Sooner or later, corrosion can appear on any car, and the sooner you start fighting it, the less the body will suffer. But how to get rid of rust so that it no longer appears on the affected area and at the same time the car returns an attractive appearance? We have prepared a step-by-step description of the process of removing rust with subsequent protection of the body from corrosion in the article.
Before removing rust spots from the body, you must thoroughly wash it so that the surface of the car is perfectly clean. The fact is that the affected areas are poorly visible on a dirty surface; moreover, without observing this requirement, it is impossible to qualitatively perform the subsequent finishing and protection of the metal from corrosion.
If the corroded area is difficult to access due to other parts, they must be dismantled. This can be a bumper, molding, turn signal, emblem, etc. In addition, the surfaces around the area affected by rust must be pasted over with masking tape so as not to damage them during work and not to stain with paint. This completes the preparatory actions.
In order to quickly and efficiently get rid of rust on the car body at home, you need to prepare the following set of tools:
I must say that on sale there are repair kits for combating rust, such as "Tsinkor-Auto". They contain three components - a rust converter, a degreaser and an anti-corrosion coating, usually made from zinc. Such kits allow you to eliminate small foci of corrosion.
The greatest effect can be achieved by combating rust in a complex manner. Therefore, further we will apply both methods at once.
We start with mechanical treatment of rusty places. To do this, it is better to use a grinder or an electric drill, since it is quite difficult and long to clean it yourself. Rust must be removed together with old paint and a layer of old primer, i.e. it is necessary to work until a clean shiny metal appears, not only in the area affected by rust, but also in the area around it, about a centimeter or two wide. When the surface is cleaned, sand the top with P600, if necessary, sand the hard-to-reach areas by hand.
If you do not have a power tool on hand, you will have to remove the paint by hand. To do this, use a P120 grain sandpaper. Then sand with P600. If the metal is rotten through and through, it is necessary to expand the hole to a “living” metal. Then treat the prepared surface with a rust converter. A chemical agent will allow you to get rid of even microscopic traces of corrosion.
Do not use a coarser sandpaper than P120, as this will leave deep scratches on the surface that will need to be putty.
Shake well before using. Then, using a spray bottle, brush or even a rag, apply the liquid so that the surface is thoroughly moistened.After that, stop working and wait until the composition is completely dry. Next, brush the surface with a wire brush to remove any remaining transducer that has not reacted, as well as transformed sandpaper.
To obtain the greatest effect, the procedure must be repeated. At the end of the work, the treated area must be thoroughly rinsed with water and then wiped dry with a rag. Please note that this is a must and cannot be ignored.
Using this principle, treat all rusty spots on the surface of the car.
Most often, corrosion appears on doors under moldings, where dirt and moisture accumulate, as well as on sills. Therefore, remove all attachments in these areas, as rust may be hidden underneath.
So, we have successfully coped with the removal of rust. Now you need to immediately start anti-corrosion treatment of the prepared area, otherwise, after a few days, new traces of corrosion will begin to appear on the surface. We start work by wiping the metal with a degreaser. To do this, simply soak the rags in the liquid and then wipe the brushed metal with them.
Next, you need to apply an anti-corrosion primer to the surface. It not only protects the metal from corrosion, but also improves the adhesion between the base and the putty or paint and varnish material. The primer is applied with a spray gun or a regular brush. After the first coat has dried, apply a second coat and then a third. Read more about the use of primer in the manufacturer's instructions. The fact is that different soils have their own nuances that must be taken into account when applying them. Thus, prime all corrosion-free areas.
Anti-corrosion primer helps to stop the development of corrosion. Therefore, if necessary, after applying it, you can take a break from work, but it is still not worth tightening too much.
After that, you need to close up the holes, if, of course, there are any. Use fiberglass filler to seal the small hole. Apply it with a spatula as on a regular solid surface. Due to its rather thick consistency and the presence of fiberglass in the structure, it will not fall into the hole.
If the hole is larger, 2-3 cm in diameter, you can glue masking tape on the back of the metal. If the area of the hole is large, i.e. more than 3–4 cm in diameter, it can be sealed with glass mat, which is glued with polyester resin. To do this, first cut a patch of glass wool so that it overlaps the undamaged metal by 5-10 centimeters. Then mix the resin with the hardener, as a rule, the latter is added in the amount of 3% of the resin amount.
Keep in mind that the “pot life” of the resin is about 10 minutes, after which it hardens and sets. Therefore, immediately after mixing, apply it with a brush to the prepared surface and attach a fiberglass patch to this area. Smear the surface of the patch with resin so that it is completely saturated with it. After the resin hardens, it must be sanded with sandpaper to remove any large irregularities.
If the damage to the body is insignificant, the surface does not even need to be putty, it is enough to apply several layers of primer, after which you can start painting.
Then apply a thin layer of finishing or universal putty to the surface, trying to smooth it as neatly as possible. After drying, clean the coating with “zero” sandpaper. Next, the surface must be thoroughly cleaned of dust. So that stains do not appear under the paint and the paint itself adheres well, apply another layer of primer to the surface. After hardening, the soil must be sanded with “zero” sandpaper, previously soaked in water.
After that, the prepared surface must be painted.To repair a small area, you can use spray paint. If you need to touch up a very small area, you can use a repair pencil with paint or paint in small tubes, which is sold with a brush, like women's nail polish. On this, in fact, the repair of the car body is completed. The only thing is that you can apply varnish over the paint and then polish it.
VIDEO
Finally, here are some helpful tips for removing rust:
the best quality of mechanical corrosion removal can be achieved using a sandblaster, since it allows you to process even the smallest pores, but does not change the thickness of the metal;
to eliminate rust by a chemical method, you can use indelible converters that turn rust into a protective film suitable for applying finishing materials;
if the rust is cleaned by hand, moisten the sandpaper in white spirit, which will slightly increase the efficiency of the work;
if you don't have a rust converter, make it yourself. To do this, add 15-20 grams of oxalic acid to two liters of water, as well as a little citric acid and baking soda. The resulting liquid should be applied to the corroded area and wait 3-5 minutes. Then the surface must be rinsed well;
instead of a degreaser, you can use a regular dish detergent;
when removing rust, chisel off a piece of paint from the car and save it, it will allow you to accurately match the paint to the body color.
Here, perhaps, are all the main points, knowing which you, even at home, will be able to perform high-quality repair of the body of your car.
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The fight against corrosion of a car often causes a lot of problems for its owner. For this, three main methods are used - passive, active and electrochemical, but each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Most often, corrosion is removed using special tools. And for the purpose of prophylaxis on the bottom, the thresholds of the case and other hidden places are glued with a protective film or treated with mastic. There are also other preventive measures, which we will discuss with you next.
First, let's figure out why corrosion processes occur. The fact is that corrosion of metal surfaces is of four types - electrochemical, chemical, hydrogen and oxygen. In the context of car body rusting, only the first two types occur.
Electrochemical corrosion occurs due to the fact that two materials with different reducing properties interact through an electrolyte (any non-distilled water is such). Since iron has low reducing properties, it is highly susceptible to rusting. Chemical corrosion occurs due to the interaction between the metal surface and the corrosive environment. The latter can be oxygen at high temperatures.Understanding the essence of the emerging processes gives us the basis for looking for methods of combating corrosion.
There are two main ways to protect the car body from corrosion. The first is barrier protection. It does not allow physical interaction of the surface of vulnerable metals with the external environment. This is reflected in the use of paintwork and various mechanical means and protections. The second is protective protection. Galvanizing is an example of this, because zinc has a more negative potential than iron. Accordingly, if you combine them, then in such a pair, iron will be reduced, and zinc will corrode. However, since there is an oxide film on the zinc surface, this process is very slow.
As mentioned earlier, there are three main types of car corrosion control:
Rust removal brushes
Passive fighting method assumes the use of paintwork on the body. The task of the car owner in this case is to maintain the integrity of the paintwork. The appearance of small chips or scratches on its surface should not be allowed. This method includes periodic washing of the car, as well as the use of additional protective equipment - wax, liquid glass, and so on.
Under active method of struggle cars with corrosion imply the use of special anti-corrosion materials and mastics. They differ depending on which areas of the body are used. For example, the underside of a car is often treated with an anti-gravel coating. As a rule, these compositions are based on finely dispersed aluminum powder. There are also special anticorrosive agents for wheel arches, the most commonly used for this is the so-called liquid locker (strong elastic material). A separate class is anti-corrosion materials for hollow cavities. They are designed for the treatment of thresholds, struts, side members, floor reinforcements and other surfaces.
Electrochemical control method with corrosion of metal on the body of a car is to use a special electronic device, which includes an electrode designed to take on the corrosion. Simply put, it is not the body of the machine that will rust, but the mentioned electrode. This method is very effective, but its significant disadvantage is its high cost.
Now let's move on directly to the methods and means for combating corrosion on a car with our own hands. The first step is to mechanically remove rust from the surface. And do it very carefully! For these purposes, use sandpaper, various abrasive wheels for a drill or grinder, as well as sandblasting. It is the last tool that most effectively cleans the affected surface.
Also, special compounds are used to remove corrosion. The simplest in this case is the use of a weak solution of hydrochloric acid, followed by its removal.
but the most reliable method of combating corrosion is to use converters or rust modifiers. They convert iron oxide to iron tannate. As a rule, they contain polymers that act as a primer.
Automotive rust converters convert corrosion into a layer of iron and zinc phosphates and chromates. They are also sometimes used to treat non-corroded metal prior to primer application to prevent future corrosion and to improve the adhesion of paintwork to the metal surface.
An independent fight against car corrosion has the following sequence:
Degreasing the surface. To do this, you can use various means, for example, alcohol or white spirit.
Removing rust from the case
Remember that all work must be carried out carefully, as even a small stain of rust can grow significantly over time.
Is always check the condition of welds on the machine body. Remember that they are the most vulnerable to corrosion. In particular, its intercrystalline type, which is especially dangerous. The consequence of its appearance is an imperceptible loss of ductility and strength of the metal. So, the boundaries of the welded grains are destroyed chaotically, and the areas of structural transformations turn into an anode, which dissolves rapidly. Moreover, this phenomenon can be observed not only on the iron cases of cars, but also on stainless steel, aluminum, chromium-nickel and chromium alloys. Corrosion in this case threatens spalling of individual metal grains, due to which the seam and the body as a whole gradually lose their mechanical properties.
The most prone to rusting areas of the car body are the lower parts of the door panels, sills, front fenders, box-sections of the lower part of the body, the inner surface of the wheel arches. Due to the fact that access to the listed places is difficult, there is always a risk of not noticing the appearance of foci of rust. Check their condition on the inspection pit or on the lift!
Currently, there are dozens of different rust converters in car dealerships, and their range can be different in different regions of the country. Therefore, it makes no sense to give recommendations on the purchase of this or that product. But we will still give as an example several names of popular formulations that are common among car owners. So:
Popular remedy "Tsinkar"
Tsinkar;
"Movil";
Hi-Gear range of rust converters;
"Kolchuga";
Sonax;
"SF-1";
Runway;
Permatex;
Bitumast;
"Phosphomet".
It must be remembered that with the help of any converter it is possible to deal with rust, the layer of which does not exceed 0.1 mm. In addition, the active ingredients fight only stubborn rust. It is better to remove its loose component mechanically (using sandpaper, a knife, a metal brush, sandblasting, and so on).
The choice of this or that product should be based on the range, its composition, price. Fortunately, they are inexpensive, so if the purchased product turns out to be ineffective, you can always buy another one.
To remove rust from a car body, it is not at all necessary to contact a company car service. Small spots of corrosion and paint chips on the body, doors or hood of the car can be removed by many motorists with their own hands. Removing rust from the body will extend the life of your car and improve its appearance.
Rust spots on the body can appear both from the "aging" of the car, and as a result of careless handling. For example, it is worth opening the door once inaccurately, and the chips are right there. It is not clear what to do with this: repainting the door is expensive, and traveling with them is fraught with consequences.
We will tell you how easy and simple, and most importantly inexpensive, to independently get rid of rust on the car body and reliably protect it from corrosion. At the end of the article watch the video about removing rust in the most efficient and simplest way.
Also on our site you may be interested in the following articles:
And so, we propose to consider the main methods of self-removal of rust from the car body.
There are several ways to get rid of rust on the body of a car, but in this material we will consider only two of the simplest methods that almost every motorist can handle with their own hands.
Mechanical rust removal;
Rust removal by electrochemical method.
The first method is very cheap, but at the same time more labor-intensive, and the second is quite simple, but the cost of the materials used can sometimes be slightly higher than in the first case.
After removing the rust, it will be advisable to paint over the place of damage on the car body, regardless of which of the above methods you choose.
For these purposes, in many cases, cosmetic enamel in the form of a small bubble with a brush, reminiscent of nail polish, is excellent. You can choose such an enamel to match the body color using the fan catalog available in any auto shop with a paint department.
The procedure for removing rust by mechanical and electrochemical methods, as well as their advantages and disadvantages, we will consider below.
Removing rust mechanically means cleaning the corroded areas down to metal using sandpaper or a wire brush.
After cleaning, such places must be treated with a rust converter and painted over.
Advantages of mechanical rust removal:
Ability to remove large and difficult places with paint swelling, active raised corrosion;
Everything you need to remove rust can be bought at any car and even in a hardware store;
Low cost of materials used.
The disadvantage of this method of dealing with rust is a rather high labor intensity, as well as the duration of the process itself.
To remove rust mechanically, we need:
any rust converter;
masking tape;
some sandpaper;
cosmetic enamel;
rags for washing and cleaning.
If the damaged areas are severely corroded, then a coarser sandpaper (grit size 120) or a wire brush should be used. But in most cases, fine sandpaper with a grain of 400 or 600 will be enough to remove rust.
Before starting work, wash the car thoroughly so that all damaged areas are clearly visible - instructions on how to wash the car correctly.
Using sandpaper or a brush, rust must be brushed down to bare metal. You should not get too carried away with this process, so as not to remove the paint next to the damaged area.
The cleaned surface must be wiped and, if necessary, also degreased (depending on the rust converter you are using).
Cover the body parts adjacent to the damaged area that will not be processed with masking tape.
Treat the prepared place with a rust converter to protect the metal from the spread of corrosion in the future. Most of these products will convert rust to a primer, which improves paint adhesion.
After complete drying of the rust converter, touch up the repair sites with cosmetic enamel.
The last sixth point refers to damage that is small in size. If significant area elements of the body were exposed to rust (for example, thresholds or cavities under the bumpers), then cosmetic enamel is not enough - these places will have to be putty, primed and painted. For more information on how to do this, see our instructions for painting your car.
The electrochemical method of rust removal means carrying out redox reactions on damaged parts of the body in an electrolyte solution under the influence of an electric current.
At first glance, it seems that it is very difficult. But in fact, this process is the simplest and most reliable way to get rid of rust and protect the body from corrosion for many years.
To remove rust by electrochemical method, there are special ready-made kits, such as "Tsinkor-Auto". Following the instructions, almost any motorist will be able to remove rust on their own.
Advantages of the electrochemical method:
Complete removal of rust on damaged areas of the body;
Application or restoration of a protective zinc layer by the electrolytic method;
Safety for car paintwork, due to the absence of phosphoric acid in the composition of solutions;
The result is achieved in a short period of time - for everything about everything, no more than an hour;
Easy to use.
Among the shortcomings, we can note that the technology of electrochemical cleaning of metal does not allow coping with large areas of through corrosion without additional technical means (cold welding, soldering, etc.).
In car dealerships, a set for local rust removal and subsequent galvanizing of the body surface "Tsinkor-Auto" costs about 1500-1600 rubles, but in many online stores it can be bought cheaper.
Solution No. 1 for degreasing and rust removal;
Solution No. 2 for applying a protective zinc coating;
# 1 stainless steel electrode for surface preparation;
Electrode No. 2 with a zinc tip for applying a protective coating;
Connecting wire;
Instruction.
The set is designed for processing up to 1 square meter of surface.
The electrochemical rust removal process is simple (see video below):
We connect the connecting wire with the "crocodile" to the car battery, and the other end to the electrode No. 1 from the set;
We moisten the connected electrode No. 1 in solution No. 1 for degreasing and removing rust;
With smooth, even movements, we clean the metal surface from the remnants of dirt and rust, after which we wash off the remnants of the solution with an abundant amount of water;
Connect electrode # 2 to the wire and moisten the electrode swab in solution # 2;
With light uniform movements of the electrode, apply solution No. 2 over the entire working surface until the surface of the brushed metal darkens and becomes more dull.
To apply a durable protective layer up to 15 microns thick, 2-3 minutes is quite enough. The whole process is well illustrated in the video below.
VIDEO
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Of course, the most correct and cardinal solution in the fight against corrosion will be to replace the entire part as a whole, however:
It happens that such a part cannot be obtained, or its cost exceeds reasonable limits, but you always want to save money;
Therefore, now we will figure out how to eliminate rust on the car body with our own hands;
There are several ways, and they are all quite laborious;
Modern cars have galvanized bodies, at least most;
This prevents corrosion from developing, however, with deep scratches, creases and chips, the protective zinc layer is damaged;
How do you make sure your car body is galvanized?
It is enough to study the passport data of your car;
Or, very carefully scrape off the paint from an inconspicuous area of the body, not forgetting to then paint it over;
For a car, a stainless steel body is not produced, most likely the matter is in the cost of production, so the problem of rust remains relevant;
It is necessary to observe safety measures, use goggles and rubber gloves, when doing bodywork, to avoid contact with the body of chemicals.
If the body is damaged by rust in several places, it is necessary to thoroughly wash these places with car shampoo before starting work, then:
After the body has dried, all problem areas must be treated with a coarse sandpaper, or use a metal brush;
It is not recommended to use a grinder, because the grinding discs remove the metal layer;
Only discs with a plastic sole are suitable for this procedure;
Use an abrasive wheel mounted on a drill to go through problem areas.
If the corrosion is deep, and even small holes have appeared, then they act in the following way:
With the help of a conical brush (more rigid is recommended) put on the drill, rust is removed from the car body
Attention: The use of abrasive wheels and a grinder is not allowed - you will simply burn through the metal, after such cleaning it will rot very quickly.
After cleaning, you can confidently assess how deeply the corrosion has penetrated. The cleaned place is blown with air from the compressor, then you need to put a searchlight or a lantern behind the part;
If the body part is not removable, then you must try to stick a light source from behind;
In places where holes have appeared, luminous points will be visible when the ambient light is off;
Instructions on how to stop corrosion of a car body are as follows:
The simplest way is to seal the holes with ordinary tin solder;
To do this, you need a hammer soldering iron, soldering acid (rosin is not suitable here), POS-61 grade solder, a building hair dryer can still be useful to warm up the repair place when the power of the soldering iron is not enough;
Get a rust converter, you can't do without it.
Attention: Before starting work with a new soldering iron, you should irradiate the tip (its working surface).
Before starting work, the repair place with through corrosion should be cleaned of rust residues;
Because the solder will not stick to the rusty surface;
The most important thing is not to be lazy when you are too lazy to mess around, then go back to the beginning, where it is recommended to purchase a new part;
To remove the remnants of rye, you need a sharp-pointed file, or a piece of a hacksaw blade, or a knife with a sharp blade and an abrasive cloth;
With a coarse sandpaper, (grain P60-80) they pass through the center of rust (if not brushed), this is how the surface layer is removed;
Then you should pick out the rust from the metal, which has already eaten;
To make the places clearly visible, you need to apply a rust converter with a brush and wait a couple of minutes;
Rust will darken and become clearly visible on clean metal
The process is the most dreary and time consuming;
The rust converter should be constantly applied to these places with a brush;
In this way, you wash away the rust that you have already picked out, and you see where you should put extra effort;
After the place is cleaned, you can start serving it;
Attention: When the diameter of the through holes exceeds 2-3 millimeters, it will no longer be possible to fill them with solder; this method is suitable when through corrosion is formed in the form of a fine mesh.
Apply soldering acid to the surface until it dries, you need to apply tin solder with a heated soldering iron over the entire cleaned surface, where holes from corrosion already exist and may appear
To improve the adhesion of tin solder, constantly lubricate the evaporating acid
When the metal of the body is thick and the power of the hammer soldering iron is not enough to heat the tin, then use an industrial hair dryer or a second soldering iron
Advice: Soldering should be done in the open air or in a ventilated room (or in a room with a forced draft), since the evaporated acid is very harmful to the respiratory tract, and its smell is not pleasant.
Repair of corrosive damage to the body does not tolerate hackwork, the price of careless work - the body will rust again and very quickly;
After completing the work, again check with a light whether there are still through holes;
After the repair site has been tinned, and the foci of corrosion are soldered, the treated surfaces should be cleaned of acid and converter that could remain;
As a rule, they are washed with water or with a mixture of gasoline and alcohol;
In order to increase the service life of a repaired body part, it is important to properly protect it from contact with the atmosphere;
On the tinned place of this body part, apply an acidic primer using a paint sprayer, then, on top of it, an acrylic primer, only then can the surface be putty;
Important: Putty must not be put on top of the acidic primer; therefore, put acrylic primer.
If suddenly, when sanding the putty, you have wipes to the metal - there is nothing wrong with that, just blow it out again with acidic soil and coat the exposed areas with acrylic;
When completing the restoration of a rusty car body, you should definitely protect the back side of that repair place;
Mandatory condition! Otherwise, all the work done will go to waste;
There are many ways to protect against corrosion, the main thing is to block the access of moisture and air to the protected area;
The first option is to prime the reverse side with acid and acrylic primers;
The second option is to apply a layer of good sealant, mastic, or fill it with Movil;
The choice of option will depend on the ease of access to the treated surface;
If you can't crawl with a sprayer, try to apply primer with a brush, and then cover with Movil, for reliability, or a similar agent;
Now it is clear to you how to restore a car body from rust with small holes;
When a hole has already formed in the body, putty or soldering is not enough:
The easiest way is to make and install a patch;
Of course, this method is suitable for holes with a diameter of no more than 5-7 centimeters, when the hole is larger, the replacement of a body element is definitely necessary, or welding work;
How to get rid of rust on the car body if holes have already appeared?
First, the place of damage should be thoroughly washed, then cleaned to remove rust, as described above;
After that, a patch is cut out with a size slightly larger than the hole, made of thin metal, a tin can is suitable;
Now you need the same hammer soldering iron, with its help you have to tin the surfaces from the outside of the hole and the edge of the finished patch;
Soldering acid or its analog is used as a flux;
At the end, it will be necessary to solder the patch with a continuous seam, then the patch must be upset with a hammer;
Clean the protruding edges with coarse sandpaper;
After that, cover the defective place with putty, prime and paint;
Body repair after rusting can be done by welding;
The patch is carbon dioxide welded to the body, but for this you need a welding machine (or a welder with a machine), plus the skills of a welder;
Further processing as with the previous patch, cleaning, priming, filler, sanding the filler and painting;
Do not forget about processing the back side.
We wish you success in your bodywork!
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The body of a car is the most expensive part of it.But the modern auto industry offers car bodies of such quality that one can encounter the "first signs" of decay within the first two years of operation.
One of the easiest ways to solve the problem, or rather to slow down its development, is to contact a specialized car service. There they will perform an expensive cycle of removing rust through, from welding to painting.
Is it possible to repair the body with your own hands, the rust that "ate" to the hole? The variety of tools and materials offered in auto dealerships allows you to perform several ways to get rid of perforated rust from the body. They will cost less than professional repairs and take relatively little time.
Pull-through corrosion of the body is completely eliminated in only one way - by completely replacing the affected part. But this method is appropriate only in cases where the size of the affected area is more than 10 cm in diameter. Experienced body repairmen believe that with the right approach and the use of special materials, holes up to 8-10 cm in size are repaired.
To perform such work, you will not need special expensive tools, but minimal skills of working with your hands will not interfere. Every caring car owner is interested in how to repair perforating car corrosion without having to replace body parts.
There are several ways to solve this problem, namely:
Welding is a local approach to combating rust penetration, which implies the presence of special welding equipment and experience with it;
A patch - or "solder" - soldering a suitable piece of metal with a soldering iron and tin solder;
Mesh - building up the missing fragment of a part using a special mesh. Works in conjunction with fiberglass and epoxy resin.
Fiberglass - you need a special fiberglass putty and a special material to create a multi-layer rigid surface.
Putty - This is only effective when using backing backing and long fiber automotive putty.
Riveting is an outdated method and requires a special tool (riveter), or a hammer and rivets.
A special aluminum patch mesh is used as the main material, or a similar non-professional mesh with a small section is selected. Nowadays, you can get by with the usual household plastic, metal or fabric mesh.
Several suitable pieces are prepared. Stretching one of them from the inside of the part and giving the necessary shape to the missing part, the mesh is attached using masking tape. Epoxy is applied to the mesh layer by layer.
Each layer should dry well. This should be repeated with the next piece of the mesh. And so we close it until a hard surface is obtained.
From this material, you can make not only a fragment, but also a complete part. The sequence of actions is the same as with the mesh (the rust hole is sealed on the car body), but using fiberglass. In fact, the skeleton of the missing element is being created.
Corrosion of the body can be removed only by following a certain sequence of actions in this process. Despite the variety of DIY repair methods for through corrosion, the motorist should know what to do with through corrosion of the body at the beginning of work. The complexity of the work itself will depend on the general condition of the car body.
First, you need to clean the corroded surface so that there is a clean piece of metal without traces of corrosion. If it is not possible to do this carefully, then the damaged fragment is cut out.
In each version of the repair of through corrosion, all the cleaned places are covered with an acidic or epoxy primer.
From a suitable piece of metal (for body repair of through corrosion, metal with a thickness of 0.8 mm is required) a patch is made 2-3 mm larger than the through hole. If possible, the patch is applied from the back side of the body part, and by welding it is welded with dots along the contour from the front side.
In no case should you cook with a continuous seam, so as not to lead and tighten the metal.
Welding points are cleaned flush with the repair area. It turns out a depression, which is then leveled with automobile putties.
The principle of operation is the same as for welding, but instead of metal 0.8, tin is used (for example, cut out from under a tin can). The patch is cut out slightly more than the repair site. Using a powerful soldering iron and tin solder, the patch is soldered with a continuous seam.
The protruding sealed area on the car can be slightly drowned with a hammer, but this will complicate further work with the putty, therefore, it is necessary to be careful and accurate.
For such repairs, only a special automotive fiberglass putty is used. Starting from the large (starting) and ending with the small (finishing) faction. To do this, you will definitely need a substrate (for example, a piece of abrasive cloth).
Work surfaces must be degreased and primed with acid or epoxy primer and allowed to dry. After the primer, the filler will be applied in layers. For adhesion of materials, apply the risk with an abrasive cloth (H 120-150). The surface is degreased again and putty is applied in a thin layer.
Each layer is thoroughly dried from 30 minutes to several hours, depending on the thickness and air temperature. The dried putty is rubbed with an abrasive, smoothing the boundaries of the resulting halo.
The result is a flat surface for applying primer and paintwork.
The thickness of the layer of automotive putty should not exceed 2 mm. Thicker layers will lead to cracking of the material.
Whatever method of repairing through corrosion of the body is carried out, cosmetic painting work will be required to complete it. This includes multi-layer leveling of the repair surface with several types of automotive fillers.
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Each layer is dried and rubbed with abrasives. After that, the surface is primed with epoxy primer, then leveling. After that, paint and varnish is applied.
Painting a car or its parts requires special skills, so it is best to entrust it to professionals.
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Pull-through corrosion is a critical defect. The condition of the body affects not only the appearance and reliability of the car, but also the safety of its owner. Therefore, it is advisable to regularly inspect the body and carry out preventive anti-corrosion treatments.
