Do-it-yourself panel house repair

Hello! Tell me, please, where to start and consistently reconstruct the old panel house. It so happened that there is no way to put a new one. I decided to remake the old switchboard, installed by my grandmother on the site. In addition to it, on the site there is also a residential change house for 2 rooms with an entrance hall, there is a separate shower with a dressing room, wide, large. To begin with, I wanted to add a shower to the change house, moving it close to it and completing the toilet. It would turn out such a small house with amenities. For now, live in it and quietly reconstruct the old panel house. The house consists of one room - 20 sq. meters, kitchen - meters - 10 square meters. meters. I would like to complete a small veranda, divide a large room into 2 rooms and lengthen the kitchen, put a small toilet and shower there. Tell me the sequence of work and the use of appropriate materials for this. Thanks in advance for your reply.

Alexander, Moscow.

Hi Alexander from Moscow!

Well, you threw questions!

Without a detailed inspection of the location of all your buildings, it is difficult to answer them.

The fact that you are planning not immediately, but gradually to reconstruct your grandmother's inheritance, is the right idea.

Do you know what our clergy do when they return destroyed churches? First, they will repair a small corner of a large church with modest money and with the involvement of the most active parishioners. And immediately they begin to hold church services in it. And in parallel, they continue to repair the rest of the premises, the benefit and money begin to come from their activities. And in the end everything changes.

This example is for comparison with your renovation plans. Do the same, you can't go wrong.

According to the available funds, the necessary building material should be purchased. You will need river or quarry sand. In an amount of about 5 - 7 cubic meters. Lot? No, it costs relatively inexpensively, but transport, each of its walkers, is decent money. Therefore, it is easier to immediately bring with a margin. It will be needed for filling under the supports of your buildings, under the paths, for the preparation of cement mortar, and the remaining sand, if it remains, of course, for agricultural and other needs.

Cement, if needed in further construction, is bought immediately before its use. Since, during storage, it can quickly turn into a dense mass unsuitable for further work with it. In any case, if the bag is opened, then it should be wrapped with plastic wrap. So it will last longer without contact with air moisture.

In addition, you will need industrial wood. In its quality, pine is most often used in the form of the most popular lumber - this is a beam with a section of 100/100 millimeters, a section of 50/50 millimeters, a 150/50 edged board; 100/50; 150/25 millimeters. I cannot predict the amount of material you need, it is calculated strictly individually. Offhand, without pretending to be the slightest accuracy, I’ll say that at least 4-6 pieces of large-section timber may be needed, about a dozen of small-section boards, 10 pieces of large-section boards, and three to four dozen of small section. (All - based on a 6-meter length).

If lumber remains in small quantities, it can always be used for household needs. Although practice shows that more often it is always lacking.

For all kinds of wall cladding, ceilings, partitions, you will need lining. It is sold in packs of 10 pieces.It is clear that it is necessary to consider the area of ​​​​future building elements and only after that buy a lining. Most often they buy it in various lengths. Let's say half a three-meter and half 2.5 or 2.7 meters each. This is dictated by the fact that in different places it requires a different length and so there will be less inevitable waste. And from longer boards, you can always make shorter ones. They always try to adapt longer ones first, and only then they build everything else from scraps.

/ Remember that the width of a standard lining is usually 0.087 meters. / The lining, again, depending on the thickness of the wallet, is taken in a different class (grade). The highest is “Prima” (aka “Extra”). Then the class "A", "B" and the lowest - "C". With an average income, customers buy class "B", at best - "A". Because “Prima” is expensive, but you won’t look at “C” without tears. When choosing packs, pay attention to the presence of moisture on the inside of the film, if there is dew, do not take it. The next point - since the packs are packed, then look at the presence in the side parts of the lining for the presence of potholes and knots. Choose lining without them. Which does not at all guarantee that after you bring the packs and open them on the spot, half of them will be with some flaws.

The floorboard is calculated by the floor area. Taking into account the inevitable waste and the size of the room. Standard - 6 meters, less often - 4 and 3 meters each. Try to make sure that the remaining trimmings can be joined on the floor joists. Why do they try to take the distance between the lags with this in mind.

Window and door blocks, glass, finishing elements (skirting boards, layouts, platbands, slats, etc.) - as required.

Insulation is preferably made of mineral plates or rolled. Styrofoam - in extreme cases (the smell of it is persistent). All kinds of films are better waterproof.

Roofing material in accordance with those already available on your buildings.

Hardware, nails are taken in assortment. That is different lengths. Better galvanized.

Paints and impregnations - in the right quantities and the appropriate color. Of the expensive ones - “belinka”, cheap ones - only on internal surfaces.

Plumbing and electrical - a separate issue.

Required tool - the more the better.

That's all. As they say, gallop through Europe. Because you will need intelligence and ingenuity, but nothing, experience comes during work.

And the sequence - first all the markings, then earthworks (digging holes for supports), installing support blocks under the base of the movable buildings, under the toilet. Laying of water supply and sewer pipes, digging of a drain hole. Dragging structures, placing them on blocks. Toilet installation. Electrical and plumbing equipment.

And then the arrangement of the veranda with its roof, and the alteration of the house itself.

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Nowadays, summer residents often build panel houses on their plots. The main advantage of panel houses is a rather short construction period. If you started work in late autumn, by the beginning of field work, you can move to the dacha for the summer. Other advantages of building these houses are the affordable price, the durability of such buildings and the environmental quality of the buildings. If you have a country panel house, you have probably wondered more than once how to make the insulation of a panel house with your own hands so that you can live in it in winter.

Panel houses are usually divided into two types. The buildings that belong to the first group are made for permanent residence.In such houses with thermal insulation, of course, everything is in order. The second category of houses is suitable for living and relaxing in the spring-summer warm period. Of course, few of the owners of such houses thought about additional thermal protection. Why is thermal protection needed in a building in winter, when no one lives in it? But in order to live all year round in a panel house, it is necessary to carry out such an event as warming your house.

Panel houses, in which they are going to live permanently, must be insulated without fail. As for the "summer houses", it is advised to do the insulation to increase the life of the building. If you are looking for an answer to the question of how to properly insulate a panel house, then according to generally accepted rules, the thickness of the frame of a summer house should be about 5-7 centimeters.

For buildings operated in winter, the thickness of the frame is 2-3 times greater. Thus, for panel houses built for winter use, the thickness should be 15 centimeters more. Feel the difference! With a frame thickness of 5-7 centimeters in winter, heat flows away at the highest speed. However, we want to reassure you: you will not have to insulate the entire frame, but some of its sections. Mostly - basements, slopes, attic floors and basement.

Often the owners of such buildings think that it is enough to install the “warm floor” system, and immediately all the difficulties with heat leakage will be solved by themselves. This is not true! Without insulation of walls, basement, basement and other structural elements, many cold bridges form in the house. Of course, it is realistic to heat all rooms to any temperature. But why pay more for heating?

Heaters for this type of buildings, such as panel houses, are made in the form of rolled or tiled products. They differ from each other not only in the production method and other similar subtleties, but also in thickness. Professionals believe that the greater the thickness, the better these buildings are isolated. It seems so, but a very important point must be taken into account: the process of insulating panel houses, even with very high-quality materials, does not guarantee the elimination of heat leakage if the work is done by inexperienced craftsmen.

Usually, materials such as isolon, mineral wool, mineral wool, polystyrene foam are used for insulation. It makes no sense to list all the materials that are on the market. If the material meets certain requirements and is correctly mounted, then it retains heat very effectively.

When insulating panel houses, different heaters are used, similar in their own qualities and physical properties. They are divided into two groups: heaters of inorganic origin and heaters of organic origin. It is also customary to divide insulation into main types: bulk materials for panel houses and slab insulation for panel houses.

When choosing insulation material from a wide range, you need to know that they all have protective properties, so you should be guided not only by the climatic conditions of this area.

If developers are going to insulate walls with bulk materials, which include slag, expanded clay and other similar substances, then this must be done in such a way that the material itself simply does not sit down over time. This can be done even at the stage of filling the wall space with loose insulation. It is recommended to pour the insulation for the walls of the panel house tightly, while it is also necessary to tamp it strongly with some object.

The above-mentioned polystyrene foam and mineral wool can be attributed to slab insulation for panel houses. If you are interested in how to insulate a panel house from the outside, then remember that the mineral wool is attached to the frame with the help of beams. It must be filled vertically. At the same time, it is necessary to fill the beams in places where there is a seam between the insulation plates.

Styrofoam in its chemical composition belongs to materials made on the basis of organic matter. It protects wall structures very well from strong winds, practically does not rot and is not very heavy in weight. Sheathing the walls with foam from the inside is not too difficult. Styrofoam is known to be a flammable material, so it needs to be handled accordingly.

Mineral wool is made from special basalt or glass fibers. When working with glass wool, you need to know and follow many different safety rules. Use special goggles, wear strong gloves and a respirator. Products based on basalt, on the contrary, are safe for health and easy to process. When isolating the house with mineral wool, remember that it is able to pass water. Therefore, it is necessary to use materials that prevent the appearance of condensate.

One of the cheapest options would be insulation from the inside of a residential building. Nowadays, the best way is to insulate the walls of the panel house with liquid foam (penoizol). At the same time, you need to know that due to the inaccurate fit of the foam plates, which has been used for this purpose for a long time, heat losses increase. But when using liquid foam, the cash costs for heating are reduced several times, while the warranty period for the insulation is more than 60 years.

To get started, you need to purchase special equipment. As a rule, the process of insulating the shield surface does not require careful preparation. Penoizol can be used to insulate walls, floors and roofs. According to its technical characteristics, a ten-centimeter layer of penoizol is equal to about 3 meters of concrete or thirty centimeters of foam.

Insulation must be placed directly inside the walls of the building. In this case, the cost of paying for utilities associated with heating the house, according to various experts, is reduced by a couple of times. Thus, you create not only a favorable atmosphere in the house, but at the same time save financially on utilities. With a house thickness of approximately 0.25 meters, the insulation layer should be at least 15 centimeters.

For insulation of slopes, it is best to use the most ordinary rolled heaters. Such insulation will not work with the walls of a panel house. Wall structures shrink, and the rolled heat-insulating layer is almost always damaged, and the heat-insulation practically ceases to perform all its functions. Therefore, you should always use plates that are made from foam or mineral wool.

Often, modern homeowners, wanting to reduce their financial costs, decide not to invite professionals, but to do the insulation of a frame panel house on their own. If you belong to this category of hosts, then you need to use the instructions below. Insulation of a panel house implies:

For the vapor barrier of the walls insulated by us, a special film is usually used, which is able to create a very reliable barrier, which prevents moisture from penetrating into the material and prevents the appearance of mold and decay. Under no circumstances should this type of protection be neglected. Otherwise, in winter, you can lose approximately 55% of the effectiveness of insulation due to the increased moisture content of the insulation.

Therefore, frames are almost always sheathed with a breathable membrane, which is covered with facade cladding. Very often, wanting to save their money and achieve high efficiency, the owners of panel buildings use egg containers as such a membrane and apply them in 2-3 layers.

Practice often shows that such a technique is indeed very effective. After the frame-panel house has been insulated, the cost of heating the home will be reduced by about 70% if all stages are completed in accordance with all the rules.If the thickness of the winter version of the house in very cold areas reaches 25 centimeters, then make the thickness of the insulation layer at least 15 centimeters.

Repair of walls in panel and frame-fill houses

In panel and frame-backfill houses, the walls can freeze due to the precipitation of the insulation. It remains to add insulation. First, the frame must be dried and repaired. To do this, temporarily rotten racks are strengthened by installing new linings outside and inside, nailed. Then the insulation is replaced and the skin is restored.

Chapter 4 Repair of walls Depending on the adopted structural scheme of the house, the walls are divided into load-bearing, performing load-bearing and enclosing functions, and self-supporting, performing only the enclosing function. External walls are required to ensure strength,

Repair of brick walls The main defects of brick walls are cracks that worsen the thermal insulation of buildings. Cracks are usually formed due to shrinkage of buildings during the first 1–1.5 years after their construction or due to flaws in the design of foundations.

Repair of wooden chopped walls The most common defect of chopped wooden walls is the rotting of the lower and window sill crowns at the locations of window drains. The only way out in case of their destruction is replacement. To do this, the house is raised by jacks,

Repair of walls made of aerated concrete Repair of the outer surfaces of walls made of aerated concrete is carried out in a certain sequence: • clean the surface of the walls from the coiling or collapsing layer of aerated concrete;

Repair of plaster walls of a country house Plaster and cladding of the house are destroyed primarily due to constant dampness. Therefore, before starting repairs, it is necessary to eliminate the causes of its occurrence. The causes of dampness can be: vegetation around the house is closer than 3–5 m

Manual wall plastering technology Applying plaster requires a certain skill. The mortar is applied manually in two ways: by spreading and by throwing, using a variety of simple tools (plaster spatula or trowel, falcon,

Painting walls and ceilings with adhesive paints When choosing a paint, one should proceed from how resistant the coating should be in operation, take into account the decor, the purpose of the room and the cost of the paint. Ready-to-use adhesive paints are produced in the form of dry

Painting walls and ceilings with water-based paints A water-based coating has important operational advantages: durability and the ability to wash with a sponge with water with the addition of detergents. There are ready-to-use water-based paints on sale

Finishing exterior walls with wood The most effective protection of log, block and frame walls from atmospheric influences is plank sheathing, which is very decorative. It is better to arrange it horizontally, and when using smooth non-grooved boards -

Sheathing of walls and ceiling with boards When interior walls are finished, boards can be placed both vertically and horizontally, and the visual perception of the room depends on their location. Horizontally arranged boards lengthen the room, and located

Sheathing of walls and ceilings with large-sized sheets or slabs

Wiring in houses and outbuildings Let's consider the wiring plan of a two-room residential building with lamps, sockets, switches and other electrical equipment attached to it. Rice. 6. Wiring plan of a single-family residential building: I

Any object needs regular inspection and damage elimination.Wooden houses require this more than others, even if they are a frame building with shield walls. Especially often the replacement of the lower beam of the panel house is required. How to do this - detailed instructions below.

With the help of a chisel, it is easy to determine the degree of deterioration of the lower embedded beam and decide on its complete or partial replacement. If the tip enters the wood easily, and when the chisel moves, a rotten inside is revealed, then there is only one verdict - change it immediately. Bypassing the entire structure, this method checks all parts of the house.

Perhaps there is damage on one of them, and then it is not advisable to arrange a full-scale repair of a frame-panel house - you can simply eliminate some sections, replacing them with new ones.

The choice of wood should be approached responsibly - it should be free of visible defects, and before work it is recommended to impregnate it with all kinds of protections and impregnations. So:

• A beam of 150 mm in cross section, if it is possible to use a larger size, then it will be great - the frame house will receive even greater stability.
• Staples. They will be needed to fix the nodes.
• Saw. With a large replacement, you need to use gasoline, and small sections will cost a grinder or disk.
• Jacks. The carrying capacity should not be less than five tons.
• Chisels, hammers, axes.
• Foundation laying tool or welding machine for cutting a pile metal grillage.
• Nailer.

The principle of operation is no different, as if it were carried out for a log or completely timber house. So:

• First you need to remove the trim. At least down to the windows. If the shields are a seamless structure, then you will have to work with a chainsaw, carefully cutting off sections and exposing the frame timber.
• Now you need to strengthen the frame at all important nodes - around the entire perimeter of the house from the street and inside, boards with a cross section of at least 40 mm are stuffed. Use steel studs for fastening, for which holes are specially drilled.

Further, do-it-yourself repair of a panel house continues by raising the entire structure on jacks to the desired height. They will need one for every two meters of wall length. Before the house is raised, it is necessary to disconnect it from all communications, free the chimney from contact with the roof, remove all electrical networks that go outside to the highways.

Fix the raised house with bricks or wooden beams. Also, if the beam is not replaced along the entire perimeter, then it makes sense to put the supports at an angle. Then the house can be lowered or left on jacks, but periodically check them for stability.

Before you start changing the support beam, you should repair the foundation of the panel house, if it requires it. This will be indicated by a growth of moss or mold, destruction in the form of concrete chips.

• When the new foundation finally hardens, you can start replacing the timber. It is selected in pieces, a new one is laid, after inserting the dowels into the drilled holes, the sealant is placed in the grooves, and the house is lowered.

The process is carried out slowly, with a mandatory check for skew. After installing the house, you must immediately remove the wooden ties, previously stuffed on the frame, so that the house “relaxes” and takes the desired position.

• If everything suits you, you can sew up the frame. It will not work to make the house factory again. Therefore, boards, chipboard, fiberboard and other materials are used, not forgetting to shift the inside of the walls with insulation, cotton slabs or foam.

House repairs, and even more so the replacement of crowns, cannot be done independently even in a light shield facility.

It will take a brigade. This is due to a great risk to life and construction.

Proper repair of panel houses is a well-coordinated work with a calculated sequence.

You cannot first replace one wall, and then take on the foundation.

Today, when buying an old panel house, one cannot be completely sure of the reliability of the connection of the panels. If such a connection turns out to be fragile, then it will be seriously broken during the lifting of the structure, which will provoke irreversible consequences - the house will simply fall apart. To prevent such a development of events, it is necessary to replace the mortgage beam.

At the same time, the house rises to an insignificant height (about two to three centimeters). In the future, docking of new bars with each other will be required. They are secured with studs and bolts.

In some situations, it is possible to selectively replace embedded crowns in those areas where the material is completely unsuitable for further use.

Before replacing the embedded beam, it is necessary to dismantle the blockage (of course, if it is available), as well as remove the cladding of the building at the facade.

It should be noted that you can do without dismantling the door and window blocks (it is enough to remove the doors from the opening and remove the frames).

Having gained access to the crown, it must be carefully examined. This is due to the fact that defects in logs or beams may not appear along their length, but only in some areas, mainly at the corners of the house and under the windows.

If you need to slightly raise the house to change the crown, then you need to fasten the shields with the help of boards (their thickness should be five centimeters).

This work is done in two places: at the top, with a slight deviation from the window block (about five centimeters) and at the bottom, with a deviation from the crown by thirty centimeters. This option involves the simultaneous fastening of the shields around the perimeter of the building.

In the future, in the foundation, you can make niches necessary for the installation of jacks. It is important that the distance between them is at least three meters.

The next stage will be cutting out pieces of timber in niches, as well as installing jacks in them. The structure is raised by two to three centimeters and the remaining parts of the crown beam are taken out. Only after that you can proceed to the installation of a new beam.

It should be prepared in advance: cut to the desired size, make cuts at the ends, allowing it to be securely connected to the rest of the bars, etc.

Having finished with the installation of the central part of the mortgage crown, you can remove its side trim. To do this, a niche is created on the side of the foundation.

A jack is placed in it, which makes it possible to raise the house two or three centimeters and get a side beam located in front of the mortgage crown. A new beam with prepared cuts is placed on this site.

When the beam is fully installed, the jack is taken out and the beams located in front of the building are combined with studs or bolts.

For this purpose, it is necessary to drill through holes. Their diameter should be at least twelve centimeters. They are necessary for mounting studs or bolts that unite the bars.

To keep the connection as strong as possible, the bars must be fastened with two bolts. The length of the cut should be at least thirty centimeters.

The old panel house can be disassembled in parts, how to do this in more detail below.

In many summer cottages there are still stands made of wooden shields and slabs. This design has lost its relevance and necessity.

With the advent of new technologies, the construction of a modern country house is much faster and easier. Materials for construction are used more qualitative and reliable.

To build something new on a summer cottage, it is necessary to demolish or dismantle the old house. Previously, the construction of a country house was not an easy and rather costly business, so the buildings were built from any improvised and available materials. One of the most common building materials for a country house was the so-called "shield".The prefabricated structure of the dacha looked like an integral structure, was erected in the shortest possible time and came out relatively cheaply at a price.

To free the site from such a building is the main task before starting the construction of a new house.

Work on the dismantling or dismantling of a panel house is carried out both with their own hands and with the help of assistants or specialized firms.

Before starting work, you should carefully prepare for the process, namely, turn off communications and take all things out of the room.

To parse, you will need tools:

• saw or grinder;
• axe;
• hammer;
• pliers;
• screwdrivers;
• scrap;
• sledgehammer;
• head and hand protection.

If the country house has a bathroom, a heating system, a stove or a fireplace, then these objects are sorted out first.

Pipes and radiators are cut off by a grinder, a stove or fireplace with a chimney is broken with a sledgehammer. Plumbing in the bathroom must be dismantled and removed from the work area.

Next, the roof, load-bearing beams, ceiling are disassembled, and only then proceed to the analysis of internal partitions and load-bearing walls. To dismantle the shield walls, an electric tool, saws or a grinder are used.

At the last stage, the floors are opened.

All construction waste must be sorted into reusable and those that will be disposed of.

It is best to disassemble a panel house with helpers and reliable tools.

If you do not have sufficient skills in the field of dismantling buildings, then it is best to seek help from specialists.

Frame or panel houses are very popular among summer residents. They are affordable, durable enough, and most importantly, they are built very quickly, but usually they have to be insulated for winter living. The construction of a panel house is carried out on a ready-made foundation, columnar or pile, communications are supplied separately.

Some families who plan to permanently live in a panel house foresee all options for thermal protection in advance. But if at first you expected to use the house in the autumn-summer period, and then decided to spend time in the country in the winter, you can easily insulate the house with your own hands after construction.

In order not to spend money on unnecessary heating of all rooms, the house should be insulated as evenly as possible, it is necessary to avoid cold bridges, moreover, if the frame house is not properly insulated, the service life of finishing materials, household appliances, and personal belongings may decrease. For a comfortable stay in winter in a frame-panel house, floor insulation is clearly not enough. In addition to sealing joints, sealing window frames and door jambs, insulation of the basement, basement and insulation of the walls of the panel house will be required.

In order to insulate a frame-panel house with your own hands, first carry out preparatory work to seal all cracks and small defects that can let in cold. Gaps can be treated with mounting foam, joints are sealed by caulking, using tow or jute. Carefully process the joints of the floor and walls in each room, close up window openings, corners, and be sure to check the ceiling of the house from the attic side and from the inside of the room.

Now you can start warming the panel house from the outside. To do this, it is necessary to install profiles under the exterior finish and fix a layer of insulation on them.

Loose and sheet materials, such as ecowool, foam glass, extruded polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene, basalt, mineral wool, glass wool, foam plastic, penoizol can serve as a heater. All these materials have their advantages and disadvantages, but in general, with proper installation, they can protect the house from winter frosts. Ecowool and foam glass are inexpensive eco-friendly materials with good fire resistance and antiseptic properties.Styrofoam protects well from wind, is light, almost does not rot, but requires special treatment with refractory substances, and is also susceptible to damage by animals. Glass wool is a hazardous material and requires the utmost care when working with it.

The most common and recommended by experts material for external insulation of a frame house is liquid foam, penoizol. It is relatively inexpensive, protected from rodents and harmful organisms, fills cracks and joints well, and does not leave cold bridges. The warranty period of the heater is about 60 years.

Liquid foam is suitable for insulating walls, floors and ceilings at home. The insulation layer must be at least 15 cm.

After you have fixed the sheet material on the frame or tightly poured loose insulation into the wall space, you need to equip the waterproofing layer with a regular polyester film. It is enough to fix the film with a construction stapler.

Do not neglect the vapor barrier, otherwise you risk losing up to 50% of your heat in winter.

To do this, use a special film that prevents moisture from entering the insulating material, which protects it from mold and fungi.

From above, the vapor barrier layer is covered with facade cladding. To save money, egg containers are used instead of expensive films. Oddly enough, this method is quite effective and practical.

Insulation of a panel house from the inside is a conditional measure. Depending on the weather in winter, you can decide whether you need additional protection for your home or not. But if you decide to do it anyway, here are some tips.

They do not accumulate moisture, as a result of which their thermal insulation properties are not lost, they will not rot and deteriorate. Drywall will serve as such a material, a cheap option is to fasten the battens, which are sheathed with plywood, and foam granules or expanded clay are poured into the free space between them.

Insulation of the basement of a panel house and its finishing require separate measures. This is the installation of a waterproofing layer and the installation of insulation, the arrangement of the drainage system and decorative trim.

From practice, we know for sure that such a home insulation technology is very effective. After insulating a frame-panel house, its heating costs, on average, 70% cheaper. For example, if the thickness of the insulated house reaches 25 centimeters, then the thickness of the insulation layer must be made at least 15 centimeters.