I’ll make a reservation right away that I did all the work without any special pullers and devices, so to speak, with folk remedies - with the help of a good hammer at hand. So, what do we need for this Niva repair. Firstly, the key is 13, and secondly, a good cap for 22 and, as mentioned above, a solid hammer.
The first step is to jack up the side of the car where we are going to replace the supports. We remove the front wheel. We unscrew the hub nut and remove the brake disc along with it. Detailed instructions for removing the hub with the disc are described here.
Next, we unscrew the fastening nuts with a ball wrench for 13 on both sides, something like this will look like it is shown in the photo below:
When these connections have been dealt with, you can take the key to 22 and unscrew the lower nut of the VAZ 2121 support.
Now, after that, it is necessary to lower the car, after substituting some kind of support under the lever, and at least a stump, so that the spring compresses. Then we take the outer CV joint to the side so that it does not interfere with the removal of the support and hit the fist with strong hammer blows, after which the ball should pop out of its seat. Approximately everything should happen as I showed in the photo below:
Then you can replace with a new part. The price for it is 250 rubles in most auto parts stores or on the market. The procedure for replacing the upper support is even simpler, so I think it’s not worth painting it in detail.
Unlike the classic VAZ family, the Niva 2121 rarely ends up with an inverted wheel at the side of the road. It's all about a slightly different work of the suspension, which does not receive a critical load in certain operating modes. Although the ball bearings themselves are used in a similar design.
Generations - three. Between themselves, they differ in the geometry of the case:
NPO Belmag is involved as the main supplier for completing the Niva on the conveyor. BZAK, Trek, Kedr and VIS products are also common. The reliability of the components is generally the same. The resource varies from 45 to 90 thousand kilometers. It is difficult to build an unambiguous rating due to the inconsistent quality. At the same time, foreign manufacturers (Lemforder and TRW) cannot compete with domestic companies in this area at all.
Most often, the element fails due to dirt entering the hinge through a torn anther. Mechanical particles in this case play the role of a powerful abrasive. The end result is natural - an increase in gaps and a knock. At extreme degrees of wear, the node is destroyed.
To obtain the maximum amount of information about the state of the lower ball joint, you should create the same conditions as when driving a car. That is why simply raising the car on a lift and shaking the wheels will not bring concrete results.
To remove the Niva 2121 ball joint, raise the car on a jack and dismantle the wheel, clean all elements from dirt with a metal brush or compressed air, unscrew the adjuster
hub nut (use a chisel with the cap installed).
Using a 22mm box wrench, unscrew the nut securing the assembly to the steering knuckle (KK).
Place a stop at the lowest point of the suspension arm (screw, bottle jacks, a block of wood).
Release the ball mount from the lower arm with two 13mm wrenches.
Move the PC away from the lever.
Using a puller, press out the ball joint pin.
If there was no special tool at hand, insert a bar into the space between the upper suspension arm and the rebound buffer bracket, after compressing the spring with a bar or jack and screwing on the support pin nut. Then, with concentrated blows, hit the eye of the PC until you get a result.
Before installing new supports, do not forget to fill it with SRB-4 grease.
VIDEO
Hang and remove the front wheel.
Using a 22 spanner wrench, unscrew the nut securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle.
Install the stop under the lower arm.
Using the “13” wrench, we unscrew the nut of the ball joint bolt to the lower arm, holding the bolt from turning with a wrench of the same dimension.
We unscrew the nuts of two more bolts.
... and take the steering knuckle with a ball joint from the lower arm.
Using a puller, press the ball joint pin out of the steering knuckle hole.
You can also use this puller.
We take the steering knuckle to the side and remove the shank of the outer hinge housing of the drive from the hub.
In the absence of a puller, unscrew (not completely) the nut securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle (photo 1). We compress the spring with a stop installed under the lower arm. We insert the mounting blade with an edge between the end of the lower arm eyelet and the support pressure plate.
By striking with a hammer on the eye of the steering knuckle, we press out the ball joint pin from the fist hole.
Having unscrewed the nut of the support pin and the adjusting nut of the front hub bearings, we take the steering knuckle to the side and remove the stop. We unscrew the nuts of the bolts securing the ball joint to the lower arm (see photo 2) and remove the ball joint.
