Do-it-yourself steering rack repair toyota gaya

Communities › Toyota Club › Blog › Photo report on the repair of the steering rack. Wonderful! I need to do this too. Hands do not reach In the spring I will do it).

TOYOTA COROLLA steering rack repair with EUR. How I do it: unfastening the lower cardan in the straight position of the steering wheel and removing the keys from the ignition (left hand holds the steering wheel, right hand removes the cardan), I turn the steering wheel to the left until it “closes”.

Toyota Corolla RoboJapanese › Logbook › Do-it-yourself steering rack repair for Toyota Corolla. Before carrying out repairs, purchase a Toyota Corolla steering rack repair kit.

Opskaem subframe beam Well, the first stage behind, more interesting. The diagnosis of servicemen - replacing the rail in practice helps out for a short time and costs a lot. Next, the sleeve needs to be modified: This cut, when installed in a rail, must be positioned at the top and ensure that it is not filled with grease.

Toyota Corolla steering rack How to repair the steering rack yourself Toyota Corolla photo report A complete and detailed description of the rather complicated steering rack repair process with the creation of a new bushing

TAGS for search engines: TOYOTA COROLLA TOYOTA COROLLA STEERING RACK REPAIR STEERING RACK E12 E12 Hello again everyone! So the promised photo report on the repair of the steering rack is ready. Let the “old-timers” forgive me for repetitions, but in the photo report I have collected all the information necessary to repair the rail, starting with the drawing of the sleeve, ending with the final adjustment. All “landmarks” right-left, front-rear are given relative to the driver.

All photos, including the special key and bushings, are posted in the photo gallery. If the “followers” ​​have questions, then before asking them, read the previous messages. Maybe there are already answers for example: We need a special key to disassemble and adjust the steering rack. And the steering rack bushing, made according to this drawing or ordered by the forum member Makar: Dimensions 24.9 mm; 31.1mm; 32 mm must be made with the maximum possible accuracy and with the minimum roughness.

Ideally, the marks from a turning tool should be almost indistinguishable. I draw your attention to the dimensions of the sleeve, namely the diameters of 24.9 mm and 31.1 mm. Moreover, the usefulness of reducing the inner diameter and increasing the outer diameter by 0. Therefore, STRICTLY adhere to the dimensions of the sleeve according to the drawing. Next, the sleeve needs to be finished: On the sleeve, 6 longitudinal cuts are made with a hacksaw, approx. Then, with a clerical knife, we expand the cuts and give them a wedge shape, see Fig.

We make one cut for the entire length of the sleeve and expand it to approx. This cut, when installed in a rail, must be positioned at the top and ensure that it is not filled with grease. It should look something like this: Before starting work, be sure to disconnect the battery. First of all, you need to remove the steering shaft cardan shaft, while remembering that the so-called “snail” SRS AIRBAG is installed in the steering column, designed for 5 full turns: If it is exceeded, it will break and the “SRS” light will light up.

When installing, having previously set the wheels straight, I “open” the ignition lock and turning the steering wheel now to the right in a straight position - I put on the cardan.

I check the number of revolutions left and right, if necessary, rearrange the cardan. As a result, the steering bar in the extreme positions becomes vertical, I don’t remember the number of revolutions, I just set the symmetry, and accordingly, the turning radius to the right and left will be the same.

Also, do not forget to unfasten the boot latches, it will look something like this: When working, follow safety precautions. And it's better to work together. To remove the steering rack, do the following: We unpin the nuts securing the steering tips to the steering knuckle, and with a sharp hammer blow, disconnect the steering tip.

When working, observe safety precautions, in particular, when unscrewing the bolts in the movement “away from you”, keep your palm open, in this case, if the key comes off, you will not knock your fingers oh, how many of them were broken In the red and yellow circles, those bolts which need to be unscrewed on the dorestyle.

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Yes, a very important topic. At the weekend, at the technical inspection, the techies pointed out problems in the steering and also rusty wheels (I forgot to put on the caps). FREAKS. What difference does it make to them whether the wheels are rusty or not. Well, there are no holes in them. One man was deployed nearby in a Toyota with a crack in the windshield - from the top 10 cm long. We are waiting for the MOT to be handed over from the gays to private traders. Maybe then the loot will not be paid to the left, because will have a choice of where to go.

And you need to deal with the steering. To begin with, I ordered steering tips - they are only 500 rubles. in existential. I'll get it on Wednesday and look at it over the weekend.

If you have experience troubleshooting the steering rack - please speak out.

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Good evening!
How to determine whether it is necessary to change the tips and tighten the rods?
Yesterday I climbed, like there is no backlash, the anther of the tip is alive, the anther on the tie rod seems to be the same.
At the technical inspection, brains can soar endlessly, they are like experts.

Another question - the belt seems to be tensioned normally (as in the ABC book), but when turning the power steering pump, it turns quite easily (with the belt on).
And the steering wheel turns jerkily if the engine is not warm enough and you turn it on the spot. Then it seems to pass. What is the reason?

I would be happy to tighten the belt, but it’s hard to get to the nuts, there is not enough space for the knob to break the nut. The first attempt has so far been unsuccessful.

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Greetings!
In general, I didn’t start experimenting in what I don’t understand - I drove into a service that deals with Toyota (a guarantee that they know at least something, and they won’t look at the bottom like sheep).
They tightened the rail a little, tightened the belt tension, I took a paper like an invoice for the work done (just in case the steering was rejected again) and as a result, MOT was passed.
I had to put on the caps for pro forma, and then take them off (they fly off, but there is no desire to fasten them with clamps - anyway, it’s necessary to put them on soon).

I must say, I didn’t need a piece of paper, I verbally explained that the techie pulled up the rail, smoked the steering wheel, while controlling the wheel with his hand - and corrected the tick in the sheet.
So I recommend this method. It's better to pay servicemen who will do the right thing (if you can't do it yourself) than having money from the back door at a technical inspection.

Symptoms: knocking in the steering rack, which manifests itself when driving through small bumps (a disease of all Corollas with electric power steering).
The diagnosis of servicemen is the replacement of the rail (in practice, it helps out for a short time and costs a lot).
Solution: replacing everything in the rail that can knock. And there are only two places in such rails - the adjusting unit and in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe sleeve located at the opposite end of the rail (in the case of right-hand drive cars, the left side of the rail).And since nothing needs to be changed in the adjusting unit, the entire repair comes down to replacing the factory bushing with a custom-made one.

Patients: Will VS 2002 1.5 L (electric power steering!)

We climb into the pedal assembly and remove the protection from the steering shaft, it is unscrewed by hand, it can be removed easily:

We completely unscrew the bolt that secures the intermediate shaft to the cross:

IMPORTANT! Put the wheels straight, remove the key from the ignition lock, lock the steering wheel. This is done in order to prevent, after removing the rack, turning the steering wheel by more revolutions than it should be. Otherwise, a break in the wires of the “snail” of the airbag and a malfunction of the latter is inevitable.

We hang out in front of the car and take off the wheels (the front ones are enough).

Next comes the removal of the steering rack. It has been proven from our own experience that it is possible to unscrew the fasteners of the rail without additional disassembly, but pulling out the rail is very time consuming. Do not waste time, twist the stretcher - save a lot of time and effort.

But first - the steering tips: we take out the cotter pin, unscrew the nut, with a sharp biting blow of the hammer we hit the place indicated below, and the finger falls out by itself (we do it with both sides

We unscrew the subframe, 4 bolts to the body, 3 bolts in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe rear engine mount and 3 nuts in the same place.

After that, the subframe, along with the rail, gently (if you planned to unscrew the last bolt correctly) lowers and hangs on the levers and anti-roll bar. Everything - the rail is in full view: unscrew:

We remove and carry to the workbench

Let's start disassembling it:
1) Remove the rubber boot.

2) We take the key for 12 and unscrew the bolt indicated in the photo.

3) Remove the intermediate shaft.

4) Unscrew the locknut (we used a gas wrench)

5) Unscrew the clamping glass of the rack shaft.

6) Then we put on and fix the intermediate shaft again, then with a light blow with a copper hammer on it we take out the entire shaft with the bearing.

7) Turning the rail over, disassemble the adjusting unit: with a 41 wrench, unscrew the lock nut

8) Then we unscrew the adjusting cup using any flat object, take out the spring and the clamping piston.

9) Remove the left anther, very carefully so as not to tear (we draw inside the circumference of the anther with a non-sharp object)

10) We unscrew the left rod from the rail using the keys 29 and 22.

11) On the reverse side, we relax the large clamp and unfasten the boot.

12) We take out the rolling pin from the rail, put it aside.

13) We look at the rail from the left end - we see an aluminum pressure washer, behind it - the notorious bushing.

14) We hook the washer with a hook and knock it out, then take out the sleeve.

Here it is - the sleeve, because of which all ailments. )

For left hand drive

We are modifying a prefabricated PTFE bushing according to the attached drawing.

15) On the new sleeve, we make a longitudinal cut, which is necessary for its compression and putting into place. We orient the cut in the direction of the direction of movement of the car - in this direction the rail experiences the least load.

16) Lubricate the sleeve and carefully straighten the sleeve, check the fit of the sleeve with the free end of the rolling pin.

17) With a suitable head, we press in the aluminum washer. We put the rock in place. We insert the shaft into place, for this, with a key of 22, we swing the rolling pin around its axis and at the same time push the shaft - at a certain moment the gears are combined and the shaft falls through. We twist the clamping cup of the shaft until it stops, lock it with a lock nut. We assemble the adjusting assembly, tighten the adjusting cup until it stops and release it 90 degrees, lock it with a lock nut. Subsequently, the tightening torque can be adjusted on the car after a test drive with a certain skill, the mechanism must be tightened to a state where, when exiting a turn, the steering wheel itself returns to a straight position. Thrust into place, anthers into place, tighten. Rail on the subframe, subframe to the car.Near the rear (in relation to the rear of the car) fastenings of the subframe to the body there are holes on the body and on the subframe, the combination of which excludes the removal of the caster. (holes in the photo)

Tips to the levers, set the wheels straight, the steering wheel is straight from the very beginning. We attract everything and climb into the salon. There we weaken the upper cross, move the shaft between the crosses up and put the lower cross on the intermediate shaft. We are tightening everything. Subsequently, you can similarly align the steering wheel if, when driving straight, the steering wheel looks slightly to the side.

It’s just that when I was sorting out the rail, the verdict was announced that the current was coming to a kick with one thrust, and when I went to make a gathering, they told me that the thrust had already come full, and the knock was annoying me and the starter topic was encouraging with a decision))). Yes, and I try not to miss the typewriter))))

Comrades, advice is needed - a strange quiet knock “knock-knock” “knock-knock” appeared in front. the car coasts at low speed, the steering wheel is left and right, the car sways a little and there is a “he” feeling that this knock is both left and right. More recently, I replaced everything that was possible on the chassis, I began to sin on tie rods.
they can tap so quietly and unpleasantly?

and there was also a completely unpleasant “rattling” in the steering wheel itself, the feeling that this rattling was right on the airbag, I removed the pillow, removed all the levers of the wipers and turn signals, got to the bearing, which is rolled on the shaft, but everything seems to be holding dead there. plastic sleeve, which is lower on the shaft changed. Cardan, which in the cabin cannot “blink” like that. but the sound is right at the top. already broke his head, what could it be

Timezone: UTC + 3 hours [DST]

So I decided to try and post pictures.
Roughly a year ago, a rake flowed, it even looks like homedecided to buy a new one. The choice rested on the company General Ricambi at a price of 18,000 rubles apiece. After replacing it with the purchased rail, I washed my removed one, examined it and decided to disassemble it (especially since they wrote on the forum that the ZF is non-separable). An autopsy showed that the leak was due to corrosion of the rack shaft. Corrosion occurred due to leakage of protective covers, tk. when replacing the steering rods, instead of the factory (iron) clamps (those on the rack housing), I installed plastic clamps. It was through them that some water seeped through, which led to corrosion.
In the future, after bitter experience, I install metal clamps (those that are tightened with a screw).
The reason for removing the rail and its bulkhead: when you take the rail shaft and shake it from side to side, it plays.
I don’t consider removing the steering rack, because. has already been chewed up.

When disassembling the rail, we need the following tool:
- a key for 12 (for unscrewing the tubes)
- head 17 (for unscrewing the rail shaft guide)
- hexagon 6 (for unscrewing the worm body)
- Flat-bladed screwdriver (for removing the retaining ring)

Inspection and culling of parts
I must say right away that the rail shaft, which was subject to corrosion, decided to grind it, because. electroplating did not help. The original shaft diameter is 26 mm. I got 24 mm. because mud..la turner when grinding the shaft by 25 mm. loosened it in some places, after which it, the rail, leaked in certain positions of the steering wheel. But after grinding at 24 mm everything is OK.
Support bushings (2 pieces) and oil seals have undergone replacement and modernization. These are the drawings of the bushings I gave to the turner.

In the original oil seals 26 * 35 * 7.
So the sleeve, which is in the sleeve. The photo shows which one was installed in the original and which one I installed.

Dimensions of homemade bushings

The second sleeve (the one that is located in the bowels of the rack housing)
I just increased the thickness of the bushings.

I’ll make a reservation right away that all the increases in the thickness of the bushings did not affect the normal operation of the rail in any way, because. in the body there was a margin in depth at the installation site of the sleeve, and in the sleeve of the place the entire inner part of the sleeve.The only moment IMPORTANT in the sleeve, the turned sleeve should not protrude (it is better not to reach 3-5 mm to the point of contact of the tie rod apple with the sleeve), otherwise when the steering wheel is turned all the way to the right with the rod apple, this sleeve will go inside
All other details (rubber rings, etc.) did not change. They are in good condition.
Moreover, when installing the inner bushing and the stuffing box, you will need another bushing (so as not to spoil the stuffing box when pressing in) with dimensions of 26 * 34 * 6-10 mm. (thickness does not matter. the thicker, within reasonable limits, the bodies are more reliable) Below will be shown its role.

Last edited by Dmitry on Mon Dec 20, 2010 9:47 pm, edited 5 times in total.

Mods, please delete this thread as dangerous.

goodvox
These “nuts” are NOT for adjustments. Instead of mindless intervention in the responsible steering assembly, it was necessary to repair or replace it normally.
Your advice is from the category “Put a piece of a nail in place of a fuse in an electrical circuit.”

Dear Khoja_Nasreddin!
I'm sure you should justify your answer! Why it is impossible to regulate these "nuts" and what exactly they are made for. Perhaps you are right and it would be better for me to spend 16,000 rubles on a new steering rack and about 5 thousand rubles. to replace it? Indeed, in any service where I applied and to official dealers, the answer is the same - change the rail. Although much cheaper and easier to do as I described.
If you delve into the details of production and technology, modern production of cars and their production technologies are arranged in such a way that any car will last no more than 5 years. Otherwise, the automotive business is simply not profitable. One more thing! Even if you order a new steering rack or change it under warranty, they send it to you not new from the assembly line, but restored at the factory. Such is the case my friends! And so everyone must decide for himself which path is best for him.

The topic of repairing the steering rack is still relevant on our forum. So questions are pouring in to our “pioneers” Schnapps and Amigo33. And they respond as soon as possible. Or give good links to those resources where this topic is discussed in detail.
One of these resources is the service station "AUTOSTAR" from the city of Chita. And the author of this material is Sergey Kalashnikov. Thank God that there are still people who are ready to share their skills.

Editor's note: I hope the moderators of our site will not accept thanks for advertising.
The steering rack device can be viewed here.

This is what the strip looks like removed.

Check horizontal shafts for corrosion.

I want to raise a long-standing topic, which at 150 Corolla may not be as relevant as at 120 - ku, because according to my own observations on Corolla 150, it is the rake that does not bother so much. Basically the steering column, both promvala. Nevertheless, I want to share, because the topic of steering racks, including their repair and lubrication, is relevant: the steering rack is not officially repaired or serviced, but is quite expensive. In addition, there are no steering rods for sale separately, if we talk about “original” ones.

The advice was shared by a person working in a taxi company in Vladivostok, which acquired many of our Corollas at one time, in fact, he operated them with decent mileage.
This was not the only useful practical advice of his that I read about. The author also submitted to the court a photo report on the implementation of this simple, in general, technique. I just brought it a little in a form convenient for reading and downloading.

I will make a reservation right away that experts on the usefulness of the “oiler” tie-in disagreed. Some arguments I can voice, some are not Copenhagen.
In general, I invite you to discuss.

I’ll add three points right away, I read the opinions:
1. The lubricant used in the report is COMPLETELY unsuitable for Toyota steering racks
2. She was squirted too much.
3. The insert was made, a little in the wrong place.

I completely agree with the first one, I am not ready to either confirm or dispute the other two.

I can add from my experience in repairing / lubricating the rails on my previous car - KIA C'eed. Here are the generalized methods that I used taken from the KIA C’eed forum:

So, everything that is described here takes place on most modern cars, both classmates and cars of a higher class than Toyta. Before drilling the rail itself, first check the steering crosses that are in the cabin (if I'm not mistaken, there are 2 of them), as well as the telescopic pipe (it is responsible for adjusting the steering wheel for reach), in most cases it knocks right there. It is also not uncommon for crosses with increased backlash to be installed at the factory, which begin to knock after a few hundred kilometers, it also happens that the bolts fixing the crosses turn away or weaken (not all manufacturers counter them, oddly enough). The slats themselves usually begin to tap at a run of 100-120 thousand km (I will make a reservation for everyone in different ways), this knock usually manifests itself when driving through pits and combs and has a dull but loud sound, while it usually does not reflect on the steering wheel, that is, at the same time, no shock is felt on the steering wheel.

About lubricant. AZMOL FIOL-1 lubricant was used as recommended for this type of work. FIOL-1 is an NLGI class 1 grease, i.e. has a lower viscosity at low temperatures compared to the universal greases of the Litol group (NLGI 2), which undoubtedly has a positive effect on further operation. Otherwise, these lubricants are identical.
About volume. 150 grams of grease on each side is enough (two oilers were placed). No need to clog the entire rail to the eyeballs, the air flow inside must be maintained.

As a result, I concluded that lubrication of the rack does not help for a long time. I traveled about 20 thousand. After lubrication, then I just changed the rack. And I set the methods for treating knocking in the steering according to my next priority
1. rail replacement
2. steering rack lubrication (Fiol-1)
4. screwing the bolt into the EUR to increase the force on the secondary shaft (dumb, tight steering wheel)

Undoubtedly. Separate one from the other. On the pit it's easy to do :)
As for the Corolla 150, most of the knocks come from there, and not from the rack itself. The rail itself knocks on the RAV-4, and on the Outlenlers, and on the Highlanders, and right from the cabin.
On Corollas, if the rake knocks, it also knocks right away. Or a little bit later. As far as I read, the replacement under the guarantee did not give anything, in general, the author also writes about this.
On the indicated runs, knocking is already wear and tear during operation. It definitely cannot be cured by anything other than the manufacture of fluoroplastic bushings (I think this topic is familiar to you).
Knocks in the steering column take place due to unscrewing and on the Corolla, this, as correctly noted, is eliminated very simply, pulling up without any dibo disassembly.
The crosses of the intermediate shaft, which is responsible for adjusting the reach), there is no way to treat this for sure 🙂
There is another intermediate shaft under the hood safety folding, the same story. Two cardan shafts, and a knock in the spline connection of the folding shaft.
Also, discard the knock from the steering tips (which, in general, does not happen immediately with Corolla at low mileage), and most importantly, from the bushings and struts of the anti-roll bar, the knocks from which are very often confused with the rail itself.

Determining a malfunction in the steering rack is easy. There are several main signs that indicate a breakdown:

• the appearance of traces of a leak near the seals;
• the occurrence of difficulties with driving a car;
• accompanying the movement of Toyota Corona / Caldina with extraneous sounds;
• corrosion coating of the rod surface;
• the appearance of backlash rails.

To understand what caused the problem, a detailed diagnosis will allow.It will also show whether repairs can help or whether a complete replacement of the rail will be a mandatory measure to eliminate the problem. Repair of a separate part of the steering rack will be cheaper. But, unfortunately, he cannot fully restore the working life of the part.

Replacing the rack in an authorized car service will cost at least $ 70. The amount is large, so often the owners perform the entire procedure on their own, saving on the services of specialists.

How correct is this decision? It's hard to judge. However, the dismantling and installation of the steering rack on the Toyota Corona/Caldina can be performed by every car owner, even without experience in repair work. The only thing you need for work is a tool and detailed instructions. If you follow the algorithm very carefully, listening to the recommendations, you can quickly complete the procedure and the result will be no worse than in the service.

This manual was written by the Toyota Corona/Caldina manufacturers, making it the best source of information available. You can read the material and accompanying illustrations here:

Mods, please delete this thread as dangerous.

goodvox
These “nuts” are NOT for adjustments. Instead of thoughtlessly interfering with the responsible steering assembly, it was necessary to repair or replace it normally.
Your advice is from the category “Put a piece of a nail in place of a fuse in an electrical circuit.”

Dear Khoja_Nasreddin!
I'm sure you should justify your answer! Why it is impossible to regulate these "nuts" and what exactly they are made for. Perhaps you are right and it would be better for me to spend 16,000 rubles on a new steering rack and about 5 thousand rubles. to replace it? Indeed, in any service where I applied and to official dealers, the answer is the same - change the rail. Although much cheaper and easier to do as I described.
If you delve into the details of production and technology, modern production of cars and their production technologies are arranged in such a way that any car will last no more than 5 years. Otherwise, the automotive business is simply not profitable. One more thing! Even if you order a new steering rack or change it under warranty, they send it to you not new from the assembly line, but restored at the factory. Such is the case my friends! And so everyone must decide for himself which path is best for him.

The main function of the steering rack (gearbox) in the device of the car is to organize the rotation of the car. The steering rack is present in cars with power steering, as well as in those cars in which there is no power steering. It connects the steering wheel to the wheels, and therefore its role is very important for safe movement in the car. The diagnosis of this mechanism must be approached with the utmost responsibility, as, indeed, repair.

All cars, regardless of price and status, are subject to rapid wear of steering parts, because it is these parts that take the hit at any turn, hitting an obstacle, hitting the wheels in potholes on the road.

To determine if your vehicle's steering system needs repair, look for the following signs of a malfunctioning mechanism:

• a knock is clearly felt in the steering rack, which is felt through the steering wheel of the car;
• increased effort required to rotate the steering wheel;
• there were extraneous sounds and noise in the power steering pump;
• there was a backlash of the steering rack, which is felt when the steering wheel is rotated;
• the power steering oil began to leak from the steering rack.

If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.

So, your steering rack is leaking. What to do, how to repair and improve the performance of the steering?
First of all, it is worth noting that it is actually very difficult to repair this unit, and it is worth starting the procedure only if you have all the necessary equipment at hand, as well as experience and knowledge in the field of car structure.

The steering rack mechanism consists of the following parts:

• toothed shaft;
• steering rack support sleeve;
• golden mechanism.

Repair of the steering rack usually consists of several stages:

1. Dismantling, disassembly of the steering rack and cleaning of accumulations of all its parts.
2. Replacement of damaged parts of the mechanism with new parts.
3. Diagnosis of the gear shaft of the steering rack.

Before starting repair work, you should acquire a special repair kit, which includes new parts for the steering rack (oil seals, steering rack bushing, ring seals, and others).
How to remove the steering rack.

1. Drive the car into the pit or raise it with jacks.
2. Remove the engine protection (if you have one).
3. Remove the steering rack heat shield.
4. Unscrew the fasteners on the steering rack.
5. Remove the rail from the mounts and pull it out of the insides of the car.

It is worth noting that it will be better for you to remove the steering rack along with the tie rods, because it will be much more convenient to pull the new anthers onto special protrusions on the tie rods. This will help you install the anthers with a perfect tightness.

1. Unscrew the rack from the steering rods using a special flat screwdriver.
2. Unscrew the lower plastic plug of the gear shaft.
3. Loosen the lock nut.
4. Remove the circlip and gently knock the shaft out of its place.
5. Pull out the bottom seal.
6. By tapping, remove the locking pin that blocks the upper gland.
7. Twist the retaining plug and pull the retaining ring out by the wire that will come out when you turn it.
8. Pull the steering rack through the right side and remove the oil seal and plastic bushing from it.
9. Remove the gland and plug, pull out the spring and clamping mechanism.

Next, wash all parts from oil and dirt deposits and carefully inspect all parts for mechanical damage due to wear. All damaged parts must be replaced without fail. If the surface of the steering rack and the gear of the toothed shaft are significantly damaged, then most likely the entire mechanism will need to be replaced (how the steering rack is replaced on the VAZ 2109, read in our material).

1. Carefully install the inner oil seal in its place, having previously lubricated it with special grease (you need to put it through the right side with the spring down).
2. Place the rail into the housing.
3. Put the plastic bushing on the right oil seal, lubricate all parts with grease and install the oil seal in its place by pushing it with something.
4. Install the plug and secure it with the lock wire.
5. Put the bottom seal on the toothed shaft.
6. Set the steering rack to the middle position.
7. Insert the gear shaft into the seat, after lubricating the seals with grease.
8. Gently insert the top seal into place, using a hammer to help it slide into place. Install the retaining ring.
9. Tighten the lower lock nut, bearing, plug.
10. Install the clamping mechanism, spring and plug. Pull harder.

Then install the rack on the car in reverse order. Be sure to do a “alignment” after the repair or replacement procedure.
Do-it-yourself steering rack repair without and with power steering has much in common, the differences are minor: different bushings and the composition of the lubrication fluid.

If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.