Do-it-yourself steering rack repair toyota avensis 1998

Preventive inspection of the steering rack is the best way to keep it working and avoid costly repairs. Unfortunately, not all Toyota Avensis owners are aware of this or try not to forget to carry out regular diagnostics.

Possible malfunctions in the operation of the steering mechanism may indicate the following factors:

• difficulties experienced while driving;
• trace of oil under the car;
• noise accompanied by vibration;
• rod corrosion;
• the appearance of backlash rails;
• leak around seals.

The need for repair can only be determined by a specialist and an experienced driver. As for the replacement, although this measure will lead to big expenses, it will allow you to forget about the steering rack for several years for sure. Why exactly? The fact is that problems in the operation of the mechanism probably affected all related details. Repair will allow you to get rid of the problem for a while. In a few months, she will again declare herself and require new cash injections.

Repair and replacement costs may vary. In many services, the price of both types of work is at least $65. Despite the tangible complexity, removal and subsequent installation can be performed by the owner himself.

Tools are likely to be found on the shelves in the garage, and the necessary information, including important notes and recommendations, can be taken from this manual:

Symptoms: knocking in the steering rack, which manifests itself when driving through small bumps (a disease of all Corollas with electric power steering).
The diagnosis of servicemen is the replacement of the rail (in practice, it helps out for a short time and costs a lot).
Solution: replacing everything in the rail that can knock. And there are only two places in such rails - the adjusting unit and in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe sleeve located at the opposite end of the rail (in the case of right-hand drive cars, the left side of the rail). And since nothing needs to be changed in the adjusting unit, the entire repair comes down to replacing the factory bushing with a custom-made one.

Patients: Will VS 2002 1.5 L (electric power steering!)

We climb into the pedal assembly and remove the protection from the steering shaft, it is unscrewed by hand, it can be removed easily:

We completely unscrew the bolt that secures the intermediate shaft to the cross:

IMPORTANT! Put the wheels straight, remove the key from the ignition lock, lock the steering wheel. This is done in order to prevent, after removing the rack, turning the steering wheel by more revolutions than it should be. Otherwise, a break in the wires of the “snail” of the airbag and a malfunction of the latter is inevitable.

We hang out in front of the car and take off the wheels (the front ones are enough).

Next comes the removal of the steering rack. It has been proven from our own experience that it is possible to unscrew the fasteners of the rail without additional disassembly, but pulling out the rail is very time consuming. Do not waste time, twist the stretcher - save a lot of time and effort.

But first - the steering tips: we take out the cotter pin, unscrew the nut, with a sharp biting blow of the hammer we hit the place indicated below, and the finger falls out by itself (we do it with both sides

We unscrew the subframe, 4 bolts to the body, 3 bolts in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe rear engine mount and 3 nuts in the same place.

After that, the subframe, along with the rail, gently (if you planned to unscrew the last bolt correctly) lowers and hangs on the levers and anti-roll bar. Everything - the rail is in full view: unscrew:

We remove and carry to the workbench

Let's start disassembling it:
1) Remove the rubber boot.

2) We take the key for 12 and unscrew the bolt indicated in the photo.

3) Remove the intermediate shaft.

4) Unscrew the locknut (we used a gas wrench)

5) Unscrew the clamping glass of the rack shaft.

6) Then we put on and fix the intermediate shaft again, then with a light blow with a copper hammer on it we take out the entire shaft with the bearing.

7) Turning the rail over, disassemble the adjusting unit: with a 41 wrench, unscrew the lock nut

8) Then we unscrew the adjusting cup using any flat object, take out the spring and the clamping piston.

9) Remove the left anther, very carefully so as not to tear (we draw inside the circumference of the anther with a non-sharp object)

10) We unscrew the left rod from the rail using the keys 29 and 22.

11) On the reverse side, relax the large clamp and unfasten the boot.

12) We take out the rolling pin from the rail, put it aside.

13) We look at the rail from the left end - we see an aluminum pressure washer, behind it - the notorious bushing.

14) We hook the washer with a hook and knock it out, then take out the sleeve.

Here it is - the sleeve, because of which all ailments. )

For left hand drive

We are modifying a prefabricated PTFE bushing according to the attached drawing.

15) On the new sleeve, we make a longitudinal cut, which is necessary for its compression and putting into place. We orient the cut in the direction of the direction of movement of the car - in this direction the rail experiences the least load.

16) Lubricate the sleeve and carefully straighten the sleeve, check the fit of the sleeve with the free end of the rolling pin.

17) With a suitable head, we press in the aluminum washer. We put the rock in place. We insert the shaft into place, for this, with a key of 22, we swing the rolling pin around its axis and at the same time push the shaft - at a certain moment the gears are combined and the shaft falls through. We twist the clamping cup of the shaft until it stops, lock it with a lock nut. We assemble the adjusting assembly, tighten the adjusting cup until it stops and release it 90 degrees, lock it with a lock nut. Subsequently, the tightening torque can be adjusted on the car after a test drive with a certain skill, the mechanism must be tightened to a state where, when exiting a turn, the steering wheel itself returns to a straight position. Thrust into place, anthers into place, tighten. Rail on the subframe, subframe to the car. Near the rear (in relation to the rear of the car) fastenings of the subframe to the body there are holes on the body and on the subframe, the combination of which excludes the removal of the caster. (holes in the photo)

Tips to the levers, set the wheels straight, the steering wheel is straight from the very beginning. We attract everything and climb into the salon. There we weaken the upper cross, move the shaft between the crosses up and put the lower cross on the intermediate shaft. We are tightening everything. Subsequently, you can similarly align the steering wheel if, when driving straight ahead, the steering wheel looks slightly to the side.

The topic of repairing the steering rack is still relevant on our forum. So questions are pouring in to our “pioneers” Schnapps and Amigo33. And they respond as soon as possible. Or give good links to those resources where this topic is discussed in detail.
One of these resources is the service station "AUTOSTAR" from the city of Chita. And the author of this material is Sergey Kalashnikov. Thank God that there are still people who are ready to share their skills.

Editor's note: I hope the moderators of our site will not accept thanks for advertising.
The steering rack device can be viewed here.

This is what the strip looks like removed.

Check horizontal shafts for corrosion.

Communities › Toyota Club › Blog › Photo report on the repair of the steering rack. Wonderful! I need to do this too. Hands do not reach In the spring I will do it).

TOYOTA COROLLA steering rack repair with EUR. How I do it: unfastening the lower cardan in the straight position of the steering wheel and removing the keys from the ignition (left hand holds the steering wheel, right hand removes the cardan), I turn the steering wheel to the left until it “closes”.

Toyota Corolla RoboJapanese › Logbook › Do-it-yourself steering rack repair for Toyota Corolla. Before carrying out repairs, purchase a Toyota Corolla steering rack repair kit.

Opskaem subframe beam Well, the first stage behind, more interesting.The diagnosis of servicemen - replacing the rail in practice helps out for a short time and costs a lot. Next, the sleeve needs to be modified: This cut, when installed in a rail, must be positioned at the top and ensure that it is not filled with grease.

Toyota Corolla steering rack How to repair the steering rack yourself Toyota Corolla photo report A complete and detailed description of the rather complicated steering rack repair process with the creation of a new bushing

TAGS for search engines: TOYOTA COROLLA TOYOTA COROLLA STEERING RACK REPAIR STEERING RACK E12 E12 Hello again everyone! So the promised photo report on the repair of the steering rack is ready. Let the “old-timers” forgive me for repetitions, but in the photo report I have collected all the information necessary to repair the rail, starting with the drawing of the sleeve, ending with the final adjustment. All “landmarks” right-left, front-rear are given relative to the driver.

All photos, including the special key and bushings, are posted in the photo gallery. If the “followers” ​​have questions, then before asking them, read the previous messages. Maybe there are already answers for example: We need a special key to disassemble and adjust the steering rack. And the steering rack bushing, made according to this drawing or ordered by the forum member Makar: Dimensions 24.9 mm; 31.1mm; 32 mm must be made with the maximum possible accuracy and with the minimum roughness.

Ideally, the marks from a turning tool should be almost indistinguishable. I draw your attention to the dimensions of the sleeve, namely the diameters of 24.9 mm and 31.1 mm. Moreover, the usefulness of reducing the inner diameter and increasing the outer diameter by 0. Therefore, STRICTLY adhere to the dimensions of the sleeve according to the drawing. Next, the sleeve needs to be finished: On the sleeve, 6 longitudinal cuts are made with a hacksaw, approx. Then, with a clerical knife, we expand the cuts and give them a wedge shape, see Fig.

We make one cut for the entire length of the sleeve and expand it to approx. This cut, when installed in a rail, must be positioned at the top and ensure that it is not filled with grease. It should look something like this: Before starting work, be sure to disconnect the battery. First of all, you need to remove the steering shaft cardan shaft, while remembering that the so-called “snail” SRS AIRBAG is installed in the steering column, designed for 5 full turns: If it is exceeded, it will break and the “SRS” light will light up.

When installing, having previously set the wheels straight, I “open” the ignition lock and turning the steering wheel now to the right in a straight position - I put on the cardan.

I check the number of revolutions left and right, if necessary, rearrange the cardan. As a result, the steering bar in the extreme positions becomes vertical, I don’t remember the number of revolutions, I just set the symmetry, and accordingly, the turning radius to the right and left will be the same.

Also, do not forget to unfasten the latches of the anther, it will look something like this: When working, follow the safety precautions. And it's better to work together. To remove the steering rack, do the following: We unpin the nuts securing the steering tips to the steering knuckle, and with a sharp hammer blow, disconnect the steering tip.

When working, observe safety precautions, in particular, when unscrewing the bolts in the movement “away from you”, keep your palm open, in this case, if the key comes off, you will not knock your fingers oh, how many of them were broken In the red and yellow circles, those bolts which need to be unscrewed on the dorestyle.

Come! Steering diagnostics - free of charge!

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Repair cost with spare parts (rub.)

Is the steering rack making strange noises and leaking? Do not rush to throw it away and put a new one. The lion's share of failed units of this kind are successfully repaired. In the event that the source of failure is wear in the gear-rack assembly, Toyota Avensis steering rack repair can be carried out using advanced techniques without resorting to replacing this steering element.Approximately 50 - 100 USD in repair costs can be saved if you decide not to replace, but to repair the gear shaft, which is the main part of the mechanism. You can at least double the life of the mechanism if, during the repair, you also increase the strength of the rail using a special technique.

The sales strategy of the vast majority of automakers in the world is aimed at the same thing: it is necessary to stimulate car owners in various ways to change cars for new ones on average once every 5-7 years. But are all of us able to purchase a new model so often? Most try to repair the car "to the last", especially important parts for safe driving, such as the steering rack. Today, existing repair technologies make it possible to restore the performance of almost every worn steering mechanism. Are you of the opinion that hydraulic steering cannot be restored? Are you already looking for an ad “Toyota Avensis steering rack for sale” on the Internet? You are very wrong! Since the statement has nothing to do with reality - the European practice of restoring steering units, both components - mechanical and hydraulic, has existed for many years.

Steering racks are also successfully restored in Russian service stations, moreover, taking into account the unsatisfactory condition of domestic highways. Only Toyota Avensis steering rack repair should be trusted to professional specialists and do not do the work yourself if you doubt that you can handle it on your own. Only about 5% of steering racks are returned to repair shops during the warranty period, according to statistics.

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And any contacts you can?

Added after 1 minute 7 seconds:
I have oil leaking from the rail on the driver's side!

And any contacts you can?

Added after 1 minute 7 seconds:
I have oil leaking from the rail on the driver's side!

And any contacts you can?

Added after 1 minute 7 seconds:
I have oil leaking from the rail on the driver's side!

Throw me a contact in PM pliz, just need to take ..

100 thousand km ago, the same flowed. flight is normal. repairs were carried out in the area of ​​St. machine builders .. I don’t remember the exact address, but the steering rods, anthers and tips were replaced + repairs - it cost 300 bucksaff. but this is with their work and parts

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