Do-it-yourself repair of ball-bearing turbines

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of ball-bearing turbines from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The purpose of writing this article is to acquaint owners, present or future, with ball bearing technology (ballbearing) in turbochargers.

Sleeve turbine:

As you know, in classic sleeved turbines, one of the most loaded parts is the thrust bearing.

It is a bronze plate to which oil for lubrication is supplied and stops or a bobbin, as they call it, which stand on the shaft and, leaning on this plate, keep the shaft from axial movement.

This is necessary so that the impellers of the turbine and compressor do not rub against the turbine housings and do not wear out. With an increase in boost, the turbine shaft begins to experience axial pressure towards the turbine part, respectively, the load on the bearing plate and the stops increase, which at some point cease to withstand the load and begin to wear out.

So the turbine has axial play, which is wear. Over time, wear progresses and at some point the turbine impeller touches the housing blades, such a turbine has only a few days to live.

Any wear is uneven, the shaft is unbalanced, vibration appears and the turbine literally falls apart.

There is another drawback to the bushed turbine, which is the friction inside the turbine cartridge, which results in a later spin-up and more lag.

It is customary to say that the turbine on the bushings is less responsive (spins up more slowly) than the ball one. Another disadvantage of sleeve turbochargers is the pickiness to the quality and purity of the oil, the tendency to coke the oil on the shaft.

Video (click to play).

Another serious disadvantage that little is known about is the large amount of oil needed to create an oil wedge on plain bearings. A large amount of oil tends to leak not into the drain or sump of the engine, but through the shaft seals into the compressor or into the turbine part to the exhaust. This happens from wear and coking of the sealing rings on the turbine shaft.

Almost every sleeved turbine that fell into my hands had oil leaks towards the compressor and turbine.

Now consider the design of turbines on ball bearing technology:

In the 1990s, Garrett developed an alternative to its "T" series of turbochargers. By that time, the order of outdated, having an old-fashioned design of the turbine and compressor parts. And also the main disadvantage is the large masses of rotating parts.

It was decided to completely develop a turbine on an angular contact bearing, having completely new turbine and compressor wheels.

The main part of such a turbocharger is a bearing:

It is designed in such a way that there is no longer a need for a thrust bearing, and therefore the rotating masses are reduced and the less friction, the sooner the boost is reached.

The bearing itself consists of inner and outer races of the separator and the bodies of rotation of the balls themselves.

As can be seen from the figure, the bearing is not simple, but thrust, that is, when axial loads are applied, the inner race does not allow the shaft to move to the side and touch the housing, grease is also supplied to the bearing through special holes

A new compressor (photo) and turbine wheel with a more open blade profile was specially developed for this turbocharger (GT X series, and later GTX R series)

Thanks to this, the gases began to flow more freely, the back pressure dropped and it was possible to reduce the size of the turbine part at the same power.

All this, together with a redesigned compressor, allowed us to increase productivity by 15%, as well as make the response faster.

This is felt as a decrease in the reaction time to the gas pedal and an increase in torque in the zone of low crankshaft speeds. Many drivers who drive such vehicles have admired the excellent throttle response and the fast, almost instantaneous increase in power.

Another plus of such turbines is that the oil is supplied to the cartridge through a special jet (restrictor) with a selected section, due to which the oil is supplied exactly as needed to lubricate the bearing.

I think it’s not worth saying that such turbines practically do not let oil through.

However, it was not without a fly in the ointment - the bearing has a number of design flaws. (Consciously or not - we will omit this, now it's not about that).

Bearing cages are literally made of plastic. The author knows cases when they melted with an increase in EGT (exhaust temperature). The consequences are sad - balls without support begin to fall out of the tracks, the shaft begins to hang out, cling to the impeller housing, the seals are worn off and the entire turbine becomes unusable.

Also, separators fall apart from banal pops into the muffler when fuel is overflowed, and also simply from old age.

In general, the assembly turned out to be quite reliable (withstands high boosts) and unreliable (there is a chance of damage to the plastic separator and failure of the turbine).

Although designs from other manufacturers are known, where there are no such shortcomings. The clips are made of bronze, and there is a spacer spring, the purpose of which is to burst the clips, thereby choosing the backlash from this unit. Such a node is quite reliable in itself, but the turbine in which it is installed has a number of other disadvantages, which will be discussed in a separate article.

The authors of this project have accumulated extensive experience in studying the design and increasing the service life of ball bearing turbines.

For many car enthusiasts who love power and speed, the issue of buying a car with a turbocharged engine is very important.

In turn, the task of the turbocharger is to supply more air to the engine cylinders and, as a result, increase the power of the latter.

The only drawback of such a useful element is frequent failure, so every motorist should be able to make at least minimal turbine repairs.

Structurally, a turbocharger is a very simple mechanism that consists of several main elements:

  1. The common body of the node and the snail;
  2. Plain bearing;
  3. thrust bearing;
  4. Distance and thrust sleeve.

The turbine housing is made of aluminum alloy, and the shaft is made of steel.

Therefore, in the event of failure of these elements, the only right decision is only replacement.

Most turbine damage can be easily diagnosed and repaired. At the same time, you can entrust the work to professionals in their field or do everything yourself.

In principle, there is nothing complicated about this (we will consider how to dismantle and repair a turbine in the article).

As the practice of operation shows, in total there are two main causes of breakdowns - poor-quality or untimely maintenance.

If, according to the plan, a technical inspection is carried out, then the turbine will work for a long time and without any complaints from motorists.

So, for today, there are several main signs and reasons for the failure of the turbine:

  • 1. The appearance of blue smoke from the exhaust pipe at the time of the increase in speed and its absence when it reaches the norm. The main reason for such a malfunction is oil entering the combustion chamber due to a leak in the turbine.
  • 2. Black smoke from the exhaust pipe - indicates the combustion of the fuel mixture in the intercooler or injection line.The probable cause is damage or breakdown of the TKR control system (turbocharger).
  • 3. Smoke from the exhaust pipe of white color indicates clogging of the turbine oil drain line. In such a situation, only cleaning can save.
  • 4. Excessive oil consumption up to one liter per thousand kilometers. In this case, you need to pay attention to the turbine and the presence of a leak. In addition, it is advisable to inspect the joints of the pipes.
  • 5. Dynamics of dispersal "blunted". This is a clear symptom of a lack of air in the engine. The reason is a malfunction or breakdown of the TKR control system (turbocharger).
  • 6. The appearance of a whistle on a running engine. The likely cause is an air leak between the motor and the turbine.
  • 7. A strange rattle during turbine operation often indicates a crack or deformation in the assembly housing. In most cases, with such symptoms, TCR does not “live” for a long time, and further repair of the turbine may be ineffective.
  • 8. Increased noise in the operation of the turbine can cause clogging of the oil pipeline, changing the gaps of the rotor and touching the latter on the turbocharger housing.
  • 9. An increase in exhaust emissions or fuel consumption often indicates problems with the air supply to the TKR (turbocharger).

To repair the turbine with your own hands, it must be dismantled.

This is done in the following sequence:

  • 1. Disconnect all pipelines that go to the turbine. In this case, you should be extremely careful not to damage the node itself and the devices adjacent to it.
  • 2. Remove the turbine and compressor volutes. The latter is dismantled without problems, but the turbine volute is often attached very tightly.

Here, dismantling can be done in two ways - using a mallet method or using the snail mounting bolts themselves (by gradually releasing them from all sides).

When performing work, you must be very careful not to damage the turbine wheel.

  • 3. Once the work of dismantling the volutes is completed, you can check for shaft play. If the latter is missing, then the problem is not in the shaft.

Again, a little lateral play is acceptable (but no more than one millimeter).

  • 4. The next step is to remove the compressor wheels. Pliers will come in handy for this job. When dismantling, please note that the compressor shaft in most cases has a left-hand thread.

To dismantle the compressor wheel, a special puller is useful.

  • 5. Next, the sealing inserts are dismantled (they are located in the recesses of the rotor), as well as the thrust bearing (it is mounted on three bolts, so there are no problems with removal).
  • 6. Now you can remove the liners from the end part - they are fastened with a retaining ring (during dismantling, sometimes you have to tinker).

The plain bearings (compressor side) are fixed with a circlip.

7. When performing dismantling work, it is necessary (regardless of the breakdown) to thoroughly rinse and clean the main elements - the cartridge, seals, rings and other components.

Once the dismantling is completed, repairs can be made. For this, a special repair kit should be at hand, where there is everything you need - liners, hardware, seals and rings.

Check the quality of fixation of nominal inserts. If they hang out, then they need to be machined and the shaft balanced.

In this case, it is advisable to clean the liners well and lubricate with engine oil.

The retaining rings located inside the turbine must be installed in the cartridge. At the same time, make sure that they are in their place (in special grooves).

After that, you can mount the turbine liner, after lubricating it with engine oil. The insert is fixed with a retaining ring.

The next step is to install the compressor liner, after which a well-lubricated bushing can be inserted.

Next, put a ring plate on it and tighten it well with bolts (without fanaticism).

Install the dirt plate (secured with a circlip) and oil scraper ring.

It remains only to return the snail to its place. That's all.

This article indicates the general algorithm for disassembling and assembling a turbine. Of course, depending on the type of the latter, this algorithm will be partially changed, but the general course of work will be identical.

Well, if a serious breakdown is detected, then it is better to immediately replace the old turbine with a new one.

In the absence of serious defects, the repair of the turbine takes no more than a few hours. But with the help of improvised tools and material prepared in advance, you can make a very high-quality and budgetary repair.

Installing a turbocharger on a diesel engine increases energy efficiency, torque, power and throttle response of the engine. Long-term operation and untimely maintenance lead to unit failure. If you have locksmith skills and tools, you can repair the turbocharger with your own hands. To do this, you need to study its device and read the repair instructions.

Material content [expand]

The unit consists of three main sections:

  • hot (turbine), working with exhaust gases;
  • compressor room supplying compressed air to the manifold;
  • cartridge (bearing assembly) that transmits torque from the turbine to the compressor impeller.

In the turbine or compressor part there is a control system that controls the action of the bypass valve. The compressor impeller is put on the shaft, which is a continuation of the turbine. Lubrication to the bearings is supplied through oil channels.

Given the not too complicated device and the high cost of the unit, do-it-yourself turbine repair on a diesel engine allows you to save a lot.

The following signs indicate the need for repair:

  • Increased consumption of oil that enters the cylinders. This may be accompanied by the appearance of blue smoke from the exhaust.
  • Loss of power due to air entering through the nozzle seals.
  • Changing the composition of the fuel-air mixture. This is expressed in increased fuel consumption and the appearance of black smoke from the exhaust pipe.
  • Increased turbine noise due to worn cartridge bearings.

If you notice at least one of the signs, it is time to check the operation of the supercharger and repair the turbine yourself on a diesel engine.

Repairing a diesel engine turbine on your own requires tools, spare parts, and advanced locksmith skills. In their absence, it is cheaper to turn to professionals. Assembly in artisanal conditions can lead to the ingress of grains of sand into the unit. As a result, it will eventually fail. If you are confident in your abilities, you can get to work.

Before you repair the turbine, you should prepare a repair kit. You will need the following details:

You will also need the following set of tools:

  • socket and open-end wrenches;
  • screwdrivers;
  • pliers with sliding jaws;
  • curly editing;
  • puller;
  • mallet.

This is enough to restore the turbine with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself repair of a diesel engine turbine for a passenger car or truck begins with its dismantling. To do this, you need to perform the following operations:

  • unscrew the bolts or remove the stoppers that fix the housings of the compressor and turbine assembly;
  • if the knot has become attached, it must be carefully “wakened up” by tapping with a mallet;
  • remove the snail.

First you need to check the cartridge bearings: the longitudinal play is unacceptable, the transverse play is only very small. AND

The compressor retaining ring is removed using pliers with sliding jaws. The reverse side of the shaft is clamped with curly editing.

When disassembling, do not forget about the left-hand thread on the shaft.