In detail: do-it-yourself solar-powered garden lamp repair from a real master for my.housecope.com.
Somehow, I bought cheap solar-powered garden lights, I took twenty pieces at once, but why waste time on trifles, especially at a cheap price.
The whole summer they stood in the garden and at night they were pleasing to the eye. But by the end of the summer, only half of them remained in working condition. The next year, the remaining half was again placed in the garden, by the end of the summer there was not a single working lantern left, all twenty pieces were covered, it's a shame.
And it was all the fault of water, in some lamps after disassembly there was nothing to take, on the boards all the tracks disappeared, oxidized and dissolved, even the legs of the LEDs dissolved, one plastic case remained, there was nothing to solder the wires to it.
Neighbors say throw them away and take others, but my “amphibian” turned out to be stronger, I decided to repair them all. Well, as much as I can. In general, during disassembly, not a single solar panel was working, corrosion did not spare anyone, well, I tried a little, in some places the wiring was accidentally torn off from the solar cells during their dismantling.
On some solar cells, there were no wires for the spine and all my attempts to solder the wire to the battery were unsuccessful, well, explain to me how you can solder the wire to the glass?
Let's start the recovery process, because the solar battery will come in handy in other crafts.
We get such a conductive glue, well, or you can use another one, not necessarily this one, as long as it conducts current.
Then solder the wires if there are any left.
On the plots, many summer residents have solar-powered garden lamps, mostly made in China, which are not very reliable.
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Video (click to play). |
Simple improvements can significantly improve the performance of such lamps.
Garden lights not only decorate the site, but also illuminate the paths, making evening walks in the garden safe. All garden lamps are divided into stationary and autonomous. The placement of stationary lamps on the garden plot is associated with a significant amount of work on laying the electrical cable and installing the lamps themselves. Yes, and their price is very high.
Stationary lamps on the site can be supplemented, or even replaced with stand-alone devices. They will be appropriate literally in every corner of the garden. Especially
Such lamps look spectacular if you place them around the perimeter of the reservoir and along garden paths. There are also autonomous garden spotlights, which are used to illuminate buildings and large ornamental plants.
Despite the variety of models of autonomous garden lamps, they are all assembled according to a typical scheme, which includes a solar battery, a battery, a voltage converter and an LED or LED module. Any of these nodes can be improved, thereby improving the performance of garden lamps - for example, brightness or duration of their operation.
For example, the Tower lamp (Fig. 1) is assembled on a DA1-ANA618 pulse converter (or its analogues - ANA608, Y801, Y8018). The pulse converter increases the voltage of the nickel-cadmium battery to the level necessary to turn on the HL1 LED. In addition, the converter monitors the voltage on the solar battery, and at dusk (when the voltage on the solar battery drops) turns on the lamp.The amount of current flowing through the LED, and, accordingly, the brightness of the LED, depend on the inductance of the inductor L1. In lamps from different manufacturers, a choke with an inductance of 68-82 μH is installed. With this inductance, the current through the LED does not exceed 12 mA, although the operating current for most low power LEDs is 20-30 mA.
To increase the current value (luminaire brightness), you should replace the standard L1 choke with a choke with an inductance of 33 μH. The current flowing through the inductor is very small. Therefore, you can use a choke of almost any design with a given inductance value (photo 1).
The old inductor should be unsoldered from the board and onto it. place to install a new one. If the board is welded to the body of the luminaire and deployed by the components inside the lantern, it is not necessary to dismantle it. It is necessary, using a desoldering pump, to remove the solder, and then remove the inductor from the board (photo 2).
Depending on the design, LEDs provide different brightness at a given operating current. For super-bright low-power LEDs, the brightness varies widely from 2 to 20 cd/m2 and higher. The garden lamp under consideration uses a flat-head LED, which, at an operating current of 20 mA, creates a luminous flux with a brightness of about 4 cd / mg. This is enough to illuminate an area within a radius of up to 1.5 meters. Simply replacing this LED with a super bright 20 cd/m2 5013UWC LED will dramatically improve garden light performance.
With an increase in the operating current and brightness of the LED lamp, the current consumed from the battery increases. It is necessary to install a nickel-metal hydride battery with a capacity of 1000 mAh instead of a regular battery with a capacity of 600 mAh, thereby significantly increasing the battery life of the lamp even in cloudy weather (photo 3).
It should be noted that AAA nickel-metal hydride batteries of various sizes are currently being produced: 1,000, 1,100, 1,350, 1,800 and even 2,000 mAh. The larger the capacity of the installed battery, the longer the lamp will work on a single charge.
Before buying a battery, be sure to check the voltage with a multimeter. For a nickel-metal hydride battery, the voltage at the electrodes does not exceed 1.3 V. For salt or alkaline batteries, the voltage at the electrodes is 1.50-1.57 V. Sometimes unscrupulous sellers under the guise of high-capacity nickel-metal hydride batteries sell salt batteries stylized as batteries .
In order for the luminaire to create uniform illumination, instead of one LED, you can install three at an angle of 120 degrees. The LEDs are connected in parallel to each other. Before installation, you should check the spread of their operating voltage, which should be minimal, otherwise only one of the three LEDs will burn brightly, and the rest will only glow dimly. A simple check is easy to implement by assembling a test circuit (Fig. 2). If LEDs from the same batch are used, they will glow with almost the same brightness (photo 4).
It should be borne in mind that the forward voltage drop for LEDs of different glow colors is significantly different (see table).
Therefore, when LEDs of different colors are connected in parallel, the one on which the voltage drop is less will light up.
The LEDs are located on a board with a diameter of 15 mm. PCB drawing, assembled LED module and solar garden light with this LED module are shown in photo 5-6.
You can make garden lamps that will burn in different colors - red, blue, yellow, green, white, purple. It is only necessary to select the appropriate LEDs. Preference should be given to super-bright LEDs, which, with the same operating current, have significantly higher brightness than conventional ones (photo 7).
Regardless of what color LEDs are chosen for the garden lamp, this color will be static, unchanged over time. A much more interesting effect can be achieved using a three-color LED with a built-in generator. Such LEDs are used in more expensive UFO lamps and ball-shaped pond lamps. Compared to ordinary garden lights, the cost of dynamic lights is 15-20 times higher!
Three-color LEDs with a built-in generator contain a microcircuit on one of the electrodes that controls the operation of an RGB matrix mounted on another electrode (photo 8). An LED has two terminals, a cathode and an anode. The anode lead is usually longer. A three-color dynamic LED is connected to the power supply through a current-limiting resistor. The operating current for such an LED is 20 mA. Dynamic LEDs must not be connected to a power source without a current-limiting resistor or apply reverse polarity voltage to them. The maximum reverse voltage of more than 0.5-0.75 V destroys dynamic LEDs.
Three-color dynamic LEDs come in fast fading and slow fading. The latter are most interesting for use in garden lamps. The color of their glow seems to flow from red to yellow, then to green, blue, white, orange and back.
Depending on the number of LEDs purchased and the place of purchase, the cost of LEDs varies markedly. So, a batch of 100 LEDs purchased on the radio market cost the author 10 rubles. apiece, and through the retail network, these same LEDs are sold at 55 rubles.
It is impossible to connect a tri-color LED with a built-in generator to a garden lamp instead of an installed white LED: it simply will not. work. And the reason is simple - the converter installed in: a garden lamp generates a rectangular pulse voltage with a frequency of 200-250 kHz (photo 9). Each new impulse restarts the generator built into the three-color dynamic LED, and for the normal operation of the generator, the impulse voltage must be converted to DC.
The easiest way for these purposes is to use a rectifier diode and a storage capacitor. The diode cuts off negative voltage surges from the converter, and the capacitor discharges in the pauses between pulses to the LED. Thus, from the alternating we get a constant voltage.
When choosing a diode and capacitor, preference should be given to surface mount components. It is highly desirable to install a Schottky diode, which has a minimum voltage drop of 0.12-0.14 V, and the operating frequency reaches hundreds of kilohertz due to the short charge absorption time. It is preferable to use a tantalum capacitor with a low equivalent resistance (photo 10). Under these conditions, the maximum efficiency of the rectifier is ensured.
The diagram of the lamp module is shown in fig. 4, printed circuit board for the module and three-color LED - in fig. 5, and the assembled module is in photo 11.
Since it is difficult to convey dynamic events within the framework of a magazine article, a series of photographs in photo 12 is shown to illustrate the operation of a garden lamp with a three-color LED.
Modernizing the garden lamp turned out to be a very simple task. You can decorate your garden with fantastic lighting based on commercially available inexpensive garden lamps, modified with your own hands.
Rice. 1. Principal lamp "Tower". Photo 1. Miniature inductors for surface mounting. Photo 2. Removing the throttle without dismantling the board. Photo 3. AAA batteries. Rice. Fig. 2. Schematic diagram of checking the brightness of the glow. Photo 4. LEDs of the same batch have almost the same brightness of the glow. Photo 5. LED module assembly. Rice. 3. PCB for three LEDs. Photo 6. Lamp with three LEDs. Photo 7.An example of superbright LEDs. Photo 8. Three-color LED with an RGB control matrix.
Repair and improvement of a solar-powered lamp - photo 2
Photo 9. Oscillogram of the impulse voltage generated by the converter. Photo 10. Tantalum capacitor. Rice. 4. Schematic diagram of the dynamic lamp module. Rice. 5. Printed circuit board of the dynamic lamp module. Photo 11. Dynamic lamp module assembly. Photo 12. Different phases of a dynamic lamp with a three-color LED.
The idea is simple to genius. Most importantly, it was spinning in my head, but it never came to practical implementation. Solar garden lights are very popular these days. Conveniently. During the day they charge and in the evening they illuminate the path in the garden or like my pond. But they have a big drawback. They don't live long. Mine also die under the streamer when I mow the grass. The dog loves to chew on them. Little grandchildren also break them regularly. Yes, and they are not very durable. Few of these lamps live a couple of seasons. And usually no more than one. I used to throw out all this scrap or put it away before I had an idea of what to do with them. And here it is:
DIY solar battery
It makes sense to try again. Now everything is easier when everything is told step by step. Thanks to the author.
Further from the author in machine translation. Saved for myself, but happy to share.
We are talking about a solar power plant made from recycled parts. This is a work in progress. It all started in a landfill where someone next to me was throwing solar lanterns off the 11 garden. I had 9 houses from a garage sale. I had an old frame and some plywood and paint. I had to buy 4 diodes from Radio Shaq. I started taking all the lights separately and using solar panels. I have saved circuit boards and LEDs for future projects. The plastic ball made a nice little capsule for the garden.
I painted the board with some old house paint. I soldered 5 pos in a row. for neg. I think 4 would be ok, I will know when I am done. Each set put out 22 volts in good sun.
I installed the cells with a little hot glue afterwards to solder the diode to pos. for each set and connect to one cable. Next, I entered all neg. one wire ends. I applied some hot glue over the solder joints to keep everything in place. I hot-glued the frame for everything leaving the bottom un-glued for a bit of ventalation.
First test. More than 22 volts on a winter day. Tried vertical and horizontal. I have no idea how many watts.
I cut out a piece of plywood and nailed and glued it to the sides. I cut them 60 degrees for Washington State.
I used hot cap balls [probably a mini greenhouse :)] in the garden.
An example of a successful do-it-yourself repair of corrosion-damaged solar cells of garden lamps is shown. The Secret of the Master thanks the author of Cosmogor for the provided instructions and a detailed master class on solar battery recovery.
Cheap solar-powered garden lights were purchased, twenty pieces were bought at once, the goods were cheap and working. The whole summer they stood in the garden and at night they were pleasing to the eye. But by the end of the summer, some of the lights stopped working. The next summer, history repeated itself, and by the end of the summer all the lights stopped working. It's a shame!
Analysis of the fixtures revealed the cause of the breakdowns. In view of the leakage of the solar cell fastening, water freely penetrated into the body of the flashlight, and the presence of constant voltage caused electrocorrosion and, unfortunately, a quick death of the electronics. In some flashlights, after disassembly, a very sad picture was observed, on the boards all the tracks disappeared, oxidized and turned into powder, the circuit was actually destroyed, and the legs of the LEDs were corroded to the plastic case, there was nothing to even solder the wires.
Of course, it’s easy to throw out the lamps, but a real master will try to restore with his own hands what can be used in further crafts. The most valuable thing in a garden lamp is a solar battery.
During disassembly, not a single solar battery was working, corrosion did not spare the metal. The photo clearly shows how the metal coating at the positive electrode is eaten away by corrosion. I carefully disassemble the lantern so as not to tear off the metal electrode to which the conductors for removing electricity from the solar cell are soldered. But on some solar cells, this electrode was also destroyed by corrosion, and attempts to solder to the metallization were unsuccessful. And how can you solder the wire to the glass?
Garden solar lights are easy to operate and can last for many years. Just wash them after the season and store them over the winter with the batteries removed, and replace the batteries every two years, during which time you can forget about them. However, my neighbors just bought them, used them, put them down and forgot about the garden solar lights. Then it turned out that they did not work and they were thrown away, and then I found them.
I liked the garbage of my neighbors. These garden solar lights would be very useful to me as garden lights. I ended up picking them up from the junkyard—those 25 garden solar lights—and buying new batteries. It didn't take long to repair them. First it was necessary to find out why they were thrown away, but I must say that most of them were not recoverable.
I started disassembling the garden solar lights by removing the batteries and putting them aside. They will be tested, and those that do not have a charge, I will put in a charger and see how they hold a charge.
Usually, when I get a box like this, I sort them visually into two groups: broken beyond repair, not broken, I check in the work and sort them as repairable and beyond repair. To do this, I take and change their parts from each other, test them and test them.
These garden solar lights are easy to assemble, they are connected together with only one screw to hold the circuit board in place and hold the solar panel in place a bit, most solar panels are loose because the fastening affects them and degrades their properties.
To test the garden solar light, I removed the lenses from the top, removed the battery, and replaced it with a good one. When the light came on, I turned the solar panel towards the sun to make sure the light went out. If the light is still on, I open the box of a garden solar light and inspect the insides.
The oxide on the solar panel contacts is easy to repair and is not a critical failure - just strip the panel contacts and wires and solder them in place.
On the ones that don't work but the solar panel is in good condition, I found that the circuit board wires and switches were oxidized and beyond repair.
Now that I've sorted the good garden solar lights from the bad ones, I give them a good wash with detergent and then dry. Now you can carry out minor repairs and assemble the lamp.
I take the collected garden solar lights out into the yard and look for a place where they get enough daylight and wait for dark. And that evening I go out to see how they work.
Great use of the find. In the hands of a master everything becomes a masterpiece. Thank you for the detailed instructions for restoring garden solar lights. I will pass it on to my husband so he can use it.
Great! I need to show my son. what if she becomes interested and makes such things for her grandmother on a personal plot.
It's beautiful when such lanterns are lit in the garden. Thanks for the detailed information on how to check and wash the lanterns.
Vera, the article does NOT tell you how to make such garden solar lamps.It tells how to repair such lamps!
Elena, apparently you don’t have a summer cottage, and you don’t know what such garden solar lamps are used for. So, they burn only at night, with a dull, dim light. Just to find a path.
Well, the man is lucky. Find such a set of parts for the reconstruction of a batch of garden solar lamps. You must have a head, first of all, and then put your hands on it!
This is exactly Olga, there is nothing to start a summer cottage, and even more so a household plot, since the hands are crooked. You can't buy everything, you'll have to do most of it yourself!
The final result of repairing or building a house largely depends on the quality of building materials. If the concrete begins to crack or the paint peels off, then you will not get satisfaction from the result of your work. Therefore, you need to buy only from trusted suppliers. a huge base of various high-quality building materials. There you will find everything you need for construction or renovation.
Added (02.07.2013, 10:49)
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The battery says: 1.2 V 40 mA / h. The charge is 4 mA. If the LED is not turned off, then when the light hits the battery, it turns off. There is a part on the board with the inscription “F1 0176”. I think it turns off the diode if the battery is charging .
Added (02.07.2013, 10:53)
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I’m thinking of doing this. Connect 3 solar panels in series, and the rest in parallel to them. Connect the batteries as well. The batteries will have to be charged. And they will give 3.6 V at the output. power. I’ll ask you not to say “Yes, you have nothing to do. Enough garbage to suffer.” I really have nothing to do and I will suffer garbage 
Added (02.07.2013, 10:57)
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Another question, what else is there for a detail? And will it be necessary to use it in my idea?
We measured the power consumption of solar-powered outdoor garden lights, as well as the charging speed in direct sun, on a cloudy day, and in the shade. The picture turned out to be interesting, although quite expected.
This article talks not so much about specific flashlights, but in general about the practical side of the operation of solar-powered lamps.
For the experiment, we took two inexpensive solar-powered flashlights. One of them is a relatively new type (brown in the photo), which is now on sale at a price of 40 to 150 rubles. absolute majority. The second one (black in the photo) is an old model, which populated store shelves with the same high density a few years ago at a similar price.
The main difference between flashlights in the solar battery. And here and there it is of the film type, but from different materials. Also, the old flashlight had a 600 mAh Ni-MH AA battery, while the new one had a smaller size (AAA) with a capacity of only 100 mAh. This is a natural reduction in price, thanks to which the price of these flashlights has not changed so much after the dollar jump.
The power consumption of both LEDs in the flashlights turned out to be the same and amounted to about 12 mA (
14 mWh). This means that with a fully charged battery, a new flashlight will be able to work 8-9 hours, and the old one (only in theory) 45-50. But here it is important to remember that when working in conditions of constant undercharging (more on this below), Ni-MH batteries quickly lose their capacity, so a more capacious battery in an old flashlight would be preferable only from the point of view that it would work for a year longer.
Now let's deal with the power of the panels and charging.
To evaluate the charging efficiency in different conditions, we chose a good day: the sun, which from time to time was covered by small light clouds. Lanterns were located both in the open and in the shade of garden trees. Voltage and current were measured at the battery terminals. We converted the obtained values into the amount of energy produced, expressed in mWh. Here's what we got:
The power of the solar battery in the old flashlight turned out to be noticeably higher, but this is not so interesting.More importantly, and this is good news, in direct sunlight, the small battery of a new flashlight can be fully charged in about 2.5-3 hours. And now the bad news. If the flashlight is placed in the shade or the day is slightly cloudy, then the charging efficiency will drop by 10 times. And if there are clouds in the sky, then there is nothing to talk about at all. The battery will not charge.
For those who are interested in the details of our measurements of solar cell performance, here is a small table.
Good day dear radio amateurs!
For almost a month now, the section “From readers“. To be honest, I already began to think that this idea of mine failed - there were no responses from readers to the proposal. And this morning, looking through the mail of the site, I was pleasantly surprised to find a letter with a proposal to publish an article. But even more I was surprised, and I can even say frankly - amazed when I saw who the author of the article was.
So, dear Radio Amateurs, today, in the “From Readers” section, it is with great pleasure and reverence that I present to you an article by the author of many interesting and informative publications and books - Yuri Vsevolodovich Revich:
A few years ago, in large supermarkets (Auchane, Leroy-Merlin), surprisingly cheap (at a price of less than a hundred rubles) garden lamps with LEDs and with a built-in solar battery for recharging during the day appeared. After some time, they appeared in almost all outlets selling electrics or goods for the garden. The lamp looks like this:
A good undertaking, however, turned out to be somewhat spoiled by the fact that the brightness of a small LED is not enough to illuminate something seriously, because the lamp rather performs decorative functions and quickly gets bored with its dead white glow. In addition, in real light conditions, the power of the solar battery is not enough to properly recharge the battery - the lamp burns for two or three hours after sunset and then “dies”.
There is, however, an easy way to correct both shortcomings at once, and turn the product from a disposable toy into a beautiful and functional element of the garden landscape. Of course, it is impossible to turn it into a full-fledged lighting device, but it is easy to significantly improve the decorative qualities of the lamp if you replace the LEDs with colored ones. The latter are commercially available in many different colors (not only white-red-yellow-green-blue, but also in different shades - for example, greens are not only just green, but also yellow-green and bluish-green, and yellow - and densely yellow and lemon). All of them, both ordinary and increased brightness, of any size and geometry, can work in these lamps without modification (with the exception of special powerful lighting and still flashing LEDs, which themselves represent a complete circuit). When replacing, just watch the polarity of the LED, and practically nothing else is needed. The lamps work quietly even in winter with slight frosts, but with a strong cold snap, it is better to remove them into the room by pulling out the battery.
However, the second problem may even be aggravated: a small voltage drop on a colored LED will make it burn very brightly, but even in summer only half an hour or an hour. This is especially disturbing in autumn and winter, when daylight hours are reduced, and cloudy weather leads to the fact that the battery charge accumulated during the day is only enough for a couple of minutes.
This drawback is also easy to fix if you connect a resistor with a nominal value of several tens of ohms in series with the LED. You should use a sharp cutter to break the track on the board leading from the microcircuit to the LED and install a resistor instead of it (the figure below shows a remake of the lamp board from Leroy-Merlin, in other cases the board may look different):
The selection of the resistor should be carried out in such a way that the current through it is 4-6 mA - this is enough for the normal brightness of the glow, and when the standard 600 mAh Ni-Cd battery is fully charged, the lamp will then work for several days (in practice, a full charge, of course not achieved).
At the output of the lamp chip, it has a coarse current source with an open-circuit voltage of about 2.5 V - that is, approximately equal to twice the battery voltage. When a load is connected, this voltage drops, and the resistor must be selected so that the voltage drop across it corresponds to the selected current. For example, for a red LED, the rating can be 75-91 ohms (voltage drop across a resistor of 0.4-0.5 V), for a green high brightness - from 47 to 62 ohms (voltage drop of 0.2-0.3 V) and etc.
By the way, usually a regular Ni-Cd battery lasts no more than a year, then it fails. Experience has shown that a conventional Ni-MH battery can be installed in a lamp, and the cheaper (that is, the smaller its capacity), the better - the existing solar battery is still not enough to fully charge a battery with a capacity of 2000-3000 mAh , and in any case it will work only on a small part of its capabilities.
For those who (in their youth) are unfamiliar with Yu.V. Revici:
useful radio junk devices
Message universal007 » 12 Apr 2012, 22:34
Navigator 94 711 NSL-MO-1W-106AAA-SP - 199 rubles
1 Ni-MH AA 600mA installed inside the case - completely weightless - 11g
For reference -
AAA 1000mA Camelion - 12g.
AAA 600mA from MJ flashlight - 7gr.
AA 2700mA Daewoo - 28gr
Number of LEDs - 1
LED color is white.
Height 415mm.
Width 120mm.
Message universal007 » 12 Apr 2012, 22:51
1 Ni-cd 2/3AA (diameter like AA but two times shorter) of unknown capacity, installed inside the case - 9gr.
There is a four-legged microcircuit and a choke.
Marking 0116
In order for the LED to go out, room lighting from lamps or daylight is enough - direct sunlight is not necessary.
If you remove the battery, the LED starts to glow when light falls on the solar cell.
When the battery is installed, the LED starts to glow if the solar cell is covered with a hand.
Number of LEDs - 1.
The color of the LED is yellowish, probably warm white.
Solar cell size 2.5*3cm.
All measurements were taken under a 20W energy-saving lamp
LED consumption:
6.5mA - from solar cell
3.6mA - from the battery
LED voltage:
2.90v - from solar cell
1.19v - from the battery
Izar - 12.5mA
Uxx (idling voltage) at the booster output - 3.3v
Uxx (open circuit voltage) at the output of the solar cell - 3.35v
From direct sunlight Izar - 17.5mA
Message universal007 » 12 Apr 2012, 22:58
Navigator 94 711 NSL-MO-1W-106AAA-SP
There is a four-legged microcircuit and a choke.
Marking
52521H - first line
1011 - second line
Uxx (open circuit voltage) 2.2 V;
If you pull out the battery, the LED does not glow when light falls on the solar cell, unlike the SY-H030.
The light goes out when the battery is discharged to 1 volt.
Starts to glow again after holding the solar panel in front of the lamp for a few seconds.
Message universal007 » 12 Apr 2012, 23:19
I replaced the LED in the circuit with three pieces with a bluish glow.
Handbook of home tricks: tips, recommendations for self-repair of home appliances and items, instructions, literature on repair, diagrams, drawings, films, a piggy bank of utilities, important things about repairs, safety. (Materials posted on the site, including articles, may contain information intended for users over 18 years of age “18+”)
The luminaire is designed for decorative lighting of landscape gardening areas and objects (paths, flower beds, small architecture items).
By admin on 02/10/2012 Posted in Lamps
HOW TO GET A PERFUME FRAGRANCE FOR THE ALL DAY - A VERY SIMPLE TRICK! .
Pattern. Master Inna. A source .
This technique of closing loops with a needle is used in any knitting, machine or hand. This is n.
Published by: Hlada. This blanket - 10 loops - pl.
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I think everyone has already bought more than a dozen solar-powered lamps for their dacha. I will say right away they make an amazing impression at night. But what if the solar battery has become cloudy in a couple of seasons and now does not charge with the same force as before, the battery and beautiful light are not enough not only for the night, but even for a couple of hours
|
Video (click to play). |
The first idea that visited me in an attempt to reanimate a clouded solar cell was to grind it and polish. By the way, the result turned out to be nothing to itself. Over there in the picture, the one below
