10. Pusher assemblies are separated. This requires:
♦ turn the pushers with the mainsprings;
♦ remove the pushers assembly from their seats through the front holes.
11. The fuse button and fuse are separated. This requires:
♦ remove the pin of the fuse button and knock out the fuse shaft;
♦ separate the fuse button with the fuse and the spring.
12. The striker cam is separated. This requires:
♦ knock out the cam axle of the striker plate with a punch;
♦ Separate the striker plate cam together with the spring and the fuse pusher.
13. The striker plate is detached. This requires:
♦ unscrew the locking lever screw;
♦ knock out the lever axis with a punch through the screw hole;
♦ Detach the striker plate. The assembly of the gun is carried out in the reverse order.
The shotgun is chambered for 12, 16, 20 and 28 calibers and has many modifications.
Disassembly of the gun is carried out in the following order: 1. The forend is separated from the barrel. This requires: - pull the forend latch towards you; - separate the forend from the barrel.
2. The butt plate is separated from the butt. This requires: - unscrew the two fixing screws; - the bed is separated from the box.
3. The box is separated from the box. This requires: - unscrew the false screw; - to separate the box from the box.
4. The staple is detached. This requires: - turn the jumper in any direction; - unscrew the bracket screw; - separate the bracket. 5. The trigger is separated from the box. This requires: - unscrew the screws of the trigger base; - separate the trigger from the box.
6. Triggers are detached. This requires: - knock out the axis of the triggers with a punch; - separate the triggers together with the springs.
7. Platooners are separated. This requires: - to knock out the cocking axes with a punch; - to separate the cocks from the box.
8. Separated sear. This requires: - knock out the sear axis with a punch; - to separate the sear along with the springs.
9. Triggers are detached. This requires: - knock out the hammer axis with a punch; - remove the triggers from the box.
10. Pusher assemblies are separated. This requires: - turn pushers with mainsprings; - remove the pushers assembly from the seats through the front holes.
11. The fuse button and fuse are separated. This requires: - remove the pin of the fuse button and knock out the fuse shaft; - separate the fuse button with the fuse and the spring.
12. The striker cam is separated. This requires: - knock out the cam axle of the striker plate with a punch; - separate the cam of the striker plate together with the spring and the fuse pusher.
13. The striker plate is detached. This requires: - unscrew the locking lever screw; - knock out the lever axis with a punch through the screw hole; - separate the striker plate.
The assembly of the gun is carried out in the reverse order.
Topic: How to remove the shank of the Izh-58 forend? - Malfunctions, repairs, maintenance of weapons - All about weapons - Main section - Forums of the Open Club Petersburg Hunter
)) As an experiment, I glued two strips of electrical tape to the fore-end in the grooves for the trunks, cutting off the excess. The bolt on the assembled gun disappeared (when you just attach it to the barrels, it still exists along the axis). Objectively, the forend has become more difficult to "fasten", it is even necessary to adjust the hand. and more thin stripes don't help. it will probably be the same with all other materials.
About descents. then something needs to be sanded, I guess myself, just, maybe someone performed this operation, and can warn against rash actions ..
Yes, thank you very much everyone! And since such sympathetic people have already gathered here, there are a few more questions that worry me, but I would not want to start a separate topic:
- on the outside of the barrels, below, right at the muzzle - there are shells. I understand that it is impossible to get rid of them, but there are suspicions that, despite the lubrication with a net, the processes of destruction in them are in full swing. how to deal with them?
- today I was in an auto chemistry store, and purely by chance I saw such a thing - it's called ColorWax - general polish. The label promises to preserve, hide scratches, shine for any surface. Composition - wax, synth wax, water, something else))). The thought has worked, maybe try to cover the trunks (all in scratches) with this rubbish (black)? Arguments for - I really don't want to rip off the old bluing in order to turn it around, as a result I'm not sure .. Anti-shine (does not bother), polish (does it scratch itself?)
- what will happen if you try to restore bluing on an old gun, without completely ripping off the old one, but only then, the cat will go away by itself during a trial impact, and then rub the restorer into the “white” places ??
Message -dimon- "June 30, 2010, 12:45 pm.
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Everything about hunting and fishing in the Republic of Belarus - forums
jagurt »09 Feb 2015, 00:59
daniandrejj14 »11 Feb 2015, 15:47
jagurt »12 Feb 2015, 15:58
goblin85 »12 Feb 2015, 16:35
jagurt »13 Feb 2015, 17:09
daniandrejj14 »13 Feb 2015, 20:46
jagurt »13 Feb 2015, 21:43
nemrod »12 Aug 2015, 21:10
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1. For correct installation it is necessary to replace the IZH-58 MA 4-4 centerpiece with the IZH-43 centerpiece. The new centerpiece (Izh-43) is not symmetrical, it is installed in place of the old one with a short shoulder up. To do this, unscrew the bracket screw, remove the bracket, unscrew the tail screw, install the new centerpiece in place of the old one with the short shoulder up and screw the tail screw. The end of this screw should be flush with the top surface of the box shank.
