Do-it-yourself horn repair

How to repair the speaker yourself? FAQ Part8

Here you will find a description of the process of restoring a high-frequency dynamic head with illustrations.

Repairing tweeters is different from repairing tweeters and woofers, if only because the tweeters do not have a centering washer. Therefore, disassembling tweeters, even with a paper cone, takes much less time than disassembling midrange and woofers.

Often in high-frequency speakers, a membrane made of synthetic materials is used instead of a cardboard cone. The membrane has a dome shape and, together with the suspension, is a monolithic structure.

This design provides the minimum weight and maximum rigidity of the moving system, which is necessary for the reproduction of high frequencies.

Due to the very small stroke of the movable system, the process of centering the RF heads is greatly simplified. And in most tweeters with a dome membrane, centering is completely provided by the design of the dynamic head itself.

In most of the tweeters, the coil leads play the role of flexible leads, so maximum attention should be paid to their installation. One of the most common defects is precisely the breakage of these conclusions. This is especially true for high-power tweeters, which, as a rule, have a larger stroke of the moving system.

Another common defect is damage to the coil, which sometimes even leads to the destruction of the sleeve. The reason for this, most often, is the overload of the speaker.

The fact is that the HF heads have a relatively small power. For example, in a 100-watt three-way speaker, the tweeter can be rated for a sinusoidal power of only 6-10 watts. If such a speaker is connected to a 100-watt amplifier, and the user, using a tone block or an equalizer, sends even half of the entire power of the amplifier to the HF head, then the only thing left for the tweeter is to squeak for the last time.

To write this section, a friend supplied me with a pair of faulty 4GDV-1 tweeters. These speakers failed due to overload, and an interturn short circuit occurred in the coils.

I took some photos during the restoration of these speakers and tried to comment on each one.

I started the disassembly by removing the bell, which was attached to the plastic latches.

Tweeters, in which the diffuser is attached to the body with screws, are best amenable to repair.

After dismantling the four M3 screws, it became possible to separate the centering plastic flange from the body and free the movable speaker system.

But, it's not always that easy to do. Sometimes the suspension is glued to the body elements and then the moving system must be separated with the utmost care.

In other cases, the gimbal is lubricated with some kind of thick grease to prevent unnecessary vibrations from occurring if the gimbal is not pressed tightly enough.

In the dynamics of this design, separate flexible leads are not provided and their functions are performed by the coil leads.

To increase reliability, the coil leads are fixed with a narrow paper tape.

The flange has recesses into which the coil leads are placed.

In this picture you can see that the coil leads go through the slots.

Rewinding the coil of the tweeter is done in exactly the same way as the speakers of other frequency ranges.

True, in the collection of my templates there was no mandrel of the right size, and I made a template from an electrolytic capacitor of a suitable diameter. How to do this is described in detail here.

But, if you do not have very good eyesight, then you will have to use additional optics. The diameter of the wire used to wind the coils of tweeters is usually less than 0.1mm.

In particular, the 4GDV-1 speaker coil is wound with a wire with a diameter of only 0.08 mm. In such cases, I use binocular glasses with additional attached lenses.

The paper tape holding the coil leads turned out to be glued with 88 glue. In order not to damage the sleeve, when removing the old coil, I soaked the adhesive joint only in those places where the coil leads should have been laid.

After laying the leads, I closed the ends of the tape and glued them with BF glue.

In some tweeters, the coil leads are glued to the suspension. This prevents the occurrence of parasitic resonance, which can accelerate the destruction of the leads. In this case, it is necessary to use the most elastic adhesives, such as "Rubber", "Elastosil" and the like.

The assembly of the speaker is carried out in the reverse order and does not present any difficulties, since the centering of the moving system is provided by the speaker design itself.

Before the final assembly, you can check the phasing of the speaker, since, with such a small move of the moving system, it is more difficult to do this after assembly.

With proper phasing, the moving system should “jump” out of the body.

You can clean the coil leads from varnish with the help of an Aspirin tablet. Here I have already told how this can be done, but here I showed it.

Help the channel
Yandex money - 410011942355358
Sberbank 5469 3020 0029 4101

#carsound_with_hand_made #reviews #tests #speakers #stage #carsound #competitions #carsound_hand_made #setting #comparison #amplifiers #subwoofers #radio #horn #phase inverter #studio #workshop
#midbass #woofer_speakers #speakers_to_car #speakers_to_car #car_amplifier #sound_amplifier #power_amplifier #acoustic_system #amplifier_for_speakers
#subwoofer_to_car #amplifier_for_subwoofer #active_subwoofer #connecting_subwoofer #how_to_connect_subwoofer #connecting_amplifier
#connect_radio #how_connect_speakers #crystal

The year 2016 has come. A man came to me with sadness: the Ground Zero GZCT 0500-CL whistles stopped working:

Having opened one tweeter (it is very easy to disassemble - just unscrew the three screws on the rear), I found the following:

. the membrane crumbled completely and cannot be restored. Having sorted through the available Recones in my stock, I found this one - Alphard MT 23 NEO:

I compared it with the one that was installed in the food and realized that they completely match in terms of the diameter of the coil and the seats:

At your own risk, I replaced it with a new one, it turned out like this:

The result of this study turned out to be positive: everything worked the first time and no special deviations were noticed in the work. If a person had not pushed me to this idea, perhaps the hands would never have reached the restoration of those horns that lay on my shelf for a long time. I hope that this topic will help many people not to leave their devices prematurely and there is hope in solving the problem, which may not be so difficult.
Happy New Year.

1. Pay attention to the list of useful topics in the first post.
2. Terms and most popular models in messages are highlighted with quick tips and links to relevant articles in MagWikipedia and the Catalog.
3. To study the Forum, it is not necessary to register - almost all profile content, including files, pictures and videos, is open to guests.

The hand#opium of alfard's assemblers can get in the way. I saw a lot of things, but I have not seen such crookedly glued ones from others. I lie - I once bought a couple of food 6gd13 - one Fs had 2.8 - the other 6.5 kHz.

———- Post added on 01/06/2016 at 00:05 ———-

On the other side-The suspension is not a speaker, you can’t install it, you won’t check if Re, Fs and P max haven’t left much, why not?

In GZCT 0500-CL, this is a disease, after a few months the membrane crumbles. I have noticed more than once recently. I haven’t found other replacement options until today: it’s better than just throwing out the tweeters.,

Then what can I say - it works fine. Well, the diaphragms need to be changed on both. Since a repair solution has been found, it’s good, especially now most manufacturers are assemblers from ready-made cubes - I’m convinced that neither GZ nor Alphardn have any full-time metallurgists, polymer chemists, or glue specialists. Impedance and resonant - if the same, then the cross does not need to be redone?

they are all from the same factories, in fact, externally they differ in color, the shape of the clamping rings. The price varies depending on the material of the membrane by and large. Therefore, it is not surprising that the recons of some manufacturers are ideally suited for products of others, as long as the form factor of the speaker matches.
But for confirming this assumption - thank you very much!

This is how it was all done, compared to the original, my hearing didn’t notice that it had changed for the worse. I’ve seen a similar performance before, I don’t remember exactly: Obsidian audio or Sundown Audio. the squeaker worked louder than the other one from one set. I didn’t notice this in the GZ, but I already described the drawback.

Everything happens after the New Year .. Sometimes a fountain of ideas splashes out of us .. And we seem to think on the same topics, but we find another answer .. So everything has grown together? .And then the stocks of repair kits will run out ..

I think this will not happen, because I already know why everything fell apart and this jamb has already been eliminated not only by replacing the recon, but also by some refinement of the design.,

but I would take it and share it! Judging by the pictures, the foil decomposed not from overload.

That’s for sure, I love common sense, which are already so clear in this. In the first photo you can see in the middle that it’s not the dome and the lens that initially dangles when you touch it with your hands. In addition, the disadvantage is that there are sharp corners that affect the work to the destruction of the membrane during operation, it is also necessary to include vibration in the car in this list. As a result, the effect that was presented in the description is obtained. pressing on the magnetic system and a couple of three millimeters affects this. After this refinement, everything becomes normal: - chatter is excluded and will not affect the work in any way. To set the desired gap during fixation, polystyrene washers are enough to find the necessary minimum for this. : you just need to achieve a stable position and exclude it in the future.,

Do-it-yourself woofer repair

Today, the number of lovers of good sound who simply throw out a wheezing speaker does not decrease! At the same time, the cost of an analogue can amount to a tangible amount.
I think that the following will help to fix the speaker to anyone who has a great desire and perseverance, rather than buying a new woofer.

Available - a miracle of design thought, once the former column S-30 (10AC-222).

The organ clearly needed an operation - when gently pressing the diffuser, an extraneous overtone was heard (very similar to a quiet click). It was decided to trepan this organ.

First, the patient's flexible lead wires were soldered off (from the side of the contact pads).

Then, with a solvent (646 or any other capable of dissolving glue, such as “Moment”), using a syringe with a needle, the place where the dust cap and diffuser were glued (along the perimeter) was wetted.

Place of gluing the centering washer to the diffuser (along the perimeter).

And the place of gluing the diffuser itself to the diffuser-holder basket (again, along the perimeter).

In this state, the speaker was left for 15 minutes with periodic repetition of the previous three points (as the solvent was absorbed / evaporated)

Attention! When working with a solvent, safety measures should be observed - avoid contact with the skin (work with rubber gloves!) And mucous membranes! Do not eat or smoke! Work in a well ventilated area!

When wetting - use a small amount of solvent, avoiding getting it on the place of gluing the coil and centering washer!

Depending on the type of solvent and air temperature, after 10-15 minutes of the above operations, using a sharp object, you can carefully pry off the dust cap and remove it. The cap should either come off very easily or show very little resistance. If you need to make a significant effort - repeat the operations with wetting its edges with a solvent and waiting!

After peeling off the cap, carefully pour out the remaining solvent from the recess near the coil mandrel (by turning the patient over).

By this time, the centering washer has time to peel off. Carefully, without any effort, separate it from the diffuser holder basket. if necessary - re-wet the place of gluing with a solvent.

Wet the place where the diffuser is glued to the diffuser holder. We wait. We moisten again and again we wait. After 10 minutes, you can try to peel off the diffuser. Ideally, it should effortlessly separate from the diffuser holder (together with the coil and centering washer). But sometimes he needs a little help (the main thing is accuracy! Do not damage the rubber suspension.)

Wet the place where the diffuser is glued to the diffuser holder. We wait. We moisten again and again we wait. After 10 minutes, you can try to peel off the diffuser. Ideally, it should effortlessly separate from the diffuser holder (together with the coil and centering washer). But sometimes he needs a little help (the main thing is accuracy! Do not damage the rubber suspension.)

We clean the gluing places from the old glue and dry the disassembled speaker.

We examine the disassembled patient in order to find a malfunction. Let's look at the coil. In the absence of wear and tear on it and unstuck coils - leave it alone. When peeling off the coil, glue it back with a thin layer of BF-2 glue.

We carefully examine the place where the supply wires are attached to the diffuser. So it is - the patient has the most common malfunction in old speakers with a large diffuser stroke. Lead wire frayed/broken at attachment point. What kind of contact can we talk about when everything hangs on a thread passed to the center of the wiring!

Carefully bend the copper "antennae".

And solder the lead wire.
We repeat the operation for the second wiring (even if he is still alive - the disease is easier to prevent!)

We cut the supply wires at the break point.

. and we service the resulting tips (of course - first we use rosin). This is where caution is needed! Use a small amount of low-melting solder - the solder soaks into the wires like a sponge!

Carefully solder the wires in place, bend the copper “antennae” and glue (Moment, BF-2) the place where the wires fit to the diffuser. We remember - it is impossible to solder wires to the mounting "antennae"! Otherwise, how can the wiring be changed again in ten years? ;),

We collect the speaker. We put the diffuser with all the "farm" in the diffuser holder, orienting the wires to the places of their attachment. Then we check the correct polarity - when connecting a 1.5V AA battery to the terminals, when connecting the “+” battery to the “+” of the speaker, the diffuser will “jump” out of the basket. We put the diffuser so that its “+” lead wire is at the “+” designation on the speaker basket.

Solder the lead wires to the pads. Please note that the length of the wires has decreased by almost half a centimeter.Therefore, we solder them not as it was at the factory - to the hole in the plate, but with a minimum margin, to maintain the length.

Attach diffuser. We use the indication for the glue used (I recommend “Moment”, the main selection criterion, so that the glue can later be dissolved with a solvent). I usually stick the diffuser 1-1.5 cm up so that the centering washer does not touch the diffuser holder basket, then I apply a thin layer of glue on it and the basket with a brush, wait and firmly stick the diffuser inside, additionally press the washer to the basket along the perimeter with my fingers . Then I glue the diffuser (in the retracted state, avoiding distortion).

We leave the speaker upside down for several hours under load (that's why our film should not protrude beyond the plane of the diffuser!)

Then we check the speaker for the correctness of the assembly. We take out the centering and carefully check the course of the diffuser with your fingers. He should walk easily, without making overtones (there should be no touch of the coil and core!). We connect the speaker to the amplifier and apply low-frequency tones of low volume to it. Extraneous overtones should be absent. In case of incorrect gluing (skewed, etc.) - the speaker must be glued (see above) and reassembled, being careful! With a quality assembly, in 99% we will get a fully working speaker.

We glue the edge of the dust cap with glue, wait and carefully glue it to the diffuser. Accuracy and precision are needed here - a crookedly glued cap does not affect the sound quality, but it really spoils the appearance of the speaker. when gluing, do not press on the center of the cap. It can bend from this and you will have to peel it off, straighten it, coat it with a thin layer of epoxy from the inside for strength and glue it back.

We wait until the gluing of all parts is complete (about a day) and put the finished speaker in its place. We enjoy sound that is no worse than a new factory similar speaker.

That's it, now you see that fixing the speaker is an easy task. The main thing is slowness and accuracy! So in an hour, slowly, you can repair almost any woofer or midrange speaker of domestic or imported production (for sticking imported speakers, a more powerful solvent is often required, such as acetone or toluene, carefully - they are poisonous.) having a similar defect.

After the operation, the speaker seemed to have a second wind, and he continued to stand and play in the subwoofer.

The current state of the market with loudspeaker prices makes speaker repairs virtually unnecessary, but if it's difficult to get a new speaker to replace a broken or damaged one, then it makes sense to try to repair the damaged loudspeaker yourself. I got several coaxial-type speakers from various cars. Unfortunately, 2/3 of the speakers produce a distorted signal during playback, and the rest simply do not work. Below, material will be presented only on the restoration of “littered” coaxial-type car speakers for later use in the design or installation in multi-band stationary speaker systems. Before starting work, we will diagnostics speaker state.

1. Check for "litteriness". Coaxial-type speakers are not completely protected from foreign objects entering the magnetic gap, this is especially dangerous for old cars covered with rust or cars that have undergone body repairs. Checking is simple - gently with your fingers move diffuser inside the magnetic system, if at the same time extraneous sounds are clearly audible: rustles, crackles, rattles, then this means that metal debris may have got into the magnetic gap.

2. We take a tester and in the ohmmeter mode we check the resistance of the coil.If there is resistance, then this is our case. If there is no resistance, then it makes sense to check for an open thick flexible copper conductors from the speaker terminals to the diffuser. If there is no break, then most likely there is a break in the speaker coil and this case of self-repair is not considered in this article. Instructions for self-repair are given below.

1. Unsolder the flexible leads of the coil from the contact lobes for connecting the speaker and the contact lobes of the coaxial speaker.

2. Remove the coaxial speakers. Repair of the speaker system is not provided by the manufacturer and coaxial speakers are installed tightly. The column with reinforced tweeters was removed by drilling out an aluminum rivet. We work carefully, the main thing is not to tear or damage anything.

3. The speaker repair forums provide methods for dismantling the cone and centering washer. I also went down this path. We carry out work in the open air in the absence of sources of open fire! Having spent 100 ml of acetone, it was not possible to peel off the diffuser and the washer. The solvent quickly evaporated without softening the adhesive line. In order to save time and solvent, a cotton cord was placed on the gluing site and wetted with acetone; if necessary, wetting continued as evaporation continued until the glue softened. After softening with a thin screwdriver, pry off the edge of the centering washer and lift it above the gluing point. With a diffuser corrugation made of thin rubber, it is necessary to act more carefully and delicately so as not to damage the rubber.

Filling the solvent on the corrugation

4. Remove the diffuser. Damage to the insulation of the speaker coil is noticeable from debris that has got inside the magnetic system. It is useful under a magnifying glass to look at the degree of damage for the presence of short-circuited turns (scratches to a depth of more than 40% of the diameter of the coil wire), if there is a suspicion of short-circuited turns, then it is better to reject the speaker. Using a damp cloth, I cleaned the diffuser, centering washer and coil inside and out from dirt. Cleaning must be done carefully so as not to damage the coil.

There are scratches on the coil

5. The gap of the magnetic system is a sad sight. Strong magnet holds small metal debris and dust firmly. I tried to clean it mechanically, but the small size of the gap and its curvature did not allow me to successfully remove debris. I decided to use a strong jet of air from an air compressor - clearance failed! I had to use another tool - to use a high-pressure water jet from a car wash. The result is that I am all wet, but the gap is 100% cleared, and at the same time the entire frame of the frame shines like new. I tried to do it carefully, because the pressure of the water jet is very high and I admit, with special zeal, you can destroy the adhesive of the magnet of the speaker system. To prevent rust, you must immediately dry the frame and magnet. After drying, it is useful to check the cleanliness of the gap under a magnifying glass. And as experience has shown, it’s a good idea to seal the gap with tape to protect against accidental metal debris.

1. After cleaning and drying the components of the speaker, we assemble the structure. It's important not to rush. The goal is to position the coil in the magnet system exactly in the center and ensure there is no gap and no touching of the coil. From a strip of A4 office paper 10 cm wide, about 18 cm long, we fold the cylinder and insert it inside the diffuser coil. The cylinder should fit snugly against the coil and have no protrusions or bulges inside.
2. Let's try to insert such a construction into the magnetic system. Do not hurry! Better practice a few times. The cylinder should sink to the full depth of the magnetic gap and the coil should hardly move along the inserted cylinder.If the coil moves around the cylinder with great effort, then it is necessary to shorten the length of the paper strip, and if the coil moves freely, then it is necessary to increase the length of the paper strip.

Insert the cylinder into the gap

The coil moves tightly in the cylinder

Coil installed in the center

3. Holding the cylinder in the lower position, raise the diffuser and grease the area for gluing the centering washer with glue of the “Moment” type. We orient the washer along the leads of the coil conductors and speaker terminals, as well as along the cutouts in the corrugation of the diffuser. Attach the center washer.

4. Glue the corrugation of the diffuser.

5. After the glue has dried, solder the coil conductors to the terminals.

6. Carefully remove the paper cylinder. Checking the diffuser. If everything is done correctly, then there should be no extraneous sounds.

7. To close the magnetic system from debris, I sealed the coil hole from the diffuser side with black spunbond, and from the magnet side with adhesive tape.

Glue the center washer

Seal the diffuser hole

Tape the hole

8. We finally check the result of the work by connecting the speaker to the sound source.

Using this technique, several speakers were independently restored for installation in stationary acoustic systems and radio receivers to replace old or torn speakers.

I tried to collect. It didn't always work out.
I did the assembly differently. After gluing the corrugation of the diffuser and the centering washer, until the glue dried up, I connected the dynamic head through a low-resistance variable wire resistor to a transformer with a voltage of 6.3 volts.
It was enough to slightly move the diffuser.
In this case, the diffuser itself was centered. The noise disappeared immediately. Dry in this position.

The disadvantage of this method: 50Hz is still hard to withstand for a long time.

You need to connect the permanent!

Professionals - sure, but amateurs can do it!

Music from the video here - Our links: The page of the same name in VK.

A lamp is placed in the break of the system, in this case 24V 21W, which allows not to pass power more than 21 W fuse.

Dismantling and repair of the magnetic system of the tweeter from Amphiton.

This video shows sequential instructions for repairing a dynamic head, used in the video.

We got our hands to the stand, I slightly remade the usual power supply from the computer to fit my needs, I didn’t need to solder anything.

Do-it-yourself horn repair or solder broken ears.

hello people, it’s night in my yard, so slowly everything will be heard here, but trying to have such mouthpieces

report mouthpieces who knows how to speak correctly write in the comments just kidding of course in general traders

got all such kicks dt dtc 38 model already in the atomic state, this one I have already repaired, which means what was the problem of the jackpot

broke off on this cons of a warrior this plus one, I decided that's how I took a copper one and a half cable in my opinion and

just soldered to this cable, here there is a thread such a twisted copper thinly soldered a little bit, it fell in even at

I’m in textolite to stay on the hills on such then I collect it carefully like this, like this, I’m tired of my place

I twist this is done in order not to buy repair kits, a repair kit costs a pair of 350 rubles, depending on where you find

I don’t really want to pay, I decided to repair this contact with my own hands like this

crushing this one right away, I just hold it tightly, so remember, I moved and I take the well-known electrical tape, it remains only to find where I am

I put it, I shake it, and in the end it turns out what kind of thing is just cheap, angry, nothing will go anywhere, it won’t fall off

the only view is spoiled, as it were, but everything is fine with us on the front, I don’t play, I wanted to share this experience with you

Acoustic systems are divided into active, passive, the difference is limited by the presence of sound processing chips inside, powered by electric current.Amplifiers, filters, interfaces for reading flash media, decoding compressed audio formats. In the latter case, the speaker system approaches the functionality of the player. Consider what to do when the speakers do not work. Speakers include a myriad of sound reproduction devices, readers are interested in how they repair speaker systems with their own hands. You will need special glue. When the USSR was BF 4, AK 20. Accordingly (the basis of the glue), solvents are selected. It will be necessary, disassembling, dismantling the connection, repairing the speaker system yourself.

The movable part with a rigid plate creates air vibrations that are perceived by the human ear.

To repair speaker systems with your own hands, doubting how the device works, it is supposed to use the principle - do no harm. Regardless of the size, the speaker of the acoustic system is formed by electrical, mechanical parts. The first is formed mainly by inductors. The second includes a permanent magnet, a membrane. Here is an incomplete classification of the speakers of acoustic systems.

Readers are familiar with naturally occurring sound reproduction devices. Not always in the dynamics of the speaker system there is an inductor. Therefore, before repair, in the process, the master performs the correct classification of devices, properly carrying out the necessary operations.

Partially touched the device. Let us consider electrodynamic models in more detail. The diffuser forms the support of the cap. Represented by the likeness of a wide horn, on which the coil is glued from the back. Flexible copper wires carrying electric current fit directly to the membrane cap, penetrating the diffuser from the inside. Soldering points are visible from the front of the speaker. The coil is light, it is required to provide a relatively small inertia of the system. Even the tuning fork for the first octave lies at a frequency of 440 Hz. It is clear that for fluctuations of the indicated speed, the moving part of the acoustics speaker must be light.

The magnet is fixed on the frame. Usually circular. An inductor runs in both directions in the hole, moving the cap-membrane assembly. Connecting wires make constant vibrations. A centering washer is used to position the moving part along the vertical, horizontal axis. Perforated piece of elastic material, centering the location of the cap, diffuser. The centering washer does not interfere with the displacement of the moving part along the axis of symmetry. Repair is ridiculously simple:

Since the membrane and cap do not break, the point is to check the electrical installation, the soldering points of the wires, the integrity of the coil.

The inductance is wound in the image and likeness of the old one. Each layer of turns is smeared with BF 4 glue. Poor-quality soldering is performed again. Select the appropriate inductance winding technique. Usually a special device is made, formed by two pairs of racks, standing on a long board opposite each other. Both are connected by axles. One contains the core of the new coil, the other contains the purchased wire. It is recommended to buy wire with varnish insulation. It is necessary to maintain the correct thickness. You can measure using a caliper.

Winding is carried out relatively quickly while the glue dries. The coils fit tightly one to the other, professing the principle of the shuttle. It is important to maintain the correct number of revolutions, properly position the conclusions.

Often you have to disassemble the speaker of the speaker system for repair. Stock up on solvent. Glued joints are wetted, waiting for a fixed time. Please note: the joints are carefully cleaned. It is done regardless of the glue used to assemble the speaker of the speaker system.

Loudspeakers are different types of acoustic systems, each has a limited range of reproducible frequencies. Each works as a kind of mechanical filter.However, it happens that you need to shift the range ... You can raise the resonance frequencies of the electrodynamic system by varnishing the centering washer. A 5–10% solution of CAPON, cellulose in acetone are used. The varnish is applied with a soft brush in a circle. Avoid misalignment of the moving part of the loudspeaker of the speaker system. By sequentially performing operations, we will increase the resonance frequencies by 1.5–2 times, approximately one octave.

To lower the range, stick weights on the moving part. The correct ring of cardboard is attached to the back of the diffuser. It should be more precise to maintain the symmetry of the arrangement of parts. The sound pressure drops rapidly. The volume decreases, the range narrows from the high frequencies. However, in the resonance region, the loudspeaker will perform well.