Do-it-yourself repair of ball joints vaz 2107

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of ball joints of a VAZ 2107 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Ball joints are the most short-lived suspension parts of the AvtoVAZ classic. Given the state of domestic roads, the ball joint on the VAZ 2107 is the first part that has to be changed after a certain run of the car. Novice motorists have questions about how to replace ball joints and which ball is better to put on the VAZ 2107.

The design of the front suspension with ball bearings has replaced the previously popular pivot mechanism and is the most common. The task of these nodes is to provide vertical movement and rotation of the wheel while driving. Ball joints are constantly exposed to strong alternating loads while the vehicle is in motion, and their breakage is fraught with a serious accident. Therefore, special requirements are imposed on the material and quality of production of ball joints. The rapid wear of the ball bearings during operation even forced the designers to develop suspension options without this "delicate" unit. But, as mentioned above, most cars (and the VAZ line of cars completely) include ball joints in the front suspension design.

"Ball" (as abbreviated as they are called) are made in two versions: jellied structures and products with a cermet insert. The first type is used in the upper, the second - in the lower ball joints. This is due to the different loads that the liners are subjected to. In the lower nodes, compression and tension occur alternately, in the upper ones, only compression.

On the Russian market, more than 30 companies offer ball on VAZ 2107... Of these, products of such brands are especially popular:

These brands, according to reviews of car service specialists and the results of a customer survey, do not cause any complaints in terms of quality and are in greatest demand. Units from other companies occupy no more than 5% of the market for this type of spare parts.

The reliability of the ball joints is extremely important for safety, therefore, their condition must be carefully monitored and replaced at the first sign of malfunction, which manifests itself in the following:

Video (click to play).

knocking while driving at low speed;
squeak when turning the steering wheel, emanating from the area of \ u200b \ u200bthe attachment of the wheels;
unstable holding of the course;
uneven tire wear;

[warning] The lifespan of the ball joints depends on the driving style and the condition of the road surface. Given the important role of components, ball joints must be inspected before long journeys, not limited to regular maintenance.

At the slightest sign of wear, the ball must be replaced, as a worn ball can fly out a finger, as a result of which the wheel will turn out and the car will unpredictably change its trajectory. [/ Warning]

The replacement of the ball joints can be carried out independently without the involvement of car service mechanics.

It is better to replace the ball valves by lifting the car on a lift or placing it in an inspection pit. This will provide easy access to parts and a good overview. But you can do without it.

You will need the following tools:

a set of keys;
adjustable wrench;
puller for ball;
hammer;
drift;
solvent or liquid WD-40;
medical syringe;
grease.

Replacing ball joints does not require unique skills and is available to anyone who knows how to handle a wrench. Before starting work, it is necessary to hang the car on a lift or turn on the "handbrake" and put on the wheel chocks.

Loosen the wheel bolts.
Jack up the vehicle by hanging the wheels (or lifting on a lift).
Unscrew the wheel bolts and remove the wheel.
Clean the threads on the pins and bolts of the ball joints with a wire brush.
Treat threaded connections with solvent or WD-40 to facilitate loosening.
Using a 22 wrench, loosen the nuts on the pins of the upper and lower supports.
Install the puller according to the instructions.
Press out the supports (if you do not learn, you need to "help" with a hammer and a punch).
Unscrew the nuts on the ball pins and remove the pins from the front wheel mechanism knuckle.
Unscrew the nuts and remove the bolts securing the support to the lever.
Remove the ball joints.

Installation of ball joints occurs in the reverse order of removal. Before installing in the ball (under the boot), you need to put grease. Special attention should be paid to the tightening torque of the ball nuts and the integrity of the anthers of the ball joints. If the boot is torn, dirt will get between the pin and the ball joint liner and the bearings will fail very quickly.

Now you know what ball joints on the VAZ 2107 are for, which ones are better to buy and how to independently replace worn-out ball joints with new ones.

Today, I bring to your attention a step-by-step instruction on replacing ball joints on a VAZ 2107, with a detailed description of the process supported by informative photos. Replacing ball joints specialists have worked out to automatism and over the years has changed only slightly thanks to new tools and capabilities.

Replacing the ball joint VAZ 2107 produced on an inspection pit or a lift in my case. At the beginning of any work related to the repair, take care of your own safety. If you are going to work in the inspection pit, install the wheel chocks, tighten the handbrake and engage the second gear. It is strictly forbidden to work on only one jack without the above safety measures.

