In detail: do-it-yourself VAZ Oka steering rack repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
When the parts of the steering mechanism are worn, knocks appear and the free play of the steering wheel increases. With the appearance of these signs, first check the tightness of the nuts securing the steering mechanism and other steering components, and then make sure that there are no backlashes in the joints of the steering rods and the intermediate steering shaft.
To repair and adjust the steering mechanism, special tools and devices are required, in addition, this unit directly affects traffic safety, so we recommend replacing it with a new one or repairing it in a specialized workshop in the event of a malfunction.
You will need keys "for 10", "for 13", "for 19", a beard, a hammer.
1. Place the front of the vehicle on jack stands and remove the front wheels.
As you know, on an Oka car, the steering rack is subject to adjustment (tightening) only when it is removed from the car. If, after the repair, the rail has weakened and knocks have appeared, the rail will have to be removed from the car.
What prevents the adjustment directly on the car, because in the 08th family this operation is performed without removing it and the adjusting threaded bolt is available in the engine compartment? At Oka, the rail is located in the crankcase on the subframe, and this crankcase closes the adjusting bolt.
However, the problem can be solved by making a cutout in the crankcase with a grinder. See the photos below - the cutout had to be expanded in place with a welding electrode, after which it became possible to adjust with a regular key designed to tighten the rail. When boiling a piece of crankcase with an electrode, do not forget to remove the terminal from the battery and protect the rubber corrugations of the backstage and steering rack rods from splashes of molten metal with tin shields. We keep compressed air and a blow gun close at hand - this is an extinguishing agent if something catches fire =)
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Video (click to play). |
After this revision, the procedure for tightening the rail is simplified so much that it’s not even interesting.
Article written: March 6, 2013
Set the steering wheel to the straight ahead position. When the parts of the steering mechanism are worn, knocks appear and the free play of the steering wheel increases. With the appearance of these signs, first check the tightness of the nuts securing the steering mechanism and other steering components, and then make sure that there are no backlashes in the joints of the steering rods and the intermediate steering shaft. To repair and adjust the steering mechanism, special tools and devices are required, so it is recommended that work be done in a specialized workshop. 1. From inside the passenger compartment, unscrew the nut of the coupling bolt of the universal joint of the intermediate shaft. Please note: there is a spring washer under the nut. 3. Disconnect both external tips from rotary levers (see subsection 6.4. for details). 4. Loosen the bolt and. 5. . Disconnect a wire of "weight" from a case of the steering mechanism. 6. Unscrew the two nuts of the stepladders securing the steering mechanism to the bracket on each side. 7. Please note that there is a flat washer under each nut. 8. Remove two nuts on each side of the bolts securing the steering bracket to the subframe. Please note that the nuts are self-locking. 9. Remove the bracket mounting bolts. 10. Lifting the steering mechanism, remove the bracket from under it. 11. Remove the drive gear shaft from the intermediate shaft universal joint yoke and remove the steering gear through the left wheel well. 12. Remove the two brackets of the bushings of the steering gear mounts. If necessary, knock them down with a beard. 13. Remove the two steering mount bushings.Replace torn or loose bushings. 14. Before installing the steering mechanism, check that the stepladders fit freely into the holes in the bracket. Bend the ladders if necessary. 15. Align the marks on the steering box and boot. 16. Install the steering gear by inserting the drive gear shaft into the hole in the front end shield. 17. Reinstall the bracket and insert the left rear bracket mounting bolt into the holes of the bracket and subframe, since this cannot be done after connecting the shaft to the fork. Then. 18. . Have an assistant insert the gear drive shaft into the intermediate shaft universal joint yoke. Next, install the steering gear in the reverse order of removal. The article is still under development. Attention! I want to note that the information presented here is not a guide to car repair. This information is only an answer to the question: “How did I do it?”. The author of the material is not responsible for any consequences resulting from actions committed by persons guided by the material presented. I remind you once again that car repairs are potentially dangerous for human health and life. Therefore, when repairing a car, it is necessary to observe safety precautions, use a serviceable tool, be guided by official repair publications. Or it is necessary to contact specialized service stations. NEW! I filmed the assembly of the steering rack! I invite you to marvel at this address [https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3449/rul-oka/]. Posted November 01, 2004. I didn't have to take the whole rack apart. The fact is that I took a slightly loose connection of the cardan of the steering column and the splined end of the rack gear for the backlash of the “gear-rack” assembly. Just a loose bolt. So it needs to be controlled from time to time. The gap in the rail was normal and I did not bother him once again. By the way, it should be noted that the rack-and-pinion steering design is relatively reliable. On my first car AZLK 2141, the rail went 160,000 km (8 years) and has never been disassembled, adjusted or lubricated. Of course, this is not good, but still. Installation. As a rule, installation (careful) takes longer than dismantling. It took an hour to remove it, two hours to reassemble and lubricate the hinges, and two hours to install the rail. I screwed locknuts on the rods. The tips, together with the fist levers, had to be removed, since it was not possible to screw the rod into the tip in place with a small key for 10 - the hinge was too tight - and it took longer to disconnect the ball joint pin from the lever. I screwed the removed tips onto the rods (along with the levers). The rack was carefully pushed into place. I secured the fist rods, attached the rack to the transverse bracket and screwed the subframe into place, making sure that the splined tail of the gear correctly entered the boot hole in the floor. The hardest part for me was getting the steering wheel right. So that the steering wheel spoke is horizontal and at the same time the marks of the middle position of the rail coincide. A year and a half ago, for the first time, I somehow managed to do it alone. In this case, it was necessary not to damage the wiring and make sure that any connectors were not disconnected. At the same time, I managed not to remove the steering column. After a two-day running-in of the steering rack, I corrected the suspension angles. This time by myself. 🙂 As it turned out, the occupation is useful and not so troublesome. The engine in the Oka is attached at three points. For me, the first is at the location of the generator, in front. The second is in the gearbox shank.The third is at the location of the oil filter. They are tripled quite simply. The engine is attached to the subframe. The engine has threaded holes for attaching brackets. Rubber-metal elastic elements resembling silent blocks are pressed into the brackets. A bushing is pressed into the elastic element, with the help of which it is fastened by means of one long bolt to the brackets welded onto the subframe. The first two supports (the front one, which is under the generator and for one it performs the functions of its fastening and the second one, which is on the gearbox) I changed on the ground. To replace the gearbox shank support, I only needed to lift the gearbox up (for example, with a jack), unscrew the support fastening nuts (bracket with pillow assembly), unscrew the support mounting bolt nut to the subframe and calmly remove it, and put on a new one, and then put fasteners and tighten the nuts. To replace the front support, I had to remove the front end decor (radiator grille) and bumper, as well as the generator itself. Things just went faster in this case and the hands with the tool were applied at the right angle. But I had to squirm a little with the rise of the power unit in order to get to the bolt of the support to the engine. In general, the problem is solved. (however, without the use of a set of heads, nothing would have happened.) It would be nice to change the rear support in the pit. but by the will of fate it had to be changed on the floor (warm boxing is great!). Although everything turned away from the floor. It’s almost impossible (almost) to crawl with heads here. But everything turns away well with ring keys. However, I had to remove the oil filter. He interfered with the removal of the support. Support took out on top, dragging her out of the hood. And I unscrewed all its fasteners (two bolts of fastening to the engine and one to the subframe) from below. If we analyze the time spent on replacing the supports, then a couple - three hours of measured good work is worth it. Set the steering wheel to the straight ahead position. When the parts of the steering mechanism are worn, knocks appear and the free play of the steering wheel increases. With the appearance of these signs, first check the tightness of the nuts securing the steering mechanism and other steering components, and then make sure that there are no backlashes in the joints of the steering rods and the intermediate steering shaft. To repair and adjust the steering mechanism, special tools and devices are required, so it is recommended that work be done in a specialized workshop. 1. From inside the passenger compartment, unscrew the nut of the coupling bolt of the universal joint of the intermediate shaft. Please note: there is a spring washer under the nut. 3. Disconnect both external tips from rotary levers (for more details see subsection 6.4.). 4. Turn away a bolt of fastening and. 5. . Disconnect a wire of "weight" from a case of the steering mechanism. 6. Turn away on two nuts of ladders of fastening of the steering mechanism to an arm from each party. 7. Note that there is a flat washer under each nut. 8. Turn away from each party on two nuts of bolts of fastening of an arm of the steering mechanism to a stretcher. Please note that the nuts are self-locking. 9. Take out bolts of fastening of an arm. 10. Lifting the steering mechanism, remove the bracket from under it. 11. Remove the drive gear shaft from the intermediate shaft universal joint yoke and remove the steering mechanism through the left wheel niche. 12. Remove two brackets of bushings of support of the steering mechanism. If necessary, knock them down with a beard. 13. Remove two bushings of a support of the steering mechanism. Replace torn or loose bushings. 14. Before installing the steering gear, check that the ladders fit freely into the bracket holes. Bend the ladders if necessary. 15. Align the marks on the steering box and dust boot. 16. Install the steering mechanism by inserting the mechanism drive gear shaft into the opening of the bulkhead shield. 17.Reinstall the bracket and insert the left rear bracket mounting bolt into the holes of the bracket and subframe, since this cannot be done after connecting the shaft to the fork. Then. eighteen. . Have an assistant insert the gear drive shaft into the intermediate shaft universal joint yoke. Next, install the steering gear in the reverse order of removal. 1. Description of the car 1.0 Description of the car 1.1 Appearance 1.2 Engine compartment 1.3 General data 1.4 Specifications 1.5 Passport data 1.6 Doors 1.7 Hood lock 1.8 Luggage compartment 1.9 Luggage compartment expansion 2. Safety requirements 2.0 Safety requirements 2.1 Safety requirements 2.2 Preparing the car for operation 2.3 What you need to have in the car 2.4 Operating the car during the warranty period 2.5 Breaking in the car 2.6 Preparing the car for departure 2.7 Checking the wheels 2.8 Checking the coolant level 2.9 Checking the oil level in the engine crankcase 3. Maintenance 3.0 Maintenance 3.1 Cooling system leak test 3.2 Cooling system leak test 3.3 Power system leak test 3.4 Brake system leak test 3.5 Coolant change 3.6 Thermostat function test 3.7 Engine oil and oil filter change 3.8 Air filter element replacement 3.9 Removal and installation of the air filter 4. Vehicle storage 4.0 Vehicle storage 4.1 Maintenance during storage 4.2 Removal from storage 5. Chassis 5.0 Chassis 5.1. Front suspension 5.2. Rear suspension 6. Steering 6.0 Steering 6.1 Steering wheel removal and installation 6.2 Steering intermediate shaft replacement 6.3 Steering shaft bearing replacement 6.4 Tie rod end and ball joint boot replacement 6.5 Steering gear removal and installation 6.6 Tie rod replacement 7. Brake system 7.0 Brake system 7.1. The forward brake mechanism 7.2. The back brake mechanism 7.3. Brake system drive 7.4. Parking brake 8. Electrical equipment 8.0 Electrical equipment 8.1. Block of fuses and relays 8.2. Generator 8.3. Ignition system 8.4. Lighting and signaling 8.5. A combination of devices 8.6. Switches and switches 8.7. Wipers and washers 8.8 Replacing the cooling fan motor 9. Body 9.0 Body 9.1 Removal and installation of the front buffer 9.2 Removal and installation of the rear buffer 9.3 Replacing the front wing 9.4 Removal and installation of the radiator lining 9.5. Hood 9.6. Side door 9.7. Back door 9.8. Rear-view mirrors 9.9. Seats 9.11. heater 10. The engine and its systems 10.0 The engine and its systems 10.1 Setting the piston of the first cylinder to the TDC position of the compression stroke 10.2 Adjusting the clearances in the valve drive 10.3. A belt of a drive of a camshaft 10.4. Replacement of details of consolidation of the engine 10.5. A head of the block of cylinders 10.6 Removal and installation of the power unit 10.7. Engine repair 10.8. Lubrication system 10.9. Cooling system 10.10. Power system 10.11. Exhaust system 11. Transmission 11.0 Transmission 11.1. Transmission 11.2. Coupling 11.3. Front wheel drives 12. Appendices 12.0 Appendices 12.1 Appendix: Tightening torques for threaded connections 12.2 Appendix: Fuels, lubricants and operating fluids 12.3 Appendix: Basic data for adjustments and control 12.4 Appendix: Filling volumes 12.5 Appendix: Lamps used in a car 12.6 Appendix: Bearing arrangement 12.7 Appendix: Oil seals 12.8 Appendix: Service book 12.9 Appendix: Vehicle wiring diagram PPS Instrumental control of the rail passed 🙂 At the MOT with the help of the Measuring Tool “Police Boot” it was found that there are no backlashes in the rail Open an online store today! 2x2CMS Oki valve adjustment procedure The procedure for adjusting the Oki valves is as follows. At the beginning, we set the crankshaft and camshaft according to the marks, then we adjust the gap in the first valve, turn the crankshaft 90 degrees, set it in the second, turn it 90 degrees again, adjust it in the fourth, turn it again, and adjust the third. The gaps in the outlet should be 0.35 in the outlet 0.25 mm. When replacing the fuel pump VAZ 2107-2199, you need to pay attention to the protrusion of the pusher from the heat-insulating spacer. This distance should be 0.8-1.3 mm. If this is not the case, then, with a large output of the pusher, excess fuel pressure will be created, with a smaller one, there will not be enough fuel at load. Arrows of instruments suddenly froze on the way. What to do if the speedometer does not work, does not show the temperature, it is not clear how much fuel. What to do? Check the fuses listed in the owner's manual. But it was not there. Everything is whole. And fuse number 6, which is responsible for carrying, is to blame for everything. This was the intention of the manufacturer. Work on extracting the steering rack is carried out "above the pit". In terms of time, the whole process, together with all the preliminary steps, is a little over 40 minutes. Unscrewing a couple of bolts that attach the lever to the knuckle and removing the rack with this steering lever is easy, but it’s even easier to remove the whole thing without touching the end hinges at all. We will describe the last option. Initially, one of the front wheels is removed in order to completely remove the rack. With a key of 19, the lock nuts are further lowered, after which the rods are unscrewed from the tips with a key of 10. Only after that it is already possible, while in the cabin, to loosen the fastening of the clamp responsible for the steering shaft towards the gear of the repaired rack. Next, the bolts on which the subframe is attached to the body are carefully unscrewed. In order for your subframe to lower to the desired level, namely, to hang on the gearshift levers, you should perform appropriate actions with a crowbar from the passenger compartment to free the rack shank. Now you have the opportunity to release the rail from the side. Disconnect the steering rack from the bracket using a thirteen mm socket wrench. The ladders should be pushed to the upper side, the end of the gear of this rack is removed from the corrugation, and the rack itself is removed where the wheel is missing. For further steps, you will need octagonal socket wrenches. Remove the duster. From the support nut of the hinge you have discovered, the lock nut should be unscrewed, the support, together with the rod, is also unscrewed from the steering one, the stop spring, together with the stop itself, is removed, and finally the lock nut is removed. Having lubricated the whole thing, you can spin it back. Locknuts are screwed onto the ends of the rail, springs are inserted into the holes nearby, followed by ceramic-metal stops, after which we put the support nut on the rod. In order for the support to spin to the end, the thrust should be swung in different directions, twisting the support with it onto the end of the rail. The cam arms must be removed so that they do not interfere with assembly. Reinstall the tie rod. Insert the steering rack back the way it was and do not neglect accuracy in this difficult matter. Make sure that each element enters its place correctly. The hardest part is setting the steering wheel in the correct position. It is important not to damage anything here. Photo report on the assembly and disassembly of the steering rack of the Oka car: Before disassembling the steering rack of the Oka car, it should be removed from the car. Removal work is carried out on a flyover or lift. The process is not complicated, so everything will take less than one hour, including preparatory work. The rail can be removed in two ways: together with the steering knuckle lever, or without tips at all. Disassembly-assembly of the steering rack is often not worth doing completely. Sometimes it is enough to perform some operations.For example, remove the gaps in the hinges and lubricate. Disassembly adjustment is carried out using special socket wrenches with an octagonal head. A set of keys from the VAZ 2108 is quite suitable. Having removed the corrugation, you can see the hinge itself, the device of which is described in detail in the repair manual. The device is quite simple. For disassembly, the lock nut is unscrewed from the support nut, then the support is unscrewed from the rail along with the rod. The emphasis is removed along with the spring and the lock nut is removed. The assembly is carried out in the following sequence: locknuts are screwed onto the ends of the rail, springs are installed in the holes at the ends of the rail, and behind them - ceramic-metal stops. The support nut is put on the rod. Beforehand, it is worth lubricating all the parts well. Next, the support with traction is twisted onto the end of the rail. In this case, sometimes it is necessary to shake the thrust in different directions, otherwise it may not spin to the end. It is worth noting that the rack-and-pinion steering, which is installed in the Oka car, is quite reliable if it is adjusted in time. In such cases, complete disassembly is not required. However, if the steering mechanism fails, it is much easier to buy a new steering rack than to completely disassemble the old one and try to restore it. Without proper maintenance before failure, its repair will most likely not allow it to operate for a long time, and replacement will be inevitable. Repair shop "Auto-Rail" performs the replacement of steering racks VAZ (Lada) 1111 Oka. The price for it is based on a number of works. VAZ (Lada) is quite popular in our city. In all cars, the steering rack tends to deform. In this regard, an urgent repair should take place, otherwise the complication will spread to the hodovka. Call - service specialists will cure your steel horse. Extras: the car is on the move! about good. . . steering rack replacement, steering tips, not bad Velcro rubber, heating 220v, music, about the bad. . . poured flush into the tank and blunted a little, that is, sneeze puffs and smokes. . . and so it runs. . . on the body are not large cottages in the photo can be seen. . not a big bargain for beer. .for cash a good bargain.. The article is still under development. Attention! I want to note that the information presented here is not a guide to car repair. This information is only an answer to the question: “How did I do it?”. The author of the material is not responsible for any consequences resulting from actions committed by persons guided by the material presented. I remind you once again that car repairs are potentially dangerous for human health and life. Therefore, when repairing a car, it is necessary to observe safety precautions, use a serviceable tool, be guided by official repair publications. Or it is necessary to contact specialized service stations. NEW! I filmed the assembly of the steering rack! I invite you to marvel at this address [https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3449/rul-oka/]. Posted November 01, 2004. I didn't have to take the whole rack apart. The fact is that I took a slightly loose connection of the cardan of the steering column and the splined end of the rack gear for the backlash of the “gear-rack” assembly. Just a loose bolt. So it needs to be controlled from time to time. The gap in the rail was normal and I did not bother him once again. By the way, it should be noted that the rack-and-pinion steering design is relatively reliable.On my first car AZLK 2141, the rail went 160,000 km (8 years) and has never been disassembled, adjusted or lubricated. Of course, this is not good, but still. Installation. As a rule, installation (careful) takes longer than dismantling. It took an hour to remove it, two hours to reassemble and lubricate the hinges, and two hours to install the rail. I screwed locknuts on the rods. The tips, together with the fist levers, had to be removed, since it was not possible to screw the rod into the tip in place with a small key for 10 - the hinge was too tight - and it took longer to disconnect the ball joint pin from the lever. I screwed the removed tips onto the rods (along with the levers). The rack was carefully pushed into place. I secured the fist rods, attached the rack to the transverse bracket and screwed the subframe into place, making sure that the splined tail of the gear correctly entered the boot hole in the floor. The hardest part for me was getting the steering wheel right. So that the steering wheel spoke is horizontal and at the same time the marks of the middle position of the rail coincide. A year and a half ago, for the first time, I somehow managed to do it alone. In this case, it was necessary not to damage the wiring and make sure that any connectors were not disconnected. At the same time, I managed not to remove the steering column. After a two-day running-in of the steering rack, I corrected the suspension angles. This time by myself. 🙂 As it turned out, the occupation is useful and not so troublesome. The engine in the Oka is attached at three points. For me, the first is at the location of the generator, in front. The second is in the gearbox shank. The third is at the location of the oil filter. They are tripled quite simply. The engine is attached to the subframe. The engine has threaded holes for attaching brackets. Rubber-metal elastic elements resembling silent blocks are pressed into the brackets. A bushing is pressed into the elastic element, with the help of which it is fastened by means of one long bolt to the brackets welded onto the subframe. The first two supports (the front one, which is under the generator and for one it performs the functions of its fastening and the second one, which is on the gearbox) I changed on the ground. To replace the gearbox shank support, I only needed to lift the gearbox up (for example, with a jack), unscrew the support fastening nuts (bracket with pillow assembly), unscrew the support mounting bolt nut to the subframe and calmly remove it, and put on a new one, and then put fasteners and tighten the nuts. To replace the front support, I had to remove the front end decor (radiator grille) and bumper, as well as the generator itself. Things just went faster in this case and the hands with the tool were applied at the right angle. But I had to squirm a little with the rise of the power unit in order to get to the bolt of the support to the engine. In general, the problem is solved. (however, without the use of a set of heads, nothing would have happened.) It would be nice to change the rear support in the pit. but by the will of fate, it had to be changed on the floor (warm boxing is great!). Although everything turned away from the floor. It’s almost impossible (almost) to crawl with heads here. But everything turns away well with ring keys. However, I had to remove the oil filter. He interfered with the removal of the support. Support took out on top, dragging her out of the hood. And I unscrewed all its fasteners (two bolts of fastening to the engine and one to the subframe) from below. If we analyze the time spent on replacing the supports, then a couple - three hours of measured good work is worth it. We wash and inspect the parts of the steering mechanism - we replace the damaged ones. The ball bearing must rotate without binding. Protective covers and caps must be free of cracks and breaks. The ball spheres of the inner tip, the spheres of the ball joint and the thrust stops must not show signs of wear and damage. When assembling, we press the roller bearing with a soft metal drift. We combine the protrusions of the rack bushing with the depressions of the steering gear housing and press the bushing through a suitable section of the pipe. Copiously lubricated the teeth of the rack, drive gear and bearings with FIOL-1 grease. assemble the knot in reverse order. Having tightened the ball joints so that the inner tips can swing (in the absence of gaps), we screw the locknut belt into the groove of the ball joint and into the groove of the rail. Install the protective cover. The boot on the inner rod end should be located 195 mm from the end of the threaded end of the rod end. Install the clamp and tighten it slightly. The clamp will be finally tightened after adjusting the toe-in. Steering:   Steering - safety (steering shaft with two cardan joints) with a gear-rack type mechanism.   Steering gear assembled with steering rods is attached in the engine compartment through rubber cushions and clamps to the support, and that, in turn, to the subframe.   Steering gear housing - Cast aluminum alloy. It has a drive helical gear on two bearings, which is in constant engagement with the rack. The front bearing (at the end of the drive gear) is roller, the rear (closer to the steering shaft) is ball bearing. From axial movement, the shaft is fixed through a ball bearing: its inner race is held on the shaft by a retaining ring, and the outer race is pressed against the end of the bearing seat in the steering gear housing with a nut on the drive gear shaft. The nut is covered with a protective cover (anther) mounted on the drive gear shaft.   Right (cylindrical) part of the rail rests on a plastic sleeve in the steering gear housing, and its toothed part is pressed against the drive gear by a spring through a stop sealed in the crankcase with a rubber ring. The spring, in turn, is pressed by an adjusting nut (internal octahedron “17”) with a retaining ring that creates resistance to its loosening. To compensate for the thermal expansion of parts and tolerances for their manufacture, a gap of 0.12 mm is set between the nut and the rail stop during assembly (the maximum allowable gap during operation is 0.2 mm), after which the crankcase thread is punched (knocked) at two points (without damaging nut) and apply paint marks that fix the position of the nut relative to the crankcase. The moment of resistance to rotation of the gear of a working steering mechanism in the entire travel range should be in the range of 6.1-17.3 kgf-cm (0.06-0.17 kgf-m) at a rotation speed of 30 min-1.   For lubrication drive gear, racks and gear bearings use FIOL-1 (approximately 20-30 g for the entire mechanism), and the cavity above the drive gear bearing nut (under the anther) is filled with UNIOL-1 grease.   At the ends of the rail internal hinges of the steering tips are installed, consisting of a ball joint and a lock nut screwed onto the threaded end of the rail, a thrust stop with a spring and a ball head of the inner tip. From the inside, the ball head is pressed by a spring-loaded ceramic-metal stop. The ball joint is fixed on the threaded end of the rail with a lock nut, which, in turn, is locked by pressing its belts into the grooves of the rail and the support. From the ingress of dust and dirt, the crankcase of the steering mechanism is closed by two rubber corrugated covers through which internal steering rods are passed.   on threaded ends the inner tie rod ends are screwed on the outer tie rod ends - also with a ball pin and a spring-loaded bushing. With their conical surfaces, the fingers enter the corresponding holes of the rotary lever.   By turning the inner rod relative to the outer one (screwing it in or out), the wheel toe-in is adjusted (see “Front suspension”). When rotating the inner rod, care must be taken that the protective cover is not twisted or torn. To do this, loosen the clamp. After adjustment, the connection is fixed with a lock nut.   steering shaft - composite, three-link (the lower link is a short splined tip worn on the drive gear of the steering mechanism), with two cardan joints. The upper (tubular) part of the shaft rests on two ball bearings installed in the bracket tube. On the conical splines of the upper end of the shaft, the steering wheel is fixed with a nut. Remove the steering gear (see subsection 6.5.). An increase in the free play of the steering wheel is possible due to wear of the parts of the ball joint of the steering rod. Be sure to replace the torn tie rod boot. Otherwise, dirt and water that get into the steering mechanism will quickly disable it. You can replace the cover without removing the steering gear from the car. 1. Loosen the outer tie rod end locknut. 2. Unscrew the tie rod end, counting the number of revolutions. This will help when installing the tip to approximately maintain the convergence of the wheels. 3. Loosen the tie rod end locknut. 4. Remove the clamps from the inner and. 5. . outer landing rims of the protective cover. 6. Carefully prying off with a screwdriver, remove the inner rim of the cover from the steering gear housing. 7. Remove the protective cover from the rod. 8. Loosen the collar of the ball joint locknut. 9. . by inserting a wrench between the locknut and the end of the crankcase to stop. 10. Loosen the locknut and. 11.. unscrew the ball joint from the steering rack (thus disconnecting the rod). 12. Remove the ball joint from the rod. 13. Remove the thrust stop from the hole in the rail and. 15. Remove dirt and old grease from the hole in the rail, as well as all removed parts. 16. Replace parts when worn or damaged spherical surfaces of the tie rod. 19. Replace a torn or loose protective cover. 20. Put 10 g of grease (manufacturer recommends CV joint-4) into the ball joint and hole in the rack. 21. Install the spring and thrust stop in the rack hole (with the spherical part out). 22. Install the ball joint on the rod and wrap it so that there is no play, but at the same time the rod turns freely in the support. 23. While holding the support from turning, tighten the locknut.
Author of the article, photo-video materials: 
The need to repair the steering rack arose when, after adjusting the angles of the front suspension, the protective dust covers were torn. They broke as a result of the fact that the young master, who regulates the convergence, twisted the rods together with the anthers and tore them. In addition, there was a slight play in the internal joints of the steering rods.
The need to repair the steering rack arose when, after adjusting the angles of the front suspension, the protective dust covers were torn. They broke as a result of the fact that the young master, who regulates the convergence, twisted the rods together with the anthers and tore them. In addition, there was a slight play in the internal joints of the steering rods.
1 – ball joint pin; 2 – an external tip of steering draft; 3 - locknut; 4 – an internal tip of steering draft; 5 - protective case; 6 – a support of the steering mechanism; 7 – a crankcase of the steering mechanism; 8 – a collar of fastening of the steering mechanism; 9 - rack bushing; 10 - cover clamp; 11 - spherical bearing; 12 - locknut; 13 - rail; 14 – a lock ring of a nut; 15 - stop nut; 16 – a sealing ring of an emphasis; 17 - spring; 18 - rail emphasis; 19 – roller bearing; 20 - drive gear; 21 – ball bearing; 22 – retaining ring; 23 - protective washer; 24 – a nut of fastening of the bearing; 25 - anther; 26 - sealing ring; 27 - stop spring; 28 - traction stop; 29 – shaft seal; 30 – an intermediate cardan shaft; 31 – top facing casing; 32 – an arm of fastening of a shaft of a steering column; 33 – bearings of a steering column; 34 - wheel; 35 - paddle switches; 36 – lower facing casing; 37 – a shaft of a steering column; 38 – a pipe of a steering column.
Video (click to play).
