DIY horn repair

How do I get my speaker repaired? FAQ Part8

Here you will find a description of the recovery process for the tweeter driver with illustrations.

Repairing tweeters differs from repairing tweeters and woofers, if only because the tweeters do not have a centering washer. Therefore, disassembling tweeters, even with a paper cone, takes much less time than disassembling the midrange and woofers.

Often, tweeters use a membrane made of synthetic materials instead of a cardboard cone. The membrane has a domed shape and, together with the suspension, is a monolithic structure.

This design ensures the minimum weight and maximum rigidity of the moving system, which is necessary for reproducing high frequencies.

Due to the very small travel of the moving system, the process of centering the HF heads is greatly simplified. And in most tweeters with a domed membrane, the alignment is provided by the very design of the dynamic head.

In most of the tweeters, the coil leads play the role of flexible leads, so maximum attention should be paid to their laying. One of the most common defects is the breakage of these conclusions. This is especially true for high-power tweeters, which, as a rule, have a larger movement of the moving system.

Another common defect is damage to the coil, which sometimes even leads to the destruction of the sleeve. This is most often caused by speaker overload.

The fact is that the HF heads have a relatively low power. For example, in a 100-watt 3-way speaker, the tweeter can be rated for a sinusoidal power of only 6-10 watts. If such a speaker is connected to a 100-Watt amplifier, and the user, using a tone block or an equalizer, sends even half of the amplifier's power to the HF head, then the HF speaker will only have to squeak for the last time.

For this section, a friend provided me with a pair of faulty 4GDV-1 tweeters. These speakers were out of order due to overload, and an interturn short circuit occurred in the coils.

I took some pictures while rebuilding these speakers and tried to comment on each one.

I started disassembling by removing the socket, which was attached to plastic latches.

The best repairable ones are tweeters, in which the diffuser is attached to the body with screws.

After dismantling the four M3 screws, it became possible to separate the centering plastic flange from the body and release the moving speaker system.

But, it is not always so easy to do this. Sometimes the suspension is glued to the elements of the case and then the moving system must be separated with the utmost care.

In other cases, the suspension is lubricated with some kind of thick grease to prevent the occurrence of unnecessary vibrations when the suspension is not firmly pressed against it.

In the dynamics of this design, separate flexible leads are not provided and their functions are performed by the leads of the coil.

To increase reliability, the coil leads are secured with a narrow paper tape.

The flange has recesses in which the coil leads are placed.

In this picture, you can see that the coil leads go through the slots.

The rewinding of the tweeter coil is done in the same way as for the speakers of other frequency ranges.

True, in the collection of my templates there was no mandrel of the required size, and I made a template from an electrolytic capacitor of a suitable diameter. How to do this is described in detail here.

But, if your vision is not very good, then you will have to use additional optics. The diameter of the wire used to wind the tweeter coils is usually less than 0.1mm.

In particular, the 4GDV-1 speaker coil is wound with a wire with a diameter of only 0.08 mm. In such cases, I use binocular glasses with additional attachment lenses.

The paper tape holding the coil leads turned out to be glued with 88th glue. In order not to damage the sleeve, when removing the old coil, I soaked the adhesive joint only in those places where the coil leads should have been laid.

After laying the leads, I closed the ends of the tape and glued them with BF glue.

In some tweeters, the coil leads are glued to the gimbal. This prevents parasitic resonance from occurring, which can accelerate lead destruction. In this case, you need to use the most elastic adhesives, such as "Rubber", "Elastosil" and the like.

The speaker assembly is carried out in the reverse order and is not difficult, since the alignment of the moving system is provided by the speaker design itself.

Before final assembly, you can check the phasing of the speaker, since, with such a small stroke of the moving system, it is more difficult to do this after assembly.

With correct phasing, the moving system should "jump" out of the body.

You can clean the coil leads from the varnish with the help of an Aspirin tablet. Here I have already described how this can be done, and here I have shown it.

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# autosound_with_hands # reviews # tests # speakers # stage # car audio # competition #carsound_hand_made # tuning # comparison # amplifiers # subwoofers # radio tape recorders # horn # bass reflex # studio # workshop
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The year 2016 has come. A man came to me with sadness: Ground Zero GZCT 0500-CL whistles stopped working:

Having opened one squeaker (it's very easy to understand - just unscrew the three screws on the rear), I found the following:

... the membrane has completely crumbled and cannot be restored. After going through the existing Recones in my stock, I found this - Alphard MT 23 NEO:

I compared it with the one that was installed in the food and realized that they completely coincide in the diameter of the coil and the seats:

At my own peril and risk, I replaced it with a new one, it turned out like this:

The result of this study turned out to be positive: everything worked the first time and there were no special deviations in the work. If the person had not pushed me to this idea, perhaps they would never have gotten around to restoring those horns that had been on my shelf for a long time. I hope that this topic will help many people not to part with their devices prematurely and there is hope in solving the problem, which may not be so difficult.
Happy New Year.

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Hand # opium of alfard collectors can get in the way. I saw a lot of things, but I did not see so crookedly glued ones on others. Lies - once bought a couple of food 6gd13 - one Fs had 2.8 - the other 6.5 kHz.

———- The message was added on 01/06/2016 at 00:05 ———-

On the other side-The suspension is not a speaker, you can't put it, you can't check it, if Re, Fs and P max did not leave much, why not?

GZCT 0500-CL has a disease, after a few months the membrane disintegrates. I noticed more than once recently. I have not yet found other replacement options until today: this is better than just throwing out the tweeters.,

Then what can I say - it works and okay. Well, on both the diaphragms need to be changed. Since a repair solution has been found, this is good, all the more so now most of the manufacturers are assemblers from ready-made cubes - I am convinced that neither GZ nor Alphardn have any full-time metvllurgists, polymer chemists, or glue specialists. Impedance and resonant - if the same, then the cross does not need to be redone?

all of them from the same factories in fact, outwardly differ in color, in the shape of the pressure rings. The price varies depending on the membrane material in general. Therefore, it is not surprising that the speakers of some manufacturers are ideally suited for the products of others, as long as the form factor of the speaker matches.
But thank you very much for confirming this assumption!

So it was all done, compared to the original, my hearing did not notice that it had changed for the worse. I met a similar performance before, I don’t remember exactly: Obsidian audio or Sundown Audio. The difference was noticeable, even without much listening to their sound: one the buzzer worked louder than the other from the same set.

Everything happens after the New Year .. Sometimes a fountain of ideas splashes out of us all by ourselves .. And we think about the same topics, but we find another answer .. So everything is fucking together? .And then stocks of rem kits will run out ..

I think this will not happen, because I already know what caused everything to fall apart and this jamb has already been eliminated not only by replacing the Recon, but also by some modification of the design.,

but I would take and share! judging by the pictures, the foil did not decompose from overload.

That's for sure, I love common sense, which is already clear in this. In the first photo you can see in the middle that it is not the dome and the lens dangles initially when you touch it with your hands. In addition, the disadvantage is that there are sharp corners that affect the work. on the destruction of the membrane during operation, it is also necessary to include vibration in the car in this list. As a result, the effect that was presented in the description is obtained. Elimination of sharp corners and the addition of spacers for fixing allows you to eliminate this deficiency of the manufacturer. In fact, the lens is fixed by means of a conical pressing to the magnetic system and a couple of three millimeters affects it. After this revision, everything becomes normal: - bumpiness is excluded and will not affect the work in any way. To set the required clearance when fixing, polystyrene washers are enough to find the required minimum for this. : you just need to achieve a stable position and exclude it in the future.,

DIY woofer repair

Today, the number of good sound lovers who just throw out a wheezing speaker is not decreasing! At the same time, the cost of an analogue can be a tangible amount.
I think that the following will help anyone who has a great desire and perseverance to fix the speaker, rather than buying a new woofer.

Available - a miracle of design thought, once the former column S-30 (10AC-222).

The organ clearly needed to be operated - when gently pressing the diffuser, an extraneous sound was heard (very similar to a quiet click). It was decided to trepan this organ.

First, the patient's flexible lead wires were sealed off (from the side of the contact pads).

Then a solvent (646 or any other capable of dissolving glue, such as "Moment") was moistened with a syringe with a needle, the place where the dust cap and the diffuser were glued (along the perimeter).

Place where the centering washer is glued to the diffuser (perimeter).

And the place of gluing the diffuser itself to the basket of the diffuser-holder (again around the perimeter).

In this state, the speaker was left for 15 minutes with periodic repetition of the previous three points (as the solvent was absorbed / evaporated)

Attention! When working with a solvent, safety measures should be observed - avoid contact with skin (use rubber gloves!) And mucous membranes! Do not eat or smoke! Work in a well ventilated area!

When wetting - use a small amount of solvent, avoiding getting it on the gluing area of ​​the coil and centering washer!

Depending on the type of solvent and air temperature, after 10-15 minutes of the above operations, using a sharp object, you can gently pry off the dust cap and remove it. The cap should either come off very easily or offer very little resistance. If you need to make significant effort, repeat the operations with wetting its edges with a solvent and waiting!

After peeling off the cap, carefully pour out the remaining solvent from the recess near the coil mandrel (by turning the patient over).

By this time, the centering washer has time to peel off. Carefully, without using any efforts, we separate it from the basket of the diffuser holder. if necessary, re-wet the gluing site with a solvent.

Wet the place where the diffuser is glued to the diffuser holder. We wait. Wet again and wait again. After about 10 minutes, you can try to peel off the diffuser. Ideally, it should detach from the diffuser holder (together with the coil and centering washer) without effort. But sometimes he needs a little help (the main thing is accuracy! Do not damage the rubber suspension.)

Wet the place where the diffuser is glued to the diffuser holder. We wait. Wet again and wait again. After about 10 minutes, you can try to peel off the diffuser. Ideally, it should detach from the diffuser holder (together with the coil and centering washer) without effort. But sometimes he needs a little help (the main thing is accuracy! Do not damage the rubber suspension.)

We clean the gluing points from the old glue and dry the disassembled speaker.

We examine the disassembled patient for a malfunction. We look at the coil. If there are no scuffs and loose turns on it, we leave it alone. When peeling off the coil, glue it back with a thin layer of BF-2 glue.

We carefully inspect the place where the lead wires are attached to the diffuser. So it is - the patient has the most common malfunction in old speakers with a large diffuser travel. The lead wire at the attachment point is frayed / broken. What kind of contact can we talk about when everything hangs on a thread passed into the center of the wiring!

Gently bend back the copper "antennae".

And we solder the lead wires.
We repeat the operation for the second wiring (even if he is still alive - the disease is easier to prevent!)

We cut the supply wiring at the break point.

... and we serve the resulting ends (of course - first we use rosin). Here you need to be careful! Use a small amount of low-melting solder - the solder is absorbed into the wire like a sponge!

Gently solder the wiring into place, bend the copper "antennae" and glue (Moment, BF-2) the place where the wiring adheres to the diffuser. Remember - you cannot solder the wires to the fastening "antennae"! Otherwise, how can the wiring be changed again in ten years? ;),

We collect the speaker. We put the diffuser with the entire “household” into the diffuser holder, orienting the wiring to the places of their attachment. Then we check the correctness of the polarity - when connecting a 1.5V AA battery to the terminals, when connecting the “+” battery to the “+” of the speaker, the diffuser will “jump out” of the basket. We put the diffuser so that its “+” lead wire is at the “+” mark on the speaker basket.

We solder the lead wires to the contact pads. Please note that the length of the wires has decreased by almost half a centimeter.Therefore, we solder them not as it was at the factory - to the hole in the plate, but with a minimum margin to keep the length.

We glue the diffuser. We use the indication for the glue used (I recommend "Moment", the main selection criterion, so that the glue can be subsequently dissolved with a solvent). I usually stick out the diffuser 1-1.5 cm up so that the centering washer does not touch the basket of the diffuser holder, then I apply a thin layer of glue on it and the basket with a brush, wait and firmly push the diffuser inside, additionally press the washer against the basket around the perimeter with my fingers ... Then I glue the diffuser (in the retracted state, avoiding distortion).

We leave the speaker upside down for several hours under load (this is why our film should not protrude beyond the plane of the diffuser!)

Then we check the speaker for correct assembly. We take out the centering and carefully check the diffuser travel with our fingers. It should walk easily, without emitting overtones (there should be no touching of the coil and core!). We connect the speaker to the amplifier and send low-frequency tones of low volume to it. Extraneous sounds should be absent. In case of improper gluing (misalignment, etc.), the speaker must be glued (see above) and reassembled, being careful! With a high-quality assembly, we get 99% of a fully working speaker.

We glue the edge of the dust cap with glue, wait and carefully glue it to the diffuser. Here you need accuracy and precision - a crookedly glued cap does not affect the sound quality, but it spoils the speaker's appearance very much. when gluing, do not press on the center of the cap. It can bend from this and you will have to peel it off, straighten it, coat it from the inside with a thin layer of epoxy for strength and stick it back.

We wait until all parts are completely glued together (about a day) and put the finished speaker in its place. We enjoy sound that is no worse than that of a new factory analogue speaker.

That's it, now you can see that fixing a speaker is an easy task. The main thing is slowness and accuracy! So in an hour, you can slowly repair almost any woofer or midrange speaker of domestic or foreign production (for gluing imported speakers, a more powerful solvent is often required, such as acetone or toluene, carefully - they are poisonous.) Having a similar defect.

After the operation, the speaker seemed to have a second wind, and he continued to stand and play in the subwoofer.

The current state of the market with loudspeaker prices makes speaker repair virtually unnecessary, but if there are difficulties in purchasing a new speaker instead of a damaged or damaged one, then it makes sense to try to restore the damaged loudspeaker with your own hands. I came across several coaxial speaker systems from various cars. Unfortunately, 2/3 of the speakers produce a distorted signal during playback, and the rest simply do not work. Below will be presented material only on the restoration of "littered" coaxial-type car speakers for use in the future in the design or installation in multi-way stationary speaker systems. Before starting work, we will carry out diagnostics speaker states.

1. Check for "trash". Coaxial speakers are not fully protected from foreign objects falling into the magnetic gap, this is especially dangerous for old cars covered with rust or cars that have undergone body repairs. Checking is simple - gently with your fingers moving diffuser inside the magnetic system, if at the same time extraneous sounds are clearly audible: rustles, crackles, rattling, then this means that metal debris may have got into the magnetic gap.

2. We take a tester and in ohmmeter mode we check the resistance of the coil. If there is resistance, then this is our case.If there is no resistance, then it makes sense to check for an open circuit thick flexible copper conductors from the speaker terminals to the diffuser. If there is no break, then most likely there is a break in the speaker coil and this case of self-repair is not considered in this article. Instructions for self-repair are given below.

1. We unsolder the flexible leads of the coil from the contact lugs of the speaker connection and the contact lugs of the coaxial speaker.

2. Remove the coaxial speakers. Repairs of the speaker system are not provided by the manufacturer and coaxial speakers are installed tightly... The column with reinforced tweeters was removed by drilling an aluminum rivet. We work carefully, the main thing is not to tear or damage anything.

3. On the forums for repairing speakers, there are ways to dismantle the diffuser and centering washer. I also went along this path. We carry out work in the open air in the absence of open fire sources! After spending 100 ml of acetone, it was not possible to peel off the diffuser and the washer. The solvent evaporated quickly without softening the glue line. In order to save time and solvent, a cord made of cotton cloth was placed in place of gluing and moistened with acetone; if necessary, moistening as it evaporated continued until the glue softened. After softening with a thin screwdriver, he forged the edge of the centering washer and lifted it over the gluing point. With the corrugation of the diffuser made of thin rubber, you need to be more careful and delicate so as not to damage the rubber.

Pouring solvent onto the corrugation

4. Remove the diffuser. From trapped debris inside the magnetic system, damage-tearing of the speaker coil insulation is noticeable. It is useful under a magnifying glass to see the degree of damage for the presence of short-circuited turns (scratches to a depth of more than 40% of the coil wire diameter), if there is a suspicion of short-circuited turns, then it is better to reject the speaker. Using a damp cloth, I cleaned the diffuser, centering washer and coil inside and outside from dirt. Cleaning should be done carefully so as not to damage the coil.

