Old man Romualdych, 14 October 2014 - 08:38, wrote:
Sergey 210371, October 14, 2014 - 09:12, wrote:
Today I removed the rail (for restoration). We have a metal nut. I try to turn the shaft, it lends itself easily to the right and left. I pulled up this nut by a quarter of a turn and the rail can no longer be turned. I'll post a short video a little later.
Sergei, wait with conclusions, but about “it looks like a repair”, it has long been known that metal nuts are on the sibers from the factory.
Guys tell me who had such a situation with the rail, how to cure it? ((
GAZ Cyber 2010, gasoline engine 2.4 l., 143 l. sec., front-wheel drive, manual transmission - DIY repair
Look for a normal steering rack restoration service. Take it off to them too. In the steering rack, guide bushings wear out, where the gear-shaft moves. He knocks when moving. These bushings change. After normal specialists, another 80-100 thousand mileage should be enough.
I have a problem similar to yours. When you roll over deep pits, it makes a knock knock. I thought the thrust, climbed to change, but she is alive. But changed anyway
Exactly where to dig? on the pits you go knocking goes. Steering wheels are normal, ball is normal, bushings, bushings and all kinds of entrails are normal. But something knocks on the bumps and holes. They can't find it on diagnostics.
I was looking for information on this and realized that this is such a feature of the rails on the sibers, and everything is in order at the sebrings. It remains to come to terms if not too much)
Aren't we the same Reiki and Sebring?
the same, but I don’t remember what exactly the sibers suffer from. Maybe someone in the know, correct me if not right.
like on stratus somewhere I read there is a sensor on the rail. at high speed so that the steering wheel is heavy. heard nothing else.
Exactly where to dig? on the pits you go knocking goes. Steering wheels are normal, ball is normal, bushings, bushings and all kinds of entrails are normal. But something knocks on the bumps and holes. They can't find it on diagnostics.
And the steering column lower cardan? When he knocks, few service providers will say that this is not rake ...
How to check it? I only know how to check the universal joint shafts. Is it the same or what?
Here is the same cross, if it dangles, there is the slightest backlash, then it will knock on the gravel road ...
And the steering column lower cardan? When he knocks, few service providers will say that this is not rake ...
Is it really possible to buy a cardan separately? There is an order number.
I saw somewhere, the price is horse, it's easier to pick up and repress the GMB crosspiece ...
Exactly where to dig? on the pits you go knocking goes. Steering wheels are normal, ball is normal, bushings, bushings and all kinds of entrails are normal. But something knocks on the bumps and holes. They can't find it on diagnostics.
Here it is necessary to determine exactly whether it is a rack or not ... the steering tip can knock, the steering rod, the steering column cardan can knock, and of course the rack itself ...
Removal of damage online. Hemorrhoid treatment on the Internet.
There is a controversial situation, on the right side of the rail, where the connection of the traction to the rail is a little backlash ... and the fig knows whether to change the rail, or to ride like that ...
Change the rods and the tips right away. It happened, I solved the problem by replacing the rods and tips
knock when? when turning or constantly?
If you drive on gravel, or load on the left or right side. When turning, no.
Professional and quick repair of the Volga Cyber (Siber) and GAZ 3111 steering rack with or without removal and installation.
Elimination of knocks, leaks, backlashes, snacks.
On GAZ 3111, the pumps are being moved successfully. Cyber does not repair the pump. However, some power steering pump assemblies are available.
For members of auto clubs and car dealers, a discount on Repair of a steering rack Volga Cyber (Volga Siber) 20% with a sticker or a club card.
The steering rack installed on the Volga Cyber inherited from the Chrysler Sebring 2000 model year
However, the prototype had several engine options and not all Chrysler Sebring steering racks fit the Ciber. Below is a list of the original Sebring steering rack numbers:
The cost of new steering racks for the Volga Cyber starts from 20 thousand rubles for the original Chrysler and from 14 thousand rubles for the analogue of Cardone. used cost units starts from 6000 rubles.
Unfortunately, in addition to the positive qualities, the Volga Cyber steering rack also adopted all the options for the usual malfunctions of the steering racks. Among them: corrosion of shafts and even teeth, wear of the central tooth, knocks and backlash in bushings, cracker and cracker casing, as well as such a malfunction as wear of the distributor crankcase. The last malfunction might not have happened, just as there is none on Japanese rails.
In each case, everyone decides in their own way. If you have 14 thousand rubles, then why not buy a new rail. But it will still need to be removed and delivered, as well as it will need to be ordered in the store and wait. At the same time, change the oil seals - it will cost half the price to repair the existing rail.
Purchase a used steering rack. - the event is risky. The likelihood that it has hidden flaws is quite high. The seller does not necessarily tell the truth or give a guarantee, and most of the faults from the outside are not at all noticeable. So for example, in addition to leaks from under the oil seals, other malfunctions cannot be detected without special diagnostics. Among them are the violation of the geometry of the shafts, the steering rack housing (for example, after a minor impact), corrosion, backlash and wear of the distributor housing. No matter how you have to buy two used racks in order for at least one to work.
Gidrolab recommends repairing steering racks. In this case, the rail can be disassembled and you can see the malfunctions with your own eyes. You can limit yourself to repairing only these specific problems. We do not charge money for repairing non-existent or imaginary faults and do not average prices. The Gidrolab company adheres to a system when everyone pays only for their own faults, and not others.
The quality of work in the Gidrolab company is not inferior to that of the factory. And the price is the lowest.
have they already started to produce the Volga with a steering rack
instead of the existing control system bipod pendulum of the normal steering rack
Instead of medium tie rod.
There is not much space under the crankcase, and the safety of the unit in this position is very doubtful.
And the comparison is incorrect. IMHO.
Quite correct - a well-designed German car and a box on wheels. So with the Volga there will be the same nonsense - a lot of work will lead to an inconspicuous result.
What's the point of losing weight?
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Why do girls lose weight before summer?
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This is after all a change in the design of the steering.
Open this topic, we will discuss.
what's the point? The Volga keeps the flow rate without problems.
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offtop:
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The gearbox of the hydraulic power steering wheel (steering rack) is responsible for organizing the turns of the vehicle. This mechanism is an integral part both for cars with hydraulic power steering and for cars without hydraulics. The steering column serves as a connecting element between the steering wheel and the wheelbase, so its role in the safe operation of the vehicle cannot be overestimated.
The parts of the steering rack wear out quickly enough, because take on the main part of the load that is transferred to the car during cornering, when hitting any type of obstacle, when the wheelbase hits potholes and holes in the roadway. Do-it-yourself steering rack repair may often be required.
To prevent failure of the steering rack, a technical inspection of the vehicle should be periodically carried out, which allows you to identify all faults at an early stage.
The main signs indicating the appearance of deviations in the operation of the gearbox:
The presence of knocks in the gearbox, transmitted through the steering wheel of the vehicle;
An increase in the effort that the driver needs to apply to the steering wheel to turn it;
Extraneous noise arising during the operation of the hydraulic booster pump;
The presence of a backlash in the steering rack, which is felt when turning the steering wheel;
Traces of oil leaking from the hydraulic power steering.
Steering rack flowing with power steering
Any of the listed symptoms signals a malfunction that must be eliminated immediately. Lack of timely work can adversely affect the operational life of the mechanism, up to its complete failure.
If a problem is found, the car can be handed over to a car service specialist or the steering rack can be repaired with your own hands. It should be noted that self-elimination of defects requires certain knowledge about the device of the vehicle and some tools necessary for disassembling the steering rack.
Details
To fully repair the steering rack, you should have the following spare parts and tools on hand:
a special repair kit consisting of all the parts necessary for the steering rack;
corrugation;
gear shaft;
bearing;
lubricating mixture.
octahedron key at 17;
tools for mounting and dismounting bearings;
set of wrenches.
For the highest quality repairs, it is advisable to use an overpass or inspection pit.
First of all, the vehicle should be driven onto an overpass or inspection pit, after which, with the help of jacks, the vehicle should be raised and the engine protection (if present) and wheels should be dismantled. Next, you need to remove the heat-insulating plate of the gearbox and unscrew the nuts of the ends of the steering rods, which are knocked out of the ears with a hammer. The next stage consists of disconnecting the pipeline followed by a liquid removal procedure. To do this, you need to start the car engine, and then make several turns with the steering wheel in different directions. The process is completed by removing the fasteners located on the hydraulic power steering gearbox. After dismantling, the mechanism is securely fixed in a vice and cleaned of dust and dirt, which inevitably accumulate on parts during the movement of the car.
Photo instructions for dismantling:
The protection is unscrewed
Two tie rod bolts
The rods are removed
Unscrew the fastening of the clamps
Loosen the tie bolt
Removing the rubber boot.
Dismantle the intermediate shaft by removing the lock nut holding the part.
Removing the lock nut securing the rack shaft clamping cup.
Dismantling the shaft with bearing. To do this, the main shaft system is knocked out of the pre-fixed intermediate shaft with gentle blows.
Dismantling the adjusting unit.
Removing the adjusting glass.
Removing the pressure piston.
Dismantling the steering rack
After the completion of work on the disassembly of the steering rack, all the constituent elements of the mechanism are thoroughly washed from the oil and dirt deposited on them. Then the parts are subject to a thorough visual inspection for the presence of mechanical damage arising during the operation of the vehicle. Parts with serious defects must be replaced with new ones. In some cases, due to severe damage, it is advisable to completely replace the steering rack. Assemble the steering rack in the reverse order.
There are no significant differences between repairing the steering rack of cars with and without hydraulic power steering. Only bushings and compositions of fluids used to lubricate parts of the mechanism will be different.
After carrying out all the above-described work, it is recommended to carry out the diagnostic procedure for wheel alignment.
The total time it takes to repair the steering rack varies from two to three hours.These repair work refers to work of an average degree of complexity, which, with certain knowledge and skills, it is quite possible to carry out even a novice car enthusiast who has patience and perseverance in achieving a specific task.
Installing the support sleeve
Cut the rubber bands
Remove the retaining ring from the gear shaft
Needle bearing is knocked out
Useful video for repairing the steering rack VAZ 21099:
VIDEO The generation of Volga cars begins in 1956, when the first GAZ 21 model rolled off the assembly line of the automobile plant. All Volgas were similar to each other - rear wheel drive with a classic rear axle, pivot front suspension, manual gearbox, a minimum of electronics. And only the "Volga Cyber" is fundamentally different from all previous models.
GAZ "Volga Cyber" - the same "Serbing", but the car has different optics and bumpers. Also, local designers have strengthened the front suspension, and there are practically no other differences. The maintainability of the car is at a fairly good level - there are a lot of spare parts on auto dismantlers, the owners of Cyber are completely satisfied with the car - it is comfortable and reliable.
The car was discontinued back in 2010, and you can buy Cyber only handheld.
Variant of the design of the car Volga Cyber
The Siber body is quite reliable - corrosion, unlike models 3110 or 31105, may not appear earlier than after 7 or 8 years, but original body parts are expensive. The Cyber body has to be repaired more often after an accident, and not because of the appearance of rust. You have to wait a long time for custom body parts, but fortunately, there are non-original spare parts for Chrysler, and many inexpensive parts are sold for disassembly.
What "sores" are mainly found in the "Chrysler" Volga?
Chrysler 2.4L ready-to-install engine for Volga Siber
To tighten or replace it, you have to remove the engine sump in any case. But crawling up to the crankcase is not difficult, and the job can be done in about three hours. The timing belt, like the water pump, is not very easy to change, and these parts need to be replaced at least once every 100-150 thousand km.
This is what the Volga Cyber timing belt looks like
There are even fewer complaints about the manual gearbox, which has been installed on the Cyber since April 2010, than about the automatic transmission.
VIDEO
The electrical part of American cars is not without problems, there are also characteristic malfunctions. The electronic control of the automatic transmission is considered a weak point. The electronic unit starts to "slow down" and "think", it is almost impossible to repair the control unit, the problem is solved by replacement.
There are no non-original automatic transmission control units, new "brains" cost a lot of money. But it is very good that there are showdowns of American cars - spare parts for them are sold inexpensively, and the necessary ECU can be bought several times cheaper.
Power windows often fail, due to low-quality fuel, it gets clogged with dirt and the electric petrol pump fails. Fuel filters do not always help - fine particles still get into the electric motor.
Scheme of an electric petrol pump for the volga siber
The GAZ employees hid the battery so that you won't find it right away - it is located in the front left side of the body, almost in the front bumper. It is inconvenient and difficult to take out the battery, moreover, the terminals on it are on the side. There are two more disadvantages of this arrangement:
The battery is damaged in an accident immediately, even with a not very strong impact into this corner;
Due to such a specific arrangement of the terminals, it will not be possible to install a standard rechargeable battery on the Cyber, you will have to install only the same special battery. Although some car owners still manage to connect a standard battery, it is worth the pain.
The same problems occur with the electrical wiring on the Cyber as on any other car.
The front suspension on the "Cyber" is two-link independent - there is no such massive rigid beam that all the "Volgas" had had for half a century before. The rear suspension is also completely different - it is multi-link. Unlike the GAZ 3110 and Gaz 31105 models, the Volga Cyber is front-wheel drive, and there is nothing to buzz in the rear suspension, but it is no longer possible to fix the GAZ Cyber so easily, and the Volgovodi are quite upset about this.
Brake Caliper for Cyber
If the ball joint for 31105 costs from 250 to 500 rubles, then the lower ball joint for Sebring costs from 2000 to 4800 rubles, and at the same time it is often sold on order, that is, you have to wait for the delivery of the part.
Again, disassembly helps out here - used original spare parts often have a decent resource and can serve for a long time.
Usually we estimate the laboriousness of car maintenance by comparing them with the Lada-Priora, but here the starting point will be the previous GAZ model - the well-known Volga, which was the hero of this heading in ZR, 2007, No. 7.
The first question of a car enthusiast who opened the hood: where is the battery ?! If you follow the power wires, the ends of which are prudently brought out to the fuse box and the left mudguard (in case you have to "light up"), then you will be surprised: the battery was hidden behind the bumper. We remove the left front wheel and the front part of the wheel arch liner, for which we take out the cores, and then the bodies of the seven pistons, and unscrew three more screws. Here is a battery, and a rather rare type - with terminals on the side.
Of course, first we disconnect the "minus" and only then the "plus" - so as not to accidentally short-circuit it to "ground". Unscrew the nut and bolt of the pressure plate and take out the battery. Easy to say, try this exercise! It is unlikely that such a layout solution will be approved by those who live in cold regions and have to bring the battery home at night so that in the morning its capacity will be enough for a cold start.
Let's try to change the pads. Prying off with a screwdriver, remove the tension spring and turn out both caliper guides with a "7" hexagon. Having removed it from the bracket, we remove the outer block from the last, and the inner one from the piston, where it is held by a three-fingered plate. We remove the brake disc after we unscrew the bracket fasteners - two bolts under the key "17".
With the rear brakes it is not more difficult: by unscrewing the guide bolts with a key "13", we take out the bracket. We fix the outer block in it with a three-fingered plate, and insert the inner one, like in the front mechanism, with a similar plate into the piston. To replace the parking brake pads, we remove the disc drum, which sits freely on the studs. If you only need to adjust the handbrake, then the mechanism can be left unassembled. Having tucked in, remove the rubber plug from the brake shield and turn the nut of the sliding bar with a screwdriver until it lightly touches the drum pads. We orient ourselves by ear, rotating the jacked up wheel.
We change the oils in the units: for the drain plug of the engine you need a key "for 13", and for the filter, if it does not go by hand, any puller is suitable - there is enough space. If you are afraid that with such an arrangement of the filter it will inadvertently be pierced by a stone that flew out from under the wheel, cover it with some kind of protection, for example, a piece of the camera.
We suck the oil out of the machine with a syringe through the dipstick tube, because there is no drain plug in the unit.Using the "10" wrench, unscrew the bolts securing the pallet and, after draining the remaining grease, change the filter. When assembling, we install a new gasket, and if it was not there (this option is also possible), we put the pallet on the sealant.
The factory does not provide for the replacement of the fuel filter, but the Chrysler spare parts catalog lists such a part (about $ 56) as part of the fuel pump. Obviously, changing it at least once every 90 thousand km, as required by the regulations for many foreign cars, will be cheaper than a complete pump ($ 370). In it, as practice shows, due to a filter clogged with dirt, an electric motor can burn out.
To replace the pump, you will have to remove the gas tank, because, alas, there is no hatch in the floor under the rear seat. We believe it fair to lower the mark for this operation.
But it turned out to be easy to change the air filter or candles, as well as the coolant. There is a drain plug on the radiator, which can be reached from above, and under it is a hole in the bumper, thanks to which the liquid comes out in an even stream. If there were a faucet on the engine block, and not a plug for a hexagon "8", then it would be great at all. Fill in fresh fluid after replacing the timing belt.
First, we remove the poly V-belt of the ancillary drive, but getting close to the automatic tensioner in order to take it off and loosen the belt is very difficult in such tightness.
Let's clear the passage from "unnecessary" details. We unscrew the fasteners of the power steering tank and, lifting it until the antennae comes out of the groove in the expansion tank, we take it to the side. Next, we unscrew the bolt securing the air conditioner condenser to the expansion tank and a couple of bolts that secure the tank itself to the mudguard. Having disconnected the steam pipe, we take it out, bending around obstacles and trying not to splash antifreeze.
The path to the automatic tensioner is now clear. But inserting a square of a standard wrench or ratchet into it to move the roller in accordance with the designers' intention does not give a closely located spar.
A piece of a square half-inch profile 10-15 mm long will help out. We insert one end into the movable sector of the tensioner, and on the other we put on an open-end wrench. Submitting it clockwise, we combine the holes in the sectors where we insert the check, for example, a nail. Next, we remove the plastic mudguard of the engine compartment, taking out the cores, and then the bodies of ten caps, and, removing from the pulleys, we take out the belt.
Another way is to dislodge the tensioner by pulling on the branch between the pulleys in the same way as pulling the bowstring, and slide the belt off the nearest pulley. The reverse process is no less tricky: putting on a belt on all pulleys, except for one, the tensioner is shifted with a mounting blade, achieving the formation of the necessary loop, which is thrown over the last pulley. Keep in mind: these techniques require skill and accuracy, otherwise you will scar the rollers or tear the belt itself.
Further advancement to the timing drive is hindered by the air conditioner tubes - they enter the evaporator very nearby. It is dangerous to bend the pipes - they can burst, and if they are disconnected, then it will be necessary to charge the system with refrigerant. Therefore, we unscrew the top cover of the timing case and take it out very carefully.
Having removed the crankshaft pulley bolt, we combine the marks (on the camshaft toothed pulleys, they should be strictly opposite each other), after which, having turned the bolt out to the end, remove the pulley, and then the lower casing cover. We did not accidentally leave the cooling system without fluid until we replaced the timing belt, since it was the time to remove the tubes to the heater - they do not allow removing the power unit support. But before unscrewing the bolts of its fastening, support the motor with a jack through a wooden spacer or hang it by the eye bar.
In garage conditions, the first is preferable, since after removing the support and the middle cover of the timing case to which it is attached, you need to raise the power unit as far as communications will allow (usually 10–20 cm). Otherwise, because of the same ill-fated spar, you cannot get to the tension roller.
We change it, like the run-in, unconditionally, and carefully check the pump - even a slight play or roll of the bearing balls serve as indications for replacing the assembly. The tensioner roller is equipped with a semiautomatic device, which must be preloaded. Let's combine the marks on the movable and fixed sectors, and then he himself will hold on to the belt as expected.
Although the assembly is more fun and the rest of the consumables change without much difficulty, Cyber plunged into despondency. No, the car itself, of course, is good and modern, but if we correlate the laboriousness of its maintenance with the scarcity of service in the provinces, it is easy to imagine the gloomy faces of those owners who are accustomed to repairing their Volga on their own.
Video (click to play).
We are grateful to the company "AVTOMIR on Dmitrovka" for help in preparing the material.
