Immediately I will make a reservation that I did all the work without any special pullers and devices, so to speak with folk remedies - with the help of a good hammer at hand. So, what do we need for this repair of the Niva. Firstly, a key for 13, and secondly, a good cap key for 22 and, as mentioned above, a solid hammer.
The first step is to jack up the side of the car where we are going to replace the supports. Remove the front wheel. We unscrew the hub nut and remove the brake disc with it. Detailed instructions for removing the hub with disc are described here.
Next, unscrew the fastening nuts with a 13 ball wrench on both sides, something like this will look like the one shown in the photo below:
When these connections have been dealt with, you can take a 22 key and unscrew the lower nut securing the VAZ 2121 support.
Now, after that, it is necessary to lower the car, first substituting some kind of support under the lever, and at least a stump, so that the spring compresses. Then we move the outer CV joint to the side so that it does not interfere with the removal of the support and hit the fist with strong hammer blows, after which the ball should jump out of its seat. Almost everything should happen as I showed in the photo below:
Then you can replace it with a new part. The price for it is 250 rubles in most auto parts stores or on the market. The procedure for replacing the upper support is even simpler, so I think it's not worth describing it in detail.
Unlike the classic VAZ family, the Niva 2121 rarely finds itself with an inverted wheel at the side of the road. It's all about a slightly different suspension operation, which does not receive a critical load in certain operating modes. Although the ball joints themselves are used of a similar design.
There are three generations. They differ from each other in the geometry of the case:
NPO Belmag is involved as the main supplier for staffing the Niva on the conveyor. The products of BZAK, Trek, Kedr and VIS are also distributed. The reliability of the components is generally the same. The resource varies from 45 to 90 thousand kilometers. It is difficult to build an unambiguous rating due to the inconsistent quality. At the same time, foreign manufacturers (Lemforder and TRW) cannot compete with domestic companies in this area at all.
Most often, the element fails due to the ingress of dirt into the hinge through a torn boot. In this case, mechanical particles act as a powerful abrasive. The end result is natural - increased gaps and knocking. At extreme levels of wear, the assembly is destroyed.
To obtain the maximum amount of information about the state of the lower ball joint, you should create the same conditions as when the car is moving. That is why simply lifting the car on a lift and shaking the wheels will not bring concrete results.
To remove the ball bearing Niva 2121, raise the car on a jack and dismantle the wheel, clean all elements from dirt with a metal brush or compressed air, unscrew the adjuster.
the hub nut (use a chisel with the cap in place).
Using a 22 mm box wrench, unscrew the nut that secures the assembly to the steering knuckle (PC).
Place a stop at the lowest point of the suspension arm (screw, bottle jacks, wood block).
Use two 13mm wrenches to release the ball mount from the lower arm.
Move the PC away from the lever.
Using a puller, press out the ball joint pin.
If there is no special device at hand, insert the block into the space between the upper suspension arm and the bracket with the rebound buffer, after compressing the spring with a bar or jack and tightening the support pin nut. Then use concentrated blows to hit the PC lug until you get the result.
Before installing new supports, do not forget to fill it with ShRB-4 grease.
VIDEO
We hang out and remove the front wheel.
With a spanner wrench "22" we unscrew the nut securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle.
Install the stop under the lower arm.
With the key "13" we unscrew the nut of the bolt fastening the ball joint to the lower arm, keeping the bolt from turning with a wrench of the same dimension.
We unscrew the nuts of two more bolts.
… And move the ball bearing knuckle away from the lower arm.
Using a puller, we press out the ball joint pin from the hole of the steering knuckle.
You can also use such a puller.
We move the steering knuckle to the side and remove the shank of the housing of the outer hinge of the drive from the hub.
In the absence of a puller, unscrew (not completely) the nut securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle (photo 1). We squeeze the spring with a stop installed under the lower arm. We insert the mounting blade with an edge between the end of the eyelet of the lower arm and the pressure plate of the support.
Striking with a hammer on the steering knuckle eyelet, press the ball joint pin out of the knuckle hole.
Having unscrewed the nut of the support pin and the adjusting nut of the front hub bearings, we move the steering knuckle to the side and remove the stop. We unscrew the nuts of the bolts securing the ball joint to the lower arm (see photo 2) and remove the ball joint.