There are scratches on the coil

5. The gap in the magnetic system is a sad sight. Strong magnet holds fine metal debris and dust firmly. I tried to clean it mechanically, but the small size of the gap and its curvature did not allow successfully removing debris. Decided to use a strong blast of air from an air compressor - it was not possible to clear the gap! Another remedy had to be used - a high-pressure jet of water from a car wash. The result is that I am all wet, but the gap is 100% cleaned, and at the same time the whole frame of the frame shone like new. I tried to do it carefully, since the pressure of the water jet is very high and I suppose with special zeal it is possible to destroy the gluing of the speaker magnet. To prevent rusting, you must immediately dry the frame and magnet. After drying, it is useful to check the cleanliness of the gap under a magnifying glass. And as experience has shown, it is good to seal the gap with tape to protect it from accidental metal debris.

1. After cleaning and drying the speaker components, we assemble the structure. It's important not to rush. The goal is to position the coil in the magnet system exactly in the center and to ensure there is clearance and no touching the coil. From a strip of A4 format office paper 10 cm wide and about 18 cm long, we roll up the cylinder and insert it into the diffuser coil. The cylinder must fit snugly against the spool and not have any protrusions or bulges inside.
2. Let's try to insert such a structure into the magnetic system. Do not hurry! Better to practice a few times. The cylinder should descend to the full depth of the magnetic gap and the coil should hardly move over the inserted cylinder. If the coil moves along the cylinder with great effort, then it is necessary to shorten the length of the paper strip, and if the coil moves freely, then it is necessary to increase the length of the paper strip.

Insert the cylinder into the gap

The coil runs tightly in the cylinder

The reel is centered

3. Holding the cylinder in the lower position, raise the diffuser and grease the area for gluing the centering washer with glue of the "Moment" type. We orient the washer according to the leads of the coil conductors and speaker terminals, as well as along the cutouts in the corrugation of the diffuser. We glue the centering washer.

4. We glue the corrugation of the diffuser.

5. After the glue has dried, we solder the coil conductors to the terminals.

6. Carefully remove the paper cylinder. Checking the diffuser travel. If everything is done correctly, then there should be no extraneous sounds.

7. To close the magnetic system from debris, I sealed the coil hole on the side of the diffuser with black spunbond, and on the side of the magnet with tape.

Glue the centering washer

Sealing the diffuser hole

Seal the hole with tape

8. Finally, we check the result of the work by connecting the speaker to the sound source.

Using this technique, several speakers were independently restored for installation in stationary speaker systems and radio receivers to replace old or torn speakers.

I tried to collect this way. It didn't always work out.
I did the assembly differently. After gluing the corrugation of the diffuser and the centering washer, until the glue has dried, I connected the dynamic head to a 6.3 volt transformer through a low-resistance variable wire resistor.
It was enough to slightly stir the diffuser.
In this case, the diffuser itself is centered. The noises disappeared immediately. In this position, he dried.

The disadvantage of this method: 50Hz is still hard to withstand for a long time.

The constant must be connected!

Professionals - a must, but amateurs can do so!

Music from the video here - Our links: The page of the same name in VK.

A lamp is placed in the break of the system, in this case 24V 21W, which allows the fuse not to pass more than 21 W of power.

Dismantling and repair of the magnetic system of the buzzer from Amfiton.

In this video, the sequential instructions for repairing the dynamic head are shown, used in the video.

We got our hands on the stand, slightly altered the usual power supply unit from the computer to fit our needs, nothing to re-solder.

Do-it-yourself horn repair or soldering broken ears.

hi people, it’s night in my yard, so little by little everything will be heard here, but trying to have my mouthpiece like this

report the mouthpiece who knows how to speak correctly write in the comments just kidding of course in general traders

got all these kicks dt dtc 38 model already in an atomic state I already repaired this, which means what was the jackpot problem

broke off on this the minuses of the warrior this plus, I decided in this way I took a copper cable poltorashka in my opinion and

I just soldered to this loop there is a thread here such a twisted copper thinly soldered a little bit it sunk was carried out even at

me in a textolite to stay on the hills on such then I collect it carefully like this, I'm so tired in its place

I twist it in order not to buy repair kits, a repair kit costs a couple of 350 rubles, depending on where you find

