Do-it-yourself Volvo steering rack repair

In detail: do-it-yourself Volvo steering rack repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Volvo cars have been recognized as one of the safest in the world many times. An important element that ensures this safety is the correct operation of the steering rack - the main unit of the vehicle control mechanism. And, accordingly, any malfunction in the operation of the steering rack can cause an accident. Therefore, the motorist needs to know what breakdowns are, what are their main signs and, most importantly, how the steering rack of Volvo cars is repaired.

Steering rack in a car performs the function of transferring the driver's effort on the steering wheel to the wheel rods. The rails of modern cars are supplemented by amplifiers, mainly hydraulic and less often electric. Such amplifiers contribute to easier driving: the driver does not need to exert a lot of effort on the steering wheel, shocks and vibrations are not transmitted from the wheels to the steering wheel.

The design of the gear rack of the car includes the following elements:

Aluminum crankcase. Inside it is a cavity with special protection;
Spring. It serves for reliable engagement of the gear and the teeth of the steering rack.
Drive gear. Mounted on bearings and located in the crankcase.
Bushing and restrictive ring. Contribute to the course of the steering rack in the desired interval.

The principle of operation of the Volvo steering rack is quite simple. The efforts of the driver directed to the steering wheel are transmitted to the rack through the shaft and gear, which is mounted on it. As a result, the rack moves in the right direction, the hydraulic booster oil is pumped through the piping and valve system into the required cavity, making it easier to slide the steering rack.

Video (click to play).

The ability to identify malfunctions in a car in time is, of course, very important, because a breakdown of the steering rack while driving can provoke quite serious consequences - the car becomes uncontrollable.

It is recommended to periodically inspect the steering rack for the following signs of malfunction:

Decreased hydraulic fluid in the reservoir. The reason may be the wear of the sealing glands.
Backlash when turning or knocking in the steering rack area. It is likely that the ball joint or the rack teeth themselves have worn out.
If it takes a lot of effort to turn the steering wheel, the shaft was bent.
When driving on rough roads, it may appear "beating" of the steering wheel. In this case, check the tips for damage.
Oil stains under the car signal that the seals in the power steering cylinder are worn out or the steering hoses need to be repaired.

Any of these signs should serve as a signal for repair work. In no case should you continue to ride in a car, especially at high speed.

There are several main reasons why the steering rack of a Volvo car can fail.

Driving on rough roads. Perhaps this is the main reason. Unfortunately, our roads really leave much to be desired, but if you really have to drive on bad roads, you need to take care of your car. Otherwise, soon the driver will hear a knock in the steering rack on the Volvo.
Harsh accelerations when the steering wheel is in the extreme position. You can't do that. The movement must be smooth.
Frequent rides on curbs can also damage the car rack.

It is necessary to carry out diagnostics of any malfunctions of the steering mechanism extremely carefully.Turn the wheel, pull the rods, and then shake the rail itself - this is not a diagnosis, but a direct road to the breakdown of your car.

If you hear something knocking under the hood while driving, you need to stop the car and try to turn the steering wheel to the sides with the car turned off, thereby checking the free play of the steering wheel. Increased play may be a signal of a worn inner rack. If you hear tapping at the extreme moments of play, the problem may be in the steering tips.

After that, you can visually assess the condition of the steering rack by looking under the hood. It is also worth checking the rubber anthers for damage.

Adjusting the steering rack makes sense only in the case of a small output in the rack and a relatively weak backlash. On the Volvo, you can tighten the steering rack, pressing the input shaft against the rack body. To do this, tighten the adjusting nut, thereby pressing the clamping sleeve with the help of a spring.

This should be done very carefully, with smooth movements, checking the steering wheel travel and the presence of play in the process. But it can be quite difficult to perform such a steering rack repair, for example, a Volvo 850 car. The hex-shaped adjusting nut in this model is located behind the subframe, which means that it will be impossible to get to it without removing the subframe.

In the event of any malfunctions in the steering mechanism, car service employees increasingly began to offer replacement of the steering rack in a Volvo car, rather than repair. Thereby guaranteeing high quality and durability of the mechanism. But in cases where such a solution to the issue does not suit financially, you can try to carry out repairs.

We will tell you how the steering rack of Volvo cars is repaired using the example of the S60 model.

Repair of the steering rack of Volvo s80, xc90, 940, s40 cars is carried out according to the same principle.

Experienced motorists recommend constantly monitoring the general condition of the steering rack, in particular, paying attention to protective anthers and changing them in time. Also, in order to avoid rapid wear of the hydraulic booster and an increase in the load on all elements of the steering gear and steering rack, do not spin the engine when the steering wheel is in its extreme position. This can also cause a breakdown of the seal in the hydraulic booster or contamination of the entire system.

Read also: Do-it-yourself pipe repair

It must be remembered that the best way to avoid malfunctions and save money on repairs is to carry out preventive maintenance and check the car. Replace worn parts on time. And if trouble has already occurred and repairs are inevitable, you should not put it off “for later” and continue to drive a car with a faulty steering rack, this can cause an accident.

AND745

Newbie

Registered: 04/09/2009
Posts: 4
From: Yekaterinburg

asdf

Newbie

Registered: 04/10/2009
Posts: 5

AND745

Newbie

Registered: 04/09/2009
Posts: 4
From: Yekaterinburg

asdf

Newbie

Registered: 04/10/2009
Posts: 5

AND745

Newbie

Registered: 04/09/2009
Posts: 4
From: Yekaterinburg

asdf

Newbie

Registered: 04/10/2009
Posts: 5

asdf

Newbie

Registered: 04/10/2009
Posts: 5

valerian

Indifferent to VOLVO

Registered: 03/27/2008
Posts: 37
From: Sergiev Posad

ProPetrovich36

Indifferent to VOLVO

Registered: 12/16/2010
Posts: 40
From: Voronezh

DANGER527

Newbie

Registered: 01/31/2011
Posts: 1
From: Khasavyurt

Dereg

Newbie

Registered: 26.10.2011
Posts: 1
From: St. Petersburg

Travelstar

Newbie

Registered: 01/13/2012
Posts: 2

If it's not difficult, could you send me such an instruction too?
_________________
Volvo 740 B230BFT

Height 5-7 mm. And what is the diameter of the gland?

Interestingly, on the Y60 the oil seal will be the same in size?

What is the total amount, including removal and installation, turning bushings, buying oil seals, and all other amenities? And how long did it take with trips for parts?

Added after 3 minutes
I just want to understand, understanding the difference between a repair budget and a replacement - how much does safety cost for you, your loved ones, definitely hanging by a thread thanks to the use of materials that, like you and your craftsmen it seemed, fit for recovery steering gear.

If we raise the question of the cost of safety and the cost of repairing the steering mechanism, then I think the formulation of such a question is at least correct. We are not talking about self-manufacturing of the mechanical part. It's about REPLACING THE SEAL. You do not get a new engine if you have a frontal or main oil seal leaking, you just change them.

Added after 9 minutes
P.S. All the work cost me around 2000t.r. (friends did it) At the very beginning, someone wrote that he gave 20000t.r. I don't know how much it costs now. In Krasnoyarsk, they charge from 8,000 to 18,000 for the repair of rails, depending on the complexity of the repair.

Tom90, not only the oil seal, bushings that wear out, as you wrote, too.

Anyway. Your right. The price tag is humane. The given rail repair prices are comparable to used ones (cheaper) and new ones (factory rebuild) - more expensive by a dozen or so somewhere

crazy tosh, Please participate in the discussion on the thread https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/884/showthread.php?p=882587#post882587
starting at post 51. Your opinion is very important to me. Vlad XC90.

Added after 3 minutes
Vicc67, it is not convenient to take you away from another topic. But your opinion is also very important to me: https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/884/showthread. 587#post882587 starting from the 51st post.
Thanks in advance ! Vlad XC90.

Wh1teI don't think it should be like that. Bad bulkhead.

Added after 1 minute
Imagine: if the box is not an automatic transmission, you are descending a mountain at speed, the engine is idling, the box is in neutral, you are entering a turn, ai.

Good day to readers, the question is if someone definitely knows how things are now with repairs of the xc90 2.5t rail. The other day I noticed drops of liquid gur on the floor near the front right wheel, sadly, the rail did not knock .. You can’t get to the lift yet, but the liquid apparently doesn’t leave much, the level in the tank has not dropped noticeably.
What makes the most sense:
1. Replace the current seal, if that's what it is, and limit yourself to that (but it seems unlikely that there is wear on one seal and the others are not on the way)
2. Overhaul the rail (how do they do it now? How long is enough.)
3. Buy a new rail of some zzvf, ruei, gs at a price of 27 tr. (How many do these go?)

The rail with the number ka to on the sticker of my rail costs 101 tr. Vida offers another number as a replacement for this old number, and this replacement costs 75 tr.
Rake from Bosch offered as a replacement. costs 51 tr.

Is it worth bothering with repairs at all, after repair, the rail leaves at least 50 thousand before knocking or leaking? Is it worth buying zzvf, ruei, gs or this money thrown away? (Are these rails a rebuild of the original by any chance?)

@Crio, just today repaired at the Neva plant

repair 20800, went through the rail, replaced the crosspiece Offtop

, oil, though they sentenced the pump, new 21000, plus 3 replacements. while thinking what to do

TRW/CAM steering rack repair

Information is shared by alex.ekt + my addition.

Complete TRW steering rack repair report. If you have a rail as in the picture.

. then my information will be useful to you. The process of removing the steering rack from the car, I will not tell.
Before disassembly, you must purchase a repair kit shown in the following figure:

It includes:
1) clamps,
2) rail seals,
3) rubber and fluoroplastic rings on the rail,
4) inner shaft seal,
5) 4 PTFE shaft rings,
6) outer seal and shaft boot,
7) sealing ring of the plastic sleeve.

Let's start the repair. The rail is removed, cleaned of dirt and oil and ready for disassembly. We remove the corrugated anthers and unscrew the steering rods:

Using a special wrench (made from a suitable tube), loosen the adjusting nut:

Using a screwdriver, we pick out and remove the anther from the shaft:

Using a punch or screwdriver, knock out the plug:

. and knock out the shaft from the side of the nut with a soft drift:

ATTENTION. Before knocking out the shaft, we notice its position relative to the rail. Remove the oil seal, plastic sleeve and fluoroplastic rings from the shaft.

When repairing my rack, the aforementioned plastic bushing installed at the top of the “worm” shaft needed to be replaced, a needle bearing from the steering rack was installed instead.if memory serves from Passat B3.

We take out the inner shaft seal. If you wish, you can remove the bearing retaining ring and get it (I did not remove it).

Due to the fact that the bearing had a significant backlash, I replaced it with a bearing of a suitable size from a domestic manufacturer.

You can still knock the pin out of the shaft and disassemble it, but this is not necessary, there is simply nothing to break there.

We proceed to the dismantling of the rail. We turn the caprolan end sleeve counterclockwise, the retaining ring will be unscrewed through the oval hole.

After the retaining ring comes out completely, you can dismantle the rail. To do this, simply pull the rail towards the sleeve. We take out the rail together with the bushing and the gland:

We remove the bushing, oil seal, fluoroplastic and rubber rings. I took out the inner gland with an ordinary wire hook, but I did it carefully. We take out the inner oil seal and the supporting plastic sleeve. Everything, on this disassembly stops.

Let's start troubleshooting and assembly. Wash all parts thoroughly. We look at the rail. The work surface must be free of defects and scratches.

Even if you have minor scuffs and shells as in the next photo.

. then grinding can help, because of this sink I had to sand the rail for 1.5 acres in places, for the next almost 3 years of operation, before selling the car, I didn’t experience problems with the rail, the new owner too. As for the end caprolan sleeve, it was worn out and was a source of knocking, the rail was dangling in the sleeve stretching the stuffing box, for me it was justified to grind it out of caprolan on a lathe.

To check the shaft, it is necessary to carefully clamp the working splines of the rail, and check the elastic displacement of the upper part, turning to the right and left at an angle of 5 degrees relative to the middle position. This turn in one direction or another ensures the efficiency of the steering rack. If this is not the case, then it is necessary to further disassemble the shaft by knocking out the pin. As I said, there is nothing to break there.

We put in place the inner support sleeve and the oil seal in the rack housing. We press the gland using a head of a suitable diameter with an extension. We change the rubber ring and the fluoroplastic ring on the rail, we change the rubber ring on the plastic sleeve (Photo 12).

Lubricate everything with oil and put in place. We put the retaining ring of the plastic sleeve in place by turning the sleeve clockwise, cover the oval hole with sealant. If the shaft bearing was removed, then put it in place and put the bearing retaining ring.

ATTENTION. While the shaft is without fluoroplastic rings, it is necessary to try to put it in place. The fact is that when the shaft is installed in place, it scrolls counterclockwise at a certain angle. Therefore, before installation, it must be rotated clockwise by this angle. This corner must be remembered!

We install the inner shaft seal into the rack housing. We put fluoroplastic rings on the shaft. The rings were preheated on the battery. We put it carefully, but confidently. The rings are strong (try to break the old one with your hands). After installation, the rings stretch and need to be crimped. To do this, we make a crimp of a suitable diameter from a tin (tin can). I crimped and secured the crimp in a vise for 5-10 hours to give the rings their original state. After crimping, lubricate with oil, turn the shaft to the required angle and put it in place, gently tapping with a hammer. It is advisable to do this operation the first time. Fluoroplastic rings do not tolerate dismantling and installation several times. Tighten the shaft nut.

We put grease and put a plug:

We put the plastic sleeve of the shaft in place, press in the stuffing box, put the retaining ring (Photo 6).

We put the boot on the shaft and press it into place. Lubricate the rail. We adjust the gap between the rail and the shaft (Photo 4).

We fasten the steering rods, fix it with a core and put on the corrugated anthers. Everything, the rail is ready to be installed on the car. We put, connect the hoses, fill in the liquid, bleed the system and enjoy the work of the power steering.

First of all, you need to slightly raise the motor. This is necessary in order to unload the supports. This is done using beams or corners.

If the machine is equipped with an airbag, then the position of the wheels should be the same as when driving on a straight section.

Having jacked up the car and given additional support, proceed to remove the wheels.

The tie rod ends must be removed from the pivot arms. It is advisable to measure the length of the rod from the hinge to the rail.

Then remove the mudguards and engine protection located under the crankcase.

Remove the brackets that hold the pipes.

Unbolt the steering column to the steering gear shaft.

Place a jack under the steering arm bolts and carefully knock them out.

Loosen the nuts securing the rack to the subframe.

Raise the subframe at its rear.

Unbolt the subframe to the body.

After unscrewing them, remove the washers.

Loosen the bolts in the front part by a centimeter and a half. After that, lower the rear area of the subframe.

The rail studs should come out of the subframe.

Place a container under the assembly and disconnect the tubes.

Remove the bolt securing the rack to the motor mount.

The hinge must be pushed out of the bipod.

Everything, you can remove the rail itself.

Installation is done in the reverse order, while the steering rods should be in the same position as at the time of removal - that's why they were measured at the beginning).Every driver knows that the steering rack (or gearbox) is one of the weakest points of any car. And her weakness is not in the lack of proper quality, but in the fact that it is she who takes on all the burdens of driving. Sharp jerks in corners, pits and holes in the asphalt, constant load - all this inevitably deforms the rail over time. Such a breakdown is not so easy to fix on the road, for example, like a leaky radiator.The gearbox is the connecting mechanism between the steering wheel and the wheels. It is she who makes the wheel turn when maneuvering with the steering wheel. Therefore, the importance of periodic diagnostics and timely repair of the steering rack of your Volvo is undeniable.Signals can be completely different. So, for example, the knock of the rail, which vibrates into the steering wheel, is a clear sign of a breakdown. If you feel that from some point on, it takes more effort to turn the steering wheel than before - again, the gearbox may be the cause. In the presence of a hydraulic booster, extraneous noise may be made public there due to its malfunction. And also, if play is felt during the rotation of the wheel - again the same reason. Another signal will appear in the form of oil leakage from the gearbox.

If such signals are detected, do not hesitate to diagnose. After all, a faulty steering rack can lose ground at any moment, and then, at best, you simply won’t be able to move on.And at worst - the car can skid on the road in any direction.

If the car has become on the road, and you do not have the opportunity to deliver it to a service center, then you can try to repair it yourself. But please note that such a “home-made” Volvo steering rack repair should be carried out only in order to get to the nearest service. You should not hope for a favorable outcome if, after repair, the car is back on track. Perhaps the defects you missed did not appear immediately. Still, the mechanism needs to be inspected by a professional.So, you need to start by parsing the gearbox. But first, you need to remove it. If the car has protection, we get rid of it. Now remove the heat-insulating plate of the rail and unscrew the fasteners. Everything is ready, the gearbox can be removed.

We advise you to remove the steering rack along with the rods, so it will be easier to put on the anthers later.

Now you need to disassemble the rail into parts in order to clean them from dirt and plaque. It consists of three parts: a gear shaft, a spool mechanism and a support sleeve. After a detailed analysis, we thoroughly wash all the parts, wipe and inspect for damage. All deformed or chipped parts must be replaced as a matter of urgency. Most likely, the seals, seals or bushings will need to be replaced. Damaged gears are a more serious defect. In such cases, a complete replacement of the mechanism is required.After that, we assemble the mechanism back and insert it into the car. Now, if possible, it is necessary to carry out a similarity collapse, and then visit a service for a professionalThe steering rack is a problematic part of many cars. It wears out quickly due to poor road quality and careless driving. If you often drive your Volvo out of town on dirt roads, be prepared for the need for steering repairs.To replace the steering rack on a Volvo S60, you will need standard automotive tools - wrenches and sockets of different sizes. It is best to always carry them with you in order to be able to quickly troubleshoot.It is most convenient to work in the pit, but you can change the part on the street. Then you will need some jacks or wooden props.In the process of work, it will be necessary to clean the mechanisms on the bottom of the car; for this, prepare dry rags, rags and WD-40. It is recommended to wash the car before starting repairs.Place the machine on a level surface. Weather permitting, you can work outside or in a well-ventilated garage. Set the parking brake and place bricks under the rear wheels. Now you can be sure that the car is securely fixed.Put the wheels in a straight position and loosen the fasteners. Jack up the car and remove the front wheels. Place supports under the body. Clean the steering knuckle bolts with WD-40. Wait for it to eat away the rust. You can use a metal brush for cleaning.Remove the battery, remove the alarm siren and gas canister under the hood. Now access to the steering rack is free.

Tip removal method:

Remove the key from the fastening nut.

Loosen the nut.

Insert the fork of the puller under the seal. Install the upper part on the tip bolt.

Tighten the puller nut until it stops and knock the tip out of the rack with a hammer.

After you have freed access to the rail and removed the tips, you can begin to remove the part itself. Algorithm:

In the passenger compartment, under the brake pedal, remove the carpet and interior trim. Loosen the fasteners of the cross. Please note that the top mount is held on by one nut.

Under the hood, remove the steering rack clamps.

Now the mechanism is not fixed by anything, and you can freely remove it through the wheel arch. Grab the body and pull towards you. If it does not lend itself, it is possible that the connections in the cabin are stuck.Tap them lightly with a hammer.

Pull the rack out through the wheel arch. Gently turn to make the spline fit through the hole.

Before installing a new steering rack on a Volvo S60, clean all connections with sandpaper and grease them with grease. Open the plugs on the new part and fill the holes with lithol.

Drive the part through the wheel arch into place. Rotate it so as not to touch other vehicle systems.

Put the clamps under the hood in place and tighten the nuts.

Call an assistant to install a spline connection. He will direct the rail from the outside, and you will connect it from the passenger compartment. Make sure that the notch on the slot coincides with the notch on the collar.

Tighten the stud nuts.

Install the steering tips back and put the wheels in place.

Adjust the alignment yourself or with the help of specialists in a car service.Replacing the steering rack, if you do it yourself, will only cost you the cost of parts. A part on a Volvo costs 17,000-20,000 rubles. Steering tips will cost you 800-900 rubles.You can order this service at a car service. The price depends on the region you are in. In million-plus cities, it costs 2500-3000 rubles.Replacing the steering rack on the Volvo S60 is the same as on other models. It is easy to do it yourself if you have the time and tools. The main thing is to follow the sequence of actions, be careful and you will be able to save on car service services.

Do-it-yourself Volvo s60 steering rack repair

Features of our project

sales of rails for Volvo S60
services of technical centers for the repair and installation of slats

In addition to the fact that we sell shelving from different manufacturers and in different conditions, our partner partners provide quality installation services for purchased spare parts. You can also contact these structures if you need repair of any assembly, including the steering rack.

STO RULROM near Tushinskaya metro station. is a steering repair center, which includes not only steering rack repair, but also GUR system restoration.

Repair and maintenance of steering wheels

We know which fluid must be used in a particular vehicle's power steering and whether the system must always be bled when replacing the steering rack. Repair and replacement of tires Volvo S60 for us. familiar work, which we always perform with a guarantee.

Auto-Tate service. is a professional service station in Altufevo, which, along with other services, performs the restoration of steering rails and other steering-related operations.

Steering rack replacement and related activities

We can't just replace a Volvo S60 steering wheel, but we also need to make sure our craftsmen know exactly what other steps are needed. The replacement price does not mean separately the cost of adjusting the rack or pumping GUR fluid after installing a new one, as these are mandatory tasks.

Repairs in a Volvo P60 steering wheel are carried out only by specialists who perfectly distinguish between different types of steering wheels and know exactly how to restore the efficiency of the rail in any given case, regardless of whether a rebuild or a complete replacement of the part is required.

We are located near Yuzhny metro station, where we carry out the entire range of work on the restoration of the steering rack.

To repair the steering rack of your car, contact Drive-Tire, which is located in Tekstil. Our service offers professional overhaul and restoration of the steering wheel of foreign cars in a short time.

Steering wheel diagnostics

We have a special stand where the diagnostics of the steering rack of any car is carried out comprehensively and allows you to identify all existing defects, after which the rail repair scheme will correspond to the existing breakdowns, if there are no indications for a cardinal replacement of this element on the car.

Our modern CarLith service near the Botanical Garden metro station offers its services for the restoration of the steering of foreign cars. Our main focus is work with steering racks, which we can not only repair, but also buy.

Steering rack repair and maintenance

Volvo S60 steering wheel installation is done according to all requirements, our craftsmen know how to check the performance parameters of the part and how to adjust the steering rack directly on the car to ensure its long service life.

In our service on the Aviamotornaya metro station, you can perform various repairs related to the repair or restoration of the steering rack. For restoration work, we have everything we need, including spare parts, so we have no problem fixing a leak and replacing a rail repair kit, as well as protruding beyond the shaft and changing oil seals.

Technical center "Autolux" near the metro station "Kuntsevskaya". this is a professional service where you can replace the steering rack or carry out repairs. In addition to the fact that we can buy a new rake, we are ready to pick up an old defect for its further restoration, thereby creating favorable conditions for buying a new steering rack.