Do-it-yourself tire fitting equipment repair

In detail: do-it-yourself tire changer repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Finding a tire shop is not a big problem, especially in cities. But sometimes there is a need for urgent wheel repair directly at the site of a puncture or tire rupture. On the road, for example. On a business trip or trip. Far from any civilization, where there is simply nowhere to look for help. How it do?

In the old days, drivers, taken by surprise, used tried and tested means. They were as follows:

the damaged wheel was lifted with a jack and removed from the car;
a “reserve” was installed for a while;
the edges of the dismantled wheel at the level of the junction with the disk were substituted under one of the wheels of the machine;
several runs were made along the entire diameter of the tire;
the inner edge of the tire on one side completely fell off the rim (sometimes the collision was replaced by blows from a powerful sledgehammer);
two mounts were inserted into the weakened gap;
by successive movements of the tools clockwise or counterclockwise, the rubber was pulled out of the disk;
then manipulations with the mounts were made from the other side of the wheel;
disc and tire are completely separated from each other.

Further repairs were carried out, which usually consisted in replacing the chamber or tire.

The big drawbacks of the method were its laboriousness and almost inevitable cases of disc crumpling at the edges.

For tubeless tires, such defects are fatal. It will definitely lose its tightness, and will not hold air. To prevent this from happening, the damaged disk will have to be straightened or thrown away. Cash costs for a new disk in such a situation are inevitable.

Video (click to play).

In a standard tire fitting, the actual same operations are carried out. The only difference is that there they are more thought out, mechanized, more accurate in relation to the disk. As a result, after repair, it exactly retains its previous geometry. But how achieve it himself?

If you look on the Internet, you can see many options. homemade mechanized devices for disassembly of the wheel. The vast majority of them, in principle, are oriented in terms of their capabilities to professional equipment. Features concern mainly only some design solutions.

Homemade machines perform the same functions as standard mechanisms in tire shops. In doing so, they:

simpler in design;
have a manual drive for dismantling;
reliable in operation;
small-sized;
easy to disassemble and easy to store (some models can fit in the trunk of a car);
allow you to carry out prompt repairs outside the tire shop, directly at the scene of the accident;
the vast majority of all handicraft devices are designed for the wheels of cars.

Needless to say, wheel dismantling for the owners of such machines is incomparably more economical than a similar service in a car service.

an impromptu table with a vertical stand (top - threaded thread);
locking washer for fixing a disk with an internal thread and an axle sleeve;
movable console with bracket;
a metal rod with blades that bend the tire bead away from the disk;
rod fixing bolt.

Handicraft design (the main drawback is the lack of a system for pressing the rod, the blade has to be constantly knocked out with a sledgehammer).

Vertical console with bracket

Modern design.Console and paddle bracket purchased from an auto parts store. The disadvantages include a short handle that does not provide effective pressure on the tire.

Console and bracket with paddle

Auxiliary tool, console and bracket are presented here in the factory. Any plane can be used as a table. The disadvantage is the troublesome dismantling process, which involves the use of many tools at once. In addition, there is no table here - all operations have to be done, figuratively speaking, “on the knee”.

There are many other options as well. There is no point in considering all inventions: they are arranged in approximately the same way.

Let's look at one model. It eliminates all the above drawbacks as much as possible. It is quite simple to make the whole machine yourself, without resorting to the cost of purchased spare parts.

Dimensional drawings - the first thing with which any practical activity begins. In this case, consider a very convenient version of the machine, which combines the entire range of tire fitting tasks.

This is a schematic diagram of the device and the functioning of the disassembly mechanism:

In its natural form (after a fairly simple assembly), the machine will look like this:

It is made of a rectangular steel profile measuring 50x25 mm. It must be cut into five pieces, and welded into one stable base. The take-off length of the parallel stops and the profile pipe connecting them can be adjusted to the dimensions of the car trunk.

It is made of a metal pipe with a diameter of not more than 50 mm (according to the width of the frame components). Fastening to the base can be done in two ways:

Welding into one inseparable whole (non-separable option).

Fixing with a bolt. In this case, a bushing corresponding to the inner diameter of the pipe must be welded to the frame, and a hole must be drilled in the pipe itself and threaded for the bolt. This option makes the design collapsible, less overall and mobile (suitable for use on the road).

Washer-platform (flange) with holes for fastening the disk. It is intended for installation, external inspection of a damaged wheel and its final dismantling after disassembly.

With ribs 40-50 mm for attaching a loop under the lever. It is welded to the rack tightly, the loop itself can be fastened with screws through drilled threaded holes (as in the diagram above). But the welding method of connecting parts is more reliable and simple.

Designed to remove the tire rim from the disk.

The diagram shows the loop principle of connecting the lever with the riser. He gives the ability to carry out effective pressure on the tire and tear its edge off the disk.

The dimensions shown on the drawing are indicative. The main thing is that the general proportion is observed.

Short tubular bracket with hole for extension pipe. Removable extension. It is inserted into the device before starting work and provides more pressing power.

Emphasis for the tire rim (paw). It is made from the same rectangular profile 50x25 mm as the frame. One end of the stop is attached to the bracket through a loop, the other end is flattened and turned with emery to a rounded shape. This avoids damage to the rubber when pressed with a paw.

When choosing a material for a machine, heavy loads on all structural elements should be taken into account. Soft steel grades (such as St. 45) are unsuitable here.

To avoid metal corrosion, all machine components must be painted over with a stable oil emulsion.

Manual the machine works as follows. Sequence of operations:

Visual inspection. The wheel is mounted on a washer pad and checked for surface damage to the tire and disc.

- the wheel is placed on the support frame under the lever;

- an extension cord is inserted into the lever;

- the paw is directed to the junction of the tire with the disk;

- the lever is pressed.

The operation is sequentially carried out over the entire diameter of the rim. As a result, the entire outer part of the tire is separated from the disk.

Then the same steps are repeated on the back of the wheel.

Complete dismantling is already done on the flange of the upright using a simple mounting. It is better if it has a length sufficient for easy removal of the tire from the disk.

What is important to consider at this stage:

The geometry of the rim must not be disturbed in any place. This is especially important for tubeless tyres. Small dents on stamped discs can be smoothed out with a hammer. In case of major defects, the disc must be replaced. Damaged alloy wheels due to the fragility of the metal do not straighten and always change.

It reduces the friction of rubber on metal during installation. A thin layer of lithol or a soapy solution is applied to the inner edge of the tire. This does not affect the tightness and quality of the wheel.

Any gap can cause air leakage, especially from tubeless rubber. This mounting defect is easily eliminated by tapping the tire rib with a heavy hammer when inflating the wheel on the machine. In extreme cases, you can use special sealing harnesses and gels (they are sold in all automotive stores).

From the foregoing, a simple conclusion suggests itself: a tire changer is easy to make yourself. Moreover, in any version: both stationary and mobile. One day off - no more, will be needed for the purchase of material and the manufacture of equipment. All that is needed is skillful hands and desire.

The reward for your labor feat will be time and money. So you save them for sure!

Car service is a responsible event that requires high-quality equipment and trained personnel undergoing retraining and additional training in order to keep up with the times, applying new methods for diagnosing and troubleshooting all vehicle systems received for maintenance. One of the key elements of technical equipment is equipment for tire fitting works.

Tire fitting equipment for the provision of high-quality services for the replacement, repair of car tires must function in good working order. The most common reason for the failure of the tire changer machine is the lack of proper maintenance and respect.

It is necessary to monitor the oil level in the air preparation unit while draining the condensate. Pour in only special oil, which, due to its volatility, provides lubrication of the rubbing elements of the stand throughout the entire volume. Following these simple maintenance rules will help you avoid calling a professional repairman.

Consider the most common malfunctions of tire repair machines.

• Failure of the squeezing cylinder. Most often occurs due to corrosion, which is caused by a lack of lubrication, and the ingress of moisture along with air. The cylinder changes both as a whole and element by element. In the event that the end part of the cylinder is made of silumin alloy, it is not uncommon for it to be destroyed at the points of attachment to the machine.

• Breakage of the underbench distributor. In some cases, destruction occurs due to increased wear of the gearbox, in others - due to the natural wear of rubbing elements.

• Gearbox failure is one of the biggest, but not the most common tire changer problems due to the high cost of the part. Caused by lack of lubrication, off-design loads, or long service life.

• Engine failure. Motors powered by 220V are more prone to this problem. This is caused by the presence of additional elements - capacitors, low mains voltage, increased load in the gearbox, malfunction of the reversing switch.

• Breakage of the underbench cylinders leads to a weak clamping of the wheel in the cams, which can damage the wheel during work. As a rule, this is due to wear of the pistons of the cylinders and the passage of air pressure.

• Malfunction of the pedal assembly is most often expressed in mechanical damage to the pedals, loss of tightness of the five-way valves. Five-way valves can be repaired (we have repair kits for sale), but keep in mind that this measure is temporary, and after replacing some elements of the valve, it will not last the same period as a new one. It is advisable to have a five-way valve repair kit in a tire repair shop for prompt repairs so as not to lose customers due to equipment downtime.

In addition to the malfunctions listed above, mounting heads, cams, cam plates, fittings, motor and gearbox pulleys, reversing switches (phase switches) and other elements are often damaged. Almost all spare parts for the most popular tire changers are available in our store, others are available on order. We remind you that we have our own metalworking workshop, which allows us to produce many parts in the shortest possible time. We also offer to carry out not only field, but also major repairs of equipment on our premises. Work carried out in stationary conditions is preferable in case of detection of serious damage in the operation of the machine.

If you have a rare model of a tire changer and there are practically no spare parts for it, it doesn’t matter either. We adapt serial parts for your stand. It is possible to install phase reversing switches, electric motors, squeezing and underbench cylinders, mounting heads and some other spare parts.

A punctured wheel in the presence of a spare tire that has not been repaired in time contributes to the desire to do tire fitting with your own hands. But in order to be able to do this, it is necessary to have the appropriate tools, and most importantly, skills. To do tire fitting on the road with your own hands, you need to have 2 mounting blades, as well as a device for tearing off a stuck tire from a disk (many people use a small piece of steel corner with a sledgehammer for this). But it can be done much more conveniently with the help of a jack and a tow rope.

Remove the wheel, clean it of dirt.
Release the air from the wheel, put the nipple up.
Pass the tow rope through the hole in the disc.
Place the jack on the sidewall of the tire as close to the rim as possible. If the rubber is with a chamber, do not put a jack in front of the fitting, otherwise there is a risk of tearing it away from the chamber.
Throw the cable on the bracket or platform for lifting the jack, fix the ends of the cable between each other.
Rotate the jack drive handle so that it pulls the cable up, and the base, resting against the sidewall of the tire, shifts the landing ring down.
Once this side of the tire is separated from the rim, move on to the next step.
If you only need to repair or change the inner tube, then using two installers in turn, lift the sidewall of the tire near the fitting to the edge of the rim.
Push the fitting inward, then remove the chamber from under the tire.
Remove the nipple from the working chamber, squeeze the air out of it.
To install a working tube, bend the sidewall of the tire and insert the fitting from the inside into the hole intended for it, then place the tube under the tire.
In order not to pierce the chamber with a pry bar when installing the tire, inflate it slightly without inserting a nipple.
After flanging, put the nipple in the fitting. Inflate and install the wheel in place.

The method of repair on the road described above is suitable only as a last resort. For example, if there is no tire shop nearby.However, if you decide to always do your own tire fitting, then you better have a full-fledged tire fitting kit in the garage, which you can do yourself if you wish. Not only will it help you avoid queues at the tire shop in spring and autumn, it will also save you money.

In our case, the kit consists of two devices: the actual tire changer and the bead breaking device, combined into one.

The bottom of the machine frame H-shaped 90 × 60 cm is made of a steel pipe of rectangular section. A two-inch round pipe about one and a half meters high is welded to the jumper 30 cm from the edge at a right angle, the welding point is reinforced with scarves in the form of rectangular triangles 5 mm thick. An old hub is put on the pipe for attaching the wheel and welded to it. The installation height of the hub is selected according to the height of the person so that the wheel lying on it is approximately waist-high. The pipe should rise above the cylinder by at least 30 cm and not interfere with work. A little below the hub, weld a bracket for fastening the bead breaking device, which can be made from a fragment of a steel sheet 4–5 mm thick by drilling a hole for the bolt in it.

The device for beating is clearly visible in the photo. The pipe for the manufacture of this assembly should be taken wider so that a long lever is inserted into it.

The lever for removing and installing tires is made of a steel pipe about one and a half meters long, and the tips for it are made of a steel bar with a diameter of 20 mm. The length of the lever may be different, it all depends on the strength of the hands and the size of the free space in the garage. It is better to make the tips of the lever on a lathe, but you can also cut it out with a grinder with a cleaning wheel, and then grind it with a petal. See photos for tip sizes.

Clean the wheel of dirt. Remove the nipple from it.
Place a rubber mat on the base under the rebound lever so as not to scratch the disc, then place the wheel on it.
Raise the bumper tab and place it on the sidewall of the tire closer to the rim.
Lubricate the tire seat ring with soapy water.
Insert the lever into the bumper pipe.
While pressing the lever down, beat off the bead of the tire around the entire perimeter of the wheel. Do the same on the other side.
Put the wheel on the pipe and screw it to the machine hub with bolts.
Raise the seat bead of the tire with a pry bar and insert the straight tip of the lever under it.
Lubricate the tip, seat bead and rim edge with soapy water.
Resting the lever against the pipe above the wheel, pull it towards you, while the tire bead will be removed from the disk.
Remove the camera from the tire.
Raise the other side with a crowbar, put a lever under it and, proceeding in the same way as described above, remove the tire from the disk.

Lubricate the tire bead, rim edge, and arm mounting lug with soapy water.
Slide part of the landing board onto the disc.
Insert the mounting lug of the lever between the fitted section of the landing board and the disc. It is necessary that the ball of the tip rests on the disk, and the landing board is approximately in the middle of the tip.
Resting the lever against the pipe above the wheel, pull it towards you. In this case, the tire bead will be put on by the middle of the mounting tip on the disk.
After the first bead of the tire is put on the disc, grease the upper landing bead with soapy water and do the same with it as with the lower one.
When the top bead of the tire is put on the disc, you can inflate the wheel.

The smaller the angle at which the tip for flanging is welded to the lever, the easier it is to put the rubber on the disc. But don't overdo it.

If this angle is too small, then the lever will touch the disk during the beading and scratch it, so look for the optimum.

The machine turned out to be very light, so for comfortable work it must be attached to the floor.If the floor in your garage is wooden, then attach the base to it with self-tapping screws. If the floor is concrete, then make several holes in it, install anchor bolts in them by 8, and fill them with cement mortar.

To make it easier to work, and there was no harm to the disks and rubber, be sure to lubricate the lever tips, the rim, and the tire seat with a thick soapy solution. To do this, do not work with a dirty wheel, always start by cleaning it.

To repair wheels that differ from yours in the number of mounting holes and the distance between them, make adapters with studs. They should be made of metal with a thickness of about a centimeter.

Specialized forum on car service and tire fitting equipment

Tavros 24.06.2013, 15:55

The other day they brought a “shell-shocked” Trommelberg machine to the service. According to the owner of the device, on the table of a passenger tire fitting, they “inflated” the wheel from the tractor (rear or front - it was not possible to find out

). As a result, somehow, the chamber burst, the wheel flew up to the ceiling, destroyed it, after which it landed safely back on the tire shop, deforming it strongly.

Added after 5 minutes 9 seconds:
After complete disassembly, it became clear that the gear cover alone was not enough - the driven gear was also destroyed. Circumstances subtly hinted at a complete replacement of the gearbox, which in fact equated to 60% of the cost of a new machine.

Added after 5 minutes 42 seconds:
Given that the machine is not so “ancient” (year of manufacture - 2010), and the state is not so neglected (not counting the deformation of the gearbox), it was decided to “revive” tire fitting at the component level, which, in turn, was a risky undertaking.

Added after 37 minutes 13 seconds:
In addition, while the spare parts were “driving”, the following work was done:
one). restoration of the profile of the drive pulley (new - 300 UAH, groove - 100);
2). replacement of a “tired” V-belt;
3). the “oiler” was finally filled with the long-awaited oil, and not the condensate that had settled there lately;
4). several cuffs in the cylinders of the machine were replaced;
5). given that the owners changed the engine not to the original one, having installed it incorrectly on the platform, this module also had to be disassembled (new grooves, milling work.);
6). replacement of driven gear bearings.

For a complete set of a modern service station, a professional tire changer is needed. When choosing, you need to pay attention to the main parameters of the equipment: performance, design features and technical characteristics. But before that, you should familiarize yourself with the types of these machines.

A multifunctional tire changer of the automatic type is necessary for changing wheel tires, carrying out their repair or maintenance. This is mandatory when the outside temperature drops to +7°C or when a defect occurs on the surface of the tire.

The tire changer, regardless of design, has a general principle of operation. The wheel is fixed on the desktop in a horizontal or vertical position. Then, with the help of a special blade, the tire beads are brought out of the rim. At the same time, rotation around the axis is performed. Due to this, the tire is dismantled. In the same way, installation is done after repairs or as a replacement for a summer model for a winter one.

Depending on the specifics of the design, the tire changer can be of the following types:

semi-automatic. The dismantling of the tire occurs manually by pressing the foot lever by the worker. The wheel is turned by an electric motor. Despite the relatively low productivity, such machines have an acceptable cost and simplicity of design, which affects the maintainability;
tire changer machine design automatic. In addition to the wheel turning unit, a pneumatic cylinder is installed in it, which exerts pressure on the dismantling foot. This allows you to perform all work in automatic mode. First you need to configure the machine parameters - the height of the disk and its diameter. It is also important to set the degree of clamping of the mounting foot, which is necessary for the design of the machine;

The choice of a particular model depends on many parameters. But the main one is the required speed with which the repair will be carried out. With a heavy load of service stations, it is recommended to choose automatic models. If there are financial constraints, you can purchase a semi-automatic model.

It is possible to make a tire changer with your own hands. But at the same time, it will be problematic to equip a turning unit, and even more so a hydraulic drive. Such installations are completely mechanical, which does not allow their use in service stations.

After determining the functionality that the tire changer should have and its type, automatic or semi-automatic, you can proceed to the analysis of the design. This knowledge will be required for high-quality maintenance of equipment, as well as for small self-repairs.

The body of the machine is usually made of steel plates. An electric motor is installed inside the box-shaped structure, which is connected to the upper platform rotation shaft using a belt drive. This is necessary to reduce the rotational speed. A rack with a mounting blade is installed at the rear of the structure. Since the tire changer must not only dismantle, but also install the tire, there is a fitting for the tire inflation pump in the area of the pressure paddle. Additionally, you can use the blade of the bead break-off device.

You should also take into account the specifics of the design that a tire changer may have:

the type of vehicles being serviced - trucks or cars. This parameter defines the maximum dimensions of the wheel;
balancing function. Thanks to this, a complete repair can be carried out. Despite the relatively high cost, such models reduce the requirements for free space in the service station. Most often, it is in a design such as an automatic machine;

The average cost of a professional model is about 180 thousand rubles. The price directly depends on the design features and equipment that a particular tire changer of the automatic model has. It is worth remembering that with the help of such equipment it is possible to carry out prompt, and most importantly, high-quality repairs and maintenance.

When choosing, it is recommended to pay attention to the type of stop of the turntable. The best option is a four-cam design with a uniform distribution of stop pressure on the inner rim of the wheel.

Having acquired the optimally suitable model of the tire changer, you should perform its correct assembly and installation. In particular, this applies to structures such as automatic machines, since the further performance of the equipment depends on the correct connection of the elements.

At the first stage, the mounting site is prepared. At the same time, the dimensions of the assembled structure, as well as its mass, are taken into account. Most models have special feet to adjust the installation position. They are required for the correct desktop level.

For normal operation of the tire changer automatic or semi-automatic model, you must adhere to the following rules:

take into account the configuration features of rims from different manufacturers. European models have a pronounced curvature that is absent in the valve area. Therefore, dismantling should begin from this area;
tire jumping off the rim should be avoided. This can lead to an increase in the complexity of installation / dismantling.To prevent this situation, the level of lubrication of the rim should be adjusted, as well as the degree of pressure of the working blade should be controlled;
machine repair and maintenance. For minor problems, you can try to fix them yourself. But this is carried out only in the case of explicit recommendations from the manufacturer. If you do not follow this rule, you can lose the warranty on the machine. Therefore, equipment repairs should only be carried out by specialists.

To perform mounting / dismounting of the tire, use only those methods that are described in the operating instructions.

As an example, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the demonstration of the automatic model:

In our climate, the main load on tire fitting equipment falls on spring and autumn. For this reason, the expediency of preliminary maintenance takes place. The turnover of the tire shop per season is on average 15 thousand rubles per working day. It is not difficult to calculate that one hour of downtime averages 1,250 rubles. Proper maintenance will reduce the risk of breakdowns and financial losses at the time of peak use, as we will take action to identify and eliminate possible malfunctions and upcoming breakdowns.

Maintenance checklist:

Removal of water from the filter-lubricator;
Checking the presence and level of oil in the lubricator;
Checking the efficiency of the lubricator;
If the machine is equipped with a receiver of the “explosive” pumping system, removal of water condensate from the receiver;
Cleaning the vertical hex stem with liquid, non-flammable detergent. Lubricant;
Wiping the turntable with liquid non-flammable detergent, drying and oiling the sliding surface of the clamping jaws;
Cleaning the teeth of the clamps with a wire brush, checking the condition of the plastic protective pads and replacing them in a timely manner if necessary;
Washing all plastic parts with cold water and soap or a mild chemical detergent;
Lubrication of air cylinder rods;
Checking the tension of the drive belt;
Checking the spatial position of the mounting head relative to the disk 14.15 inches and tightening the countersunk screws of its fastening. If necessary, adjust the arc gap uniformity;
Checking the condition of internal pneumatic lines and pedal actuators;
Removal (if necessary) of oil droplets coming out of the breathers along with the exhaust air. Adjustment of lubricators in case of excessive oil release;
Check the inside of the housing for moisture.

Price list for work with a tire changer

Those who are less busy with their professional activities, who have free time, try to make various devices and devices for doing repairs with their own hands. These are, for example, pullers, a tire changer, a flyover or even do-it-yourself karting. In order to make a homemade tire changer, you will need a desire, a diagram and drawings, and materials, and tools.

With your own hands, you can make a home-made tire changer even on the road. This will require not so many tools:

mounting blades (2 pieces);
steel corner and percussion tool (sledgehammer, semi-sledgehammer);
jack;
tow rope.

Loosen wheel bolts.
Install on a jack.
Remove the wheel and clean it of dirt.
Expel the air from the wheel and put it with the nipple up.
Through the central hole in the disk, pass the cable for the tug through it.
Attach the base of the jack to the rubber (as close as possible to the rim of the disc). If the wheel is chambered, then you can not put the jack in front of the nipple (fitting).
Put the cable on the part of the jack, which is designed to be lifted from a special rigid-ribbed place on the bottom of the car.
Tie the ends of the rope.
Start stretching the cable.To do this, rotate the handle of the mechanical jack. At the same time, the base of the jack should push through the rubber, lowering the tire seat down.
As soon as the tire has moved away from the disc, remove the cable and proceed to replace the camera.
With two mounts, throw one side of the rubber over the rim of the disc.
Gently push the fitting (nipple) in and pull out the camera.
Next, unscrew the nipple from the fitting and expel the remaining air.
We begin the installation of a new camera by inserting a fitting into the hole. We put the camera in the tire without kinks and kinks.
To increase safety, that is, in order not to damage a new or repaired chamber, it must be slightly pumped up without screwing in the nipple.
We make a flanging of the tire with two riggers.
We screw the nipple into the fitting and pump up the wheel.
Installing the wheel.

With your own hands, you can make many different devices for repair work and for convenience, for example, a do-it-yourself armrest can be made of plywood or metal, reclining or fixed.

Every driver should have such skills for repairing wheels on the road. But, it would be better to have your own machine for dismantling and mounting tires in the garage. A new factory machine is expensive, but you can make a homemade one yourself. Having a machine, you don’t have to go to a tire fitting shop every six months to overboard tires.

A homemade tire changer kit consists of 2 parts: