed either using a special puller, or with hammer blows on the steering knuckle,

You must be careful not to damage the thread and anthers on the guides. You can now unscrew the fender attachment to the steering rack by holding the three bolts. The front can be unscrewed from below with a wrench or propeller shaft from above and the other two at the back. Raise the subframe slightly with the connector and remove the steering column mounting bolts. Do not try to remove the bolts from the subframe. You can now detach the passenger side bracket that secures the steering rack.

The top boot must be removed. steering rackso as not to break it when we lower the stretcher. Then loosen the subframe bolts at the front and rear. Make sure all items attached to the rail are disconnected. Now, finally, unscrew the previously loosened bolts, you need to remember them how. Lower the subframe slightly, about 5 centimeters, to remove the rail.

This step should be done with extreme caution. Unscrew the bolt and pull the gimbal out of the tie rod, it is now easy to remove the rail. The last operation of dismantling the rail. take it off subframe bolts, from the driver's side remove from the rear beam. Replace the unsuccessful old steering rack with a new one. You can use zip ties to secure the air tube between the anthers. After installing the new rail, immediately install the gimbal, we put on the groove and tighten the bolt.

Raising the steering rack a little, connect the propeller shaft of the mount and the steering shaft in the cab, we put on the boot. We connect the inlet hoses and hydraulics on site. Now, from the salon, we guide the rail to the fastening bolts on the stretcher, we fix it with a pre-installed rubber band under it.

I have not yet risen, but in the tyrante they write everywhere that you need to shoot.

I want to raise a long-standing topic, which may not be as relevant for 150 Corolla as for 120, because according to my own observations on Corolla 150 it is the rake that does not bother so much. Mainly the steering column, both flaps. nevertheless, I want to share, because the topic of steering racks, including their repair and lubrication, is relevant: officially, the rack is not repaired or serviced, but is quite expensive. In addition, there are no separate steering rods on sale, if we talk about the "original" ones.

The advice was shared by a person working in a taxi company in Vladivostok, which acquired many of our Corollas at one time, in fact, he operated them with decent mileage.
This was not the only useful practical advice I read about.The author presented to the court a photo report on the implementation of this generally simple technique. I have just brought it up a bit to make it easy to read and download.

I will make a reservation right away that the experts in the usefulness of the "oil can" disagreed. I can voice some arguments, some not Copenhagen.
In general, I invite you to discuss.

I will immediately add three points, I read the opinions:
1. The grease used in the report, TOTALLY unsuitable for Toyota steering racks
2. Too much of it was injected.
3. Tie-in made, slightly in the wrong place.

With the first I completely agree, the other two I am not ready to either confirm or dispute.

I can add from my experience in repair / lubrication of the rack on my previous car - KIA C'eed. Here are the generalized methods that I used taken from the KIA C'eed forum:

So everything that is described here takes place on most modern cars, both classmates and an auto class higher than Toyta. Before drilling the rail itself, first check the steering gear crosses that are in the cabin (if I am not mistaken, there are 2 of them), as well as the telescopic tube (it is responsible for adjusting the steering wheel for departure), in most cases it knocks there. It is also not uncommon for the plant to install crosses with increased backlash, which begin to knock after a few hundred kilometers, it also happens that the bolts fixing the crosses turn away or weaken (not all manufacturers counter them, oddly enough). The racks themselves usually begin to knock when the mileage is over 100-120 thousand km (I will make a reservation for everyone in different ways), this knock usually manifests itself when driving through pits and combs and has a dull but loud sound, while on the steering wheel it is usually not reflected in any way, that is, no knocks are felt on the steering wheel.

About lubrication. The lubricant AZMOL FIOL-1 was used, as recommended for this type of work. FIOL-1 is an NLGI 1 grade grease, i.e. has a lower viscosity at low temperatures compared to universal greases of the Litol group (NLGI 2), which undoubtedly has a positive effect on further operation. Otherwise, these greases are identical.
About the volume. 150 grams of grease on each side is quite enough (two oilers were placed). It is not necessary to hammer the entire rail to the eyeballs, the air flow inside must be maintained.

