Do-it-yourself sandero repair suspension repair

In detail: do-it-yourself sandero repair suspension repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Renault Logan is generally a reliable and comfortable car, but the chassis needs to be repaired from time to time. The front suspension of this car is created according to the MacPherson type, and the rear is based on a continuous beam. How to diagnose and repair the Renault Logan undercarriage with our own hands will be considered in this material.

Designers have implemented proven technical solutions in a passenger car, so troubleshooting is a fairly simple matter that every car owner can handle in a garage. After carrying out diagnostic work, you will be able to replace worn parts in a timely manner, preventing complex and costly repairs in the future.

Renault Logan's chassis is reliable enough, but not forever. Possible malfunctions include:

Breakage of the support bearings and crackling when turning the steering wheel while standing still.
Damaged or worn shock absorber struts. Rocking the car on bumps, when braking and when cornering.
Subsidence of springs or breaking of coils. At the same time, the ground clearance decreases, directional stability deteriorates and vibrations appear.
Wear on steering tips. The car starts to "yaw" when driving in a straight line, and at speed, vibrations occur on the steering wheel.
Ball wear. When overcoming irregularities, the chassis knocks.
Damage or deformation of the subframe, arm, anti-roll bar. When driving, the car goes to the side.
Wear of the rod mounting parts and wear of the stabilizer bushings. When cornering, body rolls occur and directional stability is disturbed.
Silent blocks wear. On irregularities, extraneous sounds from the suspension are heard.
Wheel bearing wear - there is a hum that increases with speed.
Inadequacy of the hinge of equal angular velocities. You will hear a crackling sound when you turn the wheels to the sides.
Wheel imbalance. Vibrations occur at speed.

Video (click to play).

Do not forget that external signs are indirect indicators of a Renault Logan chassis malfunction. Signs of wear on CV joints and wheel bearings make it possible to determine the cause with a high probability, then it is sometimes very difficult to understand exactly where the knocking comes from.

Before repairing the chassis of a passenger car, you need to diagnose faulty components and elements. How to do this correctly, we will figure it out below:

Damage to the strut support is indicated by the difference in the distance between the glass and the upper strut support. Both glasses should have approximately the same distance - 1-1.5 centimeters. In this case, the steering wheel should be located exactly. Ask someone to turn the steering wheel, and put your hand on the support. Seizing and crackling is a sign of bearing wear.
Rock the car on each side. If the shock absorbers are in good working order, vibrations will be damped immediately. Also inspect the struts for mechanical damage or oil leaks.
Try to loosen the bar and ball rod by applying force. This type of swivel joint implies a smooth movement to the sides. There should be no vertical backlash. Do the same with the stabilizer bar. Any play is a sign of wear on Renault Logan bushings. It is better to check the stand when the machine is on a horizontal platform.
Look at the silent blocks - they should be intact, not torn. Separation of bushings - can be checked by wobbling the lever. Even a slight backlash indicates the need for Renault Logan suspension repair.
Visually assess the condition of the subframe, stabilizer link and arm for mechanical damage.

You can do all this with your own hands in a garage, after which you can repair the Renault Logan suspension correctly, saving money on the services of service centers.

The rubber parts of the Logan anti-roll bar are pillows and bushings. They need to be replaced when cracking, swelling and rupture of rubber, as well as excessive wear, in which the joints of the elements become loose.

Suspend the front suspension of the machine by lifting it with jacks or a hoist. Before unscrewing the nut securing the rod, the stabilizers to the front suspension arm, thoroughly clean the dirt from the screw head, since you will have to insert a wrench here.

If the wrench does not fit completely, you could damage the screw or wrench when you unscrew the nut. The fact is that the threaded connection is usually badly damaged by corrosion.

The front anti-roll bar consists of:

screw;
bottom rubber grommet;
rubber-metal intermediate sleeve;
plastic washer;
upper rubber bushing;
screw;
stabilizer bar;
rod cushion;
bracket.

Using a box wrench, unscrew the nut that holds the stabilizer bar to the front suspension arm. When doing this, hold the screw to prevent it from turning. Remove the bottom rubber bushing. In the recess of the end face, which faces the nut, there is a metal washer.

Remove the screw with the upper rubber grommet and the plastic washer. Pull the end of the rod down with your hand and remove the # 3 rubber-to-metal bushing. In the same way, dismantle the fastening elements of the stabilizer bar to the lever.

Install the new parts in reverse order, tightening the nuts of all stabilizer bar screws, but do not overdo it. When installing the spacer sleeve, orient it upwards with the grooves located on the outer part of the sleeve.

To replace the stabilizer bar cushion, take the head with the extension and unscrew the bolt that holds the cushion bracket and subframe to the body. Using a spanner wrench, unscrew the nut securing the cushion bracket to the stretcher. Lower the bracket. Taking the pin out of the subframe hole and dismantle the bracket by pulling its front end out of the subframe groove.

Remove the cushion from the rod and install a new stabilizer rod cushion in reverse order. Replace the pillow on the other side in the same way. If you need to remove the bar, disconnect it from the suspension arms on both sides and remove the brackets. Inspect the rod for deep abrasive wear at the pad mounting points.

Deep wear increases the risk of rod fracture, then reinstall the stabilizer rod in reverse order.

Sometimes, when repairing the Renault Logan chassis with your own hands, you need to replace or remove the lever, for example, when replacing the ball or silent blocks. Suspend the front of the car - be sure to have two wheels at once. If you hang only one, the stabilizer will prevent you from dismantling the arm by tightening the suspension elements. See the picture for what the left lever looks like. It consists of the following elements:

Disconnect the boom mount from the Logan arm and remove the engine mudguard. Unscrew the nut of the steering knuckle-ball joint pinch bolt, holding the bolt with a wrench.

Pull out the bolt and knock it out. Using a reliable slotted screwdriver or a special blade, loosen the joint of the steering knuckle and ball pin. Press the mounting paddle against the steering knuckle and squeeze the lever down, removing the ball pin from the hole in the steering knuckle. Using the head, loosen the bolt that holds the subframe bracket to the body. Unscrew the subframe bracket retaining nut and remove it from the front bolt holding the arm on the subframe.

Using a box wrench, loosen the front arm bolt nut while holding the bolt with the correct size head.Pull out the bolt and knock it out with a mandrel. Unscrew the rear arm securing nut and pull out the bolt. Dismantle the lever and install in the reverse order a new one or do other repair work on the Renault Logan chassis with your own hands.

Renault Logan ball joint requires replacement if the protective cover is damaged or a backlash occurs in the hinge. Dismantle the front suspension arm assembly with the ball. Using a slotted screwdriver, use a slotted screwdriver to pry the support housing under the shoulder, and then press the ball out of the lever hole, resting on its rib. Examine the eyelet for tears and cracks - nothing like this should be.

Before installing a new ball, thoroughly clean the bore of corrosion and dirt. Place a tool head or tube of suitable diameter under the arm and insert a new ball. Hit the mandrel or head with a hammer to press the support into the hole in the lever. Subsequent assembly is carried out in reverse order.

Renault Logan chassis requires periodic replacement of the wheel bearing. This is required when it is worn out or when the hub is dismantled, as this will inevitably damage the bearing. You can see the device of the front wheel hub assembly in the picture, and it consists of:

rounded fist;
wheel bearing;
mounting ring of the speed sensor;
hub.

Before work, tighten the handbrake and engage the first gear, substituting the stops under the wheels. Unscrew the wheel bearing nut. If you cannot do this due to the rotation of the wheel, brake the car by pressing the brake pedal and holding it (ask your assistant to do this). Next, hang up and remove the wheel. Remove the wheel speed sensor, disc and brake guard. Disconnect the rod end from the steering knuckle and remove the ball pin from the knuckle holes. Disconnect the shock absorber from the steering knuckle and remove the latter from the splined shank of the outer hinge housing. Place the steering knuckle on a vise and press it out with a hammer through the head or mandrel on the end of the hub. This will keep the inner bearing ring on the hub.

Pry the shield washer with a screwdriver to free the bearing oil seal and remove it. Clamp the flange in a vise and insert a chisel between the ends of the inner ring and the shoulder of the hub. Use a hammer to slide the inner ring over the hub. Insert the puller jaws into the gap that appears and press the ring off the hub.

Using pliers to remove circlips, pull the bearing ring out of the knuckle groove. Use a special puller to remove the bearing from the steering knuckle. The bearing can be pressed out with a shock method. Place your fist on the jaws of the vise. Press the bearing out of the knuckle by hitting the end face of the outer ring through a head or mandrel. Clean the knuckle seat and circlip groove before installing the new bearing. Use a file on the hub to clean the nicks left over from the chisel.

Before pressing in the wheel bearing, insert the wheel speed sensor alignment ring into the hole. Orient the ring in the hole in the knuckle so that the transducer holder fits into the groove in the knuckle.

After installing the cup puller screw with thrust washer, insert the new bearing into the hole. Press in the bearing by applying force through the puller cup. In this case, the washer must rest on the steering knuckle.

After installing the bearing, insert the circlip into the groove. Then press the hub into the bearing. In this case, the puller cup must rest on the end of the inner ring. Subsequent assembly and installation is carried out in the reverse order.

The suspension of Renault Sandero cars, according to reviews of a large number of owners, is quite reliable. However, given the quality of domestic, expensive, many parts fail long before the end of their standard service life.Faults in the front or rear suspension largely affect the safety of vehicle operation, therefore, at the first sign of them, it is recommended to immediately contact a service station. Backlash of worn parts is the reason for their destruction.

In general, the suspension of Renault Sandero cars belongs to a fairly budgetary version of the mechanism, which does not greatly affect its quality. The front lever and spring mechanism is fully independent and is made using MacPherson technology. The struts in this part of the running gear are equipped with telescopic shock absorbers and cylindrical coil springs. Various manuals and manuals contain detailed photo materials that describe in detail the design of this unit of the Renault Sandero car and the procedure for carrying out repairs.

The front suspension of Renault Sandero cars consists of the following parts:

Brake caliper;
Wheel hub bearing based and tightening nut;
A fist for turning the wheel;
Brake mechanism (caliper, etc.);
Shock absorber and spring;
Support bearing;
Transverse levers;
Longitudinal levers;
Connecting and steering rods;
Anti-roll bar, which has a torsion bar design;
Ball support.

The principle of operation of the entire mechanism is based on the operation of a shock absorber, which is equipped with a special compression buffer, a stiff spring, and an upper support. In the photo of this design, it is easy to see each of the listed parts. The main pressure on the car frame is transmitted precisely through the support and support bearing. The ball joint serves as an element for connecting the strut to the lower arm of the working suspension of the Renault Sandero car, which are fixed to the metal frame using silent blocks. The car hubs are equipped with double row ball bearings.

The device of this suspension of Renault Sandero cars is semi-dependent. Its lever-spring design provides for the presence of trailing arms, which are interconnected by the main beam. The rear springs, like the front ones, are cylindrical in shape and abut against rubber gaskets. Telescopic double-acting shock absorbers from the top, which are fixed to the body with rubber cushions.

The wheel hubs of the second row are located on tapered bearings, two copies for each wheel. The angles of the rear wheels of Sandero are not adjustable, which is easy to see in the photo, and in case of serious discrepancies with the standard indicators, it is worth contacting the specialists of the service station for help.

Front suspension malfunctions are the cause of backlash, extraneous noise and knocking when the car is moving, colliding with obstacles or turning. In such cases, prompt repair is required. In this case, malfunctions can be caused by wear of the rubber parts of the stabilizer or the upper support, insufficient tightening of the anti-roll bar mount, which causes play and knocking, wear of the main hinges of the steering linkages, as well as failure of the shock absorber buffer. Knocking occurs due to the backlash of parts during turns, for example, in the case of wear of the lever or steering rack. In this case, it is necessary to repair this unit and replace the defective parts.

It should be noted that it is unacceptable to delay the repair or replacement of a certain part, since the backlash of a failed mechanism can negatively affect the state of the mating units, which will entail their accelerated wear and additional repair.Malfunctions of front suspension parts in most cases are the cause of uneven wear on the rubber tires of the wheels.If the support bearings fail, there are quite noticeable squeaks or knocks when the car enters a turn or hits an obstacle, as well as an unacceptable backlash. Over time, in the absence of repair or replacement of a part, this knock only intensifies. Also, there are frequent cases of failure of the hub bearings, while the specific knock that occurs is similar to the cases of loosening the tightening of the main nut of this unit. In most cases, it manifests itself when cornering. The trailing arm, like the wishbone, cannot be repaired if damaged and must be replaced. Image - Do-it-yourself sandero repair suspension repair

Because the second-row undercarriage is simpler and uses far fewer parts, malfunctions of this mechanism are much less common. The causes of knocking and all kinds of noise can be malfunction of the shock absorbers of the described part, wear of the bushings, which leads to a noticeable backlash, failure of silent blocks, deformation of the spring, as well as damage and subsequent failure of the main wheel bearing. In cases where the bearings have reached their end of life and need to be replaced, a dull knock or crunch is noticeable when the wheel is spinning. This indicates the wear of the components of this part.

The ring lugs in the second row shock absorber housing are fitted with rubber bushings. Over time, these gaskets wear off, and a noticeable backlash appears at this junction. In addition, a specific knock is manifested when driving over irregularities in the road surface. This chassis malfunction is most common in Renault Sandero vehicles. On specialized resources, you can find a detailed description and photo of the procedure for replacing this part and familiarize yourself with the features of the repair.Self-repair on Renault is possible with minor malfunctions, which are eliminated by a simple replacement of components. Based on the current video instructions, we can conclude that do-it-yourself repairs on Renault Sandero are possible for such units: brake pads and discs, fuel filters, air and cabin filters, ball rods with a steering wheel bipod, bumpers. Among other things, drivers should not neglect the rules that are filled with the maintenance regulations and undergo regular maintenance of the car.To replace the discs and pads of the brake system after 50 thousand km, you should study the corresponding section of the instructions. To do this, you must use discs 7701 206 339 and pads with the number 41060 2192R. To do this, you need the following tool: keys for 13-18 and a Phillips screwdriver. The execution algorithm is simple:

Removing the wheel from the front axle;

Unscrewing and dismantling the caliper;

Removing two bolts from the disc;

Dismantling the disk with its attachment point.

We independently install the plates on the disc mount for Renault and fasten the new pads with bolts

Replacing the fuel system filter is done after 30 thousand km or after two years of driving a Renault Sandero and does not cause any difficulties. To do this, you need: a curly screwdriver, rags and a tank for draining fuel. Repair sequence for 2014 model:

Reducing the pressure in the fuel system - removing the relay responsible for the functioning of the fuel pump.

Removing the pipes - the clamps that hold the pipe sections are loosened with a screwdriver.

Dismantling the Renault filter directly.

When placing new parts, match the pointer on the filter housing with the direction of movement of gasoline in the fuel system. According to the video, the installation is carried out in the reverse order: the pipes are attached, after which they are fixed with clamps. The safety element of the fuel pump is installed in its usual place, then the ignition key is scrolled without starting the engine. Such do-it-yourself repairs will not take a lot of time. Although, maintenance copes with this much faster.The waiting time will be about a minute before the pressure level in the system is restored to normal.To replace the cabin filter for Renault Sandero 2014, you need the article TSP0325034. To carry out repairs, you must build on the video and factory instructions. For this procedure, you need the edge of a standard clerical knife.The sequence of actions is straightforward:

With a knife we cut through a solid plug located on the left side of the driver

The upper part of the filter is cut along the contour;

Cut off the cover completely.

The created small channel is used to insert the cabin filter. Subsequently, the free space is hermetically sealed. If you cannot carry out such repairs with your own hands, then you need to undergo machine maintenance.Regular body repair, as stated in the maintenance regulations, is carried out under service conditions, but it is quite possible for the driver to do it on his own, such as installing a bumper. For Renault Sandero 2014, you should select front protection under the number 8200 526 596. Installation should be carried out according to the instructions and the TORX kit. The action technology is standard:

lift the hood lid;

unscrew the radiator grill, secured with four bolts;

unscrew from the bumper fenders;

we loosen the fasteners at the bottom of the bumper;

pry off the hooks using a screwdriver.

At the last stage, after removing all fasteners, it is snapped off from the body on both sides. Before that, the fog lights are disconnected. Installation is carried out in the reverse order. If this is not a maintenance, it is important to remember the sequence of work to be performed. Image - Do-it-yourself sandero repair suspension repair

For Renault Sandero 2014 we are repairing the steering rod and tip. First, we remove the support arm, which is then subjected to repressing. We unscrew the fastening of the tip, which is removed manually, and for this, the locknut is allowed. The new part is lubricated with copper grease and partially installed in its usual place. Experts recommend going through full maintenance, which takes less time, and is better in efficiency than DIY repairs.

Carrying out repairs, as stated in the maintenance regulations, implies further dismantling the lever, removing the anther from plastic, secured with two nuts at 13, 18. Having unscrewed the nut, remove the bolt fixing the ball rod, pulling it out of the standard groove. Installation is carried out in the reverse order, with a new part pressed in and the nuts tightened. Machine maintenance can do this in minutes.

To replace the Renault Sandero air filter, use: Torx T-20, rags, wrenches and a screwdriver. The process is performed by loosening the clamps securing the air duct and branching the resonator pipe away from the barrier cover. Using Torx T-20, according to the video instructions, unscrew the screws securing the filter cover to the body part. We remove it. All parts are wiped off with a rag and a new element is mounted in the provided grooves with its further fixation and connection of the branch pipes.

It is necessary to follow the factory instructions when performing repair work on Renault Sandero. Install components only from trusted distributors. Adhering to these recommendations and advice, your time spent on replacing parts will be only 20-40 minutes. And remember, maintenance, in terms of quality, is an order of magnitude higher.

Replacing the Renault Logan lever not often required, but considering that our roads can kill even the strongest suspension, then this operation sometimes has to be carried out. By the way, removing the Renault Logan suspension arm may be needed to replace the ball joint, for example. Logan and Renault Sandero have similar front suspension designs, so this manual may be useful to Sandero owners.Renault Logan suspension arm is attached to the body subframe through the bushings on one side and through the ball joint to the steering knuckle on the other side.In addition, a stabilizer bar is attached to the lever by means of a stabilizer bar. In the photo, the suspension arm looks like this. Image - Do-it-yourself sandero repair suspension repair

1 - front suspension arm
2 - ball joint cover
3 - ball joint
4 - silent blocks

To remove the suspension arm, it is necessary to hang the front of the car so that both wheels do not touch the ground, otherwise there will be problems with the interfering anti-roll bar. The sequence for removing the lever is as follows -
1. Remove the engine mudguard.
2. Unscrew the lateral stability bar.
3. We turn the ball joint with a 16 key.
We look at the photo of the process.

In order to pull out the Renault Logan ball joint pin from the steering knuckle, you need to slightly unclench the connection of the steering knuckle and the ball joint pin. To do this, you can use a powerful slotted screwdriver. See the photo below.

As soon as we managed to remove the ball finger from the steering knuckle, proceed to the following steps. With a 13 head, we loosen the tightening of the upper bolt securing the subframe bracket to the body, and with an 18 spanner wrench we unscrew the subframe bracket attachment nut and remove the bracket from the front bolt securing the lever to the subframe. Photo attached.

Actually, it remains to unscrew the bolts securing the lever to the subframe. To do this, you need a head and a key for 18. Unscrew the nuts and knock out the two bolts securing the lever. All the lever is in your hands.

An alternative replacement for the Renault Logan lever assembly can be its repair. But in any case, to replace silent blocks or ball bearings, you will have to remove the lever without fail. If the lever has cracks or has lost its geometry, then no repair will help here, only replacement.

Putting everything together in reverse order. We carry out the final broaching of the bolts of the front suspension silent blocks when the car is on its wheels. The tightening torque of the lower arm is 105 Nm or 10.5 kgf · m.

We check the condition of the running gear and transmission every 15 thousand kilometers.
On the parts of the chassis (wheels, suspension arms, anti-roll bar, front suspension subframe, rear suspension beam, shock absorbers and suspension springs) and transmission (front wheel drive shafts) there should be no deformations, cracks or other mechanical damage affecting the shape and strength of parts.
By alternately hanging the front and rear wheels (while the car must be securely fixed on the stands), we check the condition of the wheel bearings.

Use only factory-made stands.
The wheel should rotate by hand evenly, without jamming or knocking.

Grasping the wheel in a vertical plane, alternately sharply pull the upper part of the wheel towards ourselves, and the lower part away from ourselves, and vice versa.
Make sure there is no backlash (knock). If there is a knock on the front wheel, ask the assistant to press the brake pedal. If at the same time the knock disappeared, then the hub bearing is faulty, and if the knock remains, then the ball joint is most likely worn out.
The bearings of the front and rear wheel hubs are not adjustable and must be replaced if there is any backlash.
To check the health of the ball joint, insert a mounting blade between the steering knuckle eyelet (which includes the ball joint pin) and the suspension arm.

Pressing the lever from the steering knuckle with a large screwdriver or a mounting blade, we observe the movement of the ball joint housing relative to the steering knuckle eyelet.
If there is any backlash in the connection, replace the ball joint.

We check the condition of the protective covers of the ball joints of the front suspension.
We replace ball joints with torn or cracked covers.
To check the silent block of the front suspension arm ...

... alternately insert the mounting paddle between the subframe and the end of the outer sleeve of the silent block, on the one hand, and the subframe and the head of the lever, on the other side of the silent block ...
... and try to move the lever head along the bolt axis, first in one direction and then in the other direction. If the lever head moves freely, without effort, it means that the silent block of the lever is badly worn or damaged and must be replaced.
Tears, cracking and swelling of the rubber bushing of the silent block are unacceptable. Similarly, we check the state of the other silent block of the lever.

We inspect the cushions of the anti-roll bar.
If tears, cracks or severe deformation are found in the rubber pads, they must be replaced.
Grasping the stabilizer bar next to its attachment point to the arm ...

... swing the bar up and down sharply.
If a backlash is found in the connection between the stabilizer bar and the front suspension arm, replace the rubber bushings of the screw securing the bar to the arm.
To check the condition of the silent block of the rear axle arm ...

… We insert the mounting blade into a rasp between the body bracket and the end face of the outer sleeve of the hinge and try to move the head of the lever along the axis of the bolt.
If at the same time breaks or peeling of the rubber of the hinge are found, then we replace the silent block.
Checking the condition of the springs and shock absorbers ...

… And rear suspension.
Suspension springs must not be damaged. Tears, cracks and severe deformation of rubber bushings, pads and shock absorbers are unacceptable.
Leakage of liquid from shock absorbers is not allowed. Slight "fogging" of the shock absorber at the top of it while maintaining performance is not a malfunction.
Alternately rotating and turning the front wheels ...

... inspecting the protective covers of the outer ...
… And the internal hinges of the front wheel drives, we check the reliability of their fastening with clamps. Covers that are cracked, torn or have lost their elasticity must be replaced.
The cover of the inner joint of the left wheel drive must be sealed to the gearbox housing.

Leakage of oil from the gearbox through cover 1 and oil seal 2 of the inner hinge of the left wheel drive is not allowed.
Checking for oil leaks from the gearbox ...

… Through the oil seal of the housing of the inner joint of the drive of the right wheel.
If there is a leak, replace the oil seal.

It is quite obvious that any Renault chassis unit must be in good condition. This is especially true of the suspension, since, unlike the engine, which can fail and Renault Sandero simply will not go further, the breakdown of some suspension elements while driving can lead to a serious accident.

1. In addition to the obvious safety, the Renault Sandero chassis is responsible for a comfortable ride and good handling. The most dangerous thing is that in this case there will be a high probability of loss of control, with the next collision with an obstacle that has arisen on the road. Only regular diagnostics of the Renault Sandero chassis will help to avoid such a situation.

Diagnostics of the Renault Sandero chassis includes checking the elements:

springs and shock absorbers;
levers and supports (bearings from above, silent blocks from below);
Renault Sandero stabilizer bushings;
steering rods and rack;
wheel bearings;
CV JOINT.

2. For Renault Sandero owners with experience, it is not difficult to determine the malfunction in the suspension. Experience will tell them what the problem is by the sound and its source. Plus, the most common suspension faults sound pretty much the same in all cars.

Diagnostics of the Renault Sandero chassis should be carried out regularly, even without showing any hint of a malfunction. It is better to do this on a lift, but it can also be done on an ordinary flyover or observation pit.

3. It is important to remember how Renault Sandero behaves in good condition, then any malfunction in the future will be obvious. To understand that something is wrong with a car, you do not need to be an experienced driver, and even more so, an auto mechanic.

Most often, the following signs of malfunctions of the Renault Sandero chassis occur:

the sudden appearance of noise, knocking, bouncing of the Renault Sandero chassis, which can both disappear and remain even on a completely flat road;
too large rolls when cornering and noticeable swaying of the body when passing bumps or when braking;
arbitrary steering to the side, Renault Sandero leads away when driving straight;
uneven tire wear.

4. Most often you can hear the knock of Renault Sandero suspension, it indicates that the rubber elements are worn out or the fasteners that hold them are loose. There are a lot of rubber elements in the chassis, by and large, almost any Renault Sandero suspension unit can knock, as a result, in order to accurately identify the cause of the knock, the car must be inspected from below.

If you hear a crunch, especially when cornering or with a sharp acceleration of Renault Sandero, then we can say with almost complete certainty that the reason lies in the failure of the CV joint of Renault Sandero, the so-called grenade. A squeak most often occurs after replacing the stabilizer bushings, often this indicates a poor-quality bushing.

5. If Renault Sandero began to drift aside, more often it happens after hard passage of pits and potholes, then you may have to do similarity disorder (wheel alignment Renault Sandero). At best, this will eliminate the trouble, at worst, upon impact, something could bend, starting from the steering rod and ending with the steering knuckle.

If at least one of these signs occurs, it is necessary to diagnose the Renault Sandero chassis as soon as possible. Even in the rules, operation with a faulty suspension is expressly prohibited, not to mention the fact that it is simply dangerous.

6. A Renault Sandero suspension silent block not replaced in time, which is not so expensive, can lead to a lever breakage, with a price tag of one hundred dollars. Many drivers drive without paying attention to the sounds that appear in the Renault Sandero chassis, and drive until the sound becomes completely critical, or until something simply falls off, this approach is simply absurd.

7. Periodic visual inspection of the Renault Sandero undercarriage will help save money, after all, if you find a cracked boot or cover in time and make a prompt replacement, then the element that was protected by the boot will last longer. If, when examining Renault Sandero, an already torn boot was found, then you can be sure that soon this suspension element will need to be replaced.

After checking all the anthers, you should start diagnosing the Renault Sandero front suspension elements. The front suspension is more complex than the rear, it is subject to heavy loads, as a result, it breaks much more often. First, we inspect Renault Sandero shock absorbers, they should not have dents or oil leaks. You can also try to swing the shock absorber to the sides, the swing amplitude should be insignificant.

But the easiest way to check the serviceability of this suspension element is to swing the Renault Sandero by pressing the corner where the shock absorber being diagnosed is located. If, after pressing, Renault Sandero, having returned to its original state, continued swinging up and down, then this indicates a malfunction of the shock absorber.

8. Next, the springs of the Renault Sandero chassis are examined, often their turns break off, so you need to inspect them for cracks and the integrity of all turns. But here you can also determine the functionality of the springs without looking under the car. To do this, you just need to pay attention to the clearance of Renault Sandero, if the car has become noticeably lower, then this already indicates a malfunction of the springs, they sagged and can no longer perform their function properly.

9.Ball and silent blocks are checked only from the bottom side of Renault Sandero. To diagnose them, it is better to use some kind of metal lever to make it easier to check everything for backlash, they should not be in a working car. In the same way, the stabilizer and link supports of the Renault Sandero are checked. To check the wheel bearing, you need to shake the wheel, if there is a play, this indicates a poor condition of the bearing.

In car care, and not only, I adhere to the principle: if you want to do well, do it yourself. I do not exclude that there are real specialists in their field. But even the most professional specialist will not do the job the way he would do for himself. Although, I do not consider it a panacea to do everything myself, I just like to service my car with my own hands. In addition, I do not have enough funds for maintenance.

Not long before the onset of TO-60, I prepared for it by purchasing a set of tools and a "murzilka". After I reviewed a bunch of different videos, here I have collected a collection from the guys "repair-Renault" - worthy videos. Then I slowly collected articles of spare parts for my car and looked closely at the analogues. Then I bought the required minimum set of spare parts in the online store. We did it the cheapest way in the Yulsun store.

In addition, I replaced the candles and power steering fluid. I will not describe this too boringly. I will only say that when replacing the candles, it is necessary to blow out the wells from dirt and dust, so that all this does not get into the engine cylinders. I didn't change the brake pads - enough until spring. I generally consider replacing brakes and antifreeze a useless waste of money, but I'll think about it in the spring.

Now let's look at the condition of the old belts. At the time of replacement, the car was 4 years and 1.5 months old, mileage 54,500 km. The old belts look pretty good, I would even say they are in excellent condition. The candles, after a run of 30,000 km, are also in good condition.

In general, all costs for tools, books, spare parts amounted to about 11,000 rubles.
The cost of a "murzilka" and a set of tools, I think, will pay off after two such procedures.
Instead of belt rollers, auxiliary equipment, you can take only bearings and repress them - it will be 2 times cheaper. Now I have the old videos on my hands - another time I will try to do so. You could also save money on the accessory belt tensioner. It is said that a good tensioning belt runs down the center of the roller. My belt runs along the edge on the new one, on the old one. Can someone tell you what's the catch? Old I have not yet investigated in detail in what state it is.

Video (click to play).

I wish you that the valves of your engine never meet the pistons!