DIY sea repair

In detail: do-it-yourself sea pro repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

I have already told quite a lot about low-power outboard motors such as FISHER 2.5 in detail: about disassembly, assembly, tuning, tuning, etc. But I have not yet talked about finding the reasons for outboard motors failures that can occur during fishing. But accurate diagnostics and quick search for breakdowns can significantly reduce the repair time and increase the number of fishing trips.

Of course, a faulty motor can be taken to a service and the solution of the problem can be entrusted to the masters, but the service takes a lot of money even for a banal oil change in the gearbox. And for the search and elimination of a more serious malfunction, the service will ask for a fairly substantial amount. And not everyone has the service itself. Therefore, it makes sense to try to find and fix the malfunction yourself.

This is what we will be talking about today. I will tell you how to carry out a preliminary diagnosis of a motor malfunction, how to determine what is out of order. I'll tell you how to check the engine ignition system at home.

So, let's say that while fishing, your engine stops starting. Or such a case: you are returning from fishing, suddenly the engine stalls and refuses to start. What is the reason? In which direction to focus the search for the problem?

There can be only two reasons why the engine suddenly stalls and refuses to start: it is a malfunction in the power supply system, or a malfunction in the electrical system of the motor. And to determine in which direction to search for a malfunction, an ordinary lighter can help. Or rather, not an ordinary one, but only one that, when ignited, begins to glow and flash like a police car's flasher.

Video (click to play).

The principle of operation of a lighter is as follows: inside it has a small electronic circuit that is sensitive to high voltage. When you press the lighter button, the piezoelectric element generates a high voltage pulse (10-15 kV), as a result of which a spark arises, which ignites the gas. The same impulse is caught by the circuit, it is triggered, and multi-colored LEDs start blinking. After a few seconds, the diodes go out, and the circuit goes into standby mode, until the next start. Well, since the lighter can catch high voltage pulses, then it can be used as an indicator when determining a malfunction in a boat motor.

So, the engine won't start and we need to determine what is broken in it. To do this, with one hand, we apply the lighter to the engine lining in the place where the ignition coil, high-voltage wire, or candle is located, and pull the starter cord.

Below, in the photo, on the motor are marked the places where the lighter indicator is triggered.

If, at the same time, the lighter shone like a garland of a Christmas tree, then everything is not so scary, then the switch and the ignition coil are in good order, and the problem is most likely in the fuel system. Possible reasons:

The simplest one, it ran out of fuel. Check for the presence of fuel in the tank.
Forgot to open the ventilation on the tank lid. There is a vacuum inside and no fuel flows into the carburetor. Unscrew the thumbscrew on the tank cap.
Clogged fuel filter. Remove and clean the filter.
Fuel cock clogged. Remove, clean and blow out the valve.
A foreign body has entered the fuel hose and shut off the fuel supply. Disconnect the hose from the carburetor and fuel cock and blow out with air.
The float needle blocked the fuel supply channel and remained in this position. Sometimes, lightly tapping on the carburetor can solve this problem.
The spark plug is heavily flooded. The carburetor choke is closed. Replace the spark plug, check the position of the damper.

If the lighter does not blink, then this is much worse, and if all the electrical connections are in order, the engine shutdown check is set to "work" mode, and you do not have a spare switch and ignition coil with you, then it is unlikely that you will be able to fix the malfunction on the spot ... The absence of flashing of the lighter indicates that there is no high voltage. And it may not exist for three reasons:

breakage of the terminals in the generator coil;
the CDI switch is out of order;
the ignition coil is out of order.

Thus, a lighter can significantly speed up the search for the cause of a motor malfunction. The lighter has two more useful functions, it is, of course, a backup source of fire, and a small flashlight.

This lighter is a useful addition to your motor tools. Therefore, I always have it in a case, in the spare parts for the motor.

At home, you can check the engine ignition system more thoroughly and in detail. To do this, you need to remove the right half of the cladding. You will also need a 15 - 30 volt light bulb, with short wires soldered to it. Also, an ohmmeter is desirable.

It is unlikely that the generator coil can burn out, since when the coil is shorted to ground, the motor will simply stall. Actually, according to this principle, the motor is muffled: when you press the muffle button, the coil is closed to ground. But we will adhere to the principle "anything is possible".
Only one wire comes out from under the flywheel of the motor. This is the output from the generator coil. We break it (there is a connector) and connect the wire that goes to the light bulb. We hook the second wire from the light bulb to ground.

It is advisable to measure the resistance of the coil. It should be in the range of 290 - 300 ohms. (Fisher 2.5 motor). If the resistance is much less, there is an interturn short circuit in the coil. If the resistance is infinite, it is an open circuit.

Unlike checking the generator, the lamp connected to the switch will not light up constantly, but flashes. It will flicker. This is due to the fact that the voltage is not supplied to the light bulb constantly, but only at the moment the storage capacitor is discharged. That is, only when the piston is at the top and bottom dead center.

If at the moment of jerking the starter the light does not light up, or is constantly on, as when checking the generator coil, then the switch is faulty. If the switch is working, the light will light up in flashes.

In a serviceable ignition coil, the resistance of the primary winding is 0.20 Ohm, practically equal to zero. Secondary - 2.9-3 kOhm. You can check the coil with a lighter, as mentioned above, or in the old, proven way: by unscrewing the candle, attach it with a base to the mass and pull the cord. The presence of a spark on the electrodes of the candle indicates that the coil is in good working order, if, of course, the candle itself is in good working order.

Read also: DIY original repair

It should be borne in mind that the presence of a spark on the electrodes of the candle does not mean that it is in good order. The spark may be on the twisted spark plug, and may not be present on the one installed in the motor. This is due to the fact that there are other conditions in the engine cylinder: the compression ratio, the moisture content of the fuel mixture. Therefore, it is better to replace a suspicious candle with a new one.

That, perhaps, is all. If you have any questions - ask. Boating season is coming soon and I'm ready for it!

Nestor "20 Jul 2016, 14:35

dqdmitry "20 Jul 2016, 14:50

Guest account »20 Jul 2016, 14:52

Vitaly »20 Jul 2016, 14:59

dqdmitry »20 Jul 2016, 15:07

Guest account »20 Jul 2016, 15:56

Yes. There it is littered with garbage.
When we walked along the BM, I turn my head and see that it is pouring badly, although just a couple of minutes ago the jet was very strong. He stopped, took the pin from Olga, straightened it completely and joked with the running engine in control, it poured again normally. In my case, I think there was salt, but it also happened that garbage got into it.

Although it was, as Vitalik says, it is true on a 10 year old engine. The jet disappeared. I opened it, the impeller was visually intact, changed it to a new one, everything worked.

Vitaly "20 Jul 2016, 16:44

dqdmitry »20 Jul 2016, 18:09

On what basis does he say that the motor is heating up? It's not clear yet.
If he explains, we will find out.

———- Post posted at 20:38 ———- Previous post posted at 20:15 ———-

I'm new to this forum, but I shoveled all the topics about Sia about T5 before buying. The boat was taken by Hunter 320. Before that there was a motorboat Crimea and motors vortex 25 and 30. Why did I create a new topic, because I did not find what I wanted And many topics seem to start specifically on the topic, and then flow into an argument or the topic changes smoothly. A dispute is good when facts and evidence, and not just verbal skirmishes. But closer to the topic. I went through a run-in, there were no problems. But I noticed oil at the bottom of the sump, and it is at the bottom, starting from the carburetor and the suction and ending with the drain hole under the spark plugs. Some kind of emulsion. I wiped everything, the gasket under the crankcase is visually intact, all the bolts are stretched. The next day everything happened again. While I'm sinning on the carburetor, maybe from it spits because the mixture is rich? I didn’t regulate, I think when I pour 1 to 50, then I’ll look. And so small are good, it goes smoothly, without interruption. And then I went and after an hour's drive the speed began to drop and stalled. I pulled silence. I unscrewed the candle, the spark seemed weak or it was just bad during the day. the bottom. Wives on the oars while I was spinning the candle. After about five minutes I jerked and wound up, as if not happened and drove off. After half an hour everything repeated. I did not overheat, the jet was cold. I changed the candle, I also used a built-in tank. Open the cork on the tank. I have not forgotten. What to do, where to climb? Maybe someone came across)))

———- Post posted at 20:38 ———- Previous post posted at 20:15 ———-

Often this behavior is from an electrician. Moreover, both the switch and the BB coil can be buggy. Warmed up - glitches began, cooled down - glitches disappeared. It is difficult to check what exactly it is, only by replacing it is possible.

Oil in the pan - if the engine is completely thrown back, then gasoline can flow out of the carb into the pan. Then the benz is evaporated, and the oil remains. Look, maybe from this.

Friends, please tell me. We installed a sea-pro 9.9 motor on a badger boat 3.40m long. At full throttle with a load, one I (90 kg) and a tank of gasoline, the maximum speed, measured by the navigator, is 14 km / h. Is this the way it should be, or something can be done? thanks in advance for your reply.

No, it shouldn't be. Already 30 km / h should be in any case.

specify more precisely the model of the motor.
year of release and volume of dvigla?

I drove the same badger for 3 seasons (olive).

when the loka lifts his nose, deviate a little in front of that would go to the glide)))))

sea pro T 9.9, displacement 202 cm3, purchased in 2013, ship model CL 340

nothing to measure, but the feeling as if it is not gaining momentum

yes, as soon as I did not change my position in the boat (I also have a pipe on the tiller). does not help (((. More than 14 km / hour, regardless of whether I am alone or together, does not pick up speed

but how to understand whether they are dead or not? we have two sets of candles.They changed them, no reaction ((((. Just one specialist said that the mixture is rich (like it is not gaining momentum). We will now look for the main jet)

Well the candles. they must not be dirty :) They must have the correct clearance - the instructions must be written. And so there and wires can pierce. It is necessary to watch.

Dmitry, in general, came to the unequivocal conclusion that he does not gain more than three thousand revolutions, due to the fact that the mixture is enriched. We disassembled the carburetor, hoping to find a jet with which you can adjust the injection, and of the type to make the air-fuel mixture the way it should be. All jets are non-adjustable, and in general there is no adjustment in the carburetor. we will take it to the service, we will require repair or replacement.

With this, you over here. You will be unpleasantly surprised .. Link.

Yes, this is one of those new ones. Popadalovo. Abortion from cohabitation of Chinese and Stork designers. To the store with a claim for delivery urgently!

Thanks for the disappointing news. The service center acknowledged the problem, they said that at the end of the week there would be instructions for setting up the motor. Does anyone have experience of returning motors to the store, or can someone suggest a thread on the forum?

There is no setting there, I have already come across 2 such motors. Better not suffer, return the money and turn to another brand.

Stas is right, there is nothing to regulate))) I will not be surprised if the Chinese have assembled the engine incorrectly at all. At least I have already seen the broken valve timing on a completely new four-stroke))))

Stuck with phishing:
A summary of the previous 108 pages.
- A motor bought in a store, if you just install it on a boat and give it gasoline, does not run, at least in 99 cases out of 100
- There are 2 options to remedy the situation:
Option A - return it to the store by exchanging it for another motor or for money. I must admit - this option is somewhat shameful, a demarche, so to speak, before the problem that has arisen.
option B - "bring the engine to mind with your own hands", for this all the recommendations have already been described - change the benz to the 80th, change the propeller to the high-speed one, conjure with the ignition and the carburetor, and if it does not help - grind the block by a couple of milliliters - though in as a result, we lose the guarantee, but that's it, little things.
Well, and the most extreme option, we are waiting for Stork LLC to give birth to an official version of fixing the problem, though. it is hard to believe that this will happen in the near future.

The result of my research showed that a carb and intake valves from a 169 cm3 model were stupidly introduced to the 202 cm3 engine. It will not go))). Give it back.

Well, and the windows, it seems, no one sawed.
They recommend pouring the 80th, even better than the 66th and try it on kerosene. 🙂

understandably. thanks a lot for the advice. Probably we will do so.

++++ Option B - “bring the engine to mind with your own hands”, for this, all the recommendations have already been described - change the benz to the 80th, change the propeller to a high-speed one, conjure up the ignition and the carburetor, and if it does not help, we grind the block for a couple milliliters - though in the end we lose the guarantee, but that's it, little things. +++++

stupid question - why all this? Buy a NEW motor for quite normal money for subsequent witchcraft. I understand if they sold it for 5-6 thousand, purely for the Kulibins. But I don’t understand.

Can you please tell me how to return the motor smoothly? what arguments to give, what to write, etc.?

Xi's lack of traction is a pro-factory "FAILURE!" carburetor! The Chinese proceed from the theory - Finish it yourself! You are Russian. By fine-tuning I will say Change the nozzle of the jet to a smaller one in diameter! Since the mixture at 2.3 rpm is very rich and does not want to grow poor! "LYOT" Zhekler as out of a bucket! I Reduced it by half. The speed has increased! I will experiment-REDUCE STILL. GOOD LUCK to you "Russian Kulibins"

1 OUTBOARD MOTOR SEA-PRO F2.5 Operating manual MP15 1

6 Engine Oil Transmission Oil The use of high quality four-stroke oil will significantly extend the high quality hypoid transmission life of your motor.Use only SAE 90 oil. API certified SE, SF, SG, SH and SJ oils. The viscosity index of the oil should be SAE 10W-40. If, for some reason, the use of such oil is not possible, replace it with an alternative analogue in accordance with the table below. The use of high-quality engine oil significantly affects the operation of the engine and prolongs its service life. 6

9 PROPELLER SELECTION AND INSTALLATION Propeller Selection When choosing a propeller, consider the boat characteristics and operating conditions. Remember that full throttle engine speed depends on the propeller being used. Installing a propeller with too large or, conversely, too small a pitch can cause a violation of the maximum engine speed, which can lead to serious damage to the motor. Full throttle operating range: Screw Installation When installing or removing the screw, make sure the shift knob is in neutral and the spark plug wires are disconnected to prevent accidental starting of the engine. Wear gloves to avoid cutting yourself with the propeller blades. Place a block of wood between the anti-cavitation plate and the screw to hold the screw in place. To install the propeller perform the following procedure: 1. Lubricate the propeller shaft splines 1 with a special waterproof grease to prevent corrosion rpm 2. Install the shear pin 2 on the propeller shaft. 3. Place screw 3 on the shaft. 4. Insert the cotter pin 4 and bend it so that the screw cannot come off. To remove the propeller, reverse the above procedure. 10

10 ADJUSTMENTS Adjusting the trim angle For stable handling and good efficiency, maintain the proper trim angle as shown in the illustration. The required angle depends on the characteristics of the boat, motor, propeller and operating conditions. 3. Pull out the gasket 2 and pin 3 as far as the stop on both sides of the retaining bracket. 4. Insert the pin into the desired slot. 5. Push back the spacer 2 and pin 3 and tighten the nut. Lower the motor. To lower the motor, move the pin towards the boat. To tilt the motor, move the pin away from the boat. Steering effort adjustment Steering should be smooth and not too tight. Adjust the steering firmness so that you feel a slight resistance when cornering. Turn screw A clockwise to increase steering stiffness. Counterclockwise to decrease. To adjust the angle: 1. Lock the motor in the fully raised position. (See "Motor Tilt Lock Lever".) 2. Turn nut 1 counterclockwise. eleven

11 Throttle Control Throttle Control The throttle control hardness can be adjusted as you wish. To increase the hardness, turn the knob A clockwise, to decrease it counterclockwise. 3. Remove the starter handle. 4. Completely remove the motor cover. Idle Speed Adjustment The idle speed is factory set to ensure stable and smooth engine idling. Part of the motor cover is used as a starter handle holder. SEA-PRO recommends that the idle adjustment is performed by an authorized dealer only. The motor cover cannot be completely removed without removing the starter handle. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Slowly lift the motor cover. 2. Tie a knot in the string on the inside of the hood to prevent the string from wrapping around the bobbin when the starter handle is removed. 5. Attach the starter handle holder to the end of the rope. 6. Loosen the knot on the rope. 7. Start the engine. (See Starting the Engine.) 8. Warm up the engine for 5 minutes. 12

12 9. Turn idle speed adjustment screw A clockwise to increase the speed and counterclockwise to decrease it.MOTOR FOOT LIFT CONTROL Motor Tilt Lock Lever The motor tilt lock lever is used to lock the motor in the fully raised position. 10. Stop the engine. 11. Install the motor cover by reversing steps 1-6.! NOTE If you are unable to get the idle speed within the specified range, consult your authorized SEA-PRO Dealer. Before lifting the engine, be sure to turn the fuel cock to the left and tighten the air valve on the built-in fuel tank cap to prevent fuel spills. OFF Fully raised position To secure the motor in this position, follow these steps: Never place your hands near the transom clamp bracket or under the motor, otherwise you may be injured if the motor is dropped. thirteen

13 1. Shift into neutral 2. Move the engine straight to the forward travel position to release the reverse thrust stop A. 3. Turn the fuel valve lever to the left (to the closed position) and tighten the air valve on the fuel filter cap. Never grasp the throttle control handle to raise or lower the motor. Otherwise, it may break. To lower the motor, tilt it slightly towards you, pull the tilt lock lever 1 and slowly lower the motor. Before lifting the engine, be sure to turn the fuel cock to the left and tighten the air valve on the built-in fuel tank cap to prevent fuel spills. 4. Grasp the recess in the lower motor cowl at the rear and raise the motor until it is automatically locked in the fully raised position with the motor tilt lock 1. Never grasp the throttle handle to raise or lower the motor. Otherwise, it may break. 14

14 CHECK BEFORE OPERATION To ensure your safety and the safety of your passengers, always carry out the checks below before traveling. 1. Place the motor in an upright position. 2. Check the engine oil level through the oil level sight glass 1. The oil level should be between the upper and lower level. Make sure you have enough fuel for your trip ahead. Fuel tank capacity 0.9 liter NOTE If the engine oil is dirty or discolored, replace it. (See “INSPECTION AND MAINTENANCE OF THE MOTOR / Engine oil” section.) While looking through the oil level sight glass, fill with oil to the upper level. Check the engine oil level in the crankcase. To fill with engine oil: 1. Remove the motor cover. To do this, loosen the clips 2 and 3. Operating the engine with insufficient oil can cause serious damage. To check the engine oil level: NOTE To avoid mistakes when checking the engine oil level, always perform this procedure only on a cold engine. 15

20 Gear Shifting and Speed Control Gear Shifting To shift into forward gear, place the throttle control in the idle position and firmly pull the gear lever toward you. Reverse To reverse the boat: 1. Place the throttle control in the idle position. 2.Use the control handle to rotate the motor housing in a circle and move the control handle toward you. 180 Speed control After shifting, control speed by rotating the throttle control handle. 3. Run the motor at low speed. Do not allow the engine to hit the bottom of the pond, especially when reversing. When reversing, the impact of the engine on the bottom of the reservoir is transmitted directly to the transom, which can cause damage to both the engine and the boat. Stopping the engine To stop the engine, turn the throttle control to idle, engage neutral, press and hold the stop button A until the engine stops.NOTE To test the operation of the emergency stop system, sometimes stop the engine by pulling out the emergency stop key while the engine is idling. 21

22 8. To carry the motor, use the handle located on the lower motor cover. Transporting the motor The motor can be transported vertically or horizontally. Do not leave the motor in any of the positions shown in the figure below. Otherwise, oil from the oil sump may enter the cylinder or the engine cover may be damaged. Vertical transport: Raise the control handle and secure the mounting bracket to the column using the two clamping screws. Do not lay the motor on its side until the water has completely drained from the cooling system. Water can enter the engine block through the exhaust system and cause engine malfunction. Transport horizontally: Raise the control handle and place the motor to the port side downwards with a protective pad underneath as shown in the illustration. Make sure that the lower unit is not above the power unit during transport or storage to prevent water from entering the power unit, which could damage the engine. 23

Who uses the sea pro T2.5 outboard motors. Tell me, can I fill in machine oil? and if you can, which one? | Topic author: Larisa

Tamara Into fuel TC-W3, into reducer SAE-90
Any gasoline and oil are powered by Evinrud 55sil engines, which are in service with NATO countries, I do not think that the "Chinese" will withstand such bullying with a fuel mixture and a gearbox

Ruslan not a good joke? no, not a joke? Lei any.

Yana is poured into the gearbox with gear oil

Video (click to play).

Of course, I apologize, but this option does not suit me.

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