In detail: DIY repair of the steering rack of Toyota Nadia from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Communities ›Toyota Club› Blog ›Steering rack repair photo report. Wonderful! I also need to do that. Hands do not reach Spring will do).
Repair of a steering rack TOYOTA COROLLA with EUR. As I do: unbuckling the lower cardan in the straight steering position and removing the keys from the ignition switch (the left hand holds the steering wheel, the right one removes the cardan), I twist the steering wheel to the left until it “closes”.
Toyota Corolla RoboJapanese ›Logbook› Do-it-yourself steering rack repair on Toyota Corolla. Before carrying out repairs, purchase a Toyota Corolla steering rack repair kit.
Obsk the stretcher beam Well, the first stage is over, it is more interesting further. Diagnosis of servicemen - replacing the rail in practice does not help out for long and costs a lot. Further, the bushing needs to be modified: This cut, when installed in the rail, must be positioned at the top and make sure that it does not fill with grease.
Steering racks Toyota Corolla How to repair the steering rack on your own Toyota Corolla photo report Full and detailed description of the rather complicated process of repairing the steering rack with the creation of a new bushing
LABELS for search engines: TOYOTA COROLLA TOYOTA COROLLA STEERING RACK REPAIR STEERING RACK E12 E12 Hello everyone again! So the promised photo report on the repair of the steering rack is ready. Let the “old-timers” forgive me for repetitions, but in the photo report I have collected all the information necessary to repair the rail, starting with the drawing of the bushing and ending with the final adjustment. All "landmarks" right-left, front-rear are given relative to the driver.
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Video (click to play). |
All photos, including the special keys and bushings, are posted in the photo gallery. If the “followers” have any questions, then before asking them, read the previous messages. Maybe there are already answers for example: We need a special key for disassembling and adjusting the steering rack. And the steering rack bushing, made according to this drawing or ordered by the forum member Makar: Dimensions 24.9 mm; 31.1 mm; 32 mm must be made with the maximum possible accuracy and minimum roughness.
Ideally, the marks from the turning tool should be virtually indistinguishable. I would like to draw your attention to the dimensions of the sleeve, namely the diameters of 24.9 mm and 31.1 mm. Moreover, it is useful to decrease the inner diameter and increase the outer diameter by 0. Therefore, STRICTLY adhere to the dimensions of the sleeve as shown in the drawing. Further, the bushing must be reworked: 6 longitudinal cuts are made on the bushing with a hacksaw for metal, with a depth of approx. Then, with a clerical knife, we expand the cuts and give them a wedge shape, see.
We make one cut over the entire length of the sleeve and expand it by approx. This cut, when installed in the rail, must be positioned at the top and make sure that it does not fill with grease. It should look something like this: Before starting work, be sure to disconnect the battery. The first step is to remove the steering shaft cardan, while remembering that the so-called “snail” SRS AIRBAG is installed in the steering column, designed for 5 full revolutions: If exceeded, it will break and the “SRS” light will turn on.
When installing, after setting the wheels straight ahead, “open” the ignition switch and turning the steering wheel now to the right into a straight position - I throw on the cardan.
I check the number of turns left and right, if necessary, rearrange the cardan. As a result, the steering bar in the extreme positions becomes vertical, I don’t remember the number of revolutions, I just set the symmetry, and accordingly, the turning radius to the right and left will be the same.
Also, do not forget to unfasten the boot latches, it will look something like this: When working, follow safety precautions. And it's better to work together.To remove the steering rack, do the following: Unpin the nuts securing the steering tips to the steering knuckle, and with a sharp hammer blow, disconnect the steering tip.
When working, observe safety precautions, in particular, when unscrewing the bolts in the movement "away from you", keep your palm open, in this case, if the key comes off, you will not bump your fingers, oh, how many of them were broken In red and yellow circles, those bolts which must be unscrewed on the dorestyle.
Symptoms: knocks in the steering rack, manifested when driving through small irregularities (disease of all korollopodobnye with electric power steering).
Diagnosis of servicemen - replacing the rail (in practice, it does not help out for long and costs a lot).
Solution: replacing anything in the rail that can knock. And there are only two places knocking in such rails - the adjusting unit and in the area of the bushing located at the opposite end of the rail (in the case of right-hand drive cars - the left side of the rail). And since nothing needs to be changed in the adjusting unit, all repairs are reduced to replacing the factory bushing with a custom-made one.
Patients: Will VS 2002 1.5 L (electric power steering!)
We climb into the pedal assembly and remove the protection from the steering shaft, unscrew it by hand, and remove it easily:
We completely unscrew the bolt securing the intermediate shaft to the crosspiece:
IMPORTANT! Put the wheels straight, remove the key from the ignition, lock the steering wheel. This is done in order to prevent, after removing the rack, turning the steering wheel by a number of revolutions more than it should be. Otherwise, a break in the wires of the "snail" of the airbag and the resulting malfunction of the latter are inevitable.
We hang out in front of the car and throw off the wheels (front enough).
Next is the removal of the steering rack. It has been proven from our own experience that it is possible to unscrew the rail fasteners without additional disassembly, but pulling out the rail is very time consuming. Do not waste time, twist the stretcher - you will save a lot of time and effort.
But first - the steering tips: take out the cotter pin, unscrew the nut, hit the place indicated below with a sharp, biting hammer blow, and the finger falls out by itself (we do it with both sides
We unscrew the subframe, 4 bolts to the body, 3 bolts in the area of the rear engine mount and 3 nuts in the same place.
After that, the subframe, together with the rack, gently (if you planned to unscrew the last bolt correctly) lowers and hangs on the levers and the anti-roll bar. Everything - the rail at a glance: unscrew:
We remove and carry to the workbench
Let's start disassembling it:
1) Remove the rubber boot.
2) Take the 12 key and unscrew the bolt shown in the photo.
3) Remove the intermediate shaft.
4) Unscrew the lock nut (used a gas wrench)
5) Unscrew the clamping cup of the rack shaft.
6) Then we put on and fix the intermediate shaft again, then take out the entire shaft with the bearing with a light blow with a copper hammer on it.
7) Turning the rail over, disassemble the adjusting unit: unscrew the lock nut with a 41 key
8) Then we unscrew the adjusting cup using any flat object, take out the spring and the pressure piston.
9) Remove the left anther, very carefully so as not to break (we draw inside along the circumference of the anther with a non-sharp object)
10) Unscrew the left rod from the rail using keys 29 and 22.
11) On the back side, we loosen the large clamp and detach the boot.
12) Take the rolling pin out of the rail, put it aside.
13) We look at the rail from the left end - we see an aluminum hold-down washer, behind it is the notorious bushing.
14) We hook the washer with a hook and knock it out, then take out the sleeve.
Here it is - the sleeve, because of which all the ailments. ) 
For left hand drive
Modifying a pre-made PTFE bushing according to the attached drawing.
15) On the new sleeve, we make a longitudinal cut necessary for its compression and setting in place. We orient the cut in the direction of the car's movement - in this direction the rail experiences the least stress.
16) Lubricate the sleeve and gently straighten the sleeve, check the fit of the sleeve with the free end of the rolling pin.
17) Press in the aluminum washer with a suitable head. Insert the rolling pin into place. We insert the shaft into place, for this, with a 22 key, we swing the rolling pin around its axis and at the same time push the shaft - at a certain moment the gears are aligned and the shaft falls through. We tighten the clamping sleeve of the shaft until it stops, we counter it with a lock nut. We assemble the adjusting unit, tighten the adjusting cup until it stops and release it by 90 degrees, counter nut with a counter nut. Subsequently, the tightening torque can be adjusted on the machine after a test drive with a certain skill, the mechanism must be tightened until the steering wheel returns to the straight position when exiting the turn. Pull into place, anthers into place, tighten. Rail for stretcher, stretcher for cars. Near the rear (in relation to the rear of the car) fastenings of the subframe to the body there are holes on the body and on the subframe, the combination of which excludes the removal of the caster. (holes in the photo)
Tips to the levers, set the wheels straight, the steering wheel is straight from the very beginning. We pull everything in and climb into the salon. There we loosen the upper crosspiece, move the shaft between the crosspieces up and put the lower crosspiece on the intermediate shaft. We are tightening everything. Subsequently, you can similarly align the steering wheel if, when driving straight, the steering wheel looks slightly to the side.
It's just that when I was sorting out the rail, the verdict was announced that the current is coming to a kicker with one thrust, and when I went to make a descent, I was told that the full kicker had already arrived, and the knock strains me and the topic of the starter reassured me with a decision))). Yes, and I try not to screw up the typewriter))))
Comrades, advice is needed - a strange quiet knock “knock-knock” “knock-knock” knock appeared in front. the car is coasting at low speed, the steering wheel is left and right, the car sways a little and “he” appears that this knock is both left and right. Quite recently, I replaced everything that was possible on the chassis, I began to sin on the steering rods.
can they tap so quietly and unpleasantly?
and there was also a completely unpleasant "clatter" in the steering wheel itself, the feeling that this clatter was straight on the airbag, took off the pillow, removed all the levers of the wipers and turn signals, got to the bearing, which is rolled on the shaft, but everything seems to be holding on dead there. a plastic sleeve, which I changed below on the shaft. Kardanchik, which in the cabin can not so "blur". but the sound is right at the very top. already broke my head, what could it be
The topic of repairing the steering rack is still relevant on our forum. So questions are poured into our "discoverers" Schnapps and Amigo33... And they, as far as possible, answer. Or give good links to resources where this topic is discussed in detail.
One of these resources is the service station "AUTOSTAR" from the city of Chita. And the author of this material is Sergey Kalashnikov. Thank God that there are still people ready to share their skills.
Contributor's Note: I hope the moderators of our site will not accept gratitude for the advertisement.
The steering rack device can be viewed here.
This is how the removed rail looks like.
Checking horizontal shafts for corrosion.
The possibility of repairing the Toyota Nadia steering rack can be assessed at our stations at the time of diagnosis. If the steering rack housing is intact (no cracks) and when opened, the shaft will also be intact, then repair of the Toyota Nadia steering rack will most likely be possible.
Service station on Grazhdanka - 603-55-05, from 10 to 20, no days off.
Service station in Kupchino - 245-33-15, from 10 to 20, no days off.
WhatAapp / Viber: 8-911-766-42-33
Toyota Nadia steering rack repair takes 1 to 2 days. There are, of course, exceptions, but quite rarely. If the diagnostics show that the problem is in the rail, and not in the power steering pump, then we remove the rail and repair it at our stations. Also, we can repair the power steering and electric power steering.
After repairing the rail, you will definitely need to do the wheel alignment.If desired, we can also change the tie rods and steering tips. After installing the handled steering rack, we will flush the steering system and fill the power steering tank with new fluid.
When to make repairs:
- a knock appeared in the steering rack;
- the steering wheel has become tight and turns with difficulty;
- smudges on the steering rack visible in the parking lot;
- hum in the power steering;
- incorrect return of the steering wheel to its original position;
- when turning the steering wheel, the wheels remain in their original position.
Work guarantee - 3-6 months
Diagnostics during repairs with us is free!
If the car is not in motion, we can send a tow truck.
Time zone: UTC + 3 hours [Daylight Saving Time]
So I decided to try to post pictures.
Roughly a year ago, a rail flowed, it seems even dear, decided to buy a new one. The choice was on the firm General Ricambi at a price of 18,000 rubles apiece. After replacing it with the purchased rail, I washed my removed one, examined it and decided to disassemble it (especially since they wrote on the forum that the ZF was not demountable). An autopsy showed that the leak was due to corrosion of the rack shaft. Corrosion occurred as a result of leakage of protective covers, because when replacing the steering rods, instead of the factory (iron) clamps (those that are on the rack housing), I installed plastic clamps. It was through them that water seeped, which led to corrosion.
Later, after bitter experience, I install metal clamps (those that are tightened with a screw).
The reason for removing the rack and its bulkhead: when you take the rack shaft and wiggle it from side to side, it loosens.
I do not consider removing the steering rack, because has already been chewed.
When disassembling the rail, we need the following tool:
- key 12 (for unscrewing the tubes)
- head 17 (for unscrewing the rail guide shaft)
- hexagon 6 (for unscrewing the worm body)
- flat-blade screwdriver (to remove the retaining ring)
Inspection and rejection of parts
I must say right away that I decided to grind the shaft of the rack, which is prone to corrosion. electroplating didn't help. The diameter of the shaft was originally 26 mm. I got 24 mm. since mud..la turner when grinding the shaft by 25 mm. weakened it in some places, after which it, the rail, leaked in certain positions of the steering wheel. But after grinding 24 mm everything is OK.
Support bushings (2 pieces) and oil seals have undergone replacement and modernization. These are the drawings of the bushings I gave to the turner.
In the original, oil seals are 26 * 35 * 7.
So the sleeve that is in the sleeve. The photo shows which one was installed in the original and which one I installed. 
Sizes of homemade bushings
The second bushing (the one that is located in the bowels of the rail body)
I just increased the thickness of the bushings. 
I will make a reservation right away that all the increases in the thickness of the bushings did not affect the normal operation of the rail. in the case there was a depth margin at the place where the sleeve was installed, and in the sleeve there was the entire inner part of the sleeve. The only moment is IMPORTANT in the sleeve, the machined sleeve should not protrude (it is better not to reach 3-5 mm to the point of contact of the steering rod apple with the sleeve), otherwise when the steering wheel is turned all the way to the right with the rod apple, this sleeve will push inward
I did not change all other parts (rubber rings, etc.). They are up to par.
Moreover, when installing the inner sleeve and the oil seal, you will need another sleeve (so as not to spoil the oil seal during pressing) with dimensions of 26 * 34 * 6-10 mm. (The thickness does not matter. The thicker, within reasonable limits, the bodies are more reliable) Its role will be shown below.
Last edited by Dmitriy on Mon Dec 20, 2010 9:47 pm, edited 5 times in total.
Determining a malfunction in the steering rack is easy. There are several main signs that indicate a breakdown:
- the appearance of leak marks next to the oil seals;
- the occurrence of difficulties with driving a car;
- tracking the movement of Toyota Corona / Caldina by extraneous sounds;
- corrosion coating of the stem surface;
- the appearance of slack backlash.
To understand why the problem arose, detailed diagnostics will allow.It will also show whether the repair can help, or whether a complete replacement of the rail will be an obligatory measure to eliminate the problem. Repairing a separate part of the steering rack will be cheaper. But, unfortunately, it cannot fully restore the working life of the part.
Replacing the rail in an authorized car service will cost at least $ 70. The amount is large, so the owners often carry out the entire procedure on their own, saving on the services of specialists.
How correct is this decision? It is difficult to judge. However, the dismantling and installation of the steering rack on a Toyota Corona / Caldina can be done by every car owner, even without experience in repair work. The only thing you need for work is a tool and detailed instructions. If you follow the algorithm very carefully, listening to the recommendations, you can quickly complete the procedure and the result will be no worse than in the service.
The manual is written by Toyota Corona / Caldina, making it the best source of information possible. You can familiarize yourself with the material and accompanying illustrations here:
The main function of the steering rack (reducer) in the car device is to organize the rotation of the car. The steering rack is present in cars with power steering, as well as in those cars in which there is no power steering. It connects the steering wheel to the wheels, and therefore its role is very important for safe movement in the car. The diagnosis of this mechanism must be approached with the utmost responsibility, as well as repairs.
All cars are subject to rapid wear of steering parts, regardless of price and status, because it is these parts that take a hit at any turn, hitting an obstacle, hitting the wheels on bumps on the road.
To determine if your vehicle's steering needs repairs, look for the following signs of a malfunctioning mechanism:
- there is clearly a knock on the steering rack, which is felt through the steering wheel of a car;
- increased effort required to rotate the steering wheel;
- there were extraneous sounds and noise in the power steering pump;
- there was a backlash in the steering rack, which is felt when the steering wheel rotates;
- power steering oil began to leak from the steering rack.
If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.
So, you have a steering rack leaking. What to do, how to make repairs and adjust the steering performance?
First of all, it is worth noting that it is actually very difficult to repair this unit, and it is worth starting the procedure only if you have all the necessary equipment at hand, as well as experience and knowledge in the field of car construction.
The steering rack mechanism consists of the following parts:
- toothed shaft;
- steering rack support sleeve;
- spool mechanism.
Repairing a steering rack usually consists of several stages:
- Dismantling, disassembling the steering rack and cleaning the accumulation of all its parts.
- Replacement of damaged parts of the mechanism with new parts.
- Diagnostics of the toothed shaft of the steering rack.
Before starting repair work, you should get a special repair kit, which includes new parts for the steering rack (oil seals, steering rack bushing, ring seals, and others).
How to remove the steering rack.
- Drive the car into a hole or raise it with jacks.
- Remove the engine protection (if you have one).
- Remove the steering rack heat insulation plate.
- Unscrew the fasteners on the steering rack.
- Remove the rail from the mountings and pull it out of the interior of the car.
It is worth noting that it will be better for you to remove the steering rack along with the steering rods, because the new anthers will be much more convenient to pull on the special protrusions on the steering rods. This will help you to fit perfectly sealed anthers.
- Unscrew the rack from the steering rods using a special flat-head screwdriver.
- Unscrew the bottom plastic gear shaft plug.
- Unscrew the lock nut.
- Remove the retaining ring and gently knock the shaft out of its place.
- Pull out the lower oil seal.
- Tap out the locking pin that is blocking the upper oil seal.
- Unscrew the retaining plug and pull the retaining ring out of the wire that will show up as you turn it.
- Pull the steering rack out through the right side and remove the oil seal and plastic bushing from the rack.
- Remove the oil seal and plug, pull out the spring and pressure mechanism.
Next, wash all parts from oil and dirt deposits and carefully inspect all parts for mechanical damage due to wear. All damaged parts must be replaced without fail. If the surface of the steering rack and the gears of the toothed shaft have significant damage, then most likely it will be necessary to replace the entire mechanism as a whole (how to replace the steering rack with a VAZ 2109, read in our material).
- Carefully install the inner oil seal in its place, having previously lubricated it with special grease (you need to put it through the right side with the spring down).
- Place the rail into the enclosure.
- Slide the plastic sleeve over the right gland, lubricate all parts with grease, and push the gland back into place by pushing something.
- Install the plug and secure it with the retaining wire.
- Slide the lower oil seal onto the toothed shaft.
- Place the steering rack in the middle position.
- Insert the toothed shaft into the seat after lubricating the seals with grease.
- Gently push the upper oil seal into place, using a hammer to push it into place. Install the retaining ring.
- Install the bottom lock nut, bearing, plug.
- Install the hold-down mechanism, spring and plug. Tighten tight.
Then install the rail on the car in reverse order. Be sure to do “camber-convergence” after the procedure for repairing or replacing parts.
Do-it-yourself steering rack repair without and with power steering has a lot in common, the differences are minor: different bushings and the composition of the lubricant.
If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.