As a result, I concluded that greasing the rack does not help for long, I drove about 20 thousand after lubrication, then I simply changed the rack.
1.replacing the rail
2.Steering rack grease (Fiol-1)
4.screwing the bolt into the EUR to increase the force on the output shaft (dumb, tight steering wheel)

Undoubtedly. Separate one from the other. It's easy to do it on the pit :)
As for the Corolla 150, most of the knocks come from there, and not from the reiki itself. The rail itself knocks on the RAV-4, and on Outlenlers, and on Highlanders, and right from the salon.
On Corollas, if the rake knocks, it also knocks right away. Or a little later. As far as I read, the replacement under warranty did not give anything, in general, the author also writes about this.
On the indicated runs, knocking is already wear and tear during operation. It certainly cannot be cured by anything other than the manufacture of fluoroplastic bushings (I think this topic is familiar to you).
Knocks in the steering column take place due to unscrewing and on the Corolla, as correctly noted, it is very simple to fix it, pulling up without any disassembly.
The intermediate shaft crosses, responsible for adjusting the overhang), cannot be treated in any way, this is for sure 🙂
There is another crash-safe folding countershaft under the hood, the same story. Two cardan shafts, and a knock at the splined joint of the folding shaft.
Also, discard the knock from the steering tips (which, in general, does not happen with the Corolla right away at low mileage), and most importantly from the bushings and anti-roll bar struts, the knocks from which are very often confused with the rail itself.

Symptoms: knocks in the steering rack, manifested when driving through small irregularities (disease of all korollopodobnye with electric power steering).
Diagnosis of servicemen - replacing the rail (in practice, it does not help out for long and costs a lot).
Solution: replacing anything in the rail that can knock. And there are only two places knocking in such rails - the adjusting unit and in the area of ​​the bushing located at the opposite end of the rail (in the case of right-hand drive cars - the left side of the rail). And since nothing needs to be changed in the adjusting unit, all repairs are reduced to replacing the factory bushing with a custom-made one.

Patients: Will VS 2002 1.5 L (electric power steering!)

We climb into the pedal assembly and remove the protection from the steering shaft, unscrew it by hand, and remove it easily:

We completely unscrew the bolt securing the intermediate shaft to the crosspiece:

IMPORTANT! Put the wheels straight, remove the key from the ignition, lock the steering wheel. This is done in order to prevent, after removing the rack, turning the steering wheel by a number of revolutions more than it should be. Otherwise, a break in the wires of the "snail" of the airbag and the resulting malfunction of the latter are inevitable.

We hang out in front of the car and throw off the wheels (front enough).

Next is the removal of the steering rack. It has been proven from our own experience that it is possible to unscrew the rail fasteners without additional disassembly, but pulling out the rail is very time consuming. Do not waste time, twist the stretcher - you will save a lot of time and effort.

But first - the steering tips: take out the cotter pin, unscrew the nut, hit the place indicated below with a sharp, biting hammer blow, and the finger falls out by itself (we do it with both sides

We unscrew the subframe, 4 bolts to the body, 3 bolts in the area of ​​the rear engine mount and 3 nuts in the same place.

After that, the subframe, together with the rack, gently (if you planned to unscrew the last bolt correctly) lowers and hangs on the levers and the anti-roll bar. Everything - the rail at a glance: unscrew:

We remove and carry to the workbench

Let's start disassembling it:
1) Remove the rubber boot.

2) Take the 12 key and unscrew the bolt shown in the photo.

3) Remove the intermediate shaft.

4) Unscrew the lock nut (used a gas wrench)

5) Unscrew the clamping cup of the rack shaft.

6) Then we put on and fix the intermediate shaft again, then take out the entire shaft with the bearing with a light blow with a copper hammer on it.

7) Turning the rail over, disassemble the adjusting unit: unscrew the lock nut with a 41 key

8) Then we unscrew the adjusting cup using any flat object, take out the spring and the pressure piston.

9) Remove the left anther, very carefully so as not to break (we draw inside around the circumference of the anther with a non-sharp object)

10) Unscrew the left rod from the rail using keys 29 and 22.

11) On the back side, we loosen the large clamp and detach the boot.

12) Take the rolling pin out of the rail, put it aside.

13) We look at the rail from the left end - we see an aluminum hold-down washer, behind it is the notorious bushing.

14) We hook the washer with a hook and knock it out, then take out the sleeve.

Here it is - the sleeve, because of which all the ailments. )

For left hand drive

Modifying a pre-made PTFE bushing according to the attached drawing.

15) On the new sleeve, we make a longitudinal cut necessary for its compression and setting in place. We orient the cut in the direction of the car's movement - in this direction the rail experiences the least stress.

