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This article will discuss the repair of touch-controlled hobs. Unfortunately, in most cases, it is not always possible to repair them with your own hands. However, first things first.
If you have mechanical control, which is usually the case with dependent panels or stationary electric stoves, then you can read about malfunctions here. I will divide everything else into two parts: what will work and what will not work to repair with my own hands.
If the touch control works, you can change the power, turn the burner on and off, but the burner either works constantly, and it starts working as soon as you turn on the panel, or does not work, regardless of the mode that you set through the sensor, then There are two types of faults:
If the burner heats up immediately when the panel is turned on and does not respond to changing modes, then it is most likely that you have stuck the relay contacts that are responsible for this burner. Here you need to check the relay contacts. Relays usually have two pairs of contacts. One pair comes with food. When power is applied, the coil draws in the core, which closes the contacts. The second pair is just the contacts controlled by the relay. The most likely cause is the welding of the contacts. In principle, if you know how to hold a soldering iron in your hands, then you can try to replace the relay with your own hands. There are two things to check: whether the power to the relay coil is turned off and whether the relay contacts open. If the coil power appears immediately when the panel is turned on, then you will have to go to the repair shop. If the coil power appears when you turn on the burner with the touch panel, then you need to check the control contacts. But in this case, as a rule, they are always closed.If the problem is in the relay, then in any case, a replacement will be required.
If the relay is working properly, but the burner does not work, while the relay is energized and the power contacts close, then we read here how to determine the malfunction of the burner.
If this is a new panel that you installed yourself, or suddenly half of the panel stopped working, or the sensor works, but the burners do not turn on, then look at the terminal block. In touch panels, the terminals in the block can be distributed in this way: one terminal is responsible for powering the electronics, the other two power the burners. That is, the situation when the electronics work, the touch panel shows that the power of the burners is regulated, but the burners themselves do not work, it is quite possible.
There may be two repairable problems and one conditionally repairable.
The sensor works with some delay. Some manufacturers specifically made this delay to prevent accidental pressing. That is, for the sensor to be triggered, you need to put your finger in the required area and wait a bit (usually up to two seconds), after which the sensors will respond quickly for some time (sometimes any sensor triggering occurs with a delay - the triggering algorithm is determined by the manufacturer).
Might need a child lock. Read the instructions for your panel about the lock or child protection mode.
It is possible that the glass above the touch panel or on the back side is somehow dirty. If wiping the glass does not help, then you will have to contact the service center.
Some hobs have a heating function. Usually, in this case, the display does not show 0, but the icon |_| (like half zero). In this case, the burner does not turn off completely, but goes into heating mode. Water, for example, will not boil in this mode, but will remain very hot until you turn off the burner or automatically turn off, if provided by the manufacturer.
Most likely this is not a malfunction. The cooking temperature in touch-sensitive hobs is controlled by turning it on and off. The more power is set, the less often there are shutdowns and the longer the on-time period. At the maximum mode, the burner works without turning off, except in case of overheating of the burner. In this case, the temperature sensor will trip. As soon as the hotplate cools down, the temperature sensor will work and the hotplate will turn on again.
The fault may or may not be conditionally correctable. I wrote about this problem here. In this case, replacing the temperature sensor will help.
There may be another kind of malfunction. The problem may lie in the electronics, then you will have to contact the workshop.
This is where conditionally repairable malfunctions end, so let's move on to malfunctions that you are unlikely to cope with on your own. Therefore, to eliminate them, you will have to contact a specialized workshop. I do not recommend contacting service centers. High-class specialists rarely sit in them and often you overpay for some services. Therefore, it is better to contact private companies. Repairs can be much cheaper, but you need to carefully approach the choice of a company.
As a rule, this happens with panels that are many years old. To a greater extent, this is due to electrolytic capacitors, which eventually lose their capacity. Theoretically, you can try to replace them. In practice, such a replacement helps only 50%. In this case, especially if the panels are more than 10 years old, it makes sense to think about buying a new one.
This includes all other faults that have not been considered.
Summarize. Faults in analog elements, that is, not electronic ones, can be considered conditionally removable.In this case, if you have the necessary skills, you can try to fix the problem yourself. When it comes to electronics, it is unlikely that someone will advise you on the Internet, because when it comes to electronics, it is not always possible to immediately determine the cause, even when the master directly inspects the panel. And to explain what a diode, transistor and other electronic components look like is even more difficult.
Having understood the functionality and interaction of components, having studied the methods for determining common faults, understanding what turns on and why it turns on, you can, without resorting to the services of craftsmen, carry out a simple repair of the hob with your own hands.
