DIY seaz 11116 repair

Is registered: 22.10.
Posts: 8

Is registered: 10.07.2007
Posts: 321
Location: Veliky Novgorod, SeAZ-11116, euro-2

Is registered: 05.09.
Posts: 223
Location: Orenburg, SeAZ-11116 (Euro-3)

Is registered: 28.06.
Posts: 163
Location: South of Russia

here is what is on the list there (it was and is lying on my screw):

Spare parts catalog version 1 1.24MB 12/07/2007
Operation manual for TJ engine and gearbox 1.93MB 12/07/2007
Wiring diagram SEAZ 11116 1.23MB 10/25/2007
scheme E3-2110.jpg 1,13MB 12/06/2007
ECM diagram 251, KB 10/25/2007

those. The “repair manual” hasn't been there yet, it seems? (otherwise I was slightly surprised - like, there is already that, but I don't know?)

which of the following do you need to put on a rapidshare? or all? I'm not lazy.

Is registered: 26.05.2007
Posts: 5

Is registered: 26.05.2007
Posts: 5

Kitty
Okavod of the Year 2008

Is registered: 29.09.2006
Posts: 1216
Location: Peter Rzhevka

Is registered: 26.05.2007
Posts: 5

Is registered: 26.05.2007
Posts: 5

Kitty
Okavod of the Year 2008

Is registered: 29.09.2006
Posts: 1216
Location: Peter Rzhevka

Fray
Lives on the forum

Is registered: 21.04.2007
Posts: 529
Location: Petersburg, Primorsky district

Kitty
Okavod of the Year 2008

Is registered: 29.09.2006
Posts: 1216
Location: Peter Rzhevka

• OKA E3 015.jpg202.04K 79 Number of downloads:
• OKA E3 024.jpg110.91K 91 Number of downloads:
• OKA E3 012.jpg196.25K 74 Number of downloads:

So I don’t remember at once what it was. The power on the device went on, and began to check
control all disappeared. He extended the power supply with new wires.

I checked everything from the beginning with the device, then with a control with a light bulb (not with a diode)

no. very similar to vaz bosch m 1.5.4

This is from OKI (the last one before the death of SeAZ).

This is when they already went E3, and the previous ones were E2. If you look on the forum, I wrote a whole article about them there, it was true a long time ago, in 2007.

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demarc 14 Nov 2012

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mihail2008 15 Jan 2014

Scandok and VagKom are definitely taken, I don't know the scanmatic.

And how to diagnose such an eye? She, like an ordinary Bosch, does not take, the scanmatic2 does not see her.

I don’t know the second.
The first one sees.

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mihail2008 15 Jan 2014

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mihail2008 16 Jan 2014

people began to buy oki lately

Are they still being produced? I thought this brand had sunk into oblivion.

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mihail2008 16 Jan 2014

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svoboda3737 16 Jan 2014

And how to diagnose such an eye? She, like an ordinary Bosch, does not take, the scanmatic2 does not see her.

Last week I bought SEAZ 11116 from OKA-Auto. Color - green metallic. Before that, four years ago there was a KAMAZ OKA. When buying a car, I proceeded from several considerations:
- There was an amount of about 160 thousand rubles in stock.
- You need a car for the wife to cope with the controls and dimensions
- You need to drive to the house, where the road is a broken clay track, or a snowdrift
- Maximum budget savings are desirable
- You can put your mother-in-law, wife and three children in a special. armchairs

On all counts, with the exception of one, OKA and Land Cruiser approached. OKA did not fit the seats, the jeep - for the price. I had to give up the place))). Although, I remember I went to Kostroma and went in a car: me (height 180, weight 75), wife (height 180 weight 60), Vic (height 170 weight 55), Kostroma (height OGOGO, weight corresponds), wife's brother (height 180 , weight 100). You should have seen the eyes of visitors to the supermarket when we got out of it)))).

Operations on a message:

Cars of an especially small class VAZ-1111 are equipped with a 12-volt electric system with a negative terminal connected to the car body. The cars were equipped with carburetor and injection power units, which had little effect on the location and purpose of the chains. The VAZ-1111 electrical circuit, basic for all versions of the Oka, can be used when repairing a car of any build year.