Metal brush;
Liquid WD-40;
Key to “22” and “7”;
Ball joint puller;
Ball joint grease;
Syringe "medical" (without a needle);
Adjustable wrench.

1. The first step, of course, is to remove the wheel.

2. Next, using a metal brush, clean the fasteners of the ball joints.

3. Treat all connections to be unscrewed (as shown in the photo) using WD-40 thread penetrating fluid or equivalent.

4. Take a wrench on “22” and unscrew the nuts of the upper and lower ball joints about one and a half to two turns.

Self-replacement of ball joints VAZ 2107 (upper and lower)

5. Now install the special ball joint extractor.

6. As a rule, in one go, it turns out to pull out two ball joints at once: the top one "shoots off" the first, and then the bottom one. If, for some reason, the ball does not give in and remains in place, then using a steel drift and a hammer, you can help it get out. The blows must be applied to the protrusion, which is on the steering knuckle.

Self-replacement of the ball joint VAZ 2107

7. When the ball joints of the VAZ 2107 were pressed out, unscrew the fastening nut of the upper ball joint and remove the ball joint from the fist.

8. If the finger is spinning - clamp the lever using the assembly.

9. Unscrew the fastening of the ball joint to the upper arm.

10. Now you can remove the ball.

11. Next, you need to carefully clean the seat of the ball joint on the lever, while carefully looking at the lever for any damage or cracks.

12. Remove the sealing washer from the old ball joint and install it on the new ball.

13. Before installing the ball joint, it must be thoroughly lubricated, for this use the lubricant ShRB-4, Litol-24.

14. Install the boot with the washer.

15. Now you can screw the ball to the lever. Place the ball in the knuckle and tighten the nut.

16. Unscrew the nut of the lower ball, almost always the pin starts to rotate, to avoid this, install the assembly between the knuckle and the brake shield, then make a lateral tension in the joint between the pin and the knuckle.

17.If it doesn't help, install an adjustable wrench in the gap between the lower arm and the fist and use it to keep your finger from rolling.

18. The nut is unscrewed, you can raise the fist up. Set the key to “22” in the cut between the upper part of the knuckle and the lower arm, this will make further work more convenient.

Self-replacement of ball joints VAZ 2107 (upper and lower)

19. Unscrew ball joint VAZ 2107 from the lever.

20. Again, carefully inspect the lever and seat, then clean the latter of rust and dirt.

21. Take a new ball joint and check the bottom for grease. To do this, use the key for “7”, unscrew the plug with it.

22. If no grease is found, fill with ball grease using a medical syringe without a needle.

23. Install the ball joint in place on the bottom of the lever and screw it to the knuckle.

That's all! New ball joints successfully installed, therefore, we can conclude that the independent replacement of the ball joints was successful! All the best to you, go for it and you will certainly succeed!

Today I will publish an article that will be useful for beginners and experienced drivers. We will talk about how to replace ball joints on a VAZ 2107 with our own hands.

The replacement of the VAZ 2107 ball joint is carried out on an inspection pit or a lift. At the beginning of any work related to the repair, take care of your own safety. If you are going to work in the inspection pit, install the wheel chocks, tighten the handbrake and engage the second gear. It is strictly forbidden to work without the above safety measures on one jack only..

To replace the ball joint, we need
- Brush for metal.
- Liquid WD-40.
- Key for "22" and "7".
- Ball joint puller.
- Lubricant for the ball joint.
- Syringe "medical" (without a needle).
- Adjustable wrench.

Replacing the ball joint VAZ 2107 with your own hands

1. The first step, of course, is to remove the wheel.

2. Next, using a metal brush, clean the fasteners of the ball joints.

3. Treat all connections to be unscrewed (as shown in the photo) using WD-40 thread penetrating fluid or equivalent.

4. Take a wrench on "22" and unscrew the nuts of the upper and lower ball joints about one and a half to two turns.

5. Now install the special ball joint extractor.

7. When the ball joints of the VAZ 2107 were pressed out, unscrew the fastening nut of the upper ball joint and remove the ball joint from the fist.

8. If the finger is spinning - clamp the lever using the assembly.

9. Unscrew the fastening of the ball joint to the upper arm.

10. Now you can remove the ball.

11. Next, you need to carefully clean the seat of the ball joint on the lever, while carefully looking at the lever for any damage or cracks.

12. Remove the sealing washer from the old ball joint and install it on the new ball.

13. Before installing the ball joint, it must be thoroughly lubricated, for this use the lubricant ShRB-4, Litol-24.

14. Install the boot with the washer.

15. Now you can screw the ball to the lever. Place the ball in the knuckle and tighten the nut.

17. If it does not help, install an adjustable wrench in the gap between the lower arm and the fist and use it to keep the finger from turning.

18. The nut is unscrewed, you can raise the fist up.In the cut between the upper part of the knuckle and the lower arm, set the key to "22", this will make further work more convenient.

19. Unscrew the ball joint VAZ 2107 from the lever.

20. Again, carefully inspect the lever and seat, then clean the latter of rust and dirt.

21. Take a new ball joint and check the bottom for grease. To do this, use the key on "7", unscrew the plug with it.

22. If no grease is found, fill with ball grease using a medical syringe without a needle.

23. Install the ball joint in place on the bottom of the lever and screw it to the knuckle.

New ball joints have been successfully installed! Replacing ball joints on a VAZ 2107 with your own hands is possible, the main thing is to do everything point by point. Let me remind you that the previous article was about replacing the VAZ 2107 generator with your own hands.

As you know, the replacement of the ball joints of the VAZ 2107 should be done every several tens of thousands of kilometers. This part is the most important part of the car's suspension. When connected to the steering knuckle, it allows the machine to maneuver. If you notice an unusual knock when driving on uneven roads, we recommend that you immediately check the condition of your car's suspension. How to inspect and replace the necessary parts, you will learn from our article.

To find out how things are going with the suspension, you need a jack. Raise the front of the vehicle first. Grasp the top and bottom of the wheel with both hands and rock it. If the ball joint is to be replaced, it will emit an unpleasant metallic sound.

For another verification method, you will need an assistant. Adjust the hub nut and ask him to press the "brake" all the way, holding it for a while. Now rock the wheel. The rattling that appears will only confirm your suspicions.

The main enemies top and the bottom ball joints are not only water or dirt, but also substandard materials. It is better of all to purchase spare parts made of steel, as they are the most durable and wear-resistant. What kind firms produce such parts, you will be advised in any store for motorists. Also in the choice you can be helped reviews other car owners of the VAZ 2107. Most of them recommend paying attention to domestic manufacturers, since cheap Chinese counterparts can fail at any time.

pressure plate;
ball pin cover;
upper ball pin.

First, prepare everything you need:

grease (usually WD - 40);
brush;
set of wrenches;
puller (when replacing such parts puller is an irreplaceable element);
an ordinary syringe without a needle;
the ball joints themselves (it is betterto be immediately replaced upper and bottom).

Do not forget about safety rules and be sure to put the car on the handbrake before starting work. Now you can start. Remove the wheel, brush off the dust from the places where the ball joints are located, lubricate them with WD-40.

To produce removing the top support, use a jack by placing it under the harness. Then loosen your finger with the key. top ball joint.

Take puller, remove the finger from the steering knuckle, having previously unscrewed the fasteners.

Disconnect the upper support from the arm. Now it can be easily dismantled complete with a plate and a cover.

Let's start removing the lower support, starting with dismantling the ball pin. Take puller, remove the finger from the steering knuckle, unscrew its nuts.

Disconnect the lower support and the arm, perform withdrawal these parts.

You must be careful examination all removed parts. Replace all required items and you can start reassembling.

Please note that at the end of the work, it is necessary examination installation angles of the front wheels.

Ball joints are one of the main components of a car's chassis.Due to their design, they require regular inspection and replacement if cracks or other defects are found. Replacement for a VAZ 2107 can be done on your own without the involvement of car service specialists.

Ball joints are used on most models today. This design replaces the pivot mechanism that previously connected the suspension to the wheel hub. The task of the unit is to ensure the vertical movement of the wheel when it is horizontally fastened. All parts of the assembly are accurately adjusted in shape and size, but during the operation of the car, the gap between the body and the tip increases. This leads to a knock, and later on to complete destruction.

All elements of the ball joint must be made with high quality and without defects, this will guarantee the reliability and durability of the entire mechanism

The wear of the ball joints largely depends on the intensity of driving, the transported goods and the quality of the road surface. In addition to regular maintenance at a service center, experts recommend inspecting the mechanism before a long trip or when a third-party knocking appears in the wheel area.... It is not worth tightening with the repair, since with complete wear, the ball can fly out even on the move, which will lead to the eversion of the wheel and uncontrolled skid.

Signs of replacement of ball joints are:

knocking while driving on uneven surfaces at low speed;
squeak in the area of \ u200b \ u200bthe wheels when turning the steering wheel;
unstable movement in a straight line;
uneven tire wear.

Tip: If there is no special indicator for checking the backlash, you can lean your palm against the body. The increase in free space will be felt when the wheel is rocking.

For any repair, it is important to use quality components. You should not buy cheap fakes that will break down after a short time. Many experts recommend using supports from the Kedr manufacturer. It uses high-strength steel for the ball "pin", which is especially important. Almost all the load falls on this element and the durability of the entire structure largely depends on its reliability.

Much depends on the manufacturing technology of the components. Only large enterprises can use cross-wedge rolling, cold heading and other technologies that can significantly improve the quality of parts. You should not buy the cheapest Chinese-made ball joints. Before buying, you should carefully examine the spare part. The “finger” should not have sharp edges, its color is light gray with an uneven texture.

The most convenient way to carry out repairs is on a viewing pit or on a lift. This will provide yourself with a good view for inspection and will have the necessary access to the mechanisms.

From the tool you will need:

metal brush;
solvent;
a set of keys;
puller for supports;
adjustable wrench;
medical syringe;
lubricants.

Before starting the replacement, make sure that the car is on the handbrake and the protective flaps under the wheels are installed correctly.

We remove the wheel.
We clean the fastenings of the ball joints with a metal brush.
To prepare the connections for disassembly, we use a solvent that will remove coked dirt and rust. Removing the nuts will be much easier if the connections are pre-treated with WD-40 solvent.
Loosen the nuts of the upper and lower supports using a 22 wrench. With a 22 wrench, remove the nut from the lower ball joint
Install the puller as shown in the photo. We install the puller in a certain position and press out the support with it
We press out both supports. If one of them does not give in, we use a drift and a hammer.
We unscrew the fastening nut and pull the ball out of the fist. Using a wrench, unscrew the nut on the upper ball joint
Remove the bolt that secures the support to the lever. Use a cap wrench to remove the mounting bolt
We remove the support. After unscrewing the bolt, the ball joint can be easily removed

Not every car enthusiast has a ball joint puller in his garage. In his absence, you can use a sledgehammer and a soft metal guide. In this case, you will need to apply physical force to unpress the "finger". You need to hit a certain place, as indicated in the photo.

The blow must be applied to the trunnion of the ball joint

But it should be borne in mind that if the car is used for a long time, then problems may arise with the removal of the "finger" in this way.

It is not worth tightening with the repair of ball joints, since the destruction of this mechanism while driving can lead to a serious accident. For replacement, it is worth choosing components from a reliable manufacturer. Chinese counterfeits are not even worth considering, despite the low price.

Welcome!
Ball joints - when driving on good roads, they live a much long life and rarely change, so does the rest of the hodovka, but in Russia it is very rare to find high-quality expensive ones, especially for those who live in small villages, in small towns and villages, therefore and the ball joints will have to be changed very often, because of the worn out bearings, the wheel when hitting a bump will hurt a lot, in this regard, there will be a loss of adhesion to the road, and at high speed it is no longer so safe.

Note!
There are only four supports on the classics, two on the left side and two on the right, the upper and lower supports are removed absolutely identical, they are fixed on three nuts (Immediately think about which tool you need), but before you unscrew these nuts, you will need a nut unscrew the finger of the ball joint, knock the finger out of the lever (it is best in this case to use a special puller to remove the supports) and after unscrewing the nuts, the ball joint can be removed, keep in mind one thing But! The ball ones are at the very bottom, so over time they turn sour and you simply cannot pick them up with your hand (When everything is unscrewed), in this case you will need a small crowbar or a thick powerful screwdriver!

Summary:

Where are the ball joints?
In the suspension of a classic car, there are elements of which there are no front-driven machines, so in the classics there are levers, namely the lower and upper levers, between which there are springs and shock absorbers, ball bearings are also fixed on these levers, one ball is located on top, the other the ball is at the bottom, both of them are indicated by arrows in the photo below:

When do you need to change the ball joints?
The ball joint consists of an anther (the so-called elastic band, it is indicated by a blue arrow) under which the entire core (main part) of the ball joint is located, to be more precise, there is a ball that can move, besides that, there is also a grease packed there, so this is the main part is at the ball joint, and if everything breaks inside or dirt gets in, then such a support will be subject to immediate replacement, otherwise the wheels, as we said, will collapse already when driving into a small hole, which is very dangerous when driving over a bump at speed and whatnot that worn-out bearings will emit various kinds of sounds, mainly knocking and squeaks, so if you start to hear constantly while driving one of the above, then in this case, check the ball joint, it is very easy, the main thing is that the tool you need is at hand (How to check the support is shown in the video clip at the very end of this article).

1. First, lift the car (the part on which the replacement will be made) and then unscrew the bolts that secure the wheel (see "Removing wheels on the car"), before your eyes there will be two ball joints, finding each of them and figuring out which one will need to be replaced, get to work, let's say a few words on the lower support, if you decide to change it, then loosen the nut that secures the pin of the ball joint on the lever with any key (see.photo below), taking a hammer, make as many blows as necessary on the outer surface of the lever (Until the finger at the support disengages from the lever, see the small photo) and then load the front suspension (Where you change the support, load the suspension - this means, put something under the lever or under the brake disc, for example, and then remove the car from the jack, thereby the suspension will be loaded) and unscrew the three nuts (One is indicated by a blue arrow) that fasten the ball (During unscrewing, the bolts of these nuts hold it against turning with the second key) and then completely remove it from the car lever.

Note!
So that there are no problems with the ball and the nuts are unscrewed normally, we recommend that you clean the ball with a metal brush before starting work and, at the end, apply penetrating grease WD-40 and then the nuts can be turned off more or less easily!

2. We figured out the lower support, now the upper one, if you did not read point 1 due to the fact that everything about the lower support was told there, then it was very, very vain, in general, read this point (Necessarily) well, in a nutshell , the upper support is removed in exactly the same way as the lower one, the whole sequence of actions, everything is absolutely identical, only there is one small But! When replacing the upper support, you need to load the suspension initially, then loosen the finger nut, knock it out (with hammer blows on the lever) and, of course, unscrew the nuts that attach the ball joint to the upper arm of the car (Only this will need to be done when the upper lever can be upward take away, that is, after knocking the finger out of the lever, because it will be much more convenient this way).

Note!
The hammer should be used only if the special. There is no puller for ball joints, if there is one, you can forget about the hammer, immediately unscrew the nut securing the finger and, using a puller, press it out of the lever by unscrewing three nuts, completely remove the ball joint from the car!

Additional video clip:
Two very instructive and interesting videos, we fixed a little below, one of them tells about how you can check the ball joints for serviceability, and the other shows the process of replacing them.

The ball joint of the car is a connecting structure that is part of the suspension and allows the wheel attached to it to rotate in different directions. Its failure while driving can lead to a serious accident. Therefore, every owner of a VAZ 2107 should know the algorithm for checking the performance and replacing ball joints.

The ball joint (SHO) is an ordinary hinge built into the VAZ 2107 suspension and allowing the wheel to move only in a horizontal plane. At the same time, it limits the ability of the wheel to move in the vertical direction.

Ball joints on the latest versions of the VAZ 2107 have become more compact

Ball joints VAZ 2107 are very short-lived, so they have to be changed often.

Previously, there were no ball joints on passenger cars. They were replaced by bulky pivots that had to be lubricated frequently. The mobility of such compounds left much to be desired. This, in turn, adversely affected the vehicle's handling. The designers of the VAZ 2107 abandoned the pivots and installed ball bearings. The first SHOs consisted of:

The finger was pressed into a fixed eyelet, fixed with a powerful spring and closed with a boot. This structure also needed to be lubricated periodically, but rather rarely (about twice a year). The pivots had to be lubricated every week.

No springs are used in modern ball joints

In the future, SHO VAZ 2107 was constantly improved:

the spring has disappeared from the structure;
the steel boot was replaced with a plastic boot;
the fixed eyelet, in which the finger was fixed, became more compact and received a plastic outer finish;
SHOs became non-separable, that is, almost disposable.

One driver I know assured me that he had found a great way to extend the life of plastic boots. Before installing new ball joints, he always applied a thick layer of silicone ointment to the anthers, which car owners use to keep the rubber bands on the car doors from freezing in winter. From his words it turned out that the anthers after such a procedure become practically "unkillable". When I asked how an ointment intended for rubber can improve the quality of plastic, I was advised to just try and see for myself. Unfortunately, we never got around to that. So I leave it to the reader to check this driver's find.

The main reasons for the failure of the SHO are as follows:

Alternating shock load. As a result, the ball pin, pressed into the suspension eyelet, is destroyed. The support is designed so that the shock loads on the ball of the pin are very high. With poor road quality, these loads multiply. In such conditions, even a high-quality SHO will not be able to fully develop its resource.
Lack of lubricant. Under the influence of shock loads, the grease from the SHO is gradually squeezed out. In addition, over time, the grease loses its original properties.
Destruction of the anther. The boot protects the swivel joint from dirt. If a crack appears in it, the dirt trapped in the hinge turns into an abrasive material and grinds the surface of the ball pin. Dirt gets into the hinge through a crack in the boot and grinds off the ball pin surface

The main signs of a malfunction of the SHO VAZ 2107 include:

Extraneous sounds. During movement from the side of the wheel, a knocking or grinding sound begins to be heard. This is especially pronounced on an uneven road at a speed of about 30 km / h and is usually the result of partial destruction of the ball on the support pin.
Wheel swing. When you pick up speed, the wheel begins to swing slightly in different directions. This happens due to the backlash arising in the SHO due to its wear. The situation is quite dangerous, and the backlash must be quickly eliminated. Otherwise, the wheel may turn at right angles to the body at speed. Backlash in the ball joint causes the front wheel to swing, which can turn around at speed
Grinding and squeaking sound when turning the steering wheel to the left or right. The reason is the lack of lubrication in one of the SHOs (usually only one of the supports fails).
Uneven wear on the front and rear tires. This can happen not only due to faulty SHOs. Uneven wear can be caused by incorrectly set camber and toe-in of wheels, insufficient or excessive air pressure in individual wheels, etc.

You can make sure that the cause of the grinding or squeaking is precisely the ball joint, in various ways.

Aurally. This will require an assistant. Two people swing the car with the engine off, while simultaneously pressing on the hood of the car from both sides. If, at the same time, an uncharacteristic sound is heard from one of the wheels, the corresponding SHO is worn out or needs lubrication.
Revealing the backlash SHO. The wheel, on which the support is most likely out of order, is lifted by a jack about 30 cm. The assistant from the passenger compartment depress the brake pedal to failure. After that, you should forcefully shake the wheel, first in a vertical plane up and down, then to the right and left. When the brakes are locked, play will immediately appear. Even if it is insignificant, the SHO still needs to be changed. To detect the backlash of the ball joint, the wheel should first swing up and down, and then to the right and left.
Inspection of ball pins. This method is relevant only for the latest VAZ 2107 models, which have special inspection holes for monitoring the wear of the ball pin without disassembling the support. If the pin is worn more than 6 mm, the ball joint must be replaced.

The main element of any SHO is a ball pin, on the reliability of which the service life of the entire unit depends. A quality ball pin must meet the following requirements:

the pin should be made only of high-alloy steel;
the ball of the finger must undergo a carburizing (surface hardening) procedure, and the body of the finger must be hardened and then cooled in oil.

Other support elements are produced by cold heading followed by heat treatment.

This technology of manufacturing SHO is quite expensive. Therefore, there are only a few firms that produce high-quality supports for the VAZ 2107. These include:

Belebeevsky plant "Avtokomplekt"; Ball joints "Belebey" are very popular with the owners of the VAZ 2107
Software "Beginning"; Ball joints produced by Nachary are more expensive than Belebey, and it is much more difficult to find them on sale
Pilenga (Italy). Italian SHO Pilenga - one of the most expensive and durable supports for the VAZ 2107

When choosing ball joints for the VAZ 2107, beware of fakes. There are quite a few such products on the market. Some of them are made so high quality that they can mislead even a specialist. The only criterion to distinguish a fake from the original is the price. Low-quality SHOs cost half the price of real ones. However, it is unacceptable to save on details, on which the life of the driver literally depends.

Ball joints on the VAZ 2107 cannot be repaired. On the first "sevens", collapsible SHOs were installed, from which it was possible to remove a worn ball pin and replace it. Modern supports do not understand. Moreover, even if we admit the possibility of disassembly, it will still not be possible to repair the SHO, since the ball pins for the VAZ 2107 have long been out of production.

To replace the SHO you will need:

a set of new ball joints;
jack;
a device for squeezing out the supports from the lugs;
set of open-end and socket wrenches;
hammer;
flat blade screwdriver.

Replacing ball joints on a VAZ 2107 is carried out as follows.

Video (click to play).

Thus, technically replacing the ball joints of the VAZ 2107 is quite simple. In practice, however, considerable physical strength is required to squeeze the ball pins out of the lugs. Therefore, any car owner, before starting work on replacing the SHO, should realistically assess their capabilities.