♦ knock out the axis of the triggers with a drift;
10. Pushers are separated in the assembly. For this you need:
♦ turn pushers with mainsprings;
♦ remove the pushers as an assembly from the sockets through the front holes.
11. The fuse button and fuse are separated. For this you need:
♦ remove the pin of the safety button and knock out the shaft of the safety device;
♦ separate the safety button with safety catch and spring.
12. The cam of the striker plate is separated. For this you need:
♦ knock out the striker plate cam axis with a drift;
♦ separate the striker cam together with the spring and the fuse follower.
13. The striker plate is separated. For this you need:
♦ unscrew the screw of the locking lever;
♦ knock out the lever axis with a drift through the screw hole;
♦ separate the striker plate. The gun is assembled in the reverse order.
The gun is issued under cartridges of the 12th, 16th, 20th and 28th calibers and has many modifications.
Disassembly of the gun is carried out in the following order: 1. The forearm is separated from the barrel. For this you need: - pull the forearm latch towards you; - separate the fore-end from the barrel.
2. The butt plate is separated from the butt. For this you need: - unscrew the two fixing screws; - the bed is separated from the box.
3. The bed is separated from the box. For this you need: – unscrew the false screw; - separate the box from the box.
4. The clip is separated. For this you need: - turn the jumper in any direction; - unscrew the bracket screw; - separate the bracket. 5. The trigger mechanism is separated from the box. For this you need: – unscrew the screws of the base of the trigger mechanism; - separate the trigger mechanism from the box.
6. Triggers separate. For this you need: - knock out the axis of the triggers with a punch; – separate the trigger hooks together with the springs.
7. The cockers are separated. For this you need: - knock out the cocking axles with a punch; - separate the cocking from the box.
8. Separate whispers. For this you need: - knock out the sear axis with a drift; - separate the sear along with the springs.
9. Triggers separate. For this you need: - knock out the axis of the triggers with a drift; - remove the triggers from the box.
10. Pushers are separated in the assembly. For this you need: - turn the pushers with mainsprings; - remove the pushers as an assembly from the sockets through the front holes.
11. The fuse button and fuse are separated. For this you need: - remove the pin of the fuse button and knock out the fuse axis; – Separate the safety button with the fuse and the spring.
12. The cam of the striker plate is separated. For this you need: - knock out the axis of the locking plate cam with a punch; – Separate the cam of the striker plate together with the spring and the fuse pusher.
13. The striker plate is separated. For this you need: - unscrew the screw of the locking lever; - knock out the axis of the lever with a punch through the screw hole; - separate the striker plate.
The gun is assembled in the reverse order.
Subject: How to remove the Izh-58 handguard shaft? - Malfunctions, repair, maintenance of weapons - All about weapons - Main section - Forums of the Open Club St. Petersburg Okhotnik
)) As an experiment, I glued two strips of electrical tape on the forearm into the grooves for the trunks, cutting off the excess. The shaft on the assembled gun disappeared (when you just attach it to the barrels, there are still along the axis of the barrels). Objectively, the forearm has become more difficult to “fasten”, you even have to bring it up with your hand. and more thin stripes do not help. it will probably be the same with all other materials.
About the descents. then, something needs to be polished, I myself guess, just, maybe someone performed this operation, and can warn against rash acts ..
Yes, thank you very much everyone! And since such sympathetic people have gathered here, there are a few more questions that concern me, but I would not like to start a separate topic:
- on the outside of the trunks, from below, right at the muzzle - there are shells. I understand that it is impossible to get rid of them, but there are suspicions that, despite being lubricated with a non-sweeper, the processes of destruction in them are in full swing. how to deal with them?
– today I was in an autochemistry store, and purely by chance I saw such a thing – called ColorWax – polish in general. On the label promises to save, hide scratches, shine for any surface. Composition - wax, synth wax, water, something else there))). The idea has earned, maybe try to cover the trunks with this rubbish (black) (everything is scratched)? Arguments for - I really don’t want to rip off the old bluing in order to turn it over, as a result I’m not sure .. Anti-shine (does not bother), polish (does she scratch herself?)
- what will happen if you try to restore the bluing on the old gun, not completely tearing off the old one, but only then, the cat will go away by itself during the trial exposure, and then rub the reducing agent into the “white” places ??
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All about hunting and fishing in the Republic of Belarus - forums
jagurt » 09 Feb 2015, 00:59
daniandrejj14 » 11 Feb 2015, 15:47
jagurt » 12 Feb 2015, 15:58
goblin85 » 12 Feb 2015, 16:35
jagurt » 13 Feb 2015, 17:09
daniandrejj14 » 13 Feb 2015, 20:46
jagurt » 13 Feb 2015, 21:43
nemrod » 12 Aug 2015, 21:10
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1. For correct installation, it is necessary to replace the IZH-58 MA 4-4 mullion with the IZH-43 mullion. The new mullion (Izh-43) has become not symmetrical, it is installed in place of the old one with a short shoulder up. To do this, unscrew the bracket screw, remove the bracket, unscrew the tail screw, install a new mullion in place of the old one with a short shoulder up and screw the tail screw. The end of this screw should be flush with the top surface of the box shank.
If the screw protrudes, it is necessary to put a washer of the required thickness between the mullion and the shank (above or below the mullion, depending on the overhang of the butt tree over the metal of the shank of the box), if the screw sinks, it is necessary to saw the desired (in place - upper or lower) end of the mullion. If this requirement (at the end of the screw) is not met, there may be problems with the safety mechanism of the gun.
In principle, you can leave the old mullion, this will somewhat change the vertical retraction of the butt and the overhang of the tree over the metal of the box in the area of the locking lever.
2. The contour of the butt end of the IZH-43 is somewhat different from the Izh-58MA. An additional radius protruding forward appeared on the Izh-43 butt, which served to reduce the vertical play of the butt head in the box.
For a more thorough installation, it is necessary to drive the front end of the butt to the box.
First, mark the excess. It is necessary to thickly dilute a drop of black oil paint or orange red lead with vegetable oil. You can use ordinary shoe cream, which does not need to be diluted, but it is less visible. With a brush, apply a very thin layer of this paint on the surfaces of the box in contact with the front end of the stock. Do not forget to process the end face of the box shank. Press the example. Remove the buttstock and carefully cut down the places where the paint was imprinted. Repeat this operation several times to obtain a satisfactory imprint area of the support surface of the box to the butt end (at least 80% according to design documentation). The gap between the end face of the butt shank and the bottom of the groove for the shank of the box should be from 0.3 to 1 mm. To avoid chipping, the upper and lower sharp edges of the box should not cut into the butt end. It may be necessary to remove excess wood from above if the lever will not turn.
3. When installing the safety bracket of the IZH-58M gun, it is necessary to install a wooden insert in the groove under the shank of the butt bracket, fasten it with PVA glue. When installing the bracket from IZH-58MA, it is necessary to modify the end of the groove in place with a semicircular chisel. You can replace the bracket with Izh-43.
4. The coupling screw for IZH-43 is shorter than for IZH-58MA by about 50 mm, so you need to either replace it with a short one or insert a sleeve. It is advisable to put the Grover puck.
5. The final tightening of the pinch screw must be done with the box with the stock in a vice: place the stock on the box, wrap the butt head with several layers of fabric, lightly clamp the butt head in the jaws of the vise and tighten the pinch screw. This technique helps to avoid the appearance of cracks on the cheeks of the butt and gaps along the shanks of the box and larva.
Then remove the excess wood protruding above the metal of the box with a file. They may interfere with the rotation of the locking lever at the top. Most often, it is enough to chamfer at the joint so that only the hand does not cut when carrying. Then you need to polish the traces of the file with sandpaper. On the outer places of sawing, after sanding, it is necessary to remove the pile - moisten with water, allow to dry and sand off with a spent fine sandpaper. Repeat 2-3 times. Lubricate with drying oil or at least vegetable oil, stand and wipe with a rag. If desired, you can also correct the shape of the neck of the butt.
6. After installing the butt, check the operation of the gun mechanisms, especially pay attention to the fuse. When cocked, the hammers should not leave marks in the grooves on the butt end. When the fuse is on, there should not be a shot, the end of the fuse frame should not stop the triggers pressed forward to failure, at the moment the fuse is turned off there should not be a spontaneous shot, etc.
7. After a month or two or after a dozen shots, the tree will shrink in the places where the box rests. It is advisable to remove the buttstock and slightly correct the fit by carefully sawing off some wood at the contact points, checking the gap at the end of the box shank.
The clamping screw needs to be tightened occasionally.
To maintain moisture resistance, it is advisable to lubricate the wooden parts of the gun twice a year with drying oil (or at least vegetable oil), stand for half an hour or an hour and wipe dry with a rag.
I bought it in Brest 28 years ago (1977).
The gun cost 110 rubles.The price, of course, is low, but it was not easy to buy it in those scarce times. I'm just lucky.
On the passport of the gun was a quality mark with the inscription "USSR". For many years of hunting for the most diverse game, I was convinced that the quality mark on my IZH-58 MA gun was absolutely deserved.
The gun was made really at a high quality level at the Izhevsk Order of Lenin Mechanical Plant.
When buying a gun, I did not find any defects. True, the lock lever was retracted with some effort, but after cleaning, lubrication and several hunts, everything returned to normal.
The shooting showed that the right barrel (pay) even exceeds the accuracy of the battle indicated in the passport (53%) and is 55%, and the left barrel (choke) exactly matches the passport data - 62%. I think that the length of the barrels (730 mm) contributed to a good shotgun action.
I thought my gun was classically beautiful. I especially liked the stock with a pistol neck. True, the stock was made of birch and, as it turned out later, became the most vulnerable part of the gun, but, I repeat, it was beautiful and carefully crafted. I did not like guns with an English stock. The shock absorber was plastic, but that didn't bother me at all. The mass of the gun was 3.2 kg, but I did not feel tired on running hunts, as I was young and healthy.
Fifteen years later, I saw a new IZH-43 gun in the hands of my hunting friend and was surprised by the ugliness of the stock of this gun: poorly processed, poorly fitted, looking like a croaker, it spoiled the whole look of the gun. But everyone said and wrote that IZH-43 is, as it were, an improved or improved IZH-58! The hunters examined my friend's new gun and unanimously rated it: croaker! My friend had to change the roughly made stock for a new one, made of beech, and the gun immediately took on a more noble look. There could be no talk of any applicability of his gun with a factory stock.
I never thought that the main thing in a gun is applicability, but I did not deny its importance either.
My gun turned out to be applied, i.e. when throwing the gun to the shoulder, it lay comfortably, and without any special corrections I saw that the gun was aimed at the target that I had chosen. Eye, rib, front sight and target are on the same line.
However, I knew for sure that I would shoot well only if I practiced. No, I didn’t torture myself with training, but before the start of the season, before hunting trips, immediately before the hunt, even standing on the number, I chose targets and several times tossed the gun to my shoulder and, making sure that everything was in order, waited for the beast. I think that hunters who shoot well without training are a rare exception. Thus, if the gun is more or less applied, and the hunter is also training, then he will hit the target even offhand. My average shooting at flying targets was almost normal - 3 shots per bird, and at ground targets it was quite good: hares and foxes - 2 shots, wild boars - 1.5, elks - 1 shot.
Everything went well, I was very pleased with my gun, but the unexpected happened: as a result of my negligence, it fell off a cliff onto sharp stones, and a dent up to 0.5 mm deep formed on the left barrel (top). On the very first hunt (I shot at a black grouse at a distance of 30 m), I realized: the shot shell is cut into two parts horizontally and not a single pellet actually hits the target. Shooting at a blank sheet of drawing paper confirmed my assumptions - the target was not hit, the shot went to the right and left of the target. The gun has become a single-barrel. True, quite unexpectedly, I discovered that if I shoot at a target moving from the side, and make a mistake in the lead, then sometimes I hit the target - the scattering of shots horizontally has become larger, but, unfortunately, the number of wounded animals has increased, as the accuracy of the battle has decreased. And shooting at targets flying at me (with a bayonet) and from me became fruitless.
I didn't know what to do. The advice of the hunters was the same - to give the gun for repair. But one day the hunting trail brought me to V.M. Limisoy, who was not only a good hunter, but also knew weapons well. He gave me an easy fix.It is necessary to make 15-20 shots at a fast pace from each barrel with cartridges with any shot, the barrel will become hot, after which 5-7 shots of bullets should be fired from the crippled barrel. Passing through the red-hot barrel, the bullets straighten the dent. So I did. All shots were fired in a warm army shooting range.
The result was satisfactory. The dent on the barrel has halved. Trial shots showed that the accuracy of the left barrel is 53%, and before the repair it was actually zero.
Soon my IZH-58 rifle will be 30 years old. It has served and will serve me for many years to come. I will have more happy hunts.
Shotguns of the IZH-58MA model - with a horizontal arrangement of trunks and triple locking of the lower striker plate on both hooks and a control lever on the upper (small) hook.
At the end of the turn, the locking bar moves forward under the action of the spring and the gear lever and enters the cutouts of the underbarrel hooks, locking the barrels from below, and the head of the control lever finds itself on a small hook, additionally locking the barrel from above. The gun is ready to fire.
There are only 8 new parts: two trigger levers holding the ejectors cocked; the middle lever, which, by analogy with the trigger mechanism, performs the functions of a sear; axis of levers; three-blade leaf spring; pusher; pusher spring; two separate ejectors for each barrel, which are halves of the ejector of the IZH-58MA model.
Rice. 49. Details and mechanisms for automatic ejection of the IZH-58MAE gun case: 1 - block of barrels; 2, 3 - left and right ejectors; 4 – ejector spring; 5 - ejector pusher; 6 - bolt box; 7 - cockers; 8 - feeder; 10 - forearm hinge; 11, 13 - left and right trigger levers; 12 - middle lever; 14 - three-feather spring; 20 - handguard.
Changes in the wooden part of the forearm are caused by the need to place new parts of the ejector mechanism in it.
The shells cannot be removed with anything. For a shell gun, this is the worst thing, the rest is repaired. Therefore, the price is not funny, but that's it. someone can make a tree, but it seems to me that the amount will be from three to five rubles.
When I soaked mine with linseed oil, I figured it out for myself that I wouldn’t do it for less than four rubles.
COGNAC, And I thought about another dispute:
whose VVK is closed: “Vitaly Milonov I offer 30 000 r. the one who is the first of any smooth Saiga in my presence to put all 5 bullets in 5 shots into an A4 sheet at 100 meters. Geographically Moscow and MO. I'll bring a target stand. Tuning and attachments do not matter. Your position (sitting, standing, with a bag, etc.) does not matter. Ammo doesn't matter.
Accordingly, in order to weed out lovers of **** hurt, the contribution for trying to do this is 3,000 rubles. If you lose, I keep the deposit. If you win, the deposit will be returned to you. 10 to 1 gentlemen.
The offer is a public offer and is valid until December 31, 2013.
Update 2: In connection with the proposal to cool the barrel for an hour after each shot, we limit the execution time to 30 minutes. 6 minutes per shot is more than enough in my opinion. And 4 hours of my free time on the weekend are much more expensive than 3 tr. your contribution.
)”
All about hunting and fishing in the Republic of Belarus - forums
jagurt » 09 Feb 2015, 00:59
daniandrejj14 » 11 Feb 2015, 15:47
jagurt » 12 Feb 2015, 15:58
goblin85 » 12 Feb 2015, 16:35
jagurt » 13 Feb 2015, 17:09
daniandrejj14 » 13 Feb 2015, 20:46
jagurt » 13 Feb 2015, 21:43
nemrod » 12 Aug 2015, 21:10
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In addition to, so to speak, the everyday shotgun of the Bekas Auto semi-automatic rifle, there is also IZH-58MA in my arsenal. This gun did not appear by chance. After the sale of IZH-27, with a slightly crooked lower trunk, it became necessary to purchase a new version to enter the forest.
A conventional double-barreled shotgun with horizontal or vertical barrels is great for various amateur or commercial hunting. I needed it for hunting ungulates and going out into the forest in order to check the traps on putiks.In the forest, such a gun has a number of advantages over a self-loading one: a capercaillie can suddenly fly out, a hazel grouse, or maybe an elk can come out, there will be no time for quick and silent reloading.
After a short search, a familiar hunter offered his Izh-58MA, immediately agreed to take it. He knew firsthand about his good qualities. Most importantly, it was produced in the Soviet years. At that already distant time, the choice of models was limited and they bought what was in stores. Those products of hunters were quite satisfied with the quality and combat, although it happened that designers and craftsmen were scolded. If only they knew that after the 90s it would begin to be produced from the same factories. It seems the same, but try, find a quality one. Since then, they began to chase copies with the USSR quality mark. With this badge, they serve for a very long time.
Design and characteristics
IZH-58 - a classic double-barreled shotgun with a horizontal arrangement of trunks, produced both in series and in piece design. The release of it and subsequent modifications at the Izhevsk plant began back in 1958. and continued for 30 years. They were produced in 20, 16 and 12 gauges.
The IZH-58MA I purchased differed from its predecessors in a number of improvements, for example, an automatic fuse appeared.
It was created on the basis of IZH-58M, their release began in 1977
Main technical characteristics
Barrel length is 720mm
Weight - 3.2 kg. The maximum pressure is 750 atm. Choke - left barrel - choke, right barrel - pay. The fuse is automatic. Birch stock with pistol neck.
The gun is easily disassembled into three components: the forearm, barrels and receiver block. Barrels and block are made of high quality steel. The barrels and chamber are chrome plated.
A beautiful pattern is engraved on the receiver
The previous owner took care of his weapon, as a result of which the barrels did not acquire shells, no shat appeared, and as further use showed, everything is in order with the gun mechanisms.
It has good weight distribution and applicability. A worthy fight: accuracy and accuracy suit. Good performance both when firing shots and bullets. It gives particularly good results when using self-loading shotgun shells. Plus, it's light enough for a 12cal.
It can be considered as a contender for the place of a universal gun.
There is no ejector on IZH-58MA, it will appear later on IZH-58MAE
In conclusion, I would like to note that the Izh-58, regardless of its modifications, is a very simple, but at the same time strong, reliable and high-quality gun. Provided that it is properly treated, it will serve faithfully for a very long time.
Why does the plant not produce the IZH-58MA Shotgun again? People like it so much and the demand for it is greater than for Izh-43, which no one takes. It is necessary to be flexible in the release of weapons. I also reviewed a lot, bought an ATA Arms Pegasus assault rifle, but if a new Izh-58MA turned up, I would buy or at least exchange it for my own.
In the IZH-58MA gun, they say special steel was used, and therefore they are durable. In short, manufacturers need to think. There are so many imported weapons in the country that, based on this, it is necessary to fight for a buyer, and not wait for some company to come to the Russian market and conquer it. The same thing happens with cars, we can, but we don’t want to. Maybe some people get good kickbacks on the ground, but nothing is moving forward.
They forgot how to make good weapons.
