In detail: do-it-yourself sea pro repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
I have already told quite a lot about low-power outboard motors such as FISHER 2.5 in detail: about disassembly, assembly, tuning, tuning, etc. But I have not yet talked about finding the reasons for outboard motors failures that can occur during fishing. But accurate diagnostics and quick search for breakdowns can significantly reduce the repair time and increase the number of fishing trips.
Of course, a faulty motor can be taken to a service and the solution of the problem can be entrusted to the masters, but the service takes a lot of money even for a banal oil change in the gearbox. And for the search and elimination of a more serious malfunction, the service will ask for a fairly substantial amount. And not everyone has the service itself. Therefore, it makes sense to try to find and fix the malfunction yourself.
This is what we will be talking about today. I will tell you how to carry out a preliminary diagnosis of a motor malfunction, how to determine what is out of order. I'll tell you how to check the engine ignition system at home.
So, let's say that while fishing, your engine stops starting. Or such a case: you are returning from fishing, suddenly the engine stalls and refuses to start. What is the reason? In which direction to focus the search for the problem?
There can be only two reasons why the engine suddenly stalls and refuses to start: it is a malfunction in the power supply system, or a malfunction in the electrical system of the motor. And to determine in which direction to search for a malfunction, an ordinary lighter can help. Or rather, not an ordinary one, but only one that, when ignited, begins to glow and flash like a police car's flasher.
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Video (click to play). |
The principle of operation of a lighter is as follows: inside it has a small electronic circuit that is sensitive to high voltage. When you press the lighter button, the piezoelectric element generates a high voltage pulse (10-15 kV), as a result of which a spark arises, which ignites the gas. The same impulse is caught by the circuit, it is triggered, and multi-colored LEDs start blinking. After a few seconds, the diodes go out, and the circuit goes into standby mode, until the next start. Well, since the lighter can catch high voltage pulses, then it can be used as an indicator when determining a malfunction in a boat motor.
So, the engine won't start and we need to determine what is broken in it. To do this, with one hand, we apply the lighter to the engine lining in the place where the ignition coil, high-voltage wire, or candle is located, and pull the starter cord.
Below, in the photo, on the motor are marked the places where the lighter indicator is triggered.
If, at the same time, the lighter shone like a garland of a Christmas tree, then everything is not so scary, then the switch and the ignition coil are in good order, and the problem is most likely in the fuel system. Possible reasons:
- The simplest one, it ran out of fuel. Check for the presence of fuel in the tank.
- Forgot to open the ventilation on the tank lid. There is a vacuum inside and no fuel flows into the carburetor. Unscrew the thumbscrew on the tank cap.
- Clogged fuel filter. Remove and clean the filter.
- Fuel cock clogged. Remove, clean and blow out the valve.
- A foreign body has entered the fuel hose and shut off the fuel supply. Disconnect the hose from the carburetor and fuel cock and blow out with air.
- The float needle blocked the fuel supply channel and remained in this position. Sometimes, lightly tapping on the carburetor can solve this problem.
- The spark plug is heavily flooded. The carburetor choke is closed. Replace the spark plug, check the position of the damper.
If the lighter does not blink, then this is much worse, and if all the electrical connections are in order, the engine shutdown check is set to "work" mode, and you do not have a spare switch and ignition coil with you, then it is unlikely that you will be able to fix the malfunction on the spot ... The absence of flashing of the lighter indicates that there is no high voltage. And it may not exist for three reasons:
- breakage of the terminals in the generator coil;
- the CDI switch is out of order;
- the ignition coil is out of order.
Thus, a lighter can significantly speed up the search for the cause of a motor malfunction. The lighter has two more useful functions, it is, of course, a backup source of fire, and a small flashlight.
This lighter is a useful addition to your motor tools. Therefore, I always have it in a case, in the spare parts for the motor.
At home, you can check the engine ignition system more thoroughly and in detail. To do this, you need to remove the right half of the cladding. You will also need a 15 - 30 volt light bulb, with short wires soldered to it. Also, an ohmmeter is desirable.
It is unlikely that the generator coil can burn out, since when the coil is shorted to ground, the motor will simply stall. Actually, according to this principle, the motor is muffled: when you press the muffle button, the coil is closed to ground. But we will adhere to the principle "anything is possible".
Only one wire comes out from under the flywheel of the motor. This is the output from the generator coil. We break it (there is a connector) and connect the wire that goes to the light bulb. We hook the second wire from the light bulb to ground.
It is advisable to measure the resistance of the coil. It should be in the range of 290 - 300 ohms. (Fisher 2.5 motor). If the resistance is much less, there is an interturn short circuit in the coil. If the resistance is infinite, it is an open circuit.
Unlike checking the generator, the lamp connected to the switch will not light up constantly, but flashes. It will flicker. This is due to the fact that the voltage is not supplied to the light bulb constantly, but only at the moment the storage capacitor is discharged. That is, only when the piston is at the top and bottom dead center.
If at the moment of jerking the starter the light does not light up, or is constantly on, as when checking the generator coil, then the switch is faulty. If the switch is working, the light will light up in flashes.
In a serviceable ignition coil, the resistance of the primary winding is 0.20 Ohm, practically equal to zero. Secondary - 2.9-3 kOhm. You can check the coil with a lighter, as mentioned above, or in the old, proven way: by unscrewing the candle, we apply it with a base to the mass and pull the cord. The presence of a spark on the electrodes of the candle indicates that the coil is in good working order, if, of course, the candle itself is in good working order.
It should be borne in mind that the presence of a spark on the electrodes of the candle does not mean that it is in good order. The spark may be on the twisted spark plug, and may not be present on the one installed in the motor. This is due to the fact that there are other conditions in the engine cylinder: the compression ratio, the moisture content of the fuel mixture. Therefore, it is better to replace a suspicious candle with a new one.
That, perhaps, is all. If you have any questions - ask. Boating season is coming soon and I'm ready for it!
Nestor "20 Jul 2016, 14:35
dqdmitry "20 Jul 2016, 14:50
Guest account »20 Jul 2016, 14:52
Vitaly »20 Jul 2016, 14:59
dqdmitry »20 Jul 2016, 15:07
Guest account »20 Jul 2016, 15:56
Yes. There it is littered with garbage.
When we walked along the BM, I turn my head and see that it is pouring badly, although just a couple of minutes ago the jet was very strong. He stopped, took the pin from Olga, straightened it completely and joked with the running engine in control, it poured again normally. In my case, I think there was salt, but it also happened that garbage got into it.
Although it was, as Vitalik says, it is true on a 10 year old engine. The jet disappeared. I opened it, the impeller was visually intact, changed it to a new one, everything worked.
Vitaly "20 Jul 2016, 16:44
dqdmitry »20 Jul 2016, 18:09
On what basis does he say that the motor is heating up? It's not clear yet.
If he explains, we will find out.
———- Post posted at 20:38 ———- Previous post posted at 20:15 ———-
I'm new to this forum, but I shoveled all the topics about Sia about T5 before buying. The boat was taken by Hunter 320. Before that there was a motorboat Crimea and motors vortex 25 and 30. Why did I create a new topic, because I did not find what I wanted And many topics seem to start specifically on the topic, and then flow into an argument or the topic changes smoothly. A dispute is good when facts and evidence, and not just verbal skirmish. But closer to the topic. I went through a run-in, there were no problems. But I noticed oil at the bottom of the sump, and it is at the bottom, starting from the carburetor and the suction and ending with the drain hole under the spark plugs. Some kind of emulsion. I wiped everything, the gasket under the crankcase is visually intact, all the bolts are stretched. The next day everything happened again. While I'm sinning on the carburetor, maybe from it spits because the mixture is rich? I didn’t regulate, I think when I pour 1 to 50, then I’ll look. And so small are good, it goes smoothly, without interruption. And then I went and after an hour's drive the speed began to drop and stalled. I pulled silence. I unscrewed the candle, the spark seemed weak or it was just bad during the day. the bottom. Wives on the oars while I was spinning the candle. After about five minutes I jerked and wound up, as if not happened and drove off. After half an hour everything repeated. I did not overheat, the jet was cold. I changed the candle, I also used a built-in tank. Open the cork on the tank. I have not forgotten. What to do, where to climb? Maybe someone came across)))
———- Post posted at 20:38 ———- Previous post posted at 20:15 ———-
I'm new to this forum, but I shoveled all the topics about Sia about T5 before buying. The boat was taken by Hunter 320. Before that there was a motorboat Crimea and motors vortex 25 and 30. Why did I create a new topic, because I did not find what I wanted And many topics seem to start specifically on the topic, and then flow into an argument or the topic changes smoothly. A dispute is good when facts and evidence, and not just verbal skirmish. But closer to the topic. I went through a run-in, there were no problems. But I noticed oil at the bottom of the sump, and it is at the bottom, starting from the carburetor and the suction and ending with the drain hole under the spark plugs. Some kind of emulsion. I wiped everything, the gasket under the crankcase is visually intact, all the bolts are stretched. The next day everything happened again. While I'm sinning on the carburetor, maybe from it spits because the mixture is rich? I didn’t regulate, I think when I pour 1 to 50, then I’ll look. And so small are good, it goes smoothly, without interruption. And then I went and after an hour's drive the speed began to drop and stalled. I pulled silence. I unscrewed the candle, the spark seemed weak or it was just bad during the day. the bottom. Wives on the oars while I was spinning the candle. After about five minutes I jerked and wound up, as if not happened and drove off. After half an hour everything repeated. I did not overheat, the jet was cold. I changed the candle, I also used a built-in tank. Open the cork on the tank. I have not forgotten. What to do, where to climb? Maybe someone came across)))
Often this behavior is from an electrician. Moreover, both the switch and the BB coil can be buggy. Warmed up - glitches began, cooled down - glitches disappeared. It is difficult to check what exactly it is, only by replacing it is possible.
Oil in the pan - if the engine is completely thrown back, then gasoline can flow out of the carb into the pan. Then the benz is evaporated, and the oil remains. Look, maybe from this.
Friends, please tell me. We installed a sea-pro 9.9 motor on a badger boat 3.40m long. At full throttle with a load, one I (90 kg) and a tank of gasoline, the maximum speed, measured by the navigator, is 14 km / h. Is this the way it should be, or something can be done? thanks in advance for your reply.
No, it shouldn't be. Already 30 km / h should be in any case.
specify more precisely the model of the motor.
year of release and volume of dvigla?
I drove the same badger for 3 seasons (olive).
when the loka lifts his nose, deviate a little in front of that would go to the glide)))))
sea pro T 9.9, displacement 202 cm3, purchased in 2013, ship model CL 340
nothing to measure, but the feeling as if it is not gaining momentum
yes, as soon as I did not change my position in the boat (I also have a pipe on the tiller). does not help (((. More than 14 km / hour, regardless of whether I am alone or together, does not pick up speed
but how to understand whether they are dead or not? we have two sets of candles.They changed them, no reaction (((. Just one specialist said that the mixture is rich (like it is not gaining momentum). We will now look for the main jet)
Well the candles. they must not be dirty :) They must have the correct clearance - the instructions must be written. And so there and wires can pierce. It is necessary to watch.
Dmitry, in general, came to the unequivocal conclusion that he does not gain more than three thousand revolutions, due to the fact that the mixture is enriched. We disassembled the carburetor, hoping to find a jet with which you can adjust the injection, and of the type to make the air-fuel mixture the way it should be. All jets are non-adjustable, and in general there is no adjustment in the carburetor. we will take it to the service, we will require repair or replacement.
With this, you over here. You will be unpleasantly surprised .. Link.
Yes, this is one of those new ones. Popadalovo. Abortion from cohabitation of Chinese and Stork designers. To the store with a claim for delivery urgently!
Thanks for the disappointing news. The service center acknowledged the problem, they said that at the end of the week there would be instructions for setting up the motor. Does anyone have experience of returning motors to the store, or can someone suggest a thread on the forum?
There is no setting there, I have already come across 2 such motors. Better not suffer, return the money and turn to another brand.
Stas is right, there is nothing to regulate))) I will not be surprised if the Chinese have assembled the engine incorrectly at all. At least I have already seen the broken valve timing on a completely new four-stroke))))
Stuck with phishing:
A summary of the previous 108 pages.
- A motor bought in a store, if you just install it on a boat and give it gasoline, does not run, at least in 99 cases out of 100
- There are 2 options to remedy the situation:
Option A - return it to the store by exchanging it for another motor or for money. I must admit - this option is somewhat shameful, a demarche, so to speak, before the problem that has arisen.
option B - "bring the engine to mind with your own hands", for this all the recommendations have already been described - change the benz to the 80th, change the propeller to the high-speed one, conjure with the ignition and the carburetor, and if it does not help - grind the block by a couple of milliliters - though in as a result, we lose the guarantee, but that's it, little things.
Well, and the most extreme option, we are waiting for Stork LLC to give birth to an official version of fixing the problem, though. it is hard to believe that this will happen in the near future.
The result of my research showed that a carb and intake valves from a 169 cm3 model were stupidly introduced to the 202 cm3 engine. It will not go))). Give it back.
Well, and the windows, it seems, no one sawed.
They recommend pouring the 80th, even better than the 66th and try it on kerosene. 🙂
understandably. thanks a lot for the advice. Probably we will do so.
++++ Option B - “bring the engine to mind with your own hands”, for this, all the recommendations have already been described - change the benz to the 80th, change the propeller to a high-speed one, conjure up the ignition and the carburetor, and if it does not help, we grind the block for a couple milliliters - though in the end we lose the guarantee, but that's it, little things. +++++
stupid question - why all this? Buy a NEW motor for quite normal money for subsequent witchcraft. I understand if they sold it for 5-6 thousand, purely for the Kulibins. But I don’t understand.
Can you please tell me how to return the motor smoothly? what arguments to give, what to write, etc.?
Xi's lack of traction is a pro-factory "FAILURE!" carburetor! The Chinese proceed from the theory - Finish it yourself! You are Russian. By fine-tuning I will say Change the nozzle of the jet to a smaller one in diameter! Since the mixture at 2.3 rpm is very rich and does not want to grow poor! "LYOT" Zhekler as out of a bucket! I Reduced it by half. The speed has increased! I will experiment-REDUCE STILL. GOOD LUCK to you "Russian Kulibins"
1 OUTBOARD MOTOR SEA-PRO F2.5 Operating manual MP15 1
6 Engine Oil Transmission Oil The use of high quality four-stroke oil will significantly extend the high quality hypoid transmission life of your motor.Use only SAE 90 oil. API certified SE, SF, SG, SH and SJ oils. The viscosity index of the oil should be SAE 10W-40. If, for some reason, the use of such oil is not possible, replace it with an alternative analogue in accordance with the table below. The use of high-quality engine oil significantly affects the operation of the engine and prolongs its service life. 6
9 PROPELLER SELECTION AND INSTALLATION Propeller Selection When choosing a propeller, consider the boat characteristics and operating conditions. Remember that full throttle engine speed depends on the propeller being used. Installing a propeller with too large or, on the contrary, too small a pitch can cause a violation of the maximum engine speed, which can lead to serious damage to the motor. Full throttle operating range: Propeller Installation When installing or removing the propeller, make sure the shift knob is in neutral and the spark plug wires are disconnected to prevent accidental starting of the engine. Wear gloves to avoid cutting yourself with the propeller blades. Place a block of wood between the anti-cavitation plate and the screw to hold the screw in place. To install the propeller, perform the following procedure: 1. Lubricate the propeller shaft splines 1 with a special waterproof grease to prevent rpm corrosion. 2. Install the shear pin 2 on the propeller shaft. 3. Place screw 3 on the shaft. 4. Insert the cotter pin 4 and bend it so that the screw cannot come off. To remove the propeller, reverse the above procedure. 10
10 ADJUSTMENTS Trim Angle Adjustment To maintain stable steering and good efficiency, maintain the proper trim angle as shown in the illustration. The required angle depends on the characteristics of the boat, motor, propeller and operating conditions. 3. Pull out the gasket 2 and pin 3 as far as the stop on both sides of the retaining bracket. 4. Insert the pin into the desired slot. 5. Push back the spacer 2 and pin 3 and tighten the nut. Lower the motor. To lower the motor, move the pin towards the boat. To tilt the motor, move the pin away from the boat. Steering effort adjustment Steering should be smooth and not too tight. Adjust the steering firmness so that you feel a slight resistance when cornering. Turn screw A clockwise to increase steering stiffness. Counterclockwise to decrease. To adjust the angle: 1. Lock the motor in the fully raised position. (See "Motor Tilt Lock Lever".) 2. Turn nut 1 counterclockwise. eleven
11 Throttle Control Throttle Control The throttle control hardness can be adjusted as you wish. To increase the hardness, turn the knob A clockwise, to decrease it counterclockwise. 3. Remove the starter handle. 4. Completely remove the motor cover. Idle Speed Adjustment The idle speed is factory set to ensure stable and smooth engine idling. Part of the motor cover is used as a starter handle holder. SEA-PRO recommends that the idle adjustment is performed by an authorized dealer only. The motor cover cannot be completely removed without removing the starter handle. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Slowly lift the motor cover. 2. Tie a knot on the rope on the inside of the hood to prevent the rope from wrapping around the bobbin when the starter handle is removed. 5. Attach the starter handle holder to the end of the rope. 6. Loosen the knot on the rope. 7. Start the engine. (See Starting the Engine.) 8. Warm up the engine for 5 minutes. 12
12 9. Turn idle speed adjustment screw A clockwise to increase the speed and counterclockwise to decrease it.MOTOR FOOT LIFT CONTROL Motor Tilt Lock Lever The motor tilt lock lever is used to lock the motor in the fully raised position. 10. Stop the engine. 11. Install the motor cover by reversing steps 1-6.! NOTE If you are unable to get the idle speed within the specified range, consult your authorized SEA-PRO Dealer. Before lifting the engine, be sure to turn the fuel cock to the left and tighten the air valve on the built-in fuel tank cap to prevent fuel spills. OFF Fully raised position To secure the motor in this position, follow these steps: Never place your hands near the transom clamp bracket or under the motor, otherwise you may be injured if the motor is dropped. thirteen
13 1. Shift into neutral 2. Move the engine straight to the forward travel position to release the reverse thrust stop A. 3. Turn the fuel valve lever to the left (to the closed position) and tighten the air valve on the fuel filter cap. Never grasp the throttle control handle to raise or lower the motor. Otherwise, it may break. To lower the motor, tilt it slightly towards you, pull the tilt lock lever 1 and slowly lower the motor. Before lifting the engine, be sure to turn the fuel cock to the left and tighten the air valve on the built-in fuel tank cap to prevent fuel spills. 4. Grasp the recess in the lower motor cowl at the rear and raise the motor until it is automatically locked in the fully raised position with the motor tilt lock 1. Never grasp the throttle handle to raise or lower the motor. Otherwise, it may break. 14
14 CHECK BEFORE OPERATION To ensure your safety and the safety of your passengers, always carry out the checks below before traveling. 1. Place the motor in an upright position. 2. Check the engine oil level through the oil level sight glass 1. The oil level should be between the upper and lower level. Make sure you have enough fuel for your trip ahead. Fuel tank capacity 0.9 liter NOTE If the engine oil is dirty or discolored, replace it. (See “INSPECTION AND MAINTENANCE OF THE MOTOR / Engine oil” section.) While looking through the oil level sight glass, fill with oil to the upper level. Check the engine oil level in the crankcase. To fill with engine oil: 1. Remove the motor cover. To do this, loosen the clips 2 and 3. Operating the engine with insufficient oil can cause serious damage. To check the engine oil level: NOTE To avoid mistakes when checking the engine oil level, always perform this procedure only on a cold engine. 15
20 Gear Shifting and Speed Control Gear Shifting To shift into forward gear, place the throttle control in the idle position and firmly pull the gear lever toward you. Reverse To reverse the boat: 1. Place the throttle control in the idle position. 2.Use the control handle to rotate the motor housing in a circle and move the control handle toward you. 180 Speed control After shifting, control speed by rotating the throttle control handle. 3. Run the motor at low speed. Do not allow the engine to hit the bottom of the pond, especially when reversing. When reversing, the impact of the motor on the bottom of the reservoir is transmitted directly to the transom, which can cause damage to both the motor and the boat. Stopping the engine To stop the engine, turn the throttle control to idle, engage neutral, press and hold the stop button A until the engine stops.NOTE To test the operation of the emergency stop system, sometimes stop the engine by pulling out the emergency stop key while the engine is idling. 21
22 8. To carry the motor, use the handle located on the lower motor cover. Transporting the motor The motor can be transported vertically or horizontally. Do not leave the motor in any of the positions shown in the figure below. Otherwise, oil from the oil sump may enter the cylinder or the engine cover may be damaged. Vertical transport: Raise the control handle and secure the mounting bracket to the column using the two clamping screws. Do not lay the motor on its side until the water has completely drained from the cooling system. Water can enter the engine block through the exhaust system and cause engine malfunction. Transport horizontally: Raise the control handle and place the motor to the port side downwards with a protective pad underneath as shown in the illustration. Make sure that the lower unit is not above the power unit during transport or storage to prevent water from entering the power unit, which could damage the engine. 23
26 Leaking fuel can cause an explosion or fire and thus cause serious injury. If there are signs of leakage, cracks, or bulging in the fuel line, immediately have an authorized SEA-PRO Dealer replace the fuel line. 3. Place an oil drain container under the engine oil drain hole. 4. Unscrew the oil drain screw and remove the gasket, then drain the oil. Take all possible measures to prevent water from entering the fuel system. Engine oil Stop the engine before carrying out any work on the engine oil. Changing the engine oil Change the oil only when the engine is warm so that the oil can drain completely from the engine. To change engine oil: 1. Place the motor in an upright position and remove the motor cover. 2. Unscrew the oil filter plug. 5. After all the oil has drained off, install a new gasket and tighten the drain plug. Do not reuse gaskets. Always install only a new gasket. 6. Fill with the recommended oil to the upper level. Oil quantity: 0.4 liters 27
33 SPECIFICATIONS Engine type Characteristic F2.5 4-stroke Number of cylinders 1 Bore and piston stroke Cylinder displacement Maximum power Working range at full throttle Ignition system Reducer transmission Engine oil volume Transmission oil lubrication capacity Built-in fuel tank capacity 54.0 x 31 , 5 mm 72 cc 1.8 kW (2.5 HP) rev. min. TCI F-N (Front-Neutral) 0.4 L 75 cc (ml) 0.9 liter MODEL Serial number Date of sale Company - seller M.P. The product was received in a set, including description and documentation in Russian. I have no complaints about the appearance. Signature of the buyer. MANUFACTURER: Suzhou Powermax Power Co., LTD Shuang Qiao Industrial Zone, Xihuan Rd, Suzhou, Jiangsu Prov, China MADE IN CHINA 34
Added by (06.05.2013, 14:05)
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my motor, there must be something on it.
Drug
Felixdimm, this is to take a nozzle from a 30 strong motor, and make an adapter plate. The main thing is that the drive shaft fits along the splines, and the rest is not a problem.
valentin1981
By the way, such modifications are often done. The motor then works like a beast. Especially if you understand this.
Slut-tweet
I have sea-pro f5, as a rule, it is used as a trolling motor for three seasons of breakdowns - air leakage through the gas pump gasket, the breakdown was eliminated in 15 minutes, the cover was ground on a stone and put in place ’of the shortcomings, small power 
forces 15 would be better
drednout
The first season of Sia is about 15 hp. So far I can’t get used to starting up on cold and hot.
At the beginning of May, I did everything according to the instructions, turned the knob to the start position, extended the suction once, removed the suction, I try to start it, but it does not grab. Well, respectively, and fills the candles. Tried about 10 minutes then turned the handle to the middle position and lo and behold the engine started. A couple of times this happened, at the start it does not start, but when you add all the normal to the gas. Who faced the fact that when the handle is in the start position, the engine will not start? Or is it mine alone
Drug
drednout, so the suction must be removed when the engine starts. Pumped up, pulled out the suction (closed the damper), throttle to the Start position, start it up. It wound up, after a few seconds, you remove the suction (opened the damper), warmed up, and off you go.
gynik
drednout, For several seasons I used the engine with the factory ignition settings. On a cold start it seems normal, but on a hot one there are problems with the start-up. Today I climbed to check the ignition timing and it turned out that these same UOZs are not at all where they should be. I had to deal with the adjustments. Maybe you have the same problem?
gynik
knetl, Put the unpacked box on the scales, maybe you will see the full weight. Or look on the box - there should be a full weight written.
Drug
knetl, The motor itself, the tank, a set of tools and packaging, cardboard, polystyrene
knetl
the box says 48 kg. Cardboard box, foam inside, tank and little things. I don’t think that all this can believe 12 kg :-) What am I talking about, these motors are never more than 36 kg? Thank you
Drug
knetl, well, if it is so important to you, take it, and veil.
There were such problems associated with air suction through the gas pump, after the elimination of the suction, the problems disappeared, the cold one starts from the second or third jerk, hot from half a poke.
Still, you should know the device of the internal combustion engine and its components and assemblies, the air damper serves to enrich the mixture at cold temperatures. launch
drednout
I made myself a screw protection.
I don’t know how to insert pictures. Here is a link to another forum
Lost about 10% in speed
Valk
Hello everyone.
There is a pressing question.
I bought a boat motor Sea-pro 5hp. 4-stroke. At the first start, oil flowed from under the breather. although half the level on the dipstick was filled. turned to the sellers, they say that this is normal and that it will go away by itself and will not affect the engine.
Is this normal for this motor or is the salesman just hovering me?
Drug
Valk, turn on, let me work, the oil could get into the breather during transportation
Valk
Oil of course could get into the breather because the Chinese put the tiller up in the box. Well, it doesn't matter how much of it there may be.
For about an hour the oil continued to flow anyway. a trickle can be seen directly as it runs along the body. True, it does not drip much from the motor somewhere about a drop in 7-10 seconds.
For an hour of operation, a normal oil stain was formed and this is at idle speed, what will happen if there is a load, I'm even afraid to imagine.
I don't even know what to do, whether to return it to buy another, or everything is fine and soon it will stop and start using it.
I ask for advice from you.
proskurinke
Hello everyone! Took my motor this season, Sea-pro 15hp After running, we went to Mrassa! Has proved to be great! In speed he was not inferior even to 30 strong Evinrud on a water cannon. If anyone knows, write down about the screws, with what step to take and what weight to expect. thanks in advance.
baly
Guys, HELLO TO ALL! I have been running a Sea-Pro T 15 S engine for the third season, I have not had any problems, I am satisfied. But this season the gasket of the cylinder block burned out, I ordered the gasket for 750 rubles and put it on the water again. I wanted to ask you how the Sea-Pro T 5 S (2-stroke) motor is in operation and whose copy I want to buy for my son.
drednout
Share the information which screws for 15 two-stroke are suitable found the old which are suitable from Mercury
Added by (22.07.2013, 23:44)
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Forest of hands. 
After all these many hours of testing, the quality of the Sea Pro is beyond doubt. They are supplied to many countries in Europe, America, Asia and Africa. In our country, they are also very popular for their stylish design, low price and long service life. They almost exactly copy Yamaha motors, even Cea Pro carries out maintenance in the services of this Japanese company. These motors come to Russia through the largest Chinese exporter of water technology Suzhou PowerMax Power. Also, the advantages of these units include reliable design, maneuverability and quick start-up.
There are two types of Sea Pro motors: 2-stroke and 4-stroke. You can choose the motor from the power range from 2.5 to 40 HP. There are motors with remote control and electric start, but there are also those that are manually started and controlled with a tiller.
In our car service DDM Motors you can have your Sea Pro outboard motor repaired. We carry out absolutely all work related to its repair. Such an opportunity is given to us by high-quality equipment used in a car service, and, of course, by our qualified specialists.
Repair of outboard motors Sea Pro
DDM MOTORS AutoTechCentre employees will always provide qualified repair services for your Sea Pro engine. Our intelligent specialists will help you solve any problem quickly and efficiently. You will be satisfied with the result, you can be sure!
You can get advice on the repair of Cea Pro outboard motors, for example, Sea Pro 9.9, and troubleshooting any malfunctions, as well as on the time and operating hours of the car service, you can call:
8 (800) 500-72-19, +7 (343) 288-70-37
You can sign up for a service to repair the Cea Pro outboard motor, or conduct Sea Pro diagnostics, troubleshooting, maintenance of the Sea Pro in Yekaterinburg by filling out the form below.
owner reviews, information to help.
Aleksander (Rasheed) So, not finding anything special about SEA PRO motors in the group, I decided to create a topic about them.
Nikolay (Jaynelle) would buy a Japanese and there was nothing to write.
Aleksander (Rasheed) Nikolay, you are an obvious cap! and there are no new "Japanese" from Japan except the premium class, everything is done by the quick-eyed. In general, there is also a new Suzuki 30ka, only from the store so the flood is not in the suit.
Prosto (Nyah) my seapro 2.5 motor has been carrying a cauldron m for 2 years for long distances almost every day it works on a mixture of benzene and lukoil it starts up perfectly no complaints
Aleksander (Rasheed) Simple, and you change the oil in the gearbox and is it clean or what?
Prosto (Nyah) Aleksander, I change the oil too, Lukoil only I change the transmission oil once every 100 hours, the oil is clean
Igor (Ignace) There was a sea about 15 ATN like this is written. I ran in the norms, by the end of the season at + 3-5 degrees (I was standing at the boat base) I began to fill in candles at the factory, I immediately changed them to dry ones and started to fill up. On the next season, the turnover began to fall on the move, blew the carb a couple of times and gave pi. dy, earned. Everything was good in the gearbox for 4 seasons. At 95 benzo + Motul oil, I drove better than 92.
Nikolay (Jaynelle) I bought a sea pro 25 with a distance, at the first test it was stuck, it turned out that the membrane in the gas pump did not work, it was fixed. After 2 minutes, the buzzer sounded, the reason the temperature sensor was deeply inserted into the block, pulled out a little. 7 hours dashed off so far so good. I will change the oil in the gearbox after 10 hours.
Aleksander (Rasheed) Nikolay, fellow countrymen) where did you get the mot? In Poplovka?
Nikolay (Jaynelle) Aleksander, yes.
Aleksander (Rasheed) still has a stsuko curve tank - the gasket on the fuel level sensor had to be siliconized, because benz oozed.
Viktoria (Asketil) An authorized service center for servicing Sea-Pro outboard motors has appeared in St. Petersburg. the site can be useful to someone.
Andrey (Shayla) There was a case. as I bought it. after 5 minutes on the water, the ignition flew, then the carb turned out to be worth at least 5 forces.generally changed to Heidi. he worked 1.5 seasons for wear. I liked the motor, if the gearbox had not crumbled, all the metal was raw, now toha 30 is happy
Tags: Oil change in the gearbox of the outboard motor sea pro
Who uses outboard motors sea pro T2.5. Tell me, can I fill in machine oil? and if you can, which one? | Topic author: Larisa
Tamara Into fuel TC-W3, into reducer SAE-90
Any gasoline and oil are powered by Evinrud 55sil engines, which are in service with NATO countries, I do not think that the "Chinese" will withstand such bullying with a fuel mixture and a gearbox
Ruslan not a good joke? no, not a joke? Lei any.
Yana is poured into the gearbox with gear oil
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Video (click to play). |
Of course, I apologize, but this option does not suit me.