All modern hobs work on the same principle - the user acts on the control sensors, due to which power relays are switched on, switching high currents in the heating elements.
Therefore, first you need to localize the breakdown, that is, determine the defective node. It is assumed that the cable, connection terminals, fuse, voltage presence are checked, and command set errors are excluded.
Cooking surfaces (panels) are called electric heating kitchen appliances (electric stoves) having glass-ceramic outer cover. Glass-ceramic has a high strength, which allows it to withstand a significant weight of dishes, and has good thermal conductivity.
The attractive appearance, which some manufacturers (for example, Hansa) complement with artistic decorations, allows the stylish hob to successfully fit into the modern kitchen design.
Artistic design of the hob
Heating elements hidden under the glass-ceramic surface are of several types:
Spiral, working like conventional heating elements;
Corrugated tapes (modified filaments);
Halogen infrared lamps (HaloLight technology);
Induction coils that heat only the material of the cookware.
Various designs of thermoelectric burners
The burners of the first three types convert electric current into heat according to the Joule-Lenz law on the same principle as an incandescent filament in a conventional light bulb or a spiral in a conventional electric heating element is heated. The principle of heating using induction is described in detail in the article on induction boilers. Do-it-yourself repair of induction hobs will be discussed below.
Thermoelectric heaters have a heat-generating corrugation or spiral laid in a heat-resistant material, connection terminals, as well as heating sensors, presented in the form of a bimetallic plate located on the line of the radius or diameter of the burner. Expanding, the bimetallic plate acts on the contacts, closing or opening them.
Hob burner device
Depending on the design of the hob, the contacts of the temperature sensor can be power (acting like a thermostat), or signal, included in the electronic control circuit. Malfunctions of sensors (thermostats) are a common reason that the hob burner does not turn on.
In general, the repair of hobs differs little from the repair of electric stoves, which is described in detail in one of the articles of this resource. The main visual difference is the presence of a glass-ceramic surface and the type of heaters, the spirals of which are visible through a transparent surface. Also a distinctive feature is sensory electronic unit and the complete absence of the usual control levers.
Touch control hob
Therefore, the greatest difficulty in the repair of electric hobs is the electronic touch control unit, which is also a display. Do-it-yourself repair will require knowledge in radio engineering and special equipment.
But otherwise, the hob is not much different from an electric stove - the heating elements are turned on by power relays controlled by an electronic control board that receives signals from the sensor.
But first, without even disassembling the hob body, you can determine the malfunction of the touch display and the electronic control unit. As a rule, the receipt of a command from the user is accompanied by a sound signal and is displayed on the display. If there is no reaction to touch, then it becomes clear that the sensor is broken.
Indication of a properly functioning hob
The sensitivity of the sensor may be degraded due to severe surface contamination. It should be remembered that the entire glass-ceramic surface of the hob requires careful care and cleaning, otherwise cracks may form from the accumulation of scale and burning.
The operation of the stove with cracked glass ceramics will lead to its further destruction and breakage, so timely care and cleaning of the hobs is needed, as shown in the video:
VIDEO Electronic board with display elements and control sensors
As can be seen from the figure, the electronic board of the control unit has many small parts, including microcircuits, so repairing such a module with your own hands requires deep knowledge in radio engineering. If a malfunction of the sensor control unit is reliably established, then this board should be taken to a specialized repair shop.
If the surface diagnostics did not give results (the command turns on, but there is no heating), you should look for a malfunction in the power switching unit. Some models of hobs can independently diagnose some problems, signaling them using error codes that appear on the display. You should carefully study the user manual and these codes - this will save time when troubleshooting.
Error codes for some hobs
The power control unit (switching) of the hob consists of relay groups controlled by an electronic sensor unit. When the operating mode is selected, one or more relays are switched on, providing power to the corresponding heating elements.
Arrows indicate power relays
Even for a novice master, it will be easy to disassemble the panel case with your own hands in order to independently determine the malfunction of the heating element or power relay. For this purpose, you will need a multimeter and the skills to work with it. You will also need to determine the type of heating element itself in order to properly test it (for example, the resistance of an induction coil is close to zero).
More experienced craftsmen often use a different method - they check the voltage supply to the main components, moving from the power terminals through the power relays to the heating elements. Power relay contacts can burn out due to frequent switching on, and checking for voltage at the burner input terminals will determine if the relay is triggered.
Measuring the power supply voltage of the burner
It should be remembered that many elements inside the case are under voltage, life-threatening. Working under stress requires concentration, alertness and sober thinking
If there is a normal supply voltage, you can check the performance of the heating element visually - the filament should warm up.But, if the burner turns on, but does not warm up to the required temperature, you need to measure the current flowing. The easiest way to do this without breaking the circuit is with a multimeter equipped with clamp meters.
The use of current clamps for checking the current in the power circuits of the hob
Knowing the maximum power of the burner and the supply voltage, it is possible to calculate the rated current using Ohm's law. In the case of heating elements operating like a heating element, a decrease in heating current and temperature may be due to malfunctions in the electronic control unit, thermostatic elements or power relays.
If the halogen burner does not heat well, then internal chemical changes in the composition of the gas in the heating element or degeneration of the spiral are possible. In this case, if all other possible malfunctions have been ruled out, the HaloLight heater should be removed and replaced.
The appearance of the hob burners without glass-ceramic coating
It happens that the burner turns on, but after working for a while, it turns off ahead of schedule. Heating element malfunction may be due to a malfunction temperature sensor installed on the burner. In order not to change the entire expensive burner, you need to disassemble the sensor with your own hands, clean or bend its contacts, as shown in the video:
VIDEO To carry out diagnostics and repair of hobs, you will have to dismantle the equipment from the countertop, disconnect the power terminals and disassemble the case. It must be remembered that the glass-ceramic coating is vulnerable to point impacts and loads. Therefore, when turning the hob over, it is necessary to avoid getting small objects under the surface so that the weight of the body is not applied to one point.
Mandatory neatness in the workplace when repairing the hob
It goes without saying that bumps, scratches and careless attitude should be avoided. You should carefully study the fastening mechanisms of the equipment - these can be bolted connections, screws or latches. Some elements - for example, an electronic board, can be additionally fixed with glue or adhesive tape. When disassembling one or another model of the hob, you should first study the articles, images, videos available on the Internet.
Experienced craftsmen always check the physical strength of the terminal connections (with the voltage removed) - very often it is poor contact that is the reason that some burner does not turn on. If a faulty burner is detected using a multimeter, or a breakdown in the electronic board is detected, then it can be turned off with your own hands, without the help of a soldering iron, and taken to a workshop where you will need skills in working with a soldering iron and the ability to work with radio components to replace radio elements or relays.
VIDEO
VIDEO Features of the operation of induction heaters can very often be interpreted as a breakdown - the command is given, but the burner does not turn on, there is no characteristic glow, and heating does not occur. The fact is that the metal of the utensil and the burner coil form a single oscillatory circuit, due to which high-frequency oscillations arise that induce currents in metal kitchen utensils.
VIDEO As mentioned above, the physical processes and the principle of heating using induction are described in detail in a previous article on induction boilers - you should read this material in order to have an understanding of the operation of such equipment. In the case of hobs, induction heating is used to heat dishes, but the principle remains the same.
The working surface of the induction heater does not burn immediately after switching off
Repair of induction hobs requires an understanding of the high frequency generator and self-oscillatory processes occurring in the electronic circuit. The power switches (transistors), diodes and high-voltage capacitors that are part of the circuit are most susceptible to breakdowns. Such transistors are often field-effect (MOSFET), and are not called bipolar semiconductor devices, but their failure can be determined.
VIDEO As shown in the video, masters in service centers can determine malfunctions in electronic circuits, relying on experience, having equipment and a large supply of various element base, in order to carry out repairs by replacing failed elements. Surface diagnostics of the main components is carried out by a breakdown test method.
VIDEO VIDEO
What do you need for daily cooking? High temperature and the ability to control the heat source. As it turned out, there are not so many types of home “hearth”.
kerosene burner - 5 decades ago was the main element in any kitchen;
gas stove - by far the most massive "hearth";
electric stove - can be a separate element or a built-in component of the kitchen.
Let's consider the last option in more detail. When visiting the kitchen was an exclusively utilitarian affair (that is, the hostess was only interested in the cooking process), no one thought about the appearance of the electric stove.
Accordingly, from a technical point of view, it was a very primitive device:
frame;
heating element (spiral or heating element in its own case);
thermostat (not present in every model);
mechanical heating regulator (coil resistance switch).
It was possible to repair such a stove with a screwdriver and pliers in hand. Even the heating coil was easily made by hand: nichrome wire was wound around an ordinary pencil. More advanced craftsmen used an electric drill and a wooden mandrel. The steel rod was inserted into the cartridge, and the winding process was much faster.
Then fashionable trends of modern design came to the kitchen, and simple electric stoves no longer fit into kitchen corners and furniture sets. There were hobs that are built into the countertop.
Such household appliances are not only beautiful, they are distinguished by advanced functionality. The heating element is controlled by electronic controllers, there are various security systems. Most products are equipped with touch control panels; you will not find a mechanical handle even in economy class models. To repair a modern hob with your own hands, you must have basic knowledge of electronics.
The usual spiral in ceramic insulator holders has not been used for a long time. Instead, 3 types of electric heaters are used, both direct and indirect effects:
Having dealt with the design of the heaters, you can repair your own hob.
If one of the burners does not work, this can be experienced. But the breakdown of the entire plate is already a problem. You can take the equipment to the workshop, but in addition to the cost of spare parts, you will be charged for the work performed. If you know how to hold a soldering iron in your hands, and have at least a multimeter, you can repair the hob yourself.
Failure of heating elements: for spiral or halogen burners, this is more of a mechanical than electrical problem, parts are quite repairable. In an extreme case (for example, a halogen heater), a simple replacement. The induction emitter (winding) does not break in principle, the problem may be in the electronics.
Failure of switching elements or conductors. These can be relays, contacts, thyristor keys. They are not the most difficult elements to repair.
Electronic circuits: generator, transformer, controllers, control unit. Without a deep knowledge of electronics, it will not be possible to repair these elements. In the best case, you can dismantle the faulty element and install a new one.
Before starting a complex repair, try to diagnose "problems" that can be fixed without dismantling the structure.
For example, check the power supply from the incoming circuit breaker, before connecting the power cable directly from the panel (including the socket, if any). The presence of power is checked with a multimeter on the contact block of the plate.
If the control panel does not work, check that it is dry (if there are movable keys) and clean (in the touch unit). Often a layer of dried spray simply prevents the touch buttons from "feeling" your fingers.
Most often, panels built into the kitchen worktop are used. The electrical appliance has an independent housing with a decorative plane, under which the heating elements are located. Carefully remove the panel and lay it face down on a flat surface. Before starting disassembly, it is recommended to disconnect the power wires. It will not be superfluous to recall that the wiring must be de-energized in advance.
After carefully dismantling the cover, we get full access to the "internal organs" of the panel. Any design has a similar layout: all electrical elements are located in the so-called working "trough" without separating barriers. The illustration shows a variant where "HiLight" type heaters are installed on all burners.
Already at this stage, it is possible to visually diagnose the integrity of the wiring and spiral (tape) heaters. All blocks and modules are connected using connectors or contact terminals. When localizing a malfunction, you can easily remove the assembly for replacement or a more detailed check.
For example, you can remove the heater in an insulating housing, apply power to it, and check its operation using the instrument.
Troubleshooting is done from simple to complex. After the fuse, we check the wiring, and the performance of the heating elements. Control over the on/off of the heating filament is carried out using PWM (pulse width modulation). Don't let that bother you. All the same, the power supply is supplied by conventional relays, which are checked with a multimeter.
A burnt-out spiral (tape) usually changes entirely; this is not the most expensive element. As a temporary measure, a mechanical connection can be made (rivet or screw for the tape, and connection with a screw terminal for the coil). This will allow for some time to return the operability of the plate. Such a “splice” will live for several days, so buy a new spare part as soon as possible.
Power relays cannot be restored, definitely - replacement.
The same applies to halogen heaters. Thermal elements are not repaired (in fact, this is an electric lamp), they are replaced with new ones.
As for the burnt wiring, you should select a wire with similar characteristics, make the entire bundle, and replace it using limit switches.
Contact groups before reassembly are checked for strength and absence of thermal damage, cleaned and reassembled.
If, after checking, it turned out that all power conductors and elements (including heaters) are in order, the electronics remain. Self-repair is possible only with specialized skills and a detailed electrical circuit.
If you know for sure that it is the electronic module that does not work, and there is no way to professionally diagnose it, you can take this particular unit to a branded workshop. It will be checked (for a small fee) at the stand, or in a similar hob model. You can install a repaired or new unit in place yourself.
Some masters restore the functionality of the hob by changing the control scheme. For example, you can power the heating elements from a homemade manual control unit that is placed outside the main body. If the cost of restoring standard modules is too high, and the stove heats up properly when connected directly, this method has the right to life.
Repair of induction hobs is only possible for experienced electricians. Without knowledge of the material, with a simple multimeter and pliers, the operation is doomed to failure. At the same time, many problems are not malfunctions at all: a common violation of the operating mode.
The induction hob either does not turn on at all, or the power disappears immediately after the start of work. This may be a protective function: if you remove the dishes from the heating surface, or the size does not match the diameter of the burner, the automation blocks the work. The same applies to aluminum or copper cookware.
The same problem (incorrect cookware) can lead to the fact that the induction hob does not work at full capacity.
Independent turning on of the heater may be due to contamination of the stove, or the presence of a massive steel (cast iron) object next to it.
Real faults that are not associated with a violation of the operating mode appear in the circuit of the inductive field generator. As we have already noted, the winding fails extremely rarely.
Typical diagram in the illustration:
In fact, there are no space technologies here. The transformer converts the supply voltage, and the generator creates an increased frequency of oscillations of the electromagnetic field. After a visual inspection (for clearly “burned out” radio elements), the generator is checked using a home oscilloscope. If you have such a device, it makes no sense to explain the principle of checking the inductance generator, your level is sufficient for repair.
If you do not have enough experience, you will have to contact the masters. In any case, repairing a single unit is not as expensive as buying a new panel.
With the exception of a minimal percentage of real factory failures, most breakdowns occur due to violations of the connection and operation mode.
unstable mains voltage disables electronics;
the use of dishes that do not correspond to the dimensions of the heating surface leads to local overheating;
impacts, spilled liquid on a hot surface form cracks, chips, through which moisture penetrates into the body.
But still, the main reason for equipment failure is ignoring the requirements of the instructions.
VIDEO
First, let's talk about how to repair an electric hob and what kind of malfunctions this stove option can have.Most often, owners are faced with a situation where the hob does not work or one of the burners does not heat up when the power is connected.
In this case, the repair comes down to the fact that you need to perform the following steps:
Check the voltage in the outlet, because. it is possible that this particular electrical point has failed, as a result of which there is no power.
Carefully inspect the cord and plug for mechanical damage. Sometimes this is where the repair ends - you just need to replace the electrical plug or cord.
Dismantle the hob from the countertop by disconnecting all wires and unscrewing the mounting strips.
Using a multimeter, check the thermal fuse (pictured below) and the transformer. If there is no resistance or it differs from the nominal, it is necessary to replace the circuit elements with new ones.
Check all wire connections (on the control unit, switches, thermostat, burners) and make sure that there is no banal open circuit. First, try to visually find the fault, and then ring all sections of the circuit according to the diagram with a multimeter.
Often, finding a breakdown of an electric hob with your own hands is not difficult if you know how to handle a multimeter. In the absence of this device, you can use an indicator screwdriver, which will show the presence of voltage in a certain section of the circuit.
In addition, I would like to tell you why the hob may stop working so that you know the cause of the malfunctions and how to repair each. So, among the main breakdowns, the most common are the following:
We immediately recommend watching a visual video instruction that shows how to properly repair an electrical surface:
VIDEO If your induction hob does not work, there may also be several reasons for the malfunction. To your attention is an overview of the main malfunctions and methods of repair on your own:
Instructions for repairing the induction cooker are provided on the video:
VIDEO Well, the last option for equipment that can fail is a gas stove. If your gas hob does not work, there are not many reasons for malfunctions. Usually problems arise with the piezoelectric element and the nozzle from which gas is supplied.
So, to your attention the causes of breakdowns and how to repair the hob with your own hands:
The piezo is bad. In this case, you need to check the electric ignition of the burner for blockages. If the ignition is really clogged, wash it and after washing, wipe it thoroughly with a dry cloth.
There is no gas. First check if the tap on the gas pipe itself is not closed. After that, get to the nozzle and check if it is clean. The reason why the gas may stop flowing or flow weakly is most often the contamination of the nozzle with fat or food. Repairing such a malfunction is not difficult, most importantly, after washing, carefully wipe the water with a dry cloth.
That's all the main malfunctions of the gas hob. Sometimes incorrect operation can be caused by improper installation of kitchen appliances. We recommend that you familiarize yourself with how to properly connect an electric hob with your own hands!
VIDEO In addition, it should be noted that most standard breakdowns can be displayed as a code on the display, while an intermittent signal sounds in addition. This code is the name of the error that can be found in the attached instructions.To repair here or another malfunction due to an existing error, you can find it on thematic forums and read the reviews of those who have already encountered this problem and may know why the equipment is beeping.
Finally, I would like to summarize that most often the electric hob does not work due to a fuse failure or a broken contact. Least of all, the control unit breaks down, which is already difficult to repair on your own. We hope that now you know why this technique breaks down and what to do to repair it yourself!
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