DIY rusty wing arch repair

Welcome to blog my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2102!

Let's talk about replacing the rear arches of the car. Rear arches on some car models are a weak point, easily corroded. There are options when you can "cure" rust without changing the arches, but, as a rule, the owners of cars pull until the last, when drastic measures are needed. The need to replace the rear arches arises, as a rule, due to their through corrosion. In such cases, all that remains is to cut off all the rusty metal and weld in its place a new, non-rusty segment. How to do this, and what subtleties you need to take into account. Let's take a look at everything in detail.

First, we need to define the boundaries of the corroded area. To do this, you need to clean off the old paintwork in a place where rust is visible. An autopsy, as they say, will show what's under the paint. It is necessary to clean it, with a margin retreating from the zone with corrosion to the zone with normal metal. An autopsy usually reveals that there is much more rust than meets the eye.

Next, we need to cut off all the corroded metal. We use the "grinder", we cut everything down to pure metal. After the rusty segment has been cut off, the reverse side of the remaining intact metal should be checked as far as possible. Why do we need this? It so happens that the front part of the part does not contain corrosion, but on the reverse side everything is much sadder. Usually you just have to enlarge the cut area a little in order to weld the repair segment to the good metal on both sides.

Cut out segment of the rear wing Arch self-made from sheet metal

Further to us you need to take a repair insert somewhere for welding and restoring the arch. Here you can choose the following options:

1. Take the desired segment from the donor's rear wing.
2. Take the required part from the new repair panel for the rear wing (if there is one on sale for the car model being repaired).
3. Cut the desired segment from sheet metal (usually from an unnecessary body panel). It all depends on what shape you need the segment. If a large part of the arch with complex shapes, edging was cut, then of course it is better to take and cut out a similar part from the donor's wing. Again, it depends on the cost of the rear wing of a particular car. Despite the complexity of the shapes, it is also possible to bend the desired segment from, for example, an unnecessary hood. If a complex shape does not work out, then you can make a segment of several simpler ones by welding them together.
4. Another option is to take the desired segment from a new or used front wing. In most car models, the front and rear fenders are similar in shape. The front wing is usually cheaper and easier to find than the rear wing. Thus, we take the desired “piece” from the front wing and adjust it to the rear one.

Welding a homemade arch New renovation arch The front fender is similar in shape to the arch of the rear fender.

How do I cut a sheet metal patch to the desired shape?

You can apply this method. Take a cardboard, lean it against the cut area and the borders of the cut area will be printed on it.Now you can cut a stamp out of cardboard along these boundaries, and use this stamp to cut out the necessary patch from metal. It is better to slightly increase the borders on the metal being cut out, since it will need to be welded with an overlap.

Welding the repair insert

The next step is to weld the repair insert. When welding, you must not overheat the metal. It is better to weld with dots, starting from one end of the patch, then weld with a dot on the other side and at intervals, then decrease the interval. The point is that the metal doesn't lead too much.

After welding, you need to clean the seam from oxides and grind the weld seam.

Weld seam protection

Next, you need to protect the seam from corrosion. One option is an epoxy anti-corrosive primer. After the soil has completely dried, you need to grind it without rubbing it to the metal, then you can apply a putty.

The back of the weld is also important to protect. For this, you can use anticorrosive primers in aerosol cans. The most important thing is to get to the back side. If there is no access, then you can use a can with a long tube and a nozzle on it. One of these variants is "Movil". Very comfortable design. You can crawl into a hidden cavity by inserting a tube into a small hole. Movil is not the best option for protecting against corrosion, but the nozzle tube can be adapted to any other protection in an aerosol can.

Then you can proceed to the final removal of the putty, priming with acrylic primer, preparation for painting and the actual painting.

This material will help you learn more about how to repair a car and remove corrosion from it yourself.

We see what a simple spray paint application to an improperly prepared surface can lead to. After a while, such painting will manifest itself in all the subtleties. The type of car, in this case, will be far from bright.

Usually, corrosion begins to manifest itself at the points of contact between parts. It seems that in our case everything was covered with soil, but all the same, corrosion penetrated right through. This confirms that the surface preparation technology has not been fully followed. At the same time, you can immediately see the difference in the places where they were covered with epoxy primer, there is no rust here.

In those places where there are holes, for example, as in our case, on the arches above the wheels, there is no point in cleaning or trying to restore them. Such parts just need to be replaced. If you want to digest something, then you need to do it in a place that has suffered the least from corrosion.

It will be interesting to consider corrosion in detail. This is how the local place of its manifestation on the wing looks like. A defect arose in the center, which became the place from which this surprise began to grow for every motorist. We have opened such a place and will try to figure out what's inside. You can see a lot of sand, salt and other substances. It's amazing how through such a small hole, the defect we talked about above, so much dirt gets inside.

Let's also try to consider another defect in a higher resolution, which in our case is a scratch. You can see that sand has already started to get under the varnish and under the ground. In fact, the scratch looks small, but we saw that the very same corrosion has already begun to appear in it.

Why do we consider in such detail the causes of occurrence and the defect itself in the form of corrosion? This, in fact, is a rather interesting question, because before starting work, you need to understand what corrosion is and then we will better understand how to deal with it.The main reason for its occurrence is salt and sand, which got inside this center and which retain moisture.

We have removed a wing that will help us explain the causes of corrosion. On the wing, we see corrosion at the point of contact with another part. Often its spread is due to the usual laziness to remove and process the wing. The second option is that the wing can still be removed, treated with soil, covered with paint, like the work has been done.

But after a month or two, corrosion begins to appear again. In this case, the assumption arises that either the materials were summed up, or the work was performed poorly. But in fact, the reason is different: you can see that corrosion begins to show through from the inside.

And now you can imagine, if we looked in an enlarged view of one small bubble and saw how much dirt there was in it, then in the place where there is constant sandblasting from the wheels (you can even see how much sand was in the wing), how much dirt can accumulate there. Therefore, before starting to process the front part of the wing, it is always necessary to first of all be sure to process the source of corrosion.

Before working with the welding machine, you need to disconnect the power supply, that is, the battery. The problem we have is this, we need to heal the arch covered with corrosion.

First of all, we clean everything with an emery machine and cut out the damaged area with a grinder.

After the damaged area has been cut out, we treat everything with acid so that there is no more corrosion. We make blanks, cut out patches. Made of food grade stainless steel 0.8 thickness.

We scald from the inside and cover with baxitic soil. Carefully, even under the seams.

If it is not convenient for you or it is difficult for you to make a patch in diameter, you can use cardboard for this. Apply and press down around the perimeter of the cutout. You will have a trace, cut and apply to the metal to cut a patch according to your cardboard layout.
For in-depth processing, you will also need a Movil, a hose with a spray nozzle in all directions.

After all the treatments, take the first patch and insert its hole where the cut was. In order to be able to calmly control the patch, it is necessary to weld on an unnecessary screwdriver or a metal rod.

Due to the fact that you weld it to the patch, it will give you the dignity not only to regulate it, but also to press it tightly to the metal. And so we weld on all the patches.

Then it is necessary to clean everything up so that the plane is even and during painting everything does not stick out. We clean with a grinder and then go through with a special iron brush for a grinder.

With a brush, we clean everything inside the seams so that there are no deposits and in the future it does not oxidize and does not become covered with rust. And to be sure, we go through the circus again.
Next, you need to take 120 sandpaper and apply risks. After applying the marks, it is necessary to degrease everything.

After it dries, cover with baxitic primer. As the primer dries well, reapply the risks with 120 sandpaper. Then we apply a thick layer of putty.

Apply the putty tightly under the seam, and tightly without air. After sanding with a die, so that it is exactly without pits.

Degrease again before applying with the universal filler.

We apply a universal putty and on the applied risks from 120 sandpaper and on the remaining unfinished work, pores, align the edging.

We are waiting for the putty to dry and proceed to sanding. We will sand 240 with sandpaper. At the end, if pores remain, we re-pass it with putty and sand it.

Then we apply several layers of primer, let it dry for 5 minutes between the layers.

The end we will have is painting, paint over by color, and your arch is ready.

Oleg, hello! Please tell me if I will do the right thing ... Three small holes have formed on my door (under the factory vibration isolation everything is completely rusty and as a result 3 holes, the car is 3 years old, Kalina2).I want to tin them, cover them with epoxy primer, then putty with a finishing putty, prime them with a regular primer and paint over everything. Tell me, will I do it all correctly in stages?

Hello. Can you please tell me how you missed the net?

The method is of course a working one, but by welding it can be done 100 times faster in labor costs.

here we are not talking about labor costs, but about reliability and the fact that not everyone has welding

Who repairs such things, those who have it)))

Epoxy would not be better?

Uncle Olezha, everything is fine, but the lack of students' workwear is striking.
A guy from Makhachkala comes straight in a weekend jacket to the garage

no guys in a robe go to and from work

Interesting and useful video, among other things, like everyone else! Can you use this method on the doors in the corners?

Many Premasya owners and others are familiar with this problem. Like any disease, it is easier and cheaper to treat it at the initial stage, avoiding the appearance of through holes. Otherwise, a donor organ transplant in the form of a wing patch will be required. Let's assume that everything is not so bad with us and it looks something like this:

True, this is a 2005 Corolla. - European, but the essence is the same. Let's see what can be done, if there is a desire, a warm room and a compressor with a spray gun, but there is no money or it's a pity))). If anyone is not interested in the secrets of body repair, you can go straight to the end, where you will find out how you can protect the arch from corrosion.
So, we take a drill with a wire disk and clean off the swollen paint, carefully look so that there is no rust left under the paint, otherwise these places will then rise:

You can then clean especially rusty places with a grinder, but be careful - the metal is weakened and it is easy to make a hole. We clean the transition of paint to metal with a sandpaper, so that there is no sharp difference in height. The transition is processed correctly if the layers of primer and paint are consistently visible:

To speed up the process, you can first take a coarser skin - grain 80, then go to 120 and finish 240, going over the area with each subsequent abrasive a little further than the previous one. At the same time, keep in mind that the risk of a rougher 220 will not close with soil, so do not climb far to it. The rest of the surface is matted with 600 sandpaper. It is more convenient to work with water with a fine sandpaper, so that the abrasive does not clog, so after that it is necessary to dry thoroughly with prof. a hairdryer, especially caverns from corrosion, can be heated up to 60-80g, the paint is not afraid of this. We wipe the surface with a napkin with a degreaser and putty. The main mistake of beginners when puttingtying is that they smear it with a thick layer in the hope of then cutting off the excess with a sandpaper. It will be correct to apply 3-4 layers in succession, gradually approaching the shape of the surface, it should look something like this:

On top of the ground, apply a thin layer of a developing layer of any dark paint, conveniently from a spray can. The dried soil is rubbed with 600-800 sandpaper with water, the developing layer will show if there are defects. The rest of the part is matted with water, sandpaper 1000 and then Scotchbrite. The result is a smooth matte surface:

We paste over, degrease, wipe with a sticky cloth from dust and can be painted.
A few words about paints. I do not advise you to consider cans in principle. And not only because the color does not match, such enamel does not protect the lower layers from moisture poorly. Therefore, it is better to take paint on the selection of car enamels. I will reveal one of the most secret secrets: no colorist can match a color 100%. It is believed in narrow circles that 70-80% of color matching depends on the colorist, the rest depends on the art of the painter. He will make a test paint, if necessary, paint the paint. A good painter will never paint end-to-end parts, a transition is made to the old paint, so often instead of one part, you have to paint two or even three. In this case, I had to paint the entire wing, make the transition to the door and bumper:

As a result, there will be no discoloration even under artificial lighting. Have you met, probably, cars that look normal during the day, and under a lamp in the evening, as if parts from different cars?

Corrosion of the arch begins with damage to the edge by small stones flying from the wheel. So that after the first winter the rust does not climb again, it is necessary to protect this place. We buy elastic bands to protect the lower edge of the doors for VAZ-08. Cutting off the excess:

We coat the edge of the wing with anticorrosive well on both sides and put an elastic band on it, once again we coat it from the inside of the wing so that the water does not get under the elastic band. Outside, we remove the excess with gasoline, you get this beauty:

What materials to use? I will say this, there are no frankly bad materials now, those that are more expensive allow reducing the repair time, it is more convenient to work with them, and the quality mainly depends on the efforts and skills. A typical representative of budget materials is NOVOL. Provided the technology is followed, it provides quite sufficient quality:

Here is such a repair, nothing too complicated, go for it!

A very sad surprise awaited me after winter! All sills, arches and door corners in rust. Mazda 6 has always been famous for its rotting, so I was ready for this.

And now the long-awaited vacation, and I got out into the garden to remove these "mushrooms"

When I started to remove the paint, I realized that the previous owner had already made arches, since there was a layer of putty. I removed it all with a screwdriver with an iron "brush"

The batteries are small, so it took almost 2 full batteries.

Next, we use a brush to figure out the rust converter with zinc, after 30 minutes we moisten it with water and leave it for an hour. The metal became “pure” without a reddish color, and the rust itself darkened

Scotchbright matted the whole wing

a little rain went down, put the umbrella.

Putty with fiberglass sealed holes and severe irregularities

I covered all the bare metal with an ordinary putty and wiped it off.

Such irregularities must be re-covered with putty and rubbed, they are very noticeable under the paint

degreased surface and applied 3 coats of primer. Interlaminar drying about 10-15 minutes

And that's what I was talking about, irregularities appeared

I rubbed them with sandpaper and primed again. Not perfect but it will do!

I rubbed the surface with scotchbrite to remove excess primer and smooth out the transitions.

Degreased and applied the first coat of paint. I took the paint in the special. store, there, according to those passports, they punched a number and mixed paint right into the bolonchik.

We wait until it dries, about 20 minutes and apply 3 layers of varnish with an interval of 10-15 minutes. Ready.

This is my first experience in bodywork, so by no means take this post as a lesson! A lot of jambs turned out, the varnish dripped a little and the putty must be rubbed to the IDEAL! I would be glad to hear some advice from the experienced! Thank you all for watching! 🙂

Damn, well, at least one in the branch has a sensible idea.

Also the first thought was this. If you're lucky, you can find good options on all sorts of Avito. Two years ago I was looking for the right wing for an old e34, bought on Avito from my hands for 200r (!) From a guy, though red, but absolutely intact. I almost didn't take an ancient Opel from him in the bargain for 20k, but there was no time to fiddle with it)

How much dust has settled while you were painting, author? it was not necessary to paint in the garden, but in a closed garage.

if in your city there is such a car on showdowns, it is better so. But there are situations when you get a horseradish and bring it from somewhere is simply not profitable.

Now I already think that it would probably be easier on the same disassembly to immediately take the “long” hood and fenders and not take a steam bath.

short wing for nine could not find? O_o, almost every body shop in our city has it, or they can bring it to order. Although you can solve it a little easier, you buy 2 long fenders and file the corners on the plastic "muzzle", the hood is preserved and all the rules, my dad did this at 94 back in '94 on the 8th of 87, that you were almost like a modern one.

hmm. have survived, for domestic cars, spare parts are stamped by the Turks, here it is a bright future.

The post says that Mazda 6 is famous for its rotting. Most likely on disassembly everything will be the same rusty.

a wing for 6 costs 1730 new SAT, it is easier to buy and paint it than to wear it out in this way

yes in the first one they can offer it for 20, spent 1.5 minutes, found a wing in Krasnoyarsk for 1730 forever wooden =)) naturally new

and took and put, here the other day they changed the iron on a fresh auris, almost everything is perfect, the quality has grown significantly lately

in with z and in and s and t about t about t about and where, where is s erected!

I have, for example, a bumper in the city dick you will find on showdowns. although there are many such cars in the city. it's easier for me to recover.

The bumper and headlights from Irkutsk to Voronezh cost me less than in Voronezh for dismantling.

Firstly, for example, I have 24 iron bumpers on the Volga, and secondly, on my 2nd Volga 31105 the bumper is plastic, but as it turned out in winter the snowdrift turned out to be stronger, as a result minus the bumper. Yes, I really love the Volga.

harsh northern conditions - even plastic bumpers rust!)

Why from America? There is also an all-producing China =) I myself ride a Dodge Stratus 2.4 2001 onwards, for my age there is only one door made of rust on the right side of the back, and then it was someone who rubbed it in with it well, and the hood is still in front ( there is some kind of silvery plastic insert, it rubbed off along the way). Here, too, I think to do a rust treatment such as in the post, tk. I see no reason to buy the whole door.

The most expensive thing is the lower front levers, tk. the heat ones are embedded in them. Otherwise, it is not very expensive if you have hands and a head.

For example, my rear fenders rot, but they are much more expensive and you will find hell on my car. budget version of the author

Problematic. This body rots badly.

So it is not the original you can buy. I have been driving with an unpainted Taiwanese wing for two years, no rye.

Considering that the Taiwanese one costs 1.5k rubles, in general, the idea of ​​restoring this wing with through rust makes absolutely no sense.

Well, yes, considering that these holes will appear again very soon.

For two months everything blows up, it's just money down the drain

The question of how to process the wheel arches of a car sounds no less relevant than, for example, the problem of choosing the car itself. It is no secret that some cars are subjected to minimized anti-corrosion treatment of the body during factory assembly.

What to say about used cars. After all, it is not known for certain how prudent the former owner was? And who wants the purchased car to rot in several seasons? Therefore, it is necessary to carry out additional processing, both of the entire body and the wheel arches in particular, as the place most susceptible to mechanical deformations and other incidents associated with damage to the body coating.

How to process the wheel arches of a car and how to do this work correctly? There are several ways how you can do it yourself. Let's start with the most important.

Any metal part may sooner or later start to rust. Moreover, the wheel arches, which take on mechanical damage from small stones and sand while driving. And in winter it contributes to deterioration and failure of coatings - a mixture that is sprinkled on our roads in slippery times. Therefore, anti-gravel treatment of the wheel arches of the car is one of the most optimal ways out of the situation.

Of course, you can contact the service for a solution. But you can try to do a similar procedure yourself, saving a certain amount of money. And besides, you will be as sure as possible that everything was done according to the rules, because you yourself processed the details.

Removing the wheel... We raise the car; for greater convenience, you need to tilt it a little more to one side. If there is no lift, use jacks and supports. But do so as to make it as convenient as possible to get to the processing sites.

Wheel arches can be dirty.Therefore, under the pressure of water, we wash off the growths and carefully (you can use a brush) to clean the strata.

When dry, we inspect the interior coatings for all sorts of flaws and rust. We treat the foci with a rust converter. We clean the rust, if any, with a metal brush attachment put on an electric drill (you can do it manually, but it will take much more time and effort). Finally, we grind these places with a nozzle with sandpaper using the same drill. Attention! When carrying out work, use protective goggles to protect your eyes from dust and pieces of rust flying in different directions.

We again process the foci with a rust converter. Wait a little and wash off with plenty of water. After that, we dry the wheel arches thoroughly (for this purpose, you can use a fan heater or hairdryer).

Then coat the surfaces with a nitro solvent... And then - with masking tape we glue those surfaces on which anti-gravel should not get. We wrap the suspension with polyethylene for the same reasons.

We apply the primer in several layers, letting each of them dry. You can take it in a bottle, or you can take it from a can - then we work with a wide brush.

Apply mastic to primed surfaces (also in several layers, letting each layer dry). We check that the anti-gravel cover covers all the required planes. After finishing work, dry thoroughly. We remove the plastic protection and tape. Put the wheel back and repeat the procedure on the other side of the car.

Problems with improving noise insulation exist, probably, in many cars. But if on flat surfaces usually sheet sound-absorbing material is used for these purposes, then here, on the wheel arches, it can no longer be used effectively to the full. How to process the wheel arches of a car? Liquid noise insulation of these spare parts is recommended for use.

What does it give? It has been noticed that part of the road noise penetrates into the car precisely through the unprotected wheel arches, making it difficult for sound gourmets to listen to high-quality audio systems. Therefore, it is recommended to use liquid insulation in order to reduce the quantity and quality of noise.

There are two types of it: applied to a primer and one that is applied directly to the cleaned surface.

Car owners often face a problem - the appearance of rust on the surface. There may be several reasons:

• the car is placed in an unheated garage in the winter;
• poor cleaning;
• violation of the general rules for caring for a vehicle.

Usually, corrosion forms on the underwing surface or in the lower part of the car. You can remove it by providing proper car care by contacting the detailing center.

You can read more about how to remove rust on a car body in this article. You will learn how and how to treat a car from corrosion with your own hands.

Rust on the fender of the car

Before removing corrosive damage, it is worth finding out the cause. There are five types of rust:

• cosmetic rust formed in areas of contact of car parts with the body (lights, moldings and a radiator grill);
• subfilm occurs in the lower part of the coating and is a pronounced defect (the paint turns into bubbles);
• through type formed in the final stage of corrosion - holes appear that spoil the metal;
• point damage destroys the inner layer of the surface of the car;
• rust stained can cover most of the vehicle body and wing, it is recommended to remove errors at the stage of their formation.

You can remove rust on the fender of a car with improvised means or use the services of specialists. Before holding such an event, you should take care of preparing the machine and buying the necessary tools:

• a sander will recoup the costs and help clean the body of the vehicle;
• sandblasting machine is the main tool in the fight against corrosion and its prerequisites. The car should be placed in a separate area, in order to avoid damage to the garage or other buildings, since the sand under the pressure of the apparatus can fly in different directions;
• the situation with a limited budget involves the purchase of a metal brush.

Rust converters

As a chemical, it is better to buy: rust converter, degreaser, putty, and anti-corrosion primer.

To ensure safety when removing defects on a car, special gloves should be used.

The appearance of rust is analogous to a virus - if you omit this problem, the car will soon deteriorate. Each vehicle has its own risk zone - the area of ​​the wheel arch liners - the first place for the formation of a corrosion defect. The main cause of problems in these places is considered to be excess moisture and oxygen. The underwing part of the arches collects a large amount of dust, which prevents the car from drying out. This causes the car to rust quickly.

Carrying out the restoration of metal is a laborious process, therefore, before removing the rust, you need to wash the car well. The next step is to remove the corrosive damage. There are several ways:

Remove rust with a sandblaster. The technique will clean the wing efficiently, penetrating into all metal sectors. The structure of the car's coating will not be disturbed and will retain its size in thickness. The device is directed to the damaged area and the corrosion is cleaned off with fine sand particles.

Removing rust with sandblasting
Grinding process with a power tool. This method can be carried out using a special machine. Thanks to the fast rotation of the disc, rust is removed without defects on the metal.

Removing rust by sanding
Hand grinding. The problem surface of the car is treated with a special brush or sandpaper. Craftsmen can use abrasive discs. This method is economical, but requires a lot of physical effort. With the help of a brush, the car is cleaned in hard-to-reach sectors.

Rust remover

Chemical processing of transport parts. You can start this procedure with the necessary chemicals. The best option is a rust converter, which is applied with a brush or spray. After these actions, the product should be absorbed into the surface of the car, then it is simply washed off with water.

The process of removing car rust from problem areas requires care from the owner. Fundamental rules:

• sanding should be carried out in small areas using ordinary sandpaper. The requirement will avoid damage to the paint and varnish surface;
• periodically, anti-corrosion treatment of the bottom and other most vulnerable places of the car is carried out;
• you can restore the coverage of a car with means that have a good reputation and ask for help from trusted specialists;

Anti-corrosion agent

the resulting chips in the area of ​​the car body are immediately painted over. This will avoid the spread of rust around the entire perimeter;

diagnostics of the underbody and hard-to-reach places in the car should be carried out twice a month.

Based on vehicle operating standards, the owner can avoid corrosion and other machine malfunctions.

Repair of rusty car arches is a specialty of the professional network of car body stations. Trust us with your vehicle and it will leave us without the slightest signs of corrosion. Repairing rusty arches is inexpensive and you will love the result.

1. Removing rust up to 5 cm (from 985 rubles) + local painting (from 3.595 rubles)
2. Remove rust up to 10 cm (from 1.475 rubles) + painting with a transition (from 4.865 rubles)
3. Repair of rust over 11 cm (from 2.450 rubles) + painting of the part (from 5.780 rubles)

Repair of rusty fender arches on Mazda.What to do if the rear fenders are rusty? It is very expensive to change them. Professional repaired 2 corroded rear fenders

Actually the question in the photo. The problem is not only in an unaesthetic form, but also in the fact that the rear bumper began to fall off and the plastic protection mounts (inside the wing) fell out.
For some reason, only the rear fenders and rear door sills (on both sides) began to rust. In other places, even where there were scratches and rubbers, there is no rust.

The threshold is rusted through, the wing, it seems, is not yet through and through 🙂

The service said that "you can cook, just not with them, since there is a gas tank pipe nearby."

Nissan Almera 1.6 car (1999).
Any advice and suggestions would be appreciated.

I can offer you to do everything according to your mind for 20,000 rubles. with local painting
such is the New Year's version

but I do not advise you to engage in sculpting, and the view will not be the same, and the reliability is not up to par

"New Year's version" - I meant the price is more correct, of course, to buy repair kits for arches and weld them
then paint professionally
it is absolutely not necessary to remove the tank for this, it is enough to disassemble the filling neck
it would be easier to describe the procedure in more detail with a live examination of the damage

I offer you this option)

if you want for ages, replace it with a piece from disassembly. A piece of threshold + wing arch (wing) will cost 3000-7000r.

Replacement will cost us 7000r.,
repainting will cost us 4000r.

Finding a part is a matter of one day, we are ready to find it according to the data of the car: year of manufacture, modification

Well, for 5 years - this is practically "for centuries" any "popier-mache" will not last 5 years,

but if you digest - everything will be super like new

Buy and weld repair arches. They are not expensive.

Price of work for 1 wing = 3,500 rubles. (tin) + painting of the wing and opening = 7 500 r.

On 11-year-old 2105, I did the following.In addition, there was such a hole:

First, you need a warm garage (in winter). Now about the process.

1. With a drill with a crown-shaped metal brush, we completely remove the rust to something like this:

By the way, on the other side of the car it was more similar to your case, here is the result of cleaning:

2. Now we take fiberglass (some people use nylon stockings, but I will not recommend it), cut it out so that it repeats the contour of the cleaned "hole" with an allowance of 1-2 centimeters. Degrease the surfaces around the "hole" with alcohol.

3. We smear the glass cloth with a special automotive epoxy glue (two-component stinking rubbish in cans), stick it in place of the hole, smooth it out. There is no need to try to achieve the desired shape right away - the main thing is that the glued fabric is not "curved" outward from the original body profile.

4. After three hours we look at the result. If the fabric is strongly bent, repeat the procedure over the glued layer. The second layer will smooth out easily. When gluing the second layer, try to give the fabric such a profile so that after applying a minimum of putty.

5. We are waiting for three hours until it dries. Then we take a two-component putty and make a batch. Without thinking twice (otherwise it will harden), apply the mass with a spatula over the glued fiberglass in such a way as to recreate the original geometry of the place to be repaired. Along the edges of the fabric, you need to "go out" with a putty on the metal so that the edges of the fabric can be seen well.

6. The next day we pick up a drill with a nozzle-circle, on which a delicate skin is fixed. We sand the surface in such a way that it becomes almost smooth and that the transition from putty to the metal of the body becomes minimally noticeable (do not sand it to fiberglass - it will only get worse).

7. Wipe and degrease the surface, apply a primer (using a spray can at a distance of 30-40 cm) in two layers. Take a break for 20 minutes between layers. After a couple of hours after priming, we take a can of paint and apply this very paint to the place being repaired.

motivation is not right.I have never heard that a part of the part would be replaced with plastic. Only the whole part.

If you think a little, it is quite obvious that a welded joint of two metal sheets is somewhat more reliable than gluing. even if it's a highly advertised poxipol. It seems to me that rivets will be even stronger than epoxy / polyester glue.

I don't know what kind of special automotive resins, I divide them into epoxy and polyester. The former seem to be stronger, the latter seem to harden faster. Epoxy is typically advised to be processed no earlier than 24 hours after mixing. Polyester "rises" an order of magnitude faster.

Next: "When gluing the second layer, try to give the fabric such a profile,"
Don't do that.
The fact is that when gluing fiberglass, resin plays the role of only a binder, but not a forming material. Therefore, there should be a minimum of resin, only for impregnating the fiberglass (I pasted the bumper last time - in the absence of fiberglass, I used a painter's bandage, a kind of airy synthetics), but not for the formation of volume. Resin, in general, is itself a fragile substance, therefore, in fiberglass it is not so much resin that "works" as a filler.

It makes sense to bend the desired surface from something before applying the first layer of "fiberglass", with a margin of several layers. For a piece of a bumper, I bent it corny from the inside out of a metal mesh from the nearest construction market. Grid with a square 5x5mm. And on it there are several layers of the specified material impregnated with epoxy. After a day, you can grind (although the resin is fragile, but strong, it is better to grind with a machine, I walked "into black" with a cleaning disc on a grinder. irregularities, and then aluminum or something like that.

but I agree with previous speakers that such a "repair" is advisable for sale. It's better for yourself, after all, to weld the patch. either by cutting out from the donor, or by adjusting the sheet pieces with the subsequent removal of the surface of the putty. With non-crooked hands, it will be more reliable and more durable than epoxy patches.

Yes, by the way, there is another "home option": cut out the damaged pieces, but not weld the patches, but solder them.

and a few photos:
about the form for gluing: (the screws are subsequently unscrewed, traces of them are plastered)

about patches: on the left in the process (what was almost absent, traces of seams are visible), on the right the result (do not pay attention to the white balance, the color is black. 🙂

a year and a half has passed until (ugh * 3) there are no holes.

shl. the thresholds and boxes were completely amputated. 🙂

ps. about the gas tank. they just didn't want to go to the service. On the Volga, they made me a rear fender and a fender liner, the gas tank was banally removed for the time of welding, and the pipes were taken to the side.

Look for a less snazzy service that will remove the gas tank and find a donor for disassembly.

Well, I'll take it on, because I did it only "for myself" once without experience and knowledge.

Since then, by the way, the car has been going through its second winter (now with a new owner) and these places do not give themselves away.