VIDEO
This article will focus on repairing touch-sensitive hobs. Unfortunately, in most cases, it is not always possible to repair them with your own hands. However, first things first.
In case you have mechanical control, which is usually the case for dependent panels or for stationary electric stoves, then you can read about faults here. Everything else I will divide into two parts: what happens and what cannot be repaired with my own hands.
If the touch control works, you can change the power, turn on and off the hotplate, but at the same time the hotplate either constantly works, and it starts working immediately as soon as you turn on the hob, or it does not work, regardless of the mode that you set through the sensor, then malfunctions of two types can be distinguished:
If the hotplate heats up immediately when the hob is turned on and does not respond to changes in modes, then it is most likely that you have a sticking of the relay contacts, which is responsible for this hotplate. Here you need to check the relay contacts. Relays usually have two pairs of contacts. One pair comes with food. When power is applied, the coil draws in the core, which closes the contacts. The second pair is just the contacts that the relay controls. The most likely reason is the welding of the contacts. In principle, if you know how to hold a soldering iron in your hands, then you can try to replace the relay with your own hands. You need to check two things: whether the power supply to the relay coil is turned off and whether the relay contacts open. If the coil power appears immediately when the panel is turned on, then you will have to go to a repair shop. If the coil power appears when you turn on the hotplate with the touch panel, then you need to check the control contacts. But in this case, as a rule, they are always closed.If the problem is in the relay, then in any case, a replacement will be required.
If the relay is working properly, but the burner does not work, while the power is supplied to the relay, and the power contacts are closed, then we read here how to determine the malfunction of the burner.
If this is a new panel that you installed yourself, or, suddenly, half of the panel stops working, or the sensor works, but the burners do not turn on, then look at the terminal block. In touch panels, the terminals in the block can be distributed in this way: one terminal is responsible for powering the electronics, the other two power the burners. That is, the situation when the electronics is working, the touch panel shows that the power of the burners is regulated, but the burners themselves do not work at the same time.
There may be two repairable problems and one conditionally repairable problem.
The sensor is triggered with some delay. Some manufacturers have deliberately made this delay to prevent accidental pressing. That is, in order for the sensor to trigger, you need to put your finger in the required area and wait a little (usually up to two seconds), after which the sensors will react quickly for some time (sometimes any sensor triggering occurs with a delay - the triggering algorithm is determined by the manufacturer).
Child lock might be worth it. Read the instructions for your panel about the lock or child protection mode.
It is possible that the glass above the touch panel or on the back side is somehow dirty. If wiping the glass does not help, then you will have to contact the service center.
Some hobs have a heating function. Usually, in this case, the display does not show 0, but the crockery icon | _ | (like half zero). In this case, the hotplate does not turn off completely, but goes into heating mode. Water, for example, will not boil in this mode, but will remain very hot until you turn off the hotplate or an automatic shutdown occurs, if provided by the manufacturer.
This is most likely not a malfunction. The cooking temperature in touch-sensitive hobs is adjusted by turning it on and off. The more the power is set, the less frequent shutdowns occur and the longer the turn-on period. At maximum setting, the hotplate works without switching off, except in case of overheating of the hotplate. In this case, the temperature sensor will be triggered. As soon as the hotplate cools down, the temperature sensor is triggered and the hotplate turns on again.
The malfunction can be conditionally removable and not. I wrote about this malfunction here. In this case, replacing the temperature sensor will help.
There may be a malfunction of another kind. The problem may lie in the electronics, then you will have to go to the workshop.
This is where the conditionally repaired malfunctions end, so we turn to the malfunctions that you are unlikely to cope with on your own. Therefore, to eliminate them, you will have to contact a specialized workshop. I do not particularly recommend contacting service centers. High-class specialists rarely sit in them, and often you overpay for some services. Therefore, it is better to contact private companies. Repair can be much cheaper, but you need to carefully approach the choice of the company.
This usually happens with panels that are many years old. This is largely due to electrolytic capacitors, which lose their capacity over time. In theory, you can try to replace them. In practice, such a replacement helps only 50%. In this case, especially if the panels are more than 10 years old, it makes sense to think about buying a new one.
This includes all other faults that have not been considered.
Summarize. The malfunctions of analog elements, that is, non-electronic ones, can be considered conditionally removable.In this case, if you have the necessary skills, you can try to fix the problem yourself. When it comes to electronics, it is unlikely that someone will advise you on the Internet, because when it comes to electronics, it is not always possible to immediately determine the cause, even when the master directly examines the panel. And it's even more difficult to explain what a diode, transistor and other electronic components look like.
