Do-it-yourself rusty car wing repair

This material will help you learn more about how to repair a car and remove corrosion from it yourself.

We see what a simple application of spray paint on an improperly prepared surface can lead to. After a while, such painting will manifest itself in all its subtleties. The appearance of the car, in this case, will be far from bright.

Usually corrosion begins to appear at the points of contact between parts. It seems that in our case everything was covered with soil, but all the same, corrosion penetrated through. This confirms that the surface preparation technology has not been fully followed. At the same time, you can immediately see the difference in those places where they were covered with epoxy primer, there is no rust here.

In places where there are holes, for example, as in our case, on the arches above the wheels, there is no point in cleaning or trying to restore them. Those parts just need to be replaced. If you want to digest something, then you need to do it in a place that is least affected by corrosion.

It will be interesting to consider corrosion in detail. This is how the local place of its manifestation on the wing looks like. A defect arose in the center, which became the place from which this surprise began to grow for every motorist. We opened such a place and try to figure out what's inside. You can see a lot of sand, salt and other substances. It is amazing how through such a small hole, the defect that we talked about above, so much dirt gets inside.

We will also try to consider another defect in a higher resolution, which in our case was a scratch. You can see that sand has already begun to get under the varnish coating and under the ground. In fact, the scratch looks small, but we saw that the same corrosion had already begun to appear in it.

Why do we consider in such detail the causes of occurrence and the defect itself in the form of corrosion? This is, in fact, quite an interesting question, because before starting work, we need to understand what corrosion is and then we will better understand how to deal with it. The main reason for its occurrence is salt and sand, which got inside this hearth and which retain moisture.

We removed a wing that will help us explain the causes of corrosion. On the wing, we see, at the point of contact with another part, a manifestation of corrosion. Often its spread is explained by the usual laziness to remove and process the wing. The second option - the wing can still be removed, treated with primer, covered with paint, it seems that the work has been done.

But after a month or two, corrosion begins to appear again. In this case, there is an assumption that either the materials failed, or the work was not done well. But in fact, the reason is different: you can see that corrosion begins to show outward from the inside.

And now you can imagine, if we looked at one small bubble in an enlarged view and saw how much dirt it contained, then in the place where there is constant sandblasting from the wheels (you can even see how much sand was in the wing), how much dirt can accumulate there. Therefore, before starting to process the front part of the wing, it is always necessary to treat the source of corrosion first of all.

Oleg, hello! Please tell me if I will do it right ... Three small holes formed on my door (under the factory vibration isolation everything completely rusted and as a result 3 holes, the car is 3 years old, Kalina2).I want to tin them, cover them with epoxy primer, then putty them with finishing putty, prime them with a regular primer and paint everything over. Tell me, will I do all this step by step?

Hello. Please tell me what you missed the mesh?

Of course, the method is working, but by welding it is 100 times faster in terms of labor costs.

here we are not talking about labor costs, but about reliability and the fact that not everyone has welding

Who repairs such things, those who have it)))

Epoxy would be better?

Uncle Olezh everything is fine, but the lack of overalls for students is striking.
The Makhachkala guy comes straight to the garage in a weekend jacket

no guys in robes go to and from work

Interesting and useful video, in other matters, like all the others! Is it possible to apply this method on the doors in the corners?

How to get rid of rust on a car body is a question that worries most owners of used cars. There are not many options, go to a service station, or deal with the problem yourself. Many do not know how to deal with rust on a car body, so they often simply cover it with paint, but this method does not save for long, but rust is not fatal, so consider ways to get rid of it.

ATTENTION! Found a completely simple way to reduce fuel consumption! Don't believe? An auto mechanic with 15 years of experience also did not believe until he tried it. And now he saves 35,000 rubles a year on gasoline! Read more"

Of course, the most correct and cardinal solution in the fight against corrosion would be to replace the entire part as a whole, however:

• It happens that such a part cannot be obtained, or its cost exceeds reasonable limits, but you always want to save money;
• Therefore, now we will figure out how to eliminate rust on a car body with our own hands;
• There are several ways, and all of them are quite laborious;
• Modern cars have galvanized bodies, at least most;
• This prevents corrosion from developing, however, with deep scratches, creases and chips, the protective zinc layer is damaged;
• How do you make sure your car body is galvanized?
• It is enough to study the passport data of your car;
• Or very carefully scrape off the paint from an inconspicuous area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe body, not forgetting to paint it over afterwards;
• For a car, a stainless steel body is not produced, most likely the matter is in the cost of production, so the problem of rust remains relevant;
• It is necessary to observe safety measures, use goggles and rubber gloves, when performing body work, to avoid contact with the body of chemicals.

If the body is affected by rust in several places, it is necessary to thoroughly wash these places with car shampoo before starting work, then:

• After the case has dried, all problem areas must be treated with coarse-grained sandpaper, or use a metal brush;
• It is not recommended to use a grinder, because the cleaning discs remove a layer of metal;
• Only plastic-soled discs are suitable for this procedure;
• With an abrasive wheel mounted on a drill, go through problem areas.

If the corrosion is deep, and even small holes have appeared, then they act in the following way:

• With the help of a cone brush (more rigid is recommended) put on a drill, rust is removed from the car body

Attention: The use of abrasive wheels and a grinder is not allowed - you will simply burn the metal, after such a cleaning it will rot very quickly.

• After stripping, you can confidently assess how deeply corrosion has penetrated. The cleaned place is blown with air from the compressor, then you need to put a spotlight or lantern behind the part;
• If the body part is non-removable, then you should try to stick a light source in the back;
• In places where holes appeared, luminous dots will be visible when the external lighting is turned off;

Instructions on how to stop the corrosion of the car body are as follows:

• The easiest way is to solder holes with ordinary tin solder;
• To do this, you need a hammer soldering iron, soldering acid (rosin is not suitable here), POS-61 solder, a building hair dryer can also be useful to warm up the repair place when the soldering iron is not enough power;
• Get a rust converter, you can't do without it.

Attention: Before starting work with a new soldering iron, you should irrigate the tip (its working surface).

• Before starting work, the repair site with through corrosion should be cleaned of rust residues;
• Because solder will not stick to a rusty surface;
• The most important thing is not to be lazy when you are too lazy to mess around, then go back to the beginning, where it is recommended to purchase a new part;
• To remove the remnants of rye, you will need a pointed file, or a piece of a hacksaw blade, or a knife with a sharp blade and abrasive skin;
• Coarse sandpaper, (grain P60-80) goes through the center of rust (if not brushed), so the surface layer is removed;
• Then you should pick out rust from the metal, which has already eaten;
• To make the places clearly visible, you need to apply a rust converter with a brush and wait a couple of minutes;
• The rust will darken and become clearly visible on bare metal.
  at this stage, pointed objects will come in handy to pick out rotten metal;
• The process is the most dreary and time-consuming;
• You should constantly apply a rust converter to these places with a brush;
• In this way, you wash off the rust that you have already picked out and see where you need to make extra effort;
• After the place is cleaned, you can begin to service it;

Attention: When the diameter of through holes exceeds 2-3 millimeters, it will no longer be possible to fill them with solder, this method is suitable when through corrosion forms in the form of a fine mesh.

• Apply soldering acid to the surface before it dries, you need to apply tin solder with a heated soldering iron over the entire cleaned surface, where corrosion holes already exist and may occur
• To better stick tin solder, constantly grease the evaporating acid
• When the body metal is thick and the power of the hammer soldering iron is not enough to heat the tin, then use an industrial hair dryer or a second soldering iron

Tip: Soldering should be done in the open air or in a ventilated room (or in a room with forced exhaust), since the evaporated acid is very harmful to the respiratory tract, and its smell is not pleasant.

• Repair of corrosive damage to the body does not tolerate hack work, the price of careless work is that the body will rust again and very quickly;
• After completing the work, check again with the light if there are still through holes;
• After the repair place is tinned and the corrosion centers are soldered, the treated surfaces should be cleaned of acid and the converter that could remain;
• As a rule, they are washed with water, or with a mixture of gasoline and alcohol;
• In order to increase the service life of the repaired body part, it is important to properly protect it from contact with the atmosphere;
• On the tinned place of this body part, using a paint sprayer, apply acid primer, then, on top of it, acrylic primer, only after that you can putty the surface;

Important: Putty cannot be put on top of acid soil, therefore acrylic primer is placed.

• If suddenly, when sanding the putty, you have rubbing to the metal - there is nothing to worry about, just blow it with acid soil again and cover the exposed places with acrylic;
• When completing the restoration of a rusty car body, you should definitely protect the reverse side of that repair site;
• Condition required! Otherwise, all the work done will go down the drain;
• There are many ways to protect against corrosion, the main thing is to block the access of moisture and air to the protected area;
• The first option is to prime the reverse side with acid and acrylic primers;
• The second option is to apply a layer of good sealant, mastic or fill with Movil;
• The choice of option will depend on the ease of access to the treated surface;
• If you can’t crawl with a sprayer, try applying primer with a brush, then cover with Movil, for reliability, or a similar agent;
• Now it is clear to you how to restore the car body from rust with small holes;

When a hole has already formed in the body, putty or soldering is indispensable here:

• The easiest way here is to make and install a patch;
• Of course, this method is suitable for holes with a diameter of no more than 5-7 centimeters, when the hole is larger, it is definitely necessary to replace the body element, or welding;
• How to get rid of rust on a car body if holes have already appeared ?;
• First, the damage site should be thoroughly washed, then cleaned, cleaned of rust, as described above;
• After that, a patch is cut out a little larger than a hole, from thin metal, a tin can is suitable;

• Now you need the same hammer soldering iron, with its help you have to tin the surfaces on the outside of the hole and the edge of the finished patch with tin;
• As a flux, soldering acid, or its analogue, is used;
• At the end, it will be necessary to solder the patch with a continuous seam, then the patch must be upset with a hammer;
• Clean the protruding edges with coarse-grained sandpaper;
• After that, cover the defective place with putty, primer and paint;
• Body repair after rust can be done by welding;

• The patch is carbon dioxide welded to the body, however, for this you will need a welding machine (or a welder with a machine), plus the skills of a welder;
• Further processing as with the previous patch, cleaning the primer, putty, sanding the putty and painting;
• Don't forget about the processing of the reverse side.

We wish you success in body work!

Forget about fines from cameras! Absolutely legal novelty - NANOFILM, which hides your numbers from IR cameras (which are installed in all cities). More about this at the link.

• Absolutely legal (Article 12.2.4).
• Hides from photo-video recording.
• It installs itself in 2 minutes.
• Not visible to the human eye, does not deteriorate due to the weather.
• Warranty 2 years

Many Premasey owners and not only are familiar with this problem. Like any disease, it is easier and cheaper to treat it in the initial stage, preventing the appearance of through holes. Otherwise, a transplant of a donor organ in the form of a repair lining of the wing will be required. Let's assume that everything is not so bad with us and looks something like this:

True, this is a 2005 Corolla. - European, but the essence is the same. Let's see what can be done, if there is a desire, a warm room and a compressor with a spray gun, but there is no money or it's a pity))). If anyone is not interested in the secrets of body repair, you can immediately go to the end, where you will learn how to protect the arch from corrosion.
So, we take a drill with a wire disc and clean off the swollen paint, we carefully look so that there is no rust left under the paint, otherwise these places will rise later:

You can then clean especially rusty places with a grinder, but be careful - the metal is weakened and it is easy to make a hole. We clean the transition of paint to metal with a sandpaper so that there is no sharp difference in height. The transition is processed correctly if successive layers of primer and paint are visible:

The skin for rooting the process can first be taken coarser - grain 80, then go to 120 and finish 240, going over the area with each subsequent abrasive a little further than the previous one. At the same time, keep in mind that the risk is coarser than 220 with soil, so do not climb far. The rest of the surface is matted with sandpaper 600.It is more convenient to work with water with a fine sandpaper, so that the abrasive does not clog, so after that it is necessary to dry the prof well. with a hairdryer, especially corrosion cavities, you can heat up to 60-80g., The paint is not afraid of this. We wipe the surface with a napkin with a degreaser and putty. The main mistake of beginners when puttying is that they smear with a thick layer in the hope of then cutting off the excess with sandpaper. It will be correct to apply successively 3-4 layers, gradually approaching the shape of the surface, it should turn out something like this:

On top of the ground with a thin layer, apply a developing layer of any dark paint, conveniently from a can. We rub the dried soil with sandpaper 600-800 with water, the developing layer will show if there are defects. The rest of the part is matted with water with sandpaper 1000 and then with scotchbright. The result is a smooth matte surface:

Paste, degrease, wipe with a sticky cloth from dust and can be painted.
A few words about colors. I do not advise you to consider spray cans in principle. And not only because the color does not match, such enamel does not protect the lower layers from moisture well. Therefore, it is better to take paint on the selection of car enamels. I will reveal one of the most secret secrets: no colorist will match the color 100%. As it is considered in narrow circles, hitting the color by 70-80% depends on the colorist, the rest - on the art of the painter. He will make a test paint, if necessary, the paint is tinted. A good painter will never paint parts end-to-end, a transition is made to the old paint, so often instead of one part you have to paint two, or even three. In this case, I had to paint the entire fender, make the transition to the door and bumper:

As a result, there will be no difference in tone even under artificial lighting. Have you met, probably, cars that look normal during the day, and in the evening under a lamp, as if the parts are from different cars?

Arch corrosion begins with damage to the edge by small pebbles flying from the wheel. So that after the first winter the rust does not climb again, this place must be protected. We buy rubber bands to protect the lower edge of the doors for the VAZ-08. Trimming off the excess:

We well coat the edge of the wing with anticorrosive on both sides and put an elastic band on it, once again we coat it from the inside of the wing so that water does not get under the elastic band. Outside, we remove the excess with gasoline, we get this beauty:

What materials to use? I will say this, there are no frankly bad materials now, those that are more expensive allow you to reduce repair time, it is more convenient to work with them, and the quality mainly depends on diligence and skill. A typical representative of budget materials is NOVOL. Subject to technology, it provides quite sufficient quality:

Here is such a repair, nothing particularly complicated, go for it!

Hello dear community!

As I promised yesterday, I am writing a post about how to bring a rusty car to life in detail, or even in its entirety, in near-field conditions.

What do many sexually mature citizens want in their 18-20 years? That's right, a car. Does everyone have enough money for a new one? no. So I didn’t have enough, and back in 2005, I would have bought a Nissan Bluebird car in 89.

The condition was that outwardly that technically, in principle, normal, but one more experienced comrade said this: “if it was a horse, I would offer to shoot it.”

There are two options - either give it to the service to completely bring the body into a divine form (at that time about 60-70 tr) or do it yourself :)

Having collected a little money by the summer, taking a vacation, having received a couple more “combat” wounds, in the form of a punched hole in the rear left door and a slightly dented muzzle -

I went to the cottage to my uncle.

Previously purchased:

1. paint - 3 liters (1 left)

4. finishing putty 1 kg (and 1 more after)

5. putty with fiberglass - 1 kg.

6. solvent - 5 l. (for degreasing)

7. sandpaper from 120 to 1200 grit.

From the additional tool, a compressor and semi-automatic welding were used (yes, yes, without these things there was nothing to do here, unfortunately)

What else do we need? And we need a lot of time. A lot of patience. Accuracy!

Let's start with the analysis of unnecessary and interfering elements, such as optics, handles, moldings, bumpers.

The wing is light from what is changed.

Next, you need to assess the scale of the disaster - if the car is popular, and there are a lot of spare parts for it - then, believe me, buying a little bit with jambs, but a non-rotten attachment will be a good option.

And if the car is rare, you can’t find spare parts and they are all in the same condition as yours, then stay here, good mood to you (C).

Rust is like caries. It is not enough to “plaster” it from the outside. She needs to be taken out. Detail on both sides.

If the rust is through, you need to put patches.

An example of through rye on my current car -

Understand how not to cover it with putty, how not to spray it with a converter - you-le-zet again.

So, what is rusty but not to the holes - we clean it completely.

The better you clean it, the longer it will last.

What is through - cut out. And weld a patch. Well, or is there still such a life-hack, how to rivet a patch, but because welding was available - I did not use it.

Having killed most of the rusty -

I VERY apologize for the quality of the photos, they were taken on something like Nokia with a 3.2 megapixel camera 10 years ago :)

Thresholds were welded from the VAZ 2109.

The missing pieces on the wings and doors are from metal from broken cars.

before puttying, try, at least by eye, to “hammer”, clean the bumps from welding and other protruding parts with a grinder. Trust me, you'll save a lot of time.

Having previously matanuv putty with the 120th sandpaper (for now, we still don’t care, 120, 320, or 800). Let's get started.

Surface - degrease and clean from dust.

Ideally - with such a repair - first use fiberglass (“hairy”) putty.

But don't overdo it! It is better to apply 2-3 layers than to sharpen the excess greasy first layer all day.

It's not scary yet if you grind a little to the metal.

This thing dries for 30-40 minutes in the air (summer, about 20 degrees).

Then we take the 320th sandpaper, overwrite. The surface should take shape close to the factory. But this is not the finish yet, there are still minor irregularities.

Volosyanka, I remind you, it is difficult to sharpen, but it's worth it! By the way, it is necessary to sharpen not with sandpaper in the palm of your hand, but on a bar - otherwise you will make holes.

Next, satisfied with the intermediate result, we putty the finishing putty. After drying for the same half an hour (maybe a little more - it's easy to check - scratch it with your fingernail - it shouldn't roll, it should be scratched) it grinds off perfectly with the same 320th sandpaper on a bar. By the way! do not forget to degrease the surface before each layer (for this there were 5 liters of solvent)

As a result, the boiled and rumpled part takes on something like this -

This door took me a day and a half. The same amount - on the trunk lid.

On the fenders, hood, and more took a total of about a week.

Let me remind you again! Do well! None of your flaws with painting and even more so with varnish will NOT be corrected! And under the varnish, on the contrary, it will be even more noticeable.

Yes, sir. Having puttied the whole car, our next step will be a primer.

To do this, we need a compressor - not necessarily an expensive one. not necessarily new and spray gun - also not necessarily expensive and new.

It is necessary to prime, having previously covered everything that is not removable with a newspaper, covering material, or something else.

In principle, work can be carried out even on the street, but in such a way that there is a minimum of dust.

You should stick it carefully, you are doing it for yourself!

And it doesn't matter what - covering material from the store for money, or a newspaper from the mailbox for free.

It is advisable to apply the primer in one layer. One, not greasy layer, but at the same time covering everything in one color.

Before priming - do not forget to degrease all surfaces!

Next - we leave the car for at least a day (if it dries on the street, we don’t have a spray booth, do we? :)

Did you think that's almost all? NO! We are waiting for another great crap - developing layer. You can, of course, just wipe the car with the 800th sandpaper, and paint like that. But is that why we spent almost two weeks with putty?! Not!

The developing layer is easy :) We take any paint in a can that contrasts with the primer. In my case it was black.

And thinly, degreasing the surface, apply. We do not need to block the ground, the developing layer is given only to identify flaws.

We let it dry a little, take the 800th sandpaper, a bar, and with some water - we begin to slowly grind the ground. If there are no flaws, the development will grind off. Where there is a gap, depression, etc. - the development will remain, this is its essence.

For example - the photo shows where the development is overwritten and where there is no development -

Where they have rubbed down to putty, and even more so to metal - you still need to work a little :)

Push the surface, putty. Where the development is left - just podshplevat.

Next - prime the repeated places.

Again wipe where primed, a day after the primer!

And now, we come to what we have been waiting for - painting!

We are preparing an impromptu “camera” from slats and a film from a greenhouse :)

We drive the car there. Paul, no matter what you have, pour water over it so that dust does not rise! Ideally, blow out the car itself first.

The less dust, the more the work will please your eye.

It is better to start painting in the morning. It is not a quick task, but it requires maximum accuracy and care.

Body paint according to the instructions.

Pictured is the first layer. Don't make him fat! However. like the next ones. Otherwise, it will leak. After all, we need quality, and not the result of painting the fence by Moscow ZhEKs.

After giving a couple of layers of paint, between them - 20 minutes (but if the car is painted entirely, then there is no need to wait between the layers - the second layer can be started from where the first one started). We cover the car with a foul language, oh, i.e. varnish.

Varnish is a great "lens" - it will show ALL your flaws. All that you have been doing for so long, for which you have spent so much energy, can go down the drain. Therefore, I will say it again - it is necessary to putty so that it is even!

It's already varnished. After half a day drove the car on the street.

By the way, I almost forgot - what was removed (bumpers, grille, handles) was painted side by side, the process with bumpers is a little different, if you're interested - you tell me, I'll try to describe the whole process, this is a completely different story - plastic.

Here the car is already standing in the evening, drying, waiting for assembly -

Don't start assembling right away. Let the car stand for a couple of days. Otherwise, one awkward movement - and a fresh scratch on a fresh varnish, what will you do?

Hidden cavities, especially under welding, are a MUST. process.

There are a great many compositions for processing, for example, when making an arch on a current car, I treated it with glass sealant at the welding points -

Hidden cavities - every year in the spring I fill it with a rast-stop (maybe Movil) in a cylinder.

Here's how it happened.

I saw the car a year after the repair - no new mushrooms came out.

Further, I don’t know. How and what happened to the new owner.

even when taking into account the purchase of a used compressor and spray gun, the purchase of materials and other things, you can save a lot of money in this way. After all, now a similar idea is in the service, with welding, full painting, etc. I guess it will cost about 100 tr. With your own hands, you can meet 30.

To all who have read it, thank you. I hope I did not waste my time, and someone written will help in the repair.

Everyone is listed as whole cars, well, good mood.

P.S. if the topic is interesting, I can tell you more about other bodywork and not so repairs.

Saw of course :) why not?

The author tried, he covered the number, and in the 5th photo below it lies on the panel under the windshield)

“For sale Nissan Bluebird 89, not beaten, not beautiful” 😀

Beautiful! I have questions, how did you process the bottom? thresholds?

There are answers to your questions :)

Thresholds were filled with mining (yes, yes, used oil) and then Movil.

The bottom was surprisingly intact, so I did not touch it.

In the next post I think to tell you more about the "bottom" of the car.

Well, I’ll be frank to cut the post out of my hands, because I didn’t have a photo of such a repair. For this reason, I will unsubscribe to you in the comments.

We take as a basis the situation when a person wants to make a complete restoration of the appearance and structure of the car body.

Welcome to the my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2102 blog!

Let's talk about replacing the rear arches of the car. The rear arches of some car models are a weak point that is easily corroded. There are options when you can “cure” rust without changing the arches, but, as a rule, car owners pull to the last when drastic measures are needed. The need to replace the rear arches arises, as a rule, due to their through corrosion. In such cases, it remains only to cut off all the rusty metal and weld a new, non-rusty segment in its place. How to do this, and what subtleties should be taken into account. Let's look at everything in detail.

First we need to define the boundaries of the corroded area. To do this, you need to clean off the old paintwork in the place where rust is visible. An autopsy, as they say, will show what is under the paint. Cleaning is necessary, with a margin retreating from the zone with corrosion to the zone with normal metal. Usually, an autopsy shows that there is much more rust than it seemed at first glance.

Next, we need to cut off all the corroded metal. We use the "grinder", cut everything to bare metal. After the rusty segment has been cut off, it is necessary to check the reverse side of the remaining whole metal as much as possible. Why do we need it? It happens that the front part of the part does not contain corrosion, but on the reverse side everything is much sadder. Usually, you just have to slightly increase the cut-off area in order to weld the repair segment to good metal on both sides.

Cut-out hind wing segment Arch made from sheet metal

Next to us you need to take a repair insert somewhere for welding and restoring the arch. Here you can choose from the following options:

1. Take the desired segment from the rear wing of the donor.
2. Take the desired part from the new repair panel for the rear fender (if there is one on sale for the car model being repaired).
3. Cut the desired segment from sheet metal (usually from an unnecessary body panel). It all depends on what shape you need the segment. If a large part of the arch with complex shapes, edges, was cut off, then of course it is better to take and cut out a similar part from the donor wing. Again, it depends on the cost of the rear wing of a particular car. Despite the complexity of the forms, it is also possible to bend the desired segment from, for example, an unnecessary hood. If a complex shape does not work out, then you can make a segment of several simpler ones by welding them together.
4. There is another option - to take the desired segment from a new or used front fender. In most car models, the front and rear fenders are similar in shape. A front fender is usually cheaper and easier to find than a rear fender. Thus, we take the desired “piece” from the front wing and fit it to the rear.

Welding a homemade arch New repair arch The front fender is similar in shape to the rear fender arch.

How to cut a patch of the desired shape from sheet metal?

You can apply this method. Take cardboard, lean against the cut out area and the borders of the cut area will be printed on it. Now, along these borders, you can cut a stamp out of cardboard, and cut out the desired patch from metal using this stamp. It is better to slightly increase the borders on the cut metal, since it will need to be welded with an overlap.

Repair insert welding

The next step is to weld the repair insert. When welding, do not overheat the metal. It is better to weld with dots, starting from one end of the patch, then weld with a dot on the other side and through the interval, then reduce the interval. The point is that the metal does not lead much.

After welding, it is necessary to clean the seam from oxides and grind the welding seam.

Weld protection

Next, you need to protect the seam from corrosion. One option is an epoxy anti-corrosion primer. After the primer has completely dried, it is necessary to grind it without rubbing to the metal, then putty can be applied.

The reverse side of the weld is also important to protect. To do this, you can use anti-corrosion primers in aerosol cans. The most important thing is to get to the back side. If there is no access, then you can use a can with a long tube and a nozzle on it. One such option is Movil. Very comfortable design. You can crawl into the hidden cavity by inserting a tube into a small hole. "Movil" is not the best option for protection against corrosion, but the tube with the nozzle can be adapted to any other means of protection in an aerosol can.

Then you can proceed to the final removal of putty, priming with acrylic primer, preparation for painting and actually painting.

Many of us would like to get into body repair, but we hesitate for reasons: “it's difficult”, “it's expensive”, “I'll screw up”, “I don't know how to do it right”, etc. However, getting the first knowledge is very easy and not at all expensive. We will figure out how to restore a car body part, prepare it for repainting and paint it.

Small scratches that are only on the surface of the paintwork can be removed by polishing. And if the scratches are deep (to the ground or metal), then painting the damage site is already necessary.

Hello everyone! My name is Mikhail, now I'll tell you a story about how I managed to exchange my dvenashka for a 2010 Camry. It all started with the fact that the breakdowns of the dvenashka began to annoy me wildly, it seemed that nothing serious was broken, but on trifles, damn it, there were so many things that really started to piss me off. Here the idea was born that it was time to change the car to a foreign car. The choice fell on Tayotu Camry tenth years.

Painting can be of two types: partial car painting (local, when the part is painted with a transition) and full (the whole part is painted).

Local car painting necessary in cases where you need to restore only a certain area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe body. The advantage of such painting is that the body parts are not dismantled, and therefore the body factory assembly of the car is not disturbed.
Painting the whole part performed only if necessary, if the scratches or dents are deep and occupy a large area on the car body part.

All car enthusiasts who want to try paint the car with your own hands the first thing they think about is paint in cans. And then the question arises:

Answer: Of course, you can paint, but you can’t paint with high quality. Why ?

Firstly, the spray can has uneven spray, so it becomes very difficult to paint the car with high quality. In addition, the paint jet is too saturated, so it is easy to get paint smudges as a result.

Secondly, getting into a color from a spray can is very rare, especially considering that the paint on the car fades over time. Suppose you were able to choose the color as accurately as possible, painted it, and the result completely suits you. But do not forget about the quality of such paint, as a rule, after a year the painted area fades. In addition, it poorly protects the body from atmospheric influences and is easily washed off even with a weak solvent. And in this case, you can forget about normal polishing altogether.

It is important to remember that car painting must take place in a special room that meets a number of requirements (no dust and wind, suitable temperature and humidity). It is not allowed to paint the car on the street.
If one of the rules is not followed, the paint may turn out to be stained, there will be shagreen (the surface of the paint is not smooth, but like an orange peel), smudges, etc.

Thus, if we are talking about spray painting, then there is no need to talk about aesthetics.
But if you are still set on such work, then try to apply thin layers of paint (at a greater distance from the part) and make at least 3 layers. Video on painting a car with a spray can can be found in this article. Spray paint is best used to partially paint the bumper, but it is better to forget about the full painting of the car from a spray can.

Now let's figure it out how to paint a car at home:

To good quality primer on the working surface, we already need a compressor (with a pressure gauge and adjustment), an airbrush (not necessarily expensive) and a respirator. We cover the entire machine with paper or film. If the primer gets on the paint and has time to dry, then consider that it has remained there forever. Well degrease the surface and apply in a couple of layers.

We remove the paper and proceed to the processing of the soil (800 sandpaper on wet). As soon as the primer to the touch has become perfectly smooth and even with the body, the process of preparing for painting can be considered complete.

Remember that a properly and carefully prepared part is the key to a good car painting!

Quality car paint possible only if choose the right color. The paint should perfectly match the previous coating. It is best to turn to a professional colorist who will not only correctly select the color, but also provide you with high-quality paint.

Before painting, it is necessary to determine exactly which part of the body we will cover with varnish. We glue the rest. Be sure to remove all the gloss from the wing (matt). This is done with 800-1000 sandpaper on a wet or special scotch-brite sponge (reminiscent of a rough sponge for washing dishes). Degrease and, if desired, wipe with a sticky cloth to remove small specks.
Painting a car at home involves working in a dusty garage. Therefore, before painting, it is recommended to nail the dust with a water spray.

car painting technology always involves the application of several layers of paint. When using light paints, it may be necessary to apply a preliminary coat of paint to paint over the ground.
So, first coat of paint spreads on the ground, overlapping it and a little the wing itself.
Second layer apply in a minute and a minute later third, basic. The air pressure during painting should be about 4 atm. Lack or excess of pressure when painting will not lead to anything good.
After the third layer, we get a matte painted wing:

At room temperature, the paint dries in about 15 minutes. If, after drying, bumps come out (as after a primer), then the part was poorly prepared for painting. It is impossible to touch the painted surface with your hands, otherwise you will have to degrease again, and the solvent will simply erase the paint.

Next detail needed varnish. It is recommended to carefully walk again with a sticky napkin, because the varnish is very sensitive even to tiny grains of sand. It is better to dilute the varnish even before applying the paint, since it needs to be infused for at least 20-30 minutes for air bubbles to come out.
It is possible to cover with varnish at will, either while the paint is still not completely dry, or wait for the final drying.

First coat of varnish (base) must be very thin and applied to the entire surface of the part.
Second coat of varnish (basic) apply after holding for 2 minutes, also evenly over the entire working surface. It is not worth pouring a lot of varnish, otherwise it will flow.

If dust got under the lacquer, then polishing will help correct the situation, but only after a week, when the varnish is completely dry!

car painting cost, and in particular the wing, which was discussed in the photo report, is:

1. Emery - 100 rubles;
2. Solvent 646 - 120 rubles;
3. Putty - 50 rubles;
4. Primer - 70 rubles;
5. Paint - 300 rubles;
6. Varnish - 200 rubles;

Total 900 rubles.

The main problem with silvery shades is the so-called apple effect, when the paint is stained. This happens if the paint is applied unevenly and when one layer of paint is covered by another, the shade changes and, as a result, either stripes or spots of a different shade appear. To prevent this from happening, when applying the last coat of paint, the painter increases the air supply in the spray gun and applies the last coat of paint by spraying, making sure that the paint layer is sprayed onto the surface evenly.

After the paint dries, the ground begins to show through or the applied layers of paint (bases) look like a zebra, for example, the silver color seems to be black in places. The reason is insufficiently painted surface.

If the painted part becomes dull after drying, then the reason is high humidity.

Lacquer streaks can occur due to too thin varnish, too much varnish or insufficient intermediate drying between varnish coats.

How many illustrations do not publish, and the video material has always been more visual and understandable.

Video of painting a car in a garage:

Video painting a car by a professional:

Of course, it is impossible to paint a car locally without basic skills and experience. But you can always practice on an old bumper or paint a VAZ car that is no longer afraid of the painter's mistakes.
Do not be afraid and do not panic, believe in yourself, because this is just a piece of iron! By the way, there are other ways to deal with rust.

In order to get rid of constant fines from cameras, many of our readers have successfully used Special Nano Film for numbers. Legal and 100% reliable way to protect against fines. After reviewing and carefully studying this method, we decided to offer it to you.

In order to get rid of constant fines from cameras, many of our readers have successfully used Special Nano Film for numbers. Legal and 100% reliable way to protect against fines. After reviewing and carefully studying this method, we decided to offer it to you.