Do-it-yourself repair seaz 11116 In detail: do-it-yourself seaz 11116 repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com. Registered: 22.10.2008Posts: 8 Registered: 07/10/2007Posts: 321From: Veliky Novgorod, SeAZ-11116, euro-2 Registered: 09/05/2008Posts: 223From: Orenburg, SeAZ-11116 (Euro-3) Registered: 06/28/2008Posts: 163From: South of Russia here is what is on the list there (and lay, and is lying on my screw): Spare parts catalog version 1 1.24MB 07.12.2007 TJ engine and gearbox manual 1,93MB 07.12.2007 Wiring diagram SEAZ 11116 1,23MB 25.10.2007 scheme E3-2110.jpg 1,13MB 06.12.2007 Scheme ECM 251,KB 25.10.2007 those. “Repair manuals” are still there, it seems there weren’t yet? (otherwise I was a little surprised - like, there already is, but I don’t know?) Which of the following do you need to put on rapidshare? or all? I'm not lazy. Registered: 05/26/2007Posts: 5 Registered: 05/26/2007Posts: 5 kitty Okavod of the Year 2008 Registered: 29.09.2006Messages: 1216Origin: Peter Rzhevka Registered: 05/26/2007Posts: 5 Registered: 05/26/2007Posts: 5 kitty Okavod of the Year 2008 Registered: 29.09.2006Messages: 1216Origin: Peter Rzhevka Fray Lives on the forum Registered: 04/21/2007Posts: 529From: Petersburg, Primorsky district kitty Okavod of the Year 2008 Registered: 29.09.2006Messages: 1216Origin: Peter Rzhevka OKA E3 015.jpg202.04K 79 Number of downloads: OKA E3 024.jpg110.91K 91 Number of downloads: OKA E3 012.jpg196.25K 74 Number of downloads: So I don't remember what it was. Power on the device went, and began to checkcontrol was gone. Powered with new wires. Video (click to play). I checked everything from the beginning with the device, then with a control with a light bulb (not with a diode) no. very similar to vaz bosch m 1.5.4 This is from OKI (the last one before the death of SeAZ). This is when they were already going to E3, and the previous ones were E2. If you search the forum, I wrote a whole article about them there, it was true for a long time, in 2007. Like I do not like demarc Nov 14, 2012 Like I do not like mihail2008 Jan 15, 2014 Scandoc and VagCom definitely take it, I don’t know the scanmatic. And how to diagnose such an eye? It is not taken like an ordinary Bosch, scanmatic2 does not see it. I don't know the second.The first one sees. Like I do not like mihail2008 Jan 15, 2014 Like I do not like mihail2008 Jan 16, 2014 people have recently begun to buy eyeglasses Are they still being produced? I thought this brand had sunk into oblivion. Like I do not like mihail2008 Jan 16, 2014 Like I do not like 16 Jan 2014 And how to diagnose such an eye? It is not taken like an ordinary Bosch, scanmatic2 does not see it. Last week, I bought SEAZ 11116 from OKA-Auto. Color - metallic green. Before that, four years ago there was KAMAZ OKA. When buying a car, I proceeded from several considerations: - The amount of about 160 thousand rubles was available. – Need a car for the wife to cope with the management and dimensions - You need to drive to the house, where the road is a broken clay rut, or a snowdrift - Desirable maximum budget savings - You can put your mother-in-law, wife and three children in special. armchairs On all counts, except for one, OKA and the Land Cruiser came up. OKA did not fit the seats, the jeep did not fit the price. I had to give up my seat. Although, I remember I went to Kostroma and drove in a car: I (height 180, weight 75), wife (height 180, weight 60), Vik (height 170, weight 55), Kostroma (height GOGOGO, weight corresponds), brother of the wife (height 180 , weight 100). You should have seen the eyes of the supermarket visitors when we got out of it)))). Operations on a message: Passenger cars of an especially small class VAZ-1111 are equipped with a 12-volt electrician with a negative terminal connected to the car body. The cars were equipped with carburetor and injection power units, which had little effect on the location and purpose of the chains. The VAZ-1111 wiring diagram, basic for all versions of the Oka, can be used when repairing a car of any assembly year. The vehicle electrical system includes the following components: non-contact type ignition system; ignition lock with contact group and auxiliary relays; alternator with built-in control unit; an electric DC motor used to start the power unit; external lighting and alarm system, together with wiring and controls; a sound signal warning other road users; front and rear window cleaners and washers; electric heating of the glass surface on the tailgate; control of the air supply system through the heater; a combination of devices with control indicator lamps; a fuse box that protects circuits from being driven with excessive current (caused by a short circuit or component failure). The sources of voltage for electrical work are: The battery is located in the engine compartment. The device is used to start the power unit and provide consumers with electricity when the engine is not running. A generator driven by the crankshaft of the engine. The product is designed to replenish the battery charge and ensures the operation of electricians while the car is moving. The list of elements indicated in the diagram: The specified colors of the connecting wires correspond to the factory documentation. Many owners during repairs replace sections of the bundles with cables with insulation of any color. Because of this, on some vehicles, it is difficult to identify the wiring. The electrical circuit of the VAZ-11113 does not differ significantly from the VAZ-1111. The car was equipped with an upgraded version of the power unit and some components that have virtually no effect on the electrics. Contactless ignition VAZ-11113 1 - control relay; 2 - ignition lock with a contact group; 3 - protective fuse; 4 - controller; 5 - a sensor that determines the moment of spark supply; 6 - common ignition coil; 7 - candles. On SeAZ-11116 cars with a europanel and a Chinese 3-cylinder engine, the electrics have undergone changes. The machines use an electronic instrument cluster, which has led to the emergence of a number of new sensors. The fuel supply system has changed, into which a fuel pump with a control relay has been introduced. Big innovations appeared in the engine compartment, where the fuel injection and ignition control system began to be installed. At the same time, the main part of the wiring, the fuse box and the relay passed unchanged from the old carburetor version. The diagram shows the following electrical components: Fast, high quality, inexpensive computer diagnostics, injector tuning, chip tuning, HBO installation. Schematic electrical circuits of the ECM. (.rar 0.8Mb) download Instructions for use and maintenance. (pdf 1.7Mb) download Operation and repair manual VAZ 1111-11113 (rar.25,3Mb) download [ Registration is required to view links. Register. ] [ Registration is required to view links. Register. ] [ Registration is required to view links. Register. ] [ Registration is required to view links. Register. ] SeAZ-11116 differs from the well-known VAZ-11113 model by a new power unit. Under the hood of the baby is a 3-cylinder engine manufactured by the Chinese corporation FAW (TJ 376 QE) paired with a 5-speed manual transmission. It complies with Euro 2 environmental standards, and if desired, by replacing the control unit with an appropriate one, it is possible to achieve compliance with Euro 3 standards. The resource of OKA - 11116 with a Chinese engine, in comparison with OKA - 11113, increased by 2 times and amounted to 200,000 km. COMMON DATA Old model name VAZ-11116 Body type hatchback Number of doors / seats 3/4 Curb weight, kg 660 Engine displacement, l 0.993 Engine power, h.p. 53 Torque, Nm at rpm 77 Maximum speed, km/h 150 Acceleration time to 100 km/h, s 18 FUEL CONSUMPTION Fuel consumption per 100 km at 90 km/h, l 4.5 Fuel consumption per 100 km, city cycle, l 6.2 Prices for OKA SeAZ-11116 from 137,400 to 142,550 rubles - depending on the configuration Material taken [ Registration is required to view links. Register. ] Who is interested in a detailed report of the okovod [ Registration is required to view links. Register. ] And here is a new vidon for the MADE STOOL made: [ Registration is required to view links. Register. ] [ Registration is required to view links. Register. ] [ Registration is required to view links. Register. ] [ Registration is required to view links. Register. ] [ Registration is required to view links. Register. ] [ Registration is required to view links. Register. ] [ Registration is required to view links. Register. ] Judging by the photo, they even put it at 13 radius [ Registration is required to view links. Register. ] [ Registration is required to view links. Register. ] [ Registration is required to view links. Register. ] Yes, there is also an engine, judging by the pipe, 21081 (1.1l) was shoved The body, except for the door handle, is very pretty, and the interior is just shameful. Somehow everything is empty and tasteless But there is also such an option [ Registration is required to view links. Register. ] At the Interauto show in Moscow (it will be held from August 29 to September 4), the Serpukhov Automobile Plant will present a luxury modification of the Oka, which will go into serial production, the Avtocentre edition reports. The most luxurious "Oka" will have radio training, heated seats, new upholstery, different front seats and even ... air conditioning. How much such an "Oka" will cost is not yet known. Recall that in 2008 SeAZ promises to start production of a seriously upgraded Oka. The restyled car is being developed by the Anglo-Belgian company Multipass Business Ltd, which is supposed to create a new look for the Russian minicar. In addition, SeAZ engineers promise to seriously work on fine-tuning the suspension, steering, and brakes (under the hood of the updated Oka there will be a 1.0-liter Chinese engine with a capacity of 53 hp). Simultaneously with the deep restyling of the Oka, SeAZ will expand its production capacity to 50,000 vehicles, and in the future, up to 100,000 vehicles per year. I, as a former owner of the Oki, will say this. when I saved up for a VAZ 2105, a crisis broke out and the loot began to melt. There was enough current for the eye; then it cost 1300 USD. I had to take it because Zhiguli moved away for at least 3 years. I am generally a good auto mechanic and have always repaired myself right up to the engine overhaul. But what brought me eye was not with one car. It's just a mega nightmare. not only that, when I got to the garage, the antifreeze boiled for me for 34 thousand runs, I changed 3 high-pressure coils. 2 starter, changed shruzy 1 time and 4 times their anthers. The box broke 1 time (2 didn’t cut it) and the little things can’t be counted at all. And if, after the first breakdown, I hadn’t spent three days on a bulkhead of the car and hadn’t re-tightened the head correctly with a dynamo key, then it’s not known that it was also with a dviglom. in general, I completed it for six months and then a year more or less went. But there is still a problem, I am ready to buy expensive pads so that the pads do not fall off in the cold! I'm too lazy to rivet the lining myself. But no ferado for example does not make this size. and so on many points. And right now, the eye costs 3500-4100 bucks, but I’d rather buy a miserable classic there, at least there’s more space DIAMAG USB Oscilloscope User Forum vlad73 » 05 Apr 2016, 06:52 valeron » 05 Apr 2016, 16:03 liros » 05 Apr 2016, 17:39 kikozik » 05 Apr 2016, 17:54 kikozik » 05 Apr 2016, 17:59 kikozik » 05 Apr 2016, 18:03 valeron » Apr 06, 2016, 00:18 vlad73 » Apr 06, 2016, 03:21 Serg57i » Apr 06, 2016, 04:10 vlad73 » Apr 07, 2016, 04:53 3-door, 4-seater hatchback of a very small class with a transverse engine and front-wheel drive. The release of the Oka began in 1989 at the Volga Automobile Plant.The engine is a two-cylinder working volume of 650 cc, in 1997 it was increased to 750 cc. volume. At present, the production of Oka cars has been transferred to the Kama Automobile Plant, as well as the Serpukhov Automobile Plant. In addition to the basic models KamAZ-11113 and SeAZ-11113, manual options are offered for the disabled. Due to its very low price, it is of interest for export. This small car was developed at the Volga Automobile Plant for “corporate” production at three plants - VAZ, KamAZ and SeAZ (in a disabled version). It has been produced at the Volga Automobile since 1990. Distinctive features are modest overall dimensions, front-wheel drive, a two-cylinder engine with a working volume of 650 cubic centimeters (“half” of the “eight” engine), a universal three-door body with a folding rear seat. Later, modification 11113 appeared with a more powerful 0.75 liter engine. In addition, an electric car was developed on the basis of the Oka, which is assembled piece by piece in the Pilot Industrial Production. A few years ago, the production of Oka was discontinued at the Volga Automobile Plant, now only KamAZ and SeAZ produce it, although only VAZ still produces power units (only 0.75 liters). Now "Oka" produces only SeAZ. By the end of 2007, they plan to assemble 20 thousand cars of a new modification - with a Chinese engine. Engine: gasoline, 0.993 l (53 hp). Transmission: 5-speed manual. Price: 132–150 thousand rubles. ($5000–5700). “Oka” was once built by the whole world: VAZ made power units, KamAZ made bodies, and SeAZ made controls for disabled versions. Almost from the very birth of the car, the developers did not abandon attempts to replace the two-cylinder engine with a volume of 650, and later 750 "cubes" with some other - more powerful, and so that it would not chirp like a post-war "invalid". Among the applicants were the original three-cylinder engine created by VAZ (it never went into production), the smallest of the "eight" family - VAZ-21081 (1100 smz) and even a motor from Tavria. But the three-cylinder import won the tender. With the new engine, the Oka has become truly international. Between SeAZ and the Chinese "Tian Jin" (Tian Jin FAW) signed a contract for the supply of power units. This is a three-cylinder injection engine with a working volume of 0.993 liters (Euro II) with a five-speed gearbox. Once upon a time, the Japanese put this engine on Toyota. Since March, "Oka" with a "Chinese" under the hood (index SeAZ-11116) has replaced the two-cylinder predecessor SeAZ-11113 on the conveyor. The contract provides for the delivery of 20,000 power units in 2007. The new motor easily fit under the hood of the baby, but left no room for a spare wheel. However, the Oka manufacturers decided to “rearrange” it on 13-inch wheels, and such a spare wheel did not fit under the hood with the same engine. She had to move into the trunk, reducing the already modest volume of the compartment. In addition to the three-cylinder engine, the car received new lighting equipment ("Hella"), bumpers and radiator lining, painted in body color, and even athermal glass. An innovation in the cabin is a dashboard with a combination based on the "tenth". In the new instrument panel, as before, instead of a closed "glove box" - an open shelf. In the center of the panel there is a clock, and along the edges there are side window deflectors stylized as speaker grilles. Above - four slots for blowing the windshield. By the way, they work very efficiently - the glass dries evenly and quickly. All buttons and keys, of course, are from VAZ models. The instrument cluster "Lada-110" was built into the panel not entirely successfully - the control lamp for outdoor lighting is blocked by the instrument panel overlay. The “check engine” lamp on the left side of the panel is decorative. Working - the one that is built into the combination. The upholstery of doors and seats is now made of noble fabric. Everything is fine, beautiful, but there are no pockets on the doors.The seats are very comfortable, the tilt of the backs is regulated by rotating handles, but it is not very convenient to recline the back of the driver's seat - the lever blocking it is located very close to the threshold. The exterior mirrors are small by today's standards. The car turned out to be very dynamic and, which I especially liked, became less sensitive to loading: at least one person in the cabin, at least four, it accelerates equally easily. Fifth gear, judging by the driving sensations, is economical. It is advisable to turn it on after 100 km / h. The engine in motion is much more pleasant than the “native” one, it does not emit the characteristic “okovskogo” snort. The clutch pedal is weightless, just right to put a spring under it to feel better. Gear shifting is very pleasant - short lever strokes, clear and error-free engagements. A number of gear ratios is also good - apparently, our "Oka" turned out to be very close to the car for which this gearbox was created. Hit - one hundred percent! I stop at a traffic light, the engine is at idle, and then the car. starts to tremble. Serpukhovians explain this shortcoming with the "old" supports of the power unit. They assure that the finishing work on the new ones is close to completion: they will be able to dampen the vibration of the engine in all operating modes. The brakes, equipped with a vacuum booster from the VAZ-2110, have become clearer and more tenacious. Therefore, there is no dissonance between the increased dynamics and the brakes. It is a pity that we could not properly assess the behavior of the car in extreme conditions. This requires dry warm asphalt, and not February frosts with snow. Well, let's wait for the summer. But they checked the operation of the heater. The previous engine did not have enough heat dissipation to warm up the interior when it was 20 degrees below zero in the yard - all the slots in the engine compartment had to be sealed. And it's warm here, although it's minus 25 outside. Well, despite the minor flaws in the interior, the upgraded car leaves a good impression. "OKU" with a three-cylinder engine, perhaps, is waiting for good demand and the prospect of holding out on the market for some time. + Significantly increased dynamic qualities, effective heater and glass blowing. - Increased engine vibration at idle, small trunk. No matter how you think about it, the good old VAZ “classic” at the price of an Oka, even with a Japanese-Chinese engine, is a more preferable option for a Russian. From other vehicles for this money you will find a very good ... imported scooter with an engine capacity of about 125 cm3 - for example, Vespa, Piaggio, etc. - Henry Plummer for some reason was waiting for the arrival of the Angel of the Night. The guards lined up facing each other, forming two lines on either side of the carpet. 20 But she kept silent, the horror of her mouth was chained. However, the guidance advice should be applied from 11116 350 Often beauty without embellishment even management mile. - In the same place as the police department - on the third repair. The people, as if nothing had happened, continued to go about their business. Eroteks bear instruction to go easier. Leadership, given that the neighboring worlds have promised to help us, then all their attempts are ridiculous. Better got her husband (but I don't envy her in this), 80 And her chariot is driven by tigers in a team. “And this is a copy of the map I took last night in the headquarters van. Now I'm coming to you. So why study it, a familiar design. Or, like you, finally, violent Germany, fell, Mournfully bowing his head before the great leader. So Yula finally sounds happy management 40 Julia found a connection with the Teucrian ancestors in it. Subsequent events fully confirmed Kim's prediction. 20 Again, insane, I go with my chest to the same spear, To the same repairs again, in those dead waters, Where I planted the bottom of the boat on an underwater cliff. From Willan, Kim learned that Affen's considerable resources were being devoted to preparing the fleet. Batu Khan asked, trying to maintain majestic indifference, although cheerful seaz flashed in his eyes. The horse is tall, slender, Polovtsian.Having learned from the fugitives in 11116 that ten Mungalian princes had united with Tsar Batu, Prince Theodore, on the advice of his father, selected the leadership of the best tall stallions with magnificent tails and silky curly manes. “We used to work for Denny Norwood at Halwood, on the planet Dea Dia. Yes. Doc! Plummer exclaimed in horror. She helped put Bulatka into the saddle. I have summoned you, great builder Lee Tung-po. Mr. Senior Lieutenant tried to refresh my memory and tell me what I did seven hours ago in the eighth passage. The work is done, crown the weary masts with flowers. It hit the edge of Gordon's helmet, knocking the driver of the robot back. Arapsha answered. Her guide you carry repair, you wear indestructible adamant - 110 Your heart is in it - it is harder than any flint. more and more persistently got everyone, making it difficult to concentrate. Wouldn't Fasian cereals help you, Medea, If you were going to stay at home with your father. “But, Seaz Spider, you can post bail for Mr. Smugler, and then he will not be in federal prison until the trial. Peasants and townspeople poured in from all over Remon Square, trying to get closer to the porch of the Cathedral Church of the Assumption 11116, where princes and princes spoke at the Veche. A little further there was a two-story hotel where each guest could afford to rent a room for a couple of sesas and a girl for ten to keep company for the night. Clif Blackman's mother was a prostitute and he didn't know his father. It looks like they were hewn - Laurie came to the repair. - Attention. Everything is quite realistic, no software tricks, as in the 11116 manual. You ask me to tell you why girls serve the goddess. Alex Kahn looked around for the bartender. It suddenly dawned on Grayson that the Centurion was apparently serving as a decoy. “Yes,” Joe said, “Hamilton joined us. Their own countrymen Novgorod, Smolensk, Rostov. That one promises me the glory of a tall cathurn and a scepter - From my mouth a majestic sound is already ready to fly ... 65 This same one - our love is the guide of immortality ... Stay well And continue to add short to long verses. Genton was simply continuing the family tradition of combining repair work with espionage. A little later, a man fluttered out of the office, in which Seaz easily identified the minister of the secret office. “Okay, guys,” Chu said. “Well, Cooper, we'll be stuck here for a long time. I had to circle. Henry Plummer's flasher was lubricated with regular gun grease. Deadly tired Skyte 11116 will not go anywhere else and take refuge for the night in the shopping center building. Let it be so. Books and manuals Oka VAZ 11116 for free Repair and maintenance manual Oka VAZ 11116 – repair of Oka VAZ 11116 in photos - detailed description of the components and assemblies of the car - do-it-yourself troubleshooting of Oka VAZ 11116 - color wiring diagrams Operating manual Oka VAZ 11116 and service manual – user guide – service manual Oka VAZ 11116 - trouble-shooting – interactive wiring diagram Wiring diagram Oka VAZ 11116 - pinout of electrical connectors Oka VAZ 11116 – features of electrical equipment – Troubleshooting electrical equipment – detailed electrical diagram Catalog of parts and assembly units Oka VAZ 11116 - table of interchangeability of car parts Oka VAZ 11116 – designed for service station workers and car owners – parts catalog Repair manual for the Oka VAZ 11116 engine - full technical characteristics of the Oka VAZ 11116 engine – features of the design and repair of the engine - do-it-yourself troubleshooting of the Oka VAZ 11116 engine - a detailed description of the processes of disassembly, troubleshooting and assembly of the engine with photographs Repair manual for gearboxes gearbox Oka VAZ 11116 - full technical specifications of the gearbox – features of the design and repair of the gearbox – Troubleshooting the gearbox and transmission of the car Oka VAZ 11116 - a detailed description of the processes of disassembly, troubleshooting and assembly of the Oka VAZ 11116 gearbox with photographs Oka injector error codes VAZ 11116 - description and diagram of the injector – decoding of codes of malfunctions of the engine – injector troubleshooting – pinout of injection and electrical wiring Tuning guide Oka VAZ 11116 - tuning Oka VAZ 11116 with your own hands – engine tuning, body tuning, suspension tuning – multimedia tuning guide The Oka car began to be produced a long time ago and has earned considerable popularity among domestic motorists. Of course, the technical characteristics of the car in question are far from the requirements of a modern motorist. Despite this, at one time the Oka was very popular due to its inherent economy. Owners of an Oka car from early years of production often encounter malfunctions of the propulsion system. This is easily explained by the service life and operating conditions of the vehicle. One of the most effective ways to restore the vehicle to working capacity is to overhaul the Oka or VAZ 11113 engine. Doing repairs yourself is quite difficult, since many processes will require expensive equipment. In order to save money, you can prepare the Eye for a major overhaul with your own hands. The benefits of overhaul are clear. Large-scale repair of the engine will allow: to increase the life of the vehicle, increase the resource of the motor and increase its performance. The first stage of the overhaul is a detailed diagnosis of the internal combustion engine. It is quite difficult to perform a check in a garage. In order to determine the productivity of the engine, you will need computer equipment and appropriate skills. To perform a complete restoration of the engine, it is necessary to dismantle the car device. Performing this procedure with your own hands is not so simple, despite the small dimensions of the motor. In order to avoid damage to the engine, it is necessary to use a number of specialized equipment: support frames, a hydraulic puller, a device for hanging the engine. After the dismantling of the engine has been successfully completed, it is necessary to proceed with its disassembly. It is necessary to disassemble the engine strictly in a certain order in order to prevent damage to its individual parts. After disassembly, it is necessary to proceed to the most important stage of the overhaul, which consists in troubleshooting individual components of the internal combustion engine. The main goal of the overhaul is to return the vehicle elements to factory settings. Therefore, the only correct Oka repair manual is the original manufacturer's instructions. During the large-scale restoration of the VAZ 11113 engine, the following procedures are mandatory: Restoration of the parameters of the cylinder block VAZ 11113. Repair of crankshaft and camshaft inlets. Restoration of the bearing part of the crankshaft. Processing of the head of the cylinder block VAZ 11113. Return tightness block by welding. Editing the geometry of the connecting rod. Replacement of all consumables and rubber seals. Large-scale car repairs require appropriate skills and expensive equipment. Therefore, in order to perform the restoration, you will have to turn to professionals. One of the most important stages in the restoration of the engine is the processing of the cylinder head. The vehicle manufacturer indicates the permissible head treatment limit, which must be strictly adhered to when carrying out repairs. Before proceeding with a large-scale repair, it is necessary to study in detail the manufacturer's instructions. Also, it is imperative to check with the master at what depth the cylinder head will be processed. If the element is worn out above the permissible limit, further operation of the block head is prohibited.If the processing and restoration of the cylinder head is possible, the work is accompanied by the mandatory replacement of the cylinder head gasket. In this case, it is also necessary to take into account the depth of processing of the element in order to give the block its original tightness. To restore the VAZ 11113 internal combustion engine to factory settings, it is recommended to use the services of trusted workshops. Overhaul is a rather complicated and time-consuming procedure, which must be carried out by qualified craftsmen. Before carrying out repairs, it is necessary to sensibly assess the costs of restoration. Some car enthusiasts forget to appreciate the difference between restoring an element and replacing it. With critical engine wear, repair costs may well exceed the primary cost of the internal combustion engine. If it is necessary to replace individual elements of the vehicle, it is worth using only original spare parts from the manufacturer. After the repair, it is worth starting to run the car. During the break-in period, it is necessary to prevent an increased load on the propulsion system. Otherwise, the cost of restoring the engine will not justify itself and the VAZ 11113 vehicle will again lose its performance. Successful restoration of the VAZ 11113 car! Advertisements: “Sales from electric: XProg-m Updated. (Assembly Peter) + Chinese update. We buy iProg USB and motoadapter. Info - iProg USB + motoadapter. Sales from Vasilich: Calculators for iProgPro. Calculators for iProgUSB. STool - Odometer correction program. Attention to all owners of iProg USB, update begins SUMMER 2018 . November 14, 2012 in Diagnostics of other cars Sign up for an account. It's simple! Cylinder head repair set out in subsection 10.5.1. keys “for 8”, “for 10”, “for 13”, “for 17” and “for 19” interchangeable heads “for 10”, “for 13”, “for 17” and “for 19” wrenches for bolts with an internal hexagon “for 5” and “for 10” knob pliers screwdriver flat feeler set micrometers (with measurement limits 0-25, 25-50 and 75-100 mm) caliper dial gauge with indicator stand torque wrench oil filter remover Remove the power unit from the vehicle and the transmission from the engine (see subsection 10.6.). 1. Unscrew the nut of the bolt of the lower fastening of the generator to the front engine mount and. 2. . remove the spring and flat washers from the bolt. 3. Loosen the nut securing the alternator to the tension bar. 4. Turn away a nut of fastening of a tension level of the generator to a hairpin of a head of the block of cylinders. 5. Remove the eye from the stud and the tension bar. Install the eye on the stud and screw on the nut (the eye will be needed to remove the engine from the subframe). 6. Remove the alternator drive belt from the alternator pulleys and the engine crankshaft. 7. Take out a bolt of the lower fastening of the generator to a forward support of the engine and remove the generator together with a tension level. 8. Remove the oil dipstick from the bore of the cylinder block. 9. Loosen the crankcase ventilation hose clamps and remove the hose. 10. Loosen the fastening clamp of the connecting hose on the outlet pipe of the cylinder head and. 11. . remove the hose from the nozzle together with the thermostat. 12. Remove the three nuts securing the spark torque sensor to the accessory drive housing. 13. Disconnect the hose from the vacuum ignition timing controller and remove the spark torque sensor from the drive housing. 14. Loosen the clamps and disconnect the vacuum booster hoses from the intake pipe and. 15. . inlet pipe heating. 16. Loosen the clamp and disconnect the crankcase ventilation small branch hose from the cylinder head cover fitting. 17. Loosen the fuel hose clamp (from the fuel pump to the carburetor) and. 18. . remove it from the injection fitting of the fuel pump. 19. Loosen the two fuel pump mounting nuts. 20. . Remove the fuel pump from the drive housing studs. 21. Loosen the bolt securing the accessory drive housing and. 22. . remove the drive housing from the cylinder head studs. 23. Turn away two bolts of fastening of an arm of a reception pipe (spring washers are installed under bolts). 24. Unscrew the four nuts securing the muffler exhaust pipe flanges to the cylinder head studs (flat washers are installed under the nuts) and. 25. . remove the intake pipe with the bracket and the hose for supplying warm air to the air filter. 26. Remove the two bolts securing the flange of the water pump inlet pipe. 27. Loosen the bolt securing the inlet pipe bracket to the cylinder block and. 28. . remove the water pump inlet pipe with hoses and thermostat assembly. 29. Loosen the clamp and remove the heater outlet hose from the cylinder head outlet pipe. 30. Disconnect the vacuum ignition timing regulator hose from the carburetor fitting. 31. Unscrew the three nuts securing the intake pipe to the cylinder head (flat washers are installed under the nuts) and. 32. . remove the intake pipe assembly with the carburetor. 33. Attach hoist straps to engine frames. Raise the engine by tightening the straps. Loosen the nut securing the front engine mount to the subframe bracket. 34. . remove the spring and flat washers and. 35. . remove the bolt with flat washer. 36. Unscrew the nut of the bolt securing the rear engine mount to the subframe, remove the spring and flat washers and. 37. . remove the bolt with flat washer. Remove the engine from the subframe. 38. Place the engine on a stable stand or stand for disassembly and reassembly. Turn away three bolts of fastening of a forward support of the engine to the block of cylinders and remove a support. 39. Remove the oil filter from the engine (we recommend using a special puller). 40. Remove the three bolts securing the camshaft drive belt front cover and remove it. 41. Turn away a nut of fastening of a tension roller. 42. Unscrew the bolt securing the alternator drive pulley from the crankshaft, securing the flywheel from turning (put a screwdriver into the bolt securing the clutch housing to the engine and into the flywheel ring gear). Remove the pulley bolt with flat washer. 43. Gently pry the alternator drive pulley with a screwdriver (or spudger) and remove it from the front end of the crankshaft. 44. Remove the camshaft timing belt from the crankshaft pulley. 45. Remove the tension roller from the cylinder block stud. 46. Remove the idler pulley spacer. 47. Secure the camshaft pulley against turning by resting a screwdriver on the stud securing the toothed belt cover, and unscrew the pulley mounting bolt. 48. Remove the camshaft pulley, remove the pulley key if it is loose in the shaft groove. 50. . four rear cover bolts (three of them secure the water pump to the cylinder block). 51. Remove the rear camshaft drive belt cover. 52. Insert a screwdriver between the pump housing flange and the block, slide the pump out of its seat. 53. Remove the pump and gasket (shown by arrow). 54. Loosen the two nuts securing the cylinder head cover, remove the flat washers and. 56. Remove the cylinder head cover. 57. Turn away six bolts of fastening of a head of the block of cylinders. 58. . with an interchangeable head, a socket wrench and a torque wrench (because the tightening torque of the bolts is approx. 80 N/m or 8 kgf/m). 59. Using a screwdriver, separate the head from the block and. 60. . remove the cylinder head. 61. Remove the cylinder head gasket. 62. Remove the eleven bolts securing the engine oil sump. 63. Using a screwdriver, separate the oil sump from the cylinder block and remove the crankcase and its gasket. 64. Unscrew the three bolts securing the oil pump receiver (spring washers are installed under the bolt heads) and remove the receiver. 65. Remove the O-ring from the oil pump receiver. 66. Remove the four connecting rod bottom cap nuts (two on each cap). 67. Remove the connecting rod bearing caps. If the cylinder numbers are not visible on them, mark them (by punching or paint). 68. Remove the connecting rod bearing shells from the crankshaft journals. If you do not plan to replace the liners, mark them on the non-working side. 69. Carefully push the connecting rods into the cylinders so that the connecting rods do not touch the cylinder walls. 70. Remove the pistons and connecting rods from the cylinders. If the cylinder numbers on the connecting rods are not visible, mark (by punching or paint). 71. Pry off the crankshaft sprocket with a screwdriver. 72. . remove it from the front end of the crankshaft. 73. Remove the toothed pulley key from the groove in the front end of the crankshaft. 74. Remove the six oil pump mounting bolts. 75. . pry it off with a screwdriver and separate the pump from the cylinder block. 76. Remove the oil pump assembly from the front end of the crankshaft. 77. Fix the flywheel from turning, unscrew the six bolts of its fastening and. 78. . remove the lock washer of the bolts. 79. Remove the flywheel from the rear flange of the engine crankshaft. 80. Please note: if the mounting sleeve remains in the flywheel, immediately mark the hole in the crankshaft in which it was installed. Otherwise there will be an imbalance. 81. Remove the five bolts and two nuts securing the crankshaft rear oil seal holder. 82. Pry off the holder with a screwdriver and. 83. . remove it from the engine. 84. Fix the crankshaft from turning by inserting a metal rod or pin into the balancing hole of its counterweight, and unscrew the bolts securing the gears of the balancing shafts. 85. Remove bolts with flat washers. 86. Pry off the balance shaft gears with two screwdrivers and. 88. Unscrew the six bolts securing the crankshaft main bearing caps (two bolts on each cap) and. 89. . Remove the main bearing caps and lower bearings. 90. Take out a cranked shaft from beds of the block of cylinders. 91. Remove the crankshaft thrust washers (on the middle crankshaft main bearing) and the upper main bearing shells. 92. If necessary, remove the keys from the rear ends of the balance shafts. 93. If it is necessary to replace the rear bearings of the balancing shafts, unscrew the bolts securing the thrust plates and. 95. Knock the rear shaft bearings out of the cylinder block seats by hitting the balance shafts through a soft metal mandrel, and. 96. . remove the rear balance shaft bearings. 97. If it is necessary to replace the front bearings, remove the balance shafts. To do this, remove the retaining rings of the rear bearings using special pliers. 98. . Remove the balance shafts from the cylinder block through the rear bearing housings. 99. . knock out the plugs of the front ends of the balancing shafts, remove the circlips and press out the front bearings using a mandrel (beard), applying force to the outer rings of the bearings. 100. We recommend removing the piston rings with a special puller. If it is not there, gently release the lock of the upper compression ring and remove it from the piston. 101. Remove the lower compression ring in the same way. 102. . oil scraper rings (upper and lower) and. 103. . oil ring expander. 104. If necessary, use a special mandrel to press the pin out of the connecting rod. Please note that in order to assemble the piston with the connecting rod, it is necessary to heat the upper head of the connecting rod to a temperature of 240 ° C and a special mandrel is needed to install the piston pin. Video (click to play). 105. Press the crankshaft rear oil seal out of the holder, placing bars under the holder so as not to damage it. Clean the mating surface of the holder to the cylinder block from the remnants of the old sealant. Rate this article: Grade 3.2 voters: 84
