Do-it-yourself repair of an adobe house outside

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of an adobe house outside from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Hello Semyonitch! It so happened that I and my two children bought an adobe house in the Adygea and moved. The house is in dire need of repairs, help and even advice, there is no one to expect from here, and even strained with finances. I decided with my sons (13 and 14 years old) to repair it myself, but, of course, there is no necessary knowledge. Please help us, Semyonitch! We removed the floor, decided to cover it with gravel, make a screed on top, then a warm water floor and tiles. I would like to make the ceilings a little higher, so we cover the foundation with gravel, and we want to remove the logs on which the floorboards lay, but I cannot understand if they still perform some function in this house.

Regards, Irina, x. Tikhonov.

You are a risky woman, but risk is a noble cause.

If your sons help you, you can do it and they can make great men.

The construction of an adobe house is an exotic affair, albeit labor-intensive. But the ecology will be at its best. Don't just add organic matter to adobe. The British, unlike our southern neighbors, do not do this either. Clay, straw, sand, water, casting molds and your work, that's enough.

Since you have access to the Internet, in the relevant sections on the construction of adobe houses, you may well find answers to most of your questions.

Therefore, I see no point in expanding on this topic in detail.

As for the genital lags, they most likely served as the basis of the floor. Clear space around one of them to make sure how they were secured and what they supported. Most often, logs are walled up (embedded) into the walls of the house and rest on posts made of stone (brick, concrete, rubble, etc.).

Video (click to play).

Accordingly, the logs are treated with bioprotective compounds against rot and all kinds of bugs. And they also have waterproofing, that is, roofing material (or rubemast, stekloizol or their analogs) is placed on the posts under the logs. And in the places of the bookmarks in the walls, they are also wrapped in a couple of layers with them.

Just take out the logs and put a layer of gravel instead of the floor? In the old days, they did it. And not only gravel was used. And just ordinary land was well rammed and lived like that.

If everything is done correctly, according to appropriate construction technologies, then the floor should rest on a reliable foundation. That is, on the mentioned support posts. Otherwise, the floor may move, especially the tiled one. With a possible violation of the pipes used for the installation of warm water floors.

Therefore, it is necessary to find these supports, if any. Make them if they are not there. As a last resort, make sure that your gravel layer will not move anywhere and will not sink. Then make a concrete screed with a thickness of at least 50 millimeters with reinforcement with reinforcement or welded mesh.

Try to bring the ends of the welded mesh cards into the walls of the house by heels of centimeters. The mesh should cover the entire floor surface. Individual mesh cards must be tied together with knitting wire. It is enough to take its diameter of 1 or 1.5 millimeters. It is sold in bays.

/ A welded mesh map is a rectangle made of wire with a diameter of one and a half, two millimeters, up to 4 - 5, superimposed on each other in the form of rectangles or squares and welded together. /

The sequence of operations is pouring a 2.5 centimeters layer of concrete, then laying the mesh, then pouring another 2.5 centimeters of concrete again.

Then you will have a solid base both for laying floor tiles and for laying water pipes when installing a warm floor. And also the installation of furniture and everything else.No risk of breaking the floor.

This is roughly the shortest answer to your question.

Yes, don't forget to make sure there is no basement under your house! So that, God forbid, the whole screed does not fall into it with all your labors.

Other questions about adobe houses:

If you own an old adobe house, do not despair, because, in principle, there is nothing wrong with the restoration. Knowing how to put everything in order, you can repair an old adobe house on your own and without problems. In fact, an adobe house is a building made of clay, that is, unbaked raw bricks, which, if possible, were lined with ordinary bricks around the perimeter.

Like any repair, it all starts with an inspection of the building, drawing up a work plan, an estimate and the purchase of the necessary materials. If you are not sure that you can carry out all the work on your own, then it is better, of course, to turn to qualified workers. The main elements of any residential building are the foundation, walls and roof, so let's look at everything in order.

In adobe buildings, the classical foundation was rarely used, that is, the walls of the house were erected on a compacted clay pillow. Or, in the version of an adobe structure, wooden pillars were driven into the ground, which were subsequently coated with clay. When inspecting the building, if you see the presence of cracks on the walls, the difference at the level of the window openings, then with a 100% guarantee we can say that the house has shrunk and the foundation needs to be repaired under the walls.

Option to strengthen the foundation of an adobe house

To do this, trenches are dug along the walls, but not in a continuous strip, but in increments of approximately one meter and a depth of about 0.6 m. Waterproofing is done along the lower edge of the adobe blocks. Sections of the foundation are laid in problem areas (the simplest option is reinforced concrete or sand-cement blocks). After that, it is imperative that waterproofing is done around the entire perimeter and a blind area is constructed.

One of the main problems of adobe walls is that a "belly" appears after a long time: irregularities and bulges appear on their surface. If such irregularities are up to two centimeters in size, you can try to clean them up, and when there are more, it is better not to take risks, but to think over a way to cover them (in the case of a facade, you can use siding, inside drywall).

Plastering adobe walls inside the house

During the construction of adobe houses, all floors were mainly made of wood. Therefore, it is necessary to assess the condition of the floor beams and if they are in a deplorable state, they need to be completely changed. Of course, this is a large amount of work, since you will have to disassemble the roof, replace the entire piping and make new wooden floors.

The roofs of such houses used to be covered with what was at hand: from reeds to ceramic tiles. When restoring an old roof, the first thing to start with is to inspect the entire wooden structure. If necessary, replace the worn-out elements and treat the entire crate, for example, with mastic.

Before starting roof repairs, it is necessary to carefully examine all its elements.

If the old roof is covered with tiles, it is advisable to replace it with a lighter material, since, having a lot of weight, it creates an undesirably large load on the entire structure of the house.

When deciding to carry out a complete renovation of a building in the first place, never neglect the advice of experts. Since, unknowingly, you can cause irreparable damage to the entire building, which ultimately affects your budget.

Before proceeding to consider the area of use of adobe, it is necessary to identify what this material is. So adobe is an environmentally friendly material. It is made from a mixture of straw, clay and sand. All this is diluted with water.It has long been known that adobe buildings are very durable and of high quality. And thanks to its many advantages, residents receive a comfortable pastime, coziness and warmth. But in order to get the long-awaited and desired result, it is worth carefully studying all the nuances when using adobe.

Every person who plans to make repairs should know that houses made of adobe, in addition to being very durable, have some other advantages. First of all, you will find real comfort in the room. Indeed, due to its properties, it will be cool in the house in summer, and very warm in winter. Saman accumulates solar heat and energy during the day and gives them to the room at night.

Also, do not forget about the low cost of such a building material. Among all the existing assortment, adobe is, perhaps, the most budgetary. For residents of many countries, including Europe, this is an important factor.

Of course, for many people it is somewhat incomprehensible how, with the help of such a mixture, to make a truly high-quality house that can serve its residents for a long time. But thanks to a few tips for using adobe, you can achieve great results.

In order for adobe walls to retain their durability and strength, you need to carefully select the plaster. It has long been known that adobe is not very resistant to moisture. Under the influence of dampness, rain, high humidity, the walls lose their shape, swell, and with waterproof plaster you will extend the life of your home.

But be sure to remember that you should not use cement plaster. This material is vapor-tight, so the walls will not be able to "breathe", moisture will not be able to evaporate, but will linger inside. As a result, liquid will start to run down the inner surface of the cement and this will adversely affect the longevity of the home.

As practice shows, the most suitable connecting link for adobe is a solution of lime and sand. It is very easy to prepare if you know the correct consistency. The ratio of lime to sand should be 1 to 5. If you have a very thick layer of plaster, then this mixture is perfect. As a finishing treatment, it is worth using the same solution of lime and sand, but in a different ratio - 1: 1.

To level the walls, eliminate all imperfections and grooves, you can use a special solution, into which it is customary to add straw or sawdust. Such a procedure will not only eliminate irregularities in the room, but also strengthen the walls and extend the service life of the coating. You also don't need to use a plaster mesh.

With regard to the use of plaster indoors, you can use a mixture based on gypsum.

Preparation for plastering

To perform quality work, you must definitely know what actions to take for a good result.

First of all, adobe walls must be coated several times with a primer, which tends to penetrate deeply. This will protect the walls from microorganisms and strengthen them. And also with the help of a primer, the plaster adheres better to the walls.

Further, it is recommended to apply shingles to the adobe walls. It is a thin wooden planks that are nailed at a short distance from each other (approximately 5mm). In this case, the first layer of shingles should be located at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the horizontal. The second layer is nailed perpendicular to the first, at the same distance of one plank from the next. But it should be noted that the procedure is quite laborious and not always feasible. Therefore, shingles are not always applied.

Having carefully prepared the walls, you can begin to plaster them. Initially, a solution of sand and lime should be applied to the entire surface. We mentioned above how to do it correctly.

The next step is to apply the plaster itself directly. The first layer should not be thinner than 1 centimeter. In this case, the plaster should be applied as evenly as possible. To do this, it is necessary to apply the building material to the wall by sketching. Next, you need to give the coating time to dry, but be sure to make sure that it is still soft and pliable enough. Then it follows with a wooden object, for example, a float, to level it.

Next, you need to apply a second, the same thickness, layer of plaster. First, the first layer must be moistened with water and you can proceed to the second run. Depending on what result you want to get, at the end you can level the coating. If, on the contrary, you want to observe naturalness, natural unevenness and roughness, then you can leave the plaster alone and let it harden in the form in which you applied it.

The final step is the application of decorative plaster. It is made from sand and lime. You can add paint to this solution and give the walls the desired shade. But it should be remembered that you need to choose high-quality dyes that will retain color, brightness and saturation for a long time.

Let us remind you again why it is worth using adobe as a covering for your home. Despite the fact that you will have to spend a lot of time and effort to create a home, as a result you will get a quality home from an environmentally friendly product at a fairly low price. And it will be pleasant for you to be in it both in winter and in summer, despite the intense heat, frost or wind.

Quite often we are asked about our house plaster and wall covering (inside and outside). I will try to tell you a little more about plastering an adobe house in this article.

Let's remember the spring of 2014. The house is finally finished, the adobe walls are dry, the wheat sprouts on the walls are withered - you can start finishing.

I must say that the walls, erected using the technology of light adobe, are quite breathable. This is especially felt during strong winds)) The first winter, while the walls were drying, we felt it in full. And in the spring, as soon as it got warmer, they started plastering the walls. We already had experience using clay plaster, and clay is at hand, so we did not think long about choosing a plaster mixture.

Raindrops on the wall. At first, the walls staunchly resisted the weather.

ADVANTAGES OF CLAY PLASTER: availability and low cost - the material, one might say, lies right under your feet, environmental friendliness, hypoallergenicity, fire safety. Absorbs unpleasant odors, allows walls to "breathe". Can be used as a finishing material.

THE COMPOSITION OF THE MIXTURE is simple - it is clay, sand and water. I also added some plaster. It allows you to adjust the shade of the plaster mixture - making it lighter. And with it the solution dries faster.

Applying a rough plaster layer. Clay sticks to death. You can then tear it off only with a piece of the wall.

The proportions of sand and clay are selected depending on the "fat content" of the clay, and its composition may differ even in two adjacent areas. If plastering with oily clay, i.e. with a small admixture of sand - the plaster will crack when it dries. If the solution is "skinny", i.e. too much sand - the plaster will turn out to be loose and loose.
A lot has been written on the Internet how to determine the fat content of clay - by rolling balls or sausages, but there are no clear recommendations on how much sand to add in the end, so I immediately experimented on the wall. The result is a 1x2.5 ratio (one bucket of clay and two and a half sand). Before that, in an old house in the city, we used a 1x4 mix for plaster. We add quite a bit of gypsum to the solution, somewhere - 1/8 of a bucket (the more, the lighter the solution).The clay can be pre-soaked in a container in which the solution is mixed, and diluted with water until a homogeneous consistency, without lumps. And then add sand.

Correct consistency. )) The mortar is not too thick, but it also does not run off the trowel.

If the clay is dry and crumbly, you can, by removing or crushing large lumps, immediately mix with sand and gypsum, and then add water. Then, after preparation, the solution should be allowed to stand for a while so that all clay particles are soaked.

Read also: DIY bathroom repair examples

The mixture is diluted with water to the consistency of "thick sour cream". We applied the rough layer directly to the adobe wall, i.e., to put it mildly, on a non-smooth surface, and made the solution thinner - this way it better penetrates into all cavities, cracks and, when dry, adheres very firmly to the wall, and for the finishing layer it is more convenient make a thicker solution.

Smoothing the unevenness of the plaster walls. In a simple way - with a wet sponge. )) Only a sponge is needed dense, tough.

To prevent the finished wall from crumbling, crumbling or eroding when water gets in, we fixed it with a primer. They managed to try different primers from different manufacturers - acrylic, latex, concentrate, and ready-made solutions. In my opinion, there is no difference. Not a single crack has formed on the walls during the operation, it does not crumble anywhere, does not exfoliate. When water hits the walls, it rolls down and is not absorbed. By the way, the stones with which we faced the walls in the kitchen were attached to the same mortar of clay and sand. So far none have bounced)))

Kitchen decoration - clay and stones.

This is with regard to interior decoration.

Outside walls are more difficult. We also plastered them with clay and covered them with a water-repellent primer. We used a more concentrated primer, tried to moisten the walls deeper and better saturate the walls with it. The finishing layer of plaster was applied to the plaster mesh.

At the end of August 2014, our house began to transform ... Light adobe covers the beauty of clay.

At first we were pleased with the result. And in appearance and stability. The walls withstood the rains and temperature drops. But one of the walls was less fortunate than the others. The primer could not resist the lingering slanting rain for a long time, gradually the plaster began to get soaked. At night there was a frost, and in the morning in the sun the plaster began to fall off in flakes. True, only the topmost layer and not over the entire area of the wall, in small specks. It seems okay, but the view turned out to be unsightly. So the house stood until spring. The other three walls were not affected by the weather at all.

With the onset of heat, all the remaining plaster had to be stripped off on the south wall. Re-fixed the plaster mesh and plastered with a standard cement-based mortar as a finishing layer. He fixed it with a primer and covered it with two layers of facade acrylic paint on top. The rest of the walls are also painted. So our house became a cheerful peach color.

Andrey is painting the last piece of the wall.
True, then they covered it with another layer of paint. ))

In general, for my taste, clay plaster is ideal for indoor use. And the outer walls, either need to be protected from slanting rains - make houses one-story and with large roof slopes in the directions of the prevailing winds, or use other materials.

You can, of course, experiment with the old "old-fashioned" methods. For example, covering the walls with lime. But it is painfully smeared - it is better not to lean against such a wall, and requires constant renovation (we had an experience of "communication" with whitewashed walls, here we did not want to repeat it). And you can mix the solution with horse manure - the manure reinforces the plaster mixture well, prevents it from cracking and, it seems, makes it more moisture resistant. But we have not yet had time to test this technology. We went the easier way - we used a special plaster mesh to reinforce the finishing layer.

P.S.More photos of our house and the construction process here (we will replenish the album)

We wish you, friends, to build your own beautiful, cozy and eco-friendly home in the Family Estate!

The article was prepared by Sergey Rudenko, the owner of the Agudariya estate (PRP Fairy Tale).

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In order to protect from the rain, houses made of wood or adobe (clay with chopped straw) are often sheathed with boards that rot intensively. And plastering a wall containing organic matter is not only useless, but also harmful. The coating cracks, the wall stops "breathing" and a fungus appears.

A more reliable solution is the use of modern plastic lining (PV), plus competent wall ventilation. You can even lay insulation.

Here is a diagram of such a design (Fig. 1). Air through the ventilation hatch penetrates into the space between the skin and the wall (or insulation), rises up and goes out near the roof. In this case, it is important that the ventilation gap is at least 1-2 cm.

The part adjacent to the ground (or blind areas) can be made of flat slate, depicting granite or tiled cladding with oil paint diluted with linseed oil (Fig. 2).

Why is PV best suited for these “dynamic” homes? Because it is not attached directly to the wall, but is installed using special brackets that allow the plastic to move, compensating for temperature changes and changes in the geometry of the building.

We cut slate sheets with a grinder. At the end adjacent to the lining, we form a chamfer so that the water flowing from the roof does not fall under the slate. We cut out the holes for the hatches, which should be located approximately in the middle between the installation beams.

As blanks, we use a neck with a lid d 33 mm from a plastic bottle (more, but not less).

We fix the hatch (fig. 3). On the inside, along the perimeter, apply a strip of silicone sealant. As a last resort - wrap with tow soaked in oil paint. We attach the slate sheets to the installation bar with hex head screws.

The easiest way is to install a plastic lining without insulation: we remove the boards, dissolve the highest quality boards on slats using a circular. We fill them with a step of 50-60 cm. Next, we assemble the cladding using standard technology.

Of insulation, roll glass wool 120 × 5 cm is best suited.Cut the roll lengthwise into two equal parts.

Thus, the distance between the installation beams with a section of 7 × 7 cm will be 60 cm. We fasten the glass wool very carefully (Fig. 4) to avoid slipping, sagging and crumbling, which can lead to blocking of the ventilation duct.

Cover it from above with fiberglass facade plaster mesh and nail it down with plastic washers (cut from 4 × 4 cm baklashki). We put a copper wire under the washers, tying the canvas.

We nail plaster shingles in the center. Maintenance of the wall is very simple: in the spring we open the hatches so that it dries properly, and we close it for the winter.

It is impossible to use foam, pressed glass wool plates and mineral wool on aluminum foil for insulation - these are airtight coatings.

Syozha May 23, 2013 13:09 pm

I gathered my thoughts and decided that our experience in transforming an old but strong adobe house in Pervomayka into a new, modern dwelling would be interesting and useful to someone else.

Immediately I will make a reservation that I will not re-claim the truth in any instance and everything that will be written here is born in the process of getting acquainted with local materials, construction methods, books on this topic, Internet forums and, of course, with people who constantly help us in this.

So, last year we bought a plot, on which there was an incomprehensible-looking house built in 1973 (my same age!). At that time, we did not pay any attention to him, assuming that he would immediately go for demolition.

In the spring, they completed all the documents, took the keys and began to “settle in the space”. In the very first days, it turned out that the house was “larger inside than outside,” but one breathes and sleeps in it completely differently than in a city apartment. A week of living revealed a lot of pluses (although, of course, the house is old, so there were some minuses). In the very heat, the rooms were comfortable and cool, but in the attached kitchen, on the contrary, it was stuffy and hot. The windows in the house were slit, in one glass. At that time, there was no bathroom (a toilet of the "outhouse" type in the yard), but water (sink in the kitchen) and electricity were brought in. The gas has not yet been installed, but was in the project.

at the bottom left, according to the plan, there is a brick extension (half a brick), where the water is supplied and the conclusions of the sewer pipes are drawn. First of all, we drove to Krasnodar and bought something without which a city dweller is no longer ready for permanent residence - a toilet. A surprise awaited us when we connected! The canal pipe came out from under the walls of the outbuilding and. in the same place, after 20 cm, it ended, sprinkled with earth. We decided to make a “temporary-type-septic tank”, bought a couple of long pipes, dug a groove and dug a hole in the clay as deep as we could (broke a shovel, but then found a hoe and hit it all the way). 7 car tires were laid on top of each other in the pit and some kind of “drainage” was sprinkled with pebbles, broken bricks and slate. A pipe was brought out into a cylinder formed by tires, a package of “toilet bacteria” was poured, covered with a piece of linoleum and a plywood board. In this form, this structure is still in use and, I must say, great. There is absolutely no smell, nothing will leak out. So the temporary hut is quite viable.

On our second visit in August 2012, we made the final decision that "adobe" is cool, we will not break the house, but we will complete it to the required level of comfortable year-round living, and when we collect our thoughts and money and build a new house, this one will remain for guests. Here the most creative part awaited us - studying adobe business (in theory), planning transformations and finding a contractor.

With the theory of adobe, I was greatly helped by a book donated by a man who was passionate about eco-construction from adobe by a man, which I found in an electronic version.
I am posting a link, since further reasoning and ideas are based partly on its material.

PS archived PDF files. To view (if you have not opened) download Acrobat Reader

Repairing the load-bearing wall of an adobe house is a very unpleasant problem, the need to eliminate which is beyond doubt. And the reason for the appearance of such consequences is simple to the point of banality - non-observance of the basic requirements in the construction of buildings. In this case, the base of the house consists of natural stone laid out on the ground. Due to the lack of a high-quality foundation, cracks formed at the joints of the walls, deformation and bulging of the rear wall began to occur. To prevent further deformations and possible destruction, it is necessary to strengthen the wall of the adobe house.

The fixation of the protruding part will be carried out with a concrete flap. To enhance the strength, a structure with I-beams is used.

We start by installing beams in a pre-prepared foundation pit, and close to the wall to be reinforced.Next, fill them with concrete. The connecting "I-beams" link is a size 10 reinforcement. To prevent uneven subsidence of concrete inside the dug trench, a reinforced cage should be installed, which serves for strengthening, connected to the supports. For better adhesion, a metal mesh is applied over the entire area of the old foundation and fixed with anchors.

The first part of the auxiliary concrete support is poured 60 cm wide to a depth of 1 m. Those. we make, in fact, a full-fledged foundation that is able to withstand high loads. Hence the choice in favor of such base parameters.

Next, we concrete the above-ground part of the support. It can be done already. 30cm will be enough. Fill it to a height of about a meter. If possible, then you can make a monolithic support with a size equal to the height of the wall that you want to strengthen.

In this case, the above-ground monolithic part of the support was poured only a meter due to the inconvenience with the installation of the formwork at a height (the mill is being strengthened with their own hands without helpers). In principle, the structure that has already been made to this point is already sufficient to ensure reliable fixation of the protruding wall and prevent its complete destruction. Metal "I-beams", deepened into the ground and concreted there, will cope with the task. But leaving everything as it is is not aesthetically pleasing. Therefore, further you can impose a brick on the adobe house. In this case, the facade will be updated and the result of the work will have a finished look.

This completes the repair of the bearing wall of the adobe house with your own hands. As a result, we get a monolithic high-quality support that can withstand rather heavy loads.

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Saman is an environmentally friendly material made from a mixture of clay, straw, sand and water. Houses built from adobe are a real masterpiece that can stand and give comfort to those living in it for more than one hundred years.

However, as it is not difficult to guess, these buildings require a special approach to finishing, so further we will consider how and with what to plaster the adobe walls.

Plastering an adobe wall

Adobe houses have a number of advantages, among which, in addition to durability, a favorable indoor microclimate can be distinguished. It is cool in summer in such a house, and warm in winter. In addition, this construction option is, perhaps, the cheapest..

Therefore, adobe houses in Europe are becoming more and more popular every day. However, many abandon the idea of such a construction because they have no idea how the walls can be “put in order”.

In fact, there is nothing difficult in this, the main thing is to preserve the concept of an eco-friendly house, its main advantages and at the same time take into account some of the nuances of adobe walls.

Adobe brick wall

As you know, adobe structures do not tolerate moisture well, so the finish should be moisture resistant first of all. However, it should be said right away that traditional cement plaster is categorically unsuitable for these purposes. The fact is that such a coating has a high heat capacity, good thermal conductivity and poor vapor permeability.

As a result, moisture seeps from the inside of the house through the walls and settles on the inner surface of the cement finish, after which it flows down. At best, such a plaster of an adobe house will begin to crumble in a few years, at worst - this will lead to the complete destruction of the walls, which can occur in warm climates.

It is best to use a lime-based finish as a connecting link. This composition is easy to make with your own hands from lime and sand in a 1: 5 ratio. It is perfect for thick, coarse plaster. For finishing, a mixture is used in a 1: 1 ratio.

If the walls of the house are uneven, then to level them, you can make a solution with a small admixture of straw, manure or sawdust. This will strengthen the overall mass and thus avoid the need for a plaster mesh. The fact is that the mesh is fixed with long nails that destroy the walls.

Advice!
For internal plastering of an adobe house, you can use a mixture based on gypsum.

Before plastering the adobe wall, you must prepare it:

First of all, the walls must be treated with a deep penetration primer twice. This will strengthen their surface, provide protection against microorganisms, and also improve the adhesion of the plaster to the base. (See also the article How to primer walls before plastering with your own hands.)
After that, many experts recommend lining the walls with shingles, although this procedure is not always performed. For manufacturing, wooden slats with a thickness of no more than 5 mm are used, which are stuffed at an angle of 45 degrees to the horizontal with a step of 5 mm. On top of them, strips are attached, located at right angles to the first layer of shingles.

Advice!
If the plaster of adobe walls is carried out in this way, then the wooden slats must be treated with an antibacterial compound before installation.

Plastering an adobe house during construction

After the walls have been prepared, the coating can be started.

Instructions for performing this work are as follows:

Note!
Lime plaster should dry slowly at freezing temperatures.
Therefore, after application, the surface must be protected from direct sunlight and dry wind.

As we can see, this adobe plastering technology, although laborious, is quite feasible. At the same time, the house does not cease to be environmentally friendly, and the price for the covering is as low as for the rest of the materials from which it is built.

But, most importantly, the finish will serve as a reliable protection for the walls for many years. For more information on this topic, see the video in this article.

At the dacha we have an adobe house, it is warm, but the foundation is crumbling. How to properly repair an old foundation?

Any work on strengthening or repairing the foundation begins with its inspection, inspection can be carried out only when the foundation is “opened”, pits are dug out

It is also important at the initial stage to understand why your foundation is being destroyed.

Perhaps a repair of the blind area is needed, or a new blind area.

Perhaps your foundation is "tormented" by groundwater, you need drainage.

Only after these works (by the way, only specialists can do such work) can one begin to repair the foundation (if the relevance has not yet disappeared, sometimes the above measures are enough, it's not about the foundation).

In general, research work is needed "by eye" to repair the foundation is useless.

If the reason for the destruction of the foundation is that it is not correctly filled (above the freezing point), then the foundation can be insulated, perhaps this will help stop the destruction.

A trench is dug along the perimeter, but no deeper than the “bottom” of the foundation, then waterproofing (after cleaning the foundation from the ground), backfilling of insulation (expanded clay, for example), although it is possible with coarse sand, so the blind area with insulation is cheaper.

There are other methods of repair, with more severe destruction, the foundation is a very serious matter, it is rather difficult to describe all the methods (we do not even know what type of foundation we are talking about), one thing I can say is that without research (preliminary) without looking for the reasons that led it is highly undesirable to start repairing the foundation to destroy the foundation, this is a wasted time and money.

And finally, pouring a new one next to the old foundation, driving the reinforcement into the old one and “tying” it into one whole by pouring concrete, this is a useless task, you will get another foundation next to the old one and that's it.

Strengthening is carried out in sections, the old foundation is undermined, a solution is poured under it, in your case (adobe), these individual sections should be shortened, adobe is not a very durable material.

Video (click to play).

As you already understood, any of the above works cannot be done on your own (if the result is important).