DIY vacuum cleaner brush repair

On a very good vacuum cleaner, the brushes on the nozzles have worn off from the past, and now they are poorly vacuuming carpets, can they somehow be repaired or will have to buy new nozzles.

Since the vacuum cleaner is old, the easiest way to do this is to measure the diameter of the entrance (at the place of insertion) and try to purchase or take from someone a similar nozzle with bristles. Many typical sizes, and from different manufacturers too!

I would also look at message boards, many sell unnecessary things of an unexpected nature. Including parts from old technology, and nozzles from a vacuum cleaner too. This is the most budgetary way.

And how to fix-replace the worn-out stubble? The question is rhetorical. There is no way to build it up, you can only cut it off evenly, that is, equalize the worn out and untouched places to provide a vacuum for the vacuum cleaner to work. The bristle-free attachments pull well too.

The vacuum cleaner is probably really very good. In fact, I see no point in restoring the brush. This is a replaceable element that can be purchased for relatively little money and the new brush, of course, will function much better than the one rehabilitated with your own hands.

Of course, you can find a suitable nap from some old shoe brush or the like. You can even try to fix this pile on the brush, but this will already be more problematic, you will most likely need to increase the diameter of the tube so that the pile holds well. It is better to fix it initially on some kind of tape, which can later be wound on an old brush and fixed. You will also need some kind of high-quality super glue or something into which you can solder the pile. In this case, it is already necessary to look in more detail at the brush itself and decide on the spot how to fix the bristles.

I advise you to buy a universal brush and not suffer.

Regardless of the manufacturer and type of vacuum cleaner, the main difference lies in quality, power and design.

The most important thing in a vacuum cleaner is the electric motor, which creates a vacuum and, as a result, sucks dust and various particles through special filters through which only air passes.
In different types of such devices, these filters are different, and flasks and just bags and cyclone-type vacuum cleaners.

But it is the engine and, occasionally, the electronic power (rpm) control circuit that requires the most attention in this whole device.

Do-it-yourself engine repair is not difficult to carry out if the breakdown is simple and the engine is still running but you can hear a heavy engine stroke (when turned off) or the engine starts to rattle or buzz strongly, it happens that the vacuum cleaner gets very hot in a short period of time.

The heart of the vacuum cleaner, as we have already figured out, is the motor and, as a rule, the collector.
What is such an engine?
The motor is housed in a housing where the fan impeller blades are hidden. It is of the tangential type, where air is drawn in in the center and exits through the periphery and already exits through the rear filter.
The brushes in the engine are placed in special shafts made of brass, usually carbon in the form of graphite. Over time, the brushes rub against the collector roller, their middle is ground down and they become slightly semicircular, due to which the contact area with the collector pads increases. The brushes in their shafts are pressed by springs, creating the necessary pressure of the graphite, in the process, the robots, to the collector. The brush will work until it wears off and the spring cannot properly contact the graphite with the manifold.
It is necessary to monitor the cleanliness of the collector shaft itself, clean it from carbon deposits if necessary and remove the oxide layer to a copper sheen.

The shaft is attached to the stator by two bearings of different sizes, as a rule, this is done in order to make it easier to disassemble it. The front is usually large and the back is smaller.

The shaft is carefully knocked out of the stator using any suitable tools. Then we look at the course of the bearings, because of the dusty robots they get clogged despite the presence of anthers. If necessary, the anthers are carefully removed with a thin screwdriver or an awl, washed with a jet of WD-pulleys, after which the balls must be lubricated, for example, with grease such as Litol-24 or EP-2, after which the boot is put in place and snaps into its grooves in the bearing itself.

To start some kind of repair or maintenance of the vacuum cleaner, you need to remove the case. Each model has its own methods.
First of all, all filters that impede access to the motor are removed, the housing screws are loosened, including secret ones (under the buttons, for example). Having unscrewed all the screws, you need to carefully try to disassemble the case, if this fails, take a closer look where there may still be latches or additional screws, if you do not pay attention to this, you can break the case.

Then the entire electrical installation is disconnected, as a rule, the connections are made on the connectors.
The plastic motor housing is unscrewed from the bed and the motor is then removed from its plastic housing.
In some models, it is simpler and the motor itself is fixed in the body of the vacuum cleaner in special rubber grooves-seals or screwed tightly to the general body of the vacuum cleaner.

To disassemble the engine and remove the fan impeller first of all, we will remove the front part of the casing (above the impeller). We take a thin metal object, you can use a screwdriver and gently bend it off the side of the casing so that the screwdriver goes a little into the middle, then gently push the upper part of the casing out, as a result of which the entire impeller becomes available to us.

The nut on the impeller usually has a left-hand thread (but there are exceptions) We try to unscrew it by holding the impeller with our hand, if it scrolls and in this way it is impossible to unscrew the nut, there is one great way
So .. we take a good stranded wire with a cross section of more than 1.5mm in dense rubber insulation (to prevent slipping). We push in such a wiring and wrap the collector shaft 2-3 times, turn to turn and stretch it in different directions, thereby fixing the shaft motionless.

It is most convenient to do this together, one person fixes the collector using the ends of the wire stretched to the sides, and the second unscrews the nut on the fan disk.
The method is very convenient and safe for fixing the anchor. In the same way, when reassembling, tighten the nut.

After removing the fan impeller, unscrew the housing screws; by this time, the brushes should already be removed.

Then carefully pull out the anchor, twisting the upper part slightly if necessary.

If necessary, the bearings are removed using a commercially available tool or special thread pullers. In especially severe cases, the bearing sometimes “sticks” tightly to the sleeve; a special hydraulic press is used to remove the bearings.

• bearings
• brushes
• fuse
• network wire
• no contact in the switch
• motor winding, breakage or burnout of the winding (stator or rotor)
• capacitor failure
• breakdown of the electronic circuit of the power regulator

Drop in power and suction power.
The most common cause is either a clogged filter or a defective bearing.
It is necessary to clean the filter and check the operation again, also check the operation (draft) of the vacuum cleaner without filters, since it happens that the usual cleaning of the filter does not help and it already needs to be replaced.
If the draft without filters does not give the same working draft, you will have to disassemble the vacuum cleaner, the impeller on it should easily turn with your finger without much effort. Additionally, we remove and inspect the brushes and clean the collector from carbon deposits using zero sandpaper or a piece of ordinary cloth.

In some cases, the tightness of the hose is broken, this can be both a violation of the integrity of the hose itself and the connecting pipes at the ends of the hose, the hose simply slips out of them a little.

The vacuum cleaner does not turn on.
If everything is fine with the voltage in the outlet, disassemble the vacuum cleaner and first of all inspect the fuse and the power cord, especially at the very end of the cord on the winding drum in the soldering points.
If there is a tester, we call for a contact.
The power button could break or the contact is simply broken in it, it sometimes gets clogged, again, with the help of the tester, we make sure that the button is working properly.
If all the elements have been called by the tester and the voltage comes to the engine brushes without problems, and the brushes themselves are not erased, then most likely you will have to repair the engine expensively or simply replace it, since in most cases it is more expedient to install a new motor than to repair a tired old one by rewinding.

If the vacuum cleaner worked for a long time and does not turn on then it is quite possible that the protective thermostat on the engine itself has worked as a result of overheating - in this case, there is nothing to repair, it will be enough to leave the vacuum cleaner to cool the engine.

The speed of the vacuum cleaner motor is not regulated.
The most common cause of such a malfunction is the breakdown of the triac, in which the voltage through it is not regulated but freely passes through it without any control. It is possible that this element fails, and it is possible that contact is lost on one of the legs of this element on the board.
By slightly pressing down on the speed regulator knob, you can make sure whether the regulator itself is in good working order or the contact may be broken in it and the regulator slider does not contact its site.

The vacuum cleaner emits a foreign smell and hot air.
First of all, you need to make sure that the suction inlet is not clogged, inspect the hose, check the retraction force at the inlet and whether the sound of the engine changes when you plug the inlet with your palm. In case of satisfactory operation on the part of the suction system, we can assume that the engine is malfunctioning, but most likely the brushes.

The vacuum cleaner hums and rumbles - the reason for this action is the engine, and in particular its bearings. Most likely they need additional lubrication or, if there is a large shaft around their axis, they need to be replaced with new ones.

The cord does not tighten when the button is pressed or is constantly tightened during operation - malfunction of the winding drum, perhaps the spring has burst, is weakened or, on the contrary, is too tight.
We inspect the pressure roller of the button and, if necessary, having removed the drum, we wind up or unwind the wire on the drum - changing the tension of the drum itself to the one we need.

As a rule, it is not complicated and is pretty standard in most models.

Thanks to household appliances, homeowners gain full comfort - the use of the same vacuum cleaners significantly reduces the physical activity spent on cleaning an apartment or a private house.

Meanwhile, even high-tech equipment does not last forever, which says one thing - sometime the time comes for repair or replacement. True, convenient and practical products, for example, from Samsung, quickly make users get used to working with them.

Therefore, it is the repair of Samsung vacuum cleaners that their owners see as a priority decision in relation to the complete replacement of faulty devices.

Most of the models of cleaning household appliances of the Korean company are represented by designs that are relatively simple in technical terms. Accordingly, in most cases, the repair of such products is also quite simple.

Obviously, the complexity of the repair work is fully correlated with a specific unit or part. So, it is much easier to fix a small break in a corrugated hose than to replace a broken motor bearing.

Consider the frequently occurring malfunctions of Korean-made household vacuum cleaners and possible ways to eliminate such defects at home.

It is logical to note: with all due respect to service workshops, the amount of payment for services for repairs in the service often approaches the cost of a new vacuum cleaner.

Minor defects usually do not cause a global malfunction of the device. The Samsung vacuum cleaner continues to work, but the technical parameters no longer correspond to the exemplary values.

As a result, the traction force decreases and at the same time the power consumption of the equipment increases. Accordingly, the quality of cleaning decreases, but most importantly, the risks of more serious defects appear.

Therefore, minor faults should not be ignored. On the contrary, they should be eliminated as soon as possible.

Classic defects of this kind for Samsung vacuum cleaners:

• decrease in the efficiency of the HEPA filter;
• clogging of the cyclone filter mesh;
• blocking of the brush turbine with foreign objects;
• blocking the rotation of the wheels by foreign elements;
• blockage of the rod tube;
• rupture of the corrugated hose.

Let's consider each separate group of defects in more detail.

As a rule, all existing models of Samsung cleaning equipment are equipped with multi-service filtering components.

That is, after each cleaning, the owner of the device removes the filters, rinses, blows and returns them to their place. The cyclicity is multiple.

However, the filter material cannot be thoroughly cleaned. With each cleaning, the pores of the material are clogged with microscopic particles more and more.

Finally, the moment comes when the filter loses its air transmission efficiency to 50% or less. This is already a limit that violates the technological principle of the vacuum cleaner.

The motor continues to run at full throttle, but the resistance on the suction and discharge side increases the load. Currents increase, the winding and, accordingly, the parts of the electric motor are very hot.

If you continue to operate the equipment in this state, the day is not far off when the motor will simply jam or burn out.

Which exit? Of course, complete replacement of filter elements at all stages, including the HEPA filter. Usually any type of filter material (foam rubber, porous sponge, cyprone) is available commercially.

It's a little more complicated with the HEPA material, but here you can also find a way out. That is, the user just needs to buy the right material, cut out the elements of the required size and use them instead of the material that has lost its operational quality.

Putting a homemade version of the HEPA filter is somewhat more difficult. You will need to carefully open the double mesh frame (usually the frame is made of plastic) in order to remove the filter material for replacement.

It is necessary to cut the mating area of ​​the two plates with a sharp clerical knife along the perimeter, after which, with a slight effort, divide the frame into two parts. Next, replace the HEPA sheet with a new one and glue the frame-holder again.

The same applies to the mesh filter and the motor protection filter used in cyclone models.

Both the first and the second filters are tightly clogged with dirt, by the way, through the fault of users who violate the container filling mode above the specified label. There are cases of blockage of the rod tube. Clogs are removed by cleaning.

The accessory connecting the inlet of the vacuum cleaner and the tube-rod with the working attachment - a corrugated soft hose, is damaged at the points of soft folds due to wear of the material or as a result of loads applied to this point.

Traditional points of damage are the joints of the hose with the nozzle-lock or with the nozzle of the tube-rod.

The repair process in such cases does not present any particular difficulties. It is enough to cut the hose a little further from the place of the burst and carefully remove the remnants from the inside of the branch pipe (factory fasteners are glued).

The inside of the nozzle is usually threaded just right for winding the hose. Along this thread, the cut off hose is simply screwed into the pipe and the repair can be considered complete.

Practice has shown that there is no need for any additional fasteners with the help of glue.

If a gust has formed in the central part of the corrugated hose (or, for example, you need to lengthen the accessory), in such cases it is convenient to use a piece of rubber tube from the bicycle tire.

In terms of size and taking into account the tight fit, such a material is ideal. Previously, parts of the hose are cut and glued, and then a rubber coupling from a bicycle tire is pulled over the created joint. A sleeve with a width of 30-40 mm also "sits" on the glue.

These malfunctions are inherent in mechanisms such as the brush turbine, and also (occasionally) the wheel chassis. Both units have rotating parts - shafts, gears, rings. During cleaning, hair, threads and even thin small metal wires inevitably fall into the area of ​​these knots.

These particles of debris wind up on the shafts of gears, rings, wheels and over time accumulate in such a large amount that they completely block rotational movement.

Such moments also affect the operation of the vacuum cleaner, increase the load on the engine, force the user to increase traction forces on the corrugated hose, which is damaged in places of folds.

In this condition, the first step is to unblock the movement of the nodes. The turbo brush must be disassembled (disassembly is provided by the manufacturer) and the inner area must be thoroughly cleaned.

To access the interior of the large wheels of the vacuum cleaner, you will have to remove the casing by unscrewing a few screws from the bottom. Both actions are quite accessible for doing it yourself.

Repair of serious defects usually requires specialist intervention. However, here, too, some of the faults are available for DIY repair. For example, the owner can easily replace a faulty power switch himself.

A faulty power switch does not allow the device to be turned on, or when turned on, there is no fixation of the operating mode. In the first case, the reaction when the button is activated is zero.

In the second case, the vacuum cleaner starts when the key is pressed, but turns off immediately when the user releases the button.

It is easy to check the efficiency of the power switch with a tester - an electromechanical device. Inoperative button does not create contact between terminals in any position.

A non-latching button creates contact only in the depressed position. By connecting the tester probes to the button terminals, you can check the functionality of all positions.

In addition to the network switching, the supply cable of the vacuum cleaner may also be faulty. The power cord is checked with the same tester.

Checking the power cord also involves testing the power outlets that the owner is using, while running the vacuum cleaner.

Many Samsung models are equipped with a suction power control module. In fact, this module is the speed regulator of the shaft of the electric motor installed inside the vacuum cleaner.

The module is an electronic circuit (relatively simple) based on thyristors.

A module malfunction - usually a thyristor failure - entails either the inability to start the vacuum cleaner, or a complete inability to regulate the performance of the device.

In any case, disassembly of the vacuum cleaner, dismantling of the regulation module and replacement of components that are out of order are required.

It is quite problematic here to work with your own hands without certain skills, for example, the ability to distinguish a resistor from a capacitor or the ability to hold a soldering iron in your hands.However, if desired, these qualities of an electronics engineer are easy to master.

A complex malfunction, of course, is the failure of the electric motor of the vacuum cleaner. As a rule, in the structure of modern household appliances manufactured under the Samsung brand, axial-type motors are used, the rotational speed of which reaches 20,000 rpm.

Rotation at such a high frequency is accompanied by significant loads on the journal bearings. Therefore, one of the most common malfunctions of Samsung vacuum cleaners is a defect in the bearings. This is usually accompanied by an increased noise of the device, sometimes very loud.

Do-it-yourself work on replacing vacuum cleaner bearings is difficult, but quite doable. However, initially you will have to disassemble all the contents of the construction of the harvesting equipment in order to get to the motor.

Of course, in the process of disassembling the vacuum cleaner, it is recommended to fix the sequence of installing the parts, writing down on paper, or you can take pictures with a smartphone.

On a dismantled engine, you will need to remove the contact brushes and the impeller guard. This process is relatively straightforward.

Contact brushes are usually fixed with one screw and can be easily removed from the mounting recesses. On the impeller casing (outer half), carefully bend the four rolling points and apply some force to pull off the casing.

The most difficult process is unscrewing the nut that secures the impeller to the motor shaft. Craftsmen "with their own hands" use different methods for these purposes:

• clamp the engine manifold with wooden chocks;
• an insulated wire is wound around the collector;
• sawing a groove along the end of the shaft.

As a result, the impeller can be removed. Further - "a matter of technology" - the shaft is removed by the traction force, and the defective bearings change. Then reassemble in reverse order.

Electrical defects of motors - breakage, turn-to-turn short circuit of the winding, collector burn-through - are relatively rare phenomena, but they also take place. In such cases, usually the electric motor is changed to another (new) instance.

On the topic of repairing a corrugated hose, you can watch a video where the author talks about all the nuances of this simple operation for a home master:

The method of cutting a groove along the end of the shaft when disassembling the engine from a vacuum cleaner is discussed in detail in the following video: