The steering rack is leaking and needs to be repaired. It is worth saying right away that the repair will be very difficult and it is recommended to start it for experienced drivers, as well as if you have all the necessary equipment at hand.
Before repairing, you must have on hand new parts for the steering rack (mechanism bushing, oil seals, ring seals, etc.).
1. Unscrew the rail from the steering rods with a flat screwdriver.
2. Next, you need to unscrew the plastic plug of the gear shaft.
3. Unscrew the lock nut.
4. Remove the retaining ring and gently knock the shaft out of its place.
5. Next, you need to remove the lower oil seal.
6. Pull out the locking pin by tapping.
7. Now turn the retaining plug and remove the retaining ring by the wire.
8. Pull out the steering rack through the right side, and also remove the plastic bushing and the oil seal from it.
9. Remove the plug and gland, hold-down mechanism and spring.
Now you need to wash all parts from dirt and oil, and also check all parts for damage. If there are any, replace them. If there is severe damage on the surface of the steering rack and pinion of the toothed shaft, then the entire mechanism is usually replaced.
1. Lubricate the oil seal with special grease and carefully place the inner oil seal in the desired place (put through the right side with the spring down).
2. Install the rail into the housing.
3. Put a plastic bushing on the right oil seal, lubricate the parts with grease and install the oil seal in the desired place (you can push it).
4. Now it is necessary to install and secure the plug with the locking wire.
5. Slide the lower oil seal onto the toothed shaft.
6. In the middle position, you must install the steering rack.
7. Lubricate the gear shaft seal with grease and place it in the seat.
8. Carefully insert the upper gland into place and install the circlip.
9. Install the lower retaining nut, bearing, and plug.
10. Next, install the hold-down device, spring, plug.
Now you need to install the rail on the car in reverse order.
VIDEO
Repairing a steering rack or power steering gear, as it is also called, is an important matter - you need to be able to do it yourself. Why? Because if there is a malfunction of the steering rack, then there is a failure of the steering, and this can turn into a disaster on the road. To prevent this from happening, you need to know how to repair a steering rack .
Since the rail is the part that connects the steering wheel to the wheels, it also feels the unevenness of the roads, impacts when cornering. Accordingly, the steering rack wears out quite a bit and needs proper care.
there was a knock in the rail, a noticeable beat in the steering wheel;
the steering wheel starts to spin harder;
when the steering wheel was rotated, the play of the steering rack began to be felt;
power steering fluid began to leak from the steering column;
unusual sounds appeared when the power steering was working.
Basically, repairing a steering rack on a VAZ 21099 is not much different from repairing a steering rack on a BMW 3 (E46), for example. The principle of operation is the same, but there are some differences in the design. I must admit that the work is quite difficult - before starting it, you need to know the steering rack device.
A steering rack repair kit will come in handy, consisting of oil seals, O-rings, bushings, as well as a corrugation, a gear shaft bearing and a tube of grease. In the tool box you should have: a special octagonal wrench, bearing removers and pliers for mounting a circlip. Of course, a standard set of wrenches should also be at hand. Do-it-yourself steering rack repair is done on an overpass or inspection ditch.
This happens in three stages - 1) removal of the steering rack, disassembly / cleaning of parts; 2) replacement of unusable parts with new ones; 3) check the steering rack gear shaft.
Use a flat screwdriver to unscrew the tie rods from the steering rack
Unscrew the lower gear shaft plug.
Unscrew the lock nut.
Remove the circlip and drive out the shaft.
Remove the lower oil seal
Remove the retaining pin that is blocking the upper oil seal.
Turn the retaining plug, pull out the retaining ring by the wire.
Pull out the steering rack on the right side, remove the oil seal with a plastic bushing from it.
Pull out the oil seal, plug, remove the spring, the clamping mechanism.
Apply special grease and place the inner oil seal (spring down).
Place the rail in the housing.
Put the bushing on the right oil seal, lubricate all parts, install the oil seal.
Install the plug, remembering to fix it with wire.
Slide the lower oil seal onto the toothed shaft.
Set the steering rack to the middle position and insert the toothed shaft into place (after having lubricated it).
Install the upper oil seal, install the circlip.
Tighten the lower lock nut, as well as the bearing, plug.
Install and tighten the hold-down mechanism, spring and plug.
Further, the installation proceeds in the reverse order.
As seen, DIY steering rack repair it is quite within the power of a person who is familiar with repairs in general terms. By the way, mechanical and hydraulic steering racks, which are much more common than their modern counterpart, the electronic steering rack, are subject to self-repair. The latter needs a special setting, which is better to entrust to professionals.
The steering rack transfers rotation from the steering wheel to the wheels. It affects handling, and any malfunctions in this unit make the car less obedient. Steering rack elements are subject to natural wear and tear and are subject to shock loads from driving on uneven roads. This leads to the fact that the steering rack of almost every car needs to be replaced or repaired by a mileage of 200–250 thousand km.
When driving over bumps and when turning the steering wheel, a knock is heard in the area of the steering rack.
The handling has deteriorated, the car "throws", it is especially acutely felt at high speed.
Rudder free play (backlash) is increased.
The steering wheel turns harder than usual or jerks.
The steering wheel does not return to its original position after turning, you have to turn it with your hands.
The power steering pump makes noise, the sound intensifies when the steering wheel is turned.
The oil level in the power steering reservoir is dropping.
Oil leaks are visible on or near the rail.
Almost all of the signs from the list above do not directly indicate wear on the steering rack, so before repairing you need to make sure that the problem is in it.
Suspension elements can knock - ball bearings, steering tips, silent blocks, bushings and stabilizer struts. The wear of these parts leads to poor handling, increased steering wheel play. The suspension must be checked, defective elements must be replaced.
Heavy rotation of the steering wheel, non-return or slow return to the starting position may be the result of improper adjustment of the rack or violation of wheel alignment. If you have recently adjusted the rack, redo it, but already correctly, check the wheel alignment angles at the workshop.
For vehicles with an electric power steering, the cause of a "heavy" steering wheel may be a failure of the electric motor, open or short circuit, oxidation of contacts in the connectors, malfunction of the system control unit or blown fuses.
Leakage of fluid from the power steering system and the noise of the power steering pump are associated - oil flows out through worn out oil seals and seals. Through them, air enters the system, due to which the pump makes noise. Inspect the pump housing, hoses and connections; if you find a leak, fix it.
How to determine wear of parts inside the rail?
On a muffled car, shake the steering wheel left and right with a small amplitude. If you hear a knock, repair is needed. If there is an assistant, let him at this time take hold of the steering rod with his hand, so you can more accurately determine where the backlash is.
Replacing a faulty rail with a new one is easier than repairing it. But more expensive.Consider the cost of repairing the rail of a 2009 Ford Focus II. The new original rail costs 45,000 rubles. Substitutes offer to buy at a price of 20,000 rubles, but their resource, according to car owners, is unpredictable.
A repair kit for a Ford Focus II rail costs 2,500 rubles, anthers with clamps - 600 rubles. The savings are obvious, but it will take about 2 days to remove, repair and install the unit. For dismantling and installation, a regular set of wrenches is suitable, but in order to disassemble and assemble the rail, you need a special tool, which you will have to buy or make yourself.
Before starting the repair, try to soberly assess your strengths and capabilities, compare the benefits of self-repair and the upcoming labor costs.
Dismantling the rail has its own characteristics for each car, but in general, the procedure is as follows:
Install the front part of the car on supports, remove the wheels.
Press out the steering tips from the steering knuckle pins (use a special puller).
Remove the heat shield of the rail.
For cars with a power steering - unscrew the oil supply and return hoses (place a container under the hoses to drain the fluid), for cars with an electric power steering - disconnect the connector or remove the steering shaft position sensor.
Remove the bolts securing the steering rack to the subframe or engine shield (depending on the make and model of the car).
Loosen the pinning bolt of the universal joint between the rack and the steering shaft.
Pull the rack in the direction of the steering shaft to release the spline connection (if the rack does not go, it is allowed to knock it down with light hammer blows).
Pull out the rack through the left or right wheel arch (depending on the layout of the engine compartment).
Pressing out the steering tip with a puller
Tip: not in every car you can get the rail just like that - the stretcher can interfere. Removing it completely is long and difficult, try to unscrew only the rear bolts and the engine support, then take the subframe down. This is often enough and the rake is released.
To remove the rail in the Peugeot 308, you need to unscrew the rear bolts of the subframe and swing it down, this is easier than removing the entire subframe.
After dismantling, the rail must be cleaned of dirt and washed.
It is better to disassemble and assemble the steering rack clean, without sand and dust. If abrasive particles get inside, the surfaces and seals will quickly wear out, the rack will flow. Fix the rail in a locksmith's vice, if not, place clean cardboard or other material in place of disassembly.
Important: do not clamp the rail too tightly in a vice - its brittle aluminum alloy body may burst or deform.
Remove the clamps and pull off the steering boot boots.
Securely fix the rack housing and unscrew the steering rods (there are grooves for an open-end wrench on the threaded sleeve).
Unscrew the locknut and nut of the adjusting mechanism, remove the washers and the pressure sleeve from the seat.
Unscrew the drive shaft housing or nut (a special wrench may be needed), remove the shaft from the housing.
Pull out the rack rack.
Take out the sealing collars, bushings and PTFE rings from the rack housing.
The location of the drive shaft and toothed rod in the steering rack
Tip: Before disassembling the rack, mark the position of the toothed rod or measure how much it protrudes from the body on both sides, so that you can reassemble it correctly. Mark the position of the adjusting nut and count the turns as you unscrew it in order to set the pressure sleeve in the correct position after assembly.
The parts of the disassembled rail must be wiped off oil, cleaned of deposits and carefully examined. In repair kits, only rubber seals and PTFE bushings with rings are usually supplied. This may not be enough for every case.
Carefully inspect the surface of the toothed rod for damage and wear.Pay particular attention to the working area - the teeth and the part of the stem that comes into contact with the rings, seals and bushings. Any damage, corrosion, risks and scuffing will lead to rapid wear of the seals and leakage of the rack.
Deep corrosion of the rod stem. Such a detail cannot be used.
There should be no cracks, notches, chips and deep wear on the bevel teeth of the drive shaft gear. It is dangerous to install a shaft with such damage - the rack can jam in motion.
A common cause of knocks in the rail is wear of the pressure sleeve. The working surface of the part must be smooth, without traces of punching and scoring. The clamping sleeve is usually not in the rack repair kit, but for many cars it can be purchased separately.
Wear of the pressure sleeve - the PTFE insert is pressed through
Severely worn and damaged rail parts cannot be repaired in a garage. If problems are found during troubleshooting, contact specialized service stations for help. There they can restore the shaft and the rod of the rack using professional equipment.
Assemble the rail in the reverse order of disassembly. Lubricate the parts with power steering oil before installation so that no scoring occurs on the bushings.
Insert PTFE rings and bushings into the rack housing carefully - the material is fragile and can burst from impacts or great force. For accurate insertion, you can use an appropriately sized socket and extension from the wrench set.
After installing the toothed rod, center it according to the marks made before disassembling, then insert and screw the drive shaft.
Insert the clamping sleeve and washers into the socket, tighten the adjusting nut by the required number of turns and turn the mechanism by hand several times from lock to lock (you need to rotate by the drive shaft). If the rack is assembled correctly, the toothed rod should move easily without jamming. Tighten the adjuster locknut.
Tighten the tie rods and install the anthers, squeeze them with special clamps.
Important: do not put plastic ties instead of clamps, they do not provide reliable crimping of the boot, moisture will get into the rail, the stem will rust and damage the cuffs. The rail will flow.
It is better to put the steering rack on the car with an assistant - one starts the rack from the side of the engine compartment, the other directs the cardan joint into the shaft splines from the passenger compartment. The cardan joint can only be put in one position - there is a special casting in the splined joint, which must be combined with the groove on the mating part. Do not immediately tighten the pinch bolt - the cardan joint will take the correct position on the splines after the rail and subframe are finally screwed on.
Install and tighten the steering rack and subframe mounting bolts, then finally tighten the steering shaft universal joint pinch bolt.
Insert the pins of the steering ends into the trunnions and tighten the nuts. Connect the tubes and hoses of the power steering (or wire connectors for the system with EUR). Fill the power steering fluid into the reservoir up to the “maximum” mark.
Install the wheels and, without removing the car from the stands, start bleeding the system (for cars with power steering).
Scroll the steering wheel several times from lock to lock with a slight delay in the extreme positions.
Remove the car from the stands, add fluid to the power steering reservoir if the level drops.
Scroll the steering wheel several times from lock to lock, also with a delay in the extreme positions.
Make sure that the power steering pump does not make noise, add fluid to the tank if the level has dropped and inspect the connections, hoses and power steering tubes for leaks.
Advice: do not rush to install the heat shield, it will be more difficult to inspect the rail during the test ride.
After bleeding, check again the tightness of all threaded connections and make a test drive. Repair of the steering rack can be considered successful if:
The knocking and noises stopped.
The fluid level in the power steering reservoir does not drop.
The car handles well, holds the road confidently.
If everything is in order, reinstall the heat shield.
After repairing the steering rack, be sure to check the alignment at a car service or yourself.
Repairing the steering rack yourself in the garage is profitable, but not easy. It takes a tool, time and patience.
Specialized car services offer an alternative to repairing in the garage or buying a new part - a complete restoration of the rail.
The specialists themselves will remove the rail, select the necessary repair kit, and restore problematic items that are not on sale. If the work described in the article seems complicated, entrust the repair of the rail to professionals.
The main function of the steering rack (reducer) in the car device is to organize the rotation of the car. The steering rack is present in cars with power steering, as well as in those cars in which there is no power steering. It connects the steering wheel to the wheels, and therefore its role is very important for safe movement in the car. The diagnosis of this mechanism must be approached with the utmost responsibility, as well as repairs.
All cars are subject to rapid wear of steering parts, regardless of price and status, because it is these parts that take a hit at any turn, hitting an obstacle, hitting the wheels on bumps on the road.
To determine if your vehicle's steering needs repairs, look for the following signs of a malfunctioning mechanism:
there is clearly a knock on the steering rack, which is felt through the steering wheel of a car;
increased effort required to rotate the steering wheel;
there were extraneous sounds and noise in the power steering pump;
there was a backlash in the steering rack, which is felt when the steering wheel rotates;
power steering oil began to leak from the steering rack.
If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.
So, you have a steering rack leaking. What to do, how to make repairs and adjust the steering performance?
The steering rack mechanism consists of the following parts:
toothed shaft;
steering rack support sleeve;
spool mechanism.
Repairing a steering rack usually consists of several stages:
Dismantling, disassembling the steering rack and cleaning the accumulation of all its parts.
Replacement of damaged parts of the mechanism with new parts.
Diagnostics of the toothed shaft of the steering rack.
Before starting repair work, you should get a special repair kit, which includes new parts for the steering rack (oil seals, steering rack bushing, ring seals, and others).
Drive the car into a hole or raise it with jacks.
Remove the engine protection (if you have one).
Remove the steering rack heat shield.
Unscrew the fasteners on the steering rack.
Remove the rail from the mountings and pull it out of the interior of the car.
It is worth noting that it will be better for you to remove the steering rack along with the steering rods, because the new anthers will be much more convenient to pull on the special protrusions on the steering rods. This will help you to fit perfectly sealed anthers.
Unscrew the rack from the steering rods using a special flat-head screwdriver.
Unscrew the bottom plastic gear shaft plug.
Unscrew the lock nut.
Remove the retaining ring and gently knock the shaft out of its place.
Pull out the lower oil seal.
Tap out the locking pin that is blocking the upper oil seal.
Unscrew the retaining plug and pull the retaining ring out of the wire that will show up as you turn it.
Pull the steering rack out through the right side and remove the oil seal and plastic bushing from the rack.
Remove the oil seal and plug, pull out the spring and pressure mechanism.
Next, wash all parts from oil and dirt deposits and carefully inspect all parts for mechanical damage due to wear. All damaged parts must be replaced without fail. If the surface of the steering rack and the gears of the toothed shaft have significant damage, then most likely it will be necessary to replace the entire mechanism as a whole (how to replace the steering rack with a VAZ 2109, read in our material).
Carefully install the inner oil seal in its place, having previously lubricated it with special grease (you need to put it through the right side with the spring down).
Place the rail into the housing.
Slide the plastic sleeve over the right gland, lubricate all parts with grease, and push the gland back into place by pushing something.
Install the plug and secure it with the retaining wire.
Slide the lower oil seal onto the toothed shaft.
Place the steering rack in the middle position.
Insert the toothed shaft into the seat after lubricating the seals with grease.
Gently push the upper oil seal into place, using a hammer to push it into place. Install the retaining ring.
Install the bottom lock nut, bearing, plug.
Install the hold-down mechanism, spring and plug. Tighten tight.
Then install the rail on the car in reverse order. Be sure to do “camber-convergence” after the procedure for repairing or replacing parts.
If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.
Video (click to play).
VIDEO