If the screw protrudes, it is necessary to put a washer of the required thickness between the middle and the shank (above or below the middle, depending on the overhang of the butt tree over the metal of the box shank), if the screw sinks, it is necessary to nail down the desired (in place - upper or lower) end of the middle. If this requirement (at the end of the screw) is not met, there may be problems with the safety mechanism of the gun.
In principle, you can leave the old centerpiece, this will somewhat change the vertical retraction of the butt and the overhang of the tree over the metal of the box in the area of the locking lever.
2. The contour of the butt end of the IZH-43 is somewhat different from the IZH-58MA. An additional radius protruding forward appeared on the Izh-43 stock, which serves to reduce the vertical backlash of the stock head in the box.
For a more thorough installation, it is necessary to fit the front end of the butt to the box.
First, we mark the surplus. It is necessary to thickly dilute a drop of black oil paint or orange red lead with vegetable oil. You can use ordinary shoe polish, which does not need to be diluted, but it is less visible. Using a brush, apply a very thin layer of this paint on the surface of the box in contact with the front end of the stock. Do not forget to process the end of the box shank. Press down the stock. Remove the stock and carefully cut down the spots where the paint has been imprinted. Repeat this operation several times to obtain a satisfactory imprint area of the support surface of the box to the butt end (according to CD not less than 80%). The gap between the butt end face and the bottom of the groove for the box shank should be from 0.3 to 1mm. To avoid chipping, the top and bottom sharp edges of the box should not cut into the butt end. It may be necessary to remove excess wood from the top if the lever will not turn.
3. When installing the safety clip of the IZH-58M gun, it is necessary to install a wooden insert in the groove under the buttstock shank, fix it with PVA glue. When installing a bracket from IZH-58MA, it is necessary to modify the end of the groove in place with a semicircular chisel. You can replace the bracket with Izh-43.
4. The clamping screw for IZH-43 is shorter than for IZH-58MA by about 50 mm, so you need to either replace it with a short one or insert a bushing. It is advisable to put a Grover puck.
5. The final tightening of the clamping screw should be done with the box with the butt in a vice: install the butt on the box, wrap the butt head with several layers of cloth, slightly clamp the butt head in the vise jaws and tighten the clamping screw. This technique helps to avoid the appearance of cracks on the cheeks of the butt and gaps along the shanks of the box and the larva.
Then remove the excess wood protruding above the metal box with a file. They can interfere with the rotation of the locking lever at the top. Most often, it is enough to chamfer at the joint so that only the hand does not cut when carrying. Then you need to polish the file traces with a sandpaper. At the outer places of sawing, after skinning, it is necessary to remove the pile - moisten with water, let it dry and sand it with used fine sandpaper. Repeat 2-3 times. Lubricate with linseed oil or at least vegetable oil, stand and wipe with a rag. If desired, you can also correct the shape of the butt neck.
6. After installing the stock, check the operation of the gun mechanisms, especially pay attention to the safety catch. When cocking, the hammers should not leave marks in the grooves on the butt end. When the safety device is on, there should not be a shot, the end of the safety frame should not stop the triggers pressed forward to failure, there should not be a spontaneous shot at the moment the safety device is turned off, etc.
7. In a month or two, or after a dozen shots, the tree will shrink in the places where the box rests. It is advisable to remove the butt and slightly correct the fit by carefully cutting a little wood at the points of contact, checking the gap at the end of the box shank.
The tightening screw must be tightened occasionally.
To maintain moisture resistance, it is advisable to lubricate the wooden parts of the gun with linseed oil (or at least vegetable oil) twice a year, let it stand for half an hour or an hour and wipe it dry with a rag.
I bought it in Brest 28 years ago (1977).
The gun cost 110 rubles.The price, of course, is low, but it was not easy to buy it in those scarce times. I was just lucky.
The gun's passport had a quality mark with the inscription "USSR". For many years of hunting for the most diverse game, I was convinced that the quality mark on my IZH-58 MA rifle was absolutely deserved.
The gun was made at a really high quality level at the Izhevsk Mechanical Plant of the Order of Lenin.
When buying a gun, I found no defects. True, the lock lever was pulled back with some effort, but after cleaning, lubricating and several hunts, everything returned to normal.