The car electrical system includes the following components:

• contactless ignition system;
• ignition lock with contact group and auxiliary relays;
• alternator with built-in regulating unit;
• an electric DC motor used to start the power unit;
• external lighting and alarm system, together with wiring and controls;
• sound signal warning other road users;
• front and rear window wipers and washers;
• electric heating of the glass surface on the tailgate;
• control of the air supply system through the heater;
• a combination of devices with control indicator lamps;
• a fuse box that protects circuits from excessive amperage (resulting from a short circuit or component failure).

The sources of voltage for the work of an electrician are:

1. Battery located in the engine compartment. The device is used to start the power unit and provide electricity to consumers when the engine is not running.
2. Generator driven by the engine crankshaft. The product is designed to replenish the battery charge and ensure the work of the electrician while the car is moving.

List of elements indicated in the diagram:

The indicated colors of the connecting wires correspond to the factory documentation. Many owners, during repairs, replace sections of bundles with cables with arbitrary color insulation. Because of this, on some cars, it is difficult to identify the wiring.

The electrical circuit of the VAZ-11113 does not differ significantly from the VAZ-1111. The car was equipped with a modernized version of the power unit and some components that practically did not affect the electrics.

Contactless ignition VAZ-11113

• 1 - control relay;
• 2 - ignition lock with a contact group;
• 3 - protective fuse;
• 4 - controller;
• 5 - a sensor that determines the moment the spark is supplied;
• 6 - common ignition coil;
• 7 - candles.

On cars SeAZ-11116 with a europanel and a Chinese 3-cylinder engine, the electrician has undergone changes. The machines use an electronic instrument cluster, which has led to the emergence of a number of new sensors. The fuel supply system has changed, into which a fuel pump with a control relay was introduced. Big innovations appeared in the engine compartment, where the fuel injection and ignition control system began to be installed. At the same time, the main part of the wiring, the fuse box and relay has passed unchanged from the old carburetor version.

The diagram shows the following units of electrical equipment:

Fast, high quality, inexpensive computer diagnostics, tuning of injectors, chip tuning, installation of gas equipment.

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Electrical schematic diagrams ECM. (.rar 0.8Mb) download

Operation and maintenance instructions. (pdf 1,7Mb) download

Operation and repair manual VAZ 1111-11113 (rar.25,3Mb) download

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SeAZ-11116 differs from the well-known VAZ-11113 model with a new power unit. Hidden under the hood of the baby is a 3-cylinder engine manufactured by the Chinese corporation FAW (TJ 376 QE) paired with a 5-speed manual transmission. It complies with Euro 2 environmental standards, and if desired, replacing the control unit with an appropriate one, you can achieve Euro 3 standards.

The service life of the OKA - 11116 with a Chinese engine compared to the OKA - 11113 has doubled and amounted to 200,000 km.

COMMON DATA
The old model name is VAZ-11116
Body type hatchback
Number of doors / seats 3/4
Curb weight, kg 660
Engine displacement, l 0.993
Engine power, h.p. 53
Torque, Nm at rpm 77
Maximum speed, km / h 150
Acceleration time to 100 km / h, s 18

FUEL CONSUMPTION
Fuel consumption per 100 km at 90 km / h, l 4.5
Fuel consumption per 100 km, urban cycle, l 6.2

Prices for OKA SeAZ-11116 from 137,400 to 142,550 rubles - depending on the configuration

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Who is interested in a detailed report of the shackle [ Registration is required to view the links. Register now. ]

And here is a new vidon for the CRAZY STOOL made:

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Judging by the photo, they even put it on the 13th radius

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Yes, there is also an engine, judging by the pipe, 21081 (1.1l) was pushed
The body, apart from the doorknob, is very pretty, and the interior is just shameful. Somehow everything is empty and tasteless

But there is such an option.

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At the InterAuto showroom in Moscow (it will take place from August 29 to September 4), the Serpukhov Automobile Plant will present a luxury modification of the Oka, which will go into mass production, reports the Autocentre publication. The most luxurious "Oka" will have radio preparation, heated seats, new upholstery, other front seats and even ... air conditioning. How much such "Oka" will cost is not yet known.

Let's remind that in 2008 "SeAZ" promises to start production of seriously modernized "Oka". The restyled car is being developed by the Anglo-Belgian company Multipass Business Ltd, which is supposed to create a new look for the Russian minicar. In addition, SeAZ engineers promise to seriously work on fine-tuning the suspension, steering, brakes (under the hood of the updated Oka there will be a Chinese 1.0-liter engine with a capacity of 53 hp). Simultaneously with the deep restyling of Oka, SeAZ will expand its production capacity to 50 thousand vehicles, and in the future to 100 thousand vehicles per year.

I, as a former owner, will say so. when I was saving up for a VAZ 2105, a crisis broke out and the loot began to hide. There was enough money for the current for an eye, it then cost 1300 USD. I had to take it because Lada moved aside for at least 3 years. I am generally a good auto mechanic and always repaired myself until the bulkhead dvigla. But what brought me an eye was not with one car. It's just a mega-nightmare. not only that, having reached the garage, my antifreeze boiled over 34 thousand runs, I changed 3 high coils. 2 starters, changed shruzy 1 time and 4 times their anthers. 1 time the box broke (2 was not cut in) and there are no small things to count at all. And if, after the first breakdown, I would not have spent three days on the bulkhead of the car and retightened the head correctly with a dynamo key, then it is not known that it would be true with a dviglom. in general, half a year I finished it and then a year more or less traveled. But the problem is still there, I'm ready to buy expensive pads so that the linings do not fall off in the cold! I'm too lazy to rivet the lining myself. But no Ferado, for example, does this size. and so on many points.

And right now, it costs 3500-4100 dollars, but I’m more likely to buy a wretched classics there at least more space

DIAMAG USB Oscilloscope User Forum

vlad73 »05 Apr 2016, 06:52

valeron »05 Apr 2016, 16:03

liros »05 Apr 2016, 17:39

kikozik »05 Apr 2016, 17:54

kikozik »05 Apr 2016, 17:59

kikozik »05 Apr 2016, 18:03

valeron »06 Apr 2016, 00:18

vlad73 »Apr 06, 2016 03:21 am

Serg57i »Apr 06, 2016 4:10 am

vlad73 Apr 07, 2016 04:53 am

Extra small 3-door 4-seater hatchback with transverse engine and front-wheel drive. The production of the Oka was started in 1989 at the Volzhsky Automobile Plant.The engine is a two-cylinder with a working volume of 650 cc, in 1997 it was increased to 750 cc. volume. At present, the production of Oka cars has been transferred to the Kama Automobile Plant, as well as the Serpukhov Automobile Plant. In addition to the basic models KamAZ-11113 and SeAZ-11113, manual options are offered for disabled people. Due to its very low price, it is of interest for export.

This small car was developed at the Volga Automobile Plant for "corporate" production at three factories - VAZ, KamAZ and SeAZ (in a disabled version). It has been produced at the Volga Automobile since 1990.

Distinctive features - modest overall dimensions, front-wheel drive, a two-cylinder engine with a working volume of 650 cubic centimeters (“half” of an “eight” engine), a universal three-door body with a folding rear seat.

Later, modification 11113 appeared with a more powerful 0.75-liter engine. In addition, an electric vehicle has been developed on the basis of Oka, which is assembled piece by piece in the Pilot Industrial Production.

Several years ago, the production of Oka was discontinued at the Volga automobile plant, now it is produced only by KamAZ and SeAZ, although power units (only 0.75 liters) are still produced only by VAZ.

Now "Oku" produces only SeAZ. By the end of 2007, they plan to assemble 20 thousand cars of a new modification - with a Chinese engine.

Engine: petrol, 0.993 l (53 hp).

Transmission: 5-speed manual.

Price: 132-150 thousand rubles. ($ 5000-5700).

At one time the Oka was built by the whole world: VAZ made power units, KamAZ made bodies, and SeAZ made controls for disabled versions.

Almost from the very birth of the car, the developers did not abandon their attempts to replace the two-cylinder engine with a volume of 650, and later 750 "cubes" with some other - more powerful, and so that it would not chirr like a post-war "invalid". Among the contenders were the original three-cylinder engine created by VAZ (it never went into production), the smallest of the "eight" family - VAZ-21081 (1100 smz) and even an engine from Tavria. But the three-cylinder imported won the tender.

With the new engine, Oka has become truly international. SeAZ and the Chinese Tian Jin FAW have signed a contract for the supply of power units. It is a 0.993 liter (Euro II) three-cylinder injection engine with a five-speed gearbox. Once the Japanese put this engine on Toyota.

Starting in March, the Oka with the Chinese under the hood (index SeAZ-11116) replaced the two-cylinder predecessor SeAZ-11113 on the conveyor. The contract provides for the delivery of 20 thousand power units in 2007.

The new engine easily fit under the hood of the baby, but left no room for the spare wheel. However, the manufacturers of "Oka" decided to "rearrange" it to 13-inch wheels, and such a spare wheel with the same engine did not fit under the hood. She had to move into the trunk, reducing the already modest volume of the compartment.

In addition to the three-cylinder engine, the car received new lighting technology ("Hella"), bumpers and radiator grilles painted in body color, and even athermal glass. An innovation in the cabin is the instrument panel with a "tenth" -based combination.

In the new dashboard, as before, there is an open shelf instead of a closed glove box. In the center of the panel there is a clock, and along the edges there are side window deflectors stylized as speaker grilles. Above - four slots for blowing the windshield. By the way, they work very efficiently - glass dries evenly and quickly.

All buttons and keys, of course, are from VAZ models. The instrument cluster "Lada-110" was built into the panel not entirely successfully - the control lamp for outdoor lighting is covered by the overlay of the instrument panel. The "check engine" lamp on the left side of the panel is decorative. Working - the one that is built into the combination.

The upholstery of doors and seats is now in noble fabric. Everything is fine, beautiful, but there are no pockets on the doors.The seats are very comfortable, the tilt of the backs is regulated by rotating handles, but reclining the back of the driver's seat is not very convenient - the lever that blocks it is located very close to the threshold. Outside mirrors are too small by modern standards.

The car turned out to be very dynamic and, what I liked especially, it became less sensitive to loading: at least one person in the cabin, at least four - it accelerates equally easily. The fifth gear, judging by the driving sensations, is economical. It is advisable to turn it on after 100 km / h.

The engine in motion is much more pleasant than the "native" one, does not emit the characteristic "shackled" snort. The clutch pedal is weightless, just right to put a spring under it for a better feel. Gear shifting is very pleasant - short lever strokes, precise and error-free engagement. A number of gear ratios are also good - apparently, our "Oka" turned out to be very close to the car for which this gearbox was created. Hit - one hundred percent!

I stopped at a traffic light, the engine was idling, and then a car. begins to shiver. Serpukhovites explain this drawback with the "old" supports of the power unit. They assure that the finishing work on the new ones is close to completion: they will be able to damp engine vibration in all operating modes.

The brakes, equipped with a vacuum booster from the VAZ-2110, have become clearer and more tenacious. Therefore, there is no dissonance between the increased dynamics and the brakes.

It is a pity, we could not properly assess the behavior of the car in extreme conditions. This requires warm dry asphalt, not February frosts with snow. Well, let's wait for summer. But we checked the operation of the heater. The previous engine did not have enough heat to warm up the interior when it was 20 degrees below zero, so all the cracks in the engine compartment had to be sealed. And here it is warm, although minus 25 outside.

Well, despite the minor interior flaws, the modernized car leaves a good impression.

"OKU" with a three-cylinder engine may have good demand and the prospect of holding out on the market for some time.

+ Significantly increased dynamic properties, efficient heater and glass blowing.

- Increased engine vibration at idle speed, small trunk.

No matter how you figure it out, the good old "classic" of VAZ at the price of "Oka", even with a Japanese-Chinese engine, is a more preferable option for a Russian.

From other vehicles for this money you will find a very good ... imported scooter with an engine capacity of about 125 cm3 - for example, Vespa, Piaggio, etc.

- Henry Plummer for some reason was waiting for the arrival of the Angel of the Night. The guardsmen lined up facing each other, forming two lines on either side of the carpet. 20 But she said nothing, terror bound her lips. However, the guidance and advice should be applied from 11116 350 Often, beauty without embellishment, even management mile. - In the same place as the police department - on the third renovation. The people, as if nothing had happened, continued to go about their business. Instruction of the erotic bear is easier to walk. Leadership considering that neighboring worlds have promised to help us, then all their attempts are ridiculous.

Better went to her husband (but I do not envy her in this), 80 And the tigers in a harness are driving her chariot. “And this is a copy of the map I took last night in the headquarters van. Now I am coming to you.

So why study it, a familiar construction. Or, as you, finally, violent Germany, fell, Mournful bowing his head before the great leader. So Yula sounds happy at last management 40 Julia in him found a connection with the Teukra ancestors. Further events fully confirmed Kim's forecast. 20 Again, madman, I walk with my chest on the same spear, To the same again I sail to repairs, into those pernicious waters, Where I planted the bottom of the boat on an underwater cliff. From Willan, Kim learned that Affen's considerable resources were devoted to training the fleet. - Asked Batu Khan, trying to maintain majestic indifference, although his eyes flashed merry seaz. The horse is tall, slender, Polovtsian.Having learned from the fleeing 11116 that ten Mungal princes had joined the tsar Batu, Prince Theodore, on the advice of his father, selected the leadership of the best tall stallions with lush tails and silky curly manes.

“We used to work for Danny Norwood in Halwood, on the planet Dea Dia. Yes. Doc! Plummer exclaimed in horror. She helped put Bulatka in the saddle. I summoned you, the great builder Li Tong-po.

Mister senior lieutenant tried to refresh my memory and tell what I did seven hours ago in the eighth passage. The work is done - crown the weary masts with flowers. It hit the edge of Gordon's helmet, throwing the robot driver back. - answered Arapsha. You carry her guide repair, you wear indestructible adamant - 110 Your heart is in it - it is harder than any flint. more and more persistently got everyone, interfering with concentration. Would Fasian cereals help you, Medea, If you were going to stay at home in your father's house. “But, Seaz Spyder, you can post a bail for Mr. Smugler, and then he will not be in federal prison until the trial. Peasants and townspeople poured in from all over to repair the square, trying to get closer to the porch of the Cathedral Church of the Assumption 11116, where the princes and princes performed at the veche.

A little further there was a two-story hotel, where each guest could afford to rent a room for a couple of seaz and a girl for ten to keep company for the night. Clif Blackman's mother was a prostitute, and he did not know his father. It looks like they were being trimmed - Lori came to be repaired. - Attention. Everything is quite realistic, no software tricks, as in the 11116 manual. You ask me to say why girls serve the goddess. Alex Kahn looked around for the bartender. It suddenly dawned on Grayson that the Centurion was apparently serving as bait. “Yes, said Joe,” Hamilton joined us.

Their own fellow countrymen are Novgorod, Smolensk, Rostov. That promises me the glory of a high caturn and a scepter - From my lips the majestic sound is already ready to fly off ... 65 This is the guide of immortality of our love ... Stay there And continue to add short verses to long verses. Genton simply continued the family tradition, combining repair work with espionage. A little later, a man fluttered out of the office, Seaz easily identified the minister of the secret office. “Okay guys,” Chu said. “Well, Cooper, we’ll hang around here for a long time.” I had to circle. Henry Plummer's flashter was greased with regular gun grease. Deathly tired Sky 11116 no longer go anywhere and take refuge for the night in a shopping center building. Let it be so.

Books and manuals Oka VAZ 11116 for free

Repair and maintenance manual for Oka VAZ 11116

- repair of the Oka VAZ 11116 in photos
- the components and assemblies of the car are described in detail
- do-it-yourself elimination of typical Oka VAZ 11116 malfunctions
- colored wiring diagrams

Operation manual Oka VAZ 11116 and service manual

- operation manual
- service manual Oka VAZ 11116
- trouble-shooting
- interactive wiring diagram

Wiring diagram Oka VAZ 11116

- pinout of electrical connectors Oka VAZ 11116
- features of electrical equipment
- elimination of malfunctions of electrical equipment
- detailed electrical diagram

Catalog of parts and assembly units Oka VAZ 11116

- table of interchangeability of car parts Oka VAZ 11116
- intended for service station workers and car owners
- parts catalog

Repair manual for the Oka VAZ 11116 engine

- full technical characteristics of the Oka VAZ 11116 engine
- design features and engine repair
- do-it-yourself troubleshooting of the Oka VAZ 11116 engine
- a detailed description of the processes of disassembly, troubleshooting and assembly of the engine with photographs

Repair manual for gearboxes of the Oka VAZ 11116 gearbox

- full technical characteristics of the checkpoint
- design and repair features of the checkpoint
- elimination of faults in the gearbox and transmission of the car Oka VAZ 11116
- a detailed description of the processes of disassembly, troubleshooting and assembly of the Oka VAZ 11116 gearbox with photographs

Error codes injector Oka VAZ 11116

- description and diagram of the injector
- decoding of engine fault codes
- elimination of injector malfunctions
- pinout of injection and wiring

Tuning guide Oka VAZ 11116

- tuning the Oka VAZ 11116 with your own hands
- engine tuning, body tuning, suspension tuning
- multimedia tuning guide

Oka's car began to be produced a long time ago and has earned considerable popularity among domestic motorists. Of course, the technical characteristics of the car in question are far from the requirements of a modern motorist. Despite this, at one time Oka enjoyed great popularity due to its inherent economy. Owners of an Oka car of the early years of production often encounter malfunctions of the engine system. This is easily explained by the service life and operating conditions of the vehicle. One of the most effective ways to return the vehicle to work is to overhaul the Oka or VAZ 11113 engine. It is quite difficult to carry out repairs yourself, since many processes will require expensive equipment. In order to save money, you can prepare the Oka for a major overhaul with your own hands.

The benefits of the overhaul are clear. Large-scale repair of the engine will allow: to increase the service life of the vehicle, to increase the resource of the engine and to increase its performance.

The first stage of the overhaul is a detailed diagnosis of the internal combustion engine. It is quite difficult to carry out a check in a garage. In order to determine the productivity of an engine, you will need computer equipment and related skills.

To perform a complete restoration of the engine, it is necessary to dismantle the vehicle device. It is not so easy to carry out this procedure with your own hands, despite the small dimensions of the motor. To avoid damage to the engine, it is necessary to use a number of specialized equipment: support frames, hydraulic puller, engine hanging device.

After the engine has been successfully dismantled, it is necessary to start disassembling it. It is necessary to disassemble the engine strictly in a certain order in order to prevent damage to its individual parts.

After disassembly, it is necessary to proceed to the most important stage of overhaul, which consists in troubleshooting individual components of the internal combustion engine. The main purpose of the overhaul is to restore the original parameters of the vehicle elements. Therefore, the only correct manual for repairing the Oka is the original manufacturer's instructions.

In the course of a large-scale restoration of the VAZ 11113 engine, the following procedures are mandatory:

• Restoring the parameters of the cylinder block VAZ 11113.
• Repair of crankshaft and camshaft inlets.
• Restoration of the bearing part of the crankshaft.
• Processing the head of the VAZ 11113 cylinder block.
• Restoring the tightness of the unit by welding.
• Correction of the connecting rod geometry.
• Replacement of all consumables and rubber seals.

Large-scale car repair requires appropriate skills and expensive equipment. Therefore, in order to perform the restoration, you will have to turn to professionals.

One of the most important stages of engine restoration is cylinder head processing. The vehicle manufacturer specifies the permissible head processing limit, which must be strictly adhered to when carrying out repairs. Before proceeding with a large-scale repair, it is necessary to study in detail the accompanying instructions of the manufacturer's plant. Also, it is imperative to check with the master to what depth the cylinder head will be processed. If the element is worn out above the permissible limit, further operation of the block head is prohibited.If processing and restoration of the cylinder head is possible, the work is accompanied by the obligatory replacement of the cylinder head gasket. In this case, it is also necessary to take into account the processing depth of the element in order to give the block its original tightness.

To restore the VAZ 11113 internal combustion engine to the factory parameters, it is recommended to use the services of proven workshops. Overhaul is a rather complicated and time-consuming procedure that must be carried out by qualified craftsmen. Before carrying out repairs, it is necessary to assess the cost of the restoration soundly. Some car enthusiasts forget to appreciate the difference between restoring an element and replacing it. With critical engine wear, repair costs may well exceed the primary cost of the internal combustion engine. If it is necessary to replace individual elements of the vehicle, it is worth using only original spare parts from the manufacturer.

After carrying out the repairs, it is worth starting to break in the car. During the running-in period, it is necessary to prevent an increased load on the propulsion system. Otherwise, the costs of restoring the engine will not pay off and the VAZ 11113 vehicle will again lose its performance.

Successful restoration of the VAZ 11113 car!

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Cylinder head repair outlined in subsection 10.5.1.

• keys "at 8", "at 10", "at 13", "at 17" and "at 19"
• replaceable heads "for 10", "for 13", "for 17" and "for 19"
• wrenches for screws with an internal hexagon "5" and "10"
• crank
• pliers
• screwdriver
• set of flat probes
• micrometers (with measuring ranges 0-25, 25-50 and 75-100 mm)
• bore gauge
• dial indicator with indicator stand
• torque wrench
• oil filter remover

Remove the power unit from the vehicle and the gearbox from the engine (see subsection 10.6.).

