Do-it-yourself tire repair equipment

Finding a tire shop is not a big problem, especially in cities. But sometimes there is a need for urgent wheel repair directly at the place of puncture or tire rupture. On the road, for example. On a business trip or trip. Far from any civilization, where there is simply nowhere to look for help. How it do?

In the old days, drivers caught off guard used tried and tested tools. They were as follows:

• the damaged wheel was lifted by a jack and removed from the car;
• the "spare wheel" was installed for a while;
• the edges of the dismantled wheel at the level of the joint with the disc were substituted under one of the wheels of the machine;
• several runs over the entire diameter of the tire were carried out;
• the inner edge of the tire on one side was completely torn off the rim (sometimes the collision was replaced by blows of a powerful sledgehammer);
• two assemblies were inserted into the weakened gap;
• by successive movements of the tools clockwise or counterclockwise, the rubber was picked out from the disc outward;
• then manipulations with assemblies were carried out on the other side of the wheel;
• the disc and tire were completely separated from each other.

Further, repairs were carried out, which usually consisted of replacing the camera or tire.

The big disadvantages of the method were its laboriousness and the almost inevitable cases of disk crushing at the edges.

For tubeless tires, such defects are fatal. It will definitely lose its tightness and will not hold air. To prevent this from happening, the damaged disc will have to be aligned or discarded. Cash costs for a new disk are inevitable in such a situation.

In a standard tire shop, the actual operations are the same. The only difference is that there they are more thought out, mechanized, more accurate in relation to the disk. As a result, after renovation, it exactly retains its previous geometry. But how achieve it most?

If you look on the Internet, you can see many options. homemade mechanized wheel disassembly devices. The overwhelming majority of them are, in principle, focused on professional equipment. Features mainly concern only some of the design solutions.

Handcrafted machines perform the same functions as standard mechanisms in tire shops. Moreover, they:

• more simple in design;
• have a manual drive for dismantling;
• reliable in operation;
• small-sized;
• easy to disassemble and easy to store (some models can fit in the trunk of a car);
• allow for prompt repairs outside the tire workshop, directly at the scene of the accident;
• in the overwhelming majority of all handicraft devices are designed for the wheels of cars.

Needless to say, dismantling a wheel for the owners of such machines is incomparably more economical than a similar service in a car service.

• an impromptu table with a vertical stand (top - threaded thread);
• a locking washer for fixing a disc with an internal thread and an axle sleeve;
• movable console with bracket;
• a metal rod with blades that bend the bead of the tire from the disc;
• rod retaining bolt.

Handicraft design (the main drawback is the lack of a system for pressing the rod, the blade has to be constantly knocked out with a sledgehammer).

Vertical console with bracket

Modern design.Console and arm with spatula were purchased from an auto parts store. The disadvantages include a short handle, which does not provide effective pressure on the tire.

Console and bracket with paddle

The accessory tool, console and bracket are shown here as factory. Any plane can be used as a table. The disadvantage is the hassle of the dismantling process, which involves the use of many tools at once. In addition, there is no table here - all operations have to be performed, figuratively speaking, “on the knee”.

There are many other options as well. It makes no sense to consider all inventions: they are arranged approximately the same.

Let's turn to one model. In it, all the above disadvantages are eliminated as much as possible. It is quite simple to make the entire machine yourself, without resorting to the cost of purchased spare parts.

Dimensional Drawings - the first thing that any practical activity begins with. In this case, we will consider a very convenient version of the machine that combines the entire range of tire fitting tasks.

This is a schematic diagram of the device and functioning of the unbeading mechanism:

In its natural state (after a fairly simple assembly), the machine will look like this:

It is made of 50x25 mm rectangular steel profiles. It needs to be cut into five pieces, and welded into one stable base. The length of the run of the parallel stops and the profile pipe connecting them can be adjusted to the dimensions of the trunk of the car.

It is made of a metal pipe with a diameter of no more than 50 mm (for the width of the frame components). Fixing to the base can be done in two ways:

By welding into one inseparable whole (non-separable version).

Fixing by means of a bolt. In this case, a sleeve corresponding to the inner diameter of the pipe must be welded to the frame, and a hole must be drilled in the pipe itself and a thread must be cut for the bolt. This option makes the structure collapsible, less overall and mobile (suitable for use on the road).

Washer-platform (flange) with holes for mounting the disc. It is intended for installation, external inspection of the damaged wheel and its final dismantling after dismantling.

With ribs 40-50 mm for attaching the hinge under the lever. It is welded to the rack tightly, the hinge itself can be fastened with screws through drilled holes with a thread (as in the diagram above). But the welding method of joining parts is more reliable and simpler.

Designed to remove the tire rim from the disc.

The diagram shows the hinge principle of connecting the lever with the riser... He gives the ability to effectively press on the tire and tear its edge off the disc.

The dimensions shown in the drawing are indicative only. The main thing is that the overall proportion is observed.

Short tubular bracket with hole for extension pipe. Removable extension cord. It is inserted into the device before starting work and provides more pressing power.

Support for the tire rim (paw). It is made from the same 50x25 mm rectangular profile as the frame. One end of the stop is attached to the bracket through a loop, the other is flattened and ground with emery to a round shape. This avoids damage to the rubber when pressed with the paw.

When choosing a material for the machine, one should take into account the heavy loads on all structural elements. Soft steel grades (such as St. 45) are unsuitable here.

To avoid metal corrosion, all machine components must be painted over with a stable oil emulsion.

Manual the machine works as follows. Sequence of operations:

Visual inspection. The wheel is mounted on a washer pad and checked for surface damage to the tire and disc.

- the wheel is placed on the support frame under the lever;

- an extension cord is inserted into the lever;

- the paw is directed to the joint between the tire and the disc;

- the lever is pressed.

The operation is carried out sequentially along the entire diameter of the rim. As a result, the entire outer part of the tire is separated from the disc.

Then the same steps are repeated on the back of the wheel.

Complete dismantling is carried out already at the flange of the vertical column using a simple mount. It is better if it is long enough to easily remove the tire from the rim.

What is important to consider at this stage:

The geometry of the rim must not be disturbed in any place. This is especially important for tubeless tires. Small dents on stamped discs can be adjusted with a hammer. In case of major defects, the disc must be replaced. Due to the brittleness of the metal, damaged alloy wheels do not straighten and always change.

It reduces the friction between rubber and metal during assembly. A thin layer of lithol or a soap solution is applied to the inner edge of the tire. This does not in any way affect the tightness and quality of the wheel.

Any gap can cause air leakage, especially from tubeless rubber. This mounting defect can be easily eliminated by tapping the tire rib with a heavy hammer while inflating the wheel on the machine. As a last resort, you can use special sealing tourniquets and gels (they are sold in all car stores).

From all of the above, a simple conclusion suggests itself: a tire changer is easy to make yourself. Moreover, in any version: both stationary and mobile. One day off - no more, it will be needed for the purchase of material and the manufacture of equipment. This requires only skillful hands and desire.

Time and money will become a reward for your labor feat. So you will save them for sure!

Automotive service is a responsible event, requiring high-quality equipment and trained personnel undergoing retraining and additional training in order to keep pace with the times, applying new methods of diagnosing and troubleshooting all systems of a vehicle received for maintenance. One of the key elements of the technical equipment is the equipment for tire fitting.

Tire fitting equipment for the provision of high-quality service for the replacement, repair of car tires must function in good working order. The most common reason for the failure of a tire changer machine is a lack of proper maintenance and respect.

It is necessary to monitor the oil level in the air preparation unit, while draining the condensate. Fill in only special oil, which, due to its volatility, provides lubrication of the rubbing elements of the stand throughout the entire volume. Following these simple rules for the maintenance of equipment will avoid calling a professional repairman.

Consider the most common malfunctions of tire repair machines.

• Failure of the squeezing cylinder. Most often it occurs due to corrosion, which is caused by a lack of lubrication, and the ingress of moisture along with air. The cylinder changes both as a whole and element by element. In the event that the end part of the cylinder is made of silumin alloy, there are frequent cases of its destruction at the points of attachment to the machine.

• Breakage of the under-table distributor. In some cases, destruction occurs due to increased wear of the gearbox, in others - due to natural wear of the rubbing elements.

• Gearbox malfunction is one of the biggest, but not the most common problems of a tire changer due to the high cost of the part. Caused by lack of lubrication, off-design loads, or long service life.

• Engine malfunction. Motors powered by 220V are more susceptible to this problem. This is caused by the presence of additional elements - capacitors, reduced mains voltage, increased load in the gearbox, failure of the reversing switch.

• Breakage of the under-table cylinders leads to a weak clamping of the wheel in the cams, which during work can damage the disc. As a rule, this is due to the wear of the pistons of the cylinders and the passage of air pressure.

• Malfunction of the pedal assembly is most often expressed in mechanical damage to the pedals, loss of tightness of the five-way valves. Five-way valves can be repaired (we have repair kits on sale), but it must be borne in mind that this measure is temporary, and after replacing some valve elements, it will not last the same period as a new one. It is advisable to have a five-way valve repair kit in a tire repair shop for prompt repair, so as not to lose customers due to equipment downtime.

In addition to the faults listed above, mounting heads, cams, cam plates, fittings, motor and gear pulleys, reversing switches (phase switches) and other items are frequently damaged. Almost all spare parts for the most popular tire changers are available in our store, others are available to order. We remind you that we have our own metalworking workshop, which allows us to manufacture many parts in the shortest possible time. We also offer to carry out not only field, but also overhaul of equipment in our areas. Work carried out in stationary conditions is preferable in case of revealing serious damage in the operation of the machine.

If you have a rare model of a tire changer and there are practically no spare parts for it, it doesn’t matter either. We adapt standard parts for your booth. It is possible to install reversing phase switches, electric motors, squeeze and under-table cylinders, mounting heads and some other spare parts.

A punctured wheel in the presence of a spare tire that has not been repaired in time contributes to the desire to do tire fitting with your own hands. But in order for this to be possible, it is necessary to have the appropriate tools, and most importantly, skills. To do tire fitting on the road with your own hands, you need to have 2 mounting blades, as well as a device for tearing off the stuck tire from the disk (many use a small piece of steel angle with a sledgehammer for this). But it can be done much more conveniently with a jack and a towing cable.

• Remove the wheel, clean it from dirt.
• Let the air out of the wheel, put the nipple up.
• Pass the tow rope through the hole in the disc.
• Place the jack on the sidewall of the tire as close to the rim as possible. If the rubber is with the camera, do not put the jack in front of the fitting, otherwise there is a risk of tearing it off the camera.
• Place the cable on the bracket or platform for lifting the jack, fix the ends of the cable together.
• Rotate the jack drive handle so that it pulls the cable up, and the base, resting on the sidewall of the tire, moves the landing ring down.
• Once this side of the tire has separated from the rim, proceed to the next step.
• If you only need to repair or change the tube, then using two assemblies in turn, lift the sidewall of the tire near the fitting to the edge of the rim.
• Push the fitting inward and then remove the tube from the underside of the tire.
• Remove the nipple from the serviceable chamber, squeeze the air out of it.
• To install a working tube, bend the sidewall of the tire and insert the fitting from the inside into the hole provided for it, and then place the tube under the tire.
• In order not to punch the tube with the tire bar when installing the tire, slightly inflate it without inserting the nipple.
• After flanging, insert the nipple into the union. Inflate and replace the wheel.

The above method of repairing on the way is suitable only as a last resort. For example, if there is no tire shop nearby.However, if you decide to always do tire fitting with your own hands, then you better have a full-fledged tire fitting kit in your garage, which you can do yourself if you wish. Not only will it help you avoid queues at the tire shop in the spring and autumn, it will also save you money.

In our case, the kit consists of two devices: the tire changer itself and the bead breaking device, combined into one.

The bottom of the machine frame H-shaped 90 × 60 cm is made of a steel pipe of rectangular cross-section. A two-inch round pipe with a height of about one and a half meters is welded to the lintel 30 cm from the edge at a right angle, the welding place is reinforced with kerchiefs in the form of right-angled triangles 5 mm thick. The old hub is put on the tube for fastening the wheel and welded to it. The height of the hub is adjusted to the height of the person so that the wheel lying on it is approximately waist-high. The pipe must rise at least 30 cm above the cylinder and not interfere with work. A little below the hub, weld the bracket for fastening the bead breaker, which can be made from a piece of steel sheet 4–5 mm thick by drilling a hole in it for a bolt.

The device for the beating device is clearly visible in the photo. The pipe for the manufacture of this unit should be taken wider so that a long lever can be inserted into it.

The lever for removing and installing tires is made of a steel pipe about one and a half meters long, and the tips for it are made of a steel bar with a diameter of 20 mm. The length of the lever may be different, it all depends on the strength of the hands and the size of the free space in the garage. The ends of the lever are best made on a lathe, but you can also cut it out with a grinder with a grinding wheel, and then grind it with a petal. See the photo for tip sizes.

1. Clean the wheel from dirt. Remove the nipple from it.
2. Place a rubber mat on the base under the rebound lever to prevent scratching the disc, then place the wheel on top of it.
3. Raise the bump stop foot and place it on the tire sidewall closer to the rim.
4. Lubricate the tire seat ring with soapy water.
5. Insert the lever into the baffle tube.
6. Pressing the lever down, hit the bead of the tire around the entire perimeter of the wheel. Do the same on the other side.
7. Slide the wheel onto the tube and bolt it to the machine hub.
8. Raise the bead of the tire with the mounting bar and insert the straight tip of the lever under it.
9. Lubricate the tip, landing bead and rim edge with soapy water.
10. Resting the lever against the tube above the wheel, pull it towards you, while the tire bead will be removed from the disc.
11. Remove the tube from the tire.
12. Lift the other side with the assembly, put the lever under it and, acting in the same way as described above, remove the tire from the disc.

1. Lubricate the tire bead, rim lip, and arm mounting tip with soapy water.
2. Slide a piece of the landing bead onto the disc.
3. Insert the arm mounting tip between the fitted section of the landing bead and the disc. It is necessary that the ball of the tip rests against the disc, and the landing bead is approximately in the middle of the tip.
4. Resting the lever on the pipe above the wheel, pull it towards you. In this case, the bead of the tire will be put on the middle of the mounting tip on the disc.
5. After the first bead of the tire is put on the disc, lubricate the upper landing bead with soapy water and do the same with it as with the lower one.
6. When the top bead is on the rim, you can inflate the wheel.

The smaller the angle at which the flanging tip is welded to the arm, the easier the rubber will fit onto the disc. But don't overdo it.

If this angle is too small, the lever will touch the disc and scratch it during flanging, so look for the optimum.

The machine turned out to be very light, so for comfortable work it must be fixed to the floor. If the floor in your garage is wooden, then attach the base to it with self-tapping screws.If the floor is concrete, then make several holes in it, install the anchor bolts in them by 8, and fill them with cement mortar.

To make it easier to work, and there was no harm to the disks and rubber, be sure to lubricate the ends of the lever, the wheel rim, and the bead of the tire with a thick soapy solution. To do this, do not work with a dirty wheel, always start by cleaning it.

To repair wheels that differ from yours in the number of mounting holes and the distance between them, make adapters with studs. They should be made of metal about a centimeter thick.