I don't really want to pay, I decided to repair this contact with my own hands like this

crushing this one at once, I just hold it tightly, so remember moving and taking all the well-known electrical tape, it remains only to find where I am

you put it down and in the end it turns out what kind of thing is just cheap angry nothing will go anywhere will not fall off

the only view is spoiled, as it were, but on the front, everything is fine with us, I don’t play this is the experience I wanted to share with you

Acoustic systems are divided into active, passive, the difference is limited by the presence of sound processing chips inside, powered by electric current. Amplifiers, filters, interfaces for reading flash media, decoding compressed audio formats. In the latter case, the speaker system approximates the functionality of the player. Consider what to do when the speakers are not working.The speakers include a myriad of sound reproducing devices, readers are interested in how they repair speakers with their own hands. You will need special glue. In the days of the USSR, BF 4, AK 20. Solvents are selected accordingly (based on glue). It will be necessary, disassembling, dismantling the connection, and repairing the speaker system yourself.

A movable part with a rigid plate creates air vibrations that are perceived by the human ear.

Do-it-yourself repair of acoustic systems, doubting how the device works, is supposed to use the principle - do not harm. Regardless of the size, the speaker of the speaker system is formed by electrical, mechanical parts. The first is formed mainly by inductors. The second includes a permanent magnet, a membrane. Here is an incomplete classification of speakers of acoustic systems.

Readers are familiar with naturally occurring audio reproducing devices. There is not always a coil in the speaker system. Therefore, before the repair, in the process, the master performs the correct classification of the devices, properly carrying out the necessary operations.

Partially touched the device. Let's consider in more detail the electrodynamic models. The diffuser forms the support for the cap. It is represented by the semblance of a wide horn on which the coil is glued from the back side. Flexible copper conductors, carrying an electric current, fit directly to the membrane cap, punching the diffuser from the inside. The soldering points are visible from the front of the speaker. The coil is light; it is required to provide a relatively low inertia of the system. Even the tuning fork A of the first octave lies at 440 Hz. It is clear that for fluctuations of the indicated speed, the moving part of the speaker of the acoustics must be light.

The magnet is fixed on the bed. Usually circular. An inductor runs in both directions in the hole, moving the cap-membrane assembly. The connecting wires make constant vibrations. A centering washer is used to position the movable part along the vertical, horizontal axis. Perforated piece of elastic material, centering the location of the cap, diffuser. The centering washer does not interfere with the displacement of the moving part along the axis of symmetry. The repair is ridiculously simple:

Since the membrane and cap do not break, it is a matter of checking the electrical installation, the soldering points of the wires, the integrity of the coil.

Inductance is wound in the image and likeness of the old one. Each layer of turns is coated with BF 4 glue. Poor soldering is performed anew. Select the appropriate inductance winding technique. Usually a special device is made, formed by two pairs of racks, standing opposite each other on a long board. Both are connected by axles. One contains the core of the new coil, the other contains the purchased wire. It is recommended to buy the wire with varnish insulation. It is necessary to maintain the correct thickness. You can measure using a vernier caliper.

Winding is relatively fast while the glue dries. The coils fit tightly to one another, adhering to the shuttle principle. It is important to maintain the correct number of turns, properly position the terminals.

It is often necessary to disassemble a speaker of a speaker system for repair. Stock up on solvent. The glued joints are wetted, waiting for a fixed time. Please note: the joints are carefully cleaned. It is made regardless of the glue used to assemble the speaker of the speaker system.

Speakers are different types of speaker systems, each with a limited frequency response. Everyone works as a kind of mechanical filter. However, it happens that you need to shift the range ... You can raise the resonance frequencies of the electrodynamic system by varnishing the centering washer. Used 5-10% solution of ZAPON, cellulose in acetone. The varnish is applied with a soft brush in a circle.Avoid misaligning the moving part of the loudspeaker. Consecutively performing the operations, we will increase the resonance frequency by 1.5–2 times, approximately one octave.

To lower the range, weights should be glued to the moving part. The correct ring of cardboard is attached to the back of the diffuser. It is necessary to more precisely maintain the symmetry of the arrangement of the parts. The sound pressure drops rapidly. The volume decreases, the range is narrowed from the high frequency side. However, in the area of ​​resonance, the loudspeaker will perform well.