Do-it-yourself tie rod repair

In detail: do-it-yourself tie rod repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Steering rod is one of the steering components of the car. Its purpose is to transfer force from the rack or gearbox to the steering knuckle lever to change the position of the steered wheel relative to the longitudinal axis of the vehicle.

A tie rod usually consists of a metal rod and two ball joints at its ends. Each hinge is protected from dirt by a rubber boot. Some tie rods may be adjustable in length. This is necessary to adjust the "convergence" of the wheels. Sometimes there are designs that have only one ball joint. Their second hinge is rubber-metal, which does not need to be protected by anther.

The most popular in the design of front-wheel drive cars is a rack and pinion steering mechanism. Its tie rods are the same on both sides and most often consist of a rod, as well as two ball joints. The inner hinge is attached coaxially to the rod and is located under the cover of the rail, and the outer one is perpendicular to its axis with its anther. The steering knuckle arm has a tapered hole for attaching the hinge. The surface of the finger mating with it is also made in the shape of a cone. Therefore, disassembling the lever-finger connection without a puller is quite difficult.

Some signs of steering problems can be identified visually. Their diagnosis begins with an external examination of the anthers and rod.

The anthers should not have gaps and cracks, the underside should not be lubricated. Leaking boots need to be replaced if the wear of the hinge has not exceeded the allowable limits. Before installing a new boot, remove dirt from the hinge and put a little Litol between the ball and the liner.
If there are signs of impact deformation on the rod, the tie rod must be replaced.
When it was not possible to determine the malfunction by external inspection, it is necessary to check the degree of wear of the tips.

Video (click to play).

To check the hinges without removing the rods, put the car on a viewing hole or on a flyover. Stand under the front of the car. Grasp the rod with both hands close to the outer hinge and rock it up and down. The body of the outer tip may have a free play along the axis of the finger of not more than 1.5 mm. This play is due to the mobility of the plastic cone insert along the axis of the pin. It should not be perpendicular to the center line of the finger. It is necessary to check the inner hinge of the rack and pinion steering with an assistant. He must often turn the steering wheel from side to side by 15–20 ◦ . In the meantime, feel for the presence of gaps by touch. If you can feel the play with your fingers, the hinge will not last long - change it.

Replacing steering wheels will require you to have the following tools and fixtures:

Jack.
Balloon key.
Steering pin puller.
Set of spanners.
Pliers.
Flat thin screwdriver.
Open-end wrench and lever to it for unscrewing the hinge from the rail. The lever in this case is needed due to the strong tightening of the assembly fastening.
Car stands.
Shoes.

It also does not hurt to have a couple of nuts for fastening the fingers and a few cotter pins that are suitable in size. Be sure to buy the right amount of plastic clamps of the appropriate length for attaching the steering rack boot. Such clamps can be used in any case, even if metal ones are used on your car.

Replacing the steering rod, even if one joint has been replaced, requires mandatory adjustment of the angles of the steered wheels (geometry). The collapse can also be set by hand.

In the event that the diagnostics revealed signs of a malfunction of both tie rod joints, you need a complete replacement of the tie rod. When only one hinge has symptoms of a malfunction, you can only replace it.

Loosen the wheel mount. On the side opposite to the one chosen for repair, place shoes under the rear wheel.
Raise the car with a jack. Put it on a stand. Take off the wheel.
Using a screwdriver and pliers, remove the cotter pin that secures the outer steering tip nut.
Open it. If the cotter pin is rusty and won't come out, leave it and unscrew the nut with a socket wrench. She cut off his protruding ends and removed. Before assembly, do not forget to drill out the remains.
Measure the length of the pull.
Squeeze your finger out of the bipod with the puller.
To remove the rod assembly, remove the clamps from the half of the rail cover and slide it onto the rod. Unscrew the hinge from the rail and remove the rod.
To remove the short tip, loosen the locknut.
When assembling, make the length of the new rod as close as possible to the value obtained during the measurement. This will not save you from having to go to the geometry, but it will improve the handling of your car on the way to the car service.
When assembling, you do not need to use a puller. The finger is pressed into the bipod by tightening the nut of its fastening.
If you have removed the link completely, remember to put the boot half on the long tip shaft before attaching the outer tip to it.
The rest of the assembly is done in the reverse order of disassembly.

Nuts must be splinted. Otherwise, they are unscrewed from vibration, and then the fingers fall out of the bipod sockets from the same impact.

The large lever can only be used to loosen the threaded fastener. Because when tightening with a long lever, there is a risk of damaging the thread.

The tie rod must be positioned in such a way that it is subject to minimal axial movement during any movement of the wheels. This is the main rule for a comfortable ride, but what will these words say to a novice motorist, and not to an experienced car mechanic? Let's try to figure it out.All tie rods perform the following two functions. They transmit forces from the steering mechanism to the pivot arms of the hubs, thanks to which the wheels turn, this happens due to the hinges installed at the ends of the rods. Also, these elements of the car provide the necessary angle of rotation of the wheels, because during turns, the radii along which the wheels move are not the same. And by adjusting the required length of the rod using a special thread, you can adjust the angle of the wheels (toe angle).

Most often, hinges come into disrepair, or more precisely, a rubber liner, which, by the way, renders all control unusable. This happens as a result of long-term use. Due to the ingress of dust and dirt, the tie rod boot can also deteriorate. The rods themselves become faulty, mainly only after mechanical action. This can be a collision of wheels on the edges of deep pits, or a direct hit on a stone and so on.

To understand that it is necessary to replace the steering rod, you can by the following signs:

extraneous sounds, knocking appear in the control;

there is a beating of the steering wheel;

increased steering wheel play. If it occurred during vertical rocking, then the ball joint or the hub bearing must be replaced. In the case of horizontal swing - a malfunction of the steering tip;

the drive wheel rotates rather tightly;

while driving, the car leans to the side (either to the right or to the left).

Of course, it is possible to replace this mechanism on your own, but before proceeding, it is worth doing a car diagnostic. You can determine if there is a backlash as follows. It is necessary that someone turn the steering wheel of your car, and in the meantime you would determine the presence of play by eye, or by slowly turning the steering wheel yourself, evaluate its trajectory by touch. If there is a runout, then it is worth changing the tie rod end with a hinge.

The protective cover located on the ball joint is also subject to diagnostics; if gaps and cracks are found, it must be replaced.

After a thorough diagnosis, if necessary, proceed directly to the dismantling of the old thrust and the installation of a new one. Be sure to put your car on the handbrake before starting work, and install stop bars under the rear wheels. If you need to dismantle the right link, then the front wheels turn to the left, when dismantling the left, respectively, to the right. Image - Do-it-yourself tie rod repair

Next, the front of the car must be installed on supports. The ball joint is attached to the swing arm with a nut, it should be unscrewed after removing the retainer. For the next step, you will need a tie rod puller to press the ball joint pin out of the strut pivot arm.

Use a screwdriver to unscrew the ends of the lock plate, this way you will unlock the bolts that secure the tie rods, then unscrew them altogether. It is necessary to turn the connecting plate so that the rod can be disconnected from the steering mechanism. Now you can take it off. If it is necessary to replace the tie rod end, then it must be clamped by the hexagon of the coupling in a vice and loosen the tip lock nut.

When unscrewing the tip itself, do not forget to count the number of revolutions completed. Best of all, fix this number on paper, so as not to forget. When installing a new tip, screw it in exactly the same number of turns. If you need to replace the cover, you need to remove the old one, then lubricate the surface with sealant, and only then install a new one. You need to assemble the steering rod in exactly the reverse order, so do not be distracted when you disassemble your car.

You often have to repair your old car yourself, since it is very expensive in a car service, and they don’t “get involved” with disassembling components and repairing parts, but only change the entire blocks.In this regard, I offer amateur auto mechanics a way to repair the ball joint of the steering linkage of the trapezoid of VAZ-2101 - VAZ-2107 cars with minimal financial and material costs, and so that it works easily and reliably.For the previous repair, it is necessary to make a retaining ring, a plug (Fig. 1) and a device for assembling the ball joint of the steering trapezium rod (Fig. 2). Image - Do-it-yourself tie rod repair

Rice. 1. Refurbished tie rod joint

The device is made of two steel plates with the same dimensions 85x40x5 mm. The only difference is in the central through holes: at the bottom plate (5) it is 18 mm in diameter, and at the top (3) it is M8 and a nut (5) with the same thread is welded on top.

The distance between the plates (3 and 5) is 75 mm and they are interconnected by a pair of M8 studs (4) with nuts.

The device also has a M8x60 power screw (2) with a handle (1) welded to its hexagonal head. It is necessary to press the plug into the tie rod joint housing.

Rice. 2. Tool for assembling the steering link ball joint:
1 - handle; 2 – M8x60 bolt; 3 - top plate (steel, 85x35x5); 4 - hairpin M8 (2 pcs.); 5 - bottom plate; 6 - nut M8 (9 pcs.)

The retaining ring is made of spring wire with a diameter of 2 mm. I clamp its end in a vice together with a turnkey nut S = 30 and tap the wire with a hammer around the entire nut. I bend the beginning of the first and last bends to 85 ° and chop off to a size of 8 mm.

I clean the rod to be repaired with a rag from oil, dirt and, having removed the dirt-protective rubber cap, remove the old grease. In the plug, I drill nine holes with a diameter of 5 mm along the radii (Fig. 3).I clamp the rod in a vise and with a chisel made from a blade of a mechanical hacksaw for metal, I cut the jumpers between the holes, thereby obtaining four sectors. I bend each sector with a screwdriver from the center upwards and knock them out of the groove of the body with the help of a beard and a hammer.

Rice. 3. Drilling holes in the standard plug to remove it from the hinge body:
1 - thrust; 2 - hinge body; 3 - old plug

From the body I take out the spring and the insert with the ball pin. I wash all the parts in gasoline, inspect and re-lubricate with ShRB-4 grease. I place an insert into the hinge body (the slot on it should not converge) assembled with a ball pin and a spring. Next, I put a plug on the spring and, using a tool, push it into the hole in the housing until a groove appears. I clean the groove from grease with a rag and put sealant into it. I fix the plug with a retaining ring.

Installing a new plug in the hinge body using a tool

Device for installing a new plug in the tie rod joint housing

End cap made of 2 mm thick steel sheet

Retaining figured ring made of wire Ø3 mm

The play of the ball pin is eliminated due to the fact that the new plug sinks into the housing 2 mm deeper than the previous one. With this position of the plug, the spring is compressed more strongly. But if the ball pin still swings freely or with little effort, it is necessary to reduce the sphere on the plug to 0.5 mm or make the plug flat, and if it is very tight, increase the depth of the sphere to 1.5 mm.

V.AKSENTSEV, Arzamas, Nizhny Novgorod region

In the steering gear, the tie rod ends most often fail. Some car owners rely on tie rod repair (particularly tip replacement), but this is not a very reliable approach. Firstly, it is not known how long the thrust will last after the repair, and whether the repair will pay off. Secondly, will the factory parameters be preserved - as a rule, during the repair process, they change. In this regard, it seems that it is much more practical and reliable to immediately replace the used tie rod with a new part. And you can do it yourself. Watch the video “Replacing steering rods and tips (for example, Chery Tiggo)” below.

Typical symptoms, indicating the need to replace the steering rod, are as follows:

Strange knocks regularly appear in the steering mechanism, which can be transmitted to the steering wheel, causing it to beat;
Significantly increased steering wheel play. Please note that in the presence of vertical play of the steering wheel, there is a suspicion of a breakdown of the ball bearing or hub bearing. Horizontal play indicates a breakdown of the steering tip;
Turning the steering wheel became difficult;
It becomes uncomfortable to drive a car, as it begins to spontaneously deviate from a straight line.

Any of these symptoms indicates the need for an early examination and further repair of the steering.

Video: How to identify a knock in the steering rod

If the video is not showing, refresh the page or ” style=”color:#CC3333″>click here

When visual diagnostics, you need to pay attention to the following details:

The steering tips should not move along the axis by more than one and a half millimeters. This check is performed with an assistant who gently rotates the steering wheel, and the driver, simply by touch, putting his hand to the ball tips, fixes the presence or absence of play;

The clamp on the adjusting sleeve going to the side link should be as tight as possible.

All ball joint protectors must not show any damage.

Traction should be bought together with tips, as this is in every sense expedient. To perform all the work, you will need the following tools:

A stable jack and a pair of "goat", which will ensure complete safety of work;

A device for removing steering rods (instead of it, a hammer or mount is also often used);

Pliers or pliers;

Standard set of wrenches;

Screwdriver;

Impregnation oil liquid (for example, WD-40).

Steering rod replacement steps

We raise the car on a jack, install, fixing the car "goat", and dismantle its front wheel;

Next, you need to unpin the pin nut, and then unscrew it;

We mount the puller, tightening its nut as much as possible, after which you need to apply a short and sharp blow with a hammer on the lug located on the rotary lever. It happens that the finger, from the first time, does not jump off, then this manipulation is repeated;

If the thread on the steering lugs is rusted, then it needs to be treated with a “Vedashka”, let it settle for a bit, and then unscrew it;

We remove the boot, after which we unscrew the thrust itself, removing it from the steering rack;

The installation of a new thrust does not begin until it is attached to the old unit, and a special mark is made on it, strictly corresponding to the previous track. Thus, the minimum necessary adjustment of the alignment is done, which will allow you to get to the nearest car service, so that the alignment is already adjusted there thoroughly.

The process of installing a new thrust is carried out in the reverse order of the steps described above (however, where a hammer was previously used, it should no longer be used). In addition, it is desirable to process all threaded connections with the same lithol, which will allow, with any further repair, to avoid problems during the disassembly process. The ball joint should also be lubricated.Yes, and let us remind you once again: after replacing the steering rod, do not forget to adjust the wheel alignment yourself or in a car service, since the wheel angles, after such a repair, in any case, went astray.Video: Replacing steering rods and tips (for example, Chery Tiggo)If the video is not showing, refresh the page or ” style=”color:#CC3333″>click here

Hello dear car enthusiasts! It probably makes no sense to explain to the driver what the steering of the car is intended for. We are confident that you drive modern cars that have a steering wheel, not levers, like in a tank.

If we build a logical-mechanical circuit, we will see: a steering wheel - a worm gear or a steering rack - and, finally, a steering gear (trapezoid). The steering gear consists of steering rods, and it is the replacement of the steering rod that is the main issue of today's material.

It is not a fact that you will use the knowledge gained, and everyone, without exception, will begin to replace the tie rod and steering tips with your own hands. Not everyone wants or can. However, knowing how to replace the tie rod and when to change the tie rods or ends is essential.

At least so that you don’t “hang electrical wiring on your ears” by very “conscientious craftsmen” of car services who are sorely lacking money. And they take advantage of the naivety of motorists. Let the real pro-masters not be offended by us.

Information for reflection: you should be aware that the most common and typical malfunction of the steering gear is the failure (wear) of the ball joint of the tie rod ends.

And yet, some "kulibins", according to old memory, use such a repair method as the restoration of steering rods. This is, of course, a personal matter for each driver, but it’s worth counting your money: how long the restored tie rod will last, whether all factory parameters will be observed during restoration, and how much money the restoration costs.

Wouldn't it be easier to buy a factory tie rod, since the shortage of spare parts is long over. And replace the tie rod with your own hands.

How do we know about a steering failure? Elementary. The hands lying on the steering wheel and our hearing will tell us that it is time to do a steering diagnosis.

Typical signs of a steering malfunction in general:

various freelance knocks - glitches in the steering;
characteristic beating of the steering wheel;
increased play of the steering wheel: play during vertical swing of the steering wheel indicates a malfunction of the hub bearing or ball joint, play during horizontal swing indicates a malfunction of the steering tip;
the steering wheel began to turn hard;
the vehicle begins to change the direction of travel while driving.

One of these signs is present, which means it's time for a steering diagnosis.

When diagnosing on your own, or initial diagnosis, pay attention to the following characteristic points:

the movement of the steering tips along the axis of the fingers should be no more than 1.5 mm. The assistant turns the steering wheel, and you use your fingers (by touch) to determine the presence of play on the ball tips. There is play or knocking - the tip with the hinge needs to be changed.
Check the tightness of the clamp of the adjusting clutch on the side link.
Check the serviceability (absence of mechanical damage) of the protective covers of the ball joint of the handpiece. There are cracks and gaps, the cover is changing.

To begin with, you must purchase rods complete with tips. It's up to you, but it is advisable to change both tips so that after a while you do not return to replacing the left old tip. Doubtful economy.

In order to remove and replace the steering rod, you will need a set of tools and fixtures: a jack, “goats” for safety, a steering rod puller (if the puller is a problem, then the craftsmen use a hammer and a small “pry bar”), pliers, wrenches, screwdriver and universal technical fluid WD-40.

So, let's start replacing the steering rod:

Jack up the car, put the "goat". We remove the front wheel.
Loosen the pin nut and unscrew it.
Install the puller and tightening its nut until it stops, sharply hit the lug of the rotary lever with a hammer. If the finger does not come off, repeat the procedure: tighten the puller nut - hit with a hammer.
Unscrew the steering end completely from the coupling. WD-40 will come in handy if the threads are rusty.
Remove the boot and unscrew the rod from the steering rack.
Before installing a new link, attach it to the removed old one and make a mark on the old track on the new link. This is necessary for that. To twist it to the mark and normally get to the razvalchik.
We install a new thrust in the reverse order, preferably without a hammer.

It is advisable to lubricate the threaded connections with lithol in order not to use the hammer so actively next time. And do not forget to lubricate the ball joint with the grease that comes with the linkage.

After replacing the tie rod, you have a direct road to wheel alignment. Some "craftsmen" talk about the fact that they install new ones according to the marks on the rods and do not need the services of a forklift. We would not recommend such experiments, especially given today's prices for new tires.

Tie rod is an integral element of the steering gear of the car. The main task of this drive is to prevent the side slip of the wheels when the car is turning. That is, with the correct operation of the mechanism, the steered wheels of the car must turn at different angles: at a large angle - the inner wheel, at a smaller angle - the outer wheel. This drive consists of various rods (middle, right and left) and right and left wheel levers. Depending on the design of the type presented and the model of the car, there are a variety of them, however, not all will be suitable for your particular model. Therefore, you should pay due attention when choosing them and avoid mistakes, since the replacement of the steering rod is carried out strictly according to your type of car.

Even if we take into account the fact that for various car models there are a large number of design features of this component, the essence of the drive does not change. The connection between the lever of the corresponding mechanism and the longitudinal element is carried out with the help of hinges. During bipod rotation, the middle link moves to the right or left. Turning the wheels in the right direction is provided with the help of side rods.

Tie rod video

There is also a steering gear that is simpler in its organization - a rack and pinion type mechanism. Its main difference is that it uses only two tie rods, which make the wheels of the car turn in the right direction and interact with the swing arms through a small effort from the driver.The main element of the side rods is the steering rod joints, in other words, the tips. They are responsible for a strong and high-quality connection with threaded lugs. The hinges are made in the form of hemispherical fingers. Because of their fragility, they are the most problematic place. Replacement of the steering rod joint is carried out only in a complete assembly, so they cannot be restored and repaired. The best option would be to replace the hinges on both sides and protect yourself from problems in the future.The main characteristic symptoms of a malfunction include:

steering wheel wobble and unintentional vibration;

all kinds of unplanned knocks when the car is moving, usually coming from the right side;

an uncharacteristic increase in steering play, which is felt by the driver at high speed;

difficulty with control and stiffness of the steering wheel when cornering;

spontaneous deviation of the movement of the car during rectilinear movement: now to the right, then to the left.

A sign of a tie rod failure is the stiffness of the steering wheel when making a turn.If you find the presence of one or more of these characteristic signs, then it is necessary to diagnose this mechanism in the near future and replace the tie rod end.Before diagnosis at a service center, you can check this mechanism yourself. In doing so, special attention should be paid to the following points:

The movement of the steering tips along the axis of the fingers should be no more than 1.5 mm, otherwise the tip with a hinge must be replaced.

Make sure of the necessary force with which the coupling clamp on the rod is tightened.

Check the degree of strength of the covers that protect the tip hinge. If there are gaps and cracks, a decision must be made to change the cover.

The most common and typical steering gear failure is wear and damage to the tie rod ends.We do not need any equipment or a visit to a service station to determine control problems. It is enough to freely place your hands on the steering wheel and rely on your own hearing.Usually an experienced driver can immediately notice changes in his car that lead to non-standard movements. Ways to find problems:

While the car is parked, you can turn the steering wheel and pay attention to the response movement of the wheels: if the wheels do not respond to the movement of the steering wheel, then this is a clear sign of a breakdown.

Assess the condition of the anther for scratches, cuts, concavities, cracks and, if positive, replace it.

An experienced driver can immediately notice changes in steeringInitially, to replace the steering rod with your own hands, you need to purchase rods that are suitable for your particular car model, and, if possible, two tips at once in order to avoid replacing the old tip in the future and save your money.Here is a list of popular and necessary tools to replace this mechanism: