Do it yourself Vectra steering rack repair

Zhora Kutepov 05 October 2010

Hello to all! I have an Opel Vectra A. The other day I noticed that a greasy beach appeared in the car under the steering wheel. Determined that this is a power steering fluid. I can not understand where to leak and why to the salon. Please help with advice on how to fix this.

well, it's all the same more antifreeze than a hydrach .. because it just can't flow into the cabin .. the rake outside the cabin only includes a shaft from which nothing can flow into the cabin because between the fact that a very long distance could flow .. see the stove ... otherwise soon winter will come steaming feet in antifreeze ..

here is a photo. will not penetrate from the upper oil seal into the salon ..

Border, Sergei, you're wrong.

for a start, all the same, the author needs to make sure that there is a leak on the oil seal .. because this is a rather rare thing ..

By the way, there was cocoa outside too. In the sense it flowed not only into the salon, but also outside.

Modified: Nazgul 06 Oct 2010 - 09:17

I guess I was just lucky .. that in my tests A (95 and 93 years) the oil seal never leaked. and friends like that did not complain about him .. and so that there was a side with the rail.

Yes, the leak was hefty. but it is unlikely to change without removing the rail it will work .. the oil seal is pressed from the inside, so you can hardly get off so easily and the primers write .. remove the rail and change the oil seals.

I guess I was just lucky .. that in my tests A (95 and 93 years) the oil seal never leaked. and friends like that did not complain about him .. and so that there was a side with the rail.

Maybe I was just unlucky. I mean, if the oil seal leaks (and at this age you shouldn't be surprised at this), then oil can still get into the salon.
Because of the oil under the rubber mat, the last one swelled a little and now it's like a bubble in the middle.
Modified: Nazgul 06 Oct 2010 - 09:26

Yes, the leak was hefty. but it is unlikely to change without removing the rail it will work .. the oil seal is pressed from the inside, so you can hardly get off so easily and the primers write .. remove the rail and change the oil seals.

The oil seal from the passenger compartment is also easy to change. At least on the rail that I have (they were kind of different). The retaining ring is removed, there is a washer under it, an oil seal under the washer. You need to change quickly, because after the old one is taken out, the oil begins to flow into the interior in a stream. But. It is necessary to remove the steering shaft. Whether it is possible to do this without removing the torpedo, I don’t know. It may be easier to remove the rail.

Maybe I was just unlucky. I mean, if the oil seal leaks (and at this age you shouldn't be surprised at this), then oil can still get into the salon.
Because of the oil under the rubber mat, the last one swelled a little and now it's like a bubble in the middle.

I had a friend on a Mazda 626 rail flowing outside in a stream. but I drove beckoning .. topped up .. because in Mazda it is not maintainable, unlike ours ..

The oil seal from the passenger compartment is also easy to change. At least on the rail that I have (they were kind of different). The retaining ring is removed, there is a washer under it, an oil seal under the washer. You need to change quickly, because after the old one is taken out, the oil begins to flow into the interior in a stream. But. It is necessary to remove the steering shaft. Whether it is possible to do this without removing the torpedo, I don’t know. It may be easier to remove the rail.

Vasily, you, as a specialist in this matter, could do this even in uncomfortable conditions, for the author of the topic it is still better to remove it and it will be easier for him, and the car will not flood with liquid, because fixing and correct installation of the oil seal is a troublesome business ..

Vasily, you, as a specialist in this matter, could do this even in uncomfortable conditions, for the author of the topic it is still better to remove it and it will be easier for him, and the car will not flood with liquid, because fixing and correct installation of the oil seal is a troublesome business ..

I'm not special at all. It's just that at that time I was changing the stove for a stove with a conder. When there is no torpedo, then remove the steering column with the shaft - 5 minutes. And then the oil seal is in full view.
Well, the liquid did not have to be drained. And the puddle was already there. I just covered it with rags and that's it.
Modified: Nazgul 06 Oct 2010 - 09:38

from the point of view of banal erudition, the steering shaft can be unscrewed (or rather, its body) from the longitudinal trapezoid and lowered down. then it will probably be possible to remove it ..

Well, yes, yes. How realistic this is is an open question.

Zhora Kutepov 08 October 2010

vercolub 08 October 2010

I had a play in the rail. knocked. its repair cost me 700 UAH (it was already withdrawn) and another plus 300 for replacing the oil seal and bushing in the GURAa pump. everything is OK) and plus another new boot 120 UAH or something like that

Hey! Great photo, and exactly the same symptoms as mine. What is your steering rack? I have the inscription “ZF” on the lid of the power steering fluid reservoir.

Kind of like a Canadian. The tank, I think, do not care.

if the rail is Canadian (one-piece boot) then the oil seal fits from some Sino-Japanese moped I bought 1 ye
to change, you just disassemble the plastic in the area of ​​the turn signals - you remove the clips from the holder of the turn signal wipers
squeeze out the damper between the rack and the shaft and the steering wheel to the rear seat.
remove the stopper-washer from the rail, screw the screw into the oil seal and. he is in hands
further in reverse order

So you can. It seems like even from the checkpoint of the Volga roofing felts, the Gazelle roofing felts the oil seal fits. I bought the most suitable one in the store. It seems not even a name.

remove the stopper-washer from the rail-screw the screw into the oil seal and ... he is in hands

After that, you need to act quickly, because oil will flow.

Damir 03 January 2011

Damir 04 January 2011

As a rule, repairing a removed rail with a hydraulic booster costs 900 UAH. This price includes work + repair kit, i.e. new oil seals and bushing. You can put the bush on your own, you can carve a caproloctane one, then you can forget about the rail 250 thousand. Oil and anthers, if necessary, are bought separately. If you bring a car and we will remove the rail ourselves, the price will increase by 200-800 UAH. depending on the complexity. In some cases, you have to do electroplating, if the stock is rusty, it costs another 600-700 UAH.

Damir 05 January 2011

That is, if everything is in order with the metal (there is no wear, no potholes), that is, the oil seals and the bushing just change - UAH 900?
How much time do you do?

It usually takes two days in time. If today you brought a rail, the next day a repair kit comes from Kiev.
This is due to the fact that the slats are made by the manufacturer with the expectation that they will not be repaired, i.e. there are practically no original oil seals, you have to dial in size and structure. If you are surprised by the high price, I explain: we put only high-quality oil seals that take care of a long time, and they are expensive. UAH 500 for such a repair kit - the usual price. ChNPP Hiton in Donetsk, for example, uses Kharkov-made oil seals, they are much cheaper, but they also run accordingly. A caproloctane bushing is stronger than a native plastic one, it costs within 100 UAH. It can be sharpened in 2 hours.
Modified: Damir, 05 Jan 2011 - 09:51

Your price is just normal.
We have 1500 worth

What sleeve? What's on the right?

Do you check it after assembly at the stand? 🙂

Damir 05 January 2011

Your price is just normal.
We have 1500 worth

What sleeve? What's on the right?

Do you check it after assembly at the stand? 🙂

Quite right, I mean the bushing on the right. After assembly, we do not check, because we do not have a stand yet. While the rack is being repaired, we can restore knocking ball, tips, steering rods along the way.

Damir 06 January 2011

I don't mean a cool dynamometer, but let's say a pump with an electric motor.
Or are you completely sure of the build quality and in general?

Kiev oil seals have never failed, and the rail, it either works or not. In principle, the rail can be checked without a stand.

rt821 17 January 2011

It usually takes two days in time. If today you brought a rail, the next day a repair kit comes from Kiev.
This is due to the fact that the slats are made by the manufacturer with the expectation that they will not be repaired, i.e.there are practically no original oil seals, you have to dial in size and structure. If you are surprised by the high price, I explain: we put only high-quality oil seals that take care of a long time, and they are expensive. UAH 500 for such a repair kit - the usual price. ChNPP Hiton in Donetsk, for example, uses Kharkov-made oil seals, they are much cheaper, but they also run accordingly. A caproloctane bushing is stronger than a native plastic one, it costs within 100 UAH. It can be sharpened in 2 hours.

Message Ollegg 06 Dec 2010 19:44

So I also decided to stay in the memory of the club with a photo report, coupled with some systematization and analysis of data on the Saginaw steering rack with power steering. Since I was told that the rail is rare and there is nothing on it, when I was looking for oil seals, I hope the information will be useful to someone else. There will be many letters.

Part 1. We disassemble.
the beginning of the parsing is well described by Yug (the rake is the same):
... 19 & t = 76862 and. ic = 10453.0
plus you can learn a lot in the topic “The steering rack is loose”:
... 19 & t = 63517
so at first I will repeat myself a little, but with my own pictures.

Further, I have not found the parsing process in detail anywhere by topic. To unscrew the hydraulic cylinder nut, you will need a large vice and a good gas wrench of at least 2 numbers. We clamp the rack body in a vice (it is possible without wooden gaskets, it is definitely clamped in only one position, and it is difficult to crush the body, if not overdo it) and without fanaticism, but confidently (tightly tightened) we turn the nut. My picture is no longer in a vice:

After that, the hydraulic cylinder, together with the rail, comes out of the body, we take it by the rail and, without fear, pull it out of the cylinder of the hydraulic cylinder. Here it is:

At the end of the rail we see a nut, unscrew it and sequentially remove the piston, bushing with oil seal and washer.

Now you need to knock out the cover-plug from the other side of the rail. This can be done either with a suitable fittings / pipe / crowbar or the rail itself with a bolt screwed into it. In the process of knocking out, the plug will most likely fall apart, and it will be necessary to knock out the rest:

You can remove the sleeve:

I did this with a long bolt and nut and two matching washers. The process, I think, is clear to those who have changed the wheel bearing at least once.
If the task is only to change the oil seals, then the plug and the bushing need not be knocked out!
So, disassembled rake:

I didn’t manage to figure out how to separate the shaft housing from the rack housing in order to get to the internal oil seal, it looks like it is pressed in and is somehow locked under plastic "seals", which are quite strong.

Based on the logic and design of the rail, this should be the most problem-free oil seal and does not flow through it, since there should not be high oil pressure in its area with serviceable shaft camshaft sealing rings (although, perhaps, I did not understand the device correctly):

here are a couple of links on the topic
... eniya.html

Part 3. Required spare parts.
In general, there was a kind of repair kit for this rail with the number 2075005 / S, but I could not get it - I could not find it in online stores, in the car market (Marshal on Zhukov) they threw up their hands. The city, of course, is big and you can probably buy somewhere, but you won't go everywhere.

So, the oil seal, which is in the bushing of the hydraulic tank, size 12x27x10, tricky, with a plastic bushing inside. On the oil seal 7849915 EP is written, I could only buy it separately at the car market, for as much as 600 rubles. I expected to buy an oil seal on the shaft in an RTI store (in the car market I was offered this for 700r). I had to roll up our sleeves and look for information. I came across that there is a Corteco oil seal with such dimensions under the number 19029807B (on Exist it costs about 350r). Most likely, it was sold to me (how many times did I promise to buy something on the Marshal.).
Also in the RTI store they picked up a ring on a sleeve, it cost a penny, an inner diameter of 28.5 mm. A bit thicker than necessary, but got up later without problems. So, an oil seal with a ring:

External shaft seal, marking on it IPC 26014746 size 20x40x6 (in fact, not 40, but 39.8 mm).By this number, Exist offers the Opel oil seal 0904588 (somewhere for $ 14), most likely what you need. I bought an oil seal with dimensions 20x40x7 in the RTI store, but I did not dare to install it by twisting it in my hands. According to the Corteco catalog, the following oil seals fall under this size (price in rubles for Exist):
19018211 BASL. 19.8 × 39.7 × 6.35 85r
12001157 BASLVI. 20x40x7 188p
12010826 BAD. 20x40x7 283p
12011118 BASL. 20x40x7 66p
I decided to buy the first oil seal, got up without problems, so the number 19018211B and a photo of all three (original / from the magician RTI / Corteco):

Further, instead of a broken plug, a new one is needed, fits from a rail without a G / U, Opel 0902554 or Chevrolet Daewoo 07849949 - Exist brought for 340 rubles, and as much as 200 ml of original Opel grease 1948588 for steering mechanisms for only 150 rubles:

If you need a boot, order by the Opel number 0902829 (on the boot itself, the GM number 26021070), if you need bearings, here are their markings and dimensions:
EMMM TCRR 09-53313 20 × 37.5 × 10
6200S NMB 10x30x8

Part 4. Putting everything back.
The assembly process proceeds in the reverse order. Before assembly, of course, everything needs to be cleaned and washed. To facilitate installation, we lubricate all the parts with ATF, and the teeth of the shaft and racks, plus the plunger and the lower shaft bearing, with the grease purchased above, or whatever you find. and we do not regret lubrication. We also remove the oil seal from the cylinder sleeve with two self-tapping screws, and press the new one using a bolt with a nut and two washers - everything turns out smoothly, easily and quickly. The ring also changes without problems, the photo before the replacement:

Before tightening the hydraulic cylinder nut, I screwed the pipelines into place, plus I made sure that the pre-set marks were aligned. The shaft, perhaps, will not fall into place right away - you will have to tinker. The upper shaft seal is carefully driven in using the upper washer and the old oil seal as a mandrel. For the boot, you will need two new clamps for a diameter of 65 mm, i.e. by 50-70.

We will show you how to quickly replace the steering rods and tips in an OPEL Vectra B with your own hands. As an example, we have a car produced in 2000 First of all, we remove two wheels and “hang” the car. We start with the steering tips, it is very easy to remove them, you need to unscrew the nut and knock on the fist with a hammer or use the tip puller if you have one.

Since we are changing the tips and rods, it will unscrew everything from the rail at once. Next, loosen the boot clamps and move the boot.

Video of replacement of steering rods and ends in OPEL Vectra B:

The work on replacing the steering rods and tips in the OPEL Vectra B is shown in the video in great detail and step by step, so that you can repeat everything with your own hands, all actions are commented so that you do not have any questions about this repair. It is best to perform all operations in a garage equipped with a viewing hole and a vice.

Removal, overhaul and installation of the steering mechanism

Assembling the steering gear

1 - the Epiploon
2 - the Screw (7 Nm)
3 - a spring washer
4 - the crankcase cover
5 - the O-ring
6 - the Sealing gasket
7 - Adjusting washers
8 - Ball bearing
9 - the Gear
10 - a toothed rack

11 - the Bushing
12 - the Lock ring
13 - the Carter of the steering mechanism
14 - Support washer
15 - the Spring
16 - Adjusting shims
17 - the Sealing gasket
18 - the Cover
19 - a spring washer
20 - Bolt (7 Nm)

Steering gear housing

1 - Cardan intermediate shaft of the steering rack
2 - Bolt (5 Nm)
3 - Protective sheet
4 - the Sealing gasket
5 - the Epiploon
6 - Nut (60 Nm)
7 - the End of the transverse tie rod
8 - the Lock ring
9 - a protective cover of the ball joint
10 - Ring
11 - Crown nut

12 - Cotter pin
13 - the Left steering rod
14 - the Clamp
15 - Protective cover
16 - Connecting link
17 - the Carter of the steering mechanism
18 - Rubber cushion
19 - the Collar of a rubber cushion
20 - Bolt (25 Nm)
22 - the Right steering rod

Power Steering Component Locations

1 - the Steering pump
2 - Tank

3 - Steering gear with distributor and power cylinder

Power steering gear

1 - Power cylinder
2 - Rack transmission
3 - the valve-distributor

4 - Tank
5 - the Steering pump

1 - Rotor
2 - Stator
3 - Housing

4 - the Cover
5 - Pulley flange
6 - the Safety valve

Models without power steering

The rack and pinion drive converts the steering column into movement of the rods that turn the steering wheels of the vehicle.

The steering box is made of aluminum alloy. The transmission consists of a pinion drive shaft and a toothed rack.

The steering gear shaft is equipped with a pinion and is installed in the rack and pinion housing in two bearings of the PLC 03-29 / 1 type. The shaft assembly is in constant engagement with a toothed rack rigidly connected to the steering rods. Rotation of the shaft causes the rack to move to the right or left. Together with the rack, the steering rods also move, forcing the front wheels of the car to turn.

The steering gear housing is closed from above with a cover fixed with two M6x20 bolts. The cover is installed on the gasket. A hole is provided in the middle of the crankcase through which the steering shaft drive shaft passes. In order to seal the assembly, a 17x28x7 oil seal is installed in the hole.

In order to select the backlash of the shaft bearings, adjusting washers with a thickness of 0.1 and 0.2 mm are used.

The side hole in the crankcase is also closed with a cover, which is fastened with two M6x20 bolts. A sealing gasket is installed under the cover. A bolt passes through the hole in the middle of the cover, designed to adjust the clearance in the engagement of the shaft with the gear rack. The position of the bolt is fixed with a lock nut. The required meshing clearance is maintained by a spring-loaded cracker and equipped with a 28x20 O-ring.

The right side of the steering box is a tube with a bushing seated inside. A toothed rack is placed in the sleeve. The ends of the rack are connected to the steering rods.

Protective rubber boots keep dirt out of the steering gear and prevent grease from filling the crankcase from leaking out.

The steering gear is attached to the bracket by a cross member of the front suspension beam on two rubber mounts that are installed in clips. Each of the clips is attached with two M8x20 bolts. Both the legs and the clips are different from each other (larger components are installed closer to the steering gear).

Power steering models

Power steering elements are manufactured by TRW Dusseldorf.

The system includes a rack and pinion steering gear integrated in one housing with a power cylinder and a control valve, a steering pump, a hydraulic fluid reservoir and connecting hydraulic lines.

The tie rods are somewhat shorter than those used on models with a manual steering gear. Full steering wheel travel (lock-to-lock) is 3.0 turns (versus 3.6 turns in manual models). The decrease in the number of shaft revolutions is associated with a lower gear ratio of the rack and pinion mechanism.

In view of the foregoing, in the event of a failure of the power steering system, the steering continues to work, however, it requires a lot of effort when making turns.

When the wheel hits an obstacle (for example, a curb or a stone), the control valve tends to move to the middle position, the fluid pressure decreases, and the effort on the steering gear increases. The driver tries to keep the wheels in the desired position; in this case, the distributor valve is displaced from the middle position and directs the fluid flow into the corresponding cylinder cavity, preventing the rail from moving. This provides feedback from the wheels to the driver.

The working path of the hydraulic booster system is filled with a special liquid Pentosin CHF 11 S in the amount of 0.9 l, which simultaneously serves as a lubricant for the components of the steering gear and pump. The hydraulic lines between the pump, control valve, power cylinder and hydraulic reservoir are made of metal pipes and rubber hoses. Each section is equipped with special nipples.

The main working element of the system is the steering vane pump. A rotor with movable plates rotates in a specially shaped stator.When the pump is operating, liquid enters from the vacuum side, enters the chamber formed by the rotor plates and stator walls. The volume of the chamber gradually decreases as the rotor turns, the pressure of the liquid increases and it begins to be pushed through the connecting line into the distributor valve. When the maximum allowable pressure is exceeded, a safety valve is triggered, which connects the working cavity with the vacuum chamber. In this case, the pressure drops abruptly. The maximum pump performance is achieved at a rotor speed of 500 to 700 rpm. The maximum head developed by the pump is 20 kPa. The pump is driven by a multi-ribbed belt, which is also used in parallel to drive the K / V compressor, generator and pump.

The power cylinder, combined with the steering gear and the distributor valve, is attached to the suspension cross member with M10x1.25 bolts (as opposed to M8 bolts in the case of a manual steering mechanism).

The power steering is equipped with diesel models and 1.6 liter petrol models. The only difference is in the route of the connecting lines.

1. In the passenger compartment, give back the fastening nuts and remove the foot stop assembly from the clutch pedal.

2. If appropriate, fold back the carpet, remove the screw and nut that secure the steering column base trim cover. Remove the cover to provide access to the lower propeller joint of the intermediate shaft.
3. Using paint or a marker, mark the position of the pivot in relation to the rack and pinion drive gear, then remove the pinch bolt of the pivot assembly.
4. Loosen the nuts, remove the washers and loosen the sealing plate and gasket installed around the drive gear.

A damaged gasket must be replaced.

5. Apply the parking brake firmly, then jack up the front of the vehicle and place it on the struts. Remove both front wheels.
6. Remove the cotter pins, then give the nuts securing the ends of the steering rods to the hub assemblies. Release the tips from the hub pivot arms - use a ball joint puller if necessary.

Models without power steering

1. Unscrew the fastening bolts and remove the steering gear clips from the subframe.
2. Separate the rack and pinion assembly from the intermediate shaft and remove it from under the vehicle. Remove the rubber mounts from the steering rack (pads are not interchangeable). Remove the sealing plate with the gasket from the passenger compartment.

Power steering models

1. To minimize the loss of hydraulic fluid, use special clamps or clamps to clamp the supply and return hoses near the reservoir of the steering pump.
2. After marking the connectors, unscrew the fitting bolts on the steering gear assembly (prepare a drain container to collect the leaking hydraulic fluid). Disconnect both hoses and remove the sealing washers.

During assembly, the sealing washers must be replaced without fail. Immediately plug open hose ends and steering housing openings to minimize hydraulic fluid loss and to prevent dirt from entering the system.

3. Release the hydraulic hoses from the intermediate clips and move them away from the steering assembly.
4. Unscrew the fastening bolts and remove the rack and pinion fastening clamps from the subframe.
5. Separate the rack and pinion assembly from the intermediate shaft and remove it from under the vehicle. Remove the rubber mounts from the steering rack (pads are not interchangeable). Remove the sealing plate with the gasket from the passenger compartment.

a) Remove the clamps for securing the rubber covers;
b) Bend the edges of the covers and drain the oil from the crankcase into a clean container;
c) Move the covers towards the ends of the steering rods;
d) Bend back the flats of the flat lock washers securing the nuts at the ends of the rack;
e) Using a screwdriver, bend the recess on the edge of the adapter sleeve in the rail groove;
f) Give back the nuts and disconnect from the thrust bar;
g) Unscrew the two bolts securing the side cover to the crankcase, remove the spring, cracker and rubber O-ring;
h) Remove the steering gear shaft with the upper bearing from the crankcase (clamp the shaft in a vice with soft jaws and pull on the crankcase; if necessary, use a soft hammer);
i) Using a puller, remove the bearing from the shaft;
j) Remove the gear rack from the steering box;
k) Using a special tool, remove the lower bearing from the crankcase.

8. After replacing faulty components, reassemble the mechanism:

Power steering models

1. Follow the procedures outlined in Removal.
2. Install new sealing washers on both sides of the hydraulic hose union, then install the union bolts and tighten to the required torque without removing the clamps / clamps from the hoses.
3. Reinstall the wheels, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the wheel bolts to the required torque.
4. Add fresh hydraulic fluid to the reservoir of the steering pump (see Section Removing air plugs from the hydraulic path of the power steering system).
5. Finally, check the angles of the front wheels, if necessary, make the appropriate adjustment (see Section Car wheel alignment angles - general information).

removal of the steering rack from the power steering Opel Vectra A, its further restoration or complete replacement!

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