DIY rusty fender repair

This material will help you learn more about how to repair a car and remove corrosion from it yourself.

We see what a simple spray paint application to an improperly prepared surface can lead to. After a while, such painting will manifest itself in all the subtleties. The type of car, in this case, will be far from bright.

Usually, corrosion begins to manifest itself at the points of contact between parts. It seems that in our case everything was covered with soil, but all the same, corrosion penetrated right through. This confirms that the surface preparation technology has not been fully followed. At the same time, you can immediately see the difference in the places where they were covered with epoxy primer, there is no rust here.

In those places where there are holes, for example, as in our case, on the arches above the wheels, there is no point in cleaning or trying to restore them. Such parts just need to be replaced. If you want to digest something, then you need to do it in a place that has suffered the least from corrosion.

It will be interesting to consider corrosion in detail. This is how the local place of its manifestation on the wing looks like. A defect arose in the center, which became the place from which this surprise began to grow for every motorist. We have opened such a place and will try to figure out what's inside. You can see a lot of sand, salt and other substances. It's amazing how through such a small hole, the defect we talked about above, so much dirt gets inside.

Let's also try to consider another defect in a higher resolution, which in our case is a scratch. You can see that sand has already started to get under the varnish and under the ground. In fact, the scratch looks small, but we saw that the very same corrosion has already begun to appear in it.

Why do we consider in such detail the causes of occurrence and the defect itself in the form of corrosion? This, in fact, is a rather interesting question, because before starting work, you need to understand what corrosion is and then we will better understand how to deal with it. The main reason for its occurrence is salt and sand, which got inside this center and which retain moisture.

We have removed a wing that will help us explain the causes of corrosion. On the wing, we see corrosion at the point of contact with another part. Often its spread is due to the usual laziness to remove and process the wing. The second option is that the wing can still be removed, treated with soil, covered with paint, like the work has been done.

But after a month or two, corrosion begins to appear again. In this case, the assumption arises that either the materials were summed up, or the work was performed poorly. But in fact, the reason is different: you can see that corrosion begins to show through from the inside.

And now you can imagine, if we looked in an enlarged view of one small bubble and saw how much dirt there was in it, then in the place where there is constant sandblasting from the wheels (you can even see how much sand was in the wing), how much dirt can accumulate there. Therefore, before starting to process the front part of the wing, it is always necessary to first of all be sure to process the source of corrosion.

Oleg, hello! Please tell me if I will do the right thing ... Three small holes have formed on my door (under the factory vibration isolation everything is completely rusty and as a result 3 holes, the car is 3 years old, Kalina2).I want to tin them, cover them with epoxy primer, then putty with a finishing putty, prime them with a regular primer and paint over everything. Tell me, will I do it all correctly in stages?

Hello. Can you please tell me how you missed the net?

The method is of course a working one, but by welding it can be done 100 times faster in labor costs.

here we are not talking about labor costs, but about reliability and the fact that not everyone has welding

Who repairs such things, those who have it)))

Epoxy would not be better?

Uncle Olezha, everything is fine, but the lack of students' workwear is striking.
A guy from Makhachkala comes straight in a weekend jacket to the garage

no guys in a robe go to and from work

Interesting and useful video, among other things, like everyone else! Can you use this method on the doors in the corners?

How to get rid of rust on the body of a car is a question that worries most of the owners of used cars. There are not many options, go to a service station, or deal with the problem yourself. Many do not know how to deal with rust on the body of a car, so they often simply cover it up with paint, but this method does not save for long, however, rust is not fatal, so we will consider ways to get rid of it.

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Of course, the most correct and cardinal solution in the fight against corrosion will be to replace the entire part as a whole, however:

• It happens that such a part cannot be obtained, or its cost exceeds reasonable limits, but you always want to save money;
• Therefore, now we will figure out how to eliminate rust on the car body with our own hands;
• There are several ways, and they are all quite laborious;
• Modern cars have galvanized bodies, at least most;
• This prevents corrosion from developing, however, with deep scratches, creases and chips, the protective zinc layer is damaged;
• How do you make sure your car body is galvanized?
• It is enough to study the passport data of your car;
• Or, very carefully scrape off the paint from an inconspicuous area of ​​the body, not forgetting to then paint it over;
• For a car, a stainless steel body is not produced, most likely the matter is in the cost of production, so the problem of rust remains relevant;
• It is necessary to observe safety measures, use goggles and rubber gloves, when doing bodywork, to avoid contact with the body of chemicals.

If the body is damaged by rust in several places, it is necessary to thoroughly wash these places with car shampoo before starting work, then:

• After the body has dried, all problem areas must be treated with a coarse sandpaper, or use a metal brush;
• It is not recommended to use a grinder, because the grinding discs remove the metal layer;
• Only discs with a plastic sole are suitable for this procedure;
• Use an abrasive wheel mounted on a drill to go through problem areas.

If the corrosion is deep, and even small holes have appeared, then they act in the following way:

• With the help of a conical brush (more rigid is recommended) put on the drill, rust is removed from the car body

Attention: The use of abrasive wheels and a grinder is not allowed - you will simply burn through the metal, after such cleaning it will rot very quickly.

• After cleaning, you can confidently assess how deeply the corrosion has penetrated. The cleaned place is blown with air from the compressor, then you need to put a searchlight or a lantern behind the part;
• If the body part is not removable, then you must try to stick a light source from behind;
• In places where holes have appeared, luminous points will be visible when the ambient light is off;

Instructions on how to stop corrosion of a car body are as follows:

• The simplest way is to seal the holes with ordinary tin solder;
• To do this, you need a hammer soldering iron, soldering acid (rosin is not suitable here), POS-61 grade solder, a building hair dryer can still be useful to warm up the repair place when the power of the soldering iron is not enough;
• Get a rust converter, you can't do without it.

Attention: Before starting work with a new soldering iron, you should irradiate the tip (its working surface).

• Before starting work, the repair place with through corrosion should be cleaned of rust residues;
• Because the solder will not stick to the rusty surface;
• The most important thing is not to be lazy when you are too lazy to mess around, then go back to the beginning, where it is recommended to purchase a new part;
• To remove the remnants of rye, you need a sharp-pointed file, or a piece of a hacksaw blade, or a knife with a sharp blade and an abrasive cloth;
• With a coarse sandpaper, (grain P60-80) they pass through the center of rust (if not brushed), this is how the surface layer is removed;
• Then you should pick out the rust from the metal, which has already eaten;
• To make the places clearly visible, you need to apply a rust converter with a brush and wait a couple of minutes;
• Rust will darken and become clearly visible on clean metal
  at this stage, sharp-pointed objects will come in handy to pick out rotten metal;
• The process is the most dreary and time consuming;
• The rust converter should be constantly applied to these places with a brush;
• In this way, you wash away the rust that you have already picked out, and you see where you should put extra effort;
• After the place is cleaned, you can start serving it;

Attention: When the diameter of the through holes exceeds 2-3 millimeters, it will no longer be possible to fill them with solder; this method is suitable when through corrosion is formed in the form of a fine mesh.

• Apply soldering acid to the surface until it dries, you need to apply tin solder with a heated soldering iron over the entire cleaned surface, where holes from corrosion already exist and may appear
• To improve the adhesion of tin solder, constantly lubricate the evaporating acid
• When the metal of the body is thick and the power of the hammer soldering iron is not enough to heat the tin, then use an industrial hair dryer or a second soldering iron

Advice: Soldering should be done in the open air or in a ventilated room (or in a room with a forced draft), since the evaporated acid is very harmful to the respiratory tract, and its smell is not pleasant.

• Repair of corrosive damage to the body does not tolerate hackwork, the price of careless work - the body will rust again and very quickly;
• After completing the work, again check with a light whether there are still through holes;
• After the repair site has been tinned, and the foci of corrosion are soldered, the treated surfaces should be cleaned of acid and converter that could remain;
• As a rule, they are washed with water or with a mixture of gasoline and alcohol;
• In order to increase the service life of a repaired body part, it is important to properly protect it from contact with the atmosphere;
• On the tinned place of this body part, apply an acidic primer using a paint sprayer, then, on top of it, an acrylic primer, only then can the surface be putty;

Important: Putty must not be put on top of the acidic primer; therefore, put acrylic primer.

• If suddenly, when sanding the putty, you have wipes to the metal - there is nothing wrong with it, just blow it out again with acidic soil and coat the exposed areas with acrylic;
• When completing the restoration of a rusty car body, you should definitely protect the back side of that repair place;
• Mandatory condition! Otherwise, all the work done will go to waste;
• There are many ways to protect against corrosion, the main thing is to block the access of moisture and air to the protected area;
• The first option is to prime the reverse side with acid and acrylic primers;
• The second option is to apply a layer of good sealant, mastic, or fill it with Movil;
• The choice of option will depend on the ease of access to the treated surface;
• If you can't crawl with a sprayer, try to apply primer with a brush, and then cover with Movil, for reliability, or a similar agent;
• Now it is clear to you how to restore a car body from rust with small holes;

When a hole has already formed in the body, putty or soldering is not enough:

• The easiest way is to make and install a patch;
• Of course, this method is suitable for holes with a diameter of no more than 5-7 centimeters, when the hole is larger, the replacement of a body element is definitely necessary, or welding work;
• How to get rid of rust on the car body if holes have already appeared?
• First, the place of damage should be thoroughly washed, then cleaned to remove rust, as described above;
• After that, a patch is cut out with a size slightly larger than the hole, made of thin metal, a tin can is suitable;

• Now you need the same hammer soldering iron, with its help you have to tin the surfaces from the outside of the hole and the edge of the finished patch;
• Soldering acid or its analog is used as a flux;
• At the end, it will be necessary to solder the patch with a continuous seam, then the patch must be upset with a hammer;
• Clean the protruding edges with coarse sandpaper;
• After that, cover the defective place with putty, prime and paint;
• Body repair after rusting can be done by welding;

• The patch is carbon dioxide welded to the body, but for this you need a welding machine (or a welder with a machine), plus the skills of a welder;
• Further processing as with the previous patch, cleaning, priming, filler, sanding the filler and painting;
• Do not forget about processing the back side.

We wish you success in your bodywork!

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Many Premasya owners and others are familiar with this problem. Like any disease, it is easier and cheaper to treat it at the initial stage, avoiding the appearance of through holes. Otherwise, a donor organ transplant in the form of a wing patch will be required. Let's assume that everything is not so bad with us and it looks something like this:

True, this is a 2005 Corolla. - European, but the essence is the same. Let's see what can be done, if there is a desire, a warm room and a compressor with a spray gun, but there is no money or it's a pity))). If anyone is not interested in the secrets of body repair, you can go straight to the end, where you will find out how you can protect the arch from corrosion.
So, we take a drill with a wire disk and clean off the swollen paint, carefully look so that there is no rust left under the paint, otherwise these places will then rise:

You can then clean especially rusty places with a grinder, but be careful - the metal is weakened and it is easy to make a hole. We clean the transition of paint to metal with a sandpaper, so that there is no sharp difference in height. The transition is processed correctly if the layers of primer and paint are consistently visible:

To speed up the process, you can first take a coarser skin - grain 80, then go to 120 and finish 240, going over the area with each subsequent abrasive a little further than the previous one. At the same time, keep in mind that the risk of a rougher 220 will not close with soil, so do not climb far to it. The rest of the surface is matted with 600 sandpaper.It is more convenient to work with water with a fine sandpaper, so that the abrasive does not get clogged, so after that it is necessary to dry the prof. a hairdryer, especially caverns from corrosion, can be heated up to 60-80g, the paint is not afraid of this. We wipe the surface with a napkin with a degreaser and putty. The main mistake of beginners when puttingtying is that they smear it with a thick layer in the hope of then cutting off the excess with a sandpaper. It will be correct to apply 3-4 layers in succession, gradually approaching the shape of the surface, it should look something like this:

On top of the ground, apply a thin layer of a developing layer of any dark paint, conveniently from a spray can. The dried soil is rubbed with 600-800 sandpaper with water, the developing layer will show if there are defects. The rest of the part is matted with water, sandpaper 1000 and then Scotchbrite. The result is a smooth matte surface:

We paste over, degrease, wipe with a sticky cloth from dust and can be painted.
A few words about paints. I do not advise you to consider cans in principle. And not only because the color does not match, such enamel does not protect the lower layers from moisture poorly. Therefore, it is better to take paint on the selection of car enamels. I will reveal one of the most secret secrets: no colorist can match a color 100%. It is believed in narrow circles that 70-80% of color matching depends on the colorist, the rest depends on the art of the painter. He will make a test paint, if necessary, paint the paint. A good painter will never paint end-to-end parts, a transition is made to the old paint, so often instead of one part, you have to paint two or even three. In this case, I had to paint the entire wing, make the transition to the door and bumper:

As a result, there will be no discoloration even under artificial lighting. Have you met, probably, cars that look normal during the day, and under a lamp in the evening, as if parts from different cars?

Corrosion of the arch begins with damage to the edge by small stones flying from the wheel. So that after the first winter the rust does not climb again, it is necessary to protect this place. We buy elastic bands to protect the lower edge of the doors for VAZ-08. Cutting off the excess:

We coat the edge of the wing with anticorrosive well on both sides and put an elastic band on it, once again we coat it from the inside of the wing so that the water does not get under the elastic band. Outside, we remove the excess with gasoline, you get this beauty:

What materials to use? I will say this, there are no frankly bad materials now, those that are more expensive allow reducing the repair time, it is more convenient to work with them, and the quality mainly depends on the efforts and skills. A typical representative of budget materials is NOVOL. Provided the technology is followed, it provides quite sufficient quality:

Here is such a repair, nothing too complicated, go for it!

Hello dear community!

As I promised yesterday, I'm going to post a post about how, in near-field conditions, to bring a rusty car to life in detail, or even in its entirety.

What do many sexually mature citizens want, in their 18-20 years? That's right, the car. Does everyone have enough money for a new one? no. So I missed it, and back in 2005 I would have bought a Nissan Bluebird '89.

The state was outwardly that is technically, in principle, normal, but some more experienced comrade said this - “if it was a horse, I would suggest to shoot it”.

There are two options - either give it to the service for a complete reduction of the body to the form of God (at that time about 60-70 tr.) Or do it yourself :)

Having collected a little money for the summer, took a vacation, received a couple more "combat" wounds, in the form of a punched hole in the rear left door and a slightly crumpled muzzle -

I went to my uncle's dacha.

Pre-purchased:

1.paint - 3 liters (1 left)

4.finishing putty 1 kg (and bought 1 more after)

5. putty with fiberglass - 1 kg.

6. solvent - 5 l. (for degreasing)

7.Notice from 120 to 1200 grit.

From an additional tool, a compressor and a semi-automatic welding were used (yes, yes, without these things there was nothing to do here, sadly)

What else do we need? And it will take us a lot of time. A lot of patience. Accuracy!

Let's start with the analysis of unnecessary and interfering elements such as optics, handles, moldings, bumpers.

The wing is light from what is changeable.

Next, you need to assess the scale of the disaster - if the car is popular, and there are a lot of spare parts for it - then, believe me, buying, even a little with jambs, but a rotten attachment, will be a good option.

And if the car is rare, you can't find spare parts and they are all in the same condition as yours, then hang on here, good mood for you (C).

Rust is like caries. It is not enough to “plaster” it from the outside. It must be withdrawn. Parts on both sides.

If the rust is through - you need to put patches.

An example of through rye on my current car -

Understand how not to cover it up with putty, how not to spray it with a transducer - you-go-zet again.

So, what is rusty but not to holes - we clean out completely.

The better you clean it, the longer it will live.

What is through is cut out. And weld in the patch. Well, or is there still such a life-like how to rivet a patch, but because welding was available - I did not use it.

Having killed most of the rusty -

I am VERY sorry for the quality of the photo, they were made on something like a Nokia with a 3.2 megapixel camera 10 years ago :)

The thresholds were welded from the VAZ 2109.

The missing pieces on the wings and doors are made of metal from broken cars.

before puttingty, try, at least by eye, to "hammer", to clean the welding mounds and other protruding parts with a grinder. Trust me, save tons of time.

Pre-matanuv putty with 120th sandpaper (while we still do not care, 120, 320, or 800). Let's get started.

Surface - degrease and free from dust.

Ideally - with such a yermont - be the first to use fiberglass ("hairy") putty.

But don't overdo it! Better to apply 2-3 coats than to sharpen the excess oily first coat all day.

It's not scary yet if you rub a little to the metal.

It dries for 30-40 minutes in the air (summer, about 20 grazhus).

Then we take 320th sandpaper and rub it. The surface should acquire a shape close to the factory one. But this is still not the finish line, small irregularities are still allowed here.

Volosyanka, I remind you, is difficult to sharpen, but it's worth it! By the way, you need to sharpen not with sandpaper on the palm, but on a block - otherwise you will make holes.

Next, satisfied with the intermediate result, we putty with finishing putty. She, having dried the same half an hour (maybe a little more - it's easy to check - scratch it with your fingernail - it should not roll, should be scratched) perfectly grinds with the same 320 sandpaper on a bar. By the way! do not forget to degrease the surface before each layer (for this there was 5 liters of solvent)

As a result, the boiled and crumpled part takes on something like this -

It took me a day and a half to find this door. The same amount - on the trunk lid.

On the fenders, hood, and so on, it took about a week in total.

Let me remind you again! Do well! None of your flaws by painting and even tembolee varnish will NOT be corrected! And under varnish, on the contrary, it will be even more noticeable.

So, sir. Having putty the whole car, our next step will be the primer.

For this we need a compressor - not necessarily an expensive one. not necessarily new and spray gun - also not necessarily expensive and new.

It is necessary to prime it, having previously covered everything non-removable with a newspaper, covering material, or something else.

In principle, work can be carried out even on the street, but so that there is a minimum of dust.

You should glue it carefully, you do it for yourself!

And it doesn't matter what - with covering material from the store for denyuzhku, or with a newspaper from the mailbox for free.

It is desirable to apply the primer in one layer. One, not a bold layer, but at the same time covering everything in one color.

Before priming - do not forget to degrease all surfaces!

Further - we leave the car at least for a day (if it is drying on the street, we do not have a spray booth? :)

Did you think that's pretty much everything? NO! Another great crap is waiting for us - the developing layer. You can, of course, just wipe the car with 800 sandpaper and paint it like that. But is that why we spent almost two weeks with putty ?! Not!

Developing layer is easy :) We take any paint in a spray can, which contrasts with the primer. In my case, it was black.

And thinly, degreasing the surface, apply. We do not need to cover the ground, the developing layer is given only to identify flaws.

We let it dry a little, take the 800th sandpaper, a block, and with some water - we begin to slowly sharpen the soil. If there are no flaws, the development is worn off. Where there is a chipping, hollow, etc. - development will remain, this is its essence.

For example - in the photo you can see where the development is overwritten and where there is no development -

Where they rubbed to the putty, and even more so to the metal, you still need to work a little :)

Squeeze the surface, putty. Where the development is left is just a shap.

Next - to prime the repeated places.

Rub again where primed, a day after priming!

And now, we come to what they were waiting for - painting!

We are preparing an impromptu "camera" from rails and film from a greenhouse :)

We drive the car there. We pour water over the floor, no matter what you have, so that dust does not rise! Ideally, blow off the machine itself first.

The less dust, the more the work will delight your eyes.

It is better to start painting in the morning. Business is not quick, but it requires maximum accuracy and care.

Body paint according to the instructions.

The photo shows the first layer. Don't make it fat! However. as well as subsequent ones. Otherwise, it will flow. After all, we need quality, not the result of painting the fence by Moscow housing offices.

Having given a couple of layers of paint, between them - about 20 minutes (but if the car is painted entirely, then there is no need to wait between the layers - the second layer can be started from where the first one started). We cover the car with obscenities, oh, i.e. varnish.

Varnish is a great "lens" - it will show ALL your flaws. Everything that you have been doing for so long, for which you have spent so much effort, can go down the drain. Therefore, I will say once again - it is necessary to putty so that it is even!

It's already under varnish. After half a day, I drove the car out into the street.

By the way, I almost forgot - what was removed (bumpers, radiator grille, handles) was painted side by side, the process with bumpers is a little different, if it's interesting - you tell me, I'll try to describe the whole process, it's a completely different story - plastic.

Here the car is already standing in the evening, dries, waiting for assembly -

Don't start assembling right away. Let the machine sit for a couple of days. Otherwise, one awkward movement - and a fresh scratch on the fresh varnish, what will you do?

Hidden cavities, especially under welding, are MANDATORY. to process.

There are a great many compositions for processing, for example, making an arch on a current car, treated with glass sealant in welding places -

Hidden cavities - every year in the spring I fill in a rast-stop (you can move it) in a balloon.

Here's how it happened.

I saw the car a year after the repair - new saffron milk caps did not come out.

Further, I don’t know. How and what happened with the new owner.

even taking into account the purchase of a used compressor and spray gun, the purchase of materials and other things, you can save a lot of money. After all, now a similar undertaking is in the service, with welding, full painting, etc. I suppose it will cost about 100 tr. With your own hands, you can keep within 30.

Thanks to everyone who has read it. I hope I wasted my time, and what I have written will help someone in the repair.

All cars are listed, well, good mood.

P.S. if the topic is interesting - I can tell you more about other bodywork and not very repairs.

Saw of course :) why not?

The author tried, he covered up the number, and on the 5th photo below it lies on the panel under the forehead)

"Selling Nissan Bluebird '89, not bit, not beautiful" 😀

Krasava! I have questions, how did you process the bottom? thresholds?

There are also answers to your questions :)

The rapids were flooded with working off (yes, yes, waste oil) and then Movil.

The bottom was surprisingly intact, so I didn't touch it.

In the next post I think to tell you more about the "bottom" of the car.

Why will I be frank about cutting the post out of my hand, because I have not preserved a photo of such a repair. For this reason, I will unsubscribe you in the comments.

We take as a basis the situation when a person wants to make a complete restoration of the appearance and structure of the car body.

Welcome to blog my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2102!

Let's talk about replacing the rear arches of the car. Rear arches on some car models are a weak point, easily corroded. There are options when you can "cure" rust without changing the arches, but, as a rule, the owners of cars pull until the last, when drastic measures are needed. The need to replace the rear arches arises, as a rule, due to their through corrosion. In such cases, all that remains is to cut off all the rusty metal and weld in its place a new, non-rusty segment. How to do this, and what subtleties you need to take into account. Let's take a look at everything in detail.

First, we need to define the boundaries of the corroded area. To do this, you need to clean off the old paintwork in a place where rust is visible. An autopsy, as they say, will show what's under the paint. It is necessary to clean it, with a margin retreating from the zone with corrosion to the zone with normal metal. An autopsy usually reveals that there is much more rust than meets the eye.

Next, we need to cut off all the corroded metal. We use the "grinder", we cut everything down to pure metal. After the rusty segment has been cut off, the reverse side of the remaining intact metal should be checked as far as possible. Why do we need this? It so happens that the front part of the part does not contain corrosion, but on the reverse side everything is much sadder. Usually you just have to enlarge the cut area a little in order to weld the repair segment to the good metal on both sides.

Cut out segment of the rear wing Arch self-made from sheet metal

Further to us you need to take a repair insert somewhere for welding and restoring the arch. Here you can choose the following options:

1. Take the desired segment from the donor's rear wing.
2. Take the required part from the new repair panel for the rear wing (if there is one on sale for the car model being repaired).
3. Cut the desired segment from sheet metal (usually from an unnecessary body panel). It all depends on what shape you need the segment. If a large part of the arch with complex shapes, edging was cut, then of course it is better to take and cut out a similar part from the donor's wing. Again, it depends on the cost of the rear wing of a particular car. Despite the complexity of the shapes, it is also possible to bend the desired segment from, for example, an unnecessary hood. If a complex shape does not work out, then you can make a segment of several simpler ones by welding them together.
4. Another option is to take the desired segment from a new or used front wing. In most car models, the front and rear fenders are similar in shape. The front wing is usually cheaper and easier to find than the rear wing. Thus, we take the desired “piece” from the front wing and adjust it to the rear one.

Welding a homemade arch New renovation arch The front fender is similar in shape to the arch of the rear fender.

How do I cut a sheet metal patch to the desired shape?

You can apply this method.Take a cardboard, lean it against the cut area and the borders of the cut area will be printed on it. Now you can cut a stamp out of cardboard along these boundaries, and use this stamp to cut out the necessary patch from metal. It is better to slightly increase the borders on the metal being cut out, since it will need to be welded with an overlap.

Welding the repair insert

The next step is to weld the repair insert. When welding, you must not overheat the metal. It is better to weld with dots, starting from one end of the patch, then weld with a dot on the other side and at intervals, then decrease the interval. The point is that the metal doesn't lead too much.

After welding, you need to clean the seam from oxides and grind the weld seam.

Weld seam protection

Next, you need to protect the seam from corrosion. One option is an epoxy anti-corrosive primer. After the soil has completely dried, you need to grind it without rubbing it to the metal, then you can apply a putty.

The back of the weld is also important to protect. For this, you can use anticorrosive primers in aerosol cans. The most important thing is to get to the back side. If there is no access, then you can use a can with a long tube and a nozzle on it. One of these variants is "Movil". Very comfortable design. You can crawl into a hidden cavity by inserting a tube into a small hole. Movil is not the best option for protecting against corrosion, but the nozzle tube can be adapted to any other protection in an aerosol can.

Then you can proceed to the final removal of the putty, priming with acrylic primer, preparation for painting and the actual painting.

Many of us would like to engage in body repair, but we do not dare for reasons: “it’s difficult”, “it is expensive”, “screw it up”, “I don’t know how to do it right”, etc. However, getting the first knowledge is very easy and not expensive at all. Let's figure out how to restore a car body part, prepare it for repainting and paint it.

Small scratches that are only on the surface of the paintwork can be removed by polishing. And if the scratches are deep (to the ground or metal), then painting of the damaged site is already necessary.

Hello everyone! My name is Mikhail, now I'll tell you a story about how I managed to exchange a dvenashka for a 2010 Camry. It all started with the fact that I was wildly annoyed by the breakdowns of the two, like nothing serious broke down, but the little things, damn it, so many things that really started to enrage. Here the idea was born that it was time to change the car to a foreign car. The choice fell on the tayet Camry of the tenths.

Painting can be of two types: partial painting of the car (local, when the part is painted with a transition) and full (the whole part is painted).

Local car painting it is necessary in those cases when it is necessary to restore only a certain part of the body. The advantage of such painting is that the body parts are not dismantled, and therefore the body factory assembly of the car is not disturbed.
Painting the entire part as a whole done only when necessary if the scratches or dents are deep and take up a large area on the car body parts.

All car enthusiasts who want to try paint the car with your own hands the first thing to think about is spray paint. And then the question arises:

Answer: Of course you can paint, but you cannot paint with high quality. Why ?

Firstly, the spray can has an uneven spray, so it becomes very difficult to paint a car with high quality. In addition, the ink jet is too strong, so it is easy to get ink smudges as a result.

Secondly, it is very rare to get into the color from a spray can, especially considering that the paint on the car fades over time. Let's say you were able to pick the color as accurately as possible, paint it, and the result suits you completely. But do not forget about the quality of such paint, as a rule, after a year the painted area fades. In addition, it poorly protects the body from weathering and can be easily washed off even with a weak solvent. And in this case, you can completely forget about normal polishing.

It is important to remember that painting a car must take place in a special room that meets a number of requirements (no dust and wind, suitable temperature and humidity). It is not allowed to paint the car on the street.
If one of the rules is not followed, the paint may turn out to be spots, there will be shagreen (the surface of the paint is not smooth, but like an orange peel), smudges, etc.

Thus, if we are talking about painting from a spray can, then there is no need to talk about aesthetics.
But if you are still set for such work, then try to apply thin layers of paint (at a greater distance from the part) and do at least 3 layers. Spray paint video can be found in this article. Spray paint is best used to partially paint the bumper, but forget about full spray painting of the car.

Now, let's analyze how to paint a car with high quality at home:

To apply a high-quality primer on the working surface, we already need a compressor (with a pressure gauge and adjustment), a spray gun (not necessarily expensive) and a respirator. We cover the whole machine with paper or foil. If the primer gets on the paint and has time to dry, then consider that it remains there forever. We degrease the surface well and apply in a couple of layers.

We remove the paper and proceed to the processing of the soil (800 sandpaper on wet). As soon as the ground is perfectly smooth and even with the body to the touch, the preparation process for painting can be considered complete.

Remember that a correctly and carefully prepared part is the key to a good car painting!

High quality paint the car is possible only if it works choose the right color... The paint should match perfectly with the previous coating. It is best to contact a professional colorist who will not only correctly select the color, but also provide you with high-quality paint.

Before painting, you need to decide exactly which part of the body we will cover with varnish. We glue the rest. It is imperative to remove all gloss from the wing (mat). This is done with 800-1000 sandpaper on a wet or special scotch-bright sponge (reminiscent of a rough sponge for washing dishes). We degrease and, if desired, wipe with a sticky napkin to remove small specks.
Painting a car at home involves working in a dusty garage. Therefore, it is recommended to nail down the dust with a water spray before painting.

Car painting technology always involves the application of several layers of paint. When using light-colored paints, it may be necessary to apply a preliminary coat of paint to paint over the primer.
So, first coat of paint spreads out onto the ground, overlapping it and the wing itself a little.
Second layer apply in a minute and in another minute third, basic. Air pressure during painting should be about 4 atm. Lack or excess of pressure during painting will not lead to anything good.
After the third layer we get a matte painted wing:

At room temperature, the paint dries for about 15 minutes. If, after drying, irregularities come out (as after a primer), then the part was poorly prepared for painting. You cannot touch the painted surface with your hands, otherwise you will have to degrease again, and the solvent will simply wipe off the paint.

Further detail you need varnish... It is recommended to once again gently walk with a sticky napkin, because the varnish is very sensitive even to tiny grains of sand. It is better to dilute the varnish even before applying the paint, since it needs to be infused for at least 20-30 minutes for air bubbles to come out.
You can varnish at will, either while the paint is not completely dry, or wait for final drying.

First coat of varnish (base) should be very thin and applied to the entire surface of the part.
Second coat of varnish (main) we apply after 2 minutes exposure, also evenly over the entire working surface. It is not worth pouring a lot of varnish, otherwise it will flow.

If dust got under the varnish, then polishing will help to correct the situation, but only after a week, when the varnish is completely dry!

Car painting cost, and in particular the wing that was discussed in the photo report, is:

1. Emery - 100 rubles;
2. Solvent 646 - 120 rubles;
3. Putty - 50 rubles;
4. Primer - 70 rubles;
5. Paint - 300 rubles;
6. Varnish - 200 rubles;

Total 900 rubles.

The main problem with silver shades is the so-called apple-like effect, where the paint is blotting. This happens if the paint is applied unevenly and when one layer of paint is overlapped with another, the shade changes and, as a result, either stripes or spots of a different shade appear. To prevent this from happening, when applying the last layer of paint, the painter increases the air supply in the spray gun and applies the last layer of paint by spray method, observing that the paint layer is sprayed onto the surface evenly.

After the paint dries, the ground begins to show through or the applied layers of paint (base) look like a zebra, for example, the silver color in places looks like black. The reason is an insufficiently painted surface.

If the painted part becomes dull after drying, then the reason is high humidity.

Varnish smudges can be caused by too thin varnish, too much varnish or insufficient intermediate drying between varnish coats.

How many illustrations do not publish, and the video material has always been more visual and understandable.

Video of painting a car in a garage:

Video painting a car by a professional:

Of course, it is impossible to paint a car locally without having the initial skills and experience. But you can always practice on an old bumper or paint a VAZ car, which is no longer afraid of painter's mistakes.
Do not be afraid and do not panic, believe in yourself, because this is just a piece of iron! By the way, there are other ways to deal with rust.

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