Having understood the functionality and interaction of components, having studied the methods for determining common malfunctions, understanding what and thanks to what turns on, you can, without resorting to the services of masters, carry out a simple repair of the hob with your own hands.
All modern hobs work according to the same principle - the user acts on the control sensors, thereby turning on the power relays that switch large currents in the heating elements.
Therefore, first you need to localize the breakdown, that is, identify the defective node. It is assumed that the cable, connection terminals, fuse, voltage presence is checked, and command set errors are excluded.
Cooking surfaces (panels) are electric heating kitchen appliances (electric stoves) that have glass-ceramic outer cover. Glass-ceramic has great strength, allowing it to withstand a significant weight of the cookware, and has good thermal conductivity.
The attractive appearance, which some manufacturers (for example, Hansa) complement with artistic decorations, allows the stylish hob to successfully fit into the modern kitchen design.
Artistic hob design
Heating elements hidden under the glass-ceramic surface are of several types:
Spiral, working like conventional heating elements;
Corrugated tapes (modified filaments);
Halogen infrared lamps (HaloLight technology);
Induction coils that only heat the cookware material.
Various designs of thermoelectric burners
Burners of the first three types convert electric current into heat according to the Joule-Lenz law in the same way as an incandescent filament in a conventional light bulb or a spiral in a conventional electric heating element is heated. The principle of heating using induction is described in detail in the article on induction boilers. Do-it-yourself repair of induction hobs will be discussed below.
Thermoelectric heaters have a heat-releasing corrugation or spiral laid in a heat-resistant material, connection terminals, as well as heating sensors presented in the form of a bimetallic plate located on the line of the radius or diameter of the burner. Expanding, the bimetallic plate acts on the contacts, closing or opening them.
Hob burner device
Depending on the design of the hob, the temperature sensor contacts can be power contacts (acting like a thermostat), or signal contacts included in the electronic control circuit. Malfunctioning sensors (thermostats) are a common reason that the hob does not turn on.
In general, repairing hobs differs little from repairing electric stoves, which is described in detail in one of the articles of this resource. The main visual difference is the presence of a glass-ceramic surface and the type of heaters, the spirals of which are visible through the transparent surface. Also a characteristic distinguishing feature is sensory electronic unit and the complete absence of the usual control levers.
Hob touch control unit
Therefore, the greatest difficulty in the repair of electric hobs is the electronic touch control unit, which is also a display. To repair it with your own hands, you will need knowledge in radio engineering and special equipment.
But otherwise, the hob is not much different from an electric stove - the heating elements are switched on by power relays, controlled by an electronic control board, which receives signals from the sensor.
But at first, even without disassembling the hob body, you can determine the malfunction of the touch display and the electronic control unit. As a rule, the receipt of a command from the user is accompanied by a sound signal and is displayed on the display. If there is no reaction to touch, then it becomes clear that there is a breakdown in the sensor.
Indication of a properly working hob
The sensitivity of the sensor may deteriorate due to severe surface contamination. It should be remembered that the entire glass-ceramic surface of the hob requires careful maintenance and cleaning, otherwise cracks may form from the accumulation of limescale and burning.
Operating a stove with cracked glass ceramics will lead to its further destruction and breakdown, therefore, timely care and cleaning of the hobs is needed, as shown in the video:
VIDEO Electronic board with display elements and control sensors
As you can see from the figure, the electronic board of the control unit has many small parts, including microcircuits, so repairing such a module with your own hands requires deep knowledge of radio engineering. If the malfunction of the sensor control unit is reliably established, then it is better to take this board to a specialized repair shop.
If surface diagnostics have not yielded results (the command turns on, but no heating occurs), you should look for a malfunction in the switching power unit. Some models of hobs can independently diagnose some malfunctions, signaling them using the error codes that appear on the display. You should carefully study the user manual and these codes - this will save time when troubleshooting.
Error codes for some hobs
The power control unit (switching) of the hob consists of relay groups controlled by an electronic sensor unit. When the operating mode is selected, one or more relays are energized, supplying power to the respective heating elements.
Arrows indicate power relays
Even for a novice master, it will be easy to disassemble the panel case with his own hands in order to independently determine the malfunction of a heating element or power relay. For this purpose, you will need a multimeter and skills to work with it. You will also need to determine the type of heating element itself in order to check it correctly (for example, the resistance of the induction coil is close to zero).
More experienced craftsmen often use a different method - they check the voltage supply to the main nodes, moving from the power terminals through the power relays to the heating elements. The power relay contacts may burn due to frequent switching on, and checking the presence of voltage at the input terminals of the burner will determine if the relay has been activated.
Measuring the supply voltage of a cooking zone
It should be remembered that many elements inside the enclosure carry life-threatening voltages. Working under stress requires focus, mindfulness and sober thinking.
If the terminals of the hotplate are normal supply voltage, you can check the performance of the heating element visually - the filament should be warmed up.But, if the burner turns on, but does not heat up to the required temperature, you need to measure the flowing current. The easiest way to do this without breaking the circuit is with a multimeter equipped with a clamp meter.
The use of a clamp meter to check the current in the power circuits of the hob
Knowing the maximum power of the burner and the supply voltage, you can calculate the rated current according to Ohm's law. In the case of heating elements that work like a heating element, a decrease in the current and heating temperature may be associated with malfunctions in the electronic control unit, thermostatic elements or in the power relays.
If the halogen burner does not heat well, then an internal chemical change in the composition of the gas in the heating element or degeneration of the spiral is possible. In this case, if all other possible malfunctions have been ruled out, the HaloLight Heater should be removed and replaced.
The appearance of the hob burners without glass-ceramic coating
It happens that the burner turns on, but after working for some time, it turns off ahead of time. Improper operation of the heating element may be due to a malfunction temperature sensor installed on the hotplate. In order not to change the entire expensive burner, you need to disassemble the sensor with your own hands, clean or bend its contacts, as shown in the video:
VIDEO To diagnose and repair the hobs, you will have to dismantle the equipment from the countertop, disconnect the power terminals and disassemble the case. It must be remembered that the glass-ceramic coating is vulnerable to point impacts and loads. Therefore, when turning the hob over, avoid small objects falling under the surface so that the weight of the cabinet is not applied to one point.
Mandatory care in the workplace when repairing a hob
It goes without saying that bumps, scratches and carelessness should be avoided. You should carefully examine the hardware fastening mechanisms - these can be bolted connections, screws, or latches. Some elements, for example, an electronic board, can be additionally fixed with glue or adhesive tape. When disassembling a particular model of the hob, you should first study the articles, images, videos available on the Internet.
Experienced craftsmen always check the physical strength of the terminal connections (with the voltage removed) - very often it is poor contact that is the reason that some burner does not turn on. If a faulty burner is detected with a multimeter, or a breakdown in the electronic board is detected, then it can be turned off with one hand alone, without the aid of a soldering iron, and taken to a workshop, where, to replace radioelements or relays, you will need skills in working with a soldering iron and the ability to work with radio components.
VIDEO
VIDEO The peculiarities of the operation of induction heaters can very often be interpreted as a breakdown - the command is given, but the burner does not turn on, there is no characteristic glow, and heating does not occur. The fact is that the metal of the cookware and the coil of the burner form a single oscillatory circuit, due to which high-frequency oscillations arise that induce currents in the metal kitchen utensils.
VIDEO As mentioned above, the physical processes and the principle of heating using induction are described in detail in the previous article on induction boilers - you should familiarize yourself with this material in order to have an understanding of the operation of such equipment. In the case of hobs, induction heating is used to heat cookware, but the principle remains the same.
The working surface of the induction heater does not burn immediately after switching off
Repairing induction hobs requires an understanding of the high frequency generator and the self-oscillating processes that occur in the electronic circuit. The most susceptible to breakdowns are power switches (transistors), diodes and high-voltage capacitors that are part of the circuit. Transistors like these are often MOSFETs, and are not called bipolar semiconductors, but they can be detected if they are out of order.
VIDEO As shown in the video, technicians in service centers can determine faults in electronic circuits, relying on experience, having available equipment and a large stock of various element base in order to carry out repairs by replacing defective elements. Surface diagnostics of the main components is carried out by the breakdown test method.
VIDEO VIDEO
What do you need for daily food preparation? High temperature and the ability to control the heat source. As it turned out, there are not so many types of home "hearth".
a kerosene burner - 5 decades ago it was a staple in any kitchen;
a gas stove is by far the most widespread "hearth";
electric stove - can be a separate element or an integrated component of the kitchen.
Let's consider the last option in more detail. When visiting the kitchen was an exclusively utilitarian affair (that is, the hostess was only interested in the cooking process), no one thought about the appearance of the electric stove.
Accordingly, from a technical point of view, it was a very primitive apparatus:
frame;
heating element (spiral or heating element in its own case);
thermostat (not present in every model);
mechanical heating regulator (spiral resistance switch).
It was possible to repair such a plate with a screwdriver and pliers in hand. Even the heating coil was easily made by hand: a nichrome wire was wound on a regular pencil. More advanced craftsmen used an electric drill and a wooden frame. The steel bar was inserted into the chuck and the winding process was much faster.
Then fashion trends of modern design came to the kitchen, and simple electric stoves no longer fit into kitchen corners and furniture sets. There are hobs that are built into the worktop.
Such household appliances are not only beautiful, they have extended functionality. The heating element is controlled by electronic controllers, and there are various security systems. Most of the products are equipped with touch control panels; a mechanical handle is not found even in economy class models. To repair a modern hob with your own hands, you must have basic knowledge of electronics.
The conventional spiral in ceramic insulator holders has long been discontinued. Instead, 3 types of electric heaters are used, both direct and indirect:
Having figured out the design of the heaters, you can repair your own hob.
If one of the burners does not work, you can survive. But the breakdown of the entire plate is already a problem. You can take the equipment to the workshop, but in addition to the cost of spare parts, you will be charged money for the work performed. If you know how to hold a soldering iron in your hands, and have at least a multimeter, you can repair the hob yourself.
Breakage of heating elements: for spiral or halogen burners, this is more a mechanical than an electrical problem, the parts are quite repairable. As a last resort (eg halogen heater) simple replacement. The induction emitter (winding) does not break in principle, the problem may be in the electronics.
Failure of switching elements or conductors. These can be relays, contacts, thyristor switches. They are not the most difficult elements to repair.
Electronic circuits: generator, transformer, controllers, control unit. Without a deep knowledge of electronics, repairing these elements will not work. In the best case, you can dismantle the faulty element and install a new one.
Before starting a complex repair, try to diagnose "problems" that can be eliminated without disassembling the structure.
For example, check the power supply from the incoming circuit breaker, before connecting the direct power cable from the panel (including the outlet, if present). The presence of power is checked with a multimeter on the terminal block of the plate.
If the control panel does not work, check its dryness (if there are movable keys) and cleanliness (in the sensor unit). Oftentimes, a layer of dried spray just prevents the touch buttons from "feeling" your fingers.
Panels that are built into the kitchen worktop are most often used. The appliance has an independent body with a decorative plane, under which the heating elements are located. Carefully take out the panel and place it face down on a flat surface. It is recommended to disconnect the supply wires before starting disassembly. It will not be superfluous to remind you that the wiring must be de-energized in advance.
After carefully dismantling the cover, we get full access to the "internal organs" of the panel. Any design has a similar layout: all electrical elements are located in a so-called working "trough" without separating barriers. The illustration shows a variant where HiLight heaters are installed on all burners.
Already at this stage, it is possible to visually diagnose the integrity of the wiring and spiral (tape) heaters. All blocks and modules are connected using connectors or contact terminals. When the fault is localized, you can easily remove the assembly for replacement or a more detailed check.
For example, you can remove a heater in an insulating housing, apply power to it, and check its functionality with the instrument.
Fault diagnostics is carried out from simple to complex. After the fuse, we check the wiring and the performance of the heating elements. The on-off control of the heating filament is carried out using PWM (pulse width modulation). Don't let this confuse you. All the same, the power supply is supplied by ordinary relays, which are checked with a multimeter.
A burnt-out spiral (tape) is usually replaced entirely; this is not the most expensive element. As a temporary measure, a mechanical connection can be made (rivet or screw for the tape, and the connection with a screw terminal for the spiral). This will allow the stove to work again for some time. Such a "splice" will live for several days, so buy a new spare part in the very near future.
Power relays cannot be restored, definitely - replacement.
The same applies to halogen heaters. Thermal elements are not repaired (in fact, it is an electric lamp), they are replaced with new ones.
As for the burnt wiring, you should pick up a wire with similar characteristics, make the whole harness, and replace it using end switches.
Contact groups are checked for strength and thermal damage before reassembly, cleaned and reassembled.
If after checking it turned out that all power conductors and elements (including heaters) are in order, the electronics remain. Self-repair is possible only if you have specialized skills and a detailed electrical diagram.
If you know for sure that it is the electronic module that does not work, and there is no way to professionally diagnose it, you can take this particular unit to the brand workshop. It will be checked (for a small fee) at the stand, or in a similar model of the hob. You can install a repaired or new unit in place yourself.
Some craftsmen restore the hob to work by changing the control scheme. For example, you can power the heating elements from a homemade manual control unit outside the main body. If the cost of restoring standard modules is too high, and the stove heats up properly with a direct connection, this method has the right to life.
Only experienced electricians can repair induction hobs. Without knowledge of the material, with a simple multimeter and pliers, the operation is doomed to failure. At the same time, many problems are not malfunctions at all: a common violation of the operating mode.
The induction hotplate either does not turn on at all, or the power is lost immediately after starting work. This can be a protective function: if you remove the dishes from the heating plane, or the size does not correspond to the diameter of the hotplate, the automation will block the operation. The same applies to aluminum or copper cookware.
The same problem (wrong cookware) can lead to the induction hob not working at full capacity.
Self-switching on of the heater may be due to contamination of the plate, or the presence of a massive steel (cast-iron) object next to it.
Real malfunctions, not related to a violation of the operating mode, manifest themselves in the circuit of the inductive field generator. As we have already noted, the winding fails very rarely.
Typical diagram in the illustration:
In fact, there is no space technology here. The transformer converts the supply voltage, and the generator creates an increased frequency of oscillations of the electromagnetic field. After a visual inspection (for clearly "burnt" radioelements), the generator is checked using a home oscilloscope. If you have such a device, there is no point in explaining the principle of checking the inductor generator, your level is sufficient for repair.
If you do not have enough experience, you will have to contact the masters. In any case, repairing a single unit is not as expensive as buying a new panel.
With the exception of a minimum percentage of real factory faults, most failures occur due to a violation of the connection and operation mode.
unstable mains voltage damages the electronics;
the use of dishes that do not correspond to the dimensions of the heating surface leads to local overheating;
impacts, spilled liquid on a hot surface form cracks, chips through which moisture penetrates into the case.
But still, the main reason for equipment failure is ignoring the requirements of the instructions.
VIDEO
First, let's talk about how to repair an electric hob and what kind of malfunctions this version of the stove may have.Most often, owners are faced with a situation when the hob does not work or one of the burners does not heat up when the power is connected.
In this case, the repair is reduced to the fact that you need to perform the following steps:
Check the voltage at the outlet, because perhaps it was this electrical point that was out of order, as a result of which there is no power.
Carefully inspect the cord and plug for mechanical damage. Sometimes this is where the repair ends - you just need to replace the electrical plug or cord.
Remove the hob from the worktop by disconnecting all wires and unscrewing the fastening strips.
Use a multimeter to check the thermal fuse (pictured below) and the transformer. If there is no resistance or differs from the nominal, you need to replace the circuit elements with new ones.
Check all wire connections (on the control unit, switches, thermostat, burners) and make sure that there is no trivial open circuit. First, try to visually find the fault, and then use a multimeter to ring all sections of the circuit according to the diagram.
Often, finding a breakdown of an electric hob with your own hands is not difficult if you know how to handle a multimeter. In the absence of this device, you can use an indicator screwdriver, which will show the presence of voltage in a certain section of the circuit.
In addition, I would like to tell you why the hob may stop working, so that you know the cause of the malfunctions and how to repair each. So, among the main breakdowns, the most common are the following:
We immediately recommend watching a visual video instruction, which shows how to properly repair an electrical surface:
VIDEO If your induction hob does not work, there may also be several reasons for the malfunction. For your attention, an overview of the main faults and methods of repair on your own:
Repair instructions for an induction cooker are provided in the video:
VIDEO Well, the last option for equipment that can fail is a gas stove. If your gas hob does not work, there are not many reasons for malfunctions. Usually problems arise with the piezoelectric element and the nozzle from which the gas is supplied.
So, to your attention, the causes of breakdowns and how to repair the hob with your own hands:
Pieza ignites poorly. In this case, check the electric ignition of the burner for blockages. If the ignition is really clogged, wash it and wipe it thoroughly with a dry cloth after washing.
Gas does not flow. First check to see if the tap on the gas pipe itself is closed. After that, get to the nozzle and check if it is clean. The reason why the gas can stop flowing or is supplied poorly is most often the contamination of the nozzle with grease or food. Repairing such a malfunction will not be difficult, the main thing is, after washing, thoroughly wipe off the water with a dry cloth.
These are all the main malfunctions of a gas hob. Sometimes incorrect operation can be caused by improper installation of kitchen appliances. We recommend that you familiarize yourself with how to properly connect an electric hob with your own hands!
VIDEO In addition, it should be noted that most standard failures can be indicated by a code on the display, while an intermittent signal sounds in addition. This code is the name of the error, which can be found in the attached instructions.To repair here or another malfunction on an existing error, you can find it on the thematic forums and read the reviews of those who have already encountered this problem and, perhaps, know why the equipment beeps.
Finally, I would like to summarize that most often the electric hob does not work due to a fuse failure or a broken contact. The least often the control unit breaks down, which is already difficult to repair yourself. We hope that now you know why this technique breaks down and what to do for DIY repair!
Related materials:
VIDEO
VIDEO
Video (click to play).
VIDEO 