It is unlikely that they have forgotten how to unlearn it, it's just that the control system at our factories is not clear. All over the world, manufacturers are trying to meet the needs of the buyer, constantly monitor the market - they study the demand, find out what does not suit the owners of guns and immediately make some changes. But with us ..., in general, everything is different, apparently a feature of Russian business.
Tell me, what do the letters MA stand for?
M - modernized, MA - modern + automatic fuse, MAE - all the same + ejector
I am a happy owner of 58 MA 12cal. The first gun I bought, before that I hunted either with my father's Sauer 49-64 onwards. or with grandfather's Izh 18.Before me, the 58th made up to 40 shots, then it gathered dust in the closet of the previous owner (from the 86th to 2008), which caused external marks on the trunks in the form of light rust. Everything written is absolutely correct. My 58 shows the most accurate fight when using self-loading cartridges with an obturator and a salted felt wad, without a container (for some reason it sows with it), I mainly use shot "3" and "1" (I like 1 more because accuracy is better yes and if the game sits behind a dense wall of reeds, the “1st” gets better). If you choose the first gun and turned up the 58th, you need to take, not think. Based on the price-quality ratio, it is difficult to find better than 58MA, and as the author noted, if “women love affection, and weapons love lubricant”, it serves perfectly.
I go to waterfowl with "Izh" 58 16-gauge, 63 model year, English stock. Of all the guns with which he walked through the swamps, he chose and left it with him. Lightweight handgun for hunting. Out of inexperience, I took a new Izh27EM ... I won’t say anything further, I sold it after a few months. Shot number 3, number 4 in preference when you trample the duck from the mustard. If you hit at a long distance in the field, then No. 1. I agree here. I do not agree through the reeds sedentary sausage, not in the dash, tea. The barrels are ideal, there is not even a hint of a shat, only the butt burst in the area of \u200b\u200bthe fuse. I ordered a new one. Self-loading cartridges: "Falcon" 1.9-2g., plastic container.
I recently acquired Izh 58ma 12k 1975, judging by the reviews of those who are not satisfied, the only thing that old-timers warn about shooting a bullet, especially from a check.
Izh58MA was inherited from my father. Was bought in 82. Has been used very little. I went hunting with him several times. Very pleased with the rifle. I won’t sell it, I’ll leave it to my son as a keepsake from my grandfather. And for myself, for hunting, I want to take a five-charge Izh 155 or a quality Turk.
Guys who will tell me, I have a gun IZH 58 ma. And the ejector is very tight on it. I took it apart, cleaned it and lubed it. And the result is zero. Can anyone advise what should I do?
There is a number on the lock under the barrels on the right, and on the left you can see the screw, it adjusts the ejector, it may be too tight, you can’t completely unscrew it, loosen it.
I also have IZH58 ma. Does not charge the left striker, how to fix it, who knows?
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From Belgosohota.by Created 8 minutes ago
By GAVIALL Created Yesterday at 07:36
From Nikolai Sh Created June 3, 2009
By Denis Created August 15, 2009
By Denis Created August 15, 2009
From Kolobok Created April 17, 2012
By Your-Optic Created Tuesday at 20:59
quote: Originally posted by Nikitos: 1) Is it fatal?
If not much, then not fatal, but not aesthetically pleasing.
quote: Originally posted by Nikitos: 2) Can it be fixed?
As an option, cut to cylinders, get a pointer or spaniel and discover new types of hunting with a gun dog (there are just cylinders and bells rule). For duck flights and a goose, take a multiple charge.
quote: Originally posted by Nikitos: 4) Where can I order new barrels so that they fit clearly? 5) Is it possible to change one barrel?
I think for Izh27 it is not economically feasible - it is much cheaper to buy another gun in good condition.
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IZH-58. Reviews. Exploitation. Repair. Grade:
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Post has been edited by max-hunter: 05 June 2013 – 21:32
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Post has been editedPsycho: 11 August 2013 – 15:44
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Psycho (August 11, 2013 – 03:43 PM) wrote:
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Post has been editedPsycho: 11 August 2013 - 18:30