In detail: do-it-yourself sea pro repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
I have already told quite a lot and in detail about low-power outboard motors like FISHER 2.5: about disassembly, assembly, tuning, tuning, etc. But I have not yet said anything about finding the causes of outboard motor failures that can occur during fishing. But accurate diagnostics and a quick search for a breakdown can significantly reduce repair time and increase the number of fishing trips.
Of course, a faulty motor can be taken to a service and the problem can be solved by the masters, but the service takes a lot of money even for a banal oil change in the gearbox. And for the search and elimination of a more serious malfunction, the service will request a fairly substantial amount. And not everyone has the service at hand. Therefore, it makes sense to try to find and fix the problem yourself.
This is what we will be talking about today. I will tell you how to carry out a preliminary diagnosis of a motor malfunction, how to determine what is out of order. I'll tell you how to check the engine ignition system at home.
So, let's say that while fishing, your engine stopped starting. Or such a case: you are returning from fishing, suddenly the engine stalls and refuses to start. What is the reason? In what direction to focus the search for the problem?
There can be only two reasons why the engine suddenly stalls and refuses to start: this is a malfunction in the power system, or a malfunction in the electrical system of the motor. And to determine in which direction to conduct a troubleshooting, an ordinary lighter can help. Or rather, not an ordinary one, but only one that, when ignited, begins to glow and blink, like a flasher of a police car.
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Video (click to play). |
The principle of operation of the lighter is as follows: inside it has a small electronic circuit that is sensitive to high voltage. When you press the lighter key, the piezoelectric element generates a high voltage pulse (10-15 kV), resulting in a spark that ignites the gas. The circuit catches the same impulse, it works, and multi-colored LEDs begin to flash. After a few seconds, the diodes go out, and the circuit goes into standby mode, until the next start. Well, since the lighter can pick up high voltage pulses, then it can be used as an indicator when determining a malfunction in the outboard motor.
So, the engine does not start and we need to determine what has broken in it. To do this, with one hand, we apply the lighter to the engine lining in the place where the ignition coil, high-voltage wire, or candle is located, and pull the starter cord.
Below, in the photo, on the motor, the places where the lighter indicator is triggered are marked.
If at the same time the lighter shone like a Christmas tree garland, then everything is not so scary, then the switch and the ignition coil are working, and the problem is most likely in the fuel system. Possible reasons:
- The simplest one is running out of fuel. Check for fuel in the tank.
- Forgot to open the vent on the tank lid. A vacuum has occurred inside, and fuel does not enter the carburetor. Unscrew the lamb on the stopper of the tank.
- The fuel filter is clogged. Remove and clean filter.
- The fuel valve is clogged. Remove, clean and blow out the valve with air.
- A foreign body has entered the fuel supply hose and cut off the fuel supply. Disconnect the hose from the carburetor and fuel cock and blow it out with air.
- The float needle blocked the fuel supply channel and remained in this position. Sometimes, light tapping on the carburetor can solve this problem.
- Fuel flooded the spark plug. Carburetor choke closed. Replace spark plug, check throttle position.
If the lighter did not flash, then this is much worse, and if all the electrical connections are in order, the engine shutdown check is set to “work”, and you do not have a spare switch and ignition coil with you, then it is unlikely that you will be able to fix the problem on the spot . The absence of a flashing lighter indicates that there is no high voltage. And it may not be for three reasons:
- open circuit in the generator coil;
- the CDI switch failed;
- the ignition coil has failed.
Thus, a lighter can significantly speed up the search for the cause of a motor malfunction. The lighter also has two more useful functions, this, of course, is a backup source of fire, and a small flashlight.
Such a lighter is a useful addition to motor tools. Therefore, I always have it in a case, in the motor spare parts and accessories kit.
At home, you can check the engine ignition system more carefully and in detail. To do this, remove the right half of the lining. You will also need a 15 - 30 volt light bulb, with short wires soldered to it. Also, it is desirable to have an ohmmeter.
It is unlikely that the generator coil can burn out, because when the coil is shorted to ground, the motor will simply stall. Actually, according to this principle, the engine is silenced: when you press the silence button, the coil closes to ground. But we will adhere to the principle "everything is possible".
Only one wire comes out from under the flywheel of the motor. This is the output from the generator coil. We tear it (there is a connector there) and connect the wire going to the light bulb. We hook the second wire from the light bulb to ground.
It is advisable to measure the resistance of the coil. It should be in the range of 290 - 300 ohms. (Fisher 2.5 motor). If the resistance is much less, there is an interturn circuit in the coil. If the resistance is infinite - open.
Unlike checking the generator, the light bulb connected to the switch will not light up constantly, but with flashes. She will flicker. This is due to the fact that the voltage to the light bulb is not supplied constantly, but only at the moment of discharging the storage capacitor. That is, only when the piston is at the top and bottom dead center.
If at the moment of jerking the starter the light does not light up, or it is constantly on, as when checking the generator coil, then the switch is faulty. If the switch is working, the light will flash.
In a working ignition coil, the resistance of the primary winding is 0.20 ohms, almost equal to zero. Secondary - 2.9-3 kOhm. You can check the coil with a lighter, as mentioned above, or in the old, proven way: after unscrewing the candle, apply it with its base to the mass and pull the cord. The presence of a spark on the electrodes of the candle indicates that the coil is working, unless, of course, the candle itself is working.
It should be borne in mind that the presence of a spark on the electrodes of a candle does not mean that it is working. The spark may be on the unscrewed candle, and may be absent on the one installed in the engine. This is due to the fact that there are other conditions in the engine cylinder: the degree of compression, the humidity of the fuel mixture. Therefore, it is better to replace a suspicious candle with a new one.
That, perhaps, is all. If you have questions - ask. Boating season is opening soon and I'm ready for it!
Nestor » Jul 20, 2016, 02:35 pm
dqdmitry » Jul 20, 2016, 02:50 pm
Guest account » Jul 20, 2016, 02:52 pm
Vitaly » Jul 20, 2016, 02:59 PM
dqdmitry » Jul 20, 2016, 03:07 PM
Guest account » Jul 20, 2016, 03:56 PM
Yes. It gets littered with garbage.
That's when they walked along the BM, I turn my head and see that it's pouring badly, although just a couple of minutes ago the stream was very strong. He stopped, took a pin from Olga, straightened it completely and fiddled with the running engine in the control box, it poured normally again. In my case, I think there was salt, but it happened that garbage got in.
Although it was, and as Vitalik says, though on a 10-year-old motor. The stream was gone. I opened it, the impeller was visually intact, changed it to a new one, everything worked.
Vitaly » Jul 20, 2016, 04:44 PM
dqdmitry » Jul 20, 2016, 06:09 PM
On the basis of what does he say that the motor is heating up? It's not clear yet.
If he explains, we'll find out.
———- Post added at 20:38 ———- Previous post posted at 20:15 ———-
I'm new to this forum, but I shoveled all the topics about SIA about T5 before I bought it. .And many topics seem to start specifically on the topic, and then flow into an argument or the topic changes smoothly. An argument is good when facts and evidence, and not just a verbal skirmish. But closer to the topic. oil at the bottom of the sump, and right at the bottom, starting from the carburetor and suction and ending with a drain hole under the candles. Some kind of emulsion. I wiped everything, the gasket under the crankcase is visually intact, all the bolts are stretched. The next day everything repeated. spits because the mixture is rich? I didn’t regulate it, I think when I pour 1 to 50, I’ll take a look. I unscrewed the candle, the spark seemed weak or just a bad day bottom. Wife on the oars while I was spinning the candle. Five minutes later, he pulled it and started up, as if it had never happened, and drove off. Half an hour later, everything repeated. It didn’t overheat, the jet was cold. I didn’t forget. What to do, where to climb? Can anyone come across
———- Post added at 20:38 ———- Previous post posted at 20:15 ———-
I'm new to this forum, but I shoveled all the topics about SIA about T5 before I bought it. .And many topics seem to start specifically on the topic, and then flow into an argument or the topic changes smoothly. An argument is good when facts and evidence, and not just a verbal skirmish. But closer to the topic. oil at the bottom of the sump, and right at the bottom, starting from the carburetor and suction and ending with a drain hole under the candles. Some kind of emulsion. I wiped everything, the gasket under the crankcase is visually intact, all the bolts are stretched. The next day everything repeated. spits because the mixture is rich? I didn’t regulate it, I think when I pour 1 to 50, I’ll take a look. I unscrewed the candle, the spark seemed weak or just a bad day bottom. Wife on the oars while I was spinning the candle. Five minutes later, he pulled it and started up, as if it had never happened, and drove off. Half an hour later, everything repeated. It didn’t overheat, the jet was cold. I didn’t forget. What to do, where to climb? Can anyone come across
Often such behavior from electricians. Moreover, both the switch and the BB coil can fail. Warmed up - glitches started, cooled down - glitches disappeared. It is difficult to check what exactly, only a replacement succeeds.
Oil in the sump - if the engine reclined completely, then gasoline can flow out of the carb into the sump. Then the gasoline evaporates, and the oil remains. Look, maybe this.
Friends, tell me please. We put a sea-pro 9.9 motor on a badger boat 3.40m long. At full throttle with a load of one I (90 kg) and a tank of gasoline, the maximum speed, measured on the navigator, is 14 km / h. Is this how it should be, or is there something I can do? thanks in advance for your reply.
No, it shouldn't. Already 30 km / h should be in any case.
Please specify the motor model.
year of manufacture and size of the engine?
I drove the same badger for 3 seasons (olive).
when loka lifts his nose, deviate a little in front to go on a gliss)))))
sea pro T 9.9, engine displacement 202 cm3, purchased in 2013, vessel model CL 340
there is nothing to measure, but the feeling that it is not gaining momentum
yes, as soon as I did not change my position in the boat (I also have a pipe on the tiller). does not help (((. More than 14 km / h, regardless of whether I am alone or together, does not pick up speed
How do you know if they are dead or not? we have two sets of candles.They changed them, no reaction (((. Just one specialist said that the mixture is rich (like it’s not gaining momentum). We will now look for the main jet)
Well candles. they should not be clogged :) Their clearance should be correct - it should be written in the instructions. And so there and the wires can break through. Need to watch.
Dmitry, in general, came to the unequivocal conclusion that he does not gain more than three thousand revolutions, due to the fact that the mixture is enriched. We dismantled the carburetor, hoping to find a jet that can be used to adjust the injection, and, like, make the air-fuel mixture the way it should be. All jets are non-adjustable, and in general there is no adjustment in the carburetor. We will take it to the service, we will demand repair or replacement.
With this, you are here. You will be unpleasantly surprised .. Link.
Yes, this is one of those new ones. Popadalovo. A miscarriage from the cohabitation of Chinese and Stork designers. To the store with a claim for delivery urgently!
Thanks for the bad news. The service center recognized the problem, they said that at the end of the week there would be instructions for setting up the motor. Does anyone have experience returning motors to the store, or can anyone suggest a thread on the forum?
There is no setting there, I already came across 2 such motors. Better not suffer, return the money and turn to another brand.
Stas is right, there is nothing to regulate))) I won’t be surprised if the Chinese assembled the engine incorrectly at all. At least I have already seen the downed valve timing on a completely new four-stroke engine))))
Stealed from phishing:
Summary of previous 108 pages.
- A motor bought in a store if you simply install it on a boat and give gasoline - does not go, at least in 99 cases out of 100
- There are 2 options to fix the situation:
option A - return it to the store by changing it to another motor or for money. It must be admitted that this option is somewhat shameful, a demarche, so to speak, in front of the problem that has arisen.
option B - “bring the engine to mind with your own hands”, all the recommendations have already been described for this - we change the benz to the 80th, change the screw to high-speed, we conjure with the ignition and the carburetor, and if it doesn’t help, we grind the block a couple of milliliters - though As a result, we lose the guarantee, but at the same time, the little things.
Well, the most extreme option, we are waiting for Stork LLC to give birth to the official version of fixing the problem, though. it is hard to believe that this will happen in the near future.
The result of my research showed that the carb and intake valves from the 169 cm3 model were stupidly introduced into the 202 cm3 engine. It will not go))). Take it back.
Well, it looks like no one sawed the windows.
It is recommended to pour the 80th, even better the 66th and try it on kerosene. 🙂
understandably. thanks a lot for the advice. We'll probably do that.
++++ option B - “bring the engine to mind with your own hands”, for this all the recommendations have already been described - we change the benz to the 80th, change the screw to high-speed, we conjure with ignition and carburetor, and if it doesn’t help, we grind the block for a couple milliliters - though in the end we lose the guarantee, but that's it, little things. +++++
stupid question - why all this? Buy a NEW motor for quite normal money for subsequent witchcraft. I understand if it was sold for 5-6 thousand, purely for the Kulibins. And so - I do not understand.
Can you please tell me how to return the motor? what arguments to give, what to write, etc.?
C’s lack of traction is a factory “FAIL!” carburetor! The Chinese proceed from the theory - Finish it yourself! You are Russian. By fine-tuning to mind I will say We change the jet nozzle to a smaller diameter! Since the mixture is very rich at 2.3 revolutions and does not want to get poorer! "POOLING" Jeclair as if from a bucket! I cut it in half. Increased speed! I will experiment - MORE DECREASE. GOOD LUCK to you “Russian Kulibins”
1 OUTBOARD MOTOR SEA-PRO F2.5 Operating manual MP15 1
6 Engine Oil Gear Oil Using a high quality four-stroke oil will greatly extend the life of your engine with a high quality hypoid gear oil.Use only SAE 90 oil. API certified SE, SF, SG, SH, and SJ oils. The viscosity index of the oil must be SAE 10W-40. If, for any reason, the use of such an oil is not possible, replace it with an alternative equivalent in accordance with the table below. The use of high-quality engine oil significantly affects the operation of the engine and prolongs its service life.. 6
9 PROPELLER SELECTION AND INSTALLATION Propeller Selection When choosing a propeller, consider the characteristics of the boat and the operating conditions. Note that the engine speed at full throttle will depend on the propeller being used. Installing a propeller with too large or, conversely, with too small a pitch, can cause violations of the maximum speed of the engine, which can lead to serious damage to the motor. Full Throttle Operating Range: Installing the Propeller When installing or removing the propeller, make sure the shift knob is in neutral and the spark plug wires are disconnected to prevent accidental starting of the engine. Wear gloves to avoid injury from propeller blades. Place a block of wood between the anti-cavitation plate and the screw to hold the screw in place. Follow the procedure below to install the propeller: 1. Lubricate the propeller shaft splines 1 with special waterproof grease to prevent corrosion rpm 2. Install the shear pin 2 on the propeller shaft. 3. Put screw 3 on the shaft. 4. Insert cotter pin 4 and bend it so that the screw cannot come off. To remove the propeller, reverse the above procedure. 10
10 ADJUSTMENTS Adjusting the trim angle To ensure stable control and good performance, maintain the proper trim angle as shown in the figure. The required angle depends on the characteristics of the boat, motor, propeller and operating conditions. 3. Pull out the gasket 2 and the pin 3 as far as it will go on both sides of the clamping bracket. 4. Insert the pin into the desired socket. 5. Push gasket 2 and pin 3 in place and tighten the nut. Lower the motor. To lower the motor, move the pin towards the boat. To raise the motor, move the pin away from the boat. Steering force adjustment Steering should be smooth and not too tight. Adjust the steering stiffness so that you feel a slight resistance when turning. To increase steering stiffness, turn screw A clockwise. To decrease counterclockwise. To adjust the angle: 1. Lock the motor in the fully raised position. (See "Motor Tilt Lock Lever" section.) 2. Turn nut 1 counterclockwise. eleven
11 Throttle control force adjustment Throttle control force can be adjusted as desired. To increase the hardness, turn knob A clockwise to decrease it counterclockwise. 3. Remove the starter handle. 4. Completely remove the motor cover. Idle Speed Adjustment The idle speed is set at the factory to ensure stable and smooth engine idling. Part of the motor cover is used as a holder for the starter handle. SEA-PRO recommends that idle speed adjustment be performed by an authorized dealer only. The motor cover cannot be completely removed without removing the starter handle. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Slowly lift the motor cover. 2. Tie a knot in the rope on the inside of the hood to prevent the rope from wrapping around the bobbin when the starter handle is removed. 5. Attach the starter handle holder to the end of the rope. 6. Loosen the knot on the rope. 7. Start the engine. (See Starting the Engine.) 8. Warm up the engine for 5 minutes. 12
12 9. Turn the idle speed screw A clockwise to increase the speed and counterclockwise to decrease it.MOTOR LEG LIFT CONTROL Motor tilt lock lever The motor tilt lock lever is used to lock the motor in the fully raised position. 10. Stop the engine. 11. Install the engine cover by following steps 1-6 in reverse order! NOTE If you cannot get the idle speed within the specified range, consult an authorized SEA-PRO Dealer. Before lifting the engine, be sure to turn the fuel cock to the left and tighten the bleed valve on the integral fuel tank cap to prevent fuel from spilling. OFF Fully Raised Position To secure the motor in this position, do the following: Never place your hands near the transom mount clamp or under the motor, otherwise you may be injured if you drop the motor. thirteen
13 1. Shift into neutral 2. Move the engine straight to the forward position to release the reverse thrust stop A. 3. Turn the fuel cock lever to the left (to the closed position) and tighten the air valve on the fuel filter cap. Never grasp the throttle control to raise or lower the engine. Otherwise, it may break. To lower the motor, tilt it slightly towards you, pull the tilt lock lever 1, and slowly lower the motor. Before lifting the engine, be sure to turn the fuel cock to the left and tighten the bleed valve on the integral fuel tank cap to prevent fuel from spilling. 4. Grasp the recess on the rear lower cowl of the motor and lift the motor until it is automatically locked in the fully raised position by the tilt lock 1. Never grasp the throttle control to raise or lower the motor. Otherwise, it may break. 14
14 CHECK BEFORE OPERATION To ensure your safety and the safety of your passengers, always perform the following check before riding. 1. Place the motor in a vertical position. 2. Through the oil sight glass 1, check the engine oil level. The oil level must be between the upper and lower levels. Make sure you have enough fuel available for your upcoming trip. Fuel tank capacity 0.9 liter NOTE If the engine oil is dirty or discolored, change it. (See ENGINE INSPECTION AND MAINTENANCE/Engine Oil.) Looking through the sight glass to check the oil level, add oil to the top level. Check the engine oil level in the crankcase. To add engine oil: 1. Remove the engine cover. To do this, loosen holders 2 and 3. Running the engine with insufficient oil can cause serious damage. To check the engine oil level: NOTE To avoid errors when checking the engine oil level, always perform this procedure with the engine cold. 15
20 Shifting and Speed Control Shifting To shift into forward gear, place the throttle control in the idle position and pull the shift lever firmly toward you with firm force. Reverse To move the boat in reverse: 1. Set the throttle control to the idle position. 2. Use the control handle to turn the motor housing around and move the control handle towards you. 180 Speed control After changing gear, control speed by turning the throttle control. 3. Run the motor at low speed. Do not allow the motor to hit the bottom of the pond, especially when reversing. When reversing, the impact of the motor on the bottom of the reservoir is transmitted directly to the transom, which can cause damage to both the motor and the boat. Stopping the engine To stop the engine, turn the throttle control to idle, shift into neutral, and press and hold stop button A until the engine stops.NOTE To check the operation of the emergency stop system, occasionally stop the engine by pulling out the emergency stop key while the engine is idling. 21
22 8. To carry the motor, use the handle located on the lower motor cover. Transporting the Motor The motor can be transported in a vertical or horizontal position. Do not leave the motor in any of the positions shown in the figure below. Otherwise, oil from the oil sump may enter the cylinder or the motor housing may be damaged. Vertical transport: Raise the control handle and secure the mounting bracket to the stand with two tightening screws. Do not lay the motor on its side until the water from the cooling system has completely drained. Water can enter through the exhaust system into the cylinder block, causing the engine to malfunction. Horizontal transport: Raise the control handle and lay the motor left side down with a protective pad under it, as shown in the figure. During transport or storage, make sure that the lower unit is not higher than the power unit to prevent water from entering the power unit, which could damage the motor. 23
26 Leaking fuel can cause an explosion or fire, resulting in serious injury. If there are signs of leakage, cracks, or swelling in the fuel line, contact an authorized SEA-PRO Dealer immediately to replace the fuel line. 3. Place an oil drain pan under the engine oil drain hole. 4. Unscrew the oil drain screw and remove the gasket, then drain the oil. Take all possible measures to prevent water from entering the fuel system. Engine oil Stop the engine before doing any work on the engine oil. Changing the engine oil Change the oil only when the engine is warm so that the oil can drain completely from the engine. To change the engine oil: 1. Place the engine in an upright position and remove the engine cover. 2. Unscrew the oil filter plug. 5. After all the oil has drained, install a new gasket and tighten the drain screw. Do not reuse pads. Always install only a new gasket. 6. Fill with recommended oil up to the top level. Oil quantity: 0.4 liters 27
33 SPECIFICATIONS Engine type Specification F2.5 4-stroke Number of cylinders 1 Bore and stroke Displacement Maximum power Full throttle operating range Ignition system Gearboxes Engine oil capacity Transmission oil capacity lubrication Built-in fuel tank capacity 54.0 x 31 .5 mm 72 cm cu. 1.8 kW (2.5 hp) rev. min. TCI F-N (Front-Neutral) 0.4 L 75 cc (ml) 0.9 liter MODEL Serial number Date of sale Dealer M.P The product is received as a set, including description and documentation in Russian. I have no claims to the appearance Signature of the buyer. MANUFACTURER: Suzhou Powermax Power Co., LTD Shuang Qiao Industrial Zone, Xihuan Rd, Suzhou, Jiangsu Prov, China MADE IN CHINA 34
Added (06.05.2013, 14:05)
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my motor, there must be something on it.
drug
Felixdimm, this is to take a nozzle from a 30-horsepower motor, and make an adapter plate. The main thing is that the drive shaft fits along the splines, and the rest is not a problem.
valentin1981
By the way, such improvements are often made. The motor then works like a beast. Especially if you understand it.
Slavchik-chirik
I have a sea-pro f5, which is usually used as a trolling motor for three seasons of breakdowns - air leaks along the gasket of the fuel pump, the breakdown was fixed in 15 minutes, the cover was lapped on a stone and put in place 'from the shortcomings, low power 
15 strength would be better
dreadnought
The first season of sia pro 15 hp So far I can't get used to starting it cold and hot.
At the beginning of May, I did everything according to the instructions, turned the handle to the start position, stretched the choke once, removed the choke, I try to start it, but it does not seize.Well, respectively, and fills the candles. I tried for about 10 minutes. Then I turned the knob to the middle position and, lo and behold, the motor started up. It happened a couple of times, it won’t start at the start, but when you add gas, everything is normal. Has anyone else experienced that when the throttle is in the start position, the engine won't start? Or is it just me
drug
dreadnought, so the choke must be removed when the engine starts. Pumped up, pulled out the choke (closed the damper), put the throttle in the Start position, start it up. It started up, after a few seconds, you remove the suction (opened the damper), warmed it up, and hit the road.
gynik
dreadnought, I used the engine with factory ignition settings for several seasons. When cold, it starts up fine, but when hot it starts with problems. Today I climbed in to check the ignition timing and it turned out that these very UOZs were not at all where they should be. I had to figure out the settings. Maybe you have the same problems?
gynik
knetl, Put the unpacked box on the scale, maybe you will see the total weight. Or look on the box - there should be a full weight written.
drug
knetl, The motor itself, tank, tool kit and packaging, cardboard, foam
knetl
The box says 48 kg. Cardboard box, foam inside, tank and small things. I don’t think that all this can be believed by 12 kg :-) what am I talking about, these motors are not more than 36 kg? Thank you
drug
knetlWell, if it's so important to you, take it and hang it.
There were such problems associated with air leakage through the fuel pump, after the suction was eliminated, the problems disappeared, the cold one starts from the second or 3rd jerk, the hot one from half a poke.
Still, you should know the design of the internal combustion engine and its components and assemblies, the air damper serves to enrich the mixture when cold. startup
dreadnought
I made myself a screw protection.
I don't know how to insert pictures. Here is a link to another forum
Lost about 10% in speed
Valk
Hello everyone.
There is an urgent question.
I bought a Sea-pro 5hp outboard motor. 4 stroke. Oil leaked from under the breather on first start. even though it was half full on the dipstick. I turned to the sellers, they say that this is normal and that it will pass by itself and will not affect the engine.
Is this normal for this motor or is the seller just bugging me?
drug
Valk, start it, let it work, oil could get into the breather during transportation
Valk
Oil, of course, could get into the breather because the Chinese put the tiller up in the box. Well, it doesn't matter how much there might be.
It ran for about an hour and the oil still continued to flow. You can see the trickle right as it runs along the hull. True, it doesn’t drip much from the motor, somewhere around a drop in 7-10 seconds.
For an hour of work, a normal oil stain formed and this is at idle, what will happen if there is a load, I’m even afraid to imagine.
I don’t even know what to do, whether to return it to buy another one, or everything is fine and soon it will stop and start using it.
I ask you for advice.
proskurinke
Hello everyone! I took my motor this season, Sea-pro 15hp. After the run-in, we went to Marsa! Showed himself great! In speed, he was not inferior even to the 30 strong Evinrude on a water cannon. If anyone knows, write about the screws, with what step to take and what weight to count on. thanks in advance.
baly
Guys ALL HELLO! I go under the Sea-Pro T 15 S motor for the third season, there were no problems, I'm happy. But this season the cylinder block gasket burned out, I ordered a gasket for the price of 750 rubles, I installed it myself and put it back on the water. I wanted to ask you how the Sea-Pro T 5 S motor (2-stroke) is in operation and whose copy I want to buy for my son.
dreadnought
Share information which screws are suitable for 15 two-stroke found info what is suitable from Mercury
Added (22.07.2013, 23:44)
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Forest of hands. 
After all these many hours of testing, the quality of the Sea Pro motors cannot be in doubt. They are supplied to many countries in Europe, America, Asia and Africa. In our country, they are also very popular for their stylish design, low price and long service life. They almost exactly copy Yamaha motors, even Sea Pro carries out maintenance in the services of this Japanese company. These motors are delivered to Russia through the largest Chinese exporter of water equipment Suzhou PowerMax Power. Also, the advantages of these units include a reliable design, maneuverability and quick start.
Sea Pro motors are available in two types: 2-stroke and 4-stroke. You can choose a motor among the power range from 2.5 to 40 hp. There are engines with remote control and electric start, but there are also those that are manually started and controlled with a tiller.
In our DDM Motors car service you can repair your Sea Pro outboard motor. We carry out absolutely all work related to its repair. This opportunity is given to us by high-quality equipment used in car service, and, of course, by our qualified specialists.
Boat Motor Repair Sea Pro
Employees of the DDM MOTORS AutoTechCenter (DDM Motors) will always provide qualified services for the repair of your Sea Pro motor. Our intelligent specialists will help you solve any problem quickly and efficiently. You will be satisfied with the result, you can rest assured!
You can get advice on the repair of Sea Pro outboard motors, for example Sea Pro 9.9, and troubleshooting, as well as on the time and mode of operation of the car service, by phone:
8 (800) 500-72-19, +7 (343) 288-70-37
You can sign up for a service for repairing a Sea Pro outboard motor, or for diagnosing Sea Pro, troubleshooting, servicing Sia Pro in Yekaterinburg by filling out the form below.
owner reviews, information to help.
Aleksander (Rasheed) So, having found nothing in the group about SEA PRO motors, I decided to create a topic about them.
Nikolay (Jaynelle) would have bought a Japanese and there was nothing to write.
Aleksander (Rasheed) Nikolay, you are a cap of evidence! and there are no new “Japanese” from Japan, except for the premium class, everything is done by squints. In general, there is also a new Suzuki 30ka, only from the store, so the flood is not in suit.
Prosto (Nyah) I have a seapro 2.5 engine that has been carrying a cauldron m for 2 years for long distances almost every day it runs on a mixture of benz and lukoil it starts up perfectly no complaints
Aleksander (Rasheed) It's simple, and you change the oil in the gearbox and is it clean or what?
Prosto (Nyah) Aleksander, I also change the oil Lukoil only transmission oil I change every 100 hours the oil is clean
Igor (Ignace) There was a sea about 15 ATH, it seems to be written like that. I ran in the norms, by the end of the season at + 3-5 degrees (I was standing on a boat base) I began to fill in candles at the factory, I immediately changed them to dry ones and got bogged down. The next season on the move began to fall momentum, blew the carb a couple of times gave pi. yes, it worked. In the gearbox, everything was fine for 4 seasons. At 95 benz + Motul oil, I drove better than at 92.
Nikolay (Jaynelle) I bought a sea pro 25 with a distance, at the first test it was deaf, it turned out that the membrane in the fuel pump did not work, they fixed it. After 2 minutes, the buzzer squeaked, the reason is that the temperature sensor is deeply inserted into the block, pulled out a bit. 7 hours dashed so far so good. After 10 hours I will change the oil in the gearbox.
Aleksander (Rasheed) Nikolai, countrymen) where did you get the mot? In Poplovka?
Nikolay (Jaynelle) Aleksander, yes.
Aleksander (Rasheed) another tank of a stsuko curve - the gasket on the fuel level sensor had to be siliconized because benz was oozing.
Viktoria (Asketil) An authorized service center for Sea-Pro outboard motors has appeared in St. Petersburg. the site may be useful.
Andrey (Shayla) It was the case. how did you buy it. after 5 minutes on the water, the ignition flew, then it turned out that the carb was worth 5 forces. generally changed to Heidi. he worked 1.5 seasons for wear and tear. I liked the motor, if the gearbox had not crumbled, the whole metal was raw, now Tokha 30 is happy
Tags: Sea pro outboard motor gearbox oil change
Who uses sea pro T2.5 outboard motors. Tell me, can I fill in engine oil? and if so, which one? | Topic Author: Larisa
Tamara V TC-W3 fuel, SAE-90 reducer
Evinrude 55sil engines, which are in service with NATO countries, run on any gasoline and oil, I don’t think that the “Chinese” will withstand such bullying with the fuel mixture and gearbox
Ruslan is not a good joke? no, not a joke? lei any.
Yana is pouring transmission oil into the gearbox
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Video (click to play). |
Of course, I'm sorry, but this option does not suit me.