1. Unscrew the nut of the bolt of the lower fastening of the generator to the front engine support and.

2. ... remove the spring and flat washer from the bolt.

3. Loosen the nut securing the alternator to the tension bar.

4. Remove the nut securing the alternator tension bar to the cylinder head stud.

5. Remove the eyelet from the stud and the tension bar. Place the eye on the stud and screw on the nut (the eye is needed to remove the engine from the subframe).

6. Remove the alternator drive belt from the alternator pulleys and the engine crankshaft.

7. Remove the bolt of the lower fastening of the generator to the front engine support and remove the generator together with the tension bar.

8. Remove the dipstick from the cylinder block bore.

9. Loosen the crankcase ventilation hose clamps and remove the hose.

10. Loosen the clamp of the connecting hose on the outlet pipe of the cylinder head and.

11. ... remove the hose from the branch pipe together with the thermostat.

12. Remove the three nuts securing the spark moment sensor to the accessory drive housing.

13. Disconnect the hose from the vacuum ignition timing control and remove the spark moment sensor from the drive housing.

14. Loosen the tightening of the clamps and disconnect the vacuum booster hoses and from the inlet pipe.

15. ... heating the intake pipe.

16. Loosen the clamp and disconnect the small crankcase ventilation hose from the cylinder head cover fitting.

17. Loosen the fuel hose clamp (from the fuel pump to the carburetor) and.

18. ... remove it from the injection connection of the fuel pump.

19. Unscrew the two nuts securing the fuel pump and.

20. ... remove the fuel pump from the drive housing studs.

21. Remove the bolt securing the accessory drive housing and.

22. ... remove the drive housing from the cylinder head studs.

23. Unscrew the two bolts securing the bracket for the front exhaust pipe (spring washers are installed under the bolts).

24. Unscrew the four nuts securing the muffler front pipe flanges to the cylinder head studs (flat washers are installed under the nuts) and.

25. ... remove the front exhaust pipe with bracket and a hose for supplying warm air to the air filter.

26. Remove the two bolts securing the water pump inlet pipe flange.

27. Remove the bolt securing the bracket for the supply pipe to the cylinder block and.

28. ... remove the water pump inlet pipe with hoses and thermostat assembly.

29. Loosen the clamp and remove the heater outlet hose from the cylinder head outlet.

30. Disconnect the vacuum ignition timing regulator hose from the carburetor fitting.

31. Remove the three nuts securing the intake pipe to the cylinder head (flat washers are installed under the nuts) and.

32. ... remove the intake pipe assembly with the carburetor.

33. Hook the lifting straps to the engine frames. Raise the engine by tightening the straps. Remove the nut of the bolt securing the front engine mount to the subframe bracket.

34. ... remove the spring and flat washers and.

35. ... remove the bolt with flat washer.

36. Unscrew the nut of the bolt securing the rear engine support to the subframe, remove the spring and flat washers and.

37. ... remove the bolt with flat washer. Remove the engine from the subframe.

38. Place the engine on a stable stand or stand for disassembly and assembly. Remove the three bolts securing the front engine support to the cylinder block and remove the support.

39. Remove the oil filter from the engine (we recommend using a special remover).

40. Remove the three bolts securing the front camshaft belt cover and remove it.

41. Remove the tension roller nut.

42. Unscrew the bolt securing the alternator drive pulley from the crankshaft, fixing the flywheel from turning (rest the screwdriver against the bolt securing the clutch housing to the engine and against the flywheel ring gear). Remove the pulley bolt with flat washer.

43. Gently pry the alternator drive pulley with a screwdriver (or blade) and remove it from the front end of the crankshaft.

44. Remove the camshaft timing belt from the crankshaft pulley.

45. Remove the tension roller from the cylinder block stud.

46. Remove the idler pulley spacer ring.

47. Secure the camshaft pulley from turning by resting a screwdriver against the stud of the toothed belt guard and remove the pulley bolt.

48. Remove the camshaft toothed pulley, remove the pulley key if it does not fit snugly in the shaft groove.

50. ... four bolts of the rear cover (three of them attach the water pump to the cylinder block).