16) Lubricate the sleeve and gently straighten the sleeve, check the fit of the sleeve with the free end of the rolling pin.

17) Press in the aluminum washer with a suitable head. Insert the rolling pin into place. We insert the shaft into place, for this, with a 22 key, we swing the rolling pin around its axis and at the same time push the shaft - at a certain moment the gears are aligned and the shaft falls through. We tighten the clamping sleeve of the shaft until it stops, we counter it with a lock nut.We assemble the adjusting unit, tighten the adjusting cup until it stops and release it by 90 degrees, counter nut with a counter nut. Subsequently, the tightening torque can be adjusted on the machine after a test drive with a certain skill, the mechanism must be tightened until the steering wheel returns to the straight position when exiting the turn. Pull into place, anthers into place, tighten. Rail for stretcher, stretcher for cars. Near the rear (in relation to the rear of the car) fastenings of the subframe to the body there are holes on the body and on the subframe, the combination of which excludes the removal of the caster. (holes in the photo)

Tips to the levers, set the wheels straight, the steering wheel is straight from the very beginning. We pull everything in and climb into the salon. There we weaken the upper crosspiece, move the shaft between the crosspieces upwards and put the lower crosspiece on the intermediate shaft. We are tightening everything. Subsequently, you can similarly align the steering wheel if, when driving straight, the steering wheel looks slightly to the side.

Miniatures

Miniatures

Images

Here are the repair costs:
Toyota 90369-19005 Bearing 714.87 r.
Toyota 04445-12150 Steering rack repair kit 2 404.09 rubles.
Toyota 90301-33003 Steering rack sealing ring 55.45 rubles.

plus a set of cut keys for 500 rubles.
The bearing could not have been changed, as it turned out, but ordered one for one.

The topic of repairing the steering rack is still relevant on our forum. So questions are poured into our "discoverers" Schnapps and Amigo33... And they, as far as possible, answer. Or give good links to resources where this topic is discussed in detail.
One of these resources is the service station "AUTOSTAR" from the city of Chita. And the author of this material is Sergey Kalashnikov. Thank God that there are still people ready to share their skills.

Contributor's note: I hope the moderators of our site will not accept gratitude for the advertisement.
The steering rack device can be viewed here.

This is how the removed rail looks like.

Checking horizontal shafts for corrosion.

Some Toyota Corolla drivers complain that when driving on uneven roads, a knock is heard somewhere in the steering wheel area, while not noticing any visual manifestations of a malfunction. As a rule, this sound signals the need for repair of a steering rack Toyota Corolla. If you start to notice this kind, we advise you to start repairing as soon as possible: it is known that any problem is easier to fix in the early stages. This also applies to car malfunctions.

If there are any problems in the human body, then he notifies about it with the help of symptoms. A car is also a kind of organism that, in the event of a malfunction, sends signals to its owner. So, by what signs can you determine the malfunction of the steering rack?

Steering rack device diagram

• A characteristic knock from the steering (this is a consequence of an increase in backlash - a gap at the junction of the steering rack and rod);
• Leakage of fluid from the power steering (the reason is damage to the boot and corrosion of the oil seal, a possible consequence is corrosion of the shaft);
• Feeling of vibration when turning the steering wheel;
• Inaccuracy in control (the reason is shaft deformation);
• Biting the steering wheel (after turning, the steering wheel does not return to its original position).

If you regularly observe these symptoms, we advise you to contact a service center to tighten the rail. Otherwise, the amplitudes of the backlash will increase, the knocking will become louder, which will lead to mechanical destruction of the part. The car will be less responsive to control, which can create a difficult road situation. However, the destruction of the rail is a rather long process, however, you must agree that constant knocking does not contribute to a pleasant trip, irritating and distracting the driver.

You can fix the problem of increasing backlash at any Toyota service center.You can try to fix the problem yourself, fortunately, there are a lot of materials on the Internet dedicated to how to tighten the steering rack on Toyota Corolla... However, this method of solving the problem is fraught with some nuances and is suitable only for drivers who have at least minimal experience in repairing their iron horse.

• wear of the steering column bracket bearing;
• failure of the shaft cross bearings;
• weakening of the tightness of the connection between the bracket and the cross.

First of all, you should try to determine the location of the malfunction, that is, to determine exactly where the backlash has increased. This can be done during a visual inspection: probe all connections and test the vehicle in motion. Then, when the problem is localized, you can start disassembling the mechanism.

1. First of all, the car must be immobilized. Place it on the handbrake and, for reliability, install anti-rollback devices under the rear wheels.

1. Remove the plastic trim from the steering wheel and remove the steering wheel.

1. Remove the protective plate - when you do this, you will see the nut. Unscrew it and remove the steering wheel mounted on the shaft.

1. Free the steering column: unscrew the bracket bolts and the steering gear, remove the boot.

1. After the column is removed, you can proceed to repair of a steering rack Toyota Corolla 150... Examine it carefully for malfunctioning bearings and a cross, loose connections. Tighten loose connections, replace faulty parts with new ones.

1. Assembling the mechanism back, carry out the above manipulations in reverse order.

For Toyota Corolla 120 cars, the most common way to repair a rail is to replace a bushing. This is due to the high cost of the new part (about 20 thousand rubles). Usually, steering rack bushing Toyota Corolla 120 have to be ordered from a turner due to the almost complete absence of these in the free sale.

Before undertaking repairs, we advise you to familiarize yourself with the device of the part. Getting down to repair of the steering rack on your Toyota Corolla 102, do not forget to read videodedicated to her device.

Steering is one of the basic mechanisms of a car. The safety of the driver and passengers depends on the serviceability of the unit, therefore, checking and repairing the Toyota steering rack is carried out especially carefully. This article discusses the signs and causes of rack malfunction, as well as how the Toyota Corolla 150 steering rack is diagnosed and repaired.

The mechanical gear assembly is designed to convert steering wheel rotation into horizontal deflection of the vehicle's front wheels. The structure itself consists of several elements, the well-coordinated work of which ensures the movement of the vehicle:

First of all, the driver of the car is obliged to monitor the state of the steering. By some signs, you can determine the malfunction of the device and contact a car service in time to troubleshoot. What you should pay attention to:

• knocking on the front suspension;
• lack of effort when turning the steering wheel;
• play in the steering rack;
• tight rotation of the steering wheel;
• increased sensitivity of the vehicle;
• oil leak;
• noise in the power steering pump;
• spontaneous rotation of the steering wheel;
• reducing the fluid level in the power steering reservoir on a permanent basis.

The main reason why motorists turn to our car service due to rail wear is the poor quality of the road surface.

Correct driving also affects the damage to an important unit. For example, if the driver does not slow down in front of holes in the road, the steering rack will quickly fail, signaling the malfunction with a knock.

Hydraulic steering racks deteriorate if the driver is accustomed to leaving his car in the winter with the wheels turned out.

Premature wear is also possible if the hydraulic fluid is changed infrequently.

The tightness of the assembly depends on the integrity of the anthers, therefore, dust and dirt must not be allowed to enter the rail, which can lead to wear of the seals and the occurrence of leaks.

Violation of the rules for operating the vehicle affects the working condition of the steering rack. It is very important to use high-quality components and working fluid when servicing your car, as well as to undergo maintenance on time.

Another reason for control failure is often a change in the working functions of the wheels. For example, incorrect tire pressure, bearing wear, balancing.

If you are interested in the Toyota Corolla steering rack price, then you have found any signs of a malfunction, indicating that the steering rack is out of order. But, before deciding to replace or repair the Toyota Corolla rail, you need to do a fault diagnosis.

Diagnostics of the steering condition is carried out in three stages.

The first includes inspection of the car, elimination of damage to the chassis and checking all auxiliary units and mechanisms. This stage of diagnostics is carried out in accordance with a certain sequence in order to identify the malfunction as soon as possible.

Next, the removed element is diagnosed, knocks and backlash are determined. This work shows specialists whether it is possible to repair the steering column of the Corolla or whether a complete replacement of the rack is required. The device is clamped in a vise to check the steering rods, backlash of the support sleeve and other nuances.

The final stage of the check is a detailed inspection. It is carried out after the complete disassembly of the mechanism.

This procedure can only be performed in a specialized garage with a pit. For work, you need a key designed to adjust the unit. The vehicle is securely secured and its wheels are in a straight position.

With a backlash meter, the gap is measured, which should not exceed ten degrees. The rail is tightened using a screw located in the end cover of the mechanism. The location of the screw is written in the vehicle's passport.

The staff is adjusted at a leisurely pace. At the same time, the movement of the steering wheel, the value of the backlash and the knock in the column are constantly checked. After finishing work, you need to test the chassis. If there is a heavy wheel travel, the adjusting screw is released.

The result of the adjustment should be the complete disappearance of knocking or backlash. In addition, free rotation of the wheel to the standard center position must be achieved.

Before the troubleshooting procedure, oil and dirt residues are removed from the steering rack. This is done using a technical fluid. After disassembly, the elements are replaced (bushings, rings, power seals). Repairs can include turning work that is done on a grinding machine. On it, the shaft is ground and polished to a mirror finish.

Any repair work is completed by assembly with the control of the necessary factory parameters. At a special diagnostic stand, specialists check the characteristics of the unit, and then install the rail in its regular place. Next, the power steering system is flushed, oil is filled and the system is pumped.

Some advice from car enthusiasts can be useful to prevent damage to the steering rack and its premature wear:

• you need to monitor the condition of the anthers;
• do not keep the steering wheel in the extreme position for more than five seconds;
• in the winter season, you should not turn the steering wheel right after the engine warms up, but you should turn it with smooth short movements. These actions will help warm up the oil in the power steering system;
• all work that is carried out at the service station, it is advisable to supervise personally;
• do not spin the engine if the steering wheel is in the extreme position. This can lead to an increase in the load on the rack parts or wear of the power steering pump.

Since the steering rack is an important part of the machine, the repair of the unit must be approached with all responsibility. Each vehicle owner must take care of the timely diagnosis of the car, because in the event of a steering malfunction, the driver and passengers are at risk.

In our car service, the replacement of steering mechanisms and their repair is a demanded service. We specialize in remanufacturing the steering system and have a set of tools to carry out the work.

Thanks to the availability of equipment and the experience of specialists, high-quality repairs are carried out in our car service and a guarantee is issued for the work done!

I bring to your attention a photo report on the repair of the steering rack of a 2001 Toyota Corolla, 120th body with a right-hand drive.

The need to replace the bushing was signaled daily by a terrible clang and clatter when driving over small bumps / irregularities (there are plenty of them in our city).

So:
1. We drive the car into the garage, turn the wheels straight. We fix the steering wheel with a seat belt against turning. Car on jacks. Removing the front wheels.

2. Unscrew the stretcher. Bolts and nuts are marked in red.

3. And one more subframe bolt on each side.

4. Unscrew the steering end nuts on each side and unscrew the nuts.

We get such a picture

Then carefully remove the steering tips from the steering knuckle. Ideally a puller. I used a hammer because the tips were going to change.

5. On the right side under the steering wheel, remove the plastic protection. There are two clips (marked in red).

6. Unscrew the bolt securing the intermediate shaft and bend the boot latches (indicated by arrows). We make marks on the shaft!

7. The subframe is lowered by holding on to the ball joints and stabilizer struts.

8. Unscrew the 4 bolts securing the steering rack.

10. Remove the boot and unscrew the intermediate shaft. Making labels!

11. Using a gas wrench, unscrew the lock nut.

12. With these "thin-nose pliers" the nut is perfectly unscrewed.

13. Remove the anthers from the steering rods.

14. Turn off the steering rods.

The rail is held with a 22 key. The rod is unscrewed with a 32 key. There were no lock washers.

15. Using a gas wrench, unscrew the adjusting nut locknut.

I unscrewed everything together.

16. We remove the spring and the pusher.

17. Pull the shaft out with a little effort by hand.

19. On the left side of the rack housing, behind an aluminum retaining ring, the hero of the occasion is hidden - a plastic sleeve.

20. I removed this circlip using this bolt and two (inserted into each other from the tool kit extension).

With a large bolt head, he hooked on the edge of an aluminum sleeve, and inside he hit the bolt with a metal extension (he hit the extension with a hammer).

The sleeve flew out in 3 light blows.

22. We clean everything. Here you can see the inner bearing.

23. After global cleaning, grease the rail. I used this one.

24. Insert a new bushing. I put the original one. From fluoroplastic, etc. I didn’t find it, maybe they would be more durable, although I don’t know.

We put a retaining ring on top of the installed sleeve.

And press in with a suitable size head.

25. Insert the rail and shaft. We tighten the nut and locknut onto the shaft.

26. Put back the pusher, the spring and tighten the adjusting nut.

27. We fasten the steering rods. I used a thread lock (blue, split).

29. The clamps are perfectly tightened with pliers.

30. We tighten the steering tips (the left and right are different).

31. Reassemble in reverse order + trip to camber / toe.

Determining a malfunction in the steering rack is easy. There are several main signs that indicate a breakdown:

• the appearance of leak marks next to the oil seals;
• the occurrence of difficulties with driving a car;
• tracking the movement of Toyota Corona / Caldina by extraneous sounds;
• corrosion coating of the stem surface;
• the appearance of a slack backlash.

To understand why the problem arose, detailed diagnostics will allow. It will also show whether the repair can help or whether a complete replacement of the rail will be an obligatory measure to eliminate the problem. Repairing a separate part of the steering rack will be cheaper. But, unfortunately, it cannot fully restore the working life of the part.

Replacing the rail in an authorized car service will cost at least $ 70. The amount is large, so the owners often carry out the entire procedure on their own, saving on the services of specialists.

How correct is this decision? It is difficult to judge. However, the dismantling and installation of the steering rack on a Toyota Corona / Caldina can be done by every car owner, even without experience in repair work. The only thing you need for work is a tool and detailed instructions. If you follow the algorithm very carefully, listening to the recommendations, you can quickly complete the procedure and the result will be no worse than in the service.

The manual is written by Toyota Corona / Caldina, making it the best source of information possible. You can familiarize yourself with the material and accompanying illustrations here:

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Unscrewing the bolts securing the steering rack to the subframe 4 pcs

put a mark on the steering universal joint before removing and unscrewing

unscrewing the steering rods with a gas wrench No. 1

removed steering rack from the car

further photo of the disassembled steering rack

1.Plastic bushing that breaks in the steering rack
2.the metal washer that holds the plastic sleeve to pull it out, you had to first fill in the WD, then drill it from the side with a thin drill to pull it out
3. manufactured wrench to unscrew the nut under No. 4
4. I unscrewed the nut with an oil seal with a homemade wrench No. 3 (before unscrewing the nut, you need to remove the three retainers, otherwise spoil the thread on the nut, which I did safely and spoiled the thread)
5. Pressing sleeve for hexagon 17 to unscrew the adjusting sleeve, used a bolt with a nut and a spanner wrench
6. a boot which is put on the shaft No. 7 and closes the nut No. 4 to prevent dirt from getting
7.the shaft that moves the steering rod No. 8
8.steering rod all rusty + a little grease

further in the photo you can see the steering rod cleaned of rust and grease

photo of a plastic sleeve and a metal washer in order to pull out the sleeve, it was necessary to break it, not a fountain as well as a washer
drilled

Registration date 2013-05-25

So, a fairly common malfunction in a car is a sudden knock on the steering rack. For cars Toyota Passo this phenomenon is quite widespread and belongs to the category of "childhood diseases".

Three ways can be proposed for an elementary solution to this problem without replacing the entire steering rack. You need to know that knocking in 95% of cases occurs due to wear of the copper-graphite bushing. Here is what is known from the practice of this issue.

To do this, in order to remove the worn out bushing, it is necessary to disassemble the entire rail. The most difficult thing is precisely in disassembling-assembling the steering rack, where two original keys may be required, which can be borrowed for a while from a universal set of keys of one of your friends. Give the removed bushing to any "adequate" turner who, according to the model, will be able to carve a similar one from caprolon, maybe even from fluoroplastic. On average, the cost of such work costs 200-300 rubles.

In order not to look for special keys for disassembling the rail, clamp the rail tightly in a vice so that the bushing is pointing up. Now turn the rack down to the maximum. You will see a small gap between the bushing and the rack stem. Here you will need 5-7 pre-prepared metal pins about 20 cm long and no more than 1 mm in diameter.Next, take a thin tap and drive these pins into the gap with minimal effort. Be careful when driving in the studs to avoid accidentally splitting the already fragile bushing material. Thus, while turning the rack rod, evenly distribute all the pins around the circumference of the inner bore of the bushing. Now the bushing will compress the rack rod more tightly (due to the studs), which will eliminate the need to replace the bushing and disassemble the entire steering rack. Such a simple manipulation of the bushing, which takes no more than 45 minutes, is enough for you for about 80-100 thousand kilometers without knocking on the steering rack. Agree, this is a lot and commensurate with the resource of the timing belt on most cars. This method of eliminating knocking in the steering rack is the simplest and most universal for steering racks of any car brands. In addition, this method is quite reliable.

This method was tested by one of the owners of a Toyota car. Passo, which assures that there is no need to grind a duplicate of the bushing due to the complete identity of this bushing with the bushing from the old Tavria car. Instead of special keys to disassemble the steering rack, he used a universal bicycle key with several horns. True, he had to undermine this key a little. According to this car owner, the budget for eliminating knocking on the rail in this way was 150 rubles.

The described methods of eliminating knocking in the steering rack of a car Toyota Passo does not claim to be "the ultimate truth" and can be recommended for owners of this vehicle on a budget.

Quite expensive and time-consuming tuning with the replacement of the steering column of the Toyota Corolla 120 can be done both at a service station for cars of the Toyota family, and in your own garage with your own hands. But, before embarking on "all serious", you need to make sure that the cause of extraneous knocks that give off to the steering wheel and the body is precisely the malfunction of the steering rack.

In the experience of motorists described in the article, there are also easier repair methods.

Switch off the engine and start shaking the steering wheel from side to side with a swing of about 5-7 cm. If you hear a tapping sound, then the reason is the steering system mechanisms. However, if the knock resembles, as it were, a tapping somewhere very close under the steering wheel, then this is the sound of an electrical loop. You shouldn't pay attention to it.

The steering mechanisms of Toyota Corolla include a steering column, cardan shafts, as well as the steering rack itself with rods and tips. Failure of a single mechanism is best determined by the elimination method.

First you need to exclude the malfunction of the handpieces as the cause of the knocking. An assistant is needed here. When he gently shakes the steering wheel on the sides, you need to alternately grab the tips with your palm. In a faulty hinge with a large backlash requiring repair, the sound will be felt with the palm of your hand.

The steering column itself or the shaft extending from it to the rail practically fail very rarely. The steering rack suffers much more with high mileage. In addition, it rusts a lot from damp and salt. This can also cause its premature failure.

One of the cheapest ways to restore the Toyota Corolla steering rack is to repair it without dismantling it. For this operation, you need to stock up on an M6 grease nipple with a rubber cap for it and 400 g Mannol grease.

The picture shows two grease fittings with caps, but one must be selected for this repair. The one for which there is both a drill and a tap.

Next, you need to drive the car into a hole, organize a good lighting at the location of the steering rack. In the rail itself, choose a place where you can get close with a drill, a threading tool and a syringe press.

In the selected place, we first drill a hole, then we try to extract as much as possible from it the chips and metal crumbs formed during drilling. To do this, you can use a vacuum cleaner and all kinds of wire hooks with strips of rags.

Moreover, we do the drilling very carefully so that after the moment of passing the rail body, the drill does not go deeper and does not damage other parts.

We cut the threads and screw the oil can into the hole. To prevent spontaneous unscrewing of the oiler during further operation, you can apply a thread lock to its threaded part before screwing in. This composition is sold in any car dealership. Buy the smallest volume of those offered.

Then, using a syringe press, fill the column with grease.

The amount of lubricant for repairs was taken arbitrarily - 400 g. Wipe the surface of the rail next to the oiler, put a rubber cap on it. It is noticed that the steering wheel is getting a little heavier, but the knocks of the rail are no longer audible.

This repair can be considered universal for most cars, both for the Toyota Corolla 120 and for models of the Toyota family of later and higher class models.

And yet, before a decision is made to drill the rack housing, you need to check for play in two more steering gear crosses, which are located in the cabin under the steering wheel. Another source of knocking can be a telescopic tube that regulates the reach of the rudder. Quite often, the knocking comes from these parts, and it will be very offensive when, when doing all the work on stuffing grease into the rail, the knocking does not stop.

Sometimes crosses with large backlash are installed directly at the factory, and they begin to knock after a short run. Despite the brand name of the car, sometimes the knock can be caused by the bolts to fix the crosspieces on the shaft. They are often not locked, they turn away and knocks occur in these joints.

It is the steering racks of the Toyota Corolla that begin to knock and usually require repair only after a run of more than 100 thousand kilometers. First of all, the knock begins to be heard when the wheels hit the bumps in the road - potholes and bumps. This sound is quite loud, but with a dull tinge and does not give off to the steering wheel, vibration shocks are not felt with your hands.

For this type of service of the Toyota Corolla 120 steering rack, the recommended lubricant is AZMOL FIOL-1. If we compare it with Litols, then it wins a lot, since it belongs to the NLGI 1-class and is characterized by low viscosity even at low temperatures. In addition, this grease does not contain molybdenum disulfides, which can adversely affect the polymer elements of the steering rack.