In detail: do-it-yourself Volga Cyber steering rack repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
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Good day to all!
Oh, and a lot of things I read here on the forum! In fact, I drew a lot of useful information for myself and now I also want to contribute. Everyone knows about the “steering rack disease” on stratuses / sebrings, so I want to share the methods of its treatment))) In general, I will write only in essence.
First, you need to lift the car on a lift and make a diagnosis of the suspension. A good auto mechanic will definitely have to spot broken tie rods. The fact is that ball, silent blocks, tips, etc., as a rule, change everything without problems, it is easy to find them. But the rods are sold assembled with a rail, it is problematic to get them and therefore many simply hammer on them. And this is very bad because the broken rods grind and kill the steering rack. Slowly but surely. In general, if you follow the rod ends and the rail (so that this line is rigid, without knocking), then the rail can take a very long time. I hope it's clear where I'm heading.
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Video (click to play). |
After diagnostics, you need to find the steering rods. Personally, I had to go to Moscow to the Kuntsevo car market. There I found traction at once - Taiwan 400r / pc, Canada - 950r / pc. I took Canadian ones - I don’t regret it.
I will not write about how to change the steering rods - there is nothing complicated there.
After such manipulations, my car went differently. I even felt that the steering wheel is bolted to the wheels! In addition, there was such a problem: you press the brake - the car drives to the left. This problem has passed - its cause is a broken left rod (my left one was badly broken in general). But the most important thing is that now you can forget about the steering one for a couple of years. NOTHING knocks.
P.S. if you change the traction, you can also change the bumpers at the same time, so that once again the similarity collapse is not done.
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Good day to all!
Oh, and a lot of things I read here on the forum! In fact, I drew a lot of useful information for myself and now I also want to contribute. Everyone knows about the “steering rack disease” on stratuses / sebrings, so I want to share the methods of its treatment))) In general, I will write only in essence.
First, you need to lift the car on a lift and make a diagnosis of the suspension. A good auto mechanic will definitely have to spot broken tie rods. The fact is that ball, silent blocks, tips, etc., as a rule, change everything without problems, it is easy to find them. But the rods are sold assembled with a rail, it is problematic to get them and therefore many simply hammer on them. And this is very bad because the broken rods grind and kill the steering rack. Slowly but surely. In general, if you follow the rod ends and the rail (so that this line is rigid, without knocking), then the rail can take a very long time. I hope it's clear where I'm heading.
After diagnostics, you need to find the steering rods. Personally, I had to go to Moscow to the Kuntsevo car market. There I found traction at once - Taiwan 400r / pc, Canada - 950r / pc.I took Canadian ones - I don’t regret it.
I will not write about how to change the steering rods - there is nothing complicated there.
After such manipulations, my car went differently. I even felt that the steering wheel is bolted to the wheels! In addition, there was such a problem: you press the brake - the car drives to the left. This problem has passed - its cause is a broken left rod (my left one was badly broken in general). But the most important thing is that now you can forget about the steering one for a couple of years. NOTHING knocks.
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Sergey 210371 07 Oct 2014
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ZaharovAV 07 Oct 2014
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Sergey 210371 09 Oct 2014
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otecpavel 09 Oct 2014
Sergey 210371, 09 October 2014 - 12:37, wrote:
How many rumors amaze our ears!
How much gossip eats away like a moth!
Rumor has it that everything will rise in price, absolutely
And especially table salt.
Like flies, here and there, rumors go from house to house
And the toothless old women carry them across the minds. (With)
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Sergey 210371 09 Oct 2014
otecpavel, 09 October 2014 - 14:15, wrote:
How many rumors amaze our ears!
How much gossip eats away like a moth!
Rumor has it that everything will rise in price, absolutely
And especially table salt.
Like flies, here and there, rumors go from house to house
And the toothless old women carry them across the minds. (With)
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otecpavel 09 Oct 2014
Sergey 210371, 09 October 2014 - 15:25, wrote:
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Old man Romualdych 09 Oct 2014
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otecpavel 09 Oct 2014
Vita911, 09 October 2014 - 19:10, wrote:
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otecpavel 10 Oct 2014
Old man Romualdych, 09 October 2014 - 21:03, wrote:
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Sergey 210371 October 10, 2014
Old man Romualdych, 10 October 2014 - 08:30, wrote:
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Sergey 210371 October 10, 2014
Old man Romualdych, 10 October 2014 - 09:38, wrote:
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Sergey 210371 October 14, 2014
Shurik samarin, 13 October 2014 - 23:37, wrote:
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ZaharovAV Oct 14, 2014
Old man Romualdych, 14 October 2014 - 08:38, wrote:
Sergey 210371, October 14, 2014 - 09:12, wrote:
Today I removed the rail (for restoration). We have a metal nut. I try to turn the shaft, it lends itself easily to the right and left. I pulled up this nut by a quarter of a turn and the rail can no longer be turned. I'll post a short video a little later.
P.S. And the question is, however. Old man Romualdych, where does such an unambiguous and principled position come from? Have you twisted this fucking nut in your hands and watched how it affects the behavior of the rail? I just don’t understand, I’ve tightened up, but everyone else has a dick once, right ?!
Sergei, wait with conclusions, but about “it looks like a repair”, it has long been known that metal nuts are on the sibers from the factory.
Guys tell me who had such a situation with the rail, how to cure it? ((
GAZ Cyber 2010, gasoline engine 2.4 l., 143 l. sec., front-wheel drive, manual transmission - DIY repair
Look for a normal steering rack restoration service. Take it off to them too. In the steering rack, guide bushings wear out, where the gear-shaft moves. He knocks when moving. These bushings change. After normal specialists, another 80-100 thousand mileage should be enough.
I have a problem similar to yours. When you roll over deep pits, it makes a knock knock. I thought the thrust, climbed to change, but she is alive. But changed anyway
... The knock did not disappear.
Exactly where to dig? on the pits you go knocking goes. Steering wheels are normal, ball is normal, bushings, bushings and all kinds of entrails are normal. But something knocks on the bumps and holes. They can't find it on diagnostics.
I was looking for information on this and realized that this is such a feature of the rails on the sibers, and everything is in order at the sebrings. It remains to come to terms if not too much)
Aren't we the same Reiki and Sebring?
the same, but I don’t remember what exactly the sibers suffer from. Maybe someone in the know, correct me if not right.
like on stratus somewhere I read there is a sensor on the rail. at high speed so that the steering wheel is heavy.heard nothing else.
Exactly where to dig? on the pits you go knocking goes. Steering wheels are normal, ball is normal, bushings, bushings and all kinds of entrails are normal. But something knocks on the bumps and holes. They can't find it on diagnostics.
And the steering column lower cardan? When he knocks, few service providers will say that this is not rake ...
How to check it? I only know how to check the universal joint shafts. Is it the same or what?
Here is the same cross, if it dangles, there is the slightest backlash, then it will knock on the gravel road ...
And the steering column lower cardan? When he knocks, few service providers will say that this is not rake ...
Is it really possible to buy a cardan separately? There is an order number.
I saw somewhere, the price is horse, it's easier to pick up and repress the GMB crosspiece ...
Exactly where to dig? on the pits you go knocking goes. Steering wheels are normal, ball is normal, bushings, bushings and all kinds of entrails are normal. But something knocks on the bumps and holes. They can't find it on diagnostics.
Here it is necessary to determine exactly whether it is a rail or not ... the steering tip can knock, the steering rod, the steering column cardan can knock, and of course the rail itself ...
Removal of damage online. Hemorrhoid treatment on the Internet.
Go to the service, let them check everything and tighten the rail.
There is a controversial situation, on the right side of the rail, where the connection of the traction to the rail is a little backlash ... and the fig knows whether to change the rail, or to ride like that ...
Change the rods and the tips right away. It happened, I solved the problem by replacing the rods and tips
knock when? when turning or constantly?
If you drive on gravel, or load on the left or right side. When turning, no.
Professional and quick repair of the Volga Cyber (Siber) and GAZ 3111 steering rack with or without removal and installation.
Elimination of knocks, leaks, backlashes, snacks.
On GAZ 3111, the pumps are being moved successfully. Cyber does not repair the pump. However, some power steering pump assemblies are available.
For members of auto clubs and car dealers, a discount on Repair of a steering rack Volga Cyber (Volga Siber) 20% with a sticker or a club card.
The steering rack installed on the Volga Cyber inherited from the Chrysler Sebring 2000 model year
However, the prototype had several engine options and not all Chrysler Sebring steering racks fit the Ciber. Below is a list of the original Sebring steering rack numbers:
04764-402AD; 04764-403AD; 04764-920AC; 04764-995AE; 04879-419AA; 05093-808AA; 05093-819AA.
Of these, only the number 05093-808AA or its analog Cardone 22-352 is suitable for the Volga Cyber.
The cost of new steering racks for the Volga Cyber starts from 20 thousand rubles for the original Chrysler and from 14 thousand rubles for the analogue of Cardone. used cost units starts from 6000 rubles.
Unfortunately, in addition to the positive qualities, the Volga Cyber steering rack also adopted all the options for the usual malfunctions of the steering racks. Among them: corrosion of shafts and even teeth, wear of the central tooth, knocks and backlash in bushings, cracker and cracker casing, as well as such a malfunction as wear of the distributor crankcase. The last malfunction might not have happened, just as there is none on Japanese rails.
In each case, everyone decides in their own way. If you have 14 thousand rubles, then why not buy a new rail. But it will still need to be removed and delivered, as well as it will need to be ordered in the store and wait. At the same time, change the oil seals - it will cost half the price to repair the existing rail.
Purchase a used steering rack. - the event is risky. The likelihood that it has hidden flaws is quite high. The seller does not necessarily tell the truth or give a guarantee, and most of the faults from the outside are not at all noticeable. So for example, in addition to leaks from under the oil seals, other malfunctions cannot be detected without special diagnostics. Among them are the violation of the geometry of the shafts, the steering rack housing (for example, after a minor impact), corrosion, backlash and wear of the distributor housing. No matter how you have to buy two used racks in order for at least one to work.
Gidrolab recommends repairing steering racks. In this case, the rail can be disassembled and you can see the malfunctions with your own eyes. You can limit yourself to repairing only these specific problems. We do not charge money for repairing non-existent or imaginary faults and do not average prices. The Gidrolab company adheres to a system when everyone pays only for their own faults, and not others.
The quality of work in the Gidrolab company is not inferior to that of the factory. And the price is the lowest.
have they already started to produce the Volga with a steering rack
Yes, they are called Cyber.
instead of the existing control system bipod pendulum of the normal steering rack
No experience. You can try to install a normal trapezoid and a power steering gearbox from the Inca (especially a gearbox), and a rail. you better put the normal engine first;)
Instead of medium tie rod.
There is not much space under the crankcase, and the safety of the unit in this position is very doubtful.
And the transmission from the steering shaft? Three knees with gimbals?
And the comparison is incorrect. IMHO.
Quite correct - a well-designed German car and a box on wheels. So with the Volga there will be the same nonsense - a lot of work will lead to an inconspicuous result.
What's the point of losing weight?
I was taken aback by this question 🙁
Why do girls lose weight before summer?
Added after 2 minutes 20 seconds
Volga is an imposing car and does not like to play checkers
And exactly the same in size and weight am (BMW or Mercedes) and imposing, and knows how to play checkers.
Why do girls lose weight before summer?
Girls want to get married! : haha:
And yet - what will the loss of 4-5 kg give? (because the rail is also not made of polystyrene). For example, my engine is 25 kg lighter than the ZMZ 406, and what should this lead to?
Added after 1 minute 45 seconds
And exactly the same in size and weight (BMW or Merc)
Reiki only? 😉
This is after all a change in the design of the steering.
The author of the topic recognizes this problem and considers it solvable.
Open this topic, we will discuss.
I thought you knew something, some secret of the benefits of a little weight loss. 😉
what's the point? The Volga keeps the flow rate without problems.
I have a “personal enemy” 😉 Pendulum lever 🙂 Consider me sick in the head: whistle2:
Added after 2 minutes 24 seconds
I thought you knew something, some secret to the benefits of a little weight loss.
The hen pecks by the grain.
This secret of benefits is known to all motor sportsmen: haha:
offtop:
"Personal enemy" Pendulum arm: haha:
rhymes, by the way! This is not an enemy, it is a general problem of the quality of spare parts for the Volga. You have one such "enemy", and I have as many as 6 small villains - ball fingers.
Added after 1 minute 2 seconds
This secret of benefits is known to all motor sportsmen.
Well, such and such a secret, and I know. Only here is the Volga and motorsport. bayan: a long time ago.
The gearbox of the hydraulic power steering wheel (steering rack) is responsible for organizing the turns of the vehicle. This mechanism is an integral part both for cars with hydraulic power steering and for cars without hydraulics. The steering column serves as a connecting element between the steering wheel and the wheelbase, so its role in the safe operation of the vehicle cannot be overestimated.
The parts of the steering rack wear out quickly enough, because take on the main part of the load that is transferred to the car during cornering, when hitting any type of obstacle, when the wheelbase hits potholes and holes in the roadway. Do-it-yourself steering rack repair may often be required.
To prevent failure of the steering rack, a technical inspection of the vehicle should be periodically carried out, which allows you to identify all faults at an early stage.
The main signs indicating the appearance of deviations in the operation of the gearbox:
- The presence of knocks in the gearbox, transmitted through the steering wheel of the vehicle;
- An increase in the effort that the driver needs to apply to the steering wheel to turn it;
- Extraneous noise arising during the operation of the hydraulic booster pump;
- The presence of a backlash in the steering rack, which is felt when turning the steering wheel;
- Traces of oil leaking from the hydraulic power steering.
Steering rack flowing with power steering
Any of the listed symptoms signals a malfunction that must be eliminated immediately. Lack of timely work can adversely affect the operational life of the mechanism, up to its complete failure.
If a problem is found, the car can be handed over to a car service specialist or the steering rack can be repaired with your own hands. It should be noted that self-elimination of defects requires certain knowledge about the device of the vehicle and some tools necessary for disassembling the steering rack.
Details
To fully repair the steering rack, you should have the following spare parts and tools on hand:
a special repair kit consisting of all the parts necessary for the steering rack;
- corrugation;
- gear shaft;
- bearing;
- lubricating mixture.
- octahedron key at 17;
- tools for mounting and dismounting bearings;
- set of wrenches.
For the highest quality repairs, it is advisable to use an overpass or inspection pit.
First of all, the vehicle should be driven onto an overpass or inspection pit, after which, with the help of jacks, the vehicle should be raised and the engine protection (if present) and wheels should be dismantled. Next, you need to remove the heat-insulating plate of the gearbox and unscrew the nuts of the ends of the steering rods, which are knocked out of the ears with a hammer. The next stage consists of disconnecting the pipeline followed by a liquid removal procedure. To do this, you need to start the car engine, and then make several turns with the steering wheel in different directions. The process is completed by removing the fasteners located on the hydraulic power steering gearbox. After dismantling, the mechanism is securely fixed in a vice and cleaned of dust and dirt, which inevitably accumulate on parts during the movement of the car.
Photo instructions for dismantling:
The protection is unscrewed
Two tie rod bolts
The rods are removed
Unscrew the fastening of the clamps
Loosen the tie bolt
- Removing the rubber boot.
- Dismantle the intermediate shaft by removing the lock nut holding the part.
- Removing the lock nut securing the rack shaft clamping cup.
- Dismantling the shaft with bearing. To do this, the main shaft system is knocked out of the pre-fixed intermediate shaft with gentle blows.
- Dismantling the adjusting unit.
- Removing the adjusting glass.
- Removing the pressure piston.
Dismantling the steering rack
After the completion of work on the disassembly of the steering rack, all the constituent elements of the mechanism are thoroughly washed from the oil and dirt deposited on them. Then the parts are subject to a thorough visual inspection for the presence of mechanical damage arising during the operation of the vehicle. Parts with serious defects must be replaced with new ones. In some cases, due to severe damage, it is advisable to completely replace the steering rack. Assemble the steering rack in the reverse order.
There are no significant differences between repairing the steering rack of cars with and without hydraulic power steering. Only bushings and compositions of fluids used to lubricate parts of the mechanism will be different.
After carrying out all the above-described work, it is recommended to carry out the diagnostic procedure for wheel alignment.
The total time it takes to repair the steering rack varies from two to three hours.These repair work refers to work of an average degree of complexity, which, with certain knowledge and skills, it is quite possible to carry out even a novice car enthusiast who has patience and perseverance in achieving a specific task.
Installing the support sleeve
Cut the rubber bands
Remove the retaining ring from the gear shaft
Needle bearing is knocked out
Useful video for repairing the steering rack VAZ 21099:
The generation of Volga cars begins in 1956, when the first GAZ 21 model rolled off the assembly line of the automobile plant. All Volgas were similar to each other - rear wheel drive with a classic rear axle, pivot front suspension, manual gearbox, a minimum of electronics. And only the "Volga Cyber" is fundamentally different from all previous models. 
But this is not surprising - there is practically nothing from the "Volga" in this car, the car is almost completely a "clone" of the American car Chrysler Sebring.
GAZ "Volga Cyber" - the same "Serbing", but the car has different optics and bumpers. Also, local designers have strengthened the front suspension, and there are practically no other differences. The maintainability of the car is at a fairly good level - there are a lot of spare parts on auto dismantlers, the owners of Cyber are completely satisfied with the car - it is comfortable and reliable.
The car was discontinued back in 2010, and you can buy Cyber only handheld.
Variant of the design of the car Volga Cyber
The Siber body is quite reliable - corrosion, unlike models 3110 or 31105, may not appear earlier than after 7 or 8 years, but original body parts are expensive. The Cyber body has to be repaired more often after an accident, and not because of the appearance of rust. You have to wait a long time for custom body parts, but fortunately, there are non-original spare parts for Chrysler, and many inexpensive parts are sold for disassembly.
What "sores" are mainly found in the "Chrysler" Volga?
Chrysler 2.4L ready-to-install engine for Volga Siber
To tighten or replace it, you have to remove the engine sump in any case. But crawling up to the crankcase is not difficult, and the job can be done in about three hours. The timing belt, like the water pump, is not very easy to change, and these parts need to be replaced at least once every 100-150 thousand km.
This is what the Volga Cyber timing belt looks like
There are even fewer complaints about the manual gearbox, which has been installed on the Cyber since April 2010, than about the automatic transmission.
