Corrosion can appear on any car sooner or later, and the sooner you start fighting it, the less the body will suffer. But how to get rid of rust so that it no longer appears on the affected area and at the same time the car returns to its attractive appearance? We have prepared a step-by-step description of the process of removing rust, followed by protecting the body from corrosion, in the article.
Before removing pockets of rust from the body, it is necessary to wash it thoroughly so that the surface of the car is perfectly clean. The fact is that on a dirty surface, the affected areas are poorly visible, moreover, without complying with this requirement, it is impossible to qualitatively perform the subsequent finishing and protection of the metal from corrosion.
If the corroded area is difficult to access due to other parts, they must be dismantled. It can be a bumper, molding, turn signal, emblem, etc. In addition, the surfaces around the rusted area must be pasted over with masking tape so as not to damage them during work and not to stain them with paint. This completes the preparatory steps.
To qualitatively and quickly get rid of rust on a car body at home, you need to prepare the following set of tools:
I must say that there are repair kits for rust control on sale, such as Zincor-Auto. They contain three components - a rust converter, a degreaser and an anti-corrosion coating, usually made on the basis of zinc. Such kits allow you to eliminate small pockets of corrosion.
The greatest effect can be achieved if you deal with rust comprehensively. Therefore, further we will apply both methods at once.
We start work with mechanical processing of rusty places. To do this, it is better to use a grinder or an electric drill, since cleaning it yourself is quite difficult and long. Rust must be removed together with old paint and a layer of old primer, i.e. it is necessary to work until a clean shiny metal appears, not only on the rust-affected area, but also on the area around it, about a centimeter or two wide. When the surface is clean, go over the top with P600 sandpaper, sanding hard-to-reach places by hand if necessary.
If you do not have a power tool at hand, you will have to remove the paint manually. To do this, use sandpaper with grain P120. Then clean with P600 sandpaper. If the metal is rotten through and through, it is necessary to expand the hole to the “live” metal. Then treat the prepared surface with a rust converter. A chemical agent will get rid of even microscopic traces of corrosion.
Do not use a coarser sandpaper than P120, as it will leave deep scratches on the surface that will have to be putty.
Shake the composition thoroughly before using it. Then, using a sprayer, brush or even a rag, apply the liquid so that the surface is thoroughly wetted.After that, stop working and wait until the composition is completely dry. Next, brush the surface with a wire brush to remove any unreacted transducer residue, as well as the converted sandpaper.
To obtain the greatest effect, the procedure must be repeated. At the end of the work, the treated area must be thoroughly rinsed with water and then wiped dry with a cloth. Please note that this is a mandatory requirement that cannot be neglected.
Use this principle to treat all rusty spots on the surface of the car.
Most often, corrosion appears on the doors under the moldings, where dirt and moisture accumulate, as well as on the thresholds. Therefore, dismantle all attachments in these areas, as rust can hide under them.
So, we successfully coped with the removal of rust. Now it is necessary to immediately begin anti-corrosion treatment of the prepared area, otherwise, after a few days, new traces of corrosion will begin to appear on the surface. We begin work by wiping the metal with a degreaser. To do this, simply soak the rags in the liquid and then wipe the cleaned metal with them.
Next, you need to apply an anti-corrosion primer to the surface. It will not only protect the metal from corrosion, but also improve the adhesion between the base and the putty or paintwork material. The primer is applied with a sprayer or a conventional brush. After the first layer has dried, apply a second layer and then a third. For more information about the use of primer, read the instructions from the manufacturer. The fact is that different soils have their own nuances that must be taken into account when applying them. Thus, treat with a primer all places cleaned from corrosion.
Anti-corrosion primer allows you to stop the development of corrosion. Therefore, if necessary, after applying it, you can take a break in work, but you still should not tighten it too much.
After that, you need to close up the holes, if, of course, there are any. Use fiberglass putty to seal a small hole. Apply it with a spatula as you would a normal solid surface. Due to the rather thick consistency and the presence of fiberglass in the structure, it will not fall into the hole.
If the hole is larger, with a diameter of 2–3 cm, masking tape can be glued on the back of the metal. If the area of the hole is large, i.e. more than 3-4 cm in diameter, it can be sealed with fiberglass, which is glued with polyester resin. To do this, pre-cut a patch of fiberglass so that it overlaps the undamaged metal by 5–10 centimeters. Then mix the resin with a hardener, usually the latter is added in an amount of 3% of the amount of resin.
Keep in mind that the "life" of the resin is about 10 minutes, after which it hardens and sets. Therefore, immediately after kneading, apply it with a brush on the prepared surface and attach a fiberglass patch to this area. Coat the surface of the patch with resin so that it is completely saturated with it. After the resin hardens, it must be sanded with sandpaper to remove any large irregularities.
If the damage to the body is minor, the surface can not even be putty, it is enough to apply several layers of primer, after which you can start painting.
Then apply a thin layer of finishing or universal putty to the surface, trying to smooth it as accurately as possible. After drying, clean the coating with sandpaper “zero”. Next, the surface must be thoroughly cleaned of dust. To prevent stains from appearing under the paint and to keep the paint itself well, apply another coat of primer to the surface. After hardening, the primer must be sanded with sandpaper “zero”, previously soaked in water.
After that, the prepared surface must be painted.To repair a small area, you can use paint in a spray can. If you need to touch up a very small area, you can use a repair pencil with paint or paint in small tubes, which is sold with a brush, like women's nail polish. On this, in fact, the repair of the car body is completed. The only thing is that you can apply varnish on top of the paint and then polish it.
VIDEO
Here are some helpful rust removal tips:
the best quality of mechanical corrosion removal can be achieved using a sandblaster, as it allows you to process even the smallest pores, but does not change the thickness of the metal;
to eliminate rust chemically, you can use indelible converters that turn rust into a protective film suitable for applying finishing materials;
if rust is removed manually, moisten the sandpaper in white spirit, which will slightly increase work efficiency;
If you don't have a rust converter, make your own. To do this, add 15–20 grams of oxalic acid to two liters of water, as well as a little citric acid and baking soda. The resulting liquid must be treated with a corroded area and wait 3-5 minutes. Then the surface must be washed well;
instead of a degreaser, you can use a regular dish detergent;
when removing rust, chip off a piece of paint from the car and save it, it will allow you to accurately match the paint to the color of the body.
Here, perhaps, are all the main points, knowing that even at home you can perform high-quality repairs to the body of your car.
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The fight against corrosion of a car often causes a lot of problems for its owner. To do this, three main methods are used - passive, active and electrochemical, but each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Most often, corrosion is removed using special tools. And for the purpose of prevention, on the bottom, hull thresholds and other hidden places, a protective film is glued or treated with mastic. There are also other preventive measures, which we will talk about with you later.
To begin with, we will understand why corrosion processes occur. The fact is that there are four types of corrosion of metal surfaces - electrochemical, chemical, hydrogen and oxygen. In the context of car body rusting, only the first two types occur.
Electrochemical corrosion occurs because two materials with different reducing properties interact through an electrolyte (any non-distilled water is one). Since iron has low reducing properties, it is highly susceptible to rusting. Chemical corrosion occurs due to the interaction of the metal surface and the corrosive environment. Oxygen can act as the latter at high temperatures.Understanding the essence of emerging processes gives us grounds for searching for methods to combat corrosion.
There are two main ways to protect the car body from corrosion. The first is barrier protection. It does not allow the physical interaction of the surface of vulnerable metals with the external environment. This is expressed in the use of paintwork and various mechanical means and protections. The second is tread protection. An example of this is galvanization, because zinc has a more negative potential than iron. Accordingly, if you connect them, then in such a pair iron will be restored, and zinc will corrode. However, since there is an oxide film on the zinc surface, this process is very slow.
As mentioned earlier, there are three main types of corrosion control on a car:
Corrosion removal brushes
Passive fighting method involves the use of body paintwork. The task of the car owner in this case is to maintain the integrity of the paintwork. Do not allow the appearance of small chips or scratches on its surface. This method should also include periodic washing of the car, as well as the use of additional protective agents - wax, liquid glass, and so on.
Under active method of struggle with car corrosion imply the use of special anti-corrosion materials and mastics. They differ depending on which parts of the body are used. For example, the bottom of a car is often treated with an anti-gravel coating. As a rule, these compositions are based on fine aluminum powder. There are also special anti-corrosion agents for wheel arches. Most often, the so-called liquid locker (durable elastic material) is used for this. A separate class are anti-corrosion materials for hidden cavities. They are designed for processing thresholds, pillars, spars, floor reinforcements and other surfaces.
Electrochemical method of struggle with metal corrosion on a car body is to use a special electronic device that incorporates an electrode designed to take on corrosion. Simply put, it will not be the body of the machine that will rust, but the said electrode. This method is very effective, but its significant drawback is the high price.
Now let's go directly to the methods and means to combat corrosion on a car with our own hands. First of all, it is necessary to mechanically remove rust from the surface. And do it very carefully! For these purposes, use sandpaper, various abrasive wheels for a drill or grinder, as well as sandblasting. It is the latter tool that most effectively cleans the affected surface.
Also, special compounds are used to remove corrosion. The simplest in this case is the use of a weak solution of hydrochloric acid, followed by its removal.
but the most reliable method of corrosion control is to use rust converters or modifiers. They convert iron oxide to iron tannate. As a rule, they include polymers that act as a primer.
Rust converters for cars convert corrosion into a layer of iron and zinc phosphates and chromates. They are also sometimes used to treat uncorroded metal before applying a primer to prevent future corrosion and to improve the adhesion of the paintwork to the metal surface.
An independent fight against car corrosion has the following sequence:
Surface degreasing. To do this, you can use various means, for example, alcohol or white spirit.
Removing rust from the hull
Remember that all work must be carried out carefully, since even a small stain of rust can grow significantly over time.
Is always check the condition of the welds on the body of the machine. Remember that they are the most vulnerable to corrosion. In particular, its intercrystalline form, which is especially dangerous. The consequence of its appearance is an imperceptible loss of ductility and strength of the metal. So, the boundaries of welded grains are destroyed chaotically, and the regions of structural transformations turn into an anode, which dissolves intensively. Moreover, such a phenomenon can be observed not only on iron car bodies, but also on stainless steel, aluminum, chromium-nickel and chromium alloys. Corrosion in this case threatens with chipping of individual metal grains, due to which the seam and the body as a whole gradually lose their mechanical properties.
The most rust-prone areas of the car body are the lower parts of the door panels, sills, front fenders, box-sections of the lower part of the body, the inner surface of the wheel arches. Due to the fact that access to the listed places is difficult, there is always a risk of not noticing the appearance of rust pockets. Check their condition on a viewing hole or on a lift!
Currently, there are dozens of different rust converters in car dealerships, and their range may be different in different regions of the country. Therefore, it makes no sense to give recommendations about the purchase of a particular product. But we still give as an example a few names of popular compositions that are common among car owners. So:
The popular remedy "Tsinkar"
"Tsinkar";
"Movil";
a line of rust converters Hi-Gear;
"Kolchuga";
sonax;
"SF-1";
runway;
permatex;
bitumast;
Phosphomet.
It must be remembered that with the help of any converter it is possible to deal with rust, the layer of which does not exceed 0.1 mm. In addition, the active components fight only with ingrained rust. Its loose component is best removed mechanically (using sandpaper, a knife, a metal brush, sandblasting, and so on).
The choice of one or another means should be based on the assortment, its composition, price. Fortunately, they are inexpensive, so if the purchased product turns out to be ineffective, you can always purchase another one.
To remove rust from a car body, it is not at all necessary to contact a company car service. Small spots of corrosion and chipped paint on the body, doors or hood of the car, many motorists can remove with their own hands. Removing rust from the body will extend the life of your car and improve its appearance.
Rust pockets on the body can appear both from the “aging” of the car, and as a result of careless handling. It is worth, for example, once inaccurately open the door, and chips are right there. What to do with this is unclear: repainting the door is expensive, and driving with them is fraught with consequences.
We will tell you how easy and simple, and most importantly inexpensive, to independently get rid of rust on the car body and reliably protect it from corrosion. At the end of the article watch the video about removing rust in the most effective and simple way.
You may also be interested in the following articles on our website:
And so, we propose to consider the main ways to independently remove rust from a car body.
There are several ways to get rid of rust on a car body, but in this material we will consider only two of the simplest methods that almost every motorist can handle with their own hands.
Removal of rust mechanically;
Rust removal by electrochemical method.
The first method is very cheap, but more labor-intensive, and the second is quite simple, but the cost of the materials used can sometimes be slightly higher than in the first case.
After rust removal, it is desirable to paint over the damaged area on the car body, regardless of which of the above methods you choose.
For these purposes, cosmetic enamel in the form of a small vial with a brush, reminiscent of nail polish, is excellent in many cases. You can choose such an enamel to match the body color using the fan catalog available in any car shop with a car paint department.
The procedure for removing rust by mechanical and electrochemical methods, as well as their advantages and disadvantages, we will consider below.
Removing rust mechanically means cleaning the places subject to corrosion to metal using sandpaper or a wire brush.
After stripping, such places must be treated with a rust converter and painted over.
Advantages of mechanical rust removal:
Possibility to remove large and complex places with “bloating” paint, active “raised” corrosion;
Everything you need to remove rust can be bought at any automotive and even hardware store;
Low cost of materials used.
The disadvantage of this method of dealing with rust can be considered a rather high labor intensity, as well as the duration of the process itself.
To remove rust mechanically, we need:
any rust converter;
masking tape;
a little sandpaper;
cosmetic enamel;
rags for washing and cleaning.
If the damaged areas have undergone severe corrosion, then coarser sandpaper (grain size 120) or a metal brush should be used. But in most cases, fine sandpaper with a grain of 400 or 600 will be enough to remove rust.
Before starting work, wash the car thoroughly so that all damaged areas are clearly visible - instructions on how to properly wash the car.
Using sandpaper or a brush, rust must be cleaned to bare metal. You should not get too carried away with this process, so as not to remove the paint next to the damaged area.
The cleaned surface must be wiped and, if necessary, also degreased (depending on the rust converter you use).
Apply masking tape to the parts of the body adjacent to the damaged area that will not be processed.
Treat the prepared place with a rust converter to protect the metal from the spread of corrosion in the future. Most of these preparations convert rust into a primer, which improves paint adhesion.
After the rust converter has completely dried, touch up the repair areas with cosmetic enamel.
The last sixth point refers to minor damage. If body elements of considerable size were exposed to rust (for example, thresholds or cavities under bumpers), then cosmetic enamel is indispensable - these places will have to be puttied, primed and painted. For more information on how to do this, see our car painting instructions.
Under the electrochemical method of rust removal, we mean the carrying out of redox reactions on damaged areas of the body in an electrolyte solution under the influence of an electric current.
At first glance it seems that it is very difficult. But in fact, this process is the simplest and most reliable way to get rid of rust and protect the body from corrosion for many years.
For electrochemical rust removal, there are special ready-made kits, such as Zincor-Auto. Following the instructions, almost any motorist can independently remove rust.
Advantages of the electrochemical method:
Complete removal of rust on damaged areas of the body;
Drawing or restoration of a protective layer of zinc by an electrolytic method;
Safety for the car paintwork, due to the absence of phosphoric acid in the composition of the solutions;
The result is achieved in a short period of time - for everything about everything no more than an hour;
Easy to use.
Among the shortcomings, we can note that the technology of electrochemical metal cleaning does not allow coping with large areas of through corrosion without additional technical means (cold welding, soldering, etc.).
In car dealerships, a kit for local rust removal and subsequent galvanizing of the Zincor-Auto body surface costs about 1500-1600 rubles, but you can buy it cheaper in many online stores.
Solution No. 1 for degreasing and removing rust;
Solution No. 2 for applying a protective zinc coating;
#1 stainless steel electrode for surface preparation;
Electrode No. 2 with a zinc tip for applying a protective coating;
Connecting wire;
Instruction.
The kit is designed for processing up to 1 square meter of surface.
The electrochemical rust removal process is simple (see the video below):
We connect the connecting wire with a “crocodile” to the car battery, and with the other end to electrode No. 1 from the kit;
Wet the connected electrode No. 1 in solution No. 1 for degreasing and removing rust;
With smooth, uniform movements, we clean the metal surface from the remnants of dirt and rust, after which we wash off the remnants of the solution with plenty of water;
We connect electrode No. 2 to the wire and moisten the electrode swab in solution No. 2;
With light, uniform movements of the electrode, we apply solution No. 2 over the entire working surface until the surface of the cleaned metal darkens and becomes more matte.
For applying a durable protective layer up to 15 microns thick, 2-3 minutes is enough. The whole process is well shown in the video below.
VIDEO
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Of course, the most correct and cardinal solution in the fight against corrosion would be to replace the entire part, however:
It happens that such a part cannot be obtained, or its cost exceeds reasonable limits, but you always want to save money;
Therefore, now we will figure out how to eliminate rust on a car body with our own hands;
There are several ways, and all of them are quite laborious;
Modern cars have a galvanized body, at least most;
This prevents corrosion from developing, however, with deep scratches, creases and chips, the protective zinc layer is damaged;
How do you make sure your car body is galvanized?
It is enough to study the passport data of your car;
Or very carefully scrape off the paint from an inconspicuous area of \u200b\u200bthe body, not forgetting to paint it over afterwards;
For a car, a stainless steel body is not produced, most likely the matter is in the cost of production, so the problem of rust remains relevant;
It is necessary to observe safety measures, use goggles and rubber gloves, when performing body work, to avoid contact with the body of chemicals.
If the body is affected by rust in several places, it is necessary to thoroughly wash these places with car shampoo before starting work, then:
After the case has dried, all problem areas must be treated with coarse-grained sandpaper, or use a metal brush;
It is not recommended to use a grinder, because the cleaning discs remove a layer of metal;
Only plastic-soled discs are suitable for this procedure;
With an abrasive wheel mounted on a drill, go through problem areas.
If the corrosion is deep, and even small holes have appeared, then they act in the following way:
With the help of a cone brush (more rigid is recommended) put on a drill, rust is removed from the car body
Attention: The use of abrasive wheels and a grinder is not allowed - you will simply burn the metal, after such a cleaning it will rot very quickly.
After stripping, you can confidently assess how deeply corrosion has penetrated. The cleaned place is blown with air from the compressor, then you need to put a spotlight or lantern behind the part;
If the body part is non-removable, then you should try to stick a light source in the back;
In places where holes appeared, luminous points will be visible when the external lighting is turned off;
Instructions on how to stop the corrosion of the car body are as follows:
The easiest way is to solder holes with ordinary tin solder;
To do this, you need a hammer soldering iron, soldering acid (rosin is not suitable here), POS-61 solder, a building hair dryer can also be useful to warm up the repair place when the soldering iron is not enough power;
Get a rust converter, you can't do without it.
Attention: Before starting work with a new soldering iron, you should irrigate the tip (its working surface).
Before starting work, the repair site with through corrosion should be cleaned of rust residues;
Because solder will not stick to a rusty surface;
The most important thing is not to be lazy when you are too lazy to mess around, then go back to the beginning, where it is recommended to purchase a new part;
To remove the remnants of rye, you will need a pointed file, or a piece of a hacksaw blade, or a knife with a sharp blade and abrasive skin;
Coarse sandpaper, (grain P60-80) pass through the rust center (if not brushed), this is how the surface layer is removed;
Then you should pick out the rust from the metal, which has already eaten;
To make the places clearly visible, you need to apply a rust converter with a brush and wait a couple of minutes;
The rust will darken and become clearly visible on bare metal.
The process is the most dreary and time-consuming;
You should constantly apply a rust converter to these places with a brush;
In this way, you wash off the rust that you have already picked out and see where you need to make extra effort;
After the place is cleaned, you can begin to service it;
Attention: When the diameter of through holes exceeds 2-3 millimeters, it will no longer be possible to fill them with solder, this method is suitable when through corrosion forms in the form of a fine mesh.
Apply soldering acid to the surface before it dries, you need to apply tin solder with a heated soldering iron over the entire cleaned surface, where corrosion holes already exist and may occur
To better stick tin solder, constantly grease the evaporating acid
When the body metal is thick and the power of the hammer soldering iron is not enough to heat the tin, then use an industrial hair dryer or a second soldering iron
Tip: Soldering should be done in the open air or in a ventilated room (or in a room with forced exhaust), since the evaporated acid is very harmful to the respiratory tract, and its smell is not pleasant.
Repair of corrosive damage to the body does not tolerate hack-work, the price of careless work is that the body will rust again and very quickly;
After completing the work, check again with the light if there are still through holes;
After the repair place is tinned and the corrosion centers are soldered, the treated surfaces should be cleaned of acid and the converter that could remain;
As a rule, they are washed with water, or with a mixture of gasoline and alcohol;
In order to increase the service life of the repaired body part, it is important to properly protect it from contact with the atmosphere;
On the tinned place of this body part, using a paint sprayer, apply acid primer, then, on top of it, acrylic primer, only after that you can putty the surface;
Important: Putty cannot be put on top of acid soil, therefore acrylic primer is placed.
If suddenly, when sanding the putty, you have rubbing to the metal - there is nothing to worry about, just blow it with acid soil again and cover the exposed places with acrylic;
When you finish restoring a rusty car body, you should definitely protect the back of that repair spot as well;
Condition required! Otherwise, all the work done will go down the drain;
There are many ways to protect against corrosion, the main thing is to block the access of moisture and air to the protected place;
The first option is to prime the reverse side with acid and acrylic primers;
The second option is to apply a layer of good sealant, mastic or fill with Movil;
The choice of option will depend on the ease of access to the treated surface;
If you can’t crawl with a sprayer, try applying primer with a brush, then cover with Movil, for reliability, or a similar agent;
Now it is clear to you how to restore the car body from rust with small holes;
When a hole has already formed in the body, putty or soldering is indispensable here:
The easiest way here is to make and install a patch;
Of course, this method is suitable for holes with a diameter of no more than 5-7 centimeters, when the hole is larger, it is definitely necessary to replace the body element, or welding;
How to get rid of rust on a car body if holes have already appeared ?;
First, the damage site should be thoroughly washed, then cleaned, cleaned of rust, as described above;
After that, a patch is cut out a little larger than a hole, from thin metal, a tin can is suitable;
Now you need the same hammer soldering iron, with its help you have to tin the surfaces on the outside of the hole and the edge of the finished patch with tin;
As a flux, soldering acid, or its analogue, is used;
At the end, it will be necessary to solder the patch with a continuous seam, then the patch with a hammer must be precipitated;
Clean the protruding edges with coarse-grained sandpaper;
After that, cover the defective place with putty, primer and paint;
Body repair after rust can be done by welding;
The patch is carbon dioxide welded to the body, however, for this you will need a welding machine (or a welder with a machine), plus the skills of a welder;
Further processing as with the previous patch, cleaning the primer, putty, sanding the putty and painting;
Don't forget about the processing of the reverse side.
We wish you success in body work!
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The car body is the most expensive part of it.But the modern auto industry offers car bodies of such quality that the “first swallows” of decay can be encountered already during the first two years of operation.
One of the easiest ways to solve a problem, or rather, slow down its development, is to contact a specialized car service. There, they will perform an expensive cycle of removing through rust, from welding to applying a paint and varnish coating.
Is it possible to repair the body with your own hands, the rust that “ate” to the hole? A variety of tools and materials offered in car dealerships allows you to perform several ways to get rid of perforated body rust. They will cost less than professional repairs and take relatively little time.
Through corrosion of the body is completely eliminated in only one way - the complete replacement of the affected part. But this method is appropriate only in cases where the size of the affected area is more than 10 cm in diameter. Experienced body repair masters believe that with the right approach and the use of special materials, holes up to 8-10 cm in size are repaired.
To perform such work, you will not need special expensive tools, but minimal manual skills will not interfere. Every caring car owner is interested in how to repair through corrosion of a car without resorting to replacing body parts.
There are several ways to solve this problem, namely:
Welding - a local approach to the fight against through rust, which implies the presence of special welding equipment and experience with it;
Patch - or "solder" - soldering a suitable piece of metal with a soldering iron and tin solder;
Grid - building up the missing fragment of the part using a special grid. Works in conjunction with fiberglass and epoxy resin.
Fiberglass - a special fiberglass putty and special material is required to create a multi-layered rigid surface.
Putty - this method is effective only when using a substrate on the back of the part and long-staple automotive putty.
Riveting is an outdated method and requires a special tool (riveter) or a hammer and rivets.
A special aluminum patch mesh is used as the main material, or a similar non-professional mesh with a small section is selected. Nowadays, you can get by with an ordinary household plastic, metal or fabric mesh.
Several suitable pieces are being prepared. By stretching one of them from the inside of the part and shaping the missing part, the mesh is attached using masking tape. Epoxy resin is applied layer by layer on the mesh.
Each layer should dry well. So you need to repeat with the next piece of the grid. And so we close up until a hard surface is obtained.
From this material, you can make not only a fragment, but the whole part. The sequence of actions is the same as with the mesh (the rust hole on the car body is sealed), but using fiberglass. In fact, the frame of the missing element is being created.
It is possible to remove body corrosion only if a certain sequence of actions in this process is followed. Despite the variety of do-it-yourself corrosion repair methods, a motorist should know what to do with through corrosion of the body at the beginning of work. The complexity of the work itself will depend on the general condition of the car body.
To begin with, it is necessary to clean the surface subject to corrosion so that there is a clean piece of metal without traces of corrosion. If it is not possible to do this carefully, then the damaged fragment is cut out.
In each option for repairing through corrosion, all cleaned areas are covered with acid or epoxy primer.
From a suitable piece of metal (for body repair of through corrosion, metal with a thickness of 0.8 mm is needed), a patch is made 2-3 mm larger than the through hole. If possible, the patch is applied on the reverse side of the body part, and with the help of welding it is scalded with dots along the contour from the front side.
In no case should you weld with a continuous seam, so as not to lead and tighten the metal.
Welding points are cleaned flush with the repair area. It turns out a depression, which is then leveled with automotive putties.
The principle of operation is the same as for welding, but instead of metal 0.8, tin is used (for example, cut out from under a tin). The patch is cut out a little more than the repair place. With the help of a powerful soldering iron and tin solder, the patch is soldered with a continuous seam.
The protruding soldered area on the car can be slightly drowned with a hammer, but this will complicate further work with putty, so care and accuracy must be observed.
For such repairs, only special automotive fiberglass putty is used. Starting from a large (starting) and ending with a small (finishing) fraction. To do this, you will definitely need a substrate (for example, a piece of abrasive skin).
Work surfaces must be degreased and primed with acid or epoxy primer and allowed to dry. After priming, the putty will be applied in layers. For adhesion of materials, they put at risk with abrasive sandpaper (H 120-150). The surface is degreased again and putty is applied in a thin layer.
Each layer is thoroughly dried from 30 minutes to several hours, depending on the thickness and air temperature. The dried putty is rubbed with an abrasive, smoothing the boundaries of the resulting halo.
The result is a flat surface for applying primer and paint.
The thickness of the automotive putty layer should not exceed 2 mm. Thicker layers will cause the material to crack.
Whatever method of repairing through corrosion of the body is carried out, cosmetic painting work will definitely be needed to complete it. This includes layering the repair surface with several types of automotive fillers.
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Each layer is dried and rubbed with abrasives. After that, the surface is primed with epoxy primer, then with leveling. After that, a paint coating is applied.
Painting a car or its parts requires special skills, so it is best to entrust it to professionals.
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Through corrosion is a critical defect. Not only the appearance and reliability of the car, but also the safety of its owner depends on the condition of the body. Therefore, it is advisable to regularly inspect the body and perform preventive anti-corrosion treatment.
