Do-it-yourself gazelle do-it-yourself instrument panel repair

In detail: do-it-yourself gazelle instrument panel repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Greetings to all! I haven’t written anything for a long time, and there wasn’t time, either. a lot of work. Of course not without surprises for the new year from my swallow. It all started with the fact that two weeks before the new year, the backlight bulbs on my instrument cluster gradually began to burn out. The last straw of my patience was when 12/30/2014. after ordering, I came home and at the entrance to the house, the backlight of the odometer LCD display burned out. Parked the car and went to prepare for the holidays. After the new year, I don’t remember if it was the second or third of January, I went to the car, took off the instrument cluster and returned home. Without hesitation, I dismembered it into anything possible =))
Took off the dials

Removed the LCD displays of the odometer and hours

That's what this miracle consists of

And here is an idiotic color filter. Always pissed me off. I don't know why, but I don't like the green backlight

Having cut out the inside in the case, it remains to pick up the board

For a long time I rummaged in my LED wealth, choosing a board for LCD display cases, but not picking up anything suitable, I decided to make it from a circuit board, because. draw, poison, tinker, etc. it was hard and long. I made such blanks from the montage

Without hesitation soldered the LEDs

I tried on how it will shine in the case, but without this green light filter. Looks great =)

The second one did the same as the first one and, as they say, put it all back on the board by connecting it all through the LED driver =)

I thought I'd end here, but once I figured everything out, I moved on. I peeled off the light filter left and right, and borrowed it from my wife with the help of nail polish remover, removed the green coating and glued it back =)

Video (click to play).

Further, I also cut out two boards from the circuit board under the instrument cluster housing

Soldered the LEDs. I did the same for the right one, but I forgot to take a picture of it, because there was more fuss with her. On the right side, I implemented backlighting up to 3000 turns white, from 3000 to 4000 yellow, and then everything is red =)

For some reason I can't post more pictures, I don't know why. Read on for the sequel!

How to wind up a speedometer (mileage) in a Gazelle-

Image - Do-it-yourself gazelle instrument panel repair

I also got a flicker on the battery and oil pressure. sorted out. the oil arrow was put in place and still it again points in the other direction

Image - Do-it-yourself gazelle instrument panel repair

Hello, I have a gazelle business device, all the arrows do not work, you know the reason

Image - Do-it-yourself gazelle instrument panel repair

oil and temperature I can’t find the wires, what can I do, tell me, Volga 3110

Image - Do-it-yourself gazelle instrument panel repair

hello friends, such a thing is here, I put the 402 engine, I don’t know how to bring the wires to the sensors, the engine used to be an injector,

Image - Do-it-yourself gazelle instrument panel repair

I changed the speedometer because of the odometer on my 3110 twice in 12 years and the pressure didn’t fly off, but I had to replace the fuel gauge. Interestingly, I bought almost the same in the store, but didn’t fit at all)) and adjust the arrow by adding gasoline to the tank) The store said that there are at least two varieties of this tidy.

Image - Do-it-yourself gazelle instrument panel repair

The instrument cluster of a Gazelle car can be two types: old and new, electronic. Like on most other cars, it includes four instruments (speedometer, tachometer, coolant temperature gauge, fuel gauge) and control lamps, twelve of them. A printed circuit board is installed on the inside of the case, the leads of which go to two plugs: white (X1) and red (X2).

Options for a complete failure in the operation of the instrument cluster of a Gazelle car, two: the first option, when the arrows of all devices lie at zero and do not react to turning the key in the ignition; the second option, when the instrument arrows do not lie at zero, but, on the contrary, go off scale. Of course, the ideal option would be to check the non-working instrument cluster on the stand, but it can only be found in a specialized workshop, which are not so many in the vast territory of Russia.

If gauges are at zero, then what can the driver do in this situation? Most likely, in this case, the contact in the circuit from the battery to the output "87" of the ignition switch unloading relay is broken. Therefore, he will have to check the safety of the fuses, the condition of the pads included in this electrical circuit and the connection of the instrument cluster to ground. On the white block (X1) of the instrument panel, the ground wire goes to plug 1, and on the red block (X2), the ground wire goes to plug 3.

If the above actions did not give any result, then again there are two outputs: either, you will have to replace the instrument cluster by purchasing a new one; or try to independently check the printed circuit board for breaks. True, the cost of a new instrument cluster is quite high, more than 10 thousand rubles. So you can try to restore it, although the manufacturer believes that the instrument cluster cannot be repaired. Often the peeling of circuit board tracks is due to strong pressure on the pad connector when they are assembled. Therefore, breaks in the tracks, you can try to solder in order to restore the instrument panel to working capacity.

The cause of the instruments going off scale may be a malfunction of the controller of the electronic control unit Mikas 10.3, this malfunction occurs more often in the cold season. In this case, it is necessary to carry out diagnostics and the error that has arisen, erase it by updating the software to a more recent serial version. Also, a similar malfunction may appear after the firmware of the controller.

To control the systems, the GAZ car is equipped with a combination of instruments in which control devices are installed: a voltage gauge, a tachometer, a speedometer, an engine temperature gauge, an oil pressure gauge, a fuel level gauge and signaling devices. The connection of the contacts of the instrument cluster is shown in the electrical diagrams below, and you can see the location of the electrical connectors in the photographs. The information is provided as a guide to do-it-yourself troubleshooting and do-it-yourself instrument panel replacement.

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1 Coolant temperature sensor
2 Selection of emergency coolant temperature
3 Emergency low engine oil pressure
4 Oil pressure sensor
5 Fuel level sensor
6 ———-
7 ———-
8 Open bus doors
9 ———-
10 Open interior doors, hood or trunk
11 ———
12 ———
13 Malfunction of the electronic brake force regulator (EBD)

1 Battery
2 Switching on the starboard turn signal lamps
3 Switching on the lamps of the turn signal indicator of the left side
4 Applying the parking brake
5 High beams
6 Switching on the front fog lamps
7 Gearbox illumination
8 Turning on side lights
9 Turning on the rear fog lights
10 ———
11 Turning on the center differential lock
12 Downshifts
13 Oil pressure sensor type

1 Housing for analog signals
2 Ignition
3 Corps
4 Tachometer high voltage input
5 Low voltage tachometer input
6 Turn on low beam headlights
7 Battery discharge
8 Ignitions
9 Low brake fluid level
10 Speed ​​sensor
11 Speedometer output to on-board computer
12 Activate heated rear window
13 Malfunction of anti-lock braking system (ABS)

1 Diagnostic indicator(-)
2 Signaling device for diagnostics (+) and activation of engine preheating (+)
3 Brake lining wear
4 Turn on engine preheating (-)
5 ————-
6 ————-
7 ————-
8 ————-
9 —————
10 ————-
11 Low washer fluid level
12 Low coolant level
13 Low engine oil level

The pin assignment of instrument clusters of the 38.3801 family in various versions is shown in the table:

Many car owners of a Gazelle or Volga car with an old-style instrument panel tend to change it to a new-style instrument panel, in which most of the indicators have been replaced with modern LEDs, and such an instrument panel looks much prettier and brighter.

So, to remove the instrument cluster, first remove the lining by unscrewing the four screws. Then unscrew the four screws securing the combination; disconnect electric sockets and remove a combination of devices. Repair the instrument cluster by block replacement of faulty instruments. To replace devices, remove the protective glass and unscrew the nuts securing the defective device on the reverse side.

The reason why many drivers install the Gazelle Business dashboard is that it looks better. The second reason why you should buy this particular version of the panel is the functionality and an increased number of opportunities to monitor the performance of the car.

The euro type panel has 2 large dials - a speedometer and a tachometer, as well as 2 small ones, which show the amount of gasoline and the temperature of the coolant. The rest of the information about the state of the nodes and the errors that have occurred is displayed using the burning signaling devices in the middle of the panel. A simpler design significantly relieves the driver's attention.

Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal on the car battery. Unscrew the fastening screws and remove the upholstery of the front pillar. Gently pull out the extension, first prying it out with a thin screwdriver. Remove the cover of the safety blocks and unscrew the screws fixing the blocks. After that, carefully pull out the fuse boxes, making sure that the plug-in sockets come out of the instrument panel. Use a screwdriver to unscrew the two screws located in the antenna visor. After that, remove the two plugs that are under the petals of the wipers and turn signals, and remove the visor. The Gazelle dashboard itself rests on 4 self-tapping screws.

Loosen the screws and pull out the panel. To pull out the shield, remove the four plugs.

Carefully remove the steering column by removing the instrument panel reinforcement and steering column shrouds. Disconnect the return spring. Then remove the side upholstery and nozzle hoses.

Following this, remove the plastic fastening clamps, and then the wiring harnesses. With a little effort, pull the Gazelle dashboard towards you. The task was solved: the instrument panel was dismantled.

Remove all mounting screws and bolts very carefully, because otherwise, if you apply more force, you can damage the instrument panel, which will spoil its appearance.

When dismantling the Gazelle dashboard, remember (or better take a picture) the order of connecting the wires to the switches. If you connect the wiring incorrectly, the car will not function correctly. For example, the accuracy of instrument readings and other equally important parameters depend on the correct wiring connection.

  • Replacing native instrument lighting on the Gazelle

You will need flat and Phillips screwdrivers.

1. Turn out three screws of fastening of a deflector of an obduv of a windshield...

4. ... and remove the left nozzle of the ventilation and heating system.

5. Remove the right nozzle in the same way.

6. Pry with a screwdriver and remove the rear window heating switch from the console overlay.

7. Disconnect the wiring harness connector from the rear window heating switch.

9.Remove the pins of the storage compartment cover from the holes in the console trim and remove the cover.

10. Turn out four screws of fastening of an overlay of the console.

12. ... and remove the container from the instrument panel (or remove the radio if it is installed).

13. Disconnect the audio system harness pads.

14. Turn out two screws of fastening of an overlay of the console located on sides of a window under a radio tape recorder.

15. Remove the console overlay, overcoming the resistance of the spring holders in its upper part.

16. Squeeze out from the back ...

17. ... and remove the alarm switch.

18. Press the clamp of the wiring harness block ...

19. ... and disconnect the block from the switch.

20. Disconnect the wiring harness pads from the clock ...

21. ... from the heater motor switch ...

22. ... and from the heater control unit.

24. ... and remove the clock from the console overlay.

25. Remove the four screws securing the heater control unit to the console overlay ...

27. Turn out two screws of fastening of the central nozzle of system of ventilation to an overlay of the console.

28. Press the four latches on top ...

29. ... and four retainers below the nozzle ...

31. Remove the screw securing the fuse and relay box ...

33. Disconnect the wiring harness block from the glove box illumination switch.

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34. Turn out the screw of fastening of the switch...

36. Pry off the glove box light with a screwdriver and remove it from the instrument panel.

37. Wring out a clamp and disconnect a block of a plait of wires from a plafond.

38. Remove the two screws securing the left air duct of the ventilation system ...

40. Remove the right air duct in the same way.

41. Remove the two screws securing the air distribution damper gearmotor, remove the gearmotor ...

42. ... and disconnect the wiring harness block.

43. Turn out two screws of fastening of an air line of heating of legs …

44. ... and remove the air line.

45. Turn out two screws of fastening of the distributor of air heating...

46. ​​... and remove the distributor.

47. Assemble the instrument panel in the reverse order of disassembly.

Is it worth it to install a new Gazelle instrument panel in a car, or is the old panel quite suitable for use? The question is quite common, especially among those drivers who have had the opportunity to upgrade their car a little. Installing a new thing is worth it, but how much it will cost is another question.

Classic Gazelle dashboard

The instrument panel performs one function - informational. In a small area in the dashboard of the car, all the instruments with indicators of the operation of the car are placed, which is both good and not very good. While the driver is looking for an indicator, an indicator of speed, he is distracted from the road, creating the conditions for an emergency. Nevertheless, most Gazelle users eventually get used to the appearance of the panel and already intuitively inspect one or another part of it for information.

The standard panel on most modifications of the Gazelle looks like 3-5 round dials surrounded by several signaling devices. The main sensors — speedometer and tachometer are large. Image - Do-it-yourself gazelle instrument panel repair

The speedometer is always located in the center, as this is the main instrument that the driver is guided by. The top three large devices most often include a coolant temperature sensor. The remaining dials are either the amount of gasoline, or the charge of the battery, less often - the amount of oil. All the indicators that the driver needs can also look like warning lights. Their indicators light up from time to time. The devices are placed compactly, they do not interfere with each other.

The reason why many drivers install the Gazelle Business dashboard is simple - it looks better. The second reason why you should buy this particular version of the panel is the functionality and an increased number of opportunities to monitor the performance of the car. Image - Do-it-yourself gazelle instrument panel repair

Gazelle business dashboard design

The euro type panel has 2 large dials - a speedometer and a tachometer, as well as 2 small ones, which show the amount of gasoline and the temperature of the coolant. The rest of the information about the state of the nodes and the errors that have occurred is displayed using the burning signaling devices in the middle of the panel. A simpler design significantly relieves the driver's attention.

Gazelle car models

The disadvantage of such a panel is that on most Gazelles you will have to sweat a little when connected. The pinout diagram of the device is included, so there will be problems with the connection if you have not encountered such work before. You will also have to add a few terminals, and also change a few contacts so that all devices and sensors work correctly.