DIY panel house repair

Hello! Please tell me where to start and consistently reconstruct the old panel house. It so happened that there is no way to put a new one. I decided to remake the old panel board, put by my grandmother on the site. In addition to him, on the site there is also a living room for 2 rooms with an entrance hall, there is a separate shower with a changing room, wide, large. To begin with, I wanted to add a shower to the change house, moving it close to it and finish building a toilet. It would be such a small house with amenities. So far, to live in it and quietly reconstruct the old panel house. The house consists of one room - 20 sq. meters, kitchens - meters - 10 sq. meters. I would like to complete a small veranda, divide a large room into 2 rooms and extend the kitchen, put a small toilet and shower there. Prompt the sequence of work and the use of appropriate materials for this. Thanks in advance for your reply.

Alexander, Moscow.

Hello Alexander from Moscow!

Well, you have added some questions!

Without a detailed survey of the location of all your buildings, it is difficult to answer them.

The fact that you are not planning immediately, but gradually to reconstruct your grandmother's inheritance, the idea is correct.

Do you know how our priests act when they return the destroyed churches? They will first renovate a small corner of a large church with modest money and with the involvement of the most active parishioners. And immediately they begin to conduct church services in it. And in parallel, they continue to repair the rest of the premises, the benefit and money begin to flow from their activities. And in the end everything changes.

This example is for comparison with your renovation plans. Do the same, you can't go wrong.

With the available funds, you should purchase the necessary building material. You will need river or quarry sand. In the amount of about 5 - 7 cubic meters. Lot? No, it is relatively inexpensive, but the transport, each of its trips, decent money. Therefore, it is easier to immediately bring with a reserve. It will be required for backfilling under the supports of your buildings, under the paths, for the preparation of cement mortar, and the remaining sand, if it remains, of course, for agricultural and other needs.

Cement, if it is needed in further construction, is bought immediately before its use. Since it can quickly turn into a dense mass during storage, unsuitable for further work with it. In any case, if you open the bag, then it should be wrapped in plastic wrap. So it will last longer without contact with moisture in the air.

You will also need commercial timber. Pine is most often used in its quality in the form of the most popular sawn timber - this is a bar with a section of 100/100 millimeters, a section of 50/50 millimeters, an edged board 150/50; 100/50; 150/25 mm. I cannot predict the amount of material required for you, it is calculated strictly individually. On the flip side, without pretending to be the slightest accuracy, I will say that large section beams may need at least 4 - 6 pieces, small section - about a dozen, large section boards - 10 pieces each and small section - about three or four dozen. (All - based on a 6-meter length).

If the lumber remains in small quantities, it can always be used for household needs. Although practice shows that more often it is always lacking.

For all kinds of wall cladding, ceilings, partitions, you will need lining. It is sold in packs of 10.It is clear that it is necessary to consider the area of ​​future building elements and only after that buy the lining. Most often they buy it in various lengths. Let's say half of three meters and half of 2.5 or 2.7 meters. This is dictated by the fact that in different places its different lengths are required and so there will be less inevitable waste. And from longer boards you can always make shorter ones. They always try to adapt the longer ones first, and only then they build everything else from the scraps.

/ Remember that the width of a standard lining is usually 0.087 meters. / Lining, again depending on the thickness of the wallet, is taken of a different class (grade). The highest is “Prima” (aka “Extra”). Then the class "A", "B" and the lowest - "C". With an average income, clients buy class "B", in the best case - "A". Because “Prima” is dear, and you can't look at “C” without tears. When choosing packs, pay attention to the presence of moisture on the film from the inside, if there is dew, do not take it. The next point - since the packs are packed, then look at the presence of potholes and knots in the side parts of the lining. Choose lining without them. Which does not at all guarantee that after you bring the packs and open them on the spot, then half of them will be with any flaws.

The floorboard is calculated by the area of ​​the floor. Taking into account the inevitable waste and the size of the room. Standard - 6 meters, less often - 4 and 3 meters. Try to do so that the remaining trim can be joined on the floor joists. For what, they try to take the distance between the lags with this in mind.

Window and door blocks, glass, finishing elements (plinths, layouts, platbands, strips, etc.) - as required.

Insulation is preferable from mineral slabs or rolled. Styrofoam - in extreme cases (the smell from it is persistent). All kinds of films are better waterproof.

Roofing material in accordance with those already available on your buildings.

Hardware, nails are available in stock. That is, of different lengths. Better galvanized.

Paints and impregnations - in the right quantities and in the appropriate color. From the expensive - "squirrel", cheap - only on the inner surfaces.

Plumbing and electrical is a separate issue.

An essential tool - the more the better.

That's all. As they say, at a gallop across Europe. Because you need a smart and smart mind, but never mind, experience comes during work.

And the priority is first all the markings, then earthwork (digging holes for supports), installing support blocks under the base of the buildings being moved, under the toilet. Laying water supply and sewer pipes, digging a drain pit. Dragging and dropping structures, placing them on blocks. Toilet assembly and assembly. Equipped with electrics and plumbing.

And then the device of the veranda with its roof, and the alteration of the house itself.

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Nowadays, summer residents often erect panel houses on their plots. The main advantage of panel houses is a rather short construction period. If you started work in late autumn, you can move to your dacha for the summer by the beginning of the field work. Other advantages of building these houses are the affordable price, the durability of such buildings and the environmental quality of the structures. If you have a suburban panel house, you probably wondered more than once how to insulate a panel house with your own hands so that you can live in it in winter.

Panel houses are usually divided into two types. Buildings that belong to the first group are made for permanent residence.Naturally, such houses with thermal insulation are all right. The second category of houses is suitable for living and resting in the warm spring and summer period. Of course, few of the owners of such houses thought about additional heat protection. Why is thermal protection needed in a building in winter, when no one lives in it? But in order to live all year round in a panel house, it is necessary to hold an event such as insulating your house.

Panel houses, in which they are going to live permanently, must be insulated without fail. As for the "summer houses", it is advised to do the insulation to increase the service life of the building. If you are looking for an answer to the question of how to properly insulate a panel house, then according to generally accepted rules, the thickness of the frame of a summer house should be about 5-7 centimeters.

In buildings operated in winter, the thickness of the frame is 2-3 times greater. Thus, for panel houses built for winter use, the thickness should be 15 centimeters more. Feel what a difference! With a frame thickness of 5-7 centimeters in winter, heat flows away at the highest speed. However, we want to reassure you: not the entire frame will have to be insulated, but some of its sections. Mostly - basements, slopes, attic floors and a basement.

Often the owners of such buildings think that it is enough to install the "warm floor" system, and all the difficulties with heat leakage will be solved by themselves. This is not true! Without insulation of the walls, basement, basement and other structural elements, many cold bridges are formed in the house. Of course, it is realistic to heat all rooms to any temperature. But why pay more for heating?

Insulation materials for buildings of this type, such as panel houses, are made in the form of roll or tile products. They differ among themselves not only in the production method and other similar subtleties, but also in thickness. Professionals believe that the greater the thickness, the better these buildings are insulated. It seems to be so, but a very important point must be taken into account: the process of insulating panel houses, even with very high-quality materials, does not guarantee the elimination of heat leakage if the work is done by inexperienced craftsmen.

Usually, materials such as isolon, mineral wool, mineral wool, expanded polystyrene are used for insulation. There is no point in listing all the materials on the market. If the material meets certain requirements and is correctly assembled, then it is very effective at keeping back heat.

When insulating panel houses, different insulation materials are used, similar in their own qualities and physical properties. They are divided into two groups: heaters of inorganic origin and heaters of organic origin. It is also accepted to divide heaters into basic types: bulk materials for panel houses and plate heaters for panel houses.

When choosing an insulation material from a wide range, you need to know that they all have protective properties, so you should be guided not only by the climatic conditions of this area.

If developers are going to insulate the walls with bulk substances, which include slag, expanded clay and other similar substances, then this must be done in such a way that the material itself simply does not sit down over time. This can be done even at the stage of filling the wall space with bulk insulation. It is recommended to pour insulation for the walls of the panel house tightly, while it is also necessary to firmly tamp with any object.

The aforementioned polystyrene and mineral wool can be attributed to slab insulation for panel houses. If you are interested in how to insulate a panel house from the outside, then remember that the mineral wool is attached to the frame with the help of beams. It must be stuffed vertically. In this case, it is necessary to fill the beams in places where there is a seam between the insulation plates.

Polyfoam in its chemical composition belongs to materials made on the basis of organic matter. It protects wall structures very well from strong winds, practically does not rot and is not very heavy in weight. Sheathing walls with foam from the inside is not too difficult. Polyfoam is known as a fire hazardous material, so it needs to be treated accordingly.

Mineral wool is made from special basalt or glass fibers. When working with glass wool, you need to know and follow many different safety rules. Use special goggles, strong gloves and a respirator. Basalt-based products, on the contrary, are safe for health and easy to process. When insulating the house with mineral wool, remember that it is capable of letting water through. Therefore, you have to use materials that prevent the appearance of condensation.

One of the cheapest option would be insulation from the inside of a residential building. Nowadays, the best way is to insulate the walls of a panel house with liquid foam (penoizol). At the same time, you need to know that due to the inaccurate adhesion of foam plates, which has been used for a long time for these purposes, heat loss increases. But when using liquid foam, the monetary costs of heating are reduced several times, while the warranty period for insulation is more than 60 years.

To get started, you need to purchase special equipment. As a rule, the process of insulating the shield surface does not require careful preparation. Penoizol can be used to insulate walls, floors and roofs. According to its technical characteristics, a ten-centimeter layer of penoizol is equal to about 3 meters of concrete or thirty centimeters of foam.

Insulation must be placed directly inside the walls of the building. In this case, the cost of utility bills associated with heating the house, according to various expert estimates, are reduced by a couple of times. Thus, you create not only a favorable atmosphere in the house, but at the same time save financially on utilities. With a house thickness of approximately 0.25 meters, the insulation layer should be at least 15 centimeters.

To insulate the slopes, it is best to use the most ordinary roll insulation. Such insulation will not work with the walls of the panel house. Wall structures shrink, and the rolled thermal insulation layer is almost always damaged, and the thermal insulation practically ceases to fulfill all its functions. Therefore, you should always use slabs that are made from foam or mineral wool.

Often, modern homeowners, wishing to reduce their financial costs, decide not to invite professionals, but to insulate a frame panel house on their own. If you belong to a similar category of hosts, then you need to use the instructions below. Insulation of a panel house means:

For the vapor barrier of our insulated walls, a special film is usually used, which is capable of creating a very reliable barrier, which does not allow moisture to penetrate into the material and prevents the appearance of mold and decay. This type of protection should never be neglected. Otherwise, you can lose about 55% of the insulation efficiency in winter due to the high humidity of the thermal insulation.

Therefore, the frames are almost always sheathed with an air-permeable membrane, which is covered with facade cladding. Very often, wishing to save their money and achieve high efficiency, the owners of shield buildings use containers for eggs as such a membrane and apply them in 2-3 layers.

Practice often shows that this technique is really very effective. After the frame-panel house has been insulated, the cost of heating the dwelling will be reduced by about 70% if all stages are performed according to all the rules.If the thickness of the winter version of the house in very cold areas reaches 25 centimeters, then make the thickness of the insulation layer at least 15 centimeters.

Repair of walls in panel and frame-backfill houses

In panel and frame-backfill houses, the walls can freeze through due to the precipitation of the insulation. It remains to add insulation. First, the frame must be dried and repaired. To do this, the rotted racks are temporarily strengthened by installing new linings outside and inside, nailed down. Then the insulation is replaced and the skin is restored.

Chapter 4 Wall repairs Depending on the adopted structural scheme of the house, the walls are divided into load-bearing, carrying out the load-bearing and enclosing functions, and self-supporting, performing only the enclosing function. Strength requirements are imposed on the outer walls,

Repair of brick walls The main defects in brick walls are cracks, which worsen the thermal insulation of buildings. Cracks are usually formed due to shrinkage of buildings during the first 1-1.5 years after their construction or due to deficiencies in the design of foundations

Repair of chopped wooden walls The most common defect of chopped wooden walls is rotting of the bottom and window sills in the places where the window drains are located. The only way out in the event of their destruction is to replace them. For this, the house is raised with jacks,

Repair of walls made of aerated concrete Repair of external surfaces of walls made of aerated concrete is carried out in a certain sequence: • clean the surface of the walls from a coiled or collapsing layer of aerated concrete;

Repair of plaster on the walls of a country house Plaster and cladding of a house are destroyed primarily due to constant dampness. Therefore, before starting the repair, it is necessary to eliminate the causes of its appearance. The reasons for dampness may be: vegetation around the house is closer than 3-5 m

The technology of plastering walls by hand Applying a plaster solution requires a certain skill. The solution is applied manually in two ways: by spreading and sprinkling, using the most diverse and simple tools (plastering trowel or trowel, falcon,

Painting walls and ceilings with glue paints When choosing a paint, one should proceed from how durable the coating should be in operation, take into account the decor, the purpose of the room and the cost of the paint.

Painting walls and ceilings with water-based paints Water-based coatings have important operational advantages: strength and the ability to wash with a sponge with water with the addition of detergents.

Wood cladding for exterior walls The most effective weather protection for log, cobblestone and frame walls is plank sheathing, which is very decorative. It is better to arrange it horizontally, and when using smooth non-grooved boards -

Sheathing of walls and ceilings with boards In the interior decoration of walls, boards can be placed both vertically and horizontally, and the visual perception of the room depends on their location. Horizontally located boards lengthen the room, and located

Sheathing of walls and ceilings with large-sized sheets or slabs The most widespread in the decoration of country houses was sheathing with gypsum plasterboard sheets of dry plaster, as well as fiberboard or chipboard.

Wiring in houses and outbuildings Consider a plan for the wiring of a two-room residential building with lamps, plug sockets, switches and other electrical equipment attached to it. Rice. 6. Wiring plan for a single-family residential building: I

Any object needs regular inspection and removal of damage.Wooden houses require this more than others, even if they are a frame building with shield walls. Replacement of the lower beam of a panel house is especially often required. How to do it - detailed instructions below.

With the help of a chisel, it is easy to determine the degree of deterioration of the lower embedded bar to decide on its full or partial replacement. If the point enters the wood easily, and when the chisel moves, the rotten interior is revealed, then there is only one verdict - change immediately. Bypassing the entire structure, all parts of the house are checked by this method.

Perhaps there is damage on one of them, and then it is impractical to arrange a full-scale repair of a frame-panel house - you can simply eliminate some areas by replacing them with new ones.

The choice of wood should be approached responsibly - it should be free of visible defects, and before work it is recommended to impregnate it with all kinds of protections and impregnations. So:

• A bar of 150 mm in section, if it is possible to use a larger size, then this will be great - the frame house will receive even greater stability.
• Staples. They will be needed to fix the nodes.
• Saw. With a large replacement, you need to use a gasoline one, and small areas will cost a grinder or disc.
• Jacks. The carrying capacity should not be less than five tons.
• Chisels, hammers, axes.
• Foundation masonry tool or welding machine for cutting pile metal grillage.
• Nail pulling machine.

The principle of operation is the same as if it were carried out for a log house or a fully log house. So:

• First you need to remove the trim. At least up to window blocks. If the shields are a seamless structure, then you will have to work with a chainsaw, carefully cutting off sections and exposing the frame beam.
• Now you need to strengthen the frame at all important nodes - boards with a cross section of at least 40 mm are stuffed around the entire perimeter of the house from the street and inside. You need to use steel pins for fastening, for which holes are specially drilled.

Further, do-it-yourself repair of the panel house continues by raising the entire structure on jacks to the desired height. They will need one for every two meters of wall length. Before the house is raised, it is necessary to disconnect it from all communications, free the chimney from contact with the roof, remove all electrical networks that go out to the highways.

The raised house is fixed with bricks or wooden beams. Also, if the timber is not replaced along the entire perimeter, then it makes sense to put supports and tilt. Then the house can be lowered or left on jacks, but periodically check them for stability.

Before you start changing the support bar, you should repair the foundation of the panel house, if it requires it. This will be indicated by a growth of moss or mold, destruction in the form of concrete chips.

• When the new foundation finally hardens, you can start replacing the timber. They choose it in pieces, put a new one, after inserting the pins into the drilled holes, put the seal in the grooves, and lower the house.

The process is carried out slowly, with a mandatory check for bias. After installing the house, you need to immediately remove the wooden ties, previously stuffed onto the frame, so that the house “relaxes” and takes the desired position.

• If everything suits you, you can sew up the frame. It will not work to make the house a factory again. Therefore, they use boards, chipboard, fiberboard and other materials, not forgetting to shift the interior of the walls with insulation, cotton wool boards or foam.

House repairs and even more so the replacement of crowns, even in a lightweight panelboard facility, cannot be done independently.

A brigade will be required. This is associated with a great risk to life and construction.

Correct repair of panel houses is a well-coordinated work with a calculated sequence.

You cannot first replace one wall, and then take up the foundation.

Today, when buying an old panel house, one cannot be completely sure of the reliability of the connection of the panels. If such a connection turns out to be fragile, then it will be seriously disturbed during the lifting of the structure, which will provoke irreversible consequences - the house will simply fall apart. In order to prevent such a development of events, it is necessary to replace the mortgage beam.

At the same time, the house rises to an insignificant height (about two to three centimeters). In the future, it will be necessary to dock the new bars with each other. They are secured with studs and bolts.

In some situations, it is possible to selectively replace the crown crowns in those areas where the material is completely unsuitable for further operation.

Before replacing the embedded beam, it is necessary to dismantle the embankment (of course, if any), and also remove the cladding of the building near the facade.

It should be noted that you can do without dismantling the door and window blocks (just remove the doors from the opening and remove the frames).

Having gained access to the crown, it must be carefully examined. This is due to the fact that defects in logs or beams can appear not along their length, but only in some areas, mainly at the corners of the house and under windows.

If, to change the crown, it is necessary to slightly raise the house, then you need to fasten the shields with the help of boards (their thickness should be five centimeters).

This work is being done in two places: above, with a slight deviation from the window block (about five centimeters) and below, with a deviation from the crown by thirty centimeters. This option involves the simultaneous fixing of shields around the perimeter of the building.

In the future, niches can be made in the foundation, necessary for the installation of jacks. It is important that the distance between them is at least three meters.

The next stage will be cutting out pieces of timber in niches, as well as installing jacks in them. The structure is raised by two to three centimeters and the remaining parts of the crown bar are taken out. Only after that you can proceed to the installation of a new timber.

It should be prepared in advance: cut to the desired size, cut at the ends, allowing it to be securely connected to the rest of the bars, etc.

Having finished with the installation of the central part of the mortgage crown, you can remove its side trimming. For this, a niche is created on the side of the foundation.

A jack is placed in it, which makes it possible to raise the house two or three centimeters and get the side bar located in front of the mortgage crown. On this site, a new timber is placed with prepared cuts.

When the bar is fully installed, take out the jack and connect the bars in the front of the building with studs or bolts.

For this purpose, through holes must be drilled. Their diameter should be at least twelve centimeters. They are required for mounting studs or bolts that hold the bars together.

In order for the connection to remain as strong as possible, the bars must be fastened with two bolts. The length of the cut should be at least thirty centimeters.

The old panel boarding house can be disassembled in parts, how to do it in more detail below.

In many summer cottages, there are still stands made of wooden boards and slabs. This design has doubled its relevance and necessity.

With the advent of new technologies, the construction of a modern country house is much faster and easier. Materials for construction are of higher quality and more reliable.

To build something new at a summer cottage, you need to demolish or dismantle the old house. Previously, the construction of a country house was not an easy and quite costly business, therefore buildings were erected from any improvised and available materials. One of the most common building materials for a country house was the so-called "shield".The prefabricated construction of the dacha looked like an integral structure, was erected in the shortest possible time and was relatively cheap at a price.

To free the site from such a building is the main task before starting the construction of a new house.

Work on dismantling or disassembling a panel board country house is carried out both with their own hands and with the help of assistants or specialized firms.

Before starting work, you should carefully prepare for the process, namely, turn off communications and take all things out of the room.

To parse, you need tools:

• saw or grinder;
• axe;
• hammer;
• pliers;
• screwdrivers;
• scrap;
• sledgehammer;
• protection for the head and hands.

If the country house has a bathroom, heating system, stove or fireplace, then these objects are dismantled first.

Pipes and radiators are cut off with a grinder, a stove or fireplace with a chimney is broken with a sledgehammer. Plumbing in the bathroom must be dismantled and removed from the work area.

Next, the roof, load-bearing beams, ceiling are disassembled, and only then proceed to disassemble the internal partitions and load-bearing walls. To dismantle the shield walls, use an electric tool, saws or a grinder.

In the last stage, the floors are opened.

All construction waste must be sorted into reusable and recycled ones.

It is best to disassemble a panel house with assistants and reliable tools.

If you do not have sufficient skills in the field of dismantling buildings, then it is best to seek help from specialists.

Frame or panel houses are very popular among summer residents. They are affordable, durable enough, and most importantly, they are erected very quickly, but usually they have to be insulated for winter living. The construction of a panel house is carried out on a ready-made foundation, columnar or pile, communications are supplied separately.

Some families who plan to live permanently in a panel house provide all thermal protection options in advance. But if at first you expected to use the house in the autumn-summer period, and then decided to spend time at the dacha in winter, you can easily insulate the house with your own hands after construction.

In order not to spend money on unnecessary heating of all rooms, the house should be insulated as evenly as possible, it is necessary to avoid cold bridges, moreover, if the frame house is incorrectly insulated, the service life of finishing materials, household appliances, and personal belongings may decrease. For comfortable winter living in a frame-panel house, the floor insulation system is clearly not enough. In addition to sealing joints, sealing window frames and door jambs, insulation of the basement, basement and insulation of the walls of the panel house will be required.

In order to insulate a frame-panel house with your own hands, first carry out preparatory work to seal all cracks and small defects that can pass cold. Gaps can be treated with polyurethane foam, joints are caulked using tow or jute. Carefully process the joints of the floor and walls in each room, seal up window openings, corners, and be sure to check the overlap of the house from the attic side and from the inside of the room.

Now you can start insulating the panel house from the outside. To do this, it is necessary to install profiles under the external finish and fix a layer of insulation on them.

Bulk and sheet materials such as ecowool, foam glass, extruded polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene, basalt, mineral wool, glass wool, foam plastic, penoizol can serve as insulation. All these materials have their advantages and disadvantages, but in general, with proper installation, they can protect the house from winter frosts. Ecowool and foam glass are inexpensive environmentally friendly materials with good fire resistance and antiseptic properties.Polyfoam protects well from the wind, is lightweight, almost does not rot, but requires special treatment with refractory substances, and is also susceptible to damage by animals. Glass wool is a hazardous material and must be handled with extreme care.

The most common and recommended by experts material for external insulation of a frame house is liquid foam, penoizol. It is relatively inexpensive, protected from rodents and harmful organisms, fills gaps and joints well, does not leave cold bridges. The warranty period of the insulation is about 60 years.

Liquid foam is suitable for insulating walls, floors and overlapping houses. The insulating layer must be at least 15 cm.

After you have fixed the sheet material to the frame or tightly poured loose insulation into the wall space, you need to equip the waterproofing layer with a regular polyester film. It is enough to fix the film with a construction stapler.

Do not neglect the vapor barrier, otherwise you risk losing up to 50% of the heat in winter.

For this, a special film is used, which does not allow moisture to enter the insulating material, which protects it from mold and mildew.

From above, the vapor barrier layer is covered with facade cladding. To save money, egg containers are used together with expensive films. Oddly enough, this method is quite effective and practical.

Insulation of a panel house from the inside is a conditional measure... Depending on the weather in winter, you can decide whether you need additional protection at home or not. But if you do decide to produce one, here are some tips.

They do not accumulate moisture, as a result of which their thermal insulation properties are not lost, they will not rot and deteriorate. Drywall will serve as such a material, a cheap option is to fasten the battens of the sheathing, which are sheathed with plywood, and foam granules or expanded clay are poured into the free space between them.

Insulation of the basement of a panel house and its finishing requires separate measures. This is the installation of a waterproofing layer and the installation of insulation, the arrangement of the drainage system and decorative finishing.

From practice, we know for sure that this technology of house insulation is very effective. After insulating a frame-panel house, heating it costs, on average, 70% cheaper. For example, if the thickness of the insulated house reaches 25 centimeters, then the thickness of the insulating layer must be made at least 15 centimeters.