The removal of the lower ball joint on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car is performed to replace it, replace the rubber boot, or perform other repairs in which its presence will interfere with their progress, for example, when removing the lower suspension arm. A characteristic sign indicating a malfunction of the ball joint is the appearance of a dull metallic knock when the car is moving, especially pronounced when driving over rough terrain. It is also worth replacing the ball joint in case of untimely replacement of a torn anther, through a tear in which dirt enters the ball joint and, as a result, the gap in the ball pin increases.
To carry out repair work, prepare a standard set of tools, a special puller for a ball joint and do the following sequence of actions:
Remove the wheel from the side being repaired, and then unscrew the adjusting nut of the front hub bearing.
Next, with a ring wrench for twenty-two, unscrew the nut securing the ball pin to the steering knuckle.
Then we install an emphasis under the lower lever and with a key of thirteen we unscrew the nuts securing the bolts of the ball joint housing.
We take out all the bolts from their seats and remove the steering knuckle with support from the lever.
We install the puller and press out the support pin from the pivot arm.
We take the steering knuckle a little to the side and remove the shank of the outer hinge housing of the wheel drive from the hub, after which we remove the ball joint housing.
In the absence of a special puller, the finger can be knocked out using a hammer, with which sharp and strong blows are applied to the fist and at the same time, working with a small mounting blade on the wedge, as if squeezing the finger out of its seat.
This completes the repair work on the removal of the lower ball joint on the VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car. Carry out the necessary repairs, then install in reverse order.
Hang and remove the front wheel.
Loosen the front wheel bearing adjusting nut.
Using a 22 spanner wrench, unscrew the nut securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle.
Install the stop under the lower arm.
Using the “13” wrench, we unscrew the nut of the ball joint bolt to the lower arm, holding the bolt from turning with a wrench of the same dimension.
We unscrew the nuts of two more bolts.
... and take the steering knuckle with a ball joint from the lower arm.
Using a puller, press the ball joint pin out of the steering knuckle hole.
You can also use this puller.
We take the steering knuckle to the side and remove the shank of the outer hinge housing of the drive from the hub.
In the absence of a puller, unscrew (not completely) the nut securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle (photo 1). We compress the spring with a stop installed under the lower arm. We insert the mounting blade with an edge between the end of the lower arm eyelet and the support pressure plate.
By striking with a hammer on the eye of the steering knuckle, we press out the ball joint pin from the fist hole.
Having unscrewed the nut of the support pin and the adjusting nut of the front hub bearings, we take the steering knuckle to the side and remove the stop. We unscrew the nuts of the bolts securing the ball joint to the lower arm (see photo 2) and remove the ball joint.
Removing the Pressure Plate and Ball Pin Protector
To replace the ball joint with a VAZ 21213 Niva, you will need a lift and a special puller, although you can do without this, having little experience in auto repair. You will need a jack, a pair of keys (on "13" and "22") and a hammer. We remove the wheel. We unscrew the hub nut and remove the brake disc with it. We unscrew the upper nuts securing the upper ball joint to the steering knuckle (key to “13”), and then with the key to “22” unscrew the lower nut of the support and now carefully knock out the support with blows directed upwards. After that, we collect everything back, with a new ball joint.
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I’ll make a reservation right away that I did all the work without any special pullers and devices, so to speak, with folk remedies - with the help of a good hammer at hand. So, what do we need for this Niva repair. Firstly, the key is 13, and secondly, a good cap for 22 and, as mentioned above, a solid hammer.
The first step is to jack up the side of the car where we are going to replace the supports. We remove the front wheel. We unscrew the hub nut and remove the brake disc along with it. Detailed instructions for removing the hub with the disc are described here.
Next, we unscrew the fastening nuts with a ball wrench for 13 on both sides, something like this will look like it is shown in the photo below:
When these connections have been dealt with, you can take the key to 22 and unscrew the lower nut of the VAZ 2121 support.
Now, after that, it is necessary to lower the car, after substituting some kind of support under the lever, and at least a stump, so that the spring compresses. Then we take the outer CV joint to the side so that it does not interfere with the removal of the support and hit the fist with strong hammer blows, after which the ball should pop out of its seat. Approximately everything should happen as I showed in the photo below:
And here is the result of the work done:
Then you can replace with a new part. The price for it is 250 rubles in most auto parts stores or on the market. The procedure for replacing the upper support is even simpler, so I think it’s not worth painting it in detail.
Removing the top ball joint
The operation is carried out when replacing the ball joint or boot (anther) of the ball pin.
Hang and remove the front wheel.
1. Using the “22” head, unscrew the nut securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle.
2. Remove the two clamps (pressure plates) securing the brake hoses.
3. Install the stop under the lower arm.
Using the “13” wrench, we unscrew the nut of the ball joint bolt to the upper arm, holding the bolt from turning with a wrench of the same dimension.
4. Turn off the nuts of two more bolts. We take out the bolts and remove the steering knuckle with a ball joint from the upper arm
5. Using a puller, press the ball joint pin out of the steering knuckle hole
In the absence of a puller, by unscrewing the ball joint mounting nut, remove the brake hose clamps.
We compress the spring with a stop installed under the lower arm.
We insert a bar between the upper arm and the rebound buffer bracket.
We bait the nut of the ball joint pin.
7. By striking with a hammer on the eye of the steering knuckle, we press out the pin of the ball joint from the hole of the steering knuckle.
Having unscrewed the nuts of the bolts securing the ball joint to the upper arm and the nut of the support pin, remove the ball joint.
8. Remove the pressure plate
9. Remove the protective cover of the ball pin
10. When installing a new ball stud boot, we put SRB-4 grease in it.
We assemble and install the ball joint in reverse order
The ball joints bear the weight of the front of the vehicle, including the weight of the engine. At the same time, when moving, they receive constant blows from the wheels in any direction. No matter how durable the material these parts are made of, their service life is limited. It is good that in many cases restoration with your own hands is possible.
Of course not, this is directly related to security.
When dismembering the ball joint, the wheel breaks and its rotation is blocked. The car immediately leaves the trajectory. The consequences can be fatal.
Movement with play in the ball joint leads to a violation of controllability. At the right moment, you may not have time to make a maneuver.
At the first sign of wear on these components, it is necessary to undergo suspension diagnostics.
Thus, having determined the symptoms of a malfunction, conclusions are drawn about the maintainability of the part. After revealing critical wear, ball joints must be changed. However, their cost is quite high, especially if they are integral with the suspension arm. Therefore, many motorists prefer to make repairs.
It's important to know! After repair, the ball joint is not restored to the state of a new part. The service life will be shorter. But you don't have to worry about the safety of operation.
There are many ways to restore. Quite popular is the sjr technology repair method, when a molten polymer is pumped into the cavity between the cage and the ball.
We will consider the repair with disassembly of this unit.
To understand the mechanism of operation of the support, look at the diagram:
Only the polymer liner is subject to wear. It is during its abrasion that backlash appears. If you continue to ride with a loose ball joint, the upper part of the cylinder also breaks, and then the pin can fly out of the cage.
Inserts are sold in car dealerships as consumables. If your ball joint is collapsible, you can easily pull out the bottom and replace the polymer inside the product.
First of all, the knot must be removed correctly. The finger sticks to the suspension arm so strongly that it is actually one with it. Previously, preferably a day before, the compound is abundantly treated with a penetrating liquid. WD-40 compound or regular kerosene is used. There are two ways to remove your finger from the eyelet:
Press out with a ball joint puller. This is the most painless and reliable way, but the puller is not always at hand. There are no universal devices, and the designs for fastening the ball joint are different.
The second method is more universal, but there is a risk of damaging the thread on the support pin. It is necessary to screw a nut made of strong steel (hardness 9.8) onto the tip of the ball joint and knock the ball out of the eye with precise short blows of the hammer.
Important! You can't hit your finger directly. You will rivet the threaded connection, and it will be impossible to screw on the working fastening nut.
So, the ball joint is in your hands. The outer cylinder (cage) is a monolithic structure. The finger cannot be removed.
The blind part of the support body is removable. At the same time, you can repeatedly change the plastic inserts, each time restoring the operability of the support. Removable bottom allows routine inspection without removing the ball joint from the suspension.
A hole the size of a ball of a finger is drilled in the bottom (with a small gap, of course). Drilled out - conditionally said. A milling machine is required. Do not be afraid to damage the plastic liner when boring, you will change it anyway. A thread is cut inside. This is a rather complicated procedure due to the large diameter. But in any tool shop, you will be given such work for a nominal fee.
Then, a threaded plug is made under this hole, repeating the shape of the regular bottom.
Tip: Use two ball joints to make the plug accurately. With one, cut off the bottom with a grinder and use as a form template.
On the made bottom, you must cut the slots for the key, otherwise it will not be possible to firmly tighten the repair unit.
Now, for repair, it will be enough to unscrew the plug, remove the finger (checking its geometry) and replace the plastic liners.
Important! It is necessary to ensure the locking of the thread, otherwise the bottom may unscrew during operation.
The principle is the same as in the first case - to make a removable bottom. Only the execution is different. If the bottom of the support is too thin to make a full-fledged threaded connection, it is necessary to make a repair sleeve. It is machined on a lathe from a steel circle of suitable diameter. In the bottom of the glass, the same hole is machined and a thread is cut. And finally, a replacement support bottom is made.
Then, the bottom of the cylinder is cut off from the ball joint using a grinder or a hacksaw. A repair glass is welded in its place. The method is more time consuming, but it does not allow the finger to heat up during the dismantling process.
Further operation according to the same scheme: when a backlash appears, unscrew the repair plug, remove the finger, change the plastic liners.
It is worth noting that manufacturers of spare parts produce many options for repair ball joints. Under these collapsible cases, both replaceable liners and new fingers are sold. However, in our article we consider it is self-production.
The fastest way to restore the ball joint. The back (reference) part of the cylinder is simply cut off. The method does not matter - you can use a hacksaw, you can use a grinder, anyway there will be a temperature effect afterwards.
Having gained access to the cylinder cavity, you can change the polymer liners.
Important! Before installing new liners, be sure to remove the burrs formed during sawing. The torn edges of the metal will quickly split the liners during operation.
After installing new liners, the bottom is carefully welded. In this case, it is necessary to compensate for the thickness of the seam for the metal production formed during sawing. Usually it is 1.5–2 mm.
Important! Use a welding method in which the temperature effect is minimal. The polymer liner inside can reach the melting temperature. Therefore, until complete cooling, no load should be applied to the finger in order to avoid deformation of the liner.
This technology requires professional equipment, so it is impossible to expand the ball joint in garage conditions. A crimp ring is cut according to the diameter of the ball of the finger.
The seat and the ball are cleaned of dirt, polished. New liners and a compression ring are selected or machined from caprolon.
After assembly, the compression ring is pressed in and rolled on a press. When crimping, special inserts are used according to the diameter of the ring.
A threaded plug looks preferable, since there is no temperature effect on the support. However, this method requires a thick bottom, which is not always present on compact parts.
A glass with a carving is the golden mean. Welding occurs without affecting the plastic, however, the strength characteristics of the metal deteriorate.
Welding is the simplest, but inefficient way. After high temperature treatment, new polymer inserts lose their properties and their service life is reduced.
Flaring is an ideal method in terms of quality. You actually get a new ball joint, manufactured according to factory technologies. However, at home, this technique does not work.
VIDEO
And there are actually two recovery technologies - either pour something inside by removing the cover, or completely disassemble the ball joint by pressing out the bottom. At the same time, the oiler was screwed in. Or they simply squeezed the outer part on the press. But more often than not, the ball dies from a torn cover, then dirt, sand, water fill up inside, grinding down bushings, and iron, and the ball. So not every ball can be restored. And it doesn’t matter how to restore, fill in or disassemble, the main thing is that, in principle, it should be possible.
I drove rebuilt ball and steering wheels for two years, I won’t say anything bad, though it’s also good ... The owner of the service station (according to him) immediately restores even new spare parts for himself, he says that the restored ones last longer ... I’m used to drawing conclusions based on an understanding of the process, and I don’t understand how it is possible to restore a seemingly non-separable part ... The service workers say: the finger is removed, the wear of the finger is turned, then it is polished and filled with plastic.
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It doesn’t make sense to pour frankly rusty ones, since the geometry of the finger will already be too disturbed, which will lead to an irregular shape of the filled polymer, and all that follows from this.
Give examples of accidents that occurred due to the fault of restored ball joints, and not due to keeping a distance or speed limit, for example. I myself am engaged in repairs, I have seen a lot of restored parts, there are regular customers who have left for more than 50 thousand restored and excellent, the main thing is to restore in time! And if you are afraid for your life, then buy new cars, not rubbish, which is already sent to scrap in Europe, and follow ALL traffic rules. P.S.: The fact that you bought a new spare part does not mean that it is good, especially in our markets. New new discord.
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To decide how to repair the suspension - just calculate the cost of restoration. In some cases, it makes sense to buy a new unit, sometimes repairs will be more cost-effective. In any case, the variety of possibilities gives a chance to save money.
During the repair of the chassis or steering on the Chevrolet Niva, the car owner is faced with the need to remove the ball joint, and it is almost impossible to do this without a special tool, since the seat where the above elements are located becomes dirty. For this, there is a special puller that simplifies extrusion at times. You can buy it in almost any auto shop, but you can also make a do-it-yourself ball joint puller, below are several ways to do this.
