In detail: do-it-yourself garden wheelbarrow repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
For two years of operation, the wheel bearings almost crumbled, in addition, the tire cracked and torn and the chamber was pierced.
Until the new wheels arrived, I decided to modernize and strengthen my garden cart a bit.
I connected the handles to each other with an arc almost immediately after purchase, it is much more convenient to control the wheelbarrow, besides, you can do it with one hand.
I also wanted to move the wheels closer to the middle of the body for a long time. I don’t understand those who designed such carts at all. Most likely, they took the design of a wheelbarrow, which was used in the construction of the White Sea Canal, as a basis. The wheels of such wheelbarrows (one or two) are located in the front, so a significant part of the weight falls on the hands. Despite this, at present, 99 percent of such products have wheels shifted forward. This applies to both garden and construction wheelbarrows, which, in my opinion, are not much different from each other.
In short, I decided to move the wheels closer to the center of gravity. At the same time, the distance between the wheels will slightly increase, but the width dimension will remain the same. In addition, increasing the distance between the wheels will increase the overall stability of the wheelbarrow.
All parts were made from scrap metal lying around in different corners, adjusted with the help of a grinder and emery.
First of all, I took two steel plates of suitable sizes with a thickness of 3-4 mm, drilled two holes in them in diameter. 10mm and installed between the body shell and the plastic lining in the rear wall of the car. The length of the plates should be such that they protrude slightly above the bottom of the trough.
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Video (click to play). |
He threw out a thin tin in the front, which apparently served to increase the rigidity of the body.
In its place, I installed a steel strip of suitable sizes. For this purpose, I came across a spring, someone and once straightened.
I adjusted two more plates in size, welded them.
Two vertical racks - pipe segments with a diameter of about 32mm. Their length is about half the diameter of the wheel, it is selected empirically.
The axis should be 20 mm in diameter, I didn’t find one, I put 18 mm, then I’ll think of something.
It is necessary to check that the wheels spin freely, the tires do not touch the body. If necessary, several washers or a piece of pipe can be put on the axle. The bottom of the body should have a slope back, then when moving, the arcs will not touch the slightest obstacles or uneven ground, as it was in the factory version.
Here I forgot to take a photo, but everything is clear. In place of the former axis, I attached a piece of pipe, fitted and welded pieces of reinforcement dia. 16 mm. Shown below with arrows.
I did all the steps without removing the body, so it’s quite simple to do the entire harness.
Now you can remove the trough and boil in inaccessible places.
At the same time and paint.
Installed new, more powerful wheels, size 4.80/4.00-8. Relatives were 3.25 / 3.00-8.
The bearings were completely lubricated. In order to somehow extend their life, I lubricated them with MS-1000 grease using a syringe. On occasion, I took four more bearings in stock.
In conclusion, he conducted sea trials. 
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I needed a wheelbarrow for country needs. Well, take the leaves there, drag a couple of cubes of sand from the gate. I bought a cheap Encore, because the expensive ones too ha did not inspire confidence.
I have not yet begun to exploit it, as the constructive jamb of the wheel has already come to light. The shaft is barely held in thin supports, the wheel sits on the shaft with a gap of almost five dozen and travels along the shaft to the left and right. Even in the existing bearing, cage 2 moves relative to cage 1, and 3 moves relative to 2 (well, this is understandable, there are balls, but there is some backlash why is needed.
To begin with, I want to press out the old bearings, pick up new ones, of a closed design (as I understand it, there are 32x15x12). Fuse two necks on the shaft, put bearings on them (press or nitrogen). Well, come up with, weld reinforced shaft brackets along its edges. The wheel consists of spirit halves
, hence the question, to press each from its own edge of the shaft, then tighten them, or come up with stops on the shaft (one removable, the other one is not), so that they do not move left and right? But then the bearing is dragged through one neck, and left on the other, and the wheel is planted as an assembly. Any ideas?
Threat. I haven’t thought about strengthening the frame yet, I don’t know where its weak points are, the operation will reveal it, but I also don’t want to make the car heavier in vain.
Intuition tells you that the game is not worth the candle.
Bad design, very flimsy. For this reason, it is better to make a wheelbarrow yourself on more solid wheels, which are sold by companies focused on warehouse equipment.
It can take a thicker bar, for example, by 16, leave the middle of its native diameter, for the length of the distance between the bearings, and grind the edges to fit the existing bearing diameter. In order to assemble this assembly and not disassemble it for a long time, take a closer look at the mokkik tires, they have rubber identical to that for carts.
In terms of amplification - there is a kengurin, this is already a plus. The rest depends on the thickness of the trough. If thin, then the bottom can bend, and the leading edge can be bent into an arc. There may also be such an opportunity that the edges of the trough are in the horizon when the trolley is being loaded, but it is worth taking hold of the handles and the trough leans forward. Concrete is not particularly convenient to carry in such, it is also liquid, it splashes forward during transportation.
wheels, which are sold by firms focused on warehouse equipment
There, the price is probably the same as for the whole car (I took it for 1300 rubles.)
I would do it myself, but it will turn out very heavy, I can only weld a trough from a deuce, an uncomfortable rectangular shape. And I won’t take a thin-walled pipe for frame handles anywhere. Last time I took a wheelbarrow from a friend, that two wheels from the Carpathians (Riga), a body from a troika. pipe handle. To transport it is hemorrhoids, and to roll it, it comes out heavier than the payload.
It can take a thicker bar, for example, by 16, leave the middle of its native diameter, for the length of the distance between the bearings, and grind the edges to fit the existing bearing diameter.
But the idea! And the internal broadening will not prevent the bearings from being planted, and it will not allow moving along the shaft.
With rubber, there is a camera, it seems, it does not siphon.
The trough is thin. I'm ashamed to say six dozen. I thought to strengthen it, but the electrode cannot even be brought to this thickness.
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I propose to get acquainted with the story of a summer resident and a real home-made man Valery Gubchenko, how he chose and finalized - he strengthened an ordinary garden wheelbarrow, turning it into a universal construction one.
Valery says that it has become important for him to purchase a double-purpose car for a summer cottage, so to speak. It is supposed to be used both for gardening and construction.
When monitoring the proposed assortment in the Internet and building supermarkets, he saw that the garden ones differ from the building ones in form and quality. And of course the price. Garden ones are much cheaper, but also, accordingly, more flimsy.
In form - with a lower bodywork is supposed to be for heavy, but not bulky cargo. I noticed that quality in most cases is the reliability of the frame.
Wheels and bodywork plus or minus are the same everywhere.
Production - China, more expensive - Turkey.
There is a galvanized body, there is a painted one.
And of course with one and two wheels.
Price range from cheap to medium.
To the question of how to be a do-it-yourselfer had one answer to make a universal wheelbarrow from an ordinary one with his own hands. Valery decided to buy one of the most inexpensive ones and modify the frame himself.
He chose a wheelbarrow with one wheel. Painted. The paint looked better. When working, there will inevitably be scratches that want to rust. They will be easy to color. But paint does not adhere well to zinc. By the way, the quality of painting (powder) is of a very good level.
All welding work, or rather fitting and tacking, was carried out directly on the body itself for an accurate fit. The paint hasn't peeled off. The wheelbarrow was assembled on six bolts with a diameter of 6 mm. I changed all the bolts to more powerful 10 mm, added another one in the area where I strengthened the frame near the wheel. It turns out that there was no frame as such - the author made it from scratch. Two arcs that were originally attached directly to the body were also reinforced with three struts.
Now they are already solid, but they are still suitable for transportation. The whole car fit unassembled in the back seat of a small car.
From the materials it was purchased:
— Bolts, washers, grovers;
- 10 meters of reinforcement;
— Electrodes;
— Cylinders with paint;
Trial The first day of work went off without a hitch. It turned out to be a powerful car.
Loaded to the limit with earth - no longer fit - fell out. It was so heavy that I could not push ahead of myself - only pull. Withstood with dignity - not a single creak.
As a result, from the cheapest car it turned out in terms of power such that even in the most expensive segment they are inferior to it. 
The photos below show the whole process of the work performed:
Do-it-yourself garden wheelbarrow repair. Wheel bearing replacement.
My garden wheelbarrow began to creak terribly while transporting various goods. Therefore, I decided to make an audit of the wheel and found that the bearings had collapsed.
Replacing a bearing in a wheelbarrow wheel is fairly easy. It is necessary to remove the remnants of the old bearing and measure the diameter of the hole where the new bearing will be installed and the diameter of the axis on which the bearing will be put on.
I bought new bearings and installed them in place of the broken ones.
After all the manipulations, the wheelbarrow stopped creaking and its course became smooth and easy.
Often, having spent quite a bit of time, you can avoid additional costs, which are already enough for those who spend the summer in the country and in country houses, caring for buildings, gardens and gardens. In this particular case, the conversation, or rather, the video sequence, will be about how to bring the wheel of a garden cart back to life in a few minutes. A garden wheelbarrow in the country is never idle: take out the garbage, then bring building materials, then transport the crop. And, of course, with such intensive use, the wheel periodically fails: the tire is pierced, the chamber bursts, etc. But, before you go to the market and buy a new wheel, see how quickly you can disassemble the wheel, patch it, or, in case of significant damage, replace the tube and tire, and return everything to its original form.
We want you to see how easy it is to replace a punctured, burst or simply worn out camera. garden wheelbarrow wheels. Of course, we do this work every day and have overboarded several hundred thousand of these wheels before we decided to post this video. The video lasts only a couple of minutes, but by watching it and following the simple sequence of actions we perform, you will be spared unnecessary time costs.
First you need to unscrew the spool and completely bleed the air from the wheel to make it easier to remove the tire with the chamber from the disk.
Then we insert a new chamber into the tire, be sure to carefully straighten it around the entire circumference inside the tire.
Once, on a video about repairing a construction wheelbarrow wheel, we received a comment from a man in which he assured us that our camera with a tire was made of soft rubber, and his was made of oak and it was impossible to do what was shown in the video. So, if you carefully distribute the chamber inside the tire before you start putting all this on the disk, any tire set, of course, if it is matched to the size of the disk, regardless of the softness of the rubber, will definitely fit on the disk.
If we don't do it with due diligence, then we won't put the kit on the disc.No need to watch how quickly the person in the video does this work, he does it all the time, just pay attention to how carefully the tire set is prepared before putting on the disk.
The next step is to insert the nipple into the hole on the disk and insert the pre-assembled tire kit with the chamber inside with force in a circle.
We inflate the wheel and close the nipple with a cap. That's it!
In the video, we use a compressor to inflate a tire, but you can inflate it almost as quickly with a regular car pump. Everything else is done exclusively by hand and does not require any improvised means.
And in conclusion, once again I would like to draw your attention to the fact that if something doesn’t work out for you, then this happens not because the rubber is “oak”, but because the sequence of actions is violated.
We often have to bead the wheels in winter, at minus 15. Knowing the properties of rubber, you can easily guess that any rubber will be “oak” at such a temperature, but we spend exactly the same amount of time as in this video.
It turns out everything is simple. The fact is that there are not so many services for the repair of this type of instrument. Therefore, you will have to solve the problem with the repair of a wheelbarrow on your own. To do this, accordingly, you need to know what problems you may encounter, as well as exactly how to solve these problems, relying only on yourself. Actually, this is what we will talk about in this article.
The wheel broke. According to statistics construction wheelbarrow and garden wheelbarrow in the course of their operation, they most often face the problem of the wheel. Here, as a rule, one common problem is singled out - the camera bursts or pierces during operation. Of course, in this case, you can try to bead the wheel, and then seal the camera with a patch. Yes - the old-fashioned way, but it also has a place to be. However, due to the large assortment of choice of this tool, today it is easier to buy a new spare part than to repair an old one. Accordingly, with regard to the wheel, we note that it is best to buy a new wheel without a tube. The fact is that a tubeless wheel will once and for all save you from the problem of collision with glass and piercing objects.
Another problem with the wheel happens most often at the moment of overload. The fact is that any wheel on a wheelbarrow has a disc, which is made of metal or plastic. The disc itself is very light, consists of two parts. So, if the wheelbarrow is overloaded, the load on the disk will increase repeatedly, as a result of which the bolts can slip into their own technological hole. If this happened to your car, then you should immediately stop all work, bleed air from the wheel, disassemble it and place washers of a larger diameter under the bolts. Of course, this is a temporary solution that will allow you to gain time to buy a new wheel.
The frame broke. Very often, mainly due to overload, construction wheelbarrow and garden wheelbarrow faced with such a problem as a burst metal frame. In this case, it is best for you, as a home master, to send it to the online store in your city and buy a welding inverter. Of course, this approach to business will not allow your equipment to continue to be collapsible, as was the case with a bolted connection. However, the use of a welded joint will make the design of the wheelbarrow more rigid and, as a result, more durable.
The wheel of a construction wheelbarrow rubs against the supporting frame. We have already said that a construction wheelbarrow and a garden wheelbarrow should not be overloaded during operation. However, its users very often neglect this. Actually, it is precisely because of the overload that the wheel on the wheelbarrow begins to rub.The reason for this may be the curvature of the axial part, as well as the complete or partial destruction of the bearing system. So, in the first breakdown, it is very often necessary to change the bearing axial parts. In the second, the wheel as a whole changes.
The body became very mobile. As a rule, a construction wheelbarrow and a garden wheelbarrow under the influence of a load can lose their strength and become unbalanced. However, this problem is even simpler and is solved by making a simple diagnosis and inspection of your instrument. So, in the process of diagnosis, it is very important for you to determine which of the bots on the body of the car is weakened. So, as soon as you find it, just tighten the necessary nuts and that's it, your car will be back in service at the proper level of quality.
As you can see construction wheelbarrow and garden wheelbarrow have not so many problems, but even those that are are easily solved by replacing something or repairing it with improvised means.
Like it or not, the wheel is the most vulnerable spot on the wheelbarrow. At the same time, it is often destroyed not due to overload, but becomes the subject of impact on it by piercing objects. So it is, therefore, in order to avoid this problem, we have to change the wheel to a new one, since repairing the old one is not always possible. So, when replacing a wheel with a new one, you need to choose a specific type of wheel from the following range of choices:
Pneumatic wheel. This type of wheel is considered the simplest and most common, since it is included in almost all wheelbarrows, both low and high price ranges. The basis of such a wheel is the air that enters a special chamber under the action of a pump. It is believed that the pressure in the chamber should not be less than 2 atmospheres. Note that such a wheel is relatively inexpensive, however, it can cost half of the full cost of the construction and garden modification of the wheelbarrow.
Cast wheel. This type of wheel also has such a name - tubeless. It usually costs significantly more and comes to the market only with a metal disc. Of the advantages of such a wheel, durability and unpretentiousness in use can be distinguished. So it is, because the wheel does not need to be pumped, which means that you do not need to waste time on its maintenance. Note that many St. Petersburg garden cars are equipped with such a wheel, which are represented on the domestic market with a large assortment of choices. Note that garden wheelbarrows on a tubeless wheel have a long service life because there is no chamber with air inside. Therefore, such garden wheelbarrows can not be pierced and cut with a sharp object. Note that the tubeless wheel tire itself is very durable, which significantly reduces the wear of the wheelbarrow during operation.
Summing up this article, we note that all that wheelbarrows, construction and garden, in general, are very strong and durable. All these nuances and problems are just isolated shortcomings, which, with a very high probability, will not affect you. However, you must be prepared for anything in order to provide first aid to your construction or garden wheelbarrow if necessary.
Do-it-yourself garden wheelbarrow repair. Wheel bearing replacement. My garden wheelbarrow began to creak terribly.
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In this article, the “How It's Made” site will tell you how to do it. wheelbarrow wheel repair on one's own.
If you have a different model of a car, it's okay, because their wheels differ only in size.
If there was a puncture in the wheel of a garden wheelbarrow, it is not necessary to change it entirely. You can just replace the camera.
First, determine the wheel size using the markings on the tire and buy a new tube of the appropriate size.
Then remove the wheel from the wheelbarrow frame.
Unscrew all the wheel bolts and pull the old tube out of the tire.
Once again, make sure that the marking of the new chamber matches the marking of the wheelbarrow wheel.
Then place the new inner tube into the tire and reassemble the wheel in reverse order.
The wheel with the new chamber is assembled and can be installed back on the frame.
After that, using a pump, we pump it up to the desired pressure.
The replacement of the garden wheelbarrow wheel chamber is complete.
To see clearly how to replace the camera in a garden wheelbarrow, we recommend watching the video:
