Do-it-yourself repair of ball joints vaz 2107

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of ball joints vaz 2107 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Ball bearings are the most short-lived suspension parts of the "classic" AvtoVAZ. Given the state of domestic roads, the ball joint on the VAZ 2107 is the first part that has to be changed after a certain mileage of the car. Novice motorists have questions about how to replace ball bearings and which ball joints are better put on the VAZ 2107.

The design of the front suspension with ball bearings has replaced the previously popular kingpin mechanism and is the most common. The task of these nodes is to ensure vertical movement and rotation of the wheel during movement. Ball joints are constantly subjected to strong variable loads while the vehicle is moving, and their failure is fraught with a serious accident. Therefore, special requirements are imposed on the material and workmanship of ball bearings. The rapid wear of ball joints during operation even forced the designers to develop suspension options without this “delicate” knot. But, as mentioned above, most cars (and the entire line of VAZ cars) include ball bearings in the design of the front suspension.

"Ball" (as they are called for short) are made in two versions: jellied structures and products with a ceramic-metal insert. The first type is used in the upper, the second - in the lower ball bearings. This is due to the different loads to which the liners are subjected. In the lower nodes, compression and tension alternately occur, in the upper ones - only compression.

More than 30 companies on the Russian market offer ball for VAZ 2107. Of these, products of such brands are especially popular:

These brands, according to the reviews of car service specialists and the results of a customer survey, do not cause any complaints about the quality and are in the greatest demand. Units from other companies occupy no more than 5% of the market for this type of spare parts.

The reliability of ball joints is essential to safety, so their condition must be carefully monitored and replaced at the first sign of failure, which manifests itself in the following:

Video (click to play).

knocking while driving at low speed;
creaking when turning the steering wheel, coming from the area where the wheels are attached;
unstable course keeping;
uneven tire wear;

[warning] The service life of ball joints depends on driving style and road surface conditions. Given the important role of the nodes, ball joints must be inspected before long trips, not limited to regular maintenance.

At the slightest sign of wear, the ball joint must be replaced, since a worn ball may have a finger flying out, as a result of which the wheel will turn out and the car will change its trajectory unpredictably.

You can replace the ball joints yourself, without involving car service mechanics.

It is better to replace ball joints by lifting the car on a lift or by placing it on a viewing hole. This will provide free access to details and a good overview. But you can do without it.

You will need the following tools:

a set of keys;
wrench;
ball puller;
hammer;
punch;
solvent or WD-40 liquid;
medical syringe;
lubricant.

Replacing ball joints does not require a unique skill and is available to anyone who knows how to handle a wrench. Before starting work, it is necessary to hang the car on a lift or turn on the handbrake and put on the wheel chocks.

Loosen the wheel bolts.
Jack up the car by hanging the wheels (or raise it on a lift).
Loosen the wheel bolts and remove the wheel.
Clean the threads on the pins and ball joint bolts with a wire brush.
Treat threaded connections with solvent or WD-40 to make loosening easier.
Using a 22 wrench, loosen the nuts on the pins of the upper and lower supports.
Install the puller according to the instructions.
Press out the supports (if you don’t learn, you need to “help” with a hammer and a punch).
Unscrew the nuts on the ball pins and remove the pin from the fist of the front wheel mechanism.
Unscrew the nuts and pull out the bolts securing the support to the lever.
Remove ball joints.

Installation of ball bearings occurs in the reverse order of removal. Before installing in the ball (under the anther), grease must be laid. Particular attention should be paid to the tightening torque of the ball nuts and the integrity of the anthers of the ball bearings. If the boot is torn, dirt will get between the pin and the ball joint bushing and the bearings will fail very quickly.

Now you know why you need ball bearings on the VAZ 2107, which ones are better to buy and how to independently replace worn-out ball bearings with new ones.

Today, I bring to your attention step-by-step instructions for replacing ball joints on a VAZ 2107, with a detailed description of the process supported by informative photos. Ball joint replacement specialists have worked out to automatism and over the years it has changed only slightly thanks to new tools and capabilities.

Replacing the ball joint VAZ 2107 produced on a viewing hole or a lift in my case. At the beginning of any repair work, take care of your own safety. If you are going to work on a viewing hole, install chocks, tighten the handbrake and turn on second gear. Working without the above security measures on a jack alone is strictly prohibited.

Metal brush;
Fluid WD-40;
Key on “22” and “7”;
Puller for ball bearings;
Grease for ball joint;
Syringe “medical” (without a needle);
Wrench.

1. First of all, of course, you need to remove the wheel.

2. Next, using a metal brush, clean the ball joint mounts.

3. Treat all connections to be loosened (as shown in photo) with WD-40 Thread Penetrant or equivalent.

4. Take the key to “22” and unscrew the nuts of the upper and lower ball joints about one and a half to two turns.

Self-replacement of ball bearings VAZ 2107 (upper and lower)

5. Now install the special ball joint puller.

6. As a rule, in one step, it turns out to pull out two ball bearings at once: the upper one “shoots off” first, and then the lower one. If for some reason the ball joint does not give in and remains in place, then using a steel drift and a hammer, you can help it get out. Blows must be applied to the ledge, which is on the steering knuckle.

Self-replacement of the ball joint VAZ 2107

7. When the VAZ 2107 ball joints were pressed out, unscrew the fixing nut of the upper ball joint and remove the ball joint from the fist.

8. If the finger scrolls, clamp the lever using the pry bar.

9. Turn off fastening of a spherical support to the top lever.

10. Now you can remove the ball.

11. Next, you need to carefully clean the seat of the ball joint on the lever, while carefully looking at the lever for any damage or cracks on it.

12. Remove the sealing washer from the old ball joint and install it on the new ball joint.

13. Before installing the ball joint, it must be thoroughly lubricated; for this, use ShRB-4, Litol-24 grease.

14. Establish anther together with a washer.

15. Now you can twist the ball to the lever. Install the ball joint in the knuckle and tighten the nut.

16. Unscrew the lower ball nut, almost always the finger starts to scroll, to avoid this, install the mounting between the fist and the brake shield, then make a lateral tightness in the connection of the finger and fist.

17. If it does not help, install an adjustable wrench in the gap between the lower arm and the fist and use it to keep your finger from scrolling.

18. The nut is unscrewed, you can raise the fist up. In the cut between the upper part of the fist and the lower arm, set the key to “22”, this will make further work more convenient.

Self-replacement of ball bearings VAZ 2107 (upper and lower)

19. Unscrew ball joint VAZ 2107 from the lever.

20. Again, carefully inspect the lever and seat, then clean the latter of rust and dirt.

21. Take a new ball joint and check for lubrication at the bottom. To do this, use the key on “7”, unscrew the plug with it.

22. If there is no grease, fill the ball with grease using a medical syringe without a needle.

23. Install the ball joint in place at the bottom of the lever and screw it to the knuckle.

That's all! New ball joints successfully installed, therefore, we can conclude that the self-replacement of ball joints was successful! All the best to you, go for it and you will certainly succeed!

Today I will publish an article that will be useful for beginners and experienced drivers. We will talk about how to replace the ball bearings on the VAZ 2107 with our own hands.

Replacing the ball joint VAZ 2107 is carried out on a viewing hole or lift. At the beginning of any repair work, take care of your own safety. If you are going to work on a viewing hole, install chocks, tighten the handbrake and turn on second gear. Working without the above safety measures on a jack alone is strictly prohibited..

To replace the ball joint, we need
- Metal brush.
– WD-40 fluid.
- Key on "22" and "7".
- Puller for ball bearings.
- Grease for the ball joint.
- Syringe "medical" (without a needle).
- Wrench.

Do-it-yourself replacement of the ball joint VAZ 2107

1. First of all, of course, you need to remove the wheel.

2. Next, using a metal brush, clean the ball joint mounts.

3. Treat all connections to be loosened (as shown in photo) with WD-40 Thread Penetrant or equivalent.

4. Take the key to "22" and unscrew the nuts of the upper and lower ball joints by about one and a half to two turns.

5. Now install the special ball joint puller.

7. When the VAZ 2107 ball joints were pressed out, unscrew the fixing nut of the upper ball joint and remove the ball joint from the fist.

8. If the finger scrolls, clamp the lever using the pry bar.

9. Turn off fastening of a spherical support to the top lever.

10. Now you can remove the ball.

11. Next, you need to carefully clean the seat of the ball joint on the lever, while carefully looking at the lever for any damage or cracks on it.

12. Remove the sealing washer from the old ball joint and install it on the new ball joint.

13. Before installing the ball joint, it must be thoroughly lubricated; for this, use ShRB-4, Litol-24 grease.

14. Establish anther together with a washer.

15. Now you can twist the ball to the lever. Install the ball joint in the knuckle and tighten the nut.

17. If it does not help, install an adjustable wrench in the gap between the lower arm and the fist and use it to keep your finger from scrolling.

18. The nut is unscrewed, you can raise the fist up. In the cut between the upper part of the fist and the lower arm, set the key to "22", this will make further work more convenient.

19. Unscrew the VAZ 2107 ball joint from the lever.

twenty.Again, carefully inspect the lever and seat, then clean the latter of rust and dirt.

21. Take a new ball joint and check for lubrication at the bottom. To do this, use the key on "7", unscrew the plug with it.

22. If there is no grease, fill the ball with grease using a medical syringe without a needle.

23. Install the ball joint in place at the bottom of the lever and screw it to the knuckle.

New ball joints successfully installed! Do-it-yourself replacement of ball bearings for a VAZ 2107 is possible, the main thing is to do everything point by point. Let me remind you that the previous article was about replacing the VAZ 2107 generator with your own hands.

As you know, the replacement of ball bearings VAZ 2107 should be done every few tens of thousands of kilometers. This part is the most important part of the car's suspension. Being connected to the steering knuckle, it allows the car to perform maneuvers. If you notice an unusual knock when driving on rough roads, we recommend that you immediately check the condition of your car's suspension. How to inspect and replace the necessary parts, you will learn from our article.

To find out how things are going with the suspension, you will need a jack. Raise the front of the car first. Grasp the wheel from above and below with both hands, shake it. If the ball joint is to be replaced, it will make an unpleasant metallic sound.

For another verification method, you will need an assistant. Adjust the hub nut and ask him to press the "brake" all the way, holding it for a while. Now swing the wheel. The rattling that appears will only confirm your suspicions.

The main enemies top and the bottom ball joints are not only water or dirt, but also substandard materials. It is better just buy spare parts made of steel, as they are the most durable and wear-resistant. What kind firms produce such parts, you will be prompted in any store for motorists. They can also help you choose reviews other VAZ 2107 car owners. Most of them recommend paying attention to domestic manufacturers, since cheap Chinese counterparts can fail at any time.

pressure plate;
ball pin cover;
upper ball pin.

First prepare everything you need:

lubricant (usually WD - 40);
brush;
set of wrenches;
puller (when replacing such parts puller is an indispensable element);
a regular syringe without a needle;
the ball joints themselvesit is betterto be immediately replaced upper and lower).

Do not forget about safety rules and be sure to put the car on the handbrake before work. Now you can get started. Remove the wheel, clean the dust from the places where the ball joints are located with a brush, lubricate them with WD-40.

To produce removal of the top supports, use a jack by placing it under the suspension. Then loosen your finger top ball bearing.

Take puller, remove the finger from the steering knuckle, after unscrewing the fasteners.

Disconnect the top support from the lever. Now it can be easily dismantled complete with a plate and a case.

Let's proceed to the removal of the lower support, starting with the dismantling of the ball pin. Take puller, remove the pin from the steering knuckle, unscrew its nuts.

Disconnect the bottom support and the lever, make withdrawal these spare parts.

You must carefully complete examination all removed parts. Replace all the necessary elements and you can start reassembly.

Please note that upon completion of work it is necessary examination front wheel alignment angles.

Ball joints are one of the main components of a running car. Due to their design, they require regular inspection and replacement if cracks or other defects are found. Replacement with a VAZ 2107 can be done on your own without the involvement of car service specialists.

Ball joints are used today on most models.This design replaced the pivot mechanism that previously connected the suspension and wheel hub. The task of the assembly is to ensure the vertical movement of the wheel when it is mounted horizontally. All parts of the assembly are clearly adjusted in shape and size, but during the operation of the car, the gap between the body and the tip increases. This leads to knocking, and in the future to complete destruction.

All elements of the ball joint must be made with high quality and without marriage, this will guarantee the reliability and durability of the entire mechanism.

The wear of ball bearings largely depends on the intensity of driving, the goods transported and the quality of the road surface. In addition to regular inspection at the service center, experts recommend inspecting the mechanism before a long trip or when a third-party knock appears in the wheel area.. It is not worth delaying the repair, because with complete wear, the ball joint can fly out even on the go, which will lead to the wheel eversion and uncontrolled skidding.

Signs of replacing ball joints are:

knocking while driving on uneven surfaces at low speed;
creaking near the wheels when turning the steering wheel;
unstable movement in a straight line;
uneven tire wear.

Tip: If there is no special indicator for checking the backlash, you can put your palm against the case. The increase in free space will be felt when the wheel is swinging.

With any repair, it is important to use high-quality components. You should not buy cheap fakes that will break after a short time. Many experts recommend using supports from the Kedr manufacturer. Here, high-strength steel is used for the “finger” of the ball, which is especially important. Almost the entire load falls on this element, and the durability of the entire structure largely depends on its reliability.

Much depends on the technology of manufacturing components. Only large enterprises can use cross-wedge rolling, cold heading and other technologies that can significantly improve the quality of parts. You should not buy the cheapest ball joints made in China. Before buying, you should carefully inspect the spare part. The "finger" should not have sharp edges, its color is light gray with an uneven texture.

It is most convenient to carry out repairs on a viewing hole or on a lift. So you will provide yourself with a good overview for inspection and will have the necessary access to the mechanisms.

From the tool you will need:

metal brush;
solvent;
a set of keys;
puller for supports;
wrench;
medical syringe;
lubricants.

Before starting the replacement, make sure that the car is on the handbrake and the protective flaps under the wheels are installed correctly.

We remove the wheel.
We clean the fastenings of the ball joints with a metal brush.
To prepare the connections for disassembly, we use a solvent that will remove coked dirt and rust. Removing the nuts will be much easier if you pre-treat the connections with WD-40 thinner
We loosen the nuts of the upper and lower supports using a 22 wrench. Using a 22 wrench, remove the nut from the lower ball joint
We install the puller, as shown in the photo. We install the puller in a certain position and press out the support with it
Press out both supports. If one of them does not give in, we use a drift and a hammer.
We unscrew the fixing nut and pull the ball from the fist. Loosen the nut on the upper ball joint with a wrench.
Remove the bolt that secures the support to the lever. Use a socket wrench to remove the mounting bolt
We remove the support. After unscrewing the bolt, the ball joint can be easily removed

Not every motorist in the garage has a puller for ball joints. In his absence, you can use a sledgehammer and a soft metal tip. In this case, you will need to apply physical force to press the "finger". You need to hit in a certain place, as indicated in the photo.

The blow must be applied to the trunnion of the ball joint

But it should be borne in mind that if the car is operated for a long time, then there may be problems with removing the “finger” in this way.

It is not worth delaying the repair of ball joints, since the destruction of this mechanism while driving can lead to a serious accident. For replacement, it is worth choosing components from a reliable manufacturer. Chinese fakes should not even be considered, despite the low price.

Welcome!
Ball joints - when driving on good roads, they live a much longer life and rarely change, so does the rest of the hodovka, but in Russia it is very rare to find high-quality expensive ones, especially for those who live in small villages, in small towns and villages, therefore and ball bearings will have to be changed very often, due to worn out bearings, the wheel will fall painfully when hitting a bump, in connection with this, there will be a loss of traction with the road, and at high speed it is no longer so safe.

Note!
There are only four supports on the classic, two on the left side and two on the right, it is removed that the upper and lower supports are absolutely identical, they are fixed on three nuts (Immediately think about what tool you will need), but before unscrewing these nuts, you will need a nut unscrew the ball joint pin, knock the pin out of the lever (It is best in this case to use a special puller to remove the bearings) and after unscrewing the nuts, the ball joint can be removed, note one But! The ball joints are at the very bottom, so over time they turn sour and you just can’t pick them up with your hand (When everything is unscrewed), in this case you will need a small crowbar or a thick powerful screwdriver!

Summary:

Where are the ball joints located?
The suspension of a classic car contains such elements that are not found in front-wheel drive vehicles, so in the classics there are levers, namely the lower and upper levers, between which there are springs and shock absorbers, ball bearings are also fixed on these levers, one ball is located on top, the other the ball is at the bottom, both of them are indicated by arrows in the photo below:

When should ball joints be changed?
The ball joint consists of an anther (the so-called rubber band, it is indicated by a blue arrow) under which there is the entire core (main part) of the ball joint, to be more precise, there is a ball that can move, besides that, grease is also stuffed there, and so this is the main part is at the ball joint, and if everything breaks inside or dirt gets in, then such a support will be immediately replaced, otherwise the wheels, as we have already said, will fall over already when hitting a small hole, which is very dangerous when hitting a bump at speed and something else that worn bearings will make various kinds of sounds, mainly knocking and squeaks, so if you start to hear one of the above all the time while driving, then in this case, check the ball joint, it's very easy, the main thing is that the tool you need is at hand (How to check the support is shown in the video clip at the very end of this article).

1. First, raise the car (the part on which the replacement will be made) and then unscrew the bolts that secure the wheel (see "Removing the wheels on the car"), there will be two ball joints in front of your eyes, finding each of them and figuring out which one will be subject to replacement, get to work, let's say a few words on the lower support, if you decide to change it, then loosen the nut of the ball joint pin on the lever with any wrench (see photo below), taking a hammer, make as many blows as you need, on the outer surface of the lever (Until the finger at the support disengages from the lever, see small photo) and then load the front suspension (Where you change the support, load the suspension - this means putting something under the lever or under the brake disc, boards, for example, and then remove the car from the jack, thereby the suspension will be loaded) and unscrew the three nuts (One is indicated by the blue arrow) that secure the ball joint (During unscrewing, the bolts of these hold the nuts from turning with the second wrench) and then completely remove it from the car lever.

Note!
So that there are no problems with the ball joint and the nuts are all normally unscrewed, we recommend that before starting work, clean the ball joint with a metal brush and at the end, apply WD-40 penetrating lubricant and then the nuts are more or less easy to unscrew!

2. We figured out the lower support, now the upper one, if you didn’t read paragraph 1 because everything about the lower support was told there, then very, very in vain, in general, read this paragraph (Required) and in a nutshell , the upper support is removed in exactly the same way as the lower one, the whole sequence of actions, everything is absolutely identical, only there is one small But! When replacing the upper support, you need to load the suspension initially, then loosen the finger nut, knock it out (By hammering on the lever) and, of course, unscrew the nuts that secure the ball joint on the upper arm of the car (Only this will need to be done when the upper lever can be up take it away, that is, after knocking your finger out of the lever, because it will be much more convenient).

Note!
A hammer should only be used if special there is no ball joint puller, if there is one, you can forget about the hammer at all, immediately unscrew the pin fastening nut and with the help of a puller, press it out of the lever, unscrewing the three nuts, completely remove the ball joint from the car!

Additional video clip:
We have attached two very instructive and interesting videos a little lower, one of them tells how you can check the ball joints for serviceability, and the other shows the process of replacing them.

The ball joint of a car is a connecting structure that is part of the suspension and allows the wheel attached to it to rotate in different directions. If it fails while driving, it can lead to a serious accident. Therefore, each owner of the VAZ 2107 must know the algorithm for checking the performance and replacing ball joints.

The ball joint (SHO) is an ordinary hinge built into the VAZ 2107 suspension and allowing the wheel to move only in a horizontal plane. At the same time, it limits the ability of the wheel to move in the vertical direction.

Ball bearings on the latest versions of the VAZ 2107 have become more compact

Ball bearings VAZ 2107 are very short-lived, so they have to be changed often.

Previously, passenger cars did not have ball joints. They were replaced by bulky kingpins that needed to be lubricated frequently. The mobility of such compounds left much to be desired. This, in turn, adversely affected the handling of the car. The designers of the VAZ 2107 abandoned the pivots and installed ball bearings. The first SHOs consisted of:

The finger was pressed into a fixed eyelet, fixed with a powerful spring and closed with anther. This design also needed to be lubricated periodically, but quite rarely (about twice a year). The lubrication of the pivots had to be changed every week.

Springs are not used in modern ball joints.

In the future, SHO VAZ 2107 was constantly improved:

the spring disappeared from the structure;
the steel boot was replaced with a plastic one;
the fixed eye, in which the finger was fixed, became more compact and received a plastic outer finish;
SHO became non-separable, that is, almost disposable.

One driver I know assured me that he found a great way to extend the life of plastic anthers. Before installing new ball joints, he always applied a thick layer of silicone ointment to the anthers, which car owners use to keep rubber bands on car doors from freezing in winter. From his words, it turned out that the anthers after such a procedure become practically “indestructible”. When I asked how an ointment designed for rubber could improve the quality of plastic, I was advised to just try it and see for myself. Unfortunately, the hands never reached this point. So I leave this driver's find to the reader to check.

The main reasons for the failure of the SHO are as follows:

Variable impact load. As a result, the ball pin pressed into the suspension eye is destroyed. The support is designed in such a way that the impact loads on the pin ball are very high. With poor road quality, these loads multiply. In such conditions, even a high-quality SHO will not be able to fully develop its resource.
Lubrication deficiency. Under the action of shock loads, the lubricant is gradually squeezed out of the SHO. In addition, over time, the lubricant loses its original properties.
Anther destruction. The boot protects the swivel joint from dirt. If a crack appears in it, the dirt that has entered the joint turns into an abrasive material and grinds off the surface of the ball pin. Through a crack in the anther, dirt enters the joint and grinds the surface of the ball pin

The main signs of a malfunction of the SHO VAZ 2107 include:

Extraneous sounds. During movement, a knock or rattle begins to be heard from the side of the wheel. This is especially pronounced on a rough road at a speed of about 30 km / h and is usually the result of a partial destruction of the ball on the support pin.
Wheel swing. When picking up speed, the wheel begins to sway slightly in different directions. This happens due to the backlash that occurs in the SHO due to its wear. The situation is quite dangerous, and the backlash must be quickly eliminated. Otherwise, the wheel at speed may turn at right angles to the body. The play in the ball joint leads to the swinging of the front wheel, which can turn around at speed
Rattle and creak when turning the steering wheel left or right. The reason is the lack of lubrication in one of the SHOs (usually only one of the supports fails).
Uneven wear front and rear tires. This can happen not only due to faulty SHOs. The reason for uneven wear can be incorrectly set camber and toe-in, insufficient or excessive air pressure in individual wheels, etc.

There are various ways to make sure that the ball joint is the cause of the rattle or creak.

Aurally. This will require an assistant. Two people rock the car with the engine turned off, simultaneously pressing on the hood of the car from both sides. If at the same time an uncharacteristic sound is heard from one of the wheels, the corresponding SHO is worn out or needs to be lubricated.
Identification of backlash SHO. The wheel, on which the support most likely failed, is lifted by a jack by about 30 cm. An assistant from the passenger compartment depresses the brake pedal to failure. After that, you should shake the wheel with force, first in a vertical plane up and down, then to the right and left. With the brakes locked, play will immediately appear. Even if it is insignificant, the SHO still needs to be changed. To determine the play of the ball joint, the wheel should first be shaken up and down, and then to the right and left
Inspection of ball pins. This method is relevant only for the latest VAZ 2107 models, the SHOs of which have special inspection holes for monitoring the wear of the ball pin without disassembling the support. If the pin is worn more than 6 mm, the ball joint must be replaced.

The main element of any SHO is a ball pin, the reliability of which determines the operational life of the entire assembly. A quality ball pin must meet the following requirements:

the finger must be made only of high-alloy steel;
the finger ball must necessarily undergo a carburizing (surface hardening) procedure, and the finger body must be hardened and then cooled in oil.

Other support elements are produced by cold heading followed by heat treatment.

This manufacturing technology of SHO is quite expensive. Therefore, there are only a few companies that produce high-quality supports for the VAZ 2107. These include:

Belebeevsky plant "Avtokomplekt"; Ball bearings "Belebey" are very popular with the owners of the VAZ 2107
Software "Start"; Ball bearings manufactured by Nachalo are more expensive than Belebey bearings, and it is much more difficult to find them on sale.
Pilenga (Italy). Italian SHO Pilenga - one of the most expensive and durable supports for the VAZ 2107

When choosing ball bearings for the VAZ 2107, you should beware of fakes. There are quite a few such products on the market. Some of them are made so high quality that they can mislead even a specialist. The only criterion to distinguish a fake from the original is the price. Poor-quality SHOs are half the price of real ones. However, saving on details on which the life of the driver literally depends is unacceptable.

Ball bearings on the VAZ 2107 cannot be repaired. On the first "sevens" collapsible SHOs were installed, from which it was possible to remove the worn ball pin and replace it. Modern supports do not understand. Moreover, even if the possibility of disassembly is allowed, it will still not be possible to repair the SHO, since the ball pins for the VAZ 2107 have long been discontinued.

To replace the SHO you will need:

a set of new ball bearings;
jack;
device for extruding supports from the eyes;
a set of open-end and socket wrenches;
hammer;
screwdriver with a flat blade.

Replacing ball bearings on a VAZ 2107 is carried out as follows.

Video (click to play).

Thus, technically it is quite simple to replace the VAZ 2107 ball bearings. However, in practice, considerable physical strength is required to squeeze the ball fingers out of the lugs. Therefore, any car owner should realistically assess their capabilities before starting work on replacing the SHO.