Removal of the lower ball joint on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car is performed to replace it, replace a rubber boot or when performing other repair work in which its presence will interfere with their progress, for example, when removing the lower suspension arm. A characteristic sign indicating a malfunction of the ball joint is the appearance of a dull metal knock when the car is moving, especially pronounced when driving over rough terrain. Also, the ball should be replaced in case of untimely replacement of a torn anther, through a tear in which dirt gets into the ball and, as a result, the gap in the ball pin increases.
To carry out repair work, prepare a standard set of tools, a special puller for a ball and do the following sequence of actions:
Remove the wheel from the repaired side, and then unscrew the front hub bearing adjusting nut.
Next, using a twenty-two spanner wrench, unscrew the nut securing the ball pin to the steering knuckle.
Then we install a stop under the lower arm and, with a thirteen key, unscrew the nuts securing the bolts of the ball joint housing.
We take out all the bolts from our seats and move the steering knuckle with support from the lever.
Install the puller and press out the support pin from the pivot arm.
We move the steering knuckle a little to the side and remove the shank of the housing of the outer hinge of the wheel drive from the hub, after which we remove the housing of the ball joint.
In the absence of a special puller, the finger can be knocked out using a hammer, which applies sharp and strong blows to the fist and at the same time, working with a small assembly spade on the wedge, as if squeezing the finger out of its seat.
This completes the repair work to remove the lower ball joint on the VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 cars. Carry out the necessary repairs, and then carry out the installation in the reverse order.
We hang out and remove the front wheel.
We unscrew the adjusting nut of the front hub bearings
With a spanner wrench "22" we unscrew the nut securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle.
Install the stop under the lower arm.
With the key "13" we unscrew the nut of the bolt fastening the ball joint to the lower arm, keeping the bolt from turning with a wrench of the same dimension.
We unscrew the nuts of two more bolts.
… And move the ball bearing knuckle away from the lower arm.
Using a puller, we press out the ball joint pin from the hole of the steering knuckle.
You can also use such a puller.
We move the steering knuckle to the side and remove the shank of the housing of the outer hinge of the drive from the hub.
In the absence of a puller, unscrew (not completely) the nut securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle (photo 1). We squeeze the spring with a stop installed under the lower arm. We insert the mounting blade with an edge between the end of the eyelet of the lower arm and the pressure plate of the support.
Striking with a hammer on the steering knuckle eyelet, press the ball joint pin out of the knuckle hole.
Having unscrewed the nut of the support pin and the adjusting nut of the front hub bearings, we move the steering knuckle to the side and remove the stop. We unscrew the nuts of the bolts securing the ball joint to the lower arm (see photo 2) and remove the ball joint.
Removing the pressure plate and ball pin protective boot
To replace the ball joint on the VAZ 21213 Niva, you will need a lift and a special puller, although you can do without this, having little experience in auto repair. You will need a jack, a pair of keys (for "13" and "22") and a hammer. We remove the wheel. We unscrew the hub nut and remove the brake disc with it. We unscrew the upper nuts securing the upper ball joint to the steering knuckle (key to "13"), and then use the key to "22" to unscrew the lower nut securing the support and now carefully knock out the support with blows directed upwards. After that, we collect everything back, with a new ball.
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Even more useful tips in an easy-to-use format
Immediately I will make a reservation that I did all the work without any special pullers and devices, so to speak with folk remedies - with the help of a good hammer at hand. So, what do we need for this repair of the Niva. Firstly, a key for 13, and secondly, a good cap key for 22 and, as mentioned above, a solid hammer.
The first step is to jack up the side of the car where we are going to replace the supports. Remove the front wheel. We unscrew the hub nut and remove the brake disc with it. Detailed instructions for removing the hub with disc are described here.
Next, unscrew the fastening nuts with a 13 ball wrench on both sides, something like this will look like the one shown in the photo below:
When these connections have been dealt with, you can take a 22 key and unscrew the lower nut securing the VAZ 2121 support.
Now, after that, it is necessary to lower the car, first substituting some kind of support under the lever, and at least a stump, so that the spring compresses. Then we move the outer CV joint to the side so that it does not interfere with the removal of the support and hit the fist with strong hammer blows, after which the ball should jump out of its seat. Almost everything should happen as I showed in the photo below:
But this should be the result of the work done:
Then you can replace it with a new part. The price for it is 250 rubles in most auto parts stores or on the market. The procedure for replacing the upper support is even simpler, so I think it's not worth describing it in detail.
Removing the upper ball joint
The operation is carried out when replacing the ball joint or a cover (anther) of the ball pin.
We hang out and remove the front wheel.
1. Using the "22" head, unscrew the nut securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle.
2. Remove the two clamps (pressure plates) of the brake hoses.
3. Install the stop under the lower arm.
With the key "13" we unscrew the nut of the bolt fastening the ball joint to the upper arm, keeping the bolt from turning with a wrench of the same dimension.
4. Unscrew the nuts of two more bolts. We take out the bolts and move the steering knuckle with a ball joint from the upper arm
5. With a puller we press out the ball joint pin from the hole of the steering knuckle
In the absence of a puller, unscrewing the nut securing the ball joint, remove the brake hose clamps.
We squeeze the spring with a stop installed under the lower arm.
Insert a block between the upper arm and the rebound buffer bracket.
We bait the nut of the ball joint pin.
7. Striking with a hammer on the steering knuckle eyelet, press out the ball joint pin from the steering knuckle hole.
After unscrewing the nuts of the bolts securing the ball joint to the upper arm and the nut of the support pin, remove the ball joint.
8. Remove the pressure plate
9. Remove the protective cover of the ball pin
10. When installing a new ball pin cover, put the ShRB-4 grease into it.
We assemble and install the ball joint in reverse order
The ball joints bear the weight of the front of the vehicle, including the weight of the engine. At the same time, when driving, they receive constant blows from the wheels in any direction. No matter what durable material these parts are made of, their service life is limited. It is good that in many cases, do-it-yourself restoration is possible.
Of course not, this is directly related to security.
When the ball joint is dismembered, the wheel breaks and its rotation is blocked. The car immediately leaves the trajectory. The consequences can be fatal.
Moving with a backlash in the ball joint leads to a violation of control. At the right moment, you may not have time to make the maneuver.
At the first sign of wear on these components, it is necessary to undergo a suspension diagnosis.
Thus, having determined the symptoms of a malfunction, conclusions are drawn about the maintainability of the part. After identifying critical wear, the ball balls must be replaced. However, their cost is quite high, especially if they are integral with the suspension arm. Therefore, many car enthusiasts prefer to make repairs.
It's important to know! After repair, the ball is not restored to the state of a new part. The service life will be shorter. But you don't have to worry about operational safety.
There are many recovery methods. The repair method using the sjr technology is quite popular, when molten polymer is pumped into the cavity between the cage and the ball.
We will consider repairs with disassembly of this unit.
To understand the mechanism of operation of the support, look at the diagram:
Only the polymer liner is subject to wear. It is during its abrasion that backlash appears. If you continue to ride with a loose ball joint, the top of the cylinder also breaks, and then the finger can fly out of the cage.
The inserts are sold at auto dealerships as consumables. If your ball joint is collapsible, you can easily pull out the bottom and replace the polymer inside the product.
First of all, the assembly must be removed correctly. The finger sticks so strongly to the suspension arm that it is practically one piece with it. Previously, preferably a day before, the compound is abundantly treated with a penetrating liquid. The composition is WD-40 or regular kerosene. There are two ways to remove your finger from the lug:
Press out with a ball joint puller. This is the most painless and reliable method, but the puller is not always at hand. There are no universal fixtures, but the fastening structures of the ball joint are different.
The second method is more universal, but there is a risk of damaging the thread on the support pin. On the tip of the ball, it is necessary to screw a nut made of solid steel (hardness 9.8) and knock the ball out of the lug with precise short blows of a hammer.
Important! You can't hit your finger directly. You will rivet the threaded connection, and it will be impossible to screw on the working fastening nut.
So, the ball joint is in your hands. The outer cylinder (cage) is a monolithic structure. It is impossible to remove your finger.
The blank part of the support body is removable. In this case, you can repeatedly change the plastic liners, each time restoring the support's performance. The removable bottom allows for routine inspection without removing the ball joint from the suspension.
A hole the size of a ball of a finger is drilled in the bottom (with a small gap, of course). Drilled out - conditionally said. A milling machine is required. Do not be afraid to damage the plastic liner when boring, you will still be changing it. A thread is cut inside. This is a rather complicated procedure due to its large diameter. But in any tool shop you will be able to do such work for a nominal fee.
Then a threaded plug is made for this hole, repeating the shape of the standard bottom.
Tip: Use two ball joints for precise manufacturing of the plug. With one, cut the bottom off with a grinder and use it as a sample form.
On the manufactured bottom, you must cut the slots for the key, otherwise it will be impossible to firmly tighten the repair unit.
Now, for repairs, it will be enough to unscrew the plug, remove the finger (checking its geometry) and replace the plastic inserts.
Important! It is necessary to ensure that the thread is locked, otherwise the bottom may unscrew during operation.
The principle is the same as in the first case - to make a replaceable bottom. Only the execution is different. If the bottom of the support is too thin to make a full threaded connection, a repair cup must be made. It is turned on a lathe from a steel circle of a suitable diameter. In the bottom of the glass, the same hole is machined and a thread is cut. And finally, a removable support base is made.
Then the bottom of the cylinder is cut from the ball bearing using a grinder or a hacksaw for metal. A repair glass is welded in its place. The method is more time consuming, but it does not allow the finger to heat up during the dismantling process.
Further operation according to the same scheme: when a backlash appears, we unscrew the repair plug, remove the finger, change the plastic inserts.
It is worth noting that manufacturers of spare parts produce many options for repair ball joints. Both replaceable inserts and new pins are sold for these collapsible housings. However, in our article we are considering just self-production.
The fastest way to restore the ball joint. The rear (support) part of the cylinder is simply cut off. The method does not matter - you can use a hacksaw, you can use a grinder, there will still be a temperature effect afterwards.
Having gained access to the cylinder cavity, the polymer liners can be changed.
Important! Be sure to remove any cut burrs before installing new bushings. Torn metal edges will quickly split the earbuds during use.
After installing new inserts, the bottom is carefully welded. In this case, it is necessary to compensate with the thickness of the seam the production of metal formed during the sawing. This is usually 1.5–2 mm.
Important! Use a welding method that minimizes temperature exposure. The inside of the polymer liner may heat up to its melting point. Therefore, until it cools completely, do not apply any load to the pin in order to avoid deformation of the liner.
This technology requires professional equipment, so it is impossible to expand a ball in a garage. The crimp ring is cut to the diameter of the ball of the finger.
The seat and the ball are cleaned of dirt, polished. New liners and a crimping ring are selected or machined from caprolon.
After assembly, the ferrule is pressed in and rolled on the press. When crimping, special clip-on inserts are used along the diameter of the ring.
A threaded plug looks preferable as there is no thermal effect on the support. However, this method requires a thick bottom, which is not always present on compact parts.
Glass with carvings - the golden mean. Welding takes place without affecting the plastic, however, the strength characteristics of the metal deteriorate.
Welding is the simplest, but ineffective way. After high temperature treatment, new polymer inserts lose their properties and their service life decreases.
Flaring is an ideal method in terms of quality. You actually get a new ball joint, manufactured using factory technologies. However, this technique does not work at home.
VIDEO
And there are actually two recovery technologies - either pour something inside, removing the cover, or disassemble the ball completely, pressing out the bottom. At the same time, the oil can was screwed in. Or they simply squeezed the outer part on the press. But more often than not, the ball dies from a torn cover, then dirt, sand, water are stuffed inside, grinding off the bushings, and the iron, and the ball. So not every ball can be restored. And it is not important how to restore, fill or disassemble, the main thing is that, in principle, it is possible.
I drove the restored ball and steering wheels for two years, I won't say anything bad, really good too ... The owner of the service station (according to him) immediately restores even new parts for himself, he says - the restored ones last longer ... I am used to drawing conclusions based on an understanding of the process, and how it is possible to restore a seemingly non-separable part, I do not understand ... STO specialists say: the finger is removed, the wear of the finger is turned, then it is polished and filled with plastic.
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It makes no sense to fill in frankly rusty ones, since the geometry of the finger will already be too disturbed, which will lead to an irregular shape of the filled polymer, well, all that arises from this.
Give examples of accidents that occurred due to the fault of the restored ball, and not due to the observance of the distance or speed limit, for example. I am engaged in repairs myself, I saw many restored parts, there are regular customers who have left for more than 50 thousand restored ones and it is excellent, the main thing is to restore it on time! And if you are afraid for your life, then buy new cars, not rubbish, which is already being scrapped in Europe, and follow ALL traffic rules. PS: The fact that you bought a new part does not mean that it is good, especially in our markets. New new discord.
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To decide how to repair your suspension, simply calculate the cost of rebuilding. In some cases, it makes sense to buy a new unit, sometimes repairs will be more cost-effective. In any case, the variety of possibilities gives you a chance to save money.
During the repair of the chassis or steering on a Chevrolet Niva, the car owner is faced with the fact that it is necessary to remove the ball joint, and it is practically impossible to do this without a special tool, since the seat where the above elements are located becomes dirty. For this, there is a special puller that simplifies pressing out at times. You can buy it in almost any auto shop, but you can also make a ball joint puller with your own hands, below are several ways on how to do this.
Let's take a look at how it works, and an example would be squeezing the top ball joint.
Without removing the lock nut, unscrew it
We take the made puller and insert it between the fingers of the supports so that the bolt head rests on the finger that needs to be pressed out
Then, with two keys, one holding the puller body, and with the second unscrewing the bolt, we unscrew it until it is pressed out of the seat.
If necessary, remove the lower ball, then the puller should be turned over and do the same.
These are three of the simplest removable mechanisms for removing ball joints, and in order to make them you can use the materials at hand, the most basic thing you need for this is an understanding of the whole principle of operation, below is a drawing that will help you understand all these principles. And so there are more options, and if you have at least a little imagination and a little knowledge in plumbing, then you can come up with and make your own tool that will suit you.
VIDEO
Replacement of the upper ball joint on the Niva 2121 and 2131 is carried out in the event of its failure, which is accompanied by the appearance of a characteristic knock when the car moves on a bumpy road. As a rule, the main reason for ball wear can be: either a time factor, or damage to the rubber boot, as a result of which dirt gets into the grease, which gradually mixing with it begins to work on the principle of sandpaper and, as a result, a rapid increase in the gap and a characteristic knock. To carry out repair work, you will need a standard set of tools, a special puller. If you have everything you need, do the following sequence of actions:
Jack up the side to be repaired and remove the wheel.
We clean the surface of the ball, upper arm from dirt, if possible, blow everything with compressed air.
With a twenty-two open-end wrench, unscrew the nut securing the ball joint pin to the steering knuckle and remove it.
Next, remove the brake hose pressure plates.
With a thirteen wrench, unscrew the three nuts of the bolts securing the ball housing to the upper suspension arm. Then we remove the nuts and take out the bolts from their seats.
We move the steering knuckle assembly with the ball to the side and proceed to dismantle it.
Install the puller and press the finger out of the knuckle head.
In the absence of a puller, the finger can be pressed out with a hammer, which must be applied to the head of the steering knuckle with sharp and strong blows.
Remove the ball joint.
We make a replacement, after which we carry out the installation in the reverse order. Before installation, it is imperative to replace the pin fastening nut, as well as the nuts of the bolts of the housing itself. Please note that self-locking are used. Also, before installation, the boot must be filled with grease.
This completes the repair work to replace the upper ball joint on the Niva 2121 and 2131.
Immediately I will make a reservation that I did all the work without any special pullers and devices, so to speak with folk remedies - with the help of a good hammer at hand. So, what do we need for this repair of the Niva. Firstly, a key for 13, and secondly, a good cap key for 22 and, as mentioned above, a solid hammer.
The first step is to jack up the side of the car where we are going to replace the supports. Remove the front wheel. We unscrew the hub nut and remove the brake disc with it. Detailed instructions for removing the hub with disc are described here.
Next, unscrew the fastening nuts with a 13 ball wrench on both sides, something like this will look like the one shown in the photo below:
When these connections have been dealt with, you can take a 22 key and unscrew the lower nut securing the VAZ 2121 support.
Now, after that, it is necessary to lower the car, first substituting some kind of support under the lever, and at least a stump, so that the spring compresses. Then we move the outer CV joint to the side so that it does not interfere with the removal of the support and hit the fist with strong hammer blows, after which the ball should jump out of its seat. Almost everything should happen as I showed in the photo below:
But this should be the result of the work done:
Then you can replace it with a new part. The price for it is 250 rubles in most auto parts stores or on the market. The procedure for replacing the upper support is even simpler, so I think it's not worth describing it in detail.
The replacement of the lower ball joint on the Niva 2121 and 2131 car is performed for the same reasons as the replacement of the upper one. To carry out repair work, you will need a special puller, a standard set of tools. If we have all the necessary, we do the following sequence of actions:
We remove the wheel from the repaired side and clean the surface of the ball and lower arm from dirt using a metal brush or blowing everything with compressed air.
Remove the protective decorative cap of the hub nut and unscrew it completely.
Next, with a twenty-two wrench, unscrew the nut securing the ball finger to the steering knuckle. Remove the nut.
We put a stop under the lower arm, for example, a wooden block.
With two thirteen keys, with one of which we keep the bolt from turning, unscrew the nut that secures the ball body to the lower arm.
Having unscrewed the remaining two nuts of the housing bolts, we take them out and move the steering knuckle together with the ball to the side.
Install the puller and extrude the ball finger from the steering knuckle. If it is not there, use a hammer to hit the steering knuckle with sharp blows together where the finger is located.
We remove the ball.
This completes the repair work to remove the lower ball joint on the Niva 2121 and 2131. Replace it, after which we install a new one in the reverse order. The nuts for fastening the body and the pin must be replaced with new ones - self-locking ones are used. Before assembly, fill the boot with clean grease.
VIDEO
It happens that a refurbished ball joint with your own hands can last longer than cheap duplicates. Even a novice car enthusiast can replace this unit.
While the boot is intact, the ball practically does not wear out. Intense ball wear begins after the boot becomes unusable, with dirt getting inside. Therefore, watch out for the anthers, since the timely replacement of an unusable anther is an extension of the life of the unit.
True, the joint of the welded body is not hermetically sealed, therefore, water is drawn into the body through it, even with a whole boot. Therefore, if the body of the unit consists of two parts, it is advisable to fill it with lithol through the grease gun.
If you hear a knock or squeak from the suspension while driving on uneven roads, these sounds may be coming from worn ball joints. It is better to identify the source of unpleasant sounds together: one goes down into the inspection hole and put his hand on the ball, and the other rocks the car. When you feel the sound with your own hands, remove the support, clamp it in a yew, and check the hinge play. The finger should not move from small efforts, but it should not bite either, otherwise the unit needs repair or replacement.
It is imperative to carry out this check also in the following cases:
Squeak when turning the steering wheel.
Spontaneous wobbling when driving in a straight line.
Tight steering wheel.
Ball joint remover.
Jack.
Stand for the car.
A set of keys.
Pliers.
Crowbar.
Ball puller is usually not universal. If you have not found a suitable puller, it can be successfully replaced with a hammer. You just need to know where to hit. No need to knock your finger out of the seat. The blow should be perpendicular to the finger, and you need to hit on the eyelet (since the cone finger will squeeze it out of the eyelet with a slight pressure from the landing). The hammer is a universal puller. It should be neither too heavy nor too light. 600 grams will do just fine.
Withdrawal: Loosen the wheel attachment. Jack up the car. Remove the wheel. Turn the steering wheel so that it is comfortable to work. If the pin nut is cottered, remove the cotter pin with pliers. Unscrew the nut. Take a puller, squeeze out your finger. Unscrew the ball housing mount. Use a pry bar to squeeze the lower lever and remove the ball. Removing and repairing tie rod ends and ball joints is no different; you just need to take another puller. The recovery methods are identical.
Installation: Attach the hinge body to the lower arm, tighten the fasteners, press the lower arm with a pry bar, insert the pin into the seat. Screw the nut onto the finger, tighten it. If the finger rotates, pull the lever upward with the mount (the finger is with a conical seating, therefore, when the finger is pressed, it stops rotating in the seating). Do not forget to pin the nut. A puller is not needed for installation. The next replacement of the supports will not force you to fiddle with the cotter pins if you change the nuts to self-locking ones.
Emery or grinder.
Extruder.
An electric drill with a large chuck (so you can grip your finger in it to grind the ball with sandpaper).
Locksmith yews.
Welding machine (preferably a semiautomatic device).
Compressor.
The restoration of the supports can be done in two ways:
Converting a non-separable hinge into a collapsible one, grinding the ball of the finger and replacing the liners.
Repair by injecting softened plastic into the gap between the ball and the body using an extruder.
Of course, you should not buy equipment for a one-time repair, but the simplest extruder can be quickly made with your own hands from the old master brake cylinder by attaching a lever to it to press on the piston. It can be heated to soften the plastic with a torch or blowtorch.
Do-it-yourself repair and restoration in the second way usually takes place without disassembling the unit.
Do not take on the restoration of the hinge, if the finger is removed from it without disassembly, such a unit will not be helped by repair, but only replacement. The pin hole in the body must be less than the diameter of the ball in order to. In case of wear of the liner, the finger could not fly out of the body, causing an accident.
When restoring the hinge with your own hands, disassemble it completely and grind the ball of your finger, no matter how you intend to restore the knot. Then the fruit of your work will not need a replacement so soon. Even when planning to use an extruder for recovery, do not be too lazy to disassemble the hinge to see if a replacement finger is needed. If not needed, then just grind its ball.
Video (click to play).
VIDEO
