Do-it-yourself Mercedes 123 interior repair

Hey! I wanted to write about the salon, when I finish with it entirely, but all my efforts are spent on repairs in the house, there is no time for the salon, but I want to tell you, so I'll start with one driver's seat. )))

Almost every 123 driver's seat is rubbed in the same place, on the left, and the springs are often broken and you sit on it tilting a little to the left, it's good if these broken springs don't bite into your fifth point. ))

There are three types of frames, at least at the bottom of them. More precisely, I know three.
1. It was installed on the driver's and passenger seats of the first series and the passenger seats of the second series. Has no coil springs in front, all springs look like this:

2. It was installed on the driver's and passenger seats of the third series and the driver's seats in the second series. There are two coil springs in front.

3. I got caught from a taxi car, with a third series salon. Stood in both the passenger and driver's. There are 4 (!) Coil springs in front, because of this the shape of the second horizontal spring is slightly changed. Also, the three rear springs, which in the normal version are free, are here interconnected by additional springs into a single whole.

Naturally, the third option is much tougher. But I thought that Mercedes cares about its customers, especially before, and this version is for a taxi, where the driver is driving all day. I chose the third option. The passenger seat was completely intact, and I repaired the driver's seat by replacing the broken springs with whole ones. And no rugs, paralons, cardboard boxes placed on you ... How many interesting things I got out of such repaired chairs ... They also love to weld burst springs, I think there is no need, I think, to explain that they will quickly burst next to welding. The most normal of these methods is to put on some kind of pipe, I've seen a lot of this on the drive. It seems to me the most viable option, you don't even need to disassemble the chair. But we will go the other way. ))

Do you want to service your device with your own hands?

Then this is for you. Here we will discuss the problems that can be encountered when repairing a particular unit. Those sections that I personally had to face during almost 5 years of operation of the W123 and sensible advice from people who know certain units well are highlighted. The cars are far from new and require an attentive, and sometimes gentle approach, first of all to the disassembly of the units.

Let's start with the simplest ... That's right - from the instrument.

A good tool is the key to the correct approach to the problem of repair. You shouldn't buy cheap keys of unknown origin. Broken nuts, damaged splines, ruined parts and “keys” - these are the results that can be easily achieved with such a tool.

Medium (not large) set of heads. A suitcase, in which two sets of heads (regular and extended version) for 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 22, 24, ratchet, a set of extensions, a set of short hexagons, a set of screwdriver inserts ...

The set is German, has already broken the running heads at 17, 24. I'm going to replenish it by the piece. Of the cheap sets, one of the most affordable and reliable are our Russian head sets. In addition to a worthless ratchet, it is quite possible to work with a set.

Combined keys (open-end-cap) 8, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 24. These keys are from my firm Travel keys. Must be reliable and of high quality. Keys are not cheap ($ 8-13 apiece). Amazing strength and precision of manufacturing with a small size of the working surface and low weight! Lifetime warranty. I bought 1-2-3 a month.I think they have already paid for themselves with the cost of unspoiled nuts and bolts, saving time and nerves, and enjoying their work ...

In addition, a 10 spanner wrench is ideal for loosening the lower front shock absorber bolts. The sleeve for 12 is a great help for the exhaust manifold on the 102nd engine. Since the head is made of aluminum, you shouldn't mess around with hairpins for a long time.

At 13 - well, quite running, should be good.

Key for upper mounting of shock absorbers. A very useful thing. Made by yourself. The drawing is attached.

Tubular key for 8-10. For unscrewing all kinds of screws.

Box key for 11 with a cut (I have a fakomovsky). For loosening brake and fuel hoses and bleeding the brakes and clutch.

Long hexagon 14. For unscrewing the oil level check plug in the rear axle and gearbox.

Short (under the head), preferably a firm __ hexagon for unscrewing the bolts securing the front brake discs. Efforts are very good.

Hammer. A good hammer never hurts. The old way to unscrew difficult connections is to first hit with a short hammer.

A special and not often required tool:

Hydraulic jack. Very useful when removing - installing the rear suspension (gearbox, springs, beam), work on replacing the engine mountings, etc.

An ordinary Zhiguli internal spring stripper. Perfect for compressing front springs on a git. Recommend. Abundant lubrication of the rubbing parts is highly desirable.

Amplifier. Quite simply, a fairly long piece of pipe to enhance gentle efforts.

For those who ride on tubeless tires, a small repair kit might not be superfluous. Includes a needle with a handle, a spiral awl, glue, cords for repair. Allows you to quickly and efficiently seal breakdowns. With a certain skill, it can be repaired without removing the wheels and even maintain some pressure in the tire.

I have been using the “TECH” set for 3 years already (this is how they work in car services). Several times I was very helpful, especially in rural areas (where tubeless cameras are not repaired). The set included 5 more cans of compressed air, supposedly allowing one wheel to be inflated. Used it in extreme cases and was very satisfied. Cylinders are expensive, it is better to have a pump.

Before using it, it is worth practicing on "rabbits" to correctly wind the needle so as not to break it at the most inopportune moment. You need to wind up carefully and at an angle to the disc, otherwise it loves to break.

Any Chinese sets of similar equipment are DIRECTLY CONTRAINDICATED, because apart from the killed time, they do not represent anything useful (I tried it).

In St. Petersburg, all this is sold by the company "E-Line", PO Box 63, tel. 325-35-12, 112-18-82.

Problems with undercharging the battery. - (NEW!)

Common enough on W123 and W126. It consists in a leakage of current, and not by plus, but by minus (poor contact between the minus of the generator and the body). Although there are a lot of "mass" wires, it will not be superfluous, instead of a thin wire that connects the generator body and the engine block, to conduct a more decent one and connect the generator body and the car body. I have a wire from the generator attached with the same bolt as the negative terminal of the battery. The result was not long in coming.

Several serious points.

The sore spot is the lower mount of the shock absorbers. The fastening bolts sour in the lever and twist when unscrewed. Therefore, it is worth changing the shock absorbers for the first time in a place where, with such an ambush, you can drill it all out or heat it up and unscrew it. The bolts should be lubricated during assembly.

The weak point is the springs. Over time, they sag and burst. Attempts to put on new relatives led to an interesting result - for two seasons. After that I tried to put on the body from the 140th and the problems disappeared. It is advisable to use springs cat. number 140 324 05 04 (they are softer). I put the springs on the first spacers (one risk). It is highly desirable to use in tandem with shock absorbers from W126.They can be changed quite simply without any pullers after removing the shock absorbers and calipers by unscrewing the beam mounting bolts (either in the middle or alternately from the edges)

If the beam cushions have not changed for a very long time or the fastening bolt has not been unscrewed for a long time, then it is quite possible that you will have to work a lot before you can unscrew it. The trouble is that from time to time the cushion mounting bolt and cushion corrode (different metals) and sour tightly. If this happens, and all the soaps and Unisma do not help, you will have to take a larger pipe and use this tool to unscrew the bolt. In this case, as a rule, a pillow for replacement (it comes off from the base). Yes, you shouldn't do this if you don't have a replacement pillow. In order to prevent this from happening again, during assembly, the bolt should be lubricated, and the hole in the pillow too.

Replacing a wheel bearing requires a special wrench. A homemade one (from a pipe) broke down very quickly, and a firm one costs $ 30. When I changed it to a new one, I unscrewed it with an impact screwdriver (fortunately, the new kit contains both a nut and a washer).

Replacing the front brake discs

There is nothing complicated. For easier and safer loosening of the bolts securing the brake disc to the hub, it is advisable to screw the already removed hub to the wheel (more convenient than any vice).

Probably every owner of W123 has encountered a backlash in the steering mechanism, or rather in the steering gear. Cars are far from new and over time the backlash from not being noticed becomes more noticeable and noticeable, growing into annoying. In addition to checking the level and recommendations to deal with the steering at a specialized car service, the service book does not say anything, although, like any unit, it is worthy of attention and requires relatively little maintenance.

There are two completely different options for solving the problem:

Try it yourself just to remove the gap by adjusting the screw. The idea is not easy, because the place is very inconvenient, but it gives a tangible temporary result. How long the adjustment will last is a rather interesting question, since it depends on the condition of the gearbox and the number of adjustments to your

Fight this by looking for a normal gearbox. With a deeper study of the problem, it turned out that the worm and gears of this device have a wear-resistant cemented layer, designed for the entire service life of the car. As soon as the layer starts to break down, wear goes several times faster. Therefore, additional adjustment (initially the clearance was adjusted at the factory) of the clearance only INCREASES THE DYING PROCESS of the steering gear.

Conclusions: if it is not possible to purchase a normal gearbox and you want to keep the existing one, you should not abuse the clearance adjustment and, if possible, abandon it altogether.

Conservation efforts can concentrate on changing the power steering fluid and checking the steering damper more often, as it softens the shock transmitted to the power steering from the suspension and significantly extends the life of the steering.

Didn't complain much. Plant always well and without problems in any frost. From constant starts and twists at the maximum, the camshaft began to make a louder noise (after about a year), although nothing bad was noticed except for the “diesel” sound. When operating at high speeds, he likes to bite off oil.

The weak point of the W123 with this engine is the exhaust manifold. It, in almost all cars, cracks or warps. Later, in later models, the manifold was made with three fasteners in the area of ​​the fourth cylinder, which improved the design. Cracks can be welded, but not for very long. It all depends on the welder. They cooked me with gas. The warped collector was ground on the machine. Enough for half a year (again in the area of ​​the fourth cylinder led, began to siphon through the gasket).

I haven't picked it yet. It works reliably enough. It starts badly in extreme frosts. on 92 gasoline. At home 98 there are no problems.

The only thing that was noticed was a slight problem due to the distributor cover.If it does not start well and podtraitsya in wet weather or does not start after washing the engine - first of all, it is the distributor cover that needs to be processed from the inside with a moisture displacer.

P.S. After replacing the cover with a new one, all problems disappeared, although the old one still captivates with its very decent appearance.

Automatic transmission.

Good advice for use. Courtesy of GMA

Sport mode as such during normal driving does not lead to any particular wear on both the gearbox and the engine.

The car accelerates from 0 to 200, for example, equally quickly regardless of whether the so-called. "Sport mode" or not.

Fuel consumption, oddly enough, very little depends on how fast you drive in 3rd gear. 100 km / h or 4th.

It’s not the “sport modes” that ruin the box, but:

switching when "gas to the floor"

toggle down when speed is high

low or high oil level

harsh driving on an overheated box

driving in "borderline" modes between gears on gearboxes, where there is little "hysteresis"

driving with very frequent switching

Playing with the gas pedal

"Gas flow" during upshift

sharp "gas discharge" at the moment of switching "down"

constant driving with "slippage"

engaging reverse gear at a speed of more than + 1-2 km / h

inclusion of forward modes at a speed of more (minus 1-2) km / h

switching front / rear at increased engine speed (> 1000-1200 depending on the type of box)

riding on an unheated box at any temperature

towing a car with automatic transmission over long distances

towing a car with automatic transmission at high speed

simultaneous use of the gas and brake pedals

operation of the automatic transmission in tandem with a "triple" motor

operation of automatic transmission paired with “crispy” CV joints

frequent starting off in higher gears (on gearboxes that basically allow it)

long driving on automatic transmissions, which are in “protected modes”

further driving on an obviously faulty box

when starting off, gas supply BEFORE the car received a tangible push forward as a result of engaging the gear

"Nudging" shifts by adding gas with the pedal

driving on low-quality old oil

driving with frequent locks / unlocks of the hydrotransmission (on automatic transmissions, where available)

driving on oil that does not correspond to the manual (dexron instead of dexron-II, for example)

a sharp gas supply after braking by the engine when the forced lower gear is engaged

driving with an overheated engine

harsh driving on a freshly repaired automatic transmission

fast sharp backward ride

driving about your business, when you have to go to the service.

Since the coupe is a fairly rare car, things like power windows are a rather vulnerable option. New ones cost money and are not small, so you need to repair the old ones.

What can you do with a window regulator that has cut teeth (usually 3-4 teeth) and cracked the housing (usually right in the middle of the feed gear)?

Repair will give nothing if you do not find the reason. As far as I understand, the cause of the breakage is the difficult movement of the glass. The coupe has no guides along the entire course (no frame) and the brackets play the role of guides (on the sides of the glass at the bottom). I replaced the plastic inserts with elastic bands in the brackets (they are ordered separately 4 pcs. Per side), adjusted the slope, lubricated it and the glass became much easier to walk.

New ones are welded onto broken and bent teeth by semi-automatic welding, which are then processed and adjusted to normal sizes. The success of the operation depends on the qualifications of the welder. I'm lucky to have one. Weld teeth have been running for 8 months. Do not try to do this with electric welding - the result is much worse.

A cracked body made of colored (some kind of aluminum alloy) is also cooked, but with argon. It brews well. It is worth taking a close look at the case for cracks, since, as a rule, the case is not limited to one obvious one. Small and inconspicuous then grow into large and all the work down the drain.

Ștefan 16 April 2014 - 19:24

Attention: I found this instruction on the Internet, this is not my job, but just a repost of what I found on the site

As many owners know, 123, like other old Mercedes, have a problem with the seats, or rather, with their springs and horse hair, which from old age are poured onto the floor, which is why the car needs to be cleaned almost every day.
This method of replacing horsehair with modern material is a solution to the problem with sagging springs, which is why it sits on the seat like a ball of water.
Many people solve the problem by replacing seats from the 124th Mercedes or from BMW.
But this is expensive and not beautiful.

I will not sprinkle the procedure for removing the seats themselves, I think everyone has already removed at least once and there is nothing difficult.

After disassembling the seats and removing the trim, I recommend replacing horse hair (coconut) with a material called Izolon, which costs a penny in construction materials stores.

In order to compensate for the springs that have settled down for their long service life and age, install an artificial material between the springs intended for pipe insulation. Construction materials are sold in the same stores.

Izolon which can replace the coconut in the seats. Attach a piece of isolon to the size of the padding and cut neatly to size.

To compensate for the buoyancy of the seat, it is worth installing a tubular material from isolon. See the picture for an example.

A tubular isolon can also be installed along the edges of the seat to reinforce the sides of the seat.

This is what the seat looks like after resuscitation.

The seat will immediately become stiffer and more comfortable, as well as stop swaying like in waves.

vitaly 28.02.2010 11:44

vitaly 28.02.2010 11:49

6A3AP 28.02.2010 15:14

vitaly 01.03.2010 22:12

danila69 01.03.2010 23:33

This is just a motor (as far as I know) and even then it is somehow cheap. (although I was just asking the price for a long time)
plus karabas,
brain
gearbox there are all sorts of universal joints.
xs
it seems to me that this is not a lifting volume of work.

6A3AP 02.03.2010 14:19

Dr. Diesel 02.03.2010 19:53

Dr. Diesel 02.03.2010 20:44

The original color is very beautiful. No. 501 orientrot.

My first new MB was exactly the same color and also 200 D. Something I was distracted.

Is it planned to bring the car up to its original state?
The package bundle is not bad, considering that it is 200 D.

Was the salon changed or original?

vitaly 02.03.2010 22:06

Dr. Diesel wrote: The original color is very beautiful. No. 501 orientrot.

My first new MB was exactly the same color and also 200 D. Something I was distracted.

Is it planned to bring the car up to its original state?
The package bundle is not bad, considering that it is 200 D.

Was the salon changed or original?

Dr. Diesel 02.03.2010 22:14

Good luck to you, tk. this is not entirely rewarding.

danila69 02.03.2010 22:19

6A3AP 03.03.2010 09:45

mixaelw123 02.04.2010 22:05

vitaly 05.04.2010 09:18

vitaly 09.09.2010 13:54

vitaly 09.09.2010 13:57

vitaly 09.09.2010 13:59

mixaelw123 12.09.2010 20:32

vitaly 13.09.2010 10:23

vitaly 02.12.2010 16:59

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TriveR 19 Mar 2009

From December to March, work began.

There will be work with the rear arches, setting gaps, welding the inner threshold, painting and assembly.
Well and much more. Shumka, suspension repair, exhaust replacement, acoustics (rearrangement of the trunk), installation of an already painted BBS skirt (all spare parts are available)
Now I will lay out everything in the process. (Sori for the confusion of thoughts and for an unprofessional description of what has been done and I do not want negative statements, there is no way to do it differently, but there is a desire)
I'll insert the photo later.

Post has been editedTriveR: 19 March 2009 - 01:27

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TriveR 19 Mar 2009

General information
VIN WDB1231201A138149
Model 200 D
Chassis (body) number 1231201A138149
Engine number 615940 10 359783
Gearbox number 716214 00 012185
Order number 0 3 209 03165
Optics manufacturer HELLA
Cab 03325
Approximate year of manufacture 1983 (3rd production series)
Dealer branch Kiel (209)
Interior upholstery Fabric pine green (056)

Years of issue 1984
Displacement 1988 cc (according to tax formula 1971 cc)
Power 60 HP / 44 kW at 4400 rpm
Number of cylinders / arrangement 4 / in-line
Rear wheel drive
Length 4725
Width 1786
Weight 1920 kg (not 1910, but 1920)

Body color
803 - riedgrun (green moss) (T) (from 01/01/1982 to 12/31/1986)

Option codes
466 Central locking system (from 01.04.1970 to 31.10.1993)
504 Electrically adjustable right outside mirror (from 01.11.1978 to 29.02.1986)
534 Mechanical antenna without radio (from 01/01/1963 to 11/30/1990) (installed on the front fender, because the model is diesel)
591 Athermal glass around the perimeter, back single-layer with heating, Germany
(from 01.01.1972) (rear heated glass is included in the list of standard equipment)
876 Limit switches for rear doors and lighting above the rear window (from 07/01/1964 to 10/31/1993) (standard option on 280/280 E models, as well as for all coupe and station wagon models)
Salon
7602ab9480e.jpg

Post has been editedTriveR: 19 March 2009 - 18:42

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TriveR 19 Mar 2009

Cut out the excess.

Trying on the threshold and rack

You can read about what the w123224D car is for the driver and passengers in the previous review! Nothing has changed in a year. Thousands of kilometers do not diminish comfort: the car, after starting up from a pot, says-so-so-so-so-so-so-so-so-so-so-so-so-so-so-so-so-so-so-so-so-so-and did not go away-notice-but did not go. and smooth on the go, as when I bought it exactly a year ago. The engine has not lost its power - I would even say that the car has become more jovial, all the same, the piston is new and rubbing in, the gearbox is also all alles gut and you also completely imperceptibly click the gears as before ... Sometimes it seems that time is beyond the control of this car and it is going now as well as when 34 years ago I left the Stuttgart car dealership as a brand new one!

… The course is soft, the cabin is quiet, the panels do not creak. The reversal is almost in place, everything is soundly. Nothing really breaks. Not very prestigious, but not shameful either. And most importantly, I get a thrill from the ride! He walks like a Merse, on the pads of his fingers, like a lynx ... Well, Merce, how else can he walk. For all this I love. And I think I will not change this brand. Although a person assumes, but ...

1-Completely cleaned the seat covers

I didn't get in touch with Vanish - I bought Melam interior cleaner and the result is taking place!

2-Found a tree that has been installed since 1982 as standard on a Mercedes123 and installed-Zebrano and the whole tree on an ashtray in the tunnel.

Fuel quantity sensor

Finally, he defeated his main enemy, namely a non-working fuel indicator and a reserve of fuel that was constantly burning with a devilish red eye! I purchased the tidy mainly because of this, and it turned out that it did not show either, but the reason was in the wiring to the sensor in the tank! I replaced one wire - the blue one from the G sensor contact, going to the 3rd contact of the tidy connector and responsible for the indicator of the amount of fuel in the tank - completely stretching through the car! And here it is the moment of truth - the arrow moved and smoothly went to the middle! When the ignition is on, the fuel residual lamp burns and goes out when the diesel engine starts! !

I took off each one and cleaned it of dust and dirt, the condition is not bad, the contacts are slightly oxidized in some places! I cleaned the glasses everywhere, I put them on a non-drying sealant, since the sealing gums around the contour are not the same! I glued along the strip of LED-cilia. The signal is connected to the dimensions - additional light will not interfere ! Here the cornering blocks are not very tight - in both, the plastic guides included in the sidewalls of the headlights are broken, but he also coped with the enty by melting on the iron plate in the right places! I was pleased with the state of the body under the headlights - and there is no hint of rust! I also found a leak from under the tube of the glass washer reservoir, put it in place more tightly. Also, instead of size paws, I installed LEDs.

Grilles covering the speakers on the dashboard

It wasn’t there when buying them, there were dynamics in dust, I found a magnificent disassembly with us and yesterday I bought grilles and handles regulating the inclination of the backrest of the seats. I lowered the speakers down and put the grilles down with difficulty.

Rear View Camera

Installed a rear-view camera. A mirror, in principle, is not necessary. Parking radar - especially the sound increasing accompaniment when reversing helps

Armrest for 123 Mercedes

I finally got an armrest! There is a little damage to the skin and the color is black Installation took 5 minutes. Moving closer and closer to the classics!

Working clutch cylinder

The gears are switched on clearly, but only when the pedals are fully depressed. Is this normal? Previously, it was as if a little and when they were not pressed, they turned on. And Full level - and there are no traces of smudges on the main and working cylinders! Maybe a big free move because of the air?

Restored the status quo. Bleed the hydraulic system from the bottom up with a syringe with brake fluid: and everything became as before - clutch engagement somewhere after the middle during the downstroke! But where does the air come from? I think it can be on the rod of the robot cylinder, since there is a slight fogging on the bottom of the flange!

Repair of a heater 123 Mercedes

And again there is something to do - the other day I steamed the stove and threw a hot toosolchik under my feet, as it happens! I traveled without a heater for several days and today, despite Sunday, God forgive me and help me, I couldn’t resist and tore out the right seat and without removing the torpedo and steering wheel for 1.5 hours removed the stove -Bery worth it, swearing more than once! The lower tank was very wet and clogged with incredibly debris, and the blades from a fan that was once broken, also the drain tube has a noticeable backlash and is rubbed at the point of contact with the body! I washed it with chemistry and watched an uncontrollable black-red eruption of dirt and all kinds of slag! Sealant - Use as a sealant on the advice of our respected expert - Henkel's aav33 Loctite family. For example, Loctite 5926 - -55. + 250 degrees, elastic, Loctite 5910 Loctite 5699 Loctite 5920 - -55. +350 degrees Everyone is not afraid of water, ethylene glycol (antifreeze bases), oil-resistant, after hardening - elastic. Seals the gap up to 1 m.

Yesterday I installed the stove in place together with an assistant pretty quickly! Today is the day for a ride - all alles gut! It's dry, warm and pleasant!

Taking advantage of the thaw, I installed the silumin fender of the heater in place - I'm tired of diving under the hood and opening and closing the ball valve! The crane has been moved and repaired - I hope it will serve isho! Also replaced the air duct grilles.

Mercedes 123, interior repair.

Repair of the fuel sensor on Mercedes w123