Zeroing showed that the right barrel (payday) even exceeds the accuracy rate of the battle indicated in the passport (53%) and is 55%, and the left barrel (choke) exactly matches the passport data - 62%. I think that the length of the barrels (730 mm) also contributed to the good fight of the gun.
I thought my gun was classically beautiful. I especially liked the stock with the pistol neck. True, the stock was made of birch and, as it turned out later, became the most vulnerable part of the gun, but, I repeat, it was beautiful and carefully crafted. I did not like shotguns with an English stock. The shock absorber was plastic, but this did not bother me at all. The weight of the gun was 3.2 kg, but I did not feel tired on the go hunting, as I was young and healthy.
Fifteen years later, I saw a new IZH-43 gun in the hands of my hunting friend and was surprised at the ugliness of the stock of this gun: poorly processed, poorly fitted, like a croaker, it spoiled the whole look of the gun. But everyone said and wrote that IZH-43 is, as it were, an improved or improved IZH-58! The hunters examined my friend's new gun and in one voice appreciated: the croaker! My friend had to change the roughly made stock for a new one, made of beech, and the gun immediately took on a more noble look. There could be no talk of any goodness of his gun with the factory stock.
I never believed that the main thing in a gun is goodness, but I also did not deny its importance.
My gun turned out to be good, i.e. when the gun was raised to the shoulder, it lay down comfortably, and I saw without any special corrections that the gun was aimed at the target that I had chosen. The eye, aiming bar, front sight and target are in one line.
Nevertheless, I firmly knew that I would only shoot well if I trained. No, I didn’t torture myself with training, but before the start of the season, before going hunting, just before the hunt, even getting up to the number, I selected targets and several times threw the gun to my shoulder and, making sure that everything was in order, waited for the beast. I think that hunters who shoot well without training are a rare exception. Thus, if the gun is more or less applied, and the hunter is also training, then he will hit the target even offhand. My average firing rates at flying targets were almost normal - 3 shots per bird, and quite good at ground targets: at hares and foxes - 2 shots, at wild boars - 1.5, at moose - 1 shot.
Everything went well, I was very pleased with my gun, but the unexpected happened: as a result of my carelessness, it fell off the cliff onto sharp stones, and a dent up to 0.5 mm deep formed on the left barrel (on top). On the very first hunt (I shot at the black grouse at a distance of 30 m), I realized that the projectile of the shot is cut into two parts horizontally and not a single pellet actually hits the target. Shooting on a blank sheet of Whatman paper confirmed my assumptions - the target was not hit, the shot went to the right and left of the target. The gun turned into a single barrel. True, quite unexpectedly, I discovered that if I shoot at a target moving from the side and make a mistake in anticipation, then sometimes I hit the target - the scattering of shot horizontally became larger, but, unfortunately, the number of wounded animals increased, as the accuracy of the battle decreased. And shooting at targets flying at me (with a bayonet) and away from me became ineffectual.
I didn't know what to do. The hunters' advice was the same - to have the gun repaired. But one day a hunting trail brought me together with V.M. Limizoi, who was not only a good hunter, but also knew weapons well. He advised me an easy way to repair.It is necessary to fire 15–20 shots at a fast pace from each barrel with cartridges with any shot, the barrel will heat up, and then fire 5–7 bullets from the crippled barrel. Passing along the red-hot barrel, the bullets straighten out the dent. And so I did. He fired all shots in a warm army shooting range.
The result was satisfactory. The dent in the barrel has been halved. Trial shots showed that the accuracy of the left barrel was 53%, and before the repair it was practically zero.
Soon my IZH-58 rifle will be 30 years old. It has served and will serve me for many more years. I will still have happy hunts.
IZH-58MA model shotguns have horizontal barrels and triple locking with the lower striker plate for both hooks and the control lever for the upper (small) hook.
At the end of the turn, the strike plate under the action of the spring and the transmission lever moves forward and goes into the cutouts of the underbarrel hooks, locking the barrels from below, and the head of the control lever locates on a small hook, locking the barrel additionally from above. The rifle is ready to fire.
There are only 8 new parts: two trigger levers that keep the ejectors cocked; middle lever, performing the sear functions by analogy with the trigger mechanism; the axis of the levers; three-point leaf spring; pusher; pusher spring; two separate ejectors for each barrel, which are halves of the IZH-58MA model.
Rice. 49. Details and mechanisms for automatic ejection of the sleeve of the IZH-58MAE gun: 1 - block of barrels; 2, 3 - left and right ejectors; 4 - ejector spring; 5 - pusher of ejectors; 6 - bolt box; 7 - cocks; 8 - feeder; 10 - forearm hinge; 11, 13 - left and right trigger levers; 12 - middle lever; 14 - three-point spring; 20 - forend.
Changes in the wooden part of the forend are caused by the need to accommodate new parts of the ejector mechanism in it.
The shells cannot be removed. For a gun, shells are the worst, the rest is repaired. Therefore, the price is not ridiculous, but the very thing. a tree can be made by someone, but it seems to me the amount will be from three to five rubles.
When I soaked mine with linseed oil, I figured for myself that it wouldn’t be worth doing it for less than four rubles.
COGNACAnd I thought about another dispute:
for whom the VVK is closed: “Vitaly Milonov I offer 30,000 rubles. to the one who is the first of any smooth Saiga in my presence to put all 5 bullets in an A4 sheet at 100 meters in 5 shots. Geographically Moscow and Moscow region. I'll bring a rack under the target. Tuning and attachments do not matter. Your position (sitting, standing, off the bag, etc.) does not matter. The cartridges do not matter.
Accordingly, in order to weed out amateurs by **** to fool, the fee for someone trying to do this is 3,000 rubles. If you lose, I keep the contribution to myself. If you win, the deposit will be returned to you. 10 to 1, gentlemen.
The offer is a public offer and is valid until December 31, 2013.
Update 2: In connection with the received proposal to cool the barrel for an hour after each shot, we limit the execution time to 30 minutes. 6 minutes per shot, in my opinion, is more than enough. And 4 hours of my free time on weekends are much more expensive than 3 tr. your contribution.
)”
Everything about hunting and fishing in the Republic of Belarus - forums
jagurt »09 Feb 2015, 00:59
daniandrejj14 »11 Feb 2015, 15:47
jagurt »12 Feb 2015, 15:58
goblin85 »12 Feb 2015, 16:35
jagurt »13 Feb 2015, 17:09
daniandrejj14 »13 Feb 2015, 20:46
jagurt »13 Feb 2015, 21:43
nemrod »12 Aug 2015, 21:10
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In addition to, so to speak, the everyday semiautomatic rifle "Snipe auto", in my arsenal there is also an IZH-58MA. This gun did not appear by chance. After the sale of the IZH-27, with a slightly curved lower barrel, it became necessary to purchase a new version to enter the forest.
A conventional double-barreled shotgun with horizontal or vertical barrels is excellent for various amateur or commercial hunting. I needed it for hunting ungulates and going out into the forest in order to check for traps on the paths.In the forest, such a gun has a number of advantages over a self-loading one: a capercaillie may suddenly fly out, a hazel grouse, and maybe an elk come out, there will be no time for a quick and silent reloading.
After a short search, one friend of the hunter offered his Izh-58MA, immediately agreed to take it. I knew firsthand about his good qualities. Most importantly, it was produced during the Soviet years. At that already distant time, the choice of models was limited and they bought what was in stores. The hunters were quite satisfied with the quality and combat of those products, although it happened that designers and craftsmen were scolded. If they only knew that after the 90s it would start producing from the same factories. It seems the same, but try, find a quality one. Since then, they began to chase copies with the USSR quality mark. With this badge, they serve for a very long time.
Design and characteristics
IZH-58 is a classic double-barreled shotgun with a horizontal arrangement of barrels, was produced both serially and in a piece version. The release of it and subsequent modifications at the Izhevsk plant began back in 1958. and lasted for 30 years. They were produced in 20, 16 and 12 calibers.
The IZH-58MA I purchased differed from its predecessors in a number of improvements, for example, an automatic fuse appeared.
It was created on the basis of IZH-58M, their release began in 1977
Main technical characteristics
Barrel length is 720mm
Weight - 3.2kg. The maximum pressure is 750 atm. Muzzle constriction - left barrel - choke, right - payday. The fuse is automatic. Birch stock with pistol neck.
The gun can be easily disassembled into three parts: the forend, the barrels and the receiver block. The barrels and the shoe are made of high quality steel. The barrels and chamber are chrome plated.
A beautiful pattern engraved on the receiver
The previous owner took care of his weapon, as a result of which the barrels did not acquire shells, the shuttle did not appear, and as further use showed, everything is in order with the mechanisms of the gun.
It has good weight distribution and application. A worthy fight: accuracy and accuracy suit. Quite good performance both when shooting with a shot and a bullet. It gives especially good results when using shot cartridges of its own charge. Plus it's light enough for 12 calories.
It can be considered as a contender for the place of a universal gun.
There is no ejector on IZH-58MA, it will appear later on IZH-58MAE
In conclusion, I would like to note that the Izh-58, regardless of its modifications, is a very simple, but at the same time strong, reliable and high-quality gun. Provided there is a proper attitude towards it, it will serve faithfully for a very long time.
Why does the plant not again release the IZH-58MA Shotgun? People like it so much and the demand for it is more than for Izh-43, which no one takes. We need to be flexible in the production of weapons. I also reviewed a lot, bought the ATA arms Pegasus, but if Izh-58MA turned up a new one, I would buy or at least exchange for mine.
They say special steel was used in the IZH-58MA rifle, therefore they are durable. In short, manufacturers need to think about it. There are so many imported weapons in the country that on this basis it is necessary to fight for a buyer, and not wait for some company to come to the Russian market and conquer it. The same thing happens with cars, we can, but we don't want to. Maybe some good kickbacks are being received on the ground, but nothing is moving forward.
They have forgotten how to make good weapons.
It is unlikely that they have forgotten how to learn how, it is just that the management system at our factories is not clear. All over the world, manufacturers try to meet the buyer, constantly monitor the market - they study demand, find out what does not suit the owners of the guns and immediately make some changes. And here ..., in general, everything is different, apparently the peculiarity of Russian business.
Tell me, what do the letters MA mean?
M - modernized, MA - modern + automatic fuse, MAE - all the same + ejector
I am the proud owner of 58 MA 12 calories. The first gun I purchased, before that I hunted either with my father's Sauer 49-64 onwards. or with grandfather's Izh 18.Before me, the 58th fired up to 40 shots, then it gathered dust in the closet of the previous owner (from 86th to 2008), from which external marks on the trunks in the form of light rust began to work. Everything that is written is absolutely correct. The most heaped fight my 58 shows when using self-loading cartridges with an obturator and a stained felt wad, without a container (for some reason it sows with it), I mainly use the fraction "3" and "1" (I like 1 more because the accuracy is better yes and if the game sits behind a dense wall of reeds, "1-tsa" gets it better). If you choose your first gun and turn up a 58th, you need to take it, not think. Based on the price-quality ratio, it is difficult to find better than 58MA, and as the author noted, subject to the observance of "women love affection, and weapons are grease" serves excellently.
I go to the waterfowl with an Izh 58, 16-gauge, 63 year old, English box. Of all the guns with which I walked through the swamps, I chose and left him. Lightweight butt-action shotgun for walking hunting. Out of inexperience, I took a new Izh 27EM ... I won't say anything further, I sold it in a few months. Fraction No. 3, No. 4 in preference when you trample a duck out of bitterness. If you hit in the field at a long distance, then №1. Here I agree. I do not agree to sit-down sausage through the reeds, not in the shooting range, tea. The barrels, ideally, there is not even a hint of the shuttle, only the butt burst in the fuse area. I ordered a new one. Self-loading cartridges: "Falcon" 1.9-2g., Plastic container.
Recently acquired Izh 58ma 12k 1975, judging by the reviews there are no dissatisfied, the only thing is that the old-timers warn about firing a bullet, especially from a check.
Izh58MA passed to me by inheritance from my father. Was purchased in 82. Used very little. I went hunting with him several times. I am very pleased with the gun. I won't sell it, I'll leave it to my son as a keepsake from my grandfather. And for myself, on the hunt, I want to take a five-charge Izh 155 or a high-quality Turk.
Guys who tell me, I have an IZH 58 ma gun. And the ejector walks very tightly on it. I took it apart, cleaned it, smeared it. And the result is zero. Can anyone advise me what to do?
There is a number on the lock under the trunks on the right, and on the left you can see the screw, it regulates the ejector, it may be tightened too much, you cannot completely unscrew it, loosen it.
I have the same IZH58 ma. Left firing pin not charging, how to fix it, who knows?
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From Belgosohota.by Created 8 minutes ago
From GAVIALL Created Yesterday at 07:36
From Nikolay Sh Created on June 3, 2009
From Denis Created on August 15, 2009
From Denis Created on August 15, 2009
From Kolobok Created on April 17, 2012
From Your-Optic Created Tuesday at 20:59
Quote: Originally written by Nikitos: 1) Is it deadly?
If not much, then not fatal, but not aesthetically pleasing.
Quote: Originally written by Nikitos: 2) Can you fix it?
As an option, chop it down to the cylinders, get a cop or spaniel and discover new types of hunting with a gun dog (there are cylinders and sockets that rule). For duck flights and goose, take a multi-charge.
Quote: Originally written by Nikitos: 4) Where can you order new barrels to fit clearly? 5) Can one barrel be swapped?
I think for Izh27 this is economically impractical - it is much cheaper to buy another gun in good preservation.
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IZH-58. Reviews. Exploitation. Repair. Grade:
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