If you have firmly decided that rewinding the subwoofer speaker is not a problem for you, then prepare the following materials and tools:
Not everything is as simple as it seems, self-repair of a subwoofer car, painstaking work:
VIDEO
To prevent the coil from rubbing against the magnetic system, we need to set a uniform circular gap:
For this purpose, paper cut into strips is suitable.
We insert it in a circle (where possible) between the body and the coil, thereby obtaining a uniform gap
We check for the absence of jamming and engagement by moving the diffuser gently up and down by hand
We insert pieces of paper between the coil and the body
Then we glue the suspension of our speaker and carefully insert it into place
Give the pieces time to dry.
Then you can pull out the centering papers
You need to check again for jamming.
When everything is in order, put a layer of glue
Dry and put the finished subwoofer in the car for testing
Don't forget to lower the volume by half.
Subwoofer rewind completed
The device is almost the same, except that the dimensions are larger, microcircuits, or capacitors can be in a different order:
Let's take a closer look at the voltage converter, power supply and amplifier
The ceratec subwoofer amplifier is usually two-channel, but two channels are connected to one single dynamic head
At the same time, each channel in the amplifier amplifies a different sound frequency, low and medium, as a rule
In addition, modern amplifiers, almost all, operate on a single chip from the TDA series.
To get more power at the output of the amplifier, twelve volts from the on-board network of the machine is not enough; for powerful microcircuits, the supply voltage is from 40 volts
Therefore, in the subwoofer circuit b w there is a built-in high-frequency converter that converts the voltage of 12 volts into the voltage necessary for the normal operation of the amplifier
In the figure, we divided the entire scheme into three main blocks. A1 - control of the equalizer, it fails extremely rarely, you need to try to break it, we will not devote time to it, it changes entirely
A2 is a voltage converter, and A3 is a power amplifier. Let's focus on A2 and A3.
Slightly enlarged diagram
The voltage, through the filter, comes to the capacitor C1, from there it is fed to the transistor switches VT1 and VT2
Transistor keys are controlled by a high frequency signal generated by the DD1 chip
The amplified signal from the transistors VT1-VT2 comes to the transformer T1, where the voltage turns from 12 Volts to 40 Volts
Moreover, the secondary winding of the transformer consists of two windings, a rectifier consisting of two diodes is used for rectification. To unload these diodes, two more diodes are installed in parallel with them.
Each of the microcircuits DD2 and DD3 is powered only by its own diodes
Capacitors are installed to smooth out high-frequency pulses, marked C2 and C3
Converter A2 ends here, then comes power amplifier A3
Modern amplifiers consist of a single microcircuit
At its input, in order to obtain normal output parameters, a signal of a certain magnitude must be present
The designers of this subwoofer decided that not every car radio would have enough power, or rather the strength of the output signal from the primary amplifier, to get the nominal output parameters
Therefore, a transistor was added to amplify the signal in front of the microcircuit input, in the DD2 and DD3 circuit
Here is a list of the main radio components that fail most often
It happens that for the replacement of one capacitor the price in the workshop will be considerable, but the work is cheap
Therefore, it is better to check the whole scheme yourself before paying without looking.
Additionally, I recommend watching the repair video.
Good day!10MAS-1M :subwoofer Defender Blaze 50 :
Is it possible and how to connect? and then something does not play (
I thought you had a technical background. And, judging by your last questions, the existing knowledge may not be enough. How about leafing through some popular book on radio engineering?
Of course, I can describe everything step by step, but you can’t foresee everything. Some points are taken for granted (but not for you) and I can miss them.
For example, I recommended that you take measurements on a problematic microcircuit (in the channel where there is no sound), and you, as I understand it, do not even know how to calculate it. But this is a very simple task. You can, for example, ring the “hot” output of the socket going to the problem column with the 4th leg of the microcircuit with an ohmmeter. You can also find this connection visually.
So, I should start by explaining how to use the measuring device, then talk about the preferred shape of the probes and safety precautions so that after these measurements something does not burn. You need at least some basic knowledge and minimal experience.
Don't think that I refuse to help. It's just that we also have our own Hippocratic oath: "Do not make it worse than it was."
The common wire, the one that is marked with the “case” icon, is the one that is located between the capacitors C1 and C2, and is also connected to the “cold” wire going to the load (speaker).
The old Defender Blaze 20 speakers fell into my hands. Of course, their sound is not for serious listening to music, but I didn’t need them for that either. I used them this summer for background musical accompaniment of garden work. I live in the village, from spring to autumn you are more often on the street than in the house. And not only for work, sit in the gazebo, cook a barbecue, chat with friends. Taking acoustics out of the house for this period is not an option, so I adapted these speakers.
The power of this 2.1 system is not great: 25W. But this was quite enough, though at maximum volume the sound began to rattle, crackle.
Their subwoofer is built according to the scheme band pass , based on 4” speaker. The idea to remake it arose after I found a 5 ”speaker from the speakers from the music center. As a type of acoustic design, I chose a case with a phase inverter, as it is more affordable to manufacture.
It is worth considering that I am just an amateur, and this is my first experiment in making a subwoofer. This topic interested me very much, so I decided to start with a simple refinement. So to speak, "homemade" syndrome does not give rest. As far as I know, not only to me, but also to many members of the club of experts: someone upgrades the cases, doing modding, others are engaged in overclocking for sport, and a lot of other interesting things.
I did not calculate the case, I took as a basis the size of the native speaker, in which this speaker stood.
I dismantled, or rather broke the subwoofer case. It was glued from 5 mm fiberboard, often referred to as hardboard. The amplifier is assembled on two unknown microcircuits, to which tin heatsinks are glued and additionally soldered into the board. Transformer for 8.5V / 1 A.
First of all, I drew and sawed 20 mm chipboard, cut out all the necessary holes with a jigsaw. The dimensions of the case turned out to be 30x25x15 cm.
On the back wall, I attached a separate removable bar with stereo input connectors and speaker outputs. I built a timbre block into the same bar, on which there were volume and bass controls, and also attached a power button here.
I had to tinker with the hole for the power button, sealing it from the inside to avoid air whistling through the gap. I screwed the amplifier circuit and a transformer onto the back cover.
The assembly began with the front panel and side walls. I glued the “moment” with liquid nails and fastened it with self-tapping screws. Then I pasted over the inner walls with sound-absorbing material. After checking the performance of the system, I screwed it on, pre-lubricated with glue, the back cover.
Glued the phase inverter pipe. I cut out a rubber gasket under the speaker to ensure a snug fit to the hole.
As satellites, I first connected native Defender speakers, but then, for the experiment, I connected speakers from Edifier.With the same characteristics, they sound better, have vibration-damping material and a phase inverter.
The first inclusion of the system left a double feeling. Well, firstly, the volume of the buffer has increased. If the old one only hummed, mumbled and resonated, then this one is already singing. But with a maximum increase in the level of low frequencies, sound distortion, wheezing, appears.
In general, the subwoofer complements the sound of the satellites well, adding low frequencies to the overall sound picture. And the old one only spoiled the sound with its resonant hum, because of this I added bass volume on it only by a quarter. And all the sound was only due to the speakers.
The result is quite decent acoustics, which can be heard in the yard, on the veranda of the house, in the far corner of the garden, and even in the neighbors' yard.
Yes, as you probably already understood, the revision did not solve all the problems of the speakers, it is impossible to solve them only at the expense of the case. The quality of the speakers themselves, the amplifier, plays a very important role. But such a major upgrade will already require financial costs.
But, as they say: "The main thing is not victory ...",
I liked the process and the result, when you do something with your own hands, you get pleasure. I think to continue experiments in this direction. Perhaps this will be the completion of satellites and even the electronic part. And possibly passive speakers based on car acoustics.
To evaluate the result, I uploaded a video made on the Sony A65. Shooting from a distance of 2 meters.
VIDEO
Some moments of the work did not get into the frame, I was carried away and forgot to photograph, for example, there are no insides of the case after pasting with damping material.
I would be glad for any advice in the comments on improvements, as well as if someone shares their experience in this area.
Many motorists want to save on little things, so they are eager to learn how to repair a subwoofer with their own hands. At the same time, having little professional knowledge in this area, it is quite possible to repair the subwoofer at home with your own hands.
However, some actions to repair the Sven car subwoofer unit should be carried out exclusively in the conditions of an automobile center. By the way, you don’t have to carry a subwoofer if the amplifier, suspension, or one of the speakers is out of order in it.
The question of how to repair a subwoofer often arises among owners of not only automotive, but also other audio equipment, since no one wants to give up excellent acoustics.
You can carry out high-quality repair of car subwoofers by talking with professionals or by watching the corresponding video on Internet resources. At the same time, subwoofer repair is available to anyone who has a little free time, perseverance, and also owns a soldering iron or a tester.
It is worth noting that you can only repair a subwoofer by understanding its device and identifying the problem.
For example, in an ordinary home or car subwoofer, the following may fail:
The reasons that the amplifier or speakers fail, as well as other parts of it, include:
violation of heat exchange;
accumulation of dust or dirt;
no voltage at the output of the power unit;
swelling of capacitors;
lack of current on the power supply element of the block;
burned out transformer coil.
Moreover, all these problems are solved simply and easily, because:
the coil is rewindable;
really clean dust and dirt;
swollen capacitors are subject to replacement, which should be unsoldered and replaced with store-bought ones;
it is easy to seal the diffuser with adhesive tape, having previously smeared it with rubber-based glue.
If a person does not have the slightest experience in this repair or does not know how to handle a soldering iron, then he is simply obliged to turn to professionals, and certainly you cannot rewind the transformer coil, since you can ruin it forever.
The fact is that repairing a subwoofer amplifier is not difficult, but you won’t be able to deal with it without delving into the main features.
Starting to repair a car subwoofer, you should:
remove the amplifier from the vehicle;
unscrew the metal plates;
take a closer look at them, since the problem may be burnt or melted amplifier plates.
How to repair a Sven subwoofer if the amplifier plates are out of order? It is worth going to the car market and buying similar or more powerful records and a tube of thermal paste.
After that, the following actions are performed:
wipe all parts of the subwoofer amplifier with alcohol;
solder to the desired place of the plate;
smear everything with thermal paste;
assemble the entire structure back;
install on the car and check after a while.
In order to make a high-quality repair of the subwoofer speaker, you should decide what exactly to fail in it. To practice repairing the speaker, you should take the old speakers that are out of order, for example, BW PV1, Sven, Infinity.
Then you should disassemble the speaker and follow several sequential steps, including:
soften the glue that binds almost all parts of the speakers;
this can be done with a syringe with a needle and a high-quality solvent;
separate all the parts from each other, not forgetting the dust-type cap;
disconnect the diffuser suspension from the basket of the upper speaker;
separate the centering washer of the lower suspension, soaking it with a solvent;
wind the coil on a blank, and in two layers, using a thin wire.
By the way, an aluminum cylinder can serve as a frame for the coil. In this case, it is possible to rewind this coil with wires of increased cross section, however, its parameters should be close to the previous one. That is, if a wire was used for a burnt coil, the cross section of which was 0.45 millimeters, then an analog of 0.40 millimeters can be successfully used.
High-quality repair of the Sven subwoofer is carried out only after familiarization with its technical parameters, which are stated in the instructions, in order to determine the possibility of switching the phase, weight, diameter, output power, voltage, frequency range.
At the same time, before you repair a Sven home or car subwoofer with your own hands, you should understand that doing this will be much more difficult than fixing a breakdown in a BW PV1 or Infinity.
For example, in order to repair the amplifier of a car subwoofer, you will have to unscrew at least a dozen self-tapping screws in order to get close to the electronics and get a solid unit.
Most often, microcircuits and transistors fail on this model, including the TDA2030 type power amplifier, since it does not tolerate short circuits, increased load, overheating or dirt sticking.
Is your TV, radio, mobile phone or kettle broken? And you want to create a new topic on this forum about it?
First of all, think about this: imagine that your father / son / brother has appendicitis and you know from the symptoms that it is appendicitis, but there is no experience of cutting it out, as well as no tool. And you turn on the computer, go online to a medical site with the question: "Help cut out appendicitis." Do you understand the absurdity of the whole situation? Even if they answer you, it is worth considering factors such as the patient's diabetes, allergies to anesthesia, and other medical nuances. I think no one does this in real life and will risk trusting the lives of their loved ones with advice from the Internet.
The same is true in the repair of radio equipment, although of course these are all the material benefits of modern civilization, and in case of unsuccessful repairs, you can always buy a new LCD TV, cell phone, iPAD or computer.And to repair such equipment, at least you need to have the appropriate measuring (oscilloscope, multimeter, generator, etc.) and soldering equipment (hair dryer, SMD thermal tweezers, etc.), a circuit diagram, not to mention the necessary knowledge and repair experience.
Let's take a look at the situation if you are a beginner/advanced radio amateur soldering all sorts of electronic things and having some of the necessary tools. You create an appropriate topic on the repair forum with a brief description of the “symptoms of the patient's illness”, i.e. for example “Samsung LE40R81B TV does not turn on”. So what? Yes, there can be a lot of reasons for not turning on - from problems in the power system, problems with the processor, or flashing firmware in the EEPROM memory.
The purpose of this post is not any PR for repair shops, but I want to convey to you that sometimes self-repair can be more expensive than taking it to a professional workshop. Although of course it is your money and what is better or riskier is up to you to decide.
If you nevertheless decide that you are able to repair the radio equipment yourself, then when creating a post, be sure to indicate the full name of the device, modification, year of manufacture, country of origin and other detailed information. If there is a diagram, then attach it to the post or give a link to the source. Write how long the symptoms have been manifesting, whether there were surges in the power supply network, whether there was a repair before, what was done, what was checked, voltage measurements, oscillograms, etc. From the photo of the board, as a rule, there is little sense, from the photograph of the board taken on a mobile phone there is no sense at all. Telepaths live in other forums.
The format of your post should be as follows:
Topics with the title “Help me fix my Sony TV” with the content “broken” and a couple of blurry photos of the unscrewed back cover, taken on the 7th iPhone, at night, with a resolution of 8000x6000 pixels, are immediately deleted. The more information about the breakdown you put in the post, the more likely you will get a competent answer. Understand that a forum is a system of gratuitous mutual help in solving problems and if you neglect to write your post and do not follow the above tips, then the answers to it will be appropriate, if anyone wants to answer at all. Also keep in mind that no one should answer instantly or within, say, a day, no need to write after 2 hours “That no one can help”, etc. In this case, the topic will be deleted immediately.
If you decide to take your broken equipment to the nearest workshop, but don’t know where, then our online cartographic service may help you: workshops on the map (on the left, press all the buttons except “Workshops”). To the workshops, you can leave and view reviews from users.
For repairers and workshops: you can add your services to the map.On the map, find your object from the satellite and click on it with the left mouse button. In the “Object type:” field, do not forget to change it to “Equipment repair”. Adding is absolutely free! All objects are checked and moderated. Service discussion here.
Hello. The Chinese audio system 2.1 Defender Blaze 50 broke.
An autopsy showed that the amplifier was assembled on three TDA2030s. Visually, all components are intact, electrolytes are not swollen.
JLCPCB, 10 PCB prototypes for only $2 and 2 days delivery!
Good day, dear pikabushniks! This post will tell you how to fix the subwoofer if, for no reason, it started to buzz.
Our dear pikabushnik turned to me with a request “Bufik buzzed, can you fix it?”
One of the main problems in all amplifiers is the fight against interference. Most often they are struggling with interference from a 220-volt network. In the network 50 Hz, but with these just 50 Hz, they are network low-frequency interference. They basically fight with her as a hindrance, she then buzzes in the speakers. One of the ways how to “overcome” (significantly reduce) is to put “large” smoothing capacities in the power circuit. Most often, in transistor / integrated circuits, in the event of such noise, it is a failed power smoothing capacitance.
We remove the radiator and see that one of the containers not only swelled (in the photo on the right), but also tore off the contact pad.
It is better to replace the containers with a pair, so that due to the capacitance of the capacitors that has changed over time, you do not catch power interference.
It turned out that the capacitor was also depressurized, and the electrolyte dirtied the board.
Instead of the used "SamXon" brand capacitors, I decided to put capacitors that have not let me down "ECAP" yet.
We wash off the oxides with alcohol and solder.
Video (click to play).
Since the "new" capacitors have a slightly narrower output contacts, they do not fit tightly on the board, it's okay. The leads have been bent and the capacitors are firmly in place. The subwoofer is at home and no strong vibrational effects on the capacitors will be affected, they can be left without gluing with epoxy. We collect, check, everything works without noise.