Let's look at how it works, and as an example, the extrusion of the upper ball joint will be.
Without removing the lock nut, unscrew it
We take the made puller and insert it between the fingers of the supports so that the bolt head rests on the finger that needs to be pressed out
Then, with two keys, holding the puller body with one, and unscrewing the bolt with the second, we unwind until it is pressed out of the seat.
If necessary, remove the lower ball joint, then turn the puller over and do all the same steps.
These are the three simplest removable mechanisms for removing ball bearings, and in order to make them you can use the materials at hand, the most basic thing you need for this is an understanding of the whole principle of operation, below is a drawing that will help you understand all these principles. And so there are more options, and if you have at least a little imagination and a little knowledge in plumbing, then you can come up with and make your own tool that will be right for you.
VIDEO
The replacement of the upper ball joint on a Niva 2121 and 2131 car is carried out in the event of its failure, which is accompanied by the appearance of a characteristic knock when the car moves along a bumpy road. As a rule, the main cause of ball wear can be: either a temporary factor or damage to the rubber boot, as a result of which dirt gets into the lubricant, which gradually mixes with it, begins to work on the principle of sandpaper and as a result, a rapid increase in the gap and a characteristic knock. To perform repairs, you will need a standard set of tools, a special puller. If you have everything you need, do the following sequence of actions:
Jack up the side to be repaired and remove the wheel.
We clean the surface of the ball, upper arm from dirt, if possible, blow everything with compressed air.
Using a twenty-two open-end wrench, unscrew the nut securing the ball joint pin to the steering knuckle and remove it.
Next, remove the clamping plates of the brake hoses.
With a thirteen key, we unscrew the three nuts of the bolts securing the ball housing to the upper suspension arm. Then we remove the nuts and take out the bolts from their seats.
We take the steering knuckle assembly with the ball joint to the side and proceed to its dismantling.
We install the puller and press the pin out of the head of the steering knuckle.
In the absence of a puller, the finger can be pressed out with a hammer, which must be applied sharp and strong blows to the head of the steering knuckle.
Remove the ball joint.
We make a replacement, after which we carry out the installation in the reverse order. Before installation, it is imperative to replace the pin fastening nut, as well as the nuts of the body fastening bolts. Please note that self-locking ones are used. Also, before installation, the anther must be filled with grease.
This completes the repair work on replacing the upper ball joint on the Niva 2121 and 2131 car.
I’ll make a reservation right away that I did all the work without any special pullers and devices, so to speak, with folk remedies - with the help of a good hammer at hand. So, what do we need for this Niva repair. Firstly, the key is 13, and secondly, a good cap for 22 and, as mentioned above, a solid hammer.
The first step is to jack up the side of the car where we are going to replace the supports. We remove the front wheel. We unscrew the hub nut and remove the brake disc along with it. Detailed instructions for removing the hub with the disc are described here.
Next, we unscrew the fastening nuts with a ball wrench for 13 on both sides, something like this will look like it is shown in the photo below:
When these connections have been dealt with, you can take the key to 22 and unscrew the lower nut of the VAZ 2121 support.
Now, after that, it is necessary to lower the car, after substituting some kind of support under the lever, and at least a stump, so that the spring compresses. Then we take the outer CV joint to the side so that it does not interfere with the removal of the support and hit the fist with strong hammer blows, after which the ball should pop out of its seat. Approximately everything should happen as I showed in the photo below:
And here is the result of the work done:
Then you can replace with a new part. The price for it is 250 rubles in most auto parts stores or on the market. The procedure for replacing the upper support is even simpler, so I think it’s not worth painting it in detail.
The replacement of the lower ball joint on a Niva 2121 and 2131 car is performed for the same reasons as replacing the upper one. To perform repairs, you will need a special puller, a standard set of tools. If you have everything you need, do the following sequence of actions:
We remove the wheel from the repaired side and clean the surface of the ball and lower arm from dirt, using a metal brush or blowing everything with compressed air.
We remove the protective decorative cap of the hub nut and unscrew it completely.
Next, using a twenty-two wrench, unscrew the nut securing the ball pin to the steering knuckle. We remove the nut.
We put a stop under the lower lever, for example a wooden block.
With two thirteen keys, one of which we hold the bolt from turning, we unscrew the nut securing the ball housing to the lower arm.
Having unscrewed the remaining two nuts of the housing mounting bolts, we take them out and move the steering knuckle together with the ball joint to the side.
Install the puller and press the ball pin out of the steering knuckle. In the absence of it, apply sharp blows with a hammer to the steering knuckle together where the finger is installed.
We remove the ball.
This completes the repair work on the removal of the lower ball joint on the Niva 2121 and 2131 car. Replace it, after which we install the new one in the reverse order. The body and pin fastening nuts must be replaced with new ones - self-locking ones are used. Before assembly, fill the boot with clean grease.
VIDEO
It happens that a restored do-it-yourself ball joint can last longer than cheap duplicates. Even a novice motorist can replace this node.
As long as the anther is intact, the ball joint practically does not wear out. Intensive ball wear begins after the anther becomes unusable, with dirt getting inside. Therefore, keep an eye on the anthers, since the timely replacement of an unusable anther is an extension of the life of the unit.
True, the joint of the welded body is not airtight, therefore water is drawn into the body through it even with a whole anther. Therefore, if the body of the assembly consists of two parts, it is advisable to fill it with lithol through the grease fitting.
If you hear a knock or squeak from the suspension while driving on a rough road, it is possible that these sounds come from worn ball joints. It is better to determine the source of unpleasant sounds together: one to go down into the inspection hole and put his hand on the ball, and the other to rock the car. When you feel the sound with your hands, remove the support, clamp it in a yew, and check the hinge play. The finger should not move from small efforts, but it should not bite either, otherwise the assembly needs repair or replacement.
This check must also be carried out in the following cases:
Creaking when turning the steering wheel.
Spontaneous wobbling when driving in a straight line.
Tight steering wheel.
Ball bearing puller.
Jack.
Car stand.
A set of keys.
Pliers.
Mount.
The ball puller, as a rule, is not universal. If you have not found a suitable puller, you can successfully replace it with a hammer. You just need to know where to hit. You do not need to knock your finger out of the seat. The blow should be perpendicular to the finger, and you need to hit the eye (since the conical finger, a slight landing pressure will squeeze it out of the eye). The hammer is a universal puller. It should be neither too heavy nor too light, 600 grams will be just right.
Withdrawal: Loosen the wheel mount. Jack up the car. Remove the wheel. Turn the steering wheel so that it is convenient to work. If the pin nut is splinted, remove the cotter pin with pliers. Loosen the nut. Take the puller, squeeze out your finger with it. Loosen the ball joint housing. Press the lower arm with a pry bar and remove the ball joint. Removing and repairing tie rod ends and ball joints is no different, you just need to take another puller. The recovery methods are identical.
Installation: Attach the hinge body to the lower arm, tighten the fasteners, press the lower arm with a pry bar, insert the pin into the seat. Screw the nut on the finger, tighten it. If the finger turns, pull the lever with the crowbar up (the finger with the landing cone, therefore, when the finger is pressed in, it stops turning in the landing). Don't forget to pin the nut. A puller is not required for installation. The next replacement of the supports will not force you to fiddle with cotter pins if you change the nuts to self-locking ones.
Emery or grinder.
extruder.
An electric drill with a large chuck (so that you can squeeze your finger into it to grind the ball with sandpaper).
Locksmith yews.
Welding machine (preferably semi-automatic).
Compressor.
Restoration of supports can occur in two ways:
Converting a non-separable hinge into a collapsible one, grinding the ball of the finger and replacing the liners.
Repair by injecting softened plastic into the gap between the ball and the body using an extruder.
Of course, you should not buy equipment for a one-time repair, but the simplest extruder can be quickly made with your own hands from an old master brake cylinder by attaching a lever to it to press the piston. You can heat it to soften the plastic with a burner or blowtorch.
Do-it-yourself repair and restoration in the second way usually takes place without disassembling the assembly.
Do not take on the restoration of the hinge, if the finger is removed from it without disassembly, such a node will not be repaired, but only replaced. The hole for the finger in the body must be smaller than the diameter of the ball in order to. In the event of wear of the liner, the finger could not fly out of the case, causing an accident.
When restoring the hinge with your own hands, disassemble it completely and grind the finger ball, no matter how you intend to restore the assembly. Then the fruit of your work will not need replacement so soon. Even if you are going to use an extruder for restoration, do not be too lazy to disassemble the hinge to see if a replacement finger is needed. If not needed, then just grind his ball.
Video (click to play).
VIDEO
