DIY Volvo steering rack repair

In detail: do-it-yourself Volvo steering rack repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Volvo cars have been recognized as one of the safest in the world many times. An important element that ensures this safety is the correct operation of the steering rack - the main unit of the vehicle control mechanism. And, accordingly, any malfunctions in the operation of the steering rack can cause an accident. Therefore, the motorist needs to know what breakdowns are, what are their main signs and, most importantly, how the steering rack of Volvo cars is repaired.

Steering rack in a car performs the function of transferring the driver's effort to the steering wheel to the wheel rods. The rails of modern cars are complemented by amplifiers, mainly hydraulic and less often electric. Such amplifiers contribute to easier driving: the driver does not need to exert a lot of effort on the steering wheel, shocks and vibrations are not transmitted from the wheels to the steering wheel.

The design of the car's gear-rack includes the following elements:

Aluminum crankcase. Inside it is a cavity with special protection;
Spring. It serves to securely engage the pinion and steering rack teeth.
Gear wheel with drives. Mounted on bearings and located in the crankcase.
Sleeve and stop ring. Contributes to the steering rack travel at the desired interval.

The principle of operation of the Volvo steering rack is quite simple. The driver's efforts directed to the steering wheel are transmitted to the rack through the shaft and the gear, which is mounted on it. As a result, the rack moves in the right direction, the oil of the hydraulic booster is pumped through a system of pipelines and valves into the required cavity, making it easier to slide the steering rack.

Video (click to play).

The ability to identify faults in a car in time is, of course, very important, because a breakdown of the steering rack in the process of movement can provoke quite serious consequences - the car becomes uncontrollable.

It is recommended to periodically inspect the steering rack for the following signs of malfunction:

Reduction of hydraulic fluid in the reservoir. This may be due to wear on the packing glands.
Backlash when cornering or knocking on the steering rack. Probably, the ball joint or the rack teeth itself is worn out.
If you have to use a lot of force to turn the steering wheel, it may be the shaft was bent.
When driving on uneven roads, "Runout" of the steering wheel. In this case, check the handpieces for damage.
Oil stains under the car signal that the seals in the power steering cylinder are worn out or that the steering hoses need to be repaired.

Any of the listed signs should serve as a signal for repair work. In no case should you continue to drive in the car, especially at high speed.

There are several main reasons why a Volvo car's steering rack can fail.

Driving on uneven roads. Perhaps this is the main reason. Unfortunately, our roads really leave much to be desired, but if you have to drive on bad roads, you need to take care of your car. Otherwise, the driver will soon hear a knock on the steering rack on the Volvo.
Harsh accelerations when the steering wheel is in the extreme position. You can't do that. The movement should be smooth.
Frequent arrivals on curbs can also damage the car's rail.

Extreme care must be taken when diagnosing any faults in the steering mechanism.Turning the wheel, pulling the rods, and then shaking the rail itself is not a diagnosis, but a direct road to the breakdown of your car.

If you hear that something is knocking under the hood while driving, you need to stop the car and try to turn the steering wheel to the sides on a muffled car, thereby checking the free play of the steering wheel. Increased backlash can be a signal of a worn inside of the rail. If you hear a tapping at the extreme moments of the backlash, the problem may be in the steering tips.

After that, you can visually assess the condition of the steering rack by looking under the hood. It is also worth checking the rubber boots for damage.

Adjusting the steering rack only makes sense in the case of a small workout in the rack and a relatively weak backlash. On Volvo, you can tighten the steering rack, pressing the input shaft to the rail body. To do this, tighten the adjusting nut, thereby using a spring to press on the clamping sleeve.

This should be done very carefully, with smooth movements, checking the steering wheel travel and the presence of backlash in the process. But repairing a steering rack like this on a Volvo 850, for example, can be difficult. The hexagon-shaped adjusting nut in this model is located behind the subframe, which means that it will be impossible to get to it without removing the subframe.

In the event of any malfunctions in the steering mechanism, the car service employees increasingly began to suggest replacing the steering rack in a Volvo car, rather than repairing it. Thus, guaranteeing high quality and durability of the mechanism. But in cases where such a solution to the issue does not suit financially, you can try to carry out repairs.

How to repair the steering rack of Volvo cars, we will tell you on the example of the S60 model.

Repair of the steering rack of Volvo s80, xc90, 940, s40 is carried out according to the same principle.

Experienced motorists recommend constantly monitoring the general condition of the steering rack, in particular, pay attention to the protective anthers, and change them in time. Also, in order to avoid rapid wear of the hydraulic booster and an increase in the load on all elements of the steering gear and steering rack, you should not spin the engine when the steering wheel is in the extreme position. This can also cause a breakdown of the seal in the hydraulic booster or contamination of the entire system.

Read also: DIY cheap wall repair

It must be remembered that the best way to help avoid malfunctions and save money on repairs is preventive maintenance and checking the car. Replace worn parts on time. And if a trouble has occurred and repairs are inevitable, you should not postpone it "for later" and continue driving a car with a faulty steering rack, this can cause an accident.

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AND745

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asdf

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If it’s not difficult, would you be able to drop such an instruction to me too?
_________________
Volvo 740 B230BFT

Height 5-7 mm. And what is the diameter of the gland?

Interestingly, on N60 the oil seal will be the same in size?

The total amount, including removal and installation, turning bushings, buying oil seals, and all other delights, what is it? And how long did it take with the spare parts trips?

Added after 3 minutes
I just want to understand, understanding the difference between a repair budget and a replacement - how much security costs for you, your loved ones, definitely hanging by a thread thanks to the use of materials that, as you and your craftsmen it seemed, fit for restoration of working capacity steering gear.

If we raise the question of the cost of safety and the cost of repairing the steering mechanism, then I think that raising such a question is at least correct. We are not talking about in-house manufacturing of the mechanical part. we are talking about OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT. You don’t get a new engine if you have a frontal or root oil seal drip, you just change them.

Added after 9 minutes
P.S. All the work cost me around 2000t.r. (Made by friends) At the very beginning someone wrote that for this he gave 20000t.r. In Moscow. I don’t know how much it costs now. In Krasnoyarsk, only for the repair of the rail they take from 8000 to 18000, depending on the complexity of the repair.

Tom90, not only the oil seal, bushings that wear out, as you wrote, too.

Anyway. Your right. The price tag is humane. The given prices for the repair of the rail are comparable with the used one (cheaper) and with the new one (rebuild in the factory) - more expensive by ten-tag somewhere

crazytosh, Please participate in the discussion on the thread https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/884/showthread.php?p=882587#post882587
starting from 51 posts. Your opinion is very important to me. Vlad XC90.

Added after 3 minutes
Vicc67, it is not convenient to take you away from another topic. But your opinion is also very important to me: https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/884/showthread. 587 # post882587 since the 51st post.
Thanks in advance ! Vlad XC90.

Wh1te, I think it should not be so. Bad bulkhead.

Added after 1 minute
Imagine: if the gearbox is not an automatic gearbox, you are going downhill at speed, the engine is idling, the gearbox is in neutral, you are entering a turn, and.

Good day to the readers, the question is if someone definitely knows how things are now with the repairs of the xs90 2.5t rail. The other day I noticed drops of gur liquid on the floor near the front right wheel, sadly, the rail did not knock .. You cannot get to the lift yet, but the liquid apparently does not leave much, the level in the tank has not dropped noticeably.
What is most appropriate:
1. Replace the current oil seal, if it is, and restrict ourselves to that (but it seems unlikely that there is wear on one oil seal, and others are not on the way)
2. Perform overhaul of the rail (how is it done now? For how long is enough.)
3. Buy a new rail of some zzvf, ruei, gs at a price of 27 tr. (how long do these go?)

The rail with the ka number on the sticker of my rail costs 101 tr. Vida offers a different number as a replacement for this old number, and this replacement costs 75 tr.
Bosch rail is offered as a replacement. costs 51 tr.

Is it worth bothering with repairs at all, after repair the rail leaves at least 50 thousand before knocking or leaking? Should you buy zzvf, ruei, gs or this discarded money? (Are these reiki a rebuild of the original by any chance?)

@Crio, only today repaired at the Neva plant

repair 20800, sorted out the rail, replaced the Offtopic crosspiece

, oil, however, sentenced the pump, new 21000, plus 3 replacement. While I'm thinking what to do

Repair of the TRW / CAM steering rack

Information is shared by alex.ekt + my addition.

Complete TRW Steering Rack Repair Report. If you have a rail as in the picture.

... then my information will be useful to you. I will not talk about the process of removing the steering rack from the car.
Before disassembling, you must purchase the repair kit shown in the following figure:

It includes:
1) clamps,
2) oil seals rails,
3) rubber and fluoroplastic rings on the rail,
4) inner shaft seal,
5) 4 PTFE shaft rings,
6) outer oil seal and shaft boot,
7) an O-ring of a plastic sleeve.

We start repairing. The rack is removed, cleaned of dirt and oil and is ready for disassembly. We remove the corrugated anthers and unscrew the steering rods:

Using a special wrench (made from a suitable tube), loosen the adjusting nut:

Using a screwdriver, pick out and remove the boot from the shaft:

Using a punch or a screwdriver, we knock out the plug:

... and knock out the shaft from the side of the nut using a soft punch:

ATTENTION. Before knocking out the shaft, we notice its position relative to the rail. Remove the oil seal, plastic sleeve and PTFE rings from the shaft.

When repairing my rack, the aforementioned plastic bushing installed on top of the “worm” shaft needed to be replaced, instead of it a needle bearing from the steering rack was installed. if memory serves from the Passat B3.

We take out the inner shaft seal. If you wish, you can remove the bearing retaining ring and take it out (I did not remove it).

Due to the fact that the bearing had a significant backlash, I replaced it with a bearing of a suitable size from a domestic manufacturer.

You can also knock the pin out of the shaft and disassemble it, but this is not necessary, there is simply nothing to break there.

We proceed to dismantle the rail. We turn the caprolan end sleeve counterclockwise, the retaining ring will be unscrewed through the oval hole.

After the retaining ring comes out completely, you can dismantle the rail. To do this, simply pull out the rail towards the sleeve. We take out the rail along with the bushing and the oil seal:

Remove the bushing, oil seal, PTFE and rubber rings. I took out the inner oil seal with an ordinary wire hook, but I did it carefully. We take out the inner oil seal and the support plastic sleeve. That's it, the disassembly stops there.

We proceed to troubleshooting and assembly. All items are carefully washed. We examine the rail. The working surface should be free from defects and scratches.

Even if you have minor seizures and shells like in the following photo.

... then grinding can help, because of this sink I had to grind the rail for 1.5 hundred parts in places, the next almost 3 years of operation, before the sale of the car, I did not experience any problems with the rail, the new owner too. As for the end caprolan bushing, it was worn out and was a source of knocking, the rack was pushed in the bushing stretching the oil seal, it was justified for me to grind it out of the caprolan on a lathe.

To check the shaft, it is necessary to carefully clamp the working splines of the rack, and check the elastic displacement of the upper part, turning to the right and left at an angle of 5 degrees relative to the middle position. This turn in one direction or the other ensures the performance of the steering rack. If this is not the case, then it is necessary to additionally disassemble the shaft by knocking out the pin. As I said, there is nothing to break there.

We put in place the inner support sleeve and the oil seal in the rack housing. Press in the oil seal using a head of a suitable diameter with an extension. We change the rubber ring and fluoroplastic on the rail, change the rubber ring on the plastic sleeve (Photo 12).

We grease everything with oil and put it in place. We put the retaining ring of the plastic sleeve in place by turning the sleeve clockwise, cover the oval hole with a sealant. If the shaft bearing was removed, then we put it in place and put the bearing retaining ring.

ATTENTION. While the shaft is without PTFE rings, it is necessary to try to put it in place. The fact is that when the shaft is installed in place, it scrolls counterclockwise by a certain angle. Therefore, before installation, it must be turned clockwise by this angle. This angle must be remembered!

We install the inner shaft seal in the rack housing. We put fluoroplastic rings on the shaft. The rings were preheated on a battery. We put it neatly, but confidently. The rings are strong (try to break the old ones with your hands). After installation, the rings stretch and must be squeezed. To do this, we make a crimp of a suitable diameter from a tin (can). I crimped and fixed the crimp in a vice for 5-10 hours to give the rings their original condition. After compression, grease with oil, turn the shaft to the required angle and put it in place, gently tapping with a hammer.It is advisable to do this operation the first time. Fluoroplastic rings do not tolerate dismantling and installation several times. We tighten the shaft nut.

We put grease and put a plug:

We put in place the plastic shaft sleeve, press in the oil seal, put the retaining ring (Photo 6).

We put a boot on the shaft and press it into place. Lubricate the rail. We adjust the gap between the rail and the shaft (Photo 4).

We fasten the steering rods, fix them with a core and put on the corrugated anthers. That's it, the rail is ready to be installed on the machine. We put it on, connect the hoses, fill in the liquid, pump the system and enjoy the work of the power steering.

First of all, you need to raise the motor a little. This is necessary in order to relieve the supports. This is done using beams or corners.

If the machine is equipped with an airbag, then the position of the wheels should be the same as when driving on a straight section.

After jacking up the car and giving additional support, proceed to remove the wheels.

Remove the rod ends from the swing arms. It is advisable to measure the length of the rod from the hinge to the rail.

Then remove the mudguards and engine protection located under the crankcase.

Remove the brackets that hold the piping.

Unscrew the steering column mounting to the steering gear shaft.

Place a jack under the steering arm bolts and gently knock them out.

Remove the nuts securing the rail to the subframe.

Lift the subframe at the rear.

Unbolt the subframe to the body.

After turning them out, remove the washers.

Unscrew the bolts in the front by a centimeter and a half. Then lower the rear section of the subframe.

The rack pins should come out of the subframe.

Place a container under the node and disconnect the tubes.

Remove the bolt securing the rail to the motor support.

The hinge must be pushed out of the bipod.

Everything, you can remove the rail itself.

Installation is done in reverse order, with the tie rods in the same position as when they were removed - that's why they were measured at the beginning).Every driver knows that the steering rack (or gearbox) is one of the weakest points of any car. And her weakness is not in the lack of the proper quality, but in the fact that it is she who takes on all the burdens of driving. Sharp jerking when cornering, pits and holes in the asphalt, constant load - all this inevitably deforms the rail over time. Such a breakdown is not so easy to fix on the road, for example, like a leaking radiator.The gearbox is the connecting mechanism between the steering wheel and the wheels. It is she who makes the wheel turn when maneuvering with the steering wheel. Therefore, the importance of periodic diagnostics and timely repair of your Volvo steering rack is undeniable.The signals can be completely different. So, for example, the knock of the rail, which gives off vibration to the steering wheel, is a clear sign of a breakdown. If you feel that from a certain moment more effort is required to turn the steering wheel than before, again the gearbox may be the cause. In the presence of a hydraulic booster, extraneous noises may also appear there due to its malfunction.And also, if a backlash is felt during the rotation of the wheel - again the same reason. Another signal will appear in the form of oil leakage from the gearbox.

If such signals are found, do not hesitate with diagnostics. After all, a faulty steering rack can give up positions at any moment, and then, at best, you simply will not be able to move on. And at worst - the car can skid on the road in any direction.

If the car is on the road and you are unable to deliver it to the service center, then you can try to do the repair yourself. But please note that such a "home-made" repair of the Volvo steering rack should be carried out only in order to get to the nearest service. There is no need to hope for a favorable outcome if, after the repair, the car is back on the move. It is possible that the defects you missed did not appear immediately. All the same, the mechanism needs a professional inspection.So, you need to start by disassembling the gearbox. But first, you need to remove it. If the car has protection, we get rid of it. Now we remove the heat-insulating rail plate and unscrew the fasteners. Everything is ready, the gearbox can be removed.

We advise you to remove the steering rack together with the rods, so it will be easier to put on the anthers later.

Now you need to disassemble the rail into parts in order to clean them from dirt and plaque. It consists of three parts: a gear shaft, a spool mechanism and a support sleeve. After a detailed analysis, we thoroughly rinse all the parts, wipe them and inspect them for damage. Any deformed or chipped parts must be replaced urgently. Most likely, you will need to replace the oil seals, seals or bushings. Damaged gears are a more serious defect. In such cases, a complete replacement of the mechanism is required.After that, we assemble the mechanism back and insert it into the car. Now, if possible, it is necessary to carry out a similar collapse, and then visit a service for a professionalThe steering rack is a problematic part of many cars. It wears out quickly due to the poor quality of the road surface and careless driving. If you often drive your Volvo out of town on dirt roads, be prepared to repair the steering.To replace the steering rack on a Volvo S60, you need standard automotive tools - wrenches and sockets of different sizes. It is best to always carry them with you in order to be able to quickly troubleshoot.It is most convenient to carry out work in the pit, but you can change the part on the street. Then you will need some jacks or wooden props.In the process, you will need to clean the mechanisms on the bottom of the car; for this, prepare dry rags, rags and WD-40. It is recommended that you wash your car before starting repairs.Place the machine on a level surface. Weather permitting, you can work outside or in a well-ventilated garage. Set the parking brake and place bricks under the rear wheels. Now you can be sure that the car is securely fixed.Place the wheels in a straight position and loosen the fasteners. Jack up the car and remove the front wheels. Place supports under the body. Clean the steering end bolts with WD-40 fluid. Wait for it to eat away at the rust. You can use a wire brush for cleaning.Remove the battery, remove the alarm siren and gas adsorber under the hood. The steering rack is now free to access.