Do-it-yourself adobe house repair outside

In detail: do-it-yourself adobe house repair outside from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Hello Semenych! It so happened that I bought an adobe house in Adygea with two children and moved. The house is in dire need of repair, help and even advice is not expected from anyone here, and even stressful with finances. I decided with my sons (13 and 14 years old) to repair it myself, but, of course, there is no necessary knowledge. Help us, please, Semenych! We removed the floor, decided to fill it with gravel, make a screed on top, then a warm water floor and tiles. I want to make the ceilings a little higher, so we cover the foundation with gravel, and we want to remove the logs on which the floorboards lay, but I can’t understand if they still perform some function in this house.

Sincerely, Irina, h. Tikhonov.

You are a risky woman, but risk is a noble cause.

If your sons will help you, then you can handle it and they can make excellent men.

Building an adobe house is an exotic, albeit labor-intensive, business. But the environment will be on top. Do not just add organics to adobe. The British, unlike our southern neighbors, do not do this either. Clay, straw, sand, water, casting molds and your labor, this is enough.

Since you have access to the Internet, you can find answers to most of your questions in the relevant sections on the construction of adobe houses.

Therefore, I see no point in expanding on this topic in detail.

As for the genital lags, they most likely served as the basis of the floor. Clear a space around one of them to see how they were fixed and what they rested on. Most often, logs are walled up (embedded) in the walls of the house and rest on columns made of stone (brick, concrete, buta, etc.).

Video (click to play).

Accordingly, the logs are treated with bioprotective compounds from rot and all sorts of bugs. And they also have waterproofing, that is, roofing material (or rubemast, stekloizol or their analogues) is placed on the posts under the logs. And in the places of laying in the walls - they also turn into a couple of layers with them.

Just take out the logs and pour a layer of gravel instead of the floor? They did it in the old days. And not only gravel was used. And just ordinary land was well rammed and lived like that.

If everything is done correctly, according to the appropriate building technologies, then the floor should rest on a reliable foundation. That is, on the mentioned pillars-supports. Otherwise, floor movements, especially tiled ones, are possible. With a possible violation of the pipes used in the installation of warm water floors.

Therefore, it is necessary to find these supports, if any. Make them if they don't exist. As a last resort, make sure that your gravel layer will not move anywhere and will not sag. Then make a concrete screed with a thickness of at least 50 millimeters with its reinforcement with reinforcement or welded mesh.

Try to get the ends of the welded mesh cards into the walls of the house by five centimeters. The mesh should cover the entire surface of the floor. Separate grid cards must be tied together with knitting wire. It is enough to take its diameter of 1 or 1.5 millimeters. It is sold in bays.

/ A welded mesh map is a rectangle made of wire with a diameter of one and a half, two millimeters, up to 4 - 5, superimposed on each other in the form of rectangles or squares and welded together. /

The sequence of operations is pouring a layer of concrete 2.5 centimeters, then laying the mesh, then again pouring another 2.5 centimeters of concrete.

Then you will get a solid base for laying floor tiles and for laying pipes for water when installing a warm floor. As well as installing furniture and everything else.No risk of breaking the floor.

Here is the shortest answer to your question.

Yes, don't forget to make sure there is no basement under your house! So that, God forbid, the whole screed does not fall into it with all your labors.

Other questions on the topic of adobe houses:

Our site is regularly updated with interesting and unique materials and articles on the topic of lumber, building materials and work, the author's opinion and knowledge of a real coven worker with more than 15 years of experience is provided. There is a section - funny stories of covenants. If you would like to receive information about this, subscribe to our newsletter. We guarantee that your address will not be passed on to third parties.

We have an adobe house, due to circumstances we have to repair it ourselves. The problem is that the side (blind) wall is curved, that is, the belly. We want to cover the house with siding, and it is in this place that we cannot set up racks. The wall needs to be chopped off by 20-25 cm. But it’s scary, suddenly the wall will not withstand the load from the roof (the length of the wall is 13 m, the “belly” is about 4 meters in the middle). I wanted to know if it is possible to cut adobe at all? And yet, with what you can plaster adobe from modern materials, there is simply clay, but sawdust, shells, and chaff cannot be found. Sand does not fit clay, they say it will burst.

Thank you in advance, Angela, Krasnodar region.

Hello, Angela from Krasnodar!

Decorative siding of adobe houses has recently been practiced quite often.

Although it is not entirely clear, if you are going to install siding, then why then plaster adobe walls?

What is adobe? This is clay (medium fat, oily or very oily) and it is taken depending on the fat content per unit volume / for example, per 1 cubic meter / from 1 to 4 parts /. Sand - 1 part. Fibrous fillers take (also depending on the fat content of clay) from 8 to 18 kilograms. Sometimes they also use sawdust, shells, chaff, which you are talking about.

Purely for plastering adobe walls, a lime-clay mortar is taken (1 part of lime, 1 part of clay, 0.5 parts of chaff, chaff, etc.).

Therefore, plastering only in the presence of clay and sand is not possible.

There are no modern substitutes for such plaster. At least they are unknown to me. Although you can experiment and eventually find something suitable.

The famous Avicenna once said “do no harm!”, I mean, it’s not worth destroying the “belly” of a wall that protrudes tens of centimeters beyond its dimensions. This can lead to collapses, especially with such a large house. 14 meters of the length of the wall is impressive. Typically, the roof in such buildings rests on a strapping belt (usually made of wood) along the top of the wall. And if you reduce the thickness of the wall over 4 meters, then if not the entire roof, but only in this place, can sag. Do you need it?

In my opinion, you should make a decorative protrusion in this place where there is a “belly”. That is, you make a frame for siding along the section of the wall to its “belly” in one plane. Then you retreat to the mentioned maximum 25 centimeters and install the frame for the entire four meter length of the ledge. Then, after the ledge, continue to frame the wall as in its very beginning.

The resulting two inner and two outer corners of the ledge are decorated with siding inner and outer corners. In the worst case, just siding strips (“ji-elements”), which is cheaper. As a result, you will get a ledge of the wall hidden by the siding. If desired, you can make it symmetrical with respect to the length of the entire wall. An outsider, unfamiliar with your difficulties, looking at the wall and does not understand at all what is there, and how. A protrusion is a protrusion.

This is my take on the answer to your question. Maybe someone will advise and more efficient.

Other questions on the topic of adobe houses:

Our site is regularly updated with interesting and unique materials and articles on the topic of lumber, building materials and work, the author's opinion and knowledge of a real coven worker with more than 15 years of experience is provided. There is a section - funny stories of covenants. If you would like to receive information about this, subscribe to our site's newsletter. We guarantee that your address will not be passed on to third parties.

If you own an old adobe house, do not despair, because in principle there is nothing wrong with restoration. Knowing how to put everything in order, you can repair an old adobe house on your own and without problems. In fact, an adobe house is a building made of clay, that is, unbaked raw brick, which, if possible, was lined around the perimeter with ordinary brick.

Like any repair, it all starts with an inspection of the building, drawing up a work plan, estimates and purchasing the necessary materials. If you are not sure that you can carry out all the work yourself, then it is better, of course, to turn to qualified workers. The main elements of any residential building are the foundation, walls and roof, so we will consider everything in order.

In adobe buildings, the classical foundation was rarely used, that is, the walls of the house were erected on a compacted clay pillow. Or, in the variant of the adobe structure, wooden poles were hammered into the ground, which were subsequently coated with clay. When examining the building, if you see the presence of cracks on the walls, the difference is at the level of window openings, then with a 100% guarantee we can say that the house has shrunk and it is necessary to repair the foundation under the walls.

Option to strengthen the foundation of an adobe house

To do this, trenches are dug along the walls, but not in a continuous strip, but with a step approximately equal to one meter and a depth of about 0.6 m. Waterproofing is done along the lower edge of the adobe blocks. Foundation sections are laid in problem areas (the easiest option is reinforced concrete or sand-cement blocks). After that, waterproofing is necessarily done around the entire perimeter and a blind area is constructed.

One of the main problems of adobe walls is that after a long time the “belly” appears: bumps and bulges appear on their surface. If such irregularities up to two centimeters in size, you can try to clean them up, and when there are more, it’s better not to risk it, but think about how you can cover them (in the case of a facade, you can use siding, drywall inside).

Plastering adobe walls inside the house

During the construction of adobe houses, all floors were mainly made of wood. Therefore, it is necessary to assess the condition of the floor beams and if they are in a deplorable state, they need to be completely changed. Of course, this is a large amount of work, since in this case it will be necessary to disassemble the roof, replace the entire piping and make new wooden floors.

The roofs of such houses used to be covered with what was at hand: from reeds to ceramic tiles. When restoring an old roof, the first thing to start with is to inspect the entire wooden structure. If necessary, replace dilapidated elements and process the entire crate, for example, with mastic.

Before starting the repair of the roof, it is necessary to carefully examine all its elements.

If the old roof is tiled, it is advisable to replace it with a lighter material, since, having a large weight, it creates an undesirably large load on the entire structure of the house.

When deciding to carry out a complete reconstruction of the building in the first place, never neglect the advice of specialists. Since out of ignorance you can cause irreparable harm to the entire building, which will ultimately affect your budget.

Before proceeding to the consideration of the field of use of adobe, it is necessary to indicate what this material is. So, adobe is an environmentally friendly material. It is made from a mixture of straw, clay and sand. All this is diluted with water.It has long been known that buildings made of adobe are very durable and of high quality. And thanks to its many advantages, residents get a comfortable pastime, comfort and warmth. But in order to get the long-awaited and desired result, it is worth carefully studying all the nuances when using adobe.

Every person who plans to make repairs should know that houses made of adobe, in addition to being very durable, have some other advantages. First of all, you will find real comfort in the room. Indeed, due to its properties, the house will be cool in summer, and very warm in winter. Saman accumulates solar heat and energy during the day and gives them to the room at night.

Do not forget about the low cost of such a building material. Among the entire existing range, adobe is perhaps the most budgetary. For residents of many countries, including Europe, this is an important factor.

Of course, for many people it is somewhat incomprehensible how to use such a mixture to make a truly high-quality house that can serve its residents for a long time. But thanks to a few tips on using adobe, you can achieve excellent results.

In order for the walls of adobe to retain their durability and strength, you need to carefully select the plaster. It has long been known that adobe is not very resistant to moisture. Under the influence of dampness, rain, high humidity, the walls lose their shape, swell, and with waterproof plaster you will extend the life of your home.

But be sure to remember that you should not use cement plaster. This material has a vapor barrier, so the walls will not be able to "breathe", moisture will not be able to evaporate, but will linger inside. As a result, the liquid will begin to flow down the inner surface of the cement and this will adversely affect the durability of the house.

As practice shows, the most suitable link for adobe is a solution of lime and sand. It is very easy to prepare if you know the right consistency. The ratio of lime to sand should be 1 to 5. If you have a very thick layer of plaster, then this mixture is perfect. As a finishing treatment, it is worth using the same solution of lime and sand, but in a different ratio - 1: 1.

To level the walls, eliminate all imperfections and recesses, you can use a special solution, in which it is customary to add straw or sawdust. Such a procedure will not only eliminate irregularities in the room, but also strengthen the walls, extend the life of the coating. Also, you do not need to use a plaster mesh.

As for the use of plaster indoors, you can use a mixture based on gypsum.

Preparing for plastering

To perform quality work, you need to know what actions should be taken for a good result.

First of all, the walls of adobe must be covered several times with a primer, which tends to penetrate deep inside. This will protect the walls from microorganisms and strengthen them. And also with the help of a primer, the plaster sticks to the walls better.

Further, it is recommended to apply shingles to the walls of adobe. It consists of thin wooden planks, which are nailed at a small distance from each other (approximately 5 mm). In this case, the first layer of shingles should be located at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the horizontal. The second layer is nailed perpendicular to the first, at the same distance of one plank from the next. But it is worth noting that the procedure is quite laborious and not always feasible. Therefore, shingles are not always applied.

Having carefully prepared the walls, you can begin to plaster them. Initially, a solution of sand and lime should be applied to the entire surface. About how to do it correctly, we mentioned above.

The next step is to apply the plaster itself. The first layer should be no thinner than 1 centimeter. In this case, the plaster should be applied as evenly as possible. To do this, it is necessary to apply building material to the wall by sketching. Next, you need to give the coating time to dry, but be sure to make sure that it is still soft and pliable enough. Then it follows with a wooden object, for example, a grater, to level it.

Next, you need to apply a second, the same thickness, layer of plaster. Pre-moisten the first layer with water and you can proceed to the second run. Depending on what result you want to get, at the end you can level the coating. If, on the contrary, you want to observe naturalness, natural unevenness and roughness, then you can not touch the plaster and let it harden in the form in which you applied it.

The final step is the application of decorative plaster. It is made from sand and lime. You can add paint to this solution and give the walls the desired shade. But it should be remembered that you need to choose high-quality dyes that will retain color, brightness and saturation for a long time.

Recall once again why it is worth using adobe as a covering for the house. Despite the fact that you will have to spend a lot of time and effort to create a home, as a result you will get a quality house, from an environmentally friendly product at a fairly low price. And it will be pleasant for you to be in it both in winter and in summer, despite the intense heat, frost or wind.

Quite often we are asked about the plastering of our house and wall coverings (inside and outside). I will try to tell a little more about the plastering of an adobe house in this article.

Let's remember the spring of 2014. The house is finally built, the adobe walls have dried out, the wheat sprouts on the walls have withered - you can start finishing.

I must say that the walls erected using the light adobe technology turn out to be quite breathable. This is especially felt during strong winds)) The first winter, while the walls were drying, we felt it in full. And in the spring, as soon as it got warmer, they started plastering the walls. We already had experience using clay plaster, and clay was at hand, so we did not think long about choosing a plaster mixture.

Raindrops on the wall. At first, the walls steadfastly resisted the weather.

ADVANTAGES OF CLAY PLASTER: availability and low cost - the material, one might say, lies right under your feet, environmental friendliness, hypoallergenicity, fire safety. Absorbs unpleasant smells, allows walls to "breathe". Can be used as finishing material.

COMPOSITION OF THE MIXTURE is simple - it is clay, sand and water. I also added some plaster. It allows you to adjust the shade of the plaster mixture - makes it lighter. And with it, the solution dries faster.

Application of a rough layer of plaster. Clay sticks "to death". You can then tear it off only with a piece of the wall.

The proportions of sand and clay are selected depending on the "fat content" of the clay, and it may differ in composition even in two neighboring areas. If you plaster with greasy clay, i.e. with a small admixture of sand - the plaster will crack when dried. If the solution is "skinny", i.e. too much sand - the plaster will turn out loose and loose.
Much has been written on the Internet how to determine the fat content of clay - by rolling balls or sausages, but there are no clear recommendations on how much sand to add in the end, so I immediately experimented on the wall. The result was a proportion of 1x2.5 (one bucket of clay and two and a half sand). Before that, in an old house in the city, we used a 1x4 mixture for plastering. We add quite a bit of gypsum to the solution, somewhere - 1/8 of a bucket (the more, the lighter the solution). Clay can first be soaked in a container in which the solution is mixed, and diluted with water to a homogeneous consistency, without lumps.And then add sand.

Correct consistency. )) The solution is not too thick, but it does not drain from the trowel either.

If the clay is dry and crumbly, you can, after removing or crushing large lumps, immediately mix with sand and gypsum, and then add water. Then, after preparation, the solution should be allowed to stand for a while so that all the clay particles get wet.

The mixture is diluted with water to the consistency of "thick sour cream". We applied the rough layer directly on the adobe wall, i.e., to put it mildly, on a non-smooth surface, and made the solution thinner - this way it penetrates better into all the depressions, crevices and, after drying, it adheres very firmly to the wall, and it is more convenient for the finishing layer make a thicker solution.

Smoothing uneven plaster walls. Simply put, with a wet sponge. )) Only a dense, hard sponge is needed.

So that the finished wall does not crumble, crumble and does not erode when water enters, we fixed it with a primer. They managed to try different primers, from different manufacturers - both acrylic, and latex, and concentrate, and ready-made solutions. In my opinion there is no difference. Not a single crack formed on the walls during the operation, it does not crumble anywhere, does not exfoliate. When water hits the walls, it rolls down and is not absorbed. By the way, the stones with which we lined the walls in the kitchen were attached to the same solution of clay and sand. So far none of them have bounced.

Finishing the kitchen - clay and stones.

This is for interior decoration.

With external walls it is more difficult. We also plastered them with clay and covered them with a water-repellent primer. We used a more concentrated primer, tried to moisten it deeper and better saturate the walls with it. The final layer of plaster was applied to the plaster mesh.

At the end of August 2014, our house began to transform... Light adobe is covered with clay beauty.

The result pleased us at first. Both appearance and stability. The walls withstood rain and temperature fluctuations. But one of the walls was less fortunate than the others. The primer could not resist the prolonged slanting rain for a long time, and gradually the plaster began to soak. There was a frost at night, and in the morning in the sun the plaster began to fall off in flakes. True, only the topmost layer and not over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe wall, with small specks. Nothing terrible, but the view turned out to be unsightly. So the house stood until spring. The other three walls were not affected by the weather at all.

With the onset of heat, all the remaining plaster had to be peeled off on the south wall. Re-fixed the plaster mesh and plastered with a standard cement-based mortar as a finishing layer. I fixed it with a primer and covered it with two layers of exterior acrylic paint on top. I also painted the rest of the walls. So our house became a cheerful peach color.

Andrey finishes painting the last piece of the wall.
True, then they covered it with another layer of paint. ))

In general, for interiors, for my taste, clay plaster is ideal. And the outer walls either need to be protected from slanting rains - one-story houses should be made and with large roof slopes in the direction of the prevailing winds, or other materials should be used.

You can, of course, experiment with the old "grandfather" methods. For example, covering the walls with lime. But it hurts too much - it’s better not to lean against such a wall, and it requires constant renewal (we had the experience of “communication” with whitewashed walls, we didn’t want to repeat it here). And you can mix the mortar with horse manure - manure reinforces the plaster mixture well, prevents it from cracking and, it seems, makes it more moisture resistant. But we have not yet had time to test this technology. We went the easier way - we used a special plaster mesh to reinforce the finishing layer.

P.S. More photos of our house and the construction process here (we will replenish the album)

We wish you, friends, to build your own beautiful cozy and eco-friendly home in the Kin's Estate!

The article was prepared by Sergey Rudenko, the owner of the Agudaria estate (PRP Fairy Land).

Do you want to live with us in the estate in the woods by the river? Welcome to Apiterem (hive sleep and other wonders).

We invite you to the site dedicated to our beloved ECO-case! Coffee from acorns Amulet of the Family.

And if you feel that you know little about life on the estate and want to learn the most honest and practical information firsthand, from successful practitioners, we suggest listening to our webinar “Family Homestead from A to Z” (duration 4.5 hours).

When using materials from this site - an active link to the source is required. Thank you for understanding.

Liked the article? Support us with a link on social networks!

In order to protect from rain, houses made of wood or adobe (clay with chopped straw) are often sheathed with boards that rot intensively. And plastering a wall containing organic matter is not only useless, but also harmful. The coating cracks, the wall stops "breathing" and a fungus appears.

A more reliable solution is the use of modern plastic lining (PV), plus competent wall ventilation. You can even lay a heater.

I give a diagram of such a design (Fig. 1). Air through the ventilation hatch penetrates into the space between the skin and the wall (or insulation), rises up and exits near the roof. It is important that the ventilation gap is at least 1-2 cm.

The part adjacent to the ground (or blind areas) can be made of flat slate, depicting granite or tile lining with oil paint, diluted with drying oil (Fig. 2).

Why is PV best suited for such "dynamic" houses? Because it is not attached directly to the wall, but is installed using special brackets that allow the plastic to move, compensating for temperature changes and changes in the geometry of the building.

We cut the slate sheets with a grinder. On the end adjacent to the lining, we form a chamfer so that water flowing from the roof does not fall under the slate. We cut holes for the hatches, which should be located approximately in the middle between the installation beams.

As blanks, we use a neck with a cap d 33 mm from a plastic bottle (more is possible, but not less).

We fix the hatch (Fig. 3). On the inside, around the perimeter, we apply a strip of silicone sealant. In extreme cases, we wrap it with tow soaked in oil paint. We fasten the slate sheets to the installation beam with screws with a hex head.

The easiest way is to install a plastic lining without insulation: we remove the boards, we dissolve the highest quality ones with the help of a circular saw into slats. We stuff them in increments of 50-60 cm. Next, we assemble the trim using standard technology.

Of the heaters, rolled glass wool 120 × 5 cm is best suited. Cut the roll along the length into two equal parts.

Thus, the distance between the mounting bars with a section of 7 × 7 cm will be 60 cm. We fasten the glass wool very carefully (Fig. 4) - in order to avoid slipping, sagging and shedding, which can lead to blocking of the ventilation duct.

From above we cover it with a fiberglass facade plaster mesh and nail it with plastic washers (we cut it from 4 × 4 cm flasks). We put a copper wire under the washers, tying the canvas.

We nail the plaster shingles in the center. Caring for the wall is very simple: in the spring we open the hatches so that it dries properly, and close it for the winter.

Styrofoam, pressed glass wool plates and mineral wool on aluminum foil cannot be used for insulation - these are airtight coatings.

Syozha » Thu May 23, 2013 13:09 pm

I collected my thoughts and decided that our experience in transforming an old but strong adobe house in Pervomayka into a new, modern dwelling would be interesting and useful to someone else.

I’ll make a reservation right away that I don’t pretend to be the truth in any instance and everything that will be written here is born in the process of getting to know local materials, construction methods, books on this topic, Internet forums and of course with people who constantly help us in this.

So, last year we bought a plot on which stood an incomprehensible-looking house built in 1973 (my peer!). At that time, we did not pay any attention to it, assuming that it would immediately go under demolition.

In the spring, they completed all the documents, took away the keys and began to “settle in the space”. In the very first days, it turned out that the house was “larger inside than outside”, and one breathes and sleeps in it in a completely different way than in a city apartment. A week of residence revealed a lot of pluses (although, of course, the house is old, so there were also minuses). In the very heat, the rooms were comfortable and cool, but in the attached kitchen, on the contrary, it was stuffy and hot. The windows in the house were slit, one pane of glass. At that time there was no bathroom (toilet type "toilet" in the yard), but water was turned on (sink in the kitchen) and electricity. Gas has not yet been carried out, but was in the project.

at the bottom left, according to the plan, there is a brick extension (half a brick), where water is supplied and sewer pipes are connected. First of all, we drove to Krasnodar and bought something without which a city dweller is no longer ready for permanent residence - a toilet bowl. When we connected, a surprise awaited us! The canal's pipe came out from under the wall of the annex and. there, after 20 cm, it ended, sprinkled with earth. We decided to make a “temporary-like-septic tank”, bought a couple of long pipes, dug a groove and dug a hole in the clay as deep as we could (broken a shovel, but then found choppers and poked all the way). 7 car tires were laid on top of each other in the pit and a kind of “drainage” was sprinkled with pebbles, broken bricks and slate. A pipe was brought into the cylinder formed by the tires, a package of “toilet bacteria” was filled up, covered with a piece of linoleum and a plywood shield. In this form, this building is used to the current moment and, I must say, very cool. Absolutely no smell, nothing leaks out. So the temporary is quite viable.

On our second visit in August 2012, we made the final decision that “adobe” is cool, we will not break the house, but we will build it to the required level of comfortable year-round living, and when we gather our thoughts and money and build a new house, this one will remain for guests. Here we were waiting for the most creative part - the study of the adobe business (in theory), the planning of transformations and the search for a contractor.

With the theory of adobe, a book that I found in an electronic version, donated by a person who was passionate about eco-construction from adobe, helped me a lot.
I am posting the link, since further reasoning and ideas are partly based on its material.

PS archived PDF files. To view (if it doesn't open for you) download Acrobat Reader

Repairing the load-bearing wall of an adobe house is a very unpleasant problem, the need to eliminate which is beyond doubt. And the reason for the appearance of such consequences is trivially simple - non-compliance with the basic requirements in the construction of buildings. In this case, the foundation of the house consists of natural stone laid on the ground. Due to the lack of a high-quality foundation, cracks formed at the joints of the walls, deformation and bulging of the back wall began to occur. To prevent further deformations and possible destruction, it is necessary to strengthen the wall of the adobe house.

The protruding part will be fixed with a concrete damper. An I-beam construction is used to enhance strength.

We start with the fact that we install beams in a previously prepared pit, and close to the wall being reinforced. Next, fill them with concrete mortar. The link connecting the "I-beams" is the reinforcement of the 10th size.To prevent uneven subsidence of concrete inside the dug trench, a reinforced cage should be mounted, which serves as a reinforcement connected to the supports. For better adhesion, a metal mesh is applied over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe old foundation and fixed with anchors.

The first part of the auxiliary concrete support is poured 60cm wide to a depth of 1m. Those. we make essentially a full-fledged foundation that is able to withstand high loads. Hence the choice in favor of such base parameters.

Next, we concrete the above-ground part of the support. It can already be done. 30cm will be enough. We fill to a height of about a meter. If possible, then you can make a monolithic support with a size equal to the height of the wall that you want to strengthen.

In the case under consideration, the above-ground monolithic part of the support was poured only a meter due to inconvenience with the installation of formwork at a height (the mill is being strengthened with one's own hands without assistants). In principle, the design that has already been made to this point is already enough to ensure reliable fixation of the protruding wall and prevent its complete destruction. Metal "I-beams", deepened into the ground and concreted there, will cope with the task. But leaving everything in this form is not aesthetically pleasing. Therefore, further it is possible to overlay an adobe house with bricks. In this case, the facade will be updated and the result of the work will have a finished look.

This completes the do-it-yourself repair of the load-bearing wall of the adobe house. As a result, we get a monolithic high-quality support that can withstand fairly large loads.

8,891 total views, 5 views today

Adobe is an environmentally friendly material made from a mixture of clay, straw, sand and water. Houses built of adobe are a real masterpiece that can stand and give comfort to those living in it for more than one hundred years.

However, as you might guess, these buildings require a special approach to finishing, so further we will consider how and with what to plaster adobe walls.