Do-it-yourself Mercedes 123 interior repair

In detail: do-it-yourself Mercedes 123 interior repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Hey! I wanted to write about the salon when I finish with it entirely, but all the forces go to repairs in the house, there is no time for the salon, but I want to tell, so I'll start with one driver's seat. )))

Almost every 123 driver's seat is worn in the same place, on the left, and the springs are often broken and you sit on it somewhat leaning to the left, it's good if these same broken springs don't dig into your ass. ))

Frames, at least their lower part, there are three types. Actually, I know three.
1. It was placed on the driver and passenger seats of the first series and passenger seats of the second series. It does not have twisted springs in front, all springs look like this:

2. Placed on the driver's and passenger seats of the third series and the driver's — the second series. There are two coil springs on the front.

3. I got it from a taxi car, with the interior of the third series. Stood on both the passenger and the driver. There are 4 (!) twisted springs in front, because of this, the shape of the second horizontal spring is somewhat changed. Also, the three rear springs, which are free in the normal version, are here connected with each other by additional springs into a single whole.

Naturally, the third option is much tougher. But I thought that Mercedes takes care of its customers, especially before, and this version is for a taxi, where the driver is driving all day. Chose the third option. The passenger seat was completely intact, and I repaired the driver's seat by replacing broken springs with intact ones. And no rugs, foam pads, cardboard boxes placed on you ... How many interesting things I got out of such repaired chairs ... They also love to weld broken springs, I don’t need to explain that they will quickly burst next to welding. The most normal of these methods is to put on some kind of tube, I saw a lot of this on the drive. It seems to me the most viable option, and you don’t even need to disassemble the chair. But we will go the other way. ))

Video (click to play).

Do you want to service your device with your own hands?

Then this is for you. Here we will discuss the problems that you may encounter when repairing a particular unit. The sections that I personally had to deal with during almost 5 years of operation of the W123 and sensible advice from people who know these or those units well are covered. Cars are far from new and require a careful, and sometimes gentle approach, first of all to disassembling the units.

Let's start with the simplest…. That's right - with the tool.

A good tool is the key to the right approach to the problem of repair. You should not buy cheap keys of unknown origin. Broken nuts, damaged splines, ruined parts and “keys” - this is the result that can be easily achieved with such a tool.

Medium (not large) set of heads. A suitcase containing two sets of sockets (regular and extended version) for 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 22, 24, a ratchet, a set of extensions, a set of short hexagons, a set of screwdriver bits .

The set is German, I have already broken the running heads for 17, 24. I'm going to make up for the piece. Of the cheap sets, our Russian socket sets can be considered one of the most affordable and reliable. In addition to the worthless ratchet, it is quite possible to work with a set.

Combined wrenches (open-end wrenches) 8, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 24. I have these keys from the company Running keys. Must be reliable and of good quality. Keys are not cheap ($8-13 each). Amazing strength and manufacturing precision with a small work surface and low weight! Lifetime warranty. I bought 1-2-3 per month.I think they have already paid for themselves at the cost of unspoiled nuts and bolts, saving time and nerves, and the pleasure gained from work ...

In addition, a 10mm ring wrench is ideal for unscrewing the lower bolts of the front shock absorbers. Union for 12 is a great help for the exhaust manifold on the 102nd engine. Since the head is aluminum, you don't have to mess with the studs for a long time.

At 13 - well, quite running, should be good.

Wrench for upper mounting of shock absorbers. A very useful item. Made by myself. I am attaching the drawing.

Tubular key 8-10. For unscrewing all kinds of self-tapping screws.

Ring wrench for 11 with a cut (I have Fakomovsky). For separating brake and fuel hoses and for bleeding brakes and clutches.

Long hexagon 14. For unscrewing the plug for checking the oil level in the rear axle and gearbox.

Short (under the head), preferably a firm hexagon on __ for unscrewing the bolts for fastening the front brake discs. Efforts are very good.

Hammer. A good hammer never hurts. The old way of unscrewing difficult connections is a preliminary short blow with a hammer.

Special and infrequently required tool:

Hydraulic jack. It is very useful when removing - installing the rear suspension (reducer, springs, beam), replacing engine mounts, etc.

The usual Zhiguli internal spring extractor. It is quite suitable for compressing the front springs on the scoundrel. Recommend. Abundant lubrication of rubbing parts is highly desirable.

Amplifier. Simply put, a rather long piece of pipe to enhance gentle efforts.

Those who drive tubeless tires will probably benefit from a small repair kit. Includes needle with handle, spiral awl, glue, repair flagella. Allows you to quickly and efficiently close up breakdowns. With some skill, you can close without removing the wheel and even maintain some pressure in the tire.

I have been using the TECH set for 3 years already (this is how they work in car services). Several times he helped out a lot, especially in rural areas (where tubeless ones are not repaired). The set included 5 more cans of compressed air, allegedly allowing one wheel to be inflated. Used it in emergencies and was very pleased. Cylinders are expensive, better to have a pump.

Before use, it is worth practicing on “rabbits” to start the needle correctly so as not to break it at the most inopportune moment. You need to start it carefully and at an angle to the disk, otherwise it likes to break.

Any Chinese sets of similar equipment are DIRECTLY CONTRAINDICATED, because apart from the time they have killed, they do not represent anything useful (I tried it).

In St. Petersburg, all this is sold by the E-Line company, PO Box 63, t.325-35-12, 112-18-82.

Battery undercharging problems. – (NEW!)

Fairly common on W123 and W126. It consists in current leakage, and not on the plus, but on the minus (poor contact of the minus of the generator with the body). Although there are a lot of “mass” wires, it will not be superfluous at all instead of a thin wire that connects the generator housing and the engine block, to conduct a more decent one and connect the generator housing and the car body. I have a wire from the generator fastened with the same bolt as the negative terminal of the battery. The result was not long in coming.

Several serious points.

A sore spot is the lower mount of shock absorbers. The fastening bolts turn sour in the lever and twist when unscrewed. Therefore, shock absorbers should be changed for the first time in a place where, with such an ambush, you can drill it all out or heat it up and unscrew it. Bolts should be lubricated during assembly.

The weak point is the springs. Over time, they sag and break. Attempts to put new relatives led to an interesting result - for two seasons. After that I tried to put poyuzannye from the 140th body and the problems disappeared. It is advisable to use springs cat. number 140 324 05 04 (they are softer). I put the springs on the first spacers (one risk). It is highly desirable to use in tandem with shock absorbers from the W126.They change quite simply without any pullers after removing the shock absorbers and calipers by unscrewing the beam mounting bolts (either in the middle or alternately from the edges)

If the beam cushions have not been changed for a very long time or the fastening bolt has not been unscrewed for a long time, then it is quite possible that you will have to work hard before you can unscrew it. The trouble is that from time to time the pillow mounting bolt and the pillow corrode (different metals) and tightly turn sour. If this happens, and all the soaks and Unisms do not help, you will have to take a larger pipe and use this tool to unscrew the bolt. In this case, as a rule, the pillow is for replacement (it comes off the base). Yes, you shouldn't do this if you don't have a replacement pillow. In order to prevent this from happening again, the bolt should be lubricated during assembly, and the pillow hole too.

Replacing a wheel bearing requires a special wrench. Homemade (from a pipe) broke down very quickly, and a branded one costs $ 30. When I changed it to a new one, I unscrewed it with an impact screwdriver (fortunately, the new kit has both a nut and a washer).

Replacing the front brake discs

There is nothing difficult. For easier and safer unscrewing of the bolts securing the brake disc to the hub, it is advisable to fasten the already removed hub to the wheel (more convenient than any vice).

Probably every owner of the W123 faced backlash in the steering mechanism, or rather in the steering gear. Cars are far from new, and over time, the backlash from the unnoticed becomes more tangible and noticeable, growing into annoying. In addition to checking the level and recommendations to deal with the steering at a specialized car service, the service book does not say anything, although, like any unit, it is worthy of attention and requires relatively little maintenance ..

There are two completely different solutions to the problem:

Try yourself to simply remove the gap by adjusting the screw. The idea is not simple, because the place is very uncomfortable, but gives a tangible temporary result. How long the adjustment will last is a rather interesting question, since it depends on the condition of the gearbox and the number of adjustments to your

Fight this by looking for a normal reducer. With a deeper study of the problem, it turned out that the worm and gears of this device have a wear-resistant cemented layer, designed for the entire life of the car. As soon as the layer begins to break down, wear is several times faster. Therefore, additional adjustment (initially the gap is adjusted at the factory) of the gap only aggravates the process of dying of the steering gear.

Conclusions: if it is not possible to purchase a normal gearbox and you want to keep the existing one, you should not abuse the gap adjustment and, if possible, refuse it altogether.

Conservation efforts can be concentrated on changing the power steering fluid and checking the steering damper more frequently, as it softens the shocks transmitted to the power from the suspension and greatly extends the life.

Didn't complain much. It always started well and without problems in any frost. From constant starts and spins at the maximum, the camshaft began to make a louder noise (about a year later), although apart from the “diesel” sound, nothing bad was noticed. When operating at high speeds likes to eat oil.

The weak point of the W123 with this engine is the exhaust manifold. It, in almost all cars, cracks or warps. Later, in later models, the manifold began to be made with three fasteners in the area of the fourth cylinder, which improved the design. Cracks can be welded, but not for very long. It all depends on the welder. I was gassed. The warped collector was polished on the machine. Enough for half a year (again, in the region of the fourth cylinder, it started to siphon through the gasket).

I have not picked it yet. It works quite reliably. Doesn't start well in cold weather. on 92 gasoline. On the native 98 there are no problems.

The only thing that was noticed was a slight problem due to the distributor cap ..If it starts poorly and trims in wet weather or does not start after washing the engine, first of all it is necessary to process the cover of the distributor from the inside with a moisture displacer.

P.S. After replacing the cover with a new one, all problems disappeared, although the old one still captivates with its very decent appearance.

Automatic transmission.

Good advice for use. Provided by GMA

The sport mode as such during normal driving does not lead to any particular wear on both the box and the engine.

The car accelerates from 0 to 200, for example, equally fast regardless of whether the so-called. sport mode or not.

Fuel consumption, oddly enough, very little depends on whether you drive in 3rd gear from fast. 100 km/h or 4th.

It’s not “sport modes” that ruin the box, but:

switching when “throttle to the floor”

downshifts when speed is high

low or high oil level

harsh driving on an overheated box

driving in “borderline” modes between gears on gearboxes where the “hysteresis” is small

driving with very frequent shifts

"playing" with the gas pedal

“gas supply” during “up” shift

sharp “throttle release” at the moment of switching “down”

constant driving with “slippage”

reverse gear engagement at a speed of more than + 1-2 km / h

inclusion of forward modes at a speed of more than (minus 1-2) km / h

switching front / rear at high engine speeds (> 1000-1200 depending on the type of box)

riding on a box that is not at all warm at any temperature

towing a car with automatic transmission for long distances

towing a car with automatic transmission at high speed

simultaneous use of the gas and brake pedals

operation of an automatic transmission paired with a “triple” motor

operation of automatic transmission paired with “crunchy” CV joints

frequent starting off in higher gears (on boxes that allow this in principle)

long driving on automatic transmissions that are in “protected modes”

further driving on an obviously faulty box

when starting off, the gas is applied BEFORE the car received a perceptible push forward as a result of the gear being engaged

"Nudge" shifting by adding gas pedal

driving on low-quality old oil

driving with frequent blocking / unblocking of hydrotrans (on automatic transmission, where it is)

driving on oil that does not correspond to the manual (dexron instead of dexron-II, for example)

abrupt gas supply after engine braking with forced low gear engaged

driving with an overheated engine

harsh driving on a freshly refurbished automatic transmission

fast sharp driving backwards

driving on business, when you already need to go to the service.

Since the coupe is a fairly rare car, things like power windows (electric) are a rather vulnerable feature. New ones cost money and not small ones, so you need to repair the old ones.

What can be done with a power window whose teeth have been sheared (usually 3-4 teeth) and the body has cracked (usually right in the middle of the feed gear)?

Repair will not work if you do not find the cause. As far as I understand, the cause of the breakdown is the difficult movement of the glass. The coupe does not have guides throughout the course (there is no frame) and brackets play the role of guides (on the sides of the glass below). I replaced the plastic inserts with rubber bands in the brackets (they are ordered separately 4 pieces per side), adjusted the slope, lubricated and the glass began to walk much easier.

New teeth are welded onto broken and bent teeth by semi-automatic welding, which are then processed and adjusted to normal sizes. The success of the operation depends on the skill of the welder. I'm lucky to have one. Welded teeth have been running for 8 months. Do not try to do this by electric welding - the result is much worse.

A cracked body made of colored (some kind of aluminum alloy) is also boiled, but with argon. It cooks well. It is worth carefully looking at the case for cracks, since, as a rule, the matter is not limited to one obvious one. Small and imperceptible then grow into large and all the work down the drain.

Ștefan 16 April 2014 – 19:24

Attention: I found this instruction on the Internet, this is not my work, but just a repost of what I found on the site

As many owners know, the 123s, like other old Mercedes, have a problem with the seats, or rather with their springs and horsehair, which, from old age, pour on the floor, which is why the car needs to be cleaned almost every day.
This method of replacing horsehair with modern material is a solution to the problem of sagging springs, which makes you sit on the seat like on a water ball.
Many solve the problem by transplanting seats from the 124th Mercedes or from BMW.
But it's expensive and not pretty.

I will not describe the procedure for removing the seats themselves, I think everyone has already removed at least once and there is nothing difficult.

After disassembling the seats and removing the trim, I recommend replacing horsehair (coconut) with a material called Izolon, which costs a penny in building materials stores.

Image - Do-it-yourself Mercedes 123 interior repair

In order to compensate for the sagging springs for their long operation and age, install artificial material between the springs designed to insulate pipes. Sold in the same building materials stores.

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TriveR 19 Mar 2009

From December to March, the work began.

We have to work with the rear arches, setting gaps, welding the inner threshold, painting and assembly.
Well, and much more. Noise, suspension repair, exhaust replacement, acoustics (trunk modification), installation of an already painted BBS skirt (all spare parts are available)
Now I will lay out everything in the process. (Sorry for the confusion of thoughts and for the unprofessional description of what has been done, and so I don’t want negative statements, there is no way to do it differently, but there is a desire)
I'll post a photo later.

Post has been edited by TriveR: 19 March 2009 – 01:27

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TriveR 19 Mar 2009

General information
VIN WDB1231201A138149
Model 200D
Chassis number (body) 1231201A138149
Engine number 615940 10 359783
Gearbox number 716214 00 012185
Order number 0 3 209 03165
Optics manufacturer HELLA
cab 03325
Approximate year of production 1983 (3rd production series)
Dealer branch Kiel (209)
Interior upholstery Pine green fabric (056)

Release years 1984
Displacement 1988 cc (tax formula 1971 cc)
Power 60 hp / 44 kW at 4400 rpm
Number of cylinders / arrangement 4 / in-line
Rear wheel drive
Length 4725
Width 1786
Weight 1920 kg (not 1910, but 1920)

body color
803 – riedgrun (moss green) (T) (01/01/1982 to 12/31/1986)

Option Codes
466 Central locking system (from 04/01/1970 to 10/31/1993)
504 Electrically adjustable right exterior mirror (from 01/11/1978 to 29/02/1986)
534 Mechanical antenna without radio (from 01/01/1963 to 11/30/1990) (installed on the front fender, since the model is diesel)
591 Athermal glass around the perimeter, rear single-layer heated, Germany
(since 01/01/1972) (rear heated glass is standard equipment)
876 Rear door limit switches and lighting above the rear window (from 07/01/1964 to 10/31/1993) (standard option for 280/280 E models, as well as for all coupe, station wagon models)
Salon
7602ab9480e.jpg

Post has been edited by TriveR: 19 March 2009 – 18:42

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TriveR 19 Mar 2009

Cut out the excess.

We try on the threshold and the rack

You can read about what the w123224D car is for the driver and passengers in the previous review! Nothing has changed in a year. Thousands of kilometers do not diminish comfort: the car is still the same after starting with a poke-says-so-so-so and swam, didn’t go, mind you, but swam. and smooth on the go, as when I bought it exactly a year ago. I didn’t lose the engine in power, I would even say that the car has become more nimble, all the same, the piston is new and laps, the box is also all alles gut and you also click the gears completely imperceptibly as before ... Sometimes it seems that time is beyond the control of this car and it is driving now as well as when 34 years ago she left the Stuttgart car dealership brand new!

... The move is soft, the cabin is quiet, the panels do not creak. The reversal is almost in place, everything is sound. Nothing really breaks. Not very prestigious, but not shameful either. And most importantly — get the buzz from the ride! He walks like a Merc, on the balls of his fingers, like a lynx ... Well, Merc, how else can he walk. For all this, I love it. I don't think I will change this brand. Although a person assumes, but ...

1-Completely cleaned the seat covers

I didn’t contact Vanish - I bought a Melam interior cleaner and the result is in place!

2-I found a tree installed since 1982 as standard on a Mercedes123 and installed Zebrano and all the wood on the ashtray on the tunnel.

fuel quantity sensor

Finally, he defeated his main enemy, namely, a non-working fuel indicator and a fuel reserve that was constantly burning with a devilish red eye! I purchased a tidy mainly because of this - and it turned out that it didn’t show either - but the reason was in the wiring to the sensor in the tank! I replaced one wire - blue-black from pin G of the sensor going to pin 3 of the tidy connector and responsible for the indicator of the amount of fuel in the tank - completely stretching it through the car! And here it is the moment of truth - the arrow moved and smoothly went to the middle! When the ignition is on, the remaining fuel lamp lights up and goes out when the diesel engine is started! !

I took off each one and cleaned it of dust and dirt - the condition is not bad, the contacts are slightly oxidized in some places! I cleaned it everywhere - I put the glass on a non-drying sealant, since the sealing gum along the contour is no longer the same! I glued it along the strip of LED-cilia. Here the blocks of turns are not very good - in both, the guide plastics included in the sidewalls of the headlights are broken one by one, but he coped with the entim by melting on the iron plate in the right places! I was pleased with the state of the body under the headlights - and there is no hint of rust! I also found a leak from under the tube of the glass washer reservoir - I planted it more tightly in place. Also, instead of size paws, I installed LEDs.

Grilles covering the speakers on the dashboard

There weren’t any when buying them - there were speakers in the dust - I found a magnificent disassembly from us and yesterday I bought lattices and handles for adjusting the inclination of the backrest of the seats. I lowered the speakers down and put the grilles with difficulty.

Rear View Camera

Installed a rear view camera. In principle, a mirror is not needed.

Armrest for 123 Mercedes

I finally got the armrest! There is some damage to the skin and the color is black. Installation took 5 minutes. Moving closer and closer to the classics!

Clutch cylinder working

the gears turn on for me clearly, but only when the pedal is fully depressed. Is this normal? Previously, it turned on a little, even when it was underpressed. And Full level - and there are no traces of smudges on the main and working cylinders! Maybe a free big stroke due to air?

I restored the status quo. I bled the hydraulic system from the bottom up with a brake fluid syringe: and everything became as before, the clutch actuation somewhere after the middle when going down! But where does the air come from? I think that it can be on the rod of the working cylinder, since there is a little fogging on the bottom of the flange! Probably slowly you need to look for the RCS

Heater repair 123 Mercedes

And again there is something to do - the other day the stove got steamed up and under my feet, as it happens, I threw a hot antifreeze! I traveled without a heater for several days, and today, despite Sunday, God forgive me and help me, I could not stand it and pulled out the right seat and without removing the torpedo and steering wheel, removed the stove in 1.5 hours -Bery stands, swearing more than once! The lower tank was very wet and incredibly clogged with debris - and blades from a once broken fan. Also, the drain tube has a noticeable backlash and is rubbed at the point of contact with the body! Sealant - Use as a sealant on the advice of our esteemed expert - aav33 Henkel's Loctite products. For example, Loctite 5926 - -55.+250 degrees, elastic, Loctite 5910 Loctite 5699 Loctite 5920 - -55.+350 degrees Everyone is not afraid of water, ethylene glycol (antifreeze base), oil-resistant, after hardening - elastic. Seal gaps up to 1m.

Yesterday I installed the stove in place together with an assistant pretty quickly! Today is the day to ride - all alles gut! Dry-warm and nice!

Using the thaw, I installed the silumin heater fender in place, tired of diving under the hood and opening and closing the ball valve! The crane has been moved and repaired - I hope it will serve as isho! Also replaced the grille ducts.

Mercedes 123 interior repair.

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If the car is equipped with a passenger airbag, a detailed description of the removal procedure is given in Section Removal and installation of components of the auxiliary safety system (SRS).

I have a great desire to do a complete restoration of the W123 (230E, 1984, automatic transmission). There are conditions (a large garage + a friend's car service with painting).

I want to ask you for advice and recommendations, for starters - in what sequence to disassemble. I want to dismantle "to the metal", because the body requires some elements to be filled and boiled.

A small detail: I (and the car too) live in Spain, not far from Valencia, so the climate is favorable for repairs.

I promise to post photos of the entire process as it progresses.

MB W123 - explanation I already have a car, it has been standing under a canopy for more than 2 years.It's a pity to see how covered with dust. At one time I bought it from a neighbor, from 2 hands, with a mileage of about 180 thousand, for 600 euros (this was in 2007). And then, as a child, I dreamed about such a car.

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