In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the meter mercury 201 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Technical assistance for the products manufactured by NPK Incoteks LLC: electricity meters, automated control and energy accounting systems (ASKUE), auxiliary equipment.
Message alexrsz »04 Dec 2015, 21:17
Message Sergey "08 Dec 2015, 10:34
Message alexrsz »19 Jan 2016, 21:57
Message Sergey »20 Jan 2016, 10:58
The service center is engaged in the repair:
Acceptance / return of equipment - (495) 797-67-54
Head of the service center Alexander Yuryevich Chapaikin 8-495-797-67-64
Try to ask your supervisor about the possibility of zeroing the readings.
In the distant past, there are those times when the calculation of electricity bills was carried out on the basis of the power of lighting equipment and other electrical equipment located in the room. Currently, the presence of an electric energy meter is a prerequisite for connecting a consumer to general power supply networks. Modern electricity meters make it possible to accurately determine the amount of consumed electricity and calculate the payment for its use.
But sometimes these reliable devices fail completely and must be replaced. In this case, you need to connect a new device that registers the amount of consumed kW / hours of electricity. Replacing an electric meter is not a very difficult operation, but if you do not understand anything in electrical engineering, then contact an electrician to avoid irreparable mistakes. In the event that you nevertheless decide to install an electric meter with your own hands, then you should choose a reliable device and carefully study the connection diagram of the device in the electrical panel.
Video (click to play). |
The most popular electricity metering devices on the market are devices from the Incotex company. These include single-phase electricity meters Mercury 201 and three-phase Mercury 230. They have high accuracy, reliability, overload resistance, low power consumption and long service life. In this article, we will consider the following questions: the connection diagram of the Mercury meter, both single-phase and three-phase, as well as how to connect the Mercury 201 meter.
Attention! Single-phase electricity meters of the Mercury brand are an excellent replacement for completely outdated, both morally and technologically, electricity meters with rotating discs.
Single-phase electricity meter Mercury 201 is a metering device that monitors electricity consumption "modulo". Such a connection means that installing the device in a network with any current polarity will not affect its operation in any way. If, during installation, the output and the input or the phase are brought to neutral are reversed, this will not lead to catastrophic consequences and the electric meter will continue to take into account the amount of electricity consumed. But still, the manufacturer strongly recommends installing the Mercury 201 meter in accordance with the standard connection diagram. This circuit is fairly simple and easy to understand by the user with minimal knowledge of electrical engineering.
The connection diagram of the three-phase electric meter Mercury 230 is also quite simple, only the number of connected contacts increases, and the principle is the same as with the metering device Mercury 201. True, for three-phase devices there are two connection options: direct and semi-indirect through current transformers. Connection through current transformers is carried out with a load of more than 60 kW. Let's consider both options separately.
- Direct connection. In this case, the device is connected directly to the three-phase main power line through the input machines. If the house or apartment has a standard set of electrical appliances and household appliances, then direct connection is the right option. If there is a large number of equipment at the facility that consumes electricity, you should choose a different connection scheme.
- Semi-indirect connection. As already mentioned, this option for connecting a Mercury 230 meter is used when the power of the serviced electrical equipment is over 60 kW. In such a scheme, current transformers are used, in which the primary winding is the phase conductor of the network. For electricity meters connected using current transformers, regulatory documents provide for special requirements for their installation.
We examined the connection diagrams for the Mercury 201 and Mercury 230 meters. This information is basic, according to which the installation of these metering devices in the switchboard should be performed. The installation of electricity meters from the Mercury company must be carried out in accordance with the requirements of regulatory documents and the manufacturer. Using the example of connecting the Mercury 201 counter, we will consider this process in detail.
Recommendations! All electricians recommend connecting any model of electricity meters through circuit breakers, as well as using residual current devices (RCDs).
The connection of the Mercury 201 meter in the electrical panel is carried out according to the diagram discussed above or printed in the technical documentation attached to the device. The installation of the electricity meter in the switchboard is carried out on a DIN rail using a special mounting plate, but we will consider this process without being tied to the switchboard. As a sample, let's take a metering device with a mechanical indicator of the amount of consumed electricity.
The standard connection diagram for the Mercury 201 meter is located on the inner side of the device cover, which covers the contacts of the device.
The whole process of connecting an electric meter is reduced to a few simple steps, which will be described below.
- At the first stage, we remove the cover that covers the contacts for connecting the input and output conductors. We will see four contacts, the first two of which are used to connect the phase conductors coming from the input machines and going to the load. Another pair of contacts is designed to connect the network zero and the load.
- At the second stage, we loosen all four clamps of the connected conductors, strip the ends of the wires from insulation and proceed directly to connecting the meter to the electricity supply network.
- First, we connect the phase conductors from the supply network and load. Next, we connect the zero wires and securely tighten the screws of the contact pads.
- At the last stage, we put the protective cover back in place, after removing the jumpers at the inlet openings, and check the operability of the device. If the device is connected correctly, the red LED will light up; otherwise, you should check the correspondence of the installation to the wiring diagram, and if necessary, invite an electrician.
As we can see, the installation of an electric meter in an electrical network is a very simple operation that can be done independently. But it should be noted that if you were able to install the Mercury 201 meter with your own hands, then after that you need to invite a representative of the electricity supplier to check the quality of the meter installation and its sealing.
Important! Before proceeding with the installation of an electric meter of the Mercury series, it is necessary to de-energize the network by turning off the input machines, plugs or other switching devices.
In this article, we examined the connection diagrams for Mercury electricity meters in a visual form. The question of the place of installation, methods of mounting the device and other features of connecting metering devices was not considered, since this is a topic for another article!
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Electricity meter "Mercury - 201" is currently the most popular metering device in our country. Counters of this model successfully replace old models with a rotating disk.
In this article we will talk about what features and characteristics this meter has, as well as how it is connected.
These metering devices have been produced by the domestic company Incotex since 2001. This manufacturer has established itself as a high-class, engaged in the production of both single-phase meters for household needs, and complex three-phase designs.
This device has several modifications from 201.1 to 201.8. And also all units from this series can be divided into types depending on the permissible operating current and the way in which information on electricity consumption is reflected.
The "Mercury 201" counter is a rectangular plastic case with an LCD display on the front with information about the consumed energy. On the right on the front side there is technical information in the form of a table. The device case is compact in size.
The lower part of the meter body can be removed and provides access to the contacts of the device. All wires are connected using a screw connection. To fix the meter on a vertical surface, it is necessary to use a DIN rail, which is equipped with almost all modern metering devices.
Depending on the configuration, these counters are electromechanical, where a special drum is a counting device, or electronic, where all readings are displayed.
Thanks to the polarity reversal, all meters of this series are protected from theft of electrical energy. It also has the following characteristics:
- Certain indicators of the operating temperature, which are in the range between -20 and +55 degrees.
- The product is guaranteed for 3 years from the date of purchase.
- The maximum service life of the meter, which is 30 years after installation.
- The calibration interval is 15 years.
Before buying an electric meter, you need to check whether it meets all the necessary requirements. This includes the presence of an accuracy class, usually for electricity meters this is the first or second class, which allow a measurement error of 1-2%.
It is also worth checking in advance if the date of production and verification of the meter is indicated. It is imperative to clarify the number for the presence of measuring instruments in the State Register database and the warranty seal on the device itself. And it is worth making sure that there is a brand of the verifier and a protective hologram.
In advance, before installing the meter, the following details are agreed with the power supply company:
- Place of installation. This is usually done outside the apartment or house, but the installation can also be done inside.
- The counter model to be installed. This is where you need the technical documents that you received upon purchase.
- Checking the quality of the wiring diagram and wiring.
Before connecting the meter, it is necessary to carefully study the technical data sheet for the product, as well as clarify the connection diagram. If the master is not confident in his abilities, then it is necessary to use the services of professionals. Very often many questions arise regarding how to connect the "Mercury-201" counter, but in fact there are no particular difficulties in this process.
The single-phase device is designed to switch on the following input contacts:
- Contact for the implementation of the phase entry into the room from the external network. The wire is obtained from the enterprise - the electricity supplier.
- ShVVP cable is intended for the phase output inside the connected room.
- Terminal for connecting zero from the common network.
- Zero output terminal to load inward.
All wires are connected in the named sequence.
The connected wires are neatly positioned on the terminal cover using perforated cells.The lid itself is mounted on the body as tightly as possible.
After that, you need to make sure once again that the connection diagram has been observed, and call a representative of the electrical company, who will carry out the verification and install the appropriate seal on the meter.
You can advise before buying such a complex device as an electricity meter, read the reviews for this device. That is why we post several reviews of real buyers who share their opinions on this unit.
Several years ago we connected the Mercury 201 meter. " All this time it has been working properly. I liked the fact that its installation is done quickly enough, even my son, a student of a technical university, figured out the connection diagram quickly.
I bought this meter for a private house, but made a mistake and installed it on the facade. Due to the temperature difference, small errors occur. This, of course, is not so critical, but still unpleasant. This device is not bad in terms of quality and can be advised, but only when installed inside the house.
It took a long time to choose a counter for a bath. We settled on this model. A familiar electrician quickly connected it and suggested what to do so that there was no error when installing it outdoors. To do this, you need to install a special closed shield that will not let low temperatures pass.
Couldn't find a better reading device. This counter is ideal in all respects and does its job perfectly. First they put it to my mother, and then they replaced their own with the same one. Now we don't know the problems.
Electricity metering is now a difficult process, for which it is important to choose the right quality equipment. The Russian-made Mercury 201 counter stands out among its peers on the market for its high quality and reasonable cost. This meter is suitable for both a private house and an apartment, and it can be installed even outdoors. A lot of positive reviews speak of the popularity and excellent characteristics of this unit.
This article discusses a visual diagram for connecting a meter with a photo. The fixing points of the meter and the place of its installation are not considered here; the issue of the meter connection diagram is considered. Do not forget that before starting work, it is necessary to remove the voltage from the place of electrical work.
We will consider the connection diagram of a single-phase electric meter using the example of the Mercury 201 meter. The Mercury 201 meter has a rated current I nom = 5-50A. Therefore, for this meter, it is necessary to select a circuit breaker to protect it from short-circuit currents. How to choose a circuit breaker is described in detail in the article - selection of protection devices .
When connecting a single-phase meter, the wire cross-section must be calculated for the rated current of this meter, how to choose the wire cross-section is described in detail in the article - selection of wire cross-section .
Single-phase meter Mercury 201 is presented in Photo №1.
Photo # 1. Single-phase electric meter Mercury 201
The meter connection diagram is indicated on the back side of the meter cover, which is shown in Photo No. 2.
Photo # 2. Wiring diagram for a single-phase meter Mercury 201
Let's get started. The first thing we do is remove the counter cover, look at Photo # 3.
We see four positions for connecting wires.
The first position is necessary to connect the phase supply wire from the input circuit breaker. The second position is necessary to connect the phase load conductor, it goes to the power supply of consumers. The third position is necessary to connect the neutral wire from the input machine. The fourth position is necessary to connect the neutral load wire, it goes to consumers.
Next, unscrew the clamps of all four positions so that you can insert the wire into position. See Photo # 4.
We remove the insulation from the wire by about 2.3 cm.Please note that enough insulation must be removed from the inserted wire in position, it is necessary that the insulation does not interfere with the tightening of the wire clamps, otherwise poor contact may be created, and the insulation may melt. Pay attention to this note, this is a common mistake of novice electricians. Insert the wire in position until it stops. The phase wire is white, the neutral wire is blue.
The photo shows a copper wire with a cross section of 2.5 mm 2. This wire is used as an example of a single-phase meter connection diagram and is not a reference option. In any case, the choice of wire cross-section depends on the installed power of the consumer, and how to determine it can be read in the article - Selection of wire cross-section .
Go ahead. We connect the phase supply wire from the input machine, then we connect the phase load wire as shown in photo # 5:
Next, we connect the neutral wires. We get the following:
We tighten the bolt clamps of all four positions well. Next, you need to install the meter cover. There are special places in the cover for cutting holes for wires (see Photo # 3). Cut out the holes, install and tighten the lid. The final version is as follows:
Thus, a single-phase electric meter Mercury 201 is connected. Single-phase electric meters from other manufacturers are connected in the same way.
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The single-phase meter circuit is quite simple... In this article, I will tell you how to connect a single phase meter. I already wrote earlier how to choose the right electric meter for a house, apartment. Now, after purchasing a meter, a new task is facing - to connect a single-phase meter to the mains.
Single-phase meters for houses and apartments are made of direct connection, i.e. without additional step-down current transformers.
There is nothing complicated in connecting a single-phase meter, carefully study the documentation before installing the meter, instructions, examples of connecting single-phase meter circuits, etc. To correctly connect a single-phase meter, we first of all need a single-phase meter circuit, which can be found:
- documentation, with which the electric meter is completed - this is a passport, instruction or form for the meter, which indicates all the characteristics, serial number, dates of manufacture and verification of the meter, and of course - the single-phase meter circuit itself;
- additionally, the set of documents for the meter may include and manual, which will also indicate the circuit of a single-phase meter;
- without fail, on the back of the terminal cover any electricity meter will be applied single phase meter circuit;
- and of course, there is a single-phase meter circuit on the Internet.
Having studied the scheme of a single-phase meter "on paper", we turn directly to the electricity meter itself.
A simple single-phase meter has 4 contacts on the terminal block:
- terminal number 1 - phase input from the external network (to the house or apartment)
- terminal number 2 - phase output (inside the house or apartment)
- terminal number 3 - zero input from the external network (to the house or apartment)
- terminal number 4 - zero output (inside the house or apartment)
In the same sequence, we connect the wires to the contacts of our single-phase electric meter, not forgetting to turn off the machine, plugs or a switch that is installed in front of the single-phase electric meter, if your input cable (wire) immediately comes to the meter, in this case, you must disconnect the line.
When replacing an old single-phase electricity meter, if you decide to replace it yourself or call a friend-neighbor-electrician, at least make a call to your network company, management company, HOA and find out what needs to be done to replace a single-phase meter. Main question - who will break the seal from the old meter.
If you break the seal from an old electricity meter, and install a new one, and only then inform the mains about it, serious problems may arise. You may be accused of stealing electricity (broken seal) and will impose a large fine.
Scheme of a single-phase meter, when an introductory machine is installed in front of the meter. This should be the case according to the PUE, but if the input machine cannot be sealed, the network organization will not allow such a meter connection scheme.
Scheme of a single-phase meter, when an introductory machine is installed after the meter. This option for connecting an electric meter is used if it is not possible to seal the input machine. The cable (wire) is connected directly to the electricity meter, the terminal cover is sealed and there is no possibility of electricity theft.
Single-phase electricity meters Mercury 201 are the most common energy meters today. They replaced the old, morally and technologically outdated, spinning disc meters.
If you decide to buy a Mercury meter and connect it yourself, this information may be useful to you.
Mercury meters have been manufactured by the Russian company Incotex since 2001. The manufacturer guarantees the quality and reliable operation of the device for up to 30 years.
When purchasing a Mercury meter (201 series), it is necessary to check compliance with the basic requirements specified in the documentation:
- accuracy class - (can be 1 or 2). This parameter indicates the permissible measurement error (1 or 2%);
- date of manufacture of the meter (this is the date of verification of the device);
- the number of the entry of the energy metering device (Mercury 201) in the State Register of Measuring Instruments.
Check for the presence of a guarantee seal (with the date of manufacture of the meter), the stamp of the state verifier (with the date of verification), holograms (protection against counterfeiting).
Depending on the modification, Mercury 201 counters can be:
- electromechanical. The counting device is a mechanical drum. (Mercury 201.5, 201.6, 201.7).
- Electronic. The reading device works on the basis of electronic circuits. (Mercury 201.2, 201.4, 201.8). The results of electricity metering are displayed on the liquid crystal display.
Before installing and connecting the electricity meter, you need to carefully read the operating manual, the device passport, and study the direct connection diagram.
The single-phase meter on the terminal block contains 4 input contacts:
- Contact for entering a phase from an external network (220V) into an apartment or house. The input wire is supplied from the utility company.
- Contact for the exit of the phase inside the apartment or house. For the output, you can use a wire of the SHVVP type.
- Terminal for connecting zero from the external network to an apartment or house.
- The zero output terminal is further to the load, that is, inside the apartment or house.
The connection of the wires should be done in the same sequence.
Important to remember! Before connecting the meter, it is necessary to de-energize the system by turning off the machine, plugs, switch (if they are installed between the main trunk line and the meter).If the lead-in cable goes directly to the meter, disconnect the supply line.
The connected wires are neatly laid, for this purpose there are perforated breakout cells on the terminal cover. The cover is screwed to fit snugly to the meter body.
Check the wiring diagram again, install the cover. Then, a representative of the grid organization, which provides the supply and metering of electricity, the meter is being sealed Mercury 201... There is a special hole in the meter for this.
When the meter is connected to the mains, a red indicator light comes on.
To connect the Mercury 201 meter to the electrical network, you need to study the documentation well, be able to read electrical diagrams, remember to strictly observe the phases and markings (colors) of the wires.
Also watch the video, which shows step-by-step instructions for installing and connecting a single-phase meter.
DVT humidity and temperature sensors Apparently, leading manufacturers consider this installation method to be the most rational, because today most metering devices are fixed precisely due to such a rail, for example, the Take-off heat meter considered earlier.
Such a counter is screwless, due to which it is maximally protected from burglaries, besides, the mechanism is quite sealed.
RadioLocman Radio Yearbook For Authors Cooperation Contacts RL in social networks: As for the input wire, everything is clear here - it will be the way the power supply company defines it. Features in the design Basic and additional characteristics Connection diagram. He has vast experience in the design of fiscal instruments. Now you practically do not find old morally and technologically obsolete meters. As a rule, on the inner side of the terminal covers of the electricity meter, the connection diagram for the electricity meters is shown, and our Mercury meter is no exception.
For three-phase meters, it will be 1 year. Despite the popularity of Mercury counters, I have my own opinion about them, and not in a very good way. The bottom panel of the case is removable - it protects the contacts of the device. To the wall or to any other surface that the consumer chooses to mount the meter with a DIN-rail.
In other words, by removing it, you can gain access to the input electrical contacts of the meter. DIY desktop 3D printer. You have opened Wiring diagrams ZU M ZU P ZU 2. Posted May 5,
As for the input wire, everything is clear here - it will be the way the power supply company defines it. We'll talk about one of these models. This is more convenient than doing it the other way around, since the screws of the terminals of the electric meter cannot be unscrewed without a good effort, and on a dangling electric meter, it is inconvenient to do this.
Charger circuit Sonar UZ Serial separation is carried out depending on the permissible operating current, as well as on the way of displaying the energy consumption data. There are 2 of them for each terminal, they look small, but I must note that the wires clamp well.
Advertising on RL Price list placement Subscription to updates Magazines: Posted February 7, First, a little about the manufacturer.
In other words, by removing it, you can gain access to the input electrical contacts of the meter. Advertising on RL Price list placement Subscription to updates Magazines:
People earn money on this, I know one such person. You have decided to replace the old meter, or you are connecting a new house, apartment, country house or garage, and you need to buy a new meter. The serial division is carried out depending on the permissible operating current as well as the way in which the energy consumption data is displayed.
In this article I will talk about a single-phase one-rate meter Mercury Nocturne 31 Kb - a domestic appliance electrophone. Or sign in with one of these services Sign in with Facebook. Maybe who else knows? It is a rectangular plastic case.
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The points.
It is possible without a solid state.It is also possible with magnetic starters. What for? In any case, a mechanical relay pulls an order of magnitude more than a TV / TV relay, loses a lot in size, it is easy to listen to a click. Moreover, it is not necessary to supply power to it, walk around the body with a magnet and listen carefully. Or even simpler: search for an input phrase and you will hear false positives of the relay contacts.
Open the engine mt. mechanism is not entirely correct, but this is not for everybody. Personally, I adjust the flow readings.
I completely agree with self-contained power supply.
An interesting solution to the power supply of the device in the photo. Why are the consumption readings so low? The extinguishing condender 0.22mF raises doubts, everything is at the limit, but if this is a working circuit, then full respect. But doubts are strong. When the receiver and the processor are powered by 3-3.5V, their consumption will be at the level of 3-5mA, the parametric stabilizer is 6mA minimum, the relay is 8mA. Total 16mA. An extinguishing condender at 022mF is capable of passing 14-15mA. Everything is at the limit. It is impossible to guarantee reliable operation of the relay, and the operability of the circuit is in doubt.
This post has been edited sipay - Aug 22 2015, 08:13 PM
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Relays, microcircuits, power supplies - that's a big deal! Why such implementations?
I have been packing devices for a little over three years now, and all I put there is a 1.5cm * 4cm Masterkit shawl.
In addition, on this scarf I get a bunch of functions - indication of clicks with a standard LED (you can turn it off), a two-interval non-volatile timer with a separate setting for each interval for any intervals (this is when you get tired of running around with the remote control), etc.
I think this approach is of higher quality and more worthy.
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Firstly. This system has a serious flaw. She remembers her last state, that is, after removing and then restoring the power supply, she restores her state in which it was before the shutdown.
Secondly. Even if you turn off the LED, after a short workout, you can connect a 2nd standard key fob to it, which allows you to calculate this system without applying physical and intellectual efforts.
If the first drawback can be easily eliminated by a small program change and a PIC flashing, the second is much more difficult to eliminate, in practice the device needs to be recreated.
The power supply unit, as someone already wrote, should be autonomous and not only because of the ease of installation. Any modification of your own power supply unit (replacement of a quenching capacitor and a buffer resistor) in most devices is easy to view through the upper transparent cover.
Timers are of no interest at all. The process must be constantly monitored because inspectors do not come on schedule and it is difficult to say in what state the apparatus will be at the moment of their appearance.
So before you pontovate you need to study the problem in all aspects. In general, good luck to you and all the soldiers of our invisible (unfortunately not always) front.
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Wow, 3 years down the drain, how could I not think about the topic like that, apparently I will have to officially declare the recall of the products.
As the saying goes: "You finished me off, partner." (By the way, this is how my phone says when the battery is running out; it seems like a trifle, but it becomes funny every time)
Well, okay, I decided to post the instructions for the latest version here, which I usually accompany the "system" with, suddenly someone will be interested, so to speak, to evaluate the approach as a whole. For 3 years, of course, there were many changes, initially, for example, I put buzzers so that they would beep, but it turned out that they were not entirely reliable, later I switched to LEDs, especially since they are always standard, supplemented-thrown out functions, response algorithms to pressing, in general, any little things.As a result, as practice shows, I brought it almost to the ideal, but there was one minus - this kit's set of 1.5 tr. worth it, and there's nothing you can do about it (at least break into China).
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Wow, 3 years down the drain, how could I not think about the topic like that, apparently I will have to officially declare the recall of the products.
As the saying goes: "You finished me off, partner." (By the way, this is how my phone says when the battery is running out; it seems like a trifle, but it becomes funny every time)
Video (click to play). |
Well, okay, I decided to post the instructions for the latest version here, which I usually accompany the "system" with, suddenly someone will be interested, so to speak, to evaluate the approach as a whole. For 3 years, of course, there were many changes, initially, for example, I put buzzers so that they would beep, but it turned out that they were not entirely reliable, later I switched to LEDs, especially since they are always standard, supplemented-thrown out functions, response algorithms to pressing, in general, any little things. As a result, as practice shows, I brought it almost to the ideal, but there was one minus - this kit's set of 1.5 tr. worth it, and there's nothing you can do about it (at least break into China).