51. Remove the rear camshaft belt guard.

52. Insert a screwdriver between the pump casing flange and the block, slide the pump out of the seat.

53. Remove the pump and gasket (arrow).

54. Unscrew the two nuts securing the cylinder head cover, remove the flat washers and.

56. Remove the cylinder head cover.

57. Remove the six cylinder head bolts.

58. ... using an interchangeable head, a wrench for hexagon bolts and a torque wrench (since the tightening torque of the bolts is about 80 N / m or 8 kgf / m).

59. Use a screwdriver to separate the head from the block and.

60. ... remove the cylinder head.

61. Remove the cylinder head gasket.

62. Remove the eleven bolts securing the engine oil sump.

63. Use a screwdriver to separate the oil sump from the cylinder block and remove the crankcase and its gasket.

64. Remove the three bolts securing the oil pump receiver (spring washers are installed under the bolt heads) and remove the receiver.

65. Remove the O-ring from the oil pump receiver.

66. Remove the four connecting rod bottom cap nuts (two on each cap).

67. Remove the connecting rod bearing caps. If the cylinder numbers are not visible on them, apply marks (with punching or paint).

68. Remove the connecting rod bearing shells from the crankshaft journals. If you do not plan to replace the earbuds, mark them on the non-working side.

69. Carefully push the connecting rods into the cylinders so that the connecting rods do not hit the cylinder walls.

70. Remove the piston / connecting rod assembly from the cylinders. If the cylinder numbers are not visible on the connecting rods, mark them (with punching or paint).

71. Use screwdrivers to pry the crankshaft toothed pulley and.

72. ... remove it from the front end of the crankshaft.

73. Remove the toothed pulley retaining key from the groove in the front end of the crankshaft.

74. Remove the six bolts securing the oil pump.

75. ... pry it off with a screwdriver and separate the pump from the cylinder block.

76. Remove the oil pump assembly from the front end of the crankshaft.

77. Secure the flywheel from turning, unscrew the six bolts of its fastening and.

78. ... remove the bolt lock washer.

79. Remove the flywheel from the rear flange of the engine crankshaft.

80. Please note: if the dowel sleeve remains in the flywheel, immediately mark the hole in the crankshaft in which it was installed. Otherwise, an imbalance will appear.

81. Remove the five bolts and two nuts securing the crankshaft rear oil seal holder.

82. Pry off the holder with a screwdriver and.

83. ... remove it from the engine.

84. Secure the crankshaft from turning by inserting a metal rod or pin into the balancing hole of its counterweight, and unscrew the bolts securing the balance shafts gears.

85. Remove the bolts with flat washers.

86. Pry off the balance shaft gears with two screwdrivers and.

88. Remove the six bolts securing the crankshaft main bearing caps (two bolts on each cap) and.

89. ... remove the main bearing caps and lower shells.

90. Remove the crankshaft from the cylinder block beds.

91. Remove the crankshaft thrust washers (on the middle crankshaft main bearing) and the upper main bearing shells.

92. If necessary, remove the keys from the rear ends of the balance shafts.

93. If it is necessary to replace the rear bearings of the balance shafts, unscrew the retaining bolts of the thrust plates and.

95. Knock the rear shaft bearings out of the cylinder block seats by hitting the balance shafts through a soft metal mandrel, and.

96. ... remove the rear balancer shaft bearings.

97. If it is necessary to replace the front bearings, remove the balance shafts. To do this, remove the rear bearing circlips using special pliers.

98. ... remove the balance shafts from the cylinder block through the rear bearing seats.

99. ... Knock out the plugs of the front ends of the balance shafts, remove the circlips and press out the front bearings using a drift (bit), applying force to the outer rings of the bearings.

100. We recommend removing the piston rings with a special puller. If not, gently pry open the upper compression ring lock and remove it from the piston.

101. Remove the lower compression ring in the same way.

102. ... oil scraper rings (upper and lower) and.

103. ... expander oil scraper rings.

104. If necessary, press the pin out of the connecting rod using a special mandrel. Please note that to assemble a piston with a connecting rod, it is necessary to heat the upper connecting rod head to a temperature of 240 ° C and a special mandrel is needed to install the piston pin.

105. Press out the rear crankshaft oil seal from the holder, placing blocks under the holder to avoid damaging it. Clean the seating surface of the holder to the cylinder block from the remnants of the old sealant.