Do-it-yourself vacuum cleaner brush repair

On a very good vacuum cleaner, the brushes on the nozzles have worn out from time immemorial and now they vacuum the carpets poorly, is it possible to somehow repair them or will I have to buy new nozzles.

Since the vacuum cleaner is old, the easiest way to do this is to measure the diameter of the inlet (at the place of installation) and try to purchase or take from someone a similar nozzle with bristles. Many standard sizes, and from different manufacturers too!

I would also look at bulletin boards, many sell unnecessary items of unexpected properties. Including parts from old equipment, and nozzles from a vacuum cleaner too. This is the most budget way.

And how to fix-replace worn-out bristles? The question is rhetorical. You can’t build it up in any way, you can only cut it evenly, that is, equalize worn-out places and untouched ones to provide a vacuum for the vacuum cleaner to work. Nozzles without bristles also “pull” well.

The vacuum cleaner is probably really very good. In fact, I see no reason to restore the brush. This is a replaceable element that can be purchased for relatively little money and a new brush, of course, will function much better than a rehabilitated one with your own hands.

Of course, you can find a suitable pile from some old shoe brush or similar things. You can even try to fix this pile on the brush, but this will already be more problematic, you will most likely need to increase the diameter of the tube so that the pile holds well. It is better to fix it initially on some kind of tape, which can later be wound on an old brush and fixed. You will also need some quality super glue or something that you can solder the pile into. In this case, it is already necessary to look in more detail at the brush itself and decide on the spot how exactly to fix the bristles.

I advise you to still buy a universal brush and not suffer.

Regardless of the manufacturers and types of vacuum cleaner, the main difference lies in the quality, power and design.

The most important thing in a vacuum cleaner is an electric motor that creates a vacuum and, as a result, sucks dust and various particles through special filters through which only air passes.
In different types of such devices, these filters are different, and flasks and just bags and cyclonic vacuum cleaners.

But it is the engine and, occasionally, the electronic power (speed) control circuit that requires the most attention in this whole device.

Do-it-yourself engine repair is not difficult to carry out if the breakdown is simple and the engine is still running but the engine is heavy (when turned off) or the engine starts to rumble or hum strongly, sometimes the vacuum cleaner gets very hot in a short period of time.

The heart of the vacuum cleaner, as we have already figured out, is the engine and, as a rule, the collector.
What is such an engine?
The engine is housed in a housing where the fan impeller blades are hidden. It is of a tangential type, where air is drawn in in the center and exits through the periphery and through the rear filter is already out.
The brushes in the engine are placed in special mines made of brass, as a rule, this is ordinary carbon in the form of graphite. Over time, the brushes are rubbed against the collector roller, their middle is ground off and they become slightly semicircular, due to which the area of ​​​​contact with the collector areas increases. The brushes in their mines are pressed by springs, creating the necessary pressure of graphite, in the process of robots, to the collector. The brush will work until that time until it is worn out and the spring cannot properly contact the graphite to the commutator.
It is necessary to monitor the cleanliness of the collector shaft itself, clean it from carbon deposits if necessary, and remove the oxide layer to a copper sheen.

The shaft is attached to the stator on two bearings of different sizes, as a rule, this is done in order to make it easier to disassemble it. The front is usually large, and the rear is smaller.

The shaft is carefully knocked out of the stator using any suitable tool. Then we look at the course of the bearings, because of the dusty robots they become clogged despite the presence of anthers. If necessary, the anthers are carefully removed with a thin screwdriver or an awl, washed with a WD-pattern, after which the balls must be lubricated, for example, with Litol-24 or EP-2 type grease, after which the anther is put in place and snaps into its grooves in the bearing itself.

To start some kind of repair or maintenance of the vacuum cleaner, you need to remove the case. Each model has its own methods.
First of all, all filters that make it difficult to access the motor are removed, the case screws are unscrewed, including hidden ones (under the buttons, for example). Having unscrewed all the screws, you need to carefully try to disassemble the case, if this fails, take a closer look at where else there may be latches or additional screws, if you do not pay attention to this, you can break the case.

Then the entire electrical installation is disconnected, as a rule, the connections are made on the connectors.
The plastic housing of the motor is unscrewed from the frame, after which the motor is removed from its plastic housing.
In some models, it is simpler and the motor itself is fixed in the vacuum cleaner body in special rubber grooves-seals or is screwed tightly to the general body of the vacuum cleaner.

To disassemble the engine and remove the fan impeller First of all, we will remove the front part of the casing (above the impeller). We take a thin metal object, you can use a screwdriver and carefully bend it from the side of the casing so that the screwdriver goes a little into the middle, then with a gentle movement we push out the upper part of the casing, as a result of which the entire impeller becomes available to us.

The nut on the impeller usually has a left-hand thread (but there are exceptions) We try to unscrew it while holding the impeller with your hand, if it scrolls and you cannot unscrew the nut in this way, there is one great way
So .. we take a good stranded wire with a cross section of more than 1.5mm in dense rubber insulation (to prevent slipping). We push such a wiring and wrap the collector shaft 2-3 times, turn to turn and stretch in different directions, thereby fixing the shaft motionless.

It is most convenient to do this together, one person fixes the collector using the ends of the wire stretched to the sides, and the second unscrews the nut on the fan disk.
The method is very convenient and safe for fixing the anchor. In the same way, when reassembling, tighten the nut.

After removing the fan impeller, unscrew the housing screws, by this time the brushes should already be removed.

Then we carefully pull out the anchor, if necessary, twisting the upper part a little.

If necessary, the bearings are removed using an available tool or special threaded pullers. In especially severe cases, sometimes the bearing “sticks” tightly with the bushing, a special hydraulic press is used to remove the bearings.

• bearings
• brushes
• fuse
• network wire
• no contact in the switch
• motor windings, breakage or burnout of the winding (stator or rotor)
• capacitor failure
• failure of the electronic circuit of the power regulator

Loss of power and suction.
The most common cause is either clogged filters or bearing failure.
The filters must be cleaned and the operation checked again, also the operation (draft) of the vacuum cleaner without filters should be checked, as it happens that the usual cleaning of the filter does not help and it already needs to be replaced.
If the traction without filters does not give the same working traction, you will have to disassemble the vacuum cleaner, the impeller on it should easily turn with your finger without much effort. Additionally, we remove and inspect the brushes and clean the collector from soot, using sandpaper or a piece of ordinary cloth.

In some cases, the tightness of the hose is broken, this can be both a violation of the integrity of the hose itself and the connecting pipes at the ends of the hose, the hose simply slips out of them a little.

The vacuum cleaner does not turn on.
If everything is fine with the voltage at the outlet, we disassemble the vacuum cleaner and first of all inspect the fuse and power cord, especially at the very end of the cord on the winding drum at the soldering points.
If there is a tester, we call for a contact.
The power button could break, or the contact is simply broken in it, it sometimes gets clogged, again with the help of a tester we make sure that the button is working.
If all the elements were rung by the tester and the voltage comes to the motor brushes without any problems, and the brushes themselves are not erased, then most likely you will have an expensive engine repair or simply replacing it, since in most cases it is more expedient to install a new motor than to repair a tired old one by rewinding.

If the vacuum cleaner worked for a long time and does not turn on then it is quite possible that the protective thermal relay on the engine itself has worked as a result of overheating - in this case, there is nothing to repair, it will be enough to leave the vacuum cleaner to cool the engine.

Vacuum cleaner motor speed not adjustable.
The most common cause of such a malfunction is a breakdown of the triac, in which the voltage through it is not regulated, but freely passes through it without any control. Possible failure of this element and possibly loss of contact on one of the legs of this element on the board.
By slightly pressing down on the speed control knob, you can make sure that the regulator itself is in good condition or that the contact may be broken in it and the regulator slider will not contact its site.

Vacuum cleaner emits odor and hot air.
First of all, you need to make sure that the suction inlet is not clogged, inspect the hose, check the retraction force at the inlet and whether the sound of the engine changes when the inlet is plugged with the palm of your hand. In the case of satisfactory operation on the part of the suction system, we can assume a malfunction of the engine, and most likely the brushes.

The vacuum cleaner hums and rumbles - the reason for this action is the engine, and in particular its bearings. Most likely they need additional lubrication or, if there is a large shaft around their axis, they need to be replaced with new ones.

The cord does not tighten when pressing the button or constantly tightens during operation - violation of the winding drum, the spring may have burst, weakened or vice versa is too tight.
We inspect the pressure roller of the button and, if necessary, by removing the drum, we wind or unwind the wire on the drum - changing the tension of the drum itself to the one we need.

As a rule, it is not complicated and in most models it is quite standard.

Thanks to household appliances, home owners gain full comfort - the use of the same vacuum cleaners significantly reduces the physical load spent on cleaning an apartment or a private house.

Meanwhile, even high-tech equipment is not eternal, which means one thing - once the time comes for repair or replacement. True, convenient and practical products, for example, from Samsung, quickly make users get used to working with them.

Therefore, it is the repair of Samsung vacuum cleaners that their owners see as a priority solution in relation to the complete replacement of faulty devices.

Most of the models of cleaning household appliances of the Korean company are represented by designs that are relatively simple in technical terms. Accordingly, in most cases, the repair of such products is also quite simple.

Obviously, the complexity of the repair work is fully correlated with a specific unit or part. So, fixing a small leak in a corrugated hose is much easier than replacing a broken motor bearing.

Consider the frequently manifested malfunctions of Korean-made household vacuum cleaners and possible ways to eliminate such defects at home.

It is logical to note: with all due respect to the service workshops, the amount of payment for services for repairs in the service often approaches the cost of a new vacuum cleaner.

Minor defects usually do not cause a global malfunction of the device. The Samsung vacuum cleaner continues to work, but the technical parameters no longer correspond to exemplary values.

As a result, the traction force is reduced and at the same time the power consumption of the equipment increases. Accordingly, the quality of cleaning decreases, but most importantly, the risks of more serious defects increase.

Therefore, minor faults should not be ignored. On the contrary, they should be eliminated as soon as possible.

Classic defects of this kind for Samsung vacuum cleaners:

• reduced efficiency of the HEPA filter;
• clogging of the cyclone filter mesh;
• blocking of the brush turbine by foreign objects;
• blocking the rotation of the wheels by foreign elements;
• clogging of the tube-rod;
• corrugated hose rupture.

Let's consider each separate group of defects in more detail.

As a rule, all existing models of cleaning equipment from Samsung are equipped with filter components for multiple maintenance.

That is, after each cleaning, the owner of the device removes the filters, rinses, blows and returns to their place. The cycle is multiple.

However, the filter material cannot be cleaned completely. With each cleaning, the pores of the material are clogged with microscopic particles more and more.

Finally, the moment comes when the filter loses its air transmission efficiency to 50% or less. This is already the limit that violates the technological principle of the vacuum cleaner.

The motor continues to run at full power, but the resistance on the suction and discharge side increases the load. Currents increase, the winding and, accordingly, the parts of the electric motor become very hot.

If you continue to operate the equipment in this state, the day is not far off when the motor simply jams or burns out.

Which exit? Of course, the complete replacement of filter elements at all stages, including the HEPA filter. Typically, any type of filter material (foam rubber, porous sponge, siprone) is commercially available.

A little more difficult with the HEPA material, but here you can find a way out. That is, it is enough for the user to buy a suitable material, cut out elements of the desired size and use them to replace the material that has lost its operational quality.

Installing a homemade version of the HEPA filter is somewhat more difficult. You will need to carefully open the frame double mesh (usually the frame is made of plastic) in order to remove the filter material for replacement.

It is necessary to cut around the perimeter with a sharp clerical knife the mating area of ​​​​the two plates, after which, with a slight effort, divide the frame into two parts. Next, replace the HEPA sheet with a new one and glue the frame-holder again.

The same applies to the mesh filter and the motor protection filter, which are used in cyclone models.

Both the first and second filters are tightly clogged with dirt, by the way, through the fault of users who violate the mode of filling the container above the specified mark. There are cases of clogging of the tube-rod. Eliminate blockages by cleaning.

The accessory connecting the inlet of the vacuum cleaner and the tube-rod with the working nozzle, a corrugated soft hose, is damaged at the points of soft folds due to wear of the material or as a result of the loads applied to this point.

The traditional points of damage are the joints of the hose with a locking nozzle or with a tube-rod nozzle.

The repair process in such cases is not particularly difficult. It is enough to cut off the hose a little further from the place of the gust and carefully remove the remnants from the inside of the pipe (the factory mount is glued).

The inside of the nozzle is usually threaded exactly to fit the hose coil. On this thread, the cut off hose is simply screwed into the nozzle and the repair can be considered completed on this.

Practice has shown that there is no need for any additional fastenings with glue.

If a gust has formed in the central part of the corrugated hose (or, for example, you need to lengthen the accessory), in such cases it is convenient to use a piece of rubber tube from a bicycle tire.

In terms of size and taking into account the tight fit, this material fits perfectly. Beforehand, parts of the hose are cut and glued, and then a rubber coupling from a bicycle tire is pulled over the created joint. A coupling 30-40 mm wide also "sits" on the glue.

These faults are inherent in such mechanisms as the brush turbine, and also (occasionally) in the wheel chassis. Both units have rotating parts - shafts, gears, rings. During cleaning, hair, threads and even thin small metal wires inevitably get into the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthese knots.

These particles of debris are wound on the shafts of gears, rings, wheels and over time accumulate in such a large amount that they completely block the rotational movement.

Such moments also affect the operation of the vacuum cleaner, increase the load on the engine, force the user to increase traction on the corrugated hose, which is damaged at the folds.

In this state, the first step is to unblock the movement of the nodes. The turbo brush must be disassembled (disassembly is provided by the manufacturer) and the interior area thoroughly cleaned.

To access the inner area of ​​the large wheels of the vacuum cleaner, you will have to remove the case by unscrewing a few screws from the bottom. Both actions are quite affordable to do it yourself.

Repair of serious defects, as a rule, requires the intervention of specialists. However, here, too, some of the faults are available for do-it-yourself repair. For example, the owner may well replace a faulty power switch himself.

A malfunction of the power switch does not allow the device to be turned on, or there is no fixation of the operating mode when turned on. In the first case, the reaction when the button is activated is zero.

In the second case, the vacuum cleaner starts when the button is pressed, but immediately turns off when the user releases the button.

The operability of the power switch is easy to check with a tester - an electromechanical device. A non-working button does not create contact between the terminals in any position.

A push button only makes contact when pressed. By connecting the tester probes to the button terminals, you can check the performance of all positions.

Along with the mains switching, the supply cable of the vacuum cleaner can also be faulty. The power cord is checked with the same tester.

Checking the power cord also involves testing the power outlets that the owner uses, including the vacuum cleaner in operation.

Many Samsung models are equipped with a suction power control module. In fact, this module is a speed controller for the motor shaft installed inside the vacuum cleaner.

The module is an electronic circuit (relatively simple) based on thyristors.

A module malfunction - usually a thyristor failure - entails either the inability to start the vacuum cleaner, or the complete inability to regulate the performance of the device.

In any case, it is required to disassemble the vacuum cleaner, dismantle the regulation module and replace the components that have failed.

It is rather problematic to work with your own hands here without certain skills, for example, the ability to distinguish a resistor from a capacitor or the ability to hold a soldering iron in your hands.However, if desired, these qualities of an electronics engineer are easy to master.

A complex malfunction, of course, is the failure of the electric motor of the vacuum cleaner. As a rule, as part of the designs of modern household appliances manufactured under the Samsung brand, axial-type motors are used, the rotational speed of which reaches 20,000 rpm.

Rotation at such a high frequency is accompanied by significant loads on the support bearings. Therefore, one of the frequent malfunctions of Samsung vacuum cleaners is a bearing defect. Which is usually accompanied by increased noise of the device, sometimes very strong.

The work of replacing the bearings of a vacuum cleaner with your own hands is difficult, but quite doable. However, initially you will have to disassemble the entire contents of the design of the harvesting equipment in order to get to the motor.

Of course, in the process of disassembling the vacuum cleaner, it is recommended to fix the sequence of installation of parts by writing on paper, or you can take pictures with a smartphone.

On a dismantled engine, it will be necessary to remove the contact brushes and the impeller casing. This process is relatively easy.

Contact brushes, as a rule, are fastened with one screw and can be easily removed from the installation niches. On the impeller casing (outer half), you need to carefully bend the four rolling points and, using some force, pull the casing off.

The most difficult process is unscrewing the nut that secures the impeller to the motor shaft. Do-it-yourself craftsmen use different methods for these purposes:

• clamp the engine manifold with wooden chocks;
• wind an insulated wire around the collector;
• cut a groove along the end of the shaft.

As a result, the impeller can be removed. Further - "a matter of technology" - the shaft is removed by traction force, and defective bearings are changed. Then reassemble in reverse order.

Electrical defects of motors - open circuit, interturn short circuit of the winding, burn-through of the collector - are relatively rare phenomena, but they also occur. In such cases, usually the electric motor is changed to another (new) instance.

On the topic of corrugated hose repair, you can watch a video where the author talks about all the nuances of this simple operation for a home master:

The method of cutting a groove along the end of the shaft when disassembling the engine from a vacuum cleaner is discussed in detail in the following video: