DIY steering rack repair Toyota

Golf steering wheel repair 3 practical video

On our not-so-new Volkswagen Golf, the steering rack was completely useless. The problem has become noticeable for a long time, and now it is time to solve it. We carry out a chimney log with our own hands in almost home conditions. Now right on the steering gear. at the bottom, almost above the pedals, we separate the steering shaft mounts to unscrew them, sometimes it is necessary to remove the anther in the inside.

The next step should be to remove the fluid, for this you need to remove the roof from the hydraulic fluid reservoir. From below, under the machine, disconnect the hose leading to the power steering pump, and we drain the fluid from the system. We raise the car jack and place it on the cushions so you can remove the wheels. After removing the wheels, unscrew the nuts of the guide tips, the key to the tips is removed either with a special puller or with hammer blows on the steering knuckle,

You must be careful not to damage the thread and dusters on the guides. You can now unscrew the fenders to the steering rack by holding the three bolts. The front can be unscrewed from the bottom with a wrench or a gimbal at the top and two others at the back. Raise the subframe slightly using the connector and unscrew the steering rack mounting bolts. Do not attempt to remove the bolts from the subframe. You can now remove the bracket on the passenger side that secures the steering rack.

It is necessary to remove the anther located on top steering rackso as not to break it when we lower the subframe. Then loosen the subframe bolts front and rear. Make sure all items attached to the rail are detached. Now, finally, unscrew the previously loosened bolts, you need to remember how. Slightly, about 5 centimeters, lower the subframe to remove the rail.

This step should be done with extreme caution. Unscrew the bolt and pull the cardan out of the tie rod, now it's easy to remove the rail. The last operation of dismantling the rail. take it off subframe bolts, on the driver's side, remove from the rear beam. Replace the failed old steering rack with a new one. You can use zip ties to secure the air tube between the anthers. After installing the new rail, immediately install the cardan, we put on the groove and screw the bolt.

Raising the steering rack a little, connect the mount cardan shaft and the steering shaft in the cab, we put on the boot. We connect inlet hoses and hydraulic branches on site. Now from the cabin we direct the rail onto the fixing bolts on the stretcher, we fix it with a rubber band pre-installed under it.

I haven't gotten up yet, but the tyrant writes everywhere to shoot.

I want to raise a long-standing topic, which at 150 Corolla may not be as relevant as at 120 - ku, because according to my own observations on Corolla 150, it is the rake that does not bother so much. Basically the steering column, both promvala. Nevertheless, I want to share, because the topic of steering racks, including their repair and lubrication, is relevant: the steering rack is not officially repaired or serviced, but is quite expensive. In addition, there are no steering rods for sale separately, if we talk about “original” ones.

The advice was shared by a person working in a taxi company in Vladivostok, which acquired many of our Corollas at one time, in fact, he operated them with decent mileage.
This was not the only useful practical advice of his that I read about.The author also submitted to the court a photo report on the implementation of this simple, in general, technique. I just brought it a little in a form convenient for reading and downloading.

I will make a reservation right away that experts on the usefulness of the “oiler” tie-in disagreed. Some arguments I can voice, some are not Copenhagen.
In general, I invite you to discuss.

I’ll add three points right away, I read the opinions:
1. The lubricant used in the report is COMPLETELY unsuitable for Toyota steering racks
2. She was squirted too much.
3. The insert was made, a little in the wrong place.

I completely agree with the first one, I am not ready to either confirm or dispute the other two.

I can add from my experience in repairing / lubricating the rails on my previous car - KIA C'eed. Here are the generalized methods that I used taken from the KIA C’eed forum:

So, everything that is described here takes place on most modern cars, both classmates and cars of a higher class than Toyta. Before drilling the rail itself, first check the steering crosses that are in the cabin (if I'm not mistaken, there are 2 of them), as well as the telescopic pipe (it is responsible for adjusting the steering wheel for reach), in most cases it knocks right there. It is also not uncommon for crosses with increased backlash to be installed at the factory, which begin to knock after a few hundred kilometers, it also happens that the bolts fixing the crosses turn away or weaken (not all manufacturers counter them, oddly enough). The slats themselves usually begin to tap at a run of 100-120 thousand km (I will make a reservation for everyone in different ways), this knock usually manifests itself when driving through pits and combs and has a dull but loud sound, while it usually does not reflect on the steering wheel, that is, at the same time, no shock is felt on the steering wheel.

About lubricant. AZMOL FIOL-1 lubricant was used as recommended for this type of work. FIOL-1 is an NLGI 1 class grease, i.e. has a lower viscosity at low temperatures compared to the universal greases of the Litol group (NLGI 2), which undoubtedly has a positive effect on further operation. Otherwise, these lubricants are identical.
About volume. 150 grams of grease on each side is enough (two oilers were placed). No need to clog the entire rail to the eyeballs, the air flow inside must be maintained.

As a result, I concluded that lubrication of the rack does not help for a long time. I traveled about 20 thousand. After lubrication, then I just changed the rack. And I set the methods for treating knocking in the steering according to my next priority
1. rail replacement
2. steering rack lubrication (Fiol-1)
4. screwing the bolt into the EUR to increase the force on the secondary shaft (dumb, tight steering wheel)

Undoubtedly. Separate one from the other. It's easy to do it in the pit :)
As for the Corolla 150, most of the knocks come from there, and not from the rack itself. The rail itself knocks on the RAV-4, and on the Outlenlers, and on the Highlanders, and right from the cabin.
On Corollas, if the rake knocks, it also knocks right away. Or a little bit later. As far as I read, the replacement under the guarantee did not give anything, in general, the author also writes about this.
On the indicated runs, knocking is already wear and tear during operation. It definitely cannot be cured by anything other than the manufacture of fluoroplastic bushings (I think this topic is familiar to you).
Knocks in the steering column take place due to unscrewing and on the Corolla, this, as correctly noted, is eliminated very simply, pulling up without any dibo disassembly.
The crosses of the intermediate shaft, which is responsible for adjusting the reach), there is no way to treat this for sure 🙂
There is another intermediate shaft under the hood safety folding, the same story. Two cardan shafts, and a knock in the spline connection of the folding shaft.
Also, discard the knock from the steering tips (which, in general, does not happen immediately with Corolla at low mileage), and most importantly, from the bushings and struts of the anti-roll bar, the knocks from which are very often confused with the rail itself.

Symptoms: knocking in the steering rack, which manifests itself when driving through small bumps (a disease of all Corollas with electric power steering).
The diagnosis of servicemen is the replacement of the rail (in practice, it helps out for a short time and costs a lot).
Solution: replacing everything in the rail that can knock. And there are only two places in such rails - the adjusting unit and in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe sleeve located at the opposite end of the rail (in the case of right-hand drive cars, the left side of the rail). And since nothing needs to be changed in the adjusting unit, the entire repair comes down to replacing the factory bushing with a custom-made one.

Patients: Will VS 2002 1.5 L (electric power steering!)

We climb into the pedal assembly and remove the protection from the steering shaft, it is unscrewed by hand, it can be removed easily:

We completely unscrew the bolt that secures the intermediate shaft to the cross:

IMPORTANT! Put the wheels straight, remove the key from the ignition lock, lock the steering wheel. This is done in order to prevent, after removing the rack, turning the steering wheel by a number of revolutions more than it should be. Otherwise, a break in the wires of the “snail” of the airbag and a malfunction of the latter is inevitable.

We hang out in front of the car and take off the wheels (the front ones are enough).

Next comes the removal of the steering rack. It has been proven from our own experience that it is possible to unscrew the fasteners of the rail without additional disassembly, but pulling out the rail is very time consuming. Do not waste time, twist the stretcher - save a lot of time and effort.

But first - the steering tips: we take out the cotter pin, unscrew the nut, with a sharp biting blow of the hammer we hit the place indicated below, and the finger falls out by itself (we do it with both sides

We unscrew the subframe, 4 bolts to the body, 3 bolts in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe rear engine mount and 3 nuts in the same place.

After that, the subframe, along with the rail, gently (if you planned to unscrew the last bolt correctly) lowers and hangs on the levers and anti-roll bar. Everything - the rail is in full view: unscrew:

We remove and carry to the workbench

Let's start disassembling it:
1) Remove the rubber boot.

2) We take the key for 12 and unscrew the bolt indicated in the photo.

3) Remove the intermediate shaft.

4) Unscrew the locknut (we used a gas wrench)

5) Unscrew the clamping glass of the rack shaft.

6) Then we put on and fix the intermediate shaft again, then with a light blow with a copper hammer on it we take out the entire shaft with the bearing.

7) Turning the rail over, disassemble the adjusting unit: with a 41 wrench, unscrew the lock nut

8) Then we unscrew the adjusting cup using any flat object, take out the spring and the clamping piston.

9) Remove the left anther, very carefully so as not to tear (we draw inside the circumference of the anther with a non-sharp object)

10) We unscrew the left rod from the rail using the keys 29 and 22.

11) On the reverse side, we relax the large clamp and unfasten the boot.

12) We take out the rolling pin from the rail, put it aside.

13) We look at the rail from the left end - we see an aluminum pressure washer, behind it - the notorious bushing.

14) We hook the washer with a hook and knock it out, then take out the sleeve.

Here it is - the sleeve, because of which all ailments. )

For left hand drive

We are modifying a prefabricated PTFE bushing according to the attached drawing.

15) On the new sleeve, we make a longitudinal cut, which is necessary for its compression and putting into place. We orient the cut in the direction of the direction of movement of the car - in this direction the rail experiences the least load.

16) Lubricate the sleeve and carefully straighten the sleeve, check the fit of the sleeve with the free end of the rolling pin.

17) With a suitable head, we press in the aluminum washer. We put the rock in place. We insert the shaft into place, for this, with a key of 22, we swing the rolling pin around its axis and at the same time push the shaft - at a certain moment the gears are combined and the shaft falls through. We twist the clamping cup of the shaft until it stops, lock it with a lock nut.We assemble the adjusting assembly, tighten the adjusting cup until it stops and release it 90 degrees, lock it with a lock nut. Subsequently, the tightening torque can be adjusted on the car after a test drive with a certain skill, the mechanism must be tightened to a state where, when exiting a turn, the steering wheel itself returns to a straight position. Thrust into place, anthers into place, tighten. Rail on the subframe, subframe to the car. Near the rear (in relation to the rear of the car) fastenings of the subframe to the body there are holes on the body and on the subframe, the combination of which excludes the removal of the caster. (holes in the photo)

Tips to the levers, set the wheels straight, the steering wheel is straight from the very beginning. We attract everything and climb into the salon. There we weaken the upper cross, move the shaft between the crosses up and put the lower cross on the intermediate shaft. We are tightening everything. Subsequently, you can similarly align the steering wheel if, when driving straight, the steering wheel looks slightly to the side.

Miniatures

Miniatures

Images

Here are the repair costs:
Toyota 90369-19005 Bearing $7.87
Toyota 04445-12150 Steering rack repair kit $2,404.09
Toyota 90301-33003 Steering rack sealing ring $55.45

plus a set of split keys for 500 rubles.
The bearing could not be changed, as it turned out, but I ordered it for one.

The topic of repairing the steering rack is still relevant on our forum. So questions are pouring in to our “pioneers” Schnapps and Amigo33. And they respond as soon as possible. Or give good links to those resources where this topic is discussed in detail.
One of these resources is the service station "AUTOSTAR" from the city of Chita. And the author of this material is Sergey Kalashnikov. Thank God that there are still people who are ready to share their skills.

Editor's note: I hope the moderators of our site will not accept thanks for advertising.
The steering rack device can be viewed here.

This is what the strip looks like removed.

Check horizontal shafts for corrosion.

Some Toyota Corolla drivers complain that when driving on rough roads, a knock is heard somewhere in the steering wheel area, while not noticing any visual manifestations of a malfunction. As a rule, this sound signals the need steering rack repair toyota corolla If you start to notice this kind, we advise you to get it repaired as soon as possible: it is known that any problem is easier to fix in the early stages. This also applies to car problems.

If there are any problems in the human body, then it notifies about it with the help of symptoms. A car is also in some way an organism that, in the event of malfunctions, gives signals to its owner. So, by what signs can you determine the malfunction of the steering rack?

Steering rack device diagram

• A characteristic knock from the steering (there is a consequence of an increase in backlash - a gap at the junction of the steering rack and thrust);
• Leakage of fluid from the power steering (cause - damage to the anther and corrosion of the gland, a possible consequence - corrosion of the shaft);
• Sensation of vibration when turning the steering wheel;
• Inaccuracy in control (cause - shaft deformation);
• Biting the steering wheel (after turning the steering wheel does not return to its original position).

If you regularly observe these symptoms, we advise you to contact the service center for tightening the rail. Otherwise, the backlash amplitudes will increase, the knock will become louder, which will lead to mechanical destruction of the part. The car will be less responsive to control, which can create a difficult traffic situation. However, the destruction of the rack is a rather long process, however, you must agree that constant knocking does not contribute to a pleasant trip, annoying and distracting the driver.

You can fix the problem of increased backlash at any Toyota service center.You can try to fix the problem yourself, fortunately, there are a lot of materials on the Internet devoted to how to tighten steering rack on toyota corolla. However, this method of solving the problem is associated with some nuances and is only suitable for drivers who have at least minimal experience in repairing their iron horse.

• steering column bracket bearing wear;
• failure of the shaft cross bearings;
• weakening the tightness of the connection between the bracket and the cross.

First of all, you should try to determine the location of the malfunction, that is, to determine exactly where the backlash has increased. This can be done during a visual inspection: feel all the connections and test the car in motion. Then, when the problem is localized, you can proceed to disassemble the mechanism

1. First of all, the car must be immobilized. Put it on the handbrake and for reliability, install chocks under the rear wheels.

1. Release a steering from a plastic covering and remove a steering wheel.

1. Remove the protective plate - by doing this, you will see a nut. Unscrew it and remove the steering wheel mounted on the shaft.

1. Release the steering column: unscrew the bracket bolts and steering gear, remove the boot.

1. After the column is removed, you can proceed to Toyota Corolla 150 steering rack repair. Carefully examine it for bearing and cross failure, loose connections. Tighten loose connections, replace faulty parts with new ones.

1. When assembling the mechanism back, carry out the above manipulations in reverse order.

For Toyota Corolla 120 cars, the most common way to repair the rail is to replace the bushing. This is due to the high cost of a new part (about 20 thousand rubles). Usually, steering rack bushing Toyota Corolla 120 you have to order from a turner due to the almost complete absence of these in free sale.

Before undertaking repairs, we advise you to familiarize yourself with the device details. Getting Started steering rack repair on your Toyota Corolla 102don't forget to check out videodedicated to its device.

Steering is one of the main mechanisms of the car. The safety of the driver and passengers depends on the serviceability of the unit, so the Toyota steering rack is checked and repaired with particular care. This article discusses the signs and causes of a rack malfunction, as well as how the Toyota Corolla 150 steering rack is diagnosed and repaired.

A mechanical gear assembly designed to convert steering wheel turn into horizontal deflection of the vehicle's front wheels. The design itself consists of several elements, the coordinated work of which ensures the movement of the vehicle:

The state of the steering, in the first place, is obliged to monitor the driver of the car. By some signs, you can determine the malfunction of the device and contact a car service in time to troubleshoot. What you should pay attention to:

• knocking in the front suspension;
• lack of effort when turning the steering wheel;
• play in the steering rack;
• tight steering wheel rotation;
• increased sensitivity of the car;
• oil leakage;
• noise in the power steering pump;
• spontaneous rotation of the steering wheel;
• reducing the fluid level in the power steering reservoir on an ongoing basis.

The main reason why car enthusiasts turn to our car service because of rail wear is the poor quality of the road surface.

Also, the damage to an important node is affected by the correct driving. For example, if the driver does not slow down in front of potholes on the road, the steering rack will quickly fail, letting you know about the malfunction by knocking.

Hydraulic steering racks deteriorate if the driver is accustomed to leaving his car in the winter with the wheels turned out.

Premature wear is also possible with infrequent hydraulic fluid changes.

The tightness of the assembly depends on the integrity of the anthers, so dust and dirt should not be allowed to get inside the rail, which can lead to wear of the seals and leakage.

Violation of the rules for operating the vehicle affects the working condition of the steering rack. When servicing your car, it is very important to use high-quality components and working fluid, as well as to undergo maintenance on time.

Another cause of control failure is often a change in the operating functions of the wheels. For example, incorrect tire pressure, bearing wear, balancing.

If you are interested in the Toyota Corolla steering rack price, then you have found any signs of a malfunction indicating that the rack is out of order. But, before deciding to replace or repair the Toyota Corolla rail, it is necessary to diagnose faults.

Steering condition diagnostics is carried out in three stages.

The first includes the inspection of the car, the exclusion of a breakdown of the chassis and the verification of all auxiliary components and mechanisms. This stage of diagnostics is carried out in compliance with a certain sequence in order to identify the malfunction as quickly as possible.

Next, the removed element is diagnosed, knocks and backlashes are determined. This work shows specialists whether repair of the Corolla steering column is possible or a complete replacement of the rack is required. The device is clamped in a vice to check the steering rod apples, the backlash of the support sleeve and other nuances.

The final stage of the verification is a detailed inspection. It is carried out after the complete disassembly of the mechanism.

This procedure can only be carried out in a specialized garage with a pit. To work, you need a key designed to adjust the unit. The car is securely fixed and its wheels are set in a straight position.

Using a backlash meter, the gap is measured, which should not exceed ten degrees. The rail is tightened using a screw located in the end cover of the mechanism. The location of the screw is written in the vehicle's passport.

Reiki adjustment is done at a leisurely pace. At the same time, the movement of the steering wheel, the value of the play and the knock in the column are constantly checked. After finishing work, you need to test the chassis. If heavy wheel travel is observed, the adjusting screw is released.

The result of the adjustment should be the complete disappearance of knocking or play. In addition, free rotation of the wheel to the standard center position must be achieved.

Before the troubleshooting procedure, oil and dirt residues are cleaned from the steering rack. This is done with the use of technical fluid. After disassembly, the elements (bushings, rings, power seals) are replaced. Repair may include turning work that is performed on a grinding machine. On it, the shaft is ground and polished to a mirror finish.

Any repair work is completed by assembly with control of the necessary factory parameters. On a special diagnostic stand, specialists check the characteristics of the unit, and then install the rail in its original place. Next, the power steering system is flushed, oil is filled and the system is bled.

Some tips from car enthusiasts can be useful in preventing steering rack breakage and premature wear:

• you need to monitor the condition of the anthers;
• do not hold the steering wheel in the extreme position for more than five seconds;
• in the winter season, you should not turn the steering wheel immediately after warming up the engine, but you should turn it in smooth short movements. These actions will help warm up the oil in the power steering system;
• all work that is performed at the service station, it is desirable to control personally;
• do not spin the engine if the steering wheel is in the extreme position. This can lead to an increase in the load on the rack parts or wear of the power steering pump.

Since the steering rack is an important part of the device of the machine, the repair of the unit must be approached with all responsibility. Each vehicle owner must take care of the timely diagnosis of the car, because in the event of a steering malfunction, the driver and passengers are at risk.

In our car service, the replacement of steering gears and their repair is a demanded service. We specialize in the restoration of the steering system and have a set of tools for the work.

Thanks to the availability of equipment and the experience of specialists, high-quality repairs are carried out in our car service and a guarantee is issued for the work done!

I bring to your attention a photo report on the repair of the steering rack of a 2001 Toyota Corolla car, the 120th body with a right-hand drive.

The need to replace the bushing was signaled daily by a terrible clanging and rattling when driving over small bumps / bumps (there are plenty of them in our city).

So:
1. We drive the car into the garage, turn the wheels straight. We fix the steering wheel with a seat belt from turning. Car on jacks. We remove the front wheels.

2. Unscrew the subframe. Bolts and nuts are marked in red.

3. And one more subframe bolt on each side.

4. We unpin the nuts of the steering tips on each side and unscrew the nuts.

We get this picture

After carefully remove the steering tips from the steering knuckle. Ideally a puller. I used a hammer as tips were going to change.

5. On the right side under the steering wheel, remove the plastic protection. There are two clips (indicated in red).

6. Unscrew the bolt securing the intermediate shaft and bend the anther latches (indicated by arrows). We make marks on the shaft!

7. The subframe is lowered down, holding onto the ball joints and stabilizer links.

8. We unscrew 4 bolts of fastening of a steering rack.

10. Remove the boot and unscrew the intermediate shaft. Let's make marks!

11. Unscrew the lock nut with a gas wrench.

12. With such “thin-nose pliers”, the nut is perfectly unscrewed.

13. Remove the anthers from the steering rods.

14. Unscrew the tie rods.

The rail holds the key at 22. The rod is unscrewed by the key at 32. There were no lock washers.

15. Unscrew the locknut of the adjusting nut with a gas wrench.

I got everything together.

16. Remove the spring and pusher.

17. The shaft is removed with a little effort by hand.

19. On the left side of the rack housing, behind the aluminum retaining ring, the hero of the occasion is hidden - a plastic sleeve.

20. I removed this retaining ring with a bolt like this and two (inserted into each other extension from the tool kit).

With a large head of a bolt, he hooked it to the edge of the aluminum sleeve, and inside he hit the bolt with a metal extension (hitting the extension with a hammer).

The bushing flew out in 3 light blows.

22. We clean everything. Here you can see the inner bearing.

23. After global cleaning, lubricate the rail. I used this one.

24. Insert a new bushing. I installed the original. From fluoroplast, etc. I didn’t find it, maybe they would be more durable, although I don’t know.

We put a retaining ring on top of the installed bushing.

And we press in a suitable head.

25. Insert the rail and shaft. We tighten the nut and locknut onto the shaft.

26. We put back the pusher, spring and tighten the adjusting nut.

27. We fasten the steering rods. I used threadlocker (blue, detachable).

29. Clamps are perfectly tightened with pliers.

30. We twist the steering tips (left and right are different).

31. Assembly in reverse order + trip to the collapse / convergence.

Determining a malfunction in the steering rack is easy. There are several main signs that indicate a breakdown:

• the appearance of traces of a leak near the seals;
• the occurrence of difficulties with driving a car;
• accompanying the movement of Toyota Corona / Caldina with extraneous sounds;
• corrosion coating of the rod surface;
• the appearance of backlash rails.

To understand what caused the problem, a detailed diagnosis will allow. It will also show whether repairs can help or whether a complete replacement of the rail will be a mandatory measure to eliminate the problem. Repair of a separate part of the steering rack will be cheaper. But, unfortunately, he cannot fully restore the working life of the part.

Replacing the rack in an authorized car service will cost at least $ 70. The amount is large, so often the owners perform the entire procedure on their own, saving on the services of specialists.

How correct is this decision? It's hard to judge. However, the dismantling and installation of the steering rack on the Toyota Corona / Caldina can be performed by every car owner, even without experience in repair work. The only thing you need for work is a tool and detailed instructions. If you follow the algorithm very carefully, listening to the recommendations, you can quickly complete the procedure and the result will be no worse than in the service.

This manual was written by the Toyota Corona/Caldina manufacturers, making it the best source of information available. You can read the material and accompanying illustrations here:

Group: Users
Posts: 827
Registration: 24.11.2010
Town: Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky
Auto: Toyota Rush 4WD
Gender: Male
Thanked: 202 times

Unscrewing the bolts securing the steering rack to the subframe 4 pcs

put a mark on the steering cardan before removing and unscrewing

unscrewing the steering rods with a gas wrench No. 1

removed steering rack from car

next photo of the disassembled steering rack

1. plastic bushing that breaks into the steering rack
2. the metal washer that holds the plastic sleeve in order to pull it out, it was necessary to first fill in WD and then drill it from the side with a thin drill to pull it out
3. manufactured wrench to unscrew the nut under No. 4
4. I unscrewed the nut with the stuffing box with a homemade wrench No. 3 (before unscrewing the nut, you must remove three clamps, otherwise you will ruin the thread on the nut, which I did safely and ruined the thread)
5. Clamping sleeve for a 17 hexagon to unscrew the adjusting sleeve, I used a bolt with a nut and a spanner wrench
6. anther that is put on shaft No. 7 and closes nut No. 4 so that dirt does not get in
7. the shaft that moves the steering rod No. 8
8. steering rod all rusty + some grease

further in the photo you can see the steering rod cleaned of rust and grease

photo of a plastic bushing and a metal washer in order to pull out the bushing, it was necessary to break it.
drilled

Date of registration 2013-05-25

So, a fairly common malfunction in a car is a sudden knock in the steering rack. For cars Toyota passo this phenomenon is quite common and belongs to the category of "childhood diseases".

We can offer three ways to solve this problem elementary without replacing the entire steering rack. You need to know that knocking in 95% of cases occurs due to wear of the copper-graphite bushing. Here is what is known from the practice of this issue.

To do this, in order to remove the worn bushing, it is necessary to disassemble the entire rail. The most difficult thing lies precisely in the disassembly-assembly of the steering rack, where two original keys may be required, which can be borrowed for a while from the universal set of keys of one of your friends. Give the removed bushing to any “adequate” turner who, according to the model, will be able to carve you a similar one from caprolon, you can even from fluoroplast. On average, the cost of such work costs 200-300 rubles.

In order not to look for special keys for parsing the rail, clamp the rail tightly in a vise so that the sleeve is pointing up. Now turn the rack down as far as possible. You will see a small gap between the bushing and the rack stem. Here you will need 5-7 pre-prepared metal studs about 20 cm long and no more than 1 mm in diameter.Next, take a thin tap and, with minimal effort, drive these studs into the resulting gap. Be careful when driving in the studs so as not to accidentally split the already fragile material of the sleeve. Thus, turning the rod of the rack, evenly distribute all the studs around the circumference of the inner hole of the bushing. Now the bushing will more tightly compress the rack rod (due to the studs), which will eliminate the need to replace the bushing and disassemble the entire steering rack. Such a simple manipulation of the bushing, which takes no more than 45 minutes, will be enough for you for about 80-100 thousand kilometers without knocking in the steering rack. Agree, this is a lot and is commensurate with the resource of the timing belt on most cars. This method of eliminating knocking in the steering rack is the simplest and most versatile for steering racks of any car brand. In addition, this method is quite reliable.

This method was tested by one of the owners of a Toyota car. passo, which assures that there is no need to grind a duplicate bushing due to the complete identity of this bushing with the bushing from an old Tavria car. Instead of special wrenches for disassembling the steering rack, he used a universal bicycle wrench with several horns. True, he had to sharpen this key a little. According to this car owner, the budget for the cost of eliminating a knock in the rail in this way amounted to 150 rubles.

Described ways to eliminate knocking in the steering rack of a car Toyota Passo does not claim to be the "ultimate truth" and can be recommended for owners of this car with a limited budget.

Quite expensive and time-consuming tuning with the replacement of the steering column of the Toyota Corolla 120 can be done both at a service station for Toyota cars, and in your own garage with your own hands. But, before embarking on "all serious", you need to make sure that the cause of extraneous knocks that give into the steering wheel and body is precisely the malfunction of the steering rack.

In the experience of motorists described in the article, there are also easier repair methods.

Turn off the engine and start rocking the steering wheel from side to side with a swing of about 5-7 cm. If at the same time tapping is heard, then the steering system mechanisms are the cause. However, if the knock resembles, as it were, a clatter somewhere very close under the steering wheel, then this is the sound from an electrical loop. You should not pay attention to him.

The Toyota Corolla steering mechanisms include a steering column, universal joints, as well as the steering rack itself with rods and tips. The failure of a single mechanism is best determined by elimination.

First you need to exclude the malfunction of the tips as the cause of the knock. Here you will need an assistant. When he gently swings the steering wheel to the sides, you need to alternately take the tips with your palm. In a faulty hinge with a lot of play that needs repair, the sound will be felt in the palm of your hand.

The steering column itself or the shaft extending from it to the rack practically fail very rarely. The steering rack suffers much more with high mileage. In addition, it rusts heavily from dampness and salt. This can also lead to premature failure.

One of the most cost-effective ways to restore the Toyota Corolla steering rack is to repair it without dismantling it. For this operation, you need to stock up on an M6 grease gun with a rubber cap for it and Mannol grease in the amount of 400 g. You also need to choose a suitable drill and tap for threading a grease gun.

The figure shows two oilers with caps, but for this repair you need to choose one. The one for which there is both a drill and a tap.

Next, you need to drive the car into the pit, organize good lighting at the location of the steering rack. In the rail itself, choose a place where you can get close with a drill, threading tool and syringe press.

In the chosen place, we first drill a hole, then we try to extract the chips and metal crumbs formed during drilling from it as much as possible. To do this, you can use a vacuum cleaner, and all kinds of wire hooks with strips of rags.

Moreover, we do the drilling very carefully so that after the passage of the rail body, the drill does not go deeper and does not damage other parts.

We cut the thread and screw the oiler into the hole. To prevent spontaneous unscrewing of the oiler during further operation, it is possible to apply a thread lock to its threaded part before screwing it in. This composition is sold in any auto shop. Buy enough of the smallest volume offered.

Next, using a syringe press, we fill the lubricant into the column.

The amount of lubricant for repairs was taken arbitrarily - 400 g. We wipe the surface of the rail next to the oiler, put a rubber cap on it. It is noticed that the steering wheel becomes a little heavier, but the rack knocks are no longer heard.

This repair can be considered universal for most cars, both for the Toyota Corolla 120, and for later models of the Toyota family and belonging to a higher class of models.

And yet, before the decision is made to drill the rack housing, you need to check for play two more crosses of the steering mechanism, which are located in the cabin under the steering wheel. Another source of knocking can be a telescopic pipe that regulates the reach of the steering wheel. Quite often, the knock comes from these parts, and it will be very disappointing when the knock does not stop during all the work on stuffing grease into the rail.

Sometimes crosses with large backlashes are installed directly at the factory, and they begin to knock after a short run. Despite the brand of the car, sometimes the bolts for fixing the crosses to the shaft can be the cause of knocking. They are often not locked, they turn away, knocks occur in these joints.

It is the steering racks of the Toyota Corolla that begin to make a knock and usually require repair only after a run of more than 100 thousand kilometers. First of all, the knock begins to be heard when the wheels hit the bumps in the roads - potholes and potholes. This sound is quite loud, but with a dull tint and does not give off to the steering wheel, vibration shocks are not felt by the hands.

For this type of Toyota Corolla 120 steering rack service, the recommended lubricant is AZMOL FIOL-1. If we compare it with Litol, then it wins greatly, as it belongs to NLGI 1-class and is characterized by low viscosity even at low temperatures. In addition, this lubricant does not contain molybdenum disulfides, which can adversely affect the polymer elements of